A winter in the West Indies : described in familiar letters to Henry Clay, of Kentucky

Letter X. Page

LETTER XL Jamaica 159

LETTER XIL The Contrast 177

LETTER XIII.

Cuba 199

LETTER XIV.

Return to America 222

APPENDIX A.

Letter from Samuel and Mary Nottingham, or Bkistoe . 233

APPENDIX B.

Letter from Dr. Davy, Custos of Manchester . . 235

APPENDIX C.

Reconciliation 237

APPENDIX D.

Free and Friendly Remarks 253

PREFATORY LETTER

TO SIR THOMAS FOWELL BUXTON^ BART.

My dear Buxton,

In returning home after an absence of more than three years, spent chiefly in a gospel mission to parts of North America and the West Indies, I have felt pecuUar pleasure and satisfaction in ray reunion with thyself. From our very early years have we been bound together in the ties of friendship and brotherhood, and while we have agreed in almost all our sentiments, I have long considered it a privilege to assist in promoting those great objects, which have occupied thy attention in public life. Although so far separated from thee, of latter time, I have watched thy proceedings for the benefit of Africa, with the deepest interest. I consider it to be a happy circumstance that the absence of parliamentary duties has afforded thee so ample an opportunity for unravelling and recording the woes of that most afflicted quarter of the globe, and for developing a system of remedial measures, which ought, as I think, to obtain the approbation and assistance of all good men, whatsoever their sect, party, or nation. In making this remark, I have no allusion to the advice which thou hast thought proper to offer to our government, respecting the strengthening of the naval force on the coast of Africa, and the protection by arms of any colonies which may be planted on that continent. Although I agree with

PREFATORY LETTER.

thee in the opinion, that these measures class under the head of an armed pohce, rather than under that of offensive or defensive warfare, yet they are points in which, for my own part, I feel conscientiously restrained from taking any part. In the mean time these points are under the sole care of government, and cannot interfere (as it appears to me) with the claims of the African Civilization Society, on the christian public*

* There is a third particular connected with Sir T. F. Buxton's views for tlie benefit of Africa, which is under the sole care and responsibility of Government — I mean the proposed expedition to the Niger. From Lord John Russell's admirable official letter on this subject, it appears that three iron steam vessels are appointed to be sent up that river, with commissioners on board, whose duty it will be to form treaties with the African chiefs and powers, for the suppression of the slave trade, and for the establishment of legitimate commercial relations between Africa and Great Britain. While this object must meet with the cordial approbation of every Christian philanthropist, there is one circumstance connected with the expedition, which stands directly opposed to my own views, and those of many others who wish well to the undertaking : it is that these vessels (as in all similar expeditions sent out by Government) are, to a certain extent, armed for the purpose of protection.

Lord John Russell's letter is dated " 26th December, 1839." The Society for the Civilization of Africa, instituted about six months afterwards, cordially approves and encourages the general object herein pursued by Government. In its printed circular, the Society, amongst other things, proposes " to cooperate by every means in its power with the Government expedition to the Niger ; to report its progress — assist its operations — circulate the valuable information it may communicate ; and generally to keep alive the interest of Great Britain in the suppression of the slave trade, and the welfare of Africa." Now the very word " cooperate" seems to point out the action of independent parties, united in the pui'suit of a common object. While the Society confines the above mentioned cooperation and assistance, to matters purely pacific (as has hitherto been strictly the case) it seems to me to stand on a safe ground. It cannot, as I apprehend, be fairly considered responsible for a collateral circumstance., distinctly disapproved by some of its members, which it has done nothing to promote., and which belongs exclusively to the independent action of Government.

