With a saucepan over the sea; quaint and delicious recipes from the kitchens of foreign countries

Front matter

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CHAPTER FIVE Cakes, Puddings, and Pastry 157

Richmond maids of honor and King Henry's shoe strings. A cake for a queen. Parsnip and Parkin cakes. Shrewsbury cakes and brandy snaps. Cakes of Scotland and the Isle of Man. Honey cakes of Basle. Almond cakes of Pithiviers. Norman and Westphalian cakes. " Gateau d'"epice'''' of the gingerbread fairs. Nuremberg gingerbread, or spice cake. Delightful German cakes. Madelienes. Napoleons, delicieuses, Savarins, and brioches. Two fine cakes of Marseilles. Greek, Roumanian, and vii

Contents

PAGE Russian cakes. German Xmas cake and English Twelfth Night cake. Hobelspane and spatzen, or sparrow cakes. All kinds of buns. Good Friday or hot cross buns. Yorkshire cakes and crumpets. Rice pudding in French fashions. Sabaglione and frangipane. Three famous old English puddings. A Swedish dessert. Prize plum pudding. Delicate desserts of French and German origin. A pudding of Buda-Pesth. Another of Italy, and Hungarian almond delight. Frumenty and Devonshire white-pot, in several ways. Syllabub, trifle, and roly-poly. Claret, as used in English and French desserts. A national dish of Norway. A convent sweet. Delicious creams from Bavaria. Swiss and German creams. Alpine baskets. Gooseberries, gages, and apricots in tempting shape. An ancient French dish. Apples in compote and casserole. A Roumanian sweet. Fascinating fancy omelettes. Gaufres. Wafers and waffles. Konglauff'e and imperial schmarn. Dainty pancakes of many sources. Fadges and fritters. Famous mi-careme fritters of Rome. French and Westphalian pastry. Epiphany cakes, or galettes. Fanchonettes and gimblettes. Cakes of Jersey, or wonders. Moravian love cakes. Banbury tarts. Tarts of all nations. Rheims biscuits. Profiterolles. Fruit pies. Rolls of Germany, Switzerland, France, and Austria.

CHAPTER SIX Ices, Preserves, and Confections 212

Ices of Italy, England, and France. Raisin pudding and praline. Judltha. A famous French marmalade. Secrets of French jams of combined flavors. Damson cheese. Bar-le-Duc jelly or jam. Rare old English recipes for mixed or single fruit jams. Orange marmalade of Dundee, yiii

Contents

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Rose jelly for pork and game. Almack's preserves. Tutti-frutti. Roseleaf jam of Greece, and Turkish delights. Nougat of Montellmert. Marrons glacees and maraschino bonbons. Barley sugar and apple sugar. Lozenges and marchpane. Italian candy. Vienna chocolate and Turkish coffee.

CHAPTER SEVEN Hot and Cold Drinks 222

Heidelberg punch and grandfather's nightcap. Lawn sleeve and brown Betty. Regent's punch and a punch for a king. Oxford grace cup and Oxford bishop. English garden-party drinks. Caudle, wassail, and Xmas bowl. Sack posset and other ancient swallows. Sir Walter Raleigh's recipe. Ale flip, lamb's wool, and mulled wine. Drinks of dead celebrities. Picturesque May nectar and Teutonic mead. Capillaire of "the boulevardier." Orange and rhubarb and currant wines. English home-made champagne. An Irish cordial. Recipes for fine and fancy French and German cordials. Violet vinegar and metheglin. Bitters for cocktails — an English recipe.

