Fred Markham in Russia

Preface To The First Edition

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HEN all the world was flocking a few years ago to Russia, I went there also, and purposed to have a book descriptive of mv travels. On second thoughts, however, remembering that many erudite works have already appeared about the Empire of the Czar, I came to the conclusion that my young friends, whom it is my ambition to please, would prefer an account of the adventures of Cousin Giles and the Markhams, and I have therefore undertaken this publication. With few exceptions, I can corroborate all their descriptions from my own personal observations, and it will give me much satisfaction to find that the book is as welcome as the * Adventures of Neil D'Arcy/ * Peter the Whaler,' and other acquaintances who have entrusted their journals to my care.

Chapter I

A- Trip to Russia proposed — Cousin Giles and his History — Preparations for the Voyage— Journey to Hull — The Steamer described — The Voyage commenced — A Fog at Sea, . pp. 13-21

Chapter II

Cousin Giles finds an old Shipmate — Tom Pulling's Account of the Wreck of the Victoria — Miraculous Escape of Part of the Crew- God's merciful Providence displayed — Cousin Giles converses with the Crew — First Sight of Denmark, Elsinore, and its Castle — View of Copenhagen — Description of the Battle and its Cause — Sunday Service on board Ship — Voyage up the Baltic — The Gult of Finland— Cronstadt and its Batteries— Why the British did not take them — The Czar's Mode of Manning a Ship in a Horry — The Russian Fleet — Leave their Steamer and proceed towards St

Petersburg, pp. 22-40

Chapter III

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Distant View of St. Petersburg — How it is built — Enter the City of the Czar — Its Appearance at First Sight — Mount a Drosky — The Travellers reach their Hotel — Outline Sketch of St.

Petersburg — A Tour round the City — Its Palaces and Public Buildings, . . • , pp. 41-52

8 CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

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The Russian Passport System — Baron Verysoft— Mr. Tobias Evergreen — His Gratitude for the Baron's Politeness — The Difficulty of reading Russian — The Travellers at a Nonplus — Russian Signboard — Fred and Harry lose themselves — Meet with Tom Pulling — How Tom and his Messmates managed to find their Latitude and Longitude, and to steer a Right Course for Port, pp. 53-64

Chapter V

Bird's-eye View of St. Petersburg from the Tower of the Admiralty— The Isaac Church — Politeness of a Russian Officer — The Hermitage Palace — Portraits of the Czars — Magnificent Hall — Superb View from it — Jewels — Relics of Peter the Great — The Winter and other Palaces — Bridge of Boats — Exchange — Church of Peter Paul — Tombs of the Czars, pp. 65- 80

Chapter VI

Remarks from Fred's Note-book about St. Petersburg, and the Habits and Customs of the Russians, , . . . , pp. 81-95

Chapter VII

Journey to Moscow — Russian Railway — Passengers — Mr. Evergreen and his Hat-box — Refreshment Rooms — Scenes on the Road — Polite Spy — First View of Moscow — Unromantic Mode of entering it — Hotel Chollet — The Chinese City— The Kremlin — The Great Bazaar— Cathedral of St. Basil— The Holy Gate- Great Bell of Moscow — Tower of Ivan Veleki — Wonderful View from the Summit — The Tulip City, . . . . , pp. 96-117

Chapter VIII

Visit to the Imperial Palace in the Kremlin — The Granovitaya Palata — The Terema or Ancient Palace of the Czars — CathedraJ

CONTENTS. 9

of Uspensky Sabor — Rarity of Good Paintings in the Russian Churches — Public Discussions on Religion — Traps for the Utfwary — Procession of Russian Monks — New Church of St. Saviour — Preparations for the Coronation — Cathedral of St. Basil — Sealing up Doors of Shops at Night — Shopmen bowing to Saints— Bazaar— Chinese City — Russian Vehicles, pp. 118-135

Chapter IX

Departure of Exiles for Siberia — The Russian Howard — Vast Exercise House — Tartar Mosque— The Sparrow Hills— Burning of Moscow — Magnificent View of the City — Ennobling of Merchants — The Schoolmaster in Russia— Decay of the Old Nobility— The Donskoy Convent— Russian Monks— Their Interpreter — Palace of Petrofsky — Encampment near Moscow — Preparations for the Coronation Fete — Public Gardens — Zingari Singers, . . . ♦ * ... pp. 136-157