This Society maintains its own independence, not only as it relates to Government, but as it regards all associations formed for the respective

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But I can cordially unite with thee first, in thy advice to our rulers to enter into friendly treaties for the suppression of the slave trade, and for other pacific purposes, with the native powers of Africa ; and secondly, in the whole of thy noble plan for the establishment of commercial and agricultural relations with that benighted region, and for the extension of civilization, education, and above all Christianity, among its wretched inhabitants. This plan appears to me to be better adapted than any other which has yet been attempted, for two great purposes — first, for the final suppression of the slave trade — that monstrous and intolerable scourge of our race — and secondly, for the raising of Africa to a participapation in all those rich temporal and spiritual blessings, which we are ourselves enjoying. When the African princes are practically instructed in the utter impolicy and folly of the present system, they will no longer bring human creatures to the market, instead of the produce of human labor. They will soon discover that their desire for articles produced or manufactured in Europe, can be gratified to an almost infinitely greater extent than it is at present, by their availing themselves at home of the capabilities of their soil, and of the well rewarded industry of the population. And as the people themselves come to understand the benefits of com merce, agriculture, education, and religion, they will soon present

purposes of trade, colonization, and Christian missions. The following paragraph, in the prospectus, explains the views of its founders. " The present Society can take part in no plan of Colonization or of Trade. Its objects are and must be exclusively pacific and benevolent ; but it may by encouragement, and by the diffusion of information, most materially aid in the civilization of Africa, and so pave the way for the successful exertions of others, whether they be directed to colonization and the cultivation of the soil, or to commercial intercourse, or to that which is immeasurably superior to them all, the establishment of the Christian faith on the continent of Africa." As long as the Society in question maintains this simple and unexceptionable ground, so long, (in my opinion) its claims on the support of Christians of every denomination, are clear and unquestionable. _

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a firm moral phalanx against the aggressions of a shameless cupidity abroad, and a reckless violence in their own country.

The plan truly is comprehensive, and the work indefinitely large, nor can we conceal from ourselves, that the obstructions to it are at once numerous and formidable. But we must enter upon that work and pursue it, in simple dependence on our Father who is in heaven. " Of one blood" has he made " all nations ;" and on all men has he bestowed those equal and inalienable rights — " life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness." Doubtless the time will come when these rights shall be universally acknowledged ; and when justice, mercy, and peace shall triumph over all their enemies. Till then we must not cease to labor in the cause of the oppressed, and to remember them in our humble and fervent petitions, when we are enabled to draw near to the throne of grace.

Before I leave this subject, there is one point which requires to be mentioned. I am glad to observe, that the motto of the African Civilization Society, with regard to commerce, is Free Trade, and with regard to agriculture, Free Labor. The prevalence, in Africa, of domestic slavery, is a circumstance greatly to be deplored ; and it will not only become our duty to present to the attention of her people, on her own territory, patterns of free agriculture, and visible proofs of its advantage ; but in our communications with persons of influence on that continent, we must never forget to direct our advices and remonstrances against slavery, as well as against the slave trade. We have the two objects before us of developing the resources of the soil of Africa, and of raising the native mind. Were we to pursue the former object alone, though the exportation of the African would be prevented, his bonds at home might, in many cases, be strengthened. But if the raising of the native mind be kept steadily in view — if it be faithfully pursued in all our transactions — I fully believe that the society will work well for the discouragement and

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final extinction not only of the African slave trade, but of African domestic slavery. At the same time, I rejoice in the existence of a sister institution, which occupies itself with the simple and comprehensive object of promoting the abolition of slavery throughout the world. As it relates to the slave trade, this institution aims at undermining it, by destroying the market for slaves in the Western world — an attempt which perfectly harmonizes with the corresponding endeavor, to cut off the supply of slaves, by improving and civilizing Africa. Neither operation can, in my opinion, be spared — both ought to be strenuously supported. For ray own part, I am prepared heartily to unite with the African Civilization Socielp, in its admirable plans for the benefit of that continent ; and equally so with the British and Foreign Anti-slavery Society^ in its enlarged efforts against the curse of slavery, under whatsoever circumstances, and in whatsoever part of the world, that curse may be found.

