One woman wandering; or, Europe on limited means

Chapter I

Not because I was especially fitted either bynature , education or habit, to paddle my own canoe, not because I had no desire for, or any objection to, a compagnon du voyage, did I suddenly determine last year to venture forth alone into the rushing tide of foreign travel that has of late periods set so strongly toward the Old World. But like many another woman I had been bereft of all that life and love hold dear, and at a mature age was left stranded solitary, with a slender though assured provision for that future which now stretched blankly before me. What could so completely occupy my attention and employ my energies as a trip abroad?

But was this among the possibilities? No ties had I to bind me here or elsewhere ; no household to maintain in my absence ; no reason why the modest sum necessary for my personal expenses should not be expended abroad instead of in my native land. Would this be sufficient? I began to investigate.

My first step was to write to various Tourist Agencies, whose name is legion, requesting such information as each could furnish concerning routes, rates, outfits, and the like. I may say in passing that I ever received most courteous attention to my inquiries. I thus accumulated a mass of material much of which was valuable, and my vague design began to take form and substance before me. My little fund would take me across, provide for my return in case of emergency, and keep me in unpretending comfort until I could receive supplies from home. But — I must go alone ; I could pay no companion or guide. True, there were several excursions advertised to which my available cash would admit me as a member, but these were of but two or three months' duration and seemed to consist of one grand scramble from beginning to end, in making trains and taking wildly hurried glimpses of a few noted scenes and masterpieces. So I came to the conclusion that one could see and learn most by traveling independently, thus being hampered by no contracts or limits as to time and place. Could I do this all by myself, in a foreign land amid a foreign tongue, I who had lived all my life in the seclusion and protection of the home-circle? But the dear home-circle was forever vanished. Life was ended along that line. Wherever I might be I was alone and must live inexpensively, I was already fairly familiar with my own land. In Europe even commonplace environments would be new and interesting to me. I would go.

I did go and for many months wandered alone but safely through storied scenes and classic shades of varied beauty and interest, returning at last with a host of delightful recollections to beguile many an otherwise weary day, and with the resolve to promulgate as far as possible among the "lone sisters' "in my own country, such practical knowledge of ways and means as I acquired myself in my journeyings, so that any one of them, finding through untoward events that the "days are dark and dreary," might feel it possible to take ter courage in her hands and go and do likewise. And so I begin my record.

In almost any town of a few thousand inhabitants one may purchase a through ticket of the principal Steamship Companies, to almost any point abroad, I, however, took my ticket from one of the Tourist Agencies in order tliat I might feel at liberty to call upon the local office wherever I might be, for protection or advice, have the benefit of its banking facilities, bureaus of information and the like. This idea proved all right in the main, but at first, as I shall explain later, I had reason to believe that all my provisions in these respects were as unsubstantial as the baseless fabric of a dream. I did not take a passport as there are few European countries where they are essential, but in the light of my later experience, I should take one if going again, on account of the convenience as a means of identification when such becomes necessary. The cost, I believe is two dollars.

The Agency of which I finally bought my tickets, as an inducement for me to do so, promised to have a man meet me in Chicago to give me all necessary aid in transfer, — my starting point was about seven hours distant, — and another man at the New York terminus to take charge of myself and luggage, and to see that it and I were safely placed on board the steamship in good order and at no extra charge unless in the way of monetary exchange. These promises gave me great satisfaction, and it was well that they did, for it was all I had ; inasmuch as, so far as attendance was concerned, this Agency, — I will not, as I might, take so cruel a revenge upon it as to publish its name abroad, — almost entirely failed to make good its engagements.

I descended from the train in Chicago, bag in hand, refusing offered attendance as I supposed I was provided for; but, trudging along over the long platform to the transfer 'buses, no sign of a tourist agent did I see. Inquiries right and left were of no avail. There was only one hour and three quarters between trains, but, though my ticket included transfer through Chicago I could not go directly on, because my money had not yet been converted into foreign funds, and I had still much promised instruction to receive. After a moment of indecision I took a 'bus to the Agency.

Perhaps my inexperienced countrywoman would like to learn that in Chicago all authorized transference facilities are in the hands of one organization, the Parmelee Line. In purchasing tickets that necessitate a change in Chicago, one should stipulate for a transfer coupon. Then, on presenting the same to any of Parmelee's men, who are always on hand, one has no ditficulty in finding one's proper conveyance. On my doing this and stating that I wished to interview my tourist agent before going to the other station, the attendant kindly informed me that he would drop me at the right place en route. This he did, but by stopping I was of course obliged to lose the benefit of my coupon, besides having all the bother and uncertainty of looking up the agent.