POSTSCRIPT

Hints and Secrets 239

The advantages of studying foreign cookery books. In what ways each of the old countries excel. Norway and Sweden stand apart. The uses of seasonings in European kitchens. Simplicity of art the aim of the expert cook. Natural flavors in their purity. Evil effects of spices. Soup the great panacea : how to make it ; cheaply,

ix

Contents

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but good. Details of stock-making explained. What to do with " left-overs." New-old secrets for using them. Why the cook gets fat. Braising, the quintessence of exquisite cookery, yet old as the hills. How to have herbs close at hand and always fresh. Garlic in poetical phase. How "left-overs" of meat are used in foreign kitchens. More hints about stock. Hash incognito. The many ways of wasting food prevalent in American homes. What a plain cook should know. The accomplishments of a fancy one. The glazing of meats and pastry, how done. Concluding with many little hints for the eager amateur.

Bills of Fare from Many Nations 249

Index 255

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Sweetbread Salad, Austria Frontispiece

{See page 132.)

Onion Soup with Cheese, Italy P^g^ 19

Matelote of Fish in Casserole, Normandy . ..." 39

Baked Sole, Normandy "43

Leg of Mutton, Gascony "68

Cannelons and Batons de Jakob, Marseilles ....'* 77 {See also page i6y. )

Braised Sweetbreads, Dauphiny " 87

Veal and Mushrooms, Germany "93

Mock Rabbit, Germany " no

Asparagus, as cooked in Spain "132

Asparagus and Shrimp Salad, Germany " ''SS

Bath Buns, England "171

Compote of Apples, Cherbourg "189

XI

In the agreeable but arduous task of gathering these recipes, many of which are unknown to Americans of three generations, a great deal of history and romance have been sifted through. Lack of space prevents telling the story of each dish and its great days, how it came to exist and for whom. Kings and queens, brave and fair, have supped on these, or have gone to battle or execution, thus and so. Starving peasants, lending glory to monarchy, through taxation and service, have invented certain soups and ragouts to eke out a sad and miserable life. Some dishes are peculiar to certain countries as a whole, their origin being obscure, although each was once known to a city or village or even a family, who kept it inviolate for centuries. Old housewives with manuscript books cherish recipes transmitted through generations but often brought from near-by provinces through intermarriage.

It was not considered needful to include within this book recipes for Lyonnaise potatoes, Spanish bun, French crullers, Neapolitan ice-cream, Welsh

xiii rarebit, etc. ; — almost any cook-book gives them. Nor is it necessary to offer recipes which are extravagant or unpalatable or requiring ingredients not procurable in this country. But many more might be included save for these reasons, so vast is the material. If the number of meats and vegetables seem limited, remember that this is a land of plenty, and that poverty of purse and soil have forced Europeans to use what we consider miserable fare, or else to cook the same thing, such as eggs, in a hundred different styles. Famine and siege and plague have schooled the European housewife to cook the poorest parts of animals, to use all weeds and wildflowers, not harmful, in salads and soups and entrees.

Foreign cookery books are, as a rule, unsatisfactory, the English being painfully naive, and the French too indefinite or too extravagant as regards quantities. It is hoped, therefore, that this little volume will fill a place between. Our cooking has been usually, so far, too plain or too rich, insipid or spicy, without that delicate intelligent seasoning which foreign cookery economically represents. We have had, too, most of our servants from Ireland, the least creative of countries, who lived in huts, ate potatoes and oatmeal, and never saw any utensil but an iron kettle.

The early colonists lived well, as many women interested in Revolutionary matters have discovered, because they brought over their own recipes and servants. In those parts settled by Catholics, — Louisiana, Maryland, Virginia, St. Louis, and Canada, — we find even better cooking to this day than those populated by English and Dutch Protestants, — New England, New York, and Pennsylvania,— because centuries of fasting have taught the French, and Catholics generally, except the South Irish, how to utilize vegetables, eggs, and fish with appetizing sauces. We find delicious Spanish dishes, brought either direct, long ago, or by slaves from the West Indies. The Dutch and English are heavy feeders. They settled America with pies, puddings, and cakes, using lard and treacle, however, villanously, until French cooking began to be known after the Civil War, to those who were rich and idle enough to travel to other lands. The good cooking of the negroes, who are naturally epicures, has a foreign origin. Something of France has dropped into Spain and somehow fallen into Africa.