The following letters, addressed to Henry Clay of Kentucky, were carried through the press before I left America. On our return from the West Indies to the United States, my companions and myself spent ten days in the city of Washington, while Congress was in Session. We found no difficulty in obtaining private interviews with the President, the Secretaries of the different departments of government, and many of the most influential members of Congress of both parties. To these gentlemen we related the principal particulars of our West Indian tour, and stated the evidence with which we had been furnished, of the beneficial working of freedom among the negroes of the West Indies, in a pecuniary, civil, and moral point of view. Our narration was listened to with great attention, and by no individual more so than by Henry Clay of Kentucky. Notwithstanding the conspicuous part which that statesman has of late years taken in defence of the slavery of the United States, we had abundant proof, that his mind is not steeled against a lively feeling of

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interest in the cause of emancipation, and we have a strong hope, that the practical views developed in the present volume will ere long be embraced by him, in reference to the slave states of North America. In the mean time, as it was my object to convince the more reasonable of the pro-slavery party, I believed it best to address my letters to a gentleman who is generally regarded as belonging to that class. In making this selection I had of course no reference to the side which he is known to take in the politics of the United States. It was my wish to interest persons of all political parties in America, in the same great cause of sound policy, justice, and humanity.

Perhaps I ought to make some apology, for the familiar style in which the letters are written. I have given a simple account of our tour, and of the incidents which befel us, and I have added descriptions of the peculiar scenery we met with, both in verse and prose — I am ready to hope, that these lighter parts of the work may serve to amuse the younger class of my readers on both sides the Atlantic, and lead them on to the consideration of those graver points, so deeply important in the present day, which it is my principal purpose to develop and impress. For my own part, I consider it to be greatly to our advantage, while we are engaged in the pursuit of serious and interesting objects, to catch the passing recreation afforded us by birds, flowers, blue skies, and bright sunsets. It is a trite saying that the bow which is always bent, must break at last. Be that as it may, my narrative, such as it is, is just a transcript of the reality.

One more point in relation to mode of writing seems to claim a few remarks. While it is undoubtedly our christian duty to avoid the least concession of principle on the subject of slavery, the use of harsh epithets and violent language towards the slaveholders, is not only objectionable in itself, but has often had an injurious effect in arming them against our arguments, and of thus hindering the progress of our cause. I have therefore thought

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it best to observe towards them the terms and usages of christian courtesy ; and I believe there are many of these persons in the United States, who are increasingly disposed to enter upon a fair consideration of the subject. If such individuals are wisely dealt with, by the friends of the slave, they can hardly fail to arrive at conclusions, which will finally entail upon them the moral necessity of openly supporting the cause of emancipation.

At the same time, it ought never for a moment to be forgotten that the holding of our fellow-men, as property — liable to be bought and sold like other goods and chattels — is in its own nature a sinful and unlawful practice ; and further, that slavery in the United States is aggravated by certain features of a peculiarly revolting character. I need only remind thee, under this head, of the practice of slave-breeding, and of the extensive and shameless internal traffic in human beings, with which it is connected.

But it may be asked, what are my objects in republishing, in this country, a book which is specifically intended to bear on the people of the United States? My answer to this question is as follows — First, I conceive that the British public is increasingly alive to a feeling of interest, in the peculiar condition of the question of slavery amongst our brethren in America. There are features in the political constitution of that country, which throw many difficulties in the way of abolition ; but as the principal inhabitants of the several independent slave states are brought to a conviction, that free labor will answer their purpose better than the compulsory work of slaves, these difficulties will all be surmounted. In the principles and progress of such a work, the British public cannot fail to be interested. In the second place, the practical details of the working of freedom in our West Indian colonies, must of course be as interesting to the friends of humanity in our own country, as to those in America.

PREFATORY LFTTER.