But I found and sternly confronted him with my demand for advice and exchange. The official had the grace to seem surprised at my appearing there alone, and tried to explain that a man had been sent to meet me but "probably had got a little behind time."

Minutes were precious and I wasted none in reproaches but proceeded to business. The agent recommended putting the most of my funds in circular notes of English money, as available to be cashed in any foreign currency on presenting a letter of identificition which he also gave me, at any place where I should be likely to go.

Reserving enough of the balance to provide for my expenditures to and in New York City, he put the remainder into French money as I was sailing on a French ship to a French port. At this date, an American, or rather, a United States' dollar was worth a little more than five French francs, four German tnarken, or four English shillings. Here let me warn my unsophisticated sister against ever confusing the English shilling with the value recognized under that name in the United States. The United States shilling is simply unheard of and unknown abroad, (as it ought to be at home for it does not exist in our money table ) and whereever the term shilling is used it always, without exception, signifies the English shilling of twelve pence or twenty-four United States cents. I mention this because I saw so many cases where unfortunate Americans were hopelessly confused on account of persisting in using the term shilling to represent twelve and a half cents, to the great mystification of their foreign hearers.

Regarding exchange and letters of credit, any banker would do the service quite as well as a Tourist Agency, and in many cases it might be preferable to have it done at home by one's acquaintances ;but,going alone as I was, I deemed it better, as I mentioned before, to have as much claim as possible on the attention of some well-known corporation as easily accessible abroad as at home. But all this is a matter of expediency.

I made particular inquiries of the agent, as to how to escape in New York the difficulties that had presented themselves in Chicago, as in New York I should be more helpless, never having embarked for a foreign tour and not knowingjust what to do, nor even whether a woman alone would be capable of doing everything. But I was assured there was no possibility of my missing their man there, that the Company had men in uniform with the name of the Agency in large letters, to meet all trains, that I could not fail to see them, that everybody knew the agency-men, and moreover they had been advised to look out for me, and so on. So I departed comforted, with a man, — in this instance a nice, friendly lad, — detailed to put me on the New York train, see to my sleeper and so forth, all of which he did politely and efficiently, and I was soon rolling away toward New York.

The hours went on ; night came and went and the darkness of the second evening closed in upon us, for not until eight P. M., were we within the confines of "the great city." A baggage-man appeared — as on all through trains nearing a terminus, to whom one may give one's checks with perfect safety, receiving a claimticket in return — and soon my luggage would be on its way to the steamer-docks where I would find it in the morning.

At eight forty-five, we stopped in the Grand Central Station of New York City. I walked out confidently expecting to be accosted at once by my promised messenger but, alas, he did not materialize. I looked about here and there, backward and forward, right and left, in fact in every direction except heavenward, — which last, in consideration of the nature of my past experiences, seemed futile to do, — but no one did I see who had apparently the least concern as to my welfare. No uniformed men except the trainmen and the red-capped porters, all of whom declared total ignorance concerning the agency-men, did not even know their uniform ; such also was the result of my inquiries in the waiting rooms and at the Bureau of Information. The fact was that I had simply been allowed to arrive with no attention provided whatever. I dwell upon this point because the Agency had been so lavish in its proffers and promises both verbal and written, that I had had no anxiet}'^ whatever on leaving home, and had I not been warned by my experience in Chicago, should have relied on them implicitly. And I feel moved to declare that I consider the Agency's course as a culpable breach of confidence, from which the consequences in the case of an unaccustomed traveler, a lady, arriving alone at night in this great, modern Babel, might have been deplorable in nervous strain if nothing more. I will say that, some months later, I received a most polite letter of regret and apology from the Agency, but this, though gratifying, hardly served to atone for the neglect. Fortunately for me, I was in a measure familiar with the place, so I picked up my satchel and went across the street to a well-known hotel where I obtained a comfortable room on the parlor floor at one dollar a day without meals. In the restaurant attached, one may consider one's purse in ordering from the menu. The rates seem high to a resident of a town of thirty thousand inhabitants, and if one is desirous of keeping expenses down still farther, one may go out across the street to a most attractively bright and clean eating-house, where wholesome and appetizing food is served at surprisingly moderate charges. All this for the benefit of that "lone sister" whom I have in my mind's eye in writing these lines.