Chapter X

Journey in a Tarantasse — Monotony of Scenery — Description of Population in Russia — The Mujicks, or Peasants — Their Habitations and Mode of Life — The Religion of Russia — The Priests — The Landed Proprietors and their Habits and Characteristics — Civil Officers of Government — The Army, and its Organization — Russian Officers — A Breakdown — A Russian Inn — The City of Vladimir — Nishni-Novogorood — Its Great Fair — Addressed by a Stranger — His Mysterious Conduct, pp. 158-174

CHAPTER XL

The Stranger Merchant commences his Story— The Molokani— Origin of their Faith — Progress among the Villagers — How the Bible was prized by them — Its Distribution — Captain MartinefF— His Endurance of Persecution — Sad History — His Christian Fortitude — General Persecution of the Sect— Flight — Transported to a new District — Attempt to convert Captain Martineff, to CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Stefianoff Saveleft's Early History — Resolves to visit his Parents and his Betrothed — Commences his Journey — Meets Woodcutters — Takes Shelter in the Hut of old Sidor— Attacked by Fever — Compelled to fly — Pursued by Enemies — Concealed in a Cave, pp. 191-207

, CHAPTER XIII.

Fears for old Sidor's Safety — Continues Journey — Encounter with young Horse-drovers — Superstitions of Russia — Young Vacia— Sleeps in a Tree, pp. 208-219

Chapter XIV

A Russian Village — Danger of being discovered — Providential Warning — Flight — Approach to his Native Village — Horror on discovering his Home deserted — Encounter with old Soukhoroukof — Taken to his House — Account of his Parents — Aneouta carried away — His Agony — Encouraged to rouse himself — Plans for rescuing his Parents and Aneouta — Sets off again — Encounter with Zingari — Old Friends — A Bold Exploit — They offer to assist him — Plan arranged, ...,..,,, pp. 220-238

Chapter XV

Disguised as a Zingari — Start on the Expedition — Minetta's Fortune-" telling — Communicative Serfs — A tyrant Land-steward — Outbreak of Peasants — Dreadful Result — Old Scratchichna— Discovery of Aneouta — Their Flight — Stratagem of the Zingari Chief— Aneouta left in the Gipsy Encampment — Reaches the Volga — Voyage to Nishni— Conclusion of History — Cousin Giles promises to assist him, pp. 239-256

CONTENTS. ii

Chapter XVI

Cousin Giles meets an old Friend — Excursion into the Interior-^- Fine View on the Volga — Scenes on the Road — The Count's Estate — Welcomed with Bread and Salt — The Count's old-fashioned Mansion — A Fishing Excursion — Winter in Russia-^ Russian Stoves — Modes of keeping out Cold — Mode of Dressing in Winter — Result of a Snowless Winter, . . . pp. 257-268

Chapter XVII

Sports in Winter — Bear and Wolf Hunting — Story of the Miller and the Wolves — Other Tales about Wolves — Shooting Wolves from Sledges — Narrow Escape from a Wolf — Breaking up of the Ice on the Volga — Dreadful Sight of a Boat's Crew carried away with the Ice — Loss of an old Man on the Ice — The Russian Bath- Trial of Vocal Powers of two Musicians, . . . pp. 269-285

Chapter XVIII

Preparations for a Hunt — Ride to Cover — Account of an Insurrection of Peasants— Game breaks Cover — Fred and Harry lose their Way

— Chase a Stag — Desperate Encounter with a She-wolf — Harry's Bravery — Saved by Saveleff the Molokani — The Count promises to assist Saveleff— Return to Moscow, .... pp. 286-296

Chapter XIX

Letter from Fred Markham to his Mother — Entrance of the Czar into Moscow — Saveleff presents his Petition — Grand Review of Troops — Coronation of the Emperor — Fete at the Opera — State Balls— The Illumination— The People's Feast— The People's Ball — Fireworks — Character of Russians — Thieving Propensities — Russian's Aptitude for Commerce — Cucumber Water — Aqueduct of Moscow — Cursing Heretics — Blessing the Waters — Blessing Fruits — Christening Ceremony — High Mass in a Greek Church — Preparations for leaving Moscow — Last News of Save-