But lastly, in making this republication, I have one peculiar object in view — an object which I deem to be of the highest practical importance to the future prosperity of the cause of freedom, and especially to thy own plan for the extinction of the slave trade — I mean the maintenance of the present prohibitory duties on slave grown coffee and sugar. If under the difficulties of the present crisis, as it regards the quantity and price of these articles, the duties in question should be relaxed or extinguished, a market of immense magnitude would immediately be opened for the produce of the slave labor of the Brazils, Cuba, and Porto Rico. The consequence would be, that ruin would soon overtake the planters of our West Indian colonies, and our free negroes would be deprived of their principal means of obtaining an honorable and comfortable livelihood ; but far more extensive, far more deplorable, would be the effect of such a change, on the millions of Africa. A vast new impulse would be given to slave labor, and therefore to the slave trade ; and both the number and energy of those who delight to prey on the vitals of Africa, would be indefinitely increased.

True indeed it is that the high price of sugar is an inconvenience of no small magnitude to the population of Great Britain and Ireland ; and if that price should be still somewhat increased, the inconvenience will be more severely felt than it is at present. But the following letters contain, I trust, some clear and indisputable evidences that these difficulties are in their nature temporary. The present diminished produce of sugar and coffee in the West Indies, is the result of that unsettlement which took place immediately after the date of full freedom. — Nor can it be denied, that this unsettlement, in Jamaica especially, has been connected with unfair and impolitic attempts to compel the labor of free men. The desertion of estates, occasioned by these attempts, has given rise to a corresponding diminution of the crops.

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It is certain however, that a better understanding between the parties concerned, has already taken place to a great extent ; and there can be no question that the foundation is now laid, in many of our West Indian colonies, including Jamaica, of an increased production of their staple articles. The drought which has latelv taken place in that island, must indeed have an unfavorable bearing on the question. But this is a circumstance which has no connection with the subject of labor, and which, as we hope, another year may fully remedy. Give a little time to the working of freedom in these interesting colonies — exercise patience for a year or two, while the seeds of prosperity are developing themselves, under the influence of liberty — and free grown sugar and coffee will, as I believe, be poured, in ample abundance, into the British market. In Antigua, where full freedom is six years old, the production of sugar has been almost doubled. If the genuine operation of freedom is not restricted in Jamaica, I feel a strong hope that it will, before very long, be nearly doubled in that colony also.

In the mean time, I cannot but be deeply sensible of the importance of a faithful endeavor on the part of abolitionists to promote, by their influence over the emancipated negroes, a steady attention to the cultivation of the staple articles of these and other islands. The negroes in Jamaica, and the friends who instruct them and maintain their cause, have undoubtedly been exposed to more than a few provocations. But let them not be tempted by such circumstances, to harbor any hostile feelings towards the planters — let them rather endeavor to maintain that christian forbearance which wins its way infinitely better than violence and revenge. In the mean time, for the sake of the slaves in the Brazils, in Cuba, and in Porto Rico, and far above all, for the safety of untold multitudes in benighted Africa — let them direct their energies to the extension of the cultivation of sugar and coffee. I dwell on these articles not for the purpose

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of excluding other beneficial pursuits of agriculture, but simply because, under the present exigencies, the increased production of them is of obvious and peculiar importance to the cause of justice and humanity. The luxury of sugar and coffee will thus become cheap ; the clamor now existing on the subject will cease ; and in the course of a few years, these and other articles will be produced by free labor, both in the West and East Indies — not to mention Africa herself — in such abundance, and at so reasonable a price, that similar slave grown produce will be driven from every market, even without the aid of prohibitory duties.

I am thy affectionate brother,

J. J. GURNEY.

FAMILIAR LETTERS.

Letter I. Voyage From New York, And Entrance On The Tropics

Flushings L. I. Sixth month (June) \st^ 1840.