At the hotel I tried to telephone the Tourist Agency. "Office closed for the night," was the report, so I betook me to my couch thinking I should certainly get word in the morning- Of course city offices are rarely open before nine, A. M,, but as the next was a '-sailing morning" the hotel manager thought I would find the agency men on hand early. So I tried at seven, A. M. "Closed." The steamer was to sail at ten and I was I knew not how far away. At any rate all the way from Forty-second street zigzaggedly across the city to Morton's Pier. No use to go personally to the office as it was closed. The hotel manager was kind and interested and gave me as good advice as he possessed, but of course he could not speak with authority. Finally, partly because time was slipping away and partly because, in classic phrase, "my spunk was up," I decided that if worst had come to worst, I was equal to the emergency of getting off for Europe alone, or anywhere else, and that no effete tourist agent should, by his indifference or inefficiency, compel me to lose my passage, nor entail upon me unneccessary additional expense. So, as economy was the order of the day, I did not even call a cab bub boarded a Fourth Avenue car. I knew my way pretty well and was burdened only with my handbag.

At Fourteenth Street I took a transfer to the pier. When I presented my ticket to the transfer-man he vociferated violently and offensively, as if 1 were offering him a personal insult, "That hain't no good ! Yer gotto pay another fare !" I was not at all appalled at his demeanor nor did

ONE WOMAN WONDERING 9

I "lose my head" or temper, though it certainly was not my fault that I had a wrong transfer nor had I objected to paying a second fare though entitled to transfer. I do not understand why these street-car employes are so ready to deem that a gentlewoman in appearance and speech deserves brow beating and crushing when she is merely trying to follow the routine of the road so far as she comprehends it; but such is too frequently the case and I only mention it here and my reception of the same, as a possible aid to the "solitary sister" when she "will a- wandering go." I let the fellow expend his rudeness without remonstrance and when he had quite ceased speaking I civilly asked him to kindly show me which car to take; he had evidently keyed himself up to receive a torrent of expostulation on my part, and when none came he seemed dazed for a moment, then acceded to my request in a manner comparatively calm, and I went on slowly but surely toward Morton Pier. I was the sole passenger when the car reached the end of the route and here it was my good fortune to encounter so kind and gentlemanly a young man, albeit in the guise of a conductor, that I almost felt like forgiving the before-mentioned surly brute in consideration of his being a co-employe of this young man. Of course he could not leave his car but he pointed out where I must go and told me just what to do and was so interesting and painstaking that if we had been, as I was la'er, in a foreign land, I should have "tipped" him well for his civility; as it was, I would not insult his manhood by offering to pay him for being polite to a woman.

It was now nine o'clock. Steamer to sail at ten. I rushed across the tracks, before and behind cars, carts and quadrupeds, ignoring the surprised glances of everybody at seeing a wandering woman dashing about utterly unattended in that busy and hubbubby place. I felt a sort of unholy glee in getting on so independently of that faithless agency man, who was probably at this moment reading his morning paper and toasting his toes at ease before his fire, imagining that I must await his pleasure. I made my way into the great building placarded, Compagnie General Atlantique, where my smattering of French enabled me to read the signs and labels about, and I was able with few questions to get my luggage, send it aboard by means of three men whom I paid twenty-five cents each, (which payment I afterward learned was entirely unexpected and unnecessary,) and finally I walked up the gang-plank myself and stood apon the deck of La Cha^njiagne.

I have thus detailed these trivial incidents, not because of their interest but to give the "inexperienced sister" some idea of transportation at small expense. I rather enjoyed it on the whole, but if the "sister" is timid or nervous, she would better take a cab for the pier, at her hotel door. Rates are high and though the hotel manager will procure for one a trusty driver, it is quite necessary to have an explicit understanding as to terms, before one starts.

I will not deny that emotions of new and varied sorts filled my breast as I looked down from the deck upon the swaying crowds, the infinite diversity of faces and figures, the cabs coming and going, the incessant stream of ladies, gentlemen, porters, seamen, children, dogs and so forth, passing and repassing up and down the plank, and heard the continually repeated screeching of whistles and jangling of bells mingled with shouts and cries, with the rush and roll of carriage and cart, of barrel and cask, the dumping and th'ud of box and bale and chest and all the innumerable stock and store of a ship's cargo, and reflected that I had succeeded in "getting there" all on my own responsibility. And I began to felicitate myself that I alone had attended to everything and still had plenty of time. Then I noticed a party coming up with bags and bundles and steamer chairs.