12 CONTENTS.

Chapter XX

Last Letter from Fred Markham to his Mother— Return to St Petersburg — Ceremony at the Kzan Church — Picnic into Finland —Visit to Peteroff— The Palace of the Czar— Villas of Peter the Great and Catherine — Beautiful Fountain — Leave St Petersburg — Cronstadt — Voyage down the Baltic— Copenhagen — Journey

. from Copenhagen to Hamburg — Conclusion, . • pp. 314-320

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

The Landing at St. Petersburg, . . . Frontispiece,

The English Sailors — The Drosky Driver, t . . 63

The Railway Station, ....«•. 103

Convicts on their way to Siberia, . ■ • • . 137

The Broken Tarantasse, ..*»••• 167

Saveleff and the old Peasant, •*.»». 227

The Villagers* Offerings, ••••»». 260

Fred and Harry attacked by the Wolf, » , , , 294 fl m

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FRED MARKHAM IN RUSSIA.

Chapter I

A Trip to Russia proposed— Cousin Giles and his History — Preparations for the Voyage— Journey to Hull— The Steamer described — The Voyage commenced — A Fog at Sea.

T

HANK you, thank you ; it will be very delightful,' said Fred Markham.

'It will be jolly, that it will!' exclaimed his younger brother Harry ; and home they ran as fast as their legs could carry them to find their father and mother. ,

' Oh, father, father ! — mother, mother ! — may we go ? may we go?' they exclaimed in a breath together. * Cousin Giles has asked us, and he says that he will take very good care of us, and that he is not joking; that he is in real earnest, and that, if you will give us leave to go, he wishes to set off immediately.'

1 But you have not told us , where you wish to go to, said Captain Markham. 'If it should chance to be to Timbuctoo, to the Sandwich Islands, or to the antipodes, I fear that I must refuse your request."

( Even should Cousin Giles be answerable for your id FRED MARKHAM IN R USSIA.

safe return, I could not part with you for so long a time as would be required to go to either of those regions of the world/ added their mother, smiling.

'But it is not to Timbuctoo, nor to the Sandwich Islands, nor to any place near so far off that Cousin Giles wants to take us,' replied Fred eagerly. 'It is only to Russia, and that is no distance at all, he says/

' Only to Russia ! ' exclaimed Captain Markham, with an emphasis on the only. * That country used to be thought a long way off from England in my younger days ; but railways and steamers have worked a great change in our notions of distances. We must, however, hear what Cousin Giles has to say before we decide on the subject.'

The lads had not to endure their uncertainty very long before Cousin Giles made his appearance, his somewhat weather-beaten countenance beaming with a glow of benevolence and vivacity which seldom forsook it Now it must be understood that Cousin Giles was not really the young Markhams' cousin, any more than he was that of several other families in the county who called him by the same affectionate name. He was a lieutenant in the navy, but, having received a severe wound in battle, which incapacitated him, he considered, from doing his duty properly, he retired from the service, though he ultimately recovered sufficiently to travel about without inconvenience. ■ As in the course of his professional career he had visited the sea-coasts of nearly every part of the world, besides taking journeys inland from them, while he made his observations on what he saw, he possessed a large fund of information. What was also of great consequence, he had a considerable talent for describing what he had seen. Besides possessing these qualifications, being the life and spirit of every juvenile party, and the promoter of all sports and pastimes in-doors and out of doors, he was a welcome guest, both with old and young, at every friend's house which he could find time to visit. More than all this, he was a religious, honourable, generoushearted man. He could not, therefore, fail to be a most desirable travelling companion for his young friends. He had been several times to sea with their father, who was himself a captain in the navy, and who had the greatest confidence in him.