But the American farmer, in healthful and truly economical living, — avoiding waste and doctors' bills, — is still far behind the European farmer, although he is better off financially. He is not rosy and fat, happy and gay. He takes patent medicines in increasing amounts, and eats indigestible fried food, pork and salt fish, and bread of white flour, robbed of almost every mineral required for growth. A grain of wheat, indeed, represents a little man. The farmer does not eat what he ought because his wife and daughters do not know how to make it attractive to sight and taste. The American artisan, in city slums, contrasted with the foreign workman, is just as poorly fed, for ignorance of first principles is at the bottom of all sorrow and want, either spiritual or physical. Men drink because they have a sinking feehng ; good food satisfies that craving permanently. But many otherwise intelligent people are prejudiced against foreign dishes because they are rich or fancy. Fancy work in the kitchen pays better dividends than fancy work in the parlor, and butter and herbs are less injurious than pork fat and pepper. Bad cooking is at the root of many divorces, and divorces are more numerous here than abroad. If we ate freely of greens, in salads and fresh vegetables, all of which are cheaper here than in Europe, we should not need blood purifiers nor quinine ; fruit replaces liver pills, olive oil is more easily assimilated than cod liver oil, and strengthening soups are the best tonics. And it

xvi may be said that false hair and false teeth are not seen nearly so much abroad as they are here, because the people are better nourished.

To any one fond of good cooking, it is fascinating to see what Marie Stuart, Napoleon, Marie de Medici, Louis XIV., Henry of Navarre, or Joan of Arc, ate. For what we eat, we become ; and food forms faces, even as the prevalent fashions of thought or dress mould the features and character. Nothing is mean to those who can see all sides, and, as Francatelli said, " The palate is as capable and almost as worthy of cultivation as the eye and ear." Genius has generally been a gourmet^ if not a gourmand.

American cooking suffers from American nervousness, exactly as American nerves are suffering from American cookery. We are too hurried to eat properly, to enjoy what we eat as well as what we see and hear, except while travelling in Europe. Many people will recall certain dishes here given, having tasted them abroad. Others, transplanted families, may be glad to have recipes from th^ Fatherland, and from all lands searched for household treasures, which are grouped beneath our flag to make America what she is, — the best combination of the best traits. In tracing each recipe to its source, some interesting comparisons were found. Hagerstown pudding, which Southerners know and laugh at, is merely " nun's fritters " of French convents, but although a dish centuries old, the fried bread is served here with molasses and in Europe, it is first dipped in batter, then served with honey. Catholic gentlewomen introduced it as a relic of school-days. Again, scrapple is only the brawn of English winter fare and known wherever the English have settled. Terrapin was cooked to imitate turtle soup, and pork and beans was either a copy of pease porridge or else a recipe brought entire by slaves from Jamaica, who got it from Spain, where it still exists. But what do Americans — save those of French descent — know of braising, that delicious mode of rendering tough meat tender and succulent ? To many it is a revelation. It lies between baking and frying, and the closed saucepan or casserole used retains the nutritious fumes of the meat, which usually go off into thin air, utterly wasted.