Scissors and teapots ! I had forgotten my steamer- chair ! A glance at my watch, — nine tw.enty-five, — steamer sails at ten ! Back again down the plank — a mad rush for the bureau — a wild demand in impossible French for the desired article. Rent, a United States "dollaire" for the round trip, No money but French — oflFer a five /rcmc piece supposing it an equivalent — rejected as not enough — nothing else but gold — frantically hold out a handful, whereupon the commissionaire takes pity on me and pushes it back, accepting my silver piece and kindly saying in broken English: "Teez owanlee troah sonts, navaire mynde." Whereby I learn that the current value of a five franc piece at the Bureau Transatlantique, IB ninety-seven cents; though if you offer a dollar for something valued at five francs, you get no change in return.

I hurriedly gave the man my name and sped back. Again looked at my watch ; nine fifty. Plenty of time and everything really ready at last. Later on I find myself transformed by the label on my chair, into "Madame Heexheimer."

I may as well say here that this expense of a chair was in my case entirely unnecessary. It being winter, there was no especial temptation to sit on deck, as if one wished to be outside it was much pleasanter to move about. Moreover there were plenty of benches on deck if one chose to sit. I used my chair but twice, and then only because I thought it the regulation thing to do. As I had not decided to return by this line, I lost the benefit of my round trip payment and by engaging a chair I became liable to the deck-steward for a fee, whether service were rendered or not.

In summer, when there are many passengers and the weather is fine, a chair may be most desirable, but in this instance I might have made a clear savirg of at least two dollars had I been familiar with the situation. I may note here also that since my outward bound passage, there has been a change in the method of renting these chairs and one now must pay a dollar a voyage instead of for round trip, as before. All of which I commend to the consideration of my imaginary "lone woman."

And now it is ten o'clock and the great steamer begins to quiver. We all know the ccuplet :

"She moves, she stirs, phe seems to feel A thrill of life along her keel !"

and a dozen other lines as apropos will spring to mind. The little tug was noisily doing its duty. The pier was a sea of upturned faces and waving handkerchiefs.

"Good-bye!"

''Adieu!''

''LehewohlP'

"Good luck to you!"

'■'■Boil voyage f

"■Glueckliche Reise!''''

Some were laughing, some were in tears, all were excited, and a responsive throng on deck gave back farewell, smile and tear.

I stood apart. I was alone. The good-byes and good wishes were not for me. No one there knew of me. It was rather a melancholy thought ; and yet there was a bright gleam of satisfaction in the reflection that, being there thus alone and by my own unaided efforts, I was under no sort of an obligation to waft even the most formal of farewells to that inert and ever elusive tourist agent.

Chapter II

At last we were abroad upon the mighty deep. Gradually we had made our way out from the slips, piers and docks and from the crowds of shipping of every description and nationality. Out away from the marvelous span of Brooklyn Bridge and from the majestic statue towering above the busy harbor and forever lifting toward high heaven the deathless torch of liberty. Out away between shores wharf-lined and covered as far as eye could reach with street on street of structure, lofty and low, proud and plebeian, rich and wretched, and permeated everywhere by seemingly the same restless, rushing, hurrying throng, until by and by the fields and hedge-rows began to appear, pervaded even now with a faint, subtile shade of green ; soon we passed the various isles that dot the harbor, the old fort on Staten Island standing out phenomenally distinct, and then suddenly the fog closes in and shuts out all the world. Reluctantly we abandon our posts of outlook and pass inside to make acquaintance with that interior where we shall eat, drink and sleep for so many days.

Surprising indeed is the spectacle we behold. All is bewilderment and confusion. Everybody seems to be in every other body's way. The poor people in the steerage, of whom we get occasional glimpses in our present futile attempts to find out "where we are at," are huddled together amid their forlorn "bits of things, ' ' like a flock of frightened sheep and look sad and pitiable. The second-cabiners are as yet unseparated from the first; everyone is more or less unsettled, even the old stagers, — or should I say "shippers?" — to whom a sea voyage is but the veriest episode. Shouts and commands in a foreign tongue and the inability of the ship's company to understand our American French, add to the general distraction. We find later that most of the crew speak good English, but this fact has not as yet dawned upon our perturbed brains. Bags and bundles of all sorts are heaped in apparently inextricable disorder, laying traps for unwary feet. Dogs and children are trotting about astray and lifting their several voices in howls in various keys and of varying intensity. Birds, large and small, are shrieking in dismay from divers and sundry cages, and amid all is heard the thud, thud of the steamer's machinery as it steadily beats out the revolutions that, God guiding, shall pause not nor delay till we reach the strange shores so far distant.