1 What is all this, my dear fellow, the boys are saying about Russia ? ' asked Captain Markham as he entered the room.

'Why, that I have bethought me of paying a visit this summer to the land of the Czar ; that I want companions; that I like young ones, who will follow my ways better than old ones, who won't ; that I enjoy fresh ideas freshly expressed, and am tired of stale platitudes; in short, if you will entrust your youngsters to me, I will take charge of them, and point out what is mostly worth seeing and remembering at the places we visit

*I cannot refuse you, Fairman,' replied Captain Markham. 'You* offer is a very kind one, and the boys cannot fail to benefit by the excursion/

1 6 FRED MARKHAM IN R VSSIA,

'Do not talk about that/ said Cousin Giles, interrupting him. 'Fred must undertake to keep a log, and note down all our adventures.'

Fred, though somewhat diffident of his powers of composition, promised to do his best, and Mrs. Markham begged that Harry might keep another note-book for her especial edification.

'All I bargain for,' she added, 'is to have descriptions of scenes written down as soon as visited, and ideas as soon as they occur.'

' By all means, freshness is what we want/ said Cousin Giles. ' A short sketch made on the spot is worth a volume of after-recollections.

Thus the matter was speedily arranged. Before he left the house, their kind friend gave the young travellers a list of the things they would require. He would allow them only a small portmanteau apiece, which they could carry in their hands. He told them each to take a warm greatcoat, and a complete suit of waterproof clothing, including boots and hat 'Thus/ said he, 'you will be independent of the weather, and need never be kept in the house, however hard it may rain.' He told them that, although the weather is frequently much hotter during the summer in Russia than in England, yet that at times it is as rainy, and cold, and variable as at that season of the year at home. Their Bibles, a history of Russia, and a volume of travels in that country were the only books he would let them take, advising them thoroughly to

FRED MARKHAM IN RUCSIA. 1 7 master the contents of the history and travels before they reached St. Petersburg. He had got, he said, a good map of Russia, and a chart of the Baltic, which they were to study; as also a book called, What to Observe; or, The Travellers Remembrancer, which is not only full of useful information, but also turns a travellers attention to what is most worth remarking abroad. Fred Markham was about fifteen ; his brother, a year younger. Both of them were fine, intelligent lads. Cousin Giles was not far removed from fifty, thin and sinewy, though strongly built, and not tall, with large hard hands, which gave a warm, cordial grasp to a friend and a firm one to a rope ; his heart was like them as to size, but a great contrast to them in hardness — a more thorough-going, honest sailor never existed.

No merrier party ever left London than the three travellers who started by the mail train for Hull a few nights after the above conversation. They put up at the Railway Hotel, which Cousin Giles said reminded him of a Spanish palace. In the centre is a large court glazed over, with an ottoman instead of a fountain in the centre, and broad flights of stairs on either side leading to the upper chambers. The younger travellers had never before been in so large and comfortable a hotel. Their first care in the morning was to visit the steamer Ladoga, in which they had taken their passage to St. Petersburg. She was a gaily-painted, sharp-built, fast-looking screw.

'ghe'll carry us there quickly enough, if at all/ muttered Cousin Giles. 'But she's not the craft I should have chosen.'

She had only a small part of her cargo on board, and yet the master promised to sail on the following morning. The boys were incredulous.

'Modern cranes, system, and activity will work wonders/ said Cousin Giles ; and he was right

By nine o'clock the next morning the vessel was ready to sail. They spent the interim in walking about the docks, full of vessels of all nations, — sixteen steamers, they heard, ran between Hull and St. Petersburg, — in looking at the quaint old houses of the town, and in visiting the monument raised to, Wilberforce, — a lofty pillar, the first object which greets the mariner as he returns home. At the base is a simple inscription : 'Negro Emancipation, 1832.'

' How far more worthy was he of the pillar than mos*- people who have monuments raised to them ; and yet how he would have despised such an honour, unless it induces others to labour as he did for the benefit of their fellow creatures,' remarked Cousin Giles. 'Remember, my lads, this monument, and endeavour to walk in that great man's footsteps/

A lovely morning found the voyagers on board the Ladoga, and, after much pulling and hauling, clear of the docks, and steaming down the Humber.

Cousin Giles' face wore an expression of dissatisfaction as he found her deck crowded with huge, heavy iron machines and bales of cotton.