A young Gascon named Braise — Gascony has ever been a country of epicures — won a silver gridiron in a cooking contest, under Louis XIV., for introducing this new fashion in foods. Again, Paris first knew brioches — fine biscuits, made like our eclairs — when Marie Antoinette brought the formula from Vienna ; Austria has always been famous for cakes and rolls. When the starving mob raged for bread, the queen asked wonderingly, " Why don't you give them brioches? " Because, of course, she did not know the cost of things. Another delectable Parisian sweet — Baba pudding — was introduced by King Stanislaus of Poland, on a visit, about 1725, who brought his own cooks in his train. In Poland it is still called " babka," meaning a little old woman, because it has a huddled look, like a poor old creature muffled in a shawl. In northern France, especially in the province of Normandy, baked fish is larded with strips of bacon, stuffed with a forcemeat of mushrooms, shrimps, and oysters ; and it is known that when Marie de Medici married the dauphin, son of Francis I., the young couple lived at the ancient castle of Chambord, where the Italian cooks, seeking variety, tried to serve the carp from the fountains for dinner ; these fish are very insipid and dry, and the foreign method of baking in stock with the above improved them. Italy thus gave France her first lesson in cookery, and the art was indigenous to this country since the luxurious days of pagan Rome. Charlotte Russe, the English will tell you, was a pudding invented for the wife of George III., but the French say that Chartres, an old town of the north, originated this form of chartreuse. And as for Avignon of Provence, in the south, they insist that superlative cooking will always flourish there because it was for a long while the home of the Pope, and the angels taught the natives how to cook. Travellers will agree that southern France, with its bouillabaisse and cannelons and vol-au-vents, is bewitching, yet when they go to Normandy they find just as fine fare. A Parisian housekeeper prefers a Norman cook to any other, but again, all the poets and artists come from the southland and have been nourished on bouillabaisse. The Normans are as thrifty as the Quakers, yet the Quakers have made Philadelphia famous for feasting. The Proven9als are careless and gay like the Spanish and Italians, so near ; and here. New Orleans, combining French taste and Spanish ardor, claims good cooking as her birthright. If, however, a study of these recipes widens the horizon of any housewife, as eager and patient to excel as time and money permit, or any travellers find this book a guide for epicures, the work of compilation will not have been in vain.

ADELAIDE KEEN.

XX

Chapter One — Sotcps COCKA LEEKIE. (Scotland.)

This Is the oldest recipe for soup known, as it dates back to the fourteenth century. Wash and trim I dozen leeks, cut them in pieces half an Inch long, discarding roots and tops, then fry them in I ounce of butter, with 2 stalks of celery and i carrot, cut fine. When brown but not burnt, add I ^2 quarts of chicken broth and i cup of cooked chicken, cut into dice. Simmer, covered, 1 hours, then add salt, pepper, and yolk of an egg, blended with a little of the broth, first, before adding to the soup.

PETITE MARMITE.

This Is the national soup of France, and just now very fashionable In first-class restaurants. It Is always served In the earthen pot In which It Is cooked, set on a fancy plate. Each mouthful should convey a distinct taste of a separate vegetable. The marmites are sold at the crockery stores in the French quarter, but an ordinary earthen

Boston bean pot will answer equally well to serve it in. The stock can be first cooked in a large kettle, used for soups, every day.

Cut up 6 pounds of beef and the shin bone, an old chicken, — which can be used for croquettes or salad, — 2 large carrots, 2 leeks, and 2 turnips. Add 3 cloves, a bayleaf, some parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram, i gallon of water. Bring it to a boil, skim it, and let it simmer 8 hours. Take off the fat, clarify it, and use it for frying or braising. Add salt and pepper sparingly, set it away overnight, after straining it. To i quart of this, heated in the earthen pot, add i cup of sliced carrots, turnips, or string beans, cut thin and cooked. Also 4 slices of toasted bread or rolls. Using this recipe for stock — it is given by a reliable chef at one of the clubs — it will make 3 Y2 quarts, sufficient for a week ; i pint a day, with the addition of milk or vegetables or any other thickening, will do for a small family. Such concentrated stock requires an equal amount of water in cooking a second time. It may also be used in making sauces.

PUREE JACKSON. (Paris.)

Wash, parboil, and pare 6 large potatoes. Slice them, add 2 ounces of butter, fry lightly, then add salt, pepper, nutmeg, a bayleaf, some parsley, 1 ounces of chopped ham, i sliced onion, and 6 stalks of celery. Simmer for ^ hour. Press through a sieve, add i pint of white stock made from chicken or veal, and i pint of boiling milk, 1 ounces of butter, and the yolk of i egg, blended with a little of the milk. Stir well, add some bread, toasted and cut in dice, called croutons, and serve at once.