I seize the first day of leisure that has fallen to my lot, since I left Washington, in order to commence a narrative of my late tour in the West Indies ; and I gladly avail myself of thy obliging permission, in addressing a series of letters, on the subject, to Henry Clay of Kentucky. Sure I am that the present state of the West India Islands, in a pecuniary, political, and moral point of view, cannot be a matter of indifference to any American statesman. I know that thy feelings of interest in the great experiment which is now developing its results, in that part of the world, are deep and lively ; and I venture to believe that thou wilt give no severe reception to the familiar incidents — the trifling descriptions, whether in verse or prose — with which my story may probably be interwoven.

B

'i VOYAGE FROM NEW YORK.

1 must however premise, that I undertook this journey, neither in pursuit of pleasure, nor for the specific purpose of ascertaining the eifects of emancipation ; much less as the agent or representative of any body of philanthropists, either in England or America ; but in the character of a minister of the gospel. My primary object was to preach the glad tidings of peace and salvation to my fellow men, and from persons of every class, condition, and party in the West Indies, I have met with a cordial welcome, and the kindest attentions.

In company with Mahlon Day, a highly respectable citizen of New York, and a young friend who kindly undertook to act as our attendant and helper, I sailed from that city on the 22nd of last Eleventh month, (Nov.) in the Camilla, Captain Watlington. Our ship's company consisted of about twenty individuals, (mostly in search of a warmer climate and better health) who had taken their passage, in this accommodating little ship, for Santa Cruz. The fine but cold, frosty day, on which we left your shores, gave them a sufficient warning, that the season was at hand, when the rigor of a North American winter would become dangerous. At the same time, it afforded such of us as were in good health, a delightful opportunity — as we swept along under fiill sail — of observing, under the brightest aspect, the rare beauty of the harbor of New York, the bay, and the neighboring islands.

We had not continued our voyage more than three days, before we found ourselves in a genial climate. The thermometer stood at 70, and light clothing

VOYAGE FROM NEW YORK. *S

gradually came into requisition. The change seemed almost magical, and certainly it was no small luxury thus insensibly to glide into warmth, and as it were, to catch summer again by the skirts. We were now crossing " the Gulph Stream," where it is said to have a breadth of two hundred and fifty miles, and the temperature of the air was probably heightened by the heat of the waves below. To account for this enormous current of warm water, which runs up from the Gulph of Mexico, in a north-easterly direction, to so great a distance, is nearly impossible. What the causes are which occasion the magnitude of the current, and the heat of the water, seems to be mere matter of conjecture ; but its beneficial effect in melting the ice, and unlocking the harbors, of North America, affords one evidence among ten thousand, that even the wildest sports of nature are subservient to good and wise purposes, in the order of a benevolent Providence. Boisterous weather and a strong adverse gale, were our portion as we crossed " the Gulph." The foaming waves, with tops of a light transpcirent blue, rose to an unusual height, and were in beautiful contrast with the troughs below, of a deep dull lead color.

Camilla, whilom swift of wing,

Can now no longer fly.

In vain her gallant sailors sing ;

She faints and longs to die.

The waves o'er which she loved to dance,

Now horrid in her eye, In awful alpine forms advance.

And curl their snows on high.

O, were it not for sore affright.

They might have charmed her view,

B 2

Dappled and marbled o'er with white.

And tipped with azure blue.

But the vales and pits that yawn below

Are dull and dark as lead ; They bid her every hope forego —

Fit chambers for the dead !

Now quail no more, thou blithesome maid,

Beneath the howling blast, Sunshine alternates still with shade.

Such fury cannot last.

Thy guardian sylphs shall soon prevail,

To di-y those tears of sorrow, A smiling sky, a favoring gale.

Await thee for the morrow.