* This is nothing ; we are often obliged to carry twice as much deck cargo/ said the master. ' Competition is so great, we must do everything to make the vessel pay/

'Were a heavy gale to spring up, it is your underwriters would have to pay, I suspect/ answered. Cousin

Giles.

'Oh, you don't know what this vessel would go through/ replied the young master.

' Humph ! ' remarked the old lieutenant ; ' I know where she would go to if you did not heave all this deck lumber overboard.'

'I presume you have been to sea before? 'said the master.

' At times/ answered Cousin Giles quietly.

England sends large quantities of machinery of all sorts to Russia, The cotton had come from America to Liverpool, had been thence sent across the country by railway to Hull, and was going to supply numerous manufactories of cotton goods which have been established in Russia, and fostered by high protective duties. They are chiefly managed by Englishmen, and the foremen are mostly English or German. Manual labour is cheaper than in England, as is the expense of erecting the buildings ; but, as all other items cost much more, the Russians have to pay very dearly for the cotton goods they use. Even with the high duties imposed on them, they can buy English manufactures cheaoer than their own.

In addition to the cargo on deck, there were twelve fine horses which an English groom was taking over for a Russian nobleman, who was to figure at the approaching coronation of the Emperor. The Russians set great value on English horses, and employ a considerable number of English grooms, many of whom raise themselves to respectable situations, as had the man who had charge of the horses in question.

There were several other passengers, some of whom were English merchants who had resided in Russia for many years, and from them the friends gained a considerable amount of valuable information. This Cousin Giles had particularly the art of eliciting from his companions, and Fred and Harry had abundance to do in noting it down. The cabins and saloon were both comfortable and handsome. The latter was lined with mahogany, had gilt mouldings, and the sofas which surrounded it were covered with cool, clean, antibilious-looking chintz, while in the centre there was a sociable table, with a skylight overhead. Everything, also, was provided by the young master to conduce to the comfort of his passengers.

On the afternoon of the day they sailed, the sky looked wildish, and the master prognosticated either wind or heavy rain. A thunder-storm played at a distance round the ship ; the lightning flashed vividly, but scarcely a mutter of the clouds' artillery was heard ; some heavy showers fell, tjien the weather cleared up. The stars shone forth brightly from the deal

FRED MARKS AM IN RUSSIA. 21

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sky, and the- waning moon arose and shed her silvery light on the calm water, over which the breeze played with just sufficient strength to crisp it into silvery wavelets. It was a night for meditation and prayer. Unhappy is the state of man who can look forth from the deck of a ship on such a scene and not feel

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gratitude to the Framer of the magnificent firmament above him, — whom it does not make more meditative, more prayerful, than his wont, — whom it does not cause to think of eternity.

The next day a bright silvery fog hung over the sea, yet so dense that no eye could pierce the bowsprit's length through it. The engines were therefore put at half their power, yet even then the vessel went nearly seven knots through the water.

The lads were delighted with the smooth, easy way in which the vessel glided on. They remarked it to Cousin Giles.

'You think it is very pleasant, because you see no danger, my dear boys/ he answered. 'Much the same aspect does vice bear to the young, while they shrink with fear from the storm of adversity. Now,

" a wise seaman dreads a calm near a coast where there are currents, and a fog far more than heavy gales of wind in the open ocean." Put that down in your log, — it is worth remembering, as the lesson you have learned from a calm and a fog.'

Chapter II

Cousin Giles finds an old Shipmate — Tom Putting's Account of the Wreck of the Victoria— Miraculous Escape of Part of the Crew — God's merciful Providence displayed — Cousin Giles converses with the Crew — First Sight of Denmark, Elsinore, and its Castle — View of Copenhagen — Description of the Battle and its Cause — Sunday Service on board Ship — Voyage up the Baltic— The Gulf of Finland— Cronstadt and its Batteries— Why the British did not take them — The Czar's Mode of Manning a Ship in a Hurry— The Russian Fleet— Leave their Steamer and

proceed towards St. Petersburg.

OUSIN GILES soon found his way forward, over the bales of cotton and piles of hay, followed by Fred and Harry, and entered into conversation with the crew. He had not been long there when an old weather-beaten seaman put his head up the fore hatchway. <Ah! Tom Pulling. I thought that I had caught sight of the face of an old shipmate,' exclaimed Cousin Giles, stretching out his hand. 1 How fares it with you ? '

The old man's countenance brightened as he returned the grasp warmly.