EGG SOUP. (Monte Carlo.)

Cut 6 slices of stale bread and dip them lightly in sugar. Put them in the oven to brown, and have ready i pint of white stock and i pint of boiling milk, blended with the yolks of 3 eggs and

1 ounce of butter. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg and a spoonful of chopped parsley. Pour over the slices of toast and serve, after keeping hot, ten minutes.

QUEEN SOUP.

This is said to have been invented for Marie Stuart by the royal cook when she lived in France as dauphiness. It was a favorite with both Victoria and Napoleon Bonaparte. Cook

2 large onions with 2 pieces of celery, both cut up, in 2 ounces of butter. Add some parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf, i chicken cut into joints, and 2 quarts of water. Simmer for 4 hours. Take out the chicken, cut the meat of the wings and breast into dice, and keep the dark meat for croquettes or salad. Chop one dozen blanched almonds, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, and 2 slices of bread soaked in milk. Pound these with the meat and press through a sieve ; add to the soup, strained, i cup of boiling cream or rich milk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Serve at once, hot.

CHICKEN SOUP. (As made in Nice.)

Cook I ounce of ham with i}4 quarts of chicken broth for }4 hour. Add i cup of young carrots cut into dice, i dozen small white onions, and i cup of turnips, cut into dice, all cooked previously, also two tablespoonfuls of cooked shredded cabbage, the meat from breast and wings cut into dice, and 2 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice. Strain the soup before adding the vegetables and chicken, season it, and serve.

LOBSTER SOUP. (Paris.)

Boil I fine hen lobster weighing 2 pounds. Pick and chop the meat and pound the coral with I ounce of butter and rub it through a sieve. Add to the meat 2 quarts of white stock, i onion, parsley, thyme, and the rind of a lemon. Cook j^ hour, add a blending of flour and butter, and rub it through a sieve. Season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, add ^ pint of whipped cream, and serve, giving a little cream to each person.

LOBSTER SOUP. (London.)

Cut into dice the meat of a boiled lobster, fryit with I carrot, i onion, 4 pieces of celery, all sliced, parsley, thyme, and the rind of a lemon, in

2 ounces of butter. Add 6 ounces of rice flour, or cooked rice rubbed to a paste, 3 pints of good stock, and the meat and pounded coral. Cook yi hour, press through a sieve, add i glass of sherry, some of the meat in pieces, and made into forcemeat balls with bread, herbs, eggs, and poached in a little broth.

CREAM OF SHRIMPS. (As made in Nice.)

Boil, shell, clean, and chop fifty shrimps, fry them in 1 ounces of butter, add i slice of stale bread,

3 anchovies, 4 ounces of boiled rice, i sliced onion, salt, pepper, and 1 quarts of white stock. Cook this 1 hours. Press through a sieve a tablespoonful of sherry or a glass of white wine, and serve hot.

CREAM OF SHRIMPS. (As made in Paris.)

Parboil, shell, clean, and chop fifty fine shrimps, fry in 2 ounces of butter, add i cup of bread-crumbs of stale bread, not the crust, salt and pepper, i quarts of fish stock or that made of chicken or veal, I clove, i onion, sliced. Save six of the shrimps to add, cut into dice, before serving. Cook 1 hours, press through a sieve, add i cup of boiling cream, a little nutmeg, and the shrimps and 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry.

LOBSTER SOUP. (As made in Nantes, France.)

Cook I ounce of chopped ham, i onion, and i carrot, cut fine, parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf, in i ounce of butter. Add 3 pounds of lobster meat, cooked and cut into dice, i pint of white wine, and lyi quarts of veal stock. Simmer i hour. Strain the soup, add 1 cups of boiled rice and i hard-boiled egg sliced and some butter. Season and serve with croutons.