This prediction was verified ; for on the following day, the wind was favorable, the weather fair, the sea of the finest ultramarine blue, and nothing could be more delightful than our voyage. We were particularly pleased with our first sight of the flying fishes, which we observed scudding along with wonderful agility over the surface of the water. Our Captain assured us, that he had watched one which flew for the full distance of half a mile, before alighting. One of them winged its way on board our ship; and a more exquisitely beautiful creature I have seldom seen, about eight inches in length, his eye black, his back of the brightest dark blue, pure silver below, his wings fibred like a leaf and perfectly transparent. The creature bears not the touch of man — he quivered, and presently died, in my hand. At night the phosphoric illumination around the ship, as she flew before the wind, was extraordinary. Though there was no moon visible, one might easily have supposed that it was moonlight, and the waves sparkled, and almost blazed. The following lines are graphically true, without poetic licence.

The moon beneath the waters sleeps,

The stars are veiled with clouds, The vigorous breeze o'er Ocean sweeps,

Regardless of the gale, the storm,

Camilla flies ahead, And, lo, around her angel form . A mystic glare is spread.

The foam she dashes from her side,

Dispels the gloom of night, And seems diffusing far and wide,

A supernatural light.

The myriad sparks of liquid fire

Dance to the virgin's fame ; And the billows from her prow retire,

All flickering with flame.

As we found our way into the tropics, we observed that the atmosphere became clearer and clearer ; no mists were perceptible ; the sun seldom obscured, and the appearance of the sky and stars, at night, peculiarly bright and clear. The moon, in these latitudes, often assumes an almost vertical position ; and many of the stars which belong to the southern hemisphere, are visible. Before daylight one morning, the Captain called me upon deck to look at the southern cross, which is certainly a constellation of rare beauty. One of the five stars which form the cross, however, is of inferior magnitude, and not in the true position, which somcAvhat mars the image. When I turned towards the east, I enjoyed a still finer spectacle. The horn of an almost expiring moon; Venus, and Mars, were in all their splendor ; and the profusion of azure, lilac, ultramarine, peagreen, orange, and crimson, which mantled the sky, about half an hour before sun-rise, I never before saw equalled.

The sunset in these warm regions, is also remarkable for mellow beauty, but not, as I imagined, of a splendor equal to the sunrise. One evening, a "golden edged cloud" suggested a few lines of consolation to one of the ladies on board, who with much sorrow and anxiety, was nursing her interesting little boy, as he was sinking by degrees into the arms of death.

A dark cloud was skirting the edge of the sea,

A frown on the brow of the west, And nature was shrouded with sadness to me.

As she sank in the ocean to rest ; But the sun that was wrapped in that mantle of woe,

His radiance begins to unfold.

And the veil that was darkening the billows below.

Is fringed and embroidered with gold.

The scene is a signal for mental relief,

While it charms and refreshes the sight ; It bids me believe that the cloud of my grief,

Shall soon wear a border of light.

The gilding of hope, and the beaming of love.

Victorious o'er sorrows and fears.

Are heralds of mercy from heaven above.

To illumine this valley of tears.

No one needs to lack amusement during a voyage ; especially within the tropics ; — nature is constantly presenting objects of interest, and the sea, in its ever varying phases, is a sight which never tires. We were amused, one morning, by watching the motions of a great shark, called, from its known discernment and cunning, the " Sea lawyer." His broad head, agile body, and flopping green fins, with the numerous little myrmidon fishes which accompanied him on his journey, formed a striking spectacle. At another time, a dolphin followed our bait — a much more taper and active fish than I had imagined ; his fine blues and greens quite glittered through the waves. On a third occasion, the sea was seen sparkling with myriads of minute blue fishes, speckled with silver. The ^' Man-of-war birds," to all appearance black, with long wings and swallow tails, were often perceptible, soaring above us to a great height. I am told that they form a curious link between the albatross and sea eagle. Their gyrations resemble those of the latter bird ; and it is said that during the hurricanes which so often occur in the West Indies, in the autumn, these birds are seen rising, in great numbers, above the sphere of agitation, and enjoying themselves in the tranquillity of the skies above.