As a temporary diversion the cabin passengers are very soon summoned to an informal luncheon while the ship's force indefatigably toils to bring order out of chaos. And here may I caution my unsophisticated "solitary sister," as a possible preventive of sea-sickness, to partake sparingly through the first day at least, of the abundant and tempting fare provided on the great ocean-liners?

The striking of "deep water" is usually the crucial test of one's powers as a "good sailor, " and one who escapes this ordeal will probably pass along almost unaffected to the other side.

The work goes untiringly on ; wandering mortals find their cabins ; weeping women are consoled and irate men pacified; timid passengers are encouraged, while stray children and pets reach their proper owners, and at last, by the time the electric lights leap forth and we are bidden to our evening meal, a semblance at least of order and regularity reigns in the brilliant dining-room, or salle-d-manyer, as we are taught to consider it. The western continent has dropped below the horizon and we begin really and truly to be rocked in the cradle of the deep.

The first day out, as customary, we were each assigned a seat at table, and given a sailing list. Here I found I had undergone another transformation and was now figuring as *'Mr. Hanson." Others, however, had similar surprises and it was like solving a puzzle to find out which name belonged to whom, and what it really should be instead of what it was. Different ships have different methods of arranging the sittings at table. On La Champagne, a very polite steward called at each stateroom door and asked if the occupants thereof had any choice as to seats ; if so, they were gratified if possible, and to each person was handed a card with a number corresponding to that on his chair at table.

At my table are a Ji"Z/e.H.,of New York City, whose name is not on the list at all, a Mr. and Mrs. M.,of Berkeley, California, and a Senor U., of Le Havre. Mile. H. and Mr. M. speak both French and English; Mrs. M., only English; Senor U., Spanish and French, so when we are all there we manage to keep up quite a continuous conversation, the learned ones interpreting for the less so. Scarcely anyone on a French steamer appears before c/eyeM»er( pronounced "deh-zhoon-eh," with no accent, )a sort of heavy luncheon about eleven o'clock. The first repast is truly a "break-fast," being but a roll without butter, and a cup of "coffee with milk," served usually in one's cabin before one rises. There is, I understand, a meal called the ' 'American breakfast, " provided for such incorrigible natives as are unable to fall into foreign ways, but this is alien to the general atmosphere; individually, I took very kindly to the custom of keeping my berth until the first warning bell sounded half an hour before dejeumer.

It so chanced that Senor U. and myself usually appeared first at our table and frequently finished our meal before any of our table-mates came in. As he spoke neither English nor German and I had no Spanish and but a smattering of French, and as the politeness of his nationality, I suppose, would not permit him to sit in a lady's presence with no effort to entertain her, many desperate attempts were made by us to evolve some method of communication ; but it all resolved mainly into an assiduous offering of each to the other of whatever was within our reach, accompanied by a series of "nods and becks and wreathed smiles" whenever one caught the other's eyes. I shall always remember him as a most painfully courteous man, and I dare sa}- he will long recollect his arduous endeavors in my behalf.

The table was excellent, served carefully in French table d' hote style, that is, only one thing at a time, which I do not like, as I prefer my meat with my vegetables. Also I like butter on my bread and cream in my tea and coffee, which preferences astonish the French caterer. If he serves you with butter at all it is unsalted and given you upon a plate the size of the ordinary dinner-plate. If you insist on cream with your coffee, he brings you a concoction which he calls '■'■cafe-au-laW'' wherein the milk which does duty as cream, is boiled with the coffee, and with it he brings a tablespoon; I verily believe the French consider it a sort of soup. And as to tea, the drinking of it at all seems to be conceived as springing from a mild aberration of the English and the American mind, and one is looked upon Math surprise, not to say suspicion, if one declines the cognac that is always brought oil with it and the tiny cup of "black 2 )ffee" served at the close of dinner. Then again, I do not like wine of any sort as a beverage, especially the thin, sour vin ordinaire that is so universal and tastes very like poor vinegar. Nor am I especially fond of the cheeses and sauces which are served so abundantly, but of course all this soon becomes a matter of custom.