CONSOMME COLBERT. (France.)

Clarify i quart of beef stock, well flavored and made from fresh meat, add i tablespoonful of sherry, and in each plate put an egg, poached in water and vinegar, to keep it firm and white. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve very hot.

SOUP BONNE FEMME. (Provincial France.)

This is the broth of the farmer and peasant's wife, wholesome and nourishing. Wash, dry, and cut up 1 large lettuces, i pound of sorrel, and i pound of spinach. Add i Y2 quarts of good white stock and simmer, with % pound of butter, 2 onions, and 2 carrots, for i hour. Add a blending of I ounce of butter, i ounce of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, and a cup of boiling milk, salt, and pepper. Press through a sieve, and serve with croutons.

PECTORAL BROTH. (A French convent soup, given to delicate nuns.)

Cut up an old fowl and put with the liver, heart, and gizzard, 2 quarts of water, with a handful of marshmallow root and 2 cups of barley, i carrot, 3 onions, parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Simmer for 3 hours, strain the broth, pressing the barley through a sieve ; add the yolk of I egg, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of rum or brandy. It should be reduced to almost a quart, and is very healing.

PIGEON SOUP. (Belgium.)

Blend i ounce of butter with 6 ounces of flour, add 3 pigeons, cut up and fried in butter, i ounce of chopped ham, 2 quarts of consomme or veal stock, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, i leek, and a piece of celery. Cook i hour, strain it, cut the meat into dice, add i cup of cooked green peas, salt, pepper, i cup of cooked and sliced carrots, and a glass of white wine.

FROG SOUP. (Normandy.)

To i/^ quarts of white stock, add 1% ounces of flour, an onion, parsley, celery, salt, and pepper. Cook it I hour, strain and add i dozen frogs' legs, fried in butter, and a glass of sherry. Cook yi hour more, add the yolks of 1 eggs, blended with I cup of hot milk and a little butter.

HARE SOUP. (Poland.)

Cook the bones, trimmings, gravy, and stuffing of some cooked rabbit with 3 onions, i carrot, i turnip, sliced, 2 cloves, a little mace, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, and a piece of celery. Add i ounce of butter, and then, when fried together, add i quart of beef stock. Cook 2 hours, strain it, taking out the bones and pressing the rest through a sieve. Add I dozen forcemeat balls, made of bread-crumbs, chopped ham, herbs, egg, and butter, and poached in stock, a tablespoonful of port wine, and salt and pepper.

LIVER SOUP. (Poland.)

Cut ^ pound of liver into slices, add flour, — a spoonful, — I ounce of butter and i onion, cut fine. Fry this and then pound it, add three slices of stale bread, in crumbs, salt, and pepper and 3 pints of brown stock. Boil 20 minutes, press through a sieve, add yolk of i egg and some chopped parsley, and serve at once.

EEL SOUP. (Hamburg.)

Clean and cut into 2-inch pieces 2 pounds of eels. Add i pint of boiling water, salt, pepper, parsley, i carrot, i onion, and ^ cup of vinegar. Cook 20 minutes, then add i cup of finely sliced carrot, cooked in water until tender, and i cup of cooked peas, 2 quarts of white stock, parsley, some thyme, and sweet marjoram, one half of the eel broth and salt. Finally blend and add i cup of hot milk and the yolk of i egg and pour into a tureen over the eels. Pass with this a dish of stewed pears, as they do in Hamburg.

FRENCH GIBLET SOUP.

Chop the liver, wings, gizzard, and heart of a turkey, or 2 chickens fine, and fry them in i ounce of butter with i onion ; add i quart of beef stock and I pint of hot water, salt, pepper, i onion, i carrot, i turnip, 2 pieces of celery, and 2 ounces of rice. Cook for i hour and serve hot.

ENGLISH GIBLET SOUP.