'Is it you, indeed? I am glad to see you — that I am,' he answered. Tve a good berth now, though

IVe had knocking about enough since I sailed with you last in the Juno. I was. cast away in these very parts some time back, and never had a narrower chance of losing my life, so to speak.'

Cousin Giles asked old Tom how this had happened. The other seamen who were not on duty drew near to listen to the old man's oft-spun yarn, and our young friends stood by, eager to hear what he had got to say.

'Why, you see, sir/ he replied, * after I was discharged from the old Mclampus, I thought I'd try if a short-voyage steamer would suit me better than a man-of-war, seeing that I'd got a wife and family to look after; so I shipped on board the Victoria steamer, running from the port of Hull to St. Petersburg. It was our last voyage that year. About the 6th of November, I think, we left the Humber ; but

we hoped to get to Cronstadt and away again before the ice set in. The weather was as fair as could be wished for, and with smooth water; so we all made up our minds that we were going to have a quick run of it Howsomever, the wind breezed up a little on the second day, and by nightfall it blew pretty freshish, with a heavyish sea on. We had much the same sort of weather on the third day, and at night it came on so thick and dark that we could not see our hands held out before us. Still all seemed going on well. We supposed that we were steering a course through the Skaggerack, with a good offing from the land, when, just about the middle of the first watch, as the passengers were in the cabin, maybe thinking of turning in to their warm beds all snug, and talking of

what they would do next day at Copenhagen, where we were to touch r without an instant's warning — bang \ crash ! — loud shrieks and cries of terror were heard, the ship quivered from stem to stern as if her last moment was come. It was not far off, either ; the sea came roaring up abaft and made a clean sweep over her. She had struck heavily on a rock of some sort, that was certain; but where we were, or how it had happened, no one could tell. Every one was running here and there, crying for help, when there was no one to help them ; some took to praying, some to blaspheming; terror seemed to have taken away their senses. I did think that all of us had seen the sun rise for the last time, for it was too dark by far to allow us to try and help ourselves ; and, from the way the sea kept striking the ship, I knew full well she could not long hold together.

*

' Well, Mr. Fairman, I'm not ashamed to say I prayed as I never prayed before ; and, you'll believe me, sir, I felt a comfort and an assurance of my Maker's protection which also I had never felt before. As my ears caught the sound of the dreadful oaths of the blasphemers, I thought of the Day of Judgment. When that awful time comes, and the world breaks up like the ship, how will such men and many others, amid the clouds and thick darkness which will surround them,

FRED MARK II AM IN RUSSIA. 25

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be able to pray? No; they'll blaspheme on, as they are doing now, to the end. The captain, to do him but justice, behaved nobly. He did his best to keep order and discipline on board. He told the people that, if they would but remain by the ship, they all might be saved. He could not say, like St. Paul, they would be saved. Few listened to him; some, however, stayed by his side and promised to support him. They had been on their knees asking support for themselves ; whence only it can come, you know, sir. Others, on the contrary, got hold of one of the boats, and began to lower her into the water. The captain prayed and begged of them to desist, but they would not hearken to him. There were some of the crew and some of the passengers, and when he tried to prevent them they threatened to heave him overboard. At last they got the boat into the water, and eight of them jumped into her and shoved off from the ship's side. In an instant, as he had told them it would be, the boat was capsized, and all hands were thrown into the raging sea. One poor wretch had on a life-preserver — he thought, at all events, that he was all safe, and that he could not drown ; the rest had nothing to float them. For half a minute their cries were heard, and then they sank nearly all together, and his voice alone struck our ears, shrieking out for help, but no help

could be given him. He was striking out for the ship, I judged; sometimes by his voice he seemed to have got nearer, but that might have been my fancy; then a sea came rolling by, and drove him farther off again. It was very dreadful to hear that poor dying wretch, and not be able to help him. He was a strong man, and for long struggled on; nearly an hour perhaps passed, but his voice grew fainter and fainter, and at last was no longer heard