Fry the chopped giblets in butter, as above, add 2 ounces of flour, stir, and when brown, add i quart of beef stock, a bayleaf, some parsley, 3 pieces of cooked celery, cut into dice, 2 sliced hard-boiled eggs, a tablespoonful of sherry, and 6 forcemeat balls, made of the meat of the fowl, bread, herbs, and egg, poached in broth. Heat all well and serve hot.

OXCHEEK SOUP. (England.)

Fry 2 ounces of chopped ham with 2 onions and 2 carrots, minced, a bayleaf, some parsley, in 2 ounces of butter. Add 2 small heads of celery, i parsnip, and 2 slices of toast, a little mace, i clove, and 5 quarts of water, and the oxcheek cut into dice. Simmer gently 5 hours. Season to taste. It will make about 4 quarts of rich but economical broth.

OXTAIL SOUP. (England.)

This recipe and the one above were brought by French refugees who had learned, during exile and enforced poverty, how to make the best of their resources.

Cut 3 oxtails into pieces and steep them in water for 2 hours. Drain them, fry in 2 ounces of butter or suet, add salt, pepper, 2 carrots, i leek, i onion, a piece of celery, i clove, and some parsley. Simmer 3 hours, remove the bones, and put the meat into the soup, add 6 small white onions, fried in butter until tender, and serve with croutons.

CALF'S HEAD SOUP. (Recipe of the Hotel Star and Garter, Richmond, England.)

Parboil and bone a calf's head. Put the bones and the meat, cut up, in 4 quarts of water with i ounce of flour, salt, pepper, a bayleaf, some parsley, a clove, 1 carrot, and i onion. Cook 4 hours, take out the bones, cut the meat into dice, strain the soup, add the meat, 3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced, I dozen poached forcemeat balls, made of some meat, bread-crumbs, herbs, and eggy 1 glass of sherry and i lemon, cut in slices. Serve at once, hot.

BATTENBERG SOUP (as made at Windsor).

Cook I calf's foot, 3 pounds of soup beef, 3 carrots, 3 onions, 2 cloves, a piece of celery, parsley, and thyme, in 3 ^ quarts of water for 4 hours. Take out the meat, remove the bones, put the meat, cut up, back in the soup, and set aside until next day. Skim off the fat — clarify it, as directed for frying or braising — strain the soup, add sufficient flour and butter to thicken it, the meat, i glass of sherry, salt, pepper, and i cup of hot cream.

REGENT'S SOUP. (England.)

Add to the bones, stuffing, gravy, and trimmings of cold roast duck or game, 2 quarts of beef stock, I carrot, i onion, i turnip, i head of celery all cut up, 4 ounces of barley, parsley, thyme, and a clove. Simmer 2 hours, press through a sieve, season to taste, add the pounded yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, half a cup of boiling milk, and a glass of sherry.

PEPPER-POT.

This dish is peculiar to Spain, but it was imported to Jamaica, whence the negroes took the recipe north. In Philadelphia, there are several small restaurants, kept by darkies who are famous for pepper-pot.

To 3 quarts of water add i pint of vegetables, cut up, any kinds, mixed, you happen to have, in equal parts, using beans, peas, celery, carrots, onions, rice, lettuce, etc., also potatoes, add i pound of mutton, i pound of salt pork, and i pound of honeycomb tripe, cut up and fried in butter or suet, i bayleaf, i clove, parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Cook, closely covered, 3 hours. Set aside to cool, remove the fat, thicken with flour and butter and yolk of an egg, add salt and pepper, and serve very hot.

CLEAR GAME SOUP. (Poland.)

Cut up a calf's foot, add the bones and scraps and gravy of any cold game, duck, or rabbit, 2 ounces of chopped ham, i onion, 1 carrots, parsley, th^me, a bayleaf, a bit of mace, and a piece of celery.

Cook it with 2 quarts of water for 3 hours. Strain and clarify it with white of an egg, add salt, pepper, a glass of sherry, i hard-boiled egg, and i lemon, sliced.