Wanderings in Arabia

Front matter

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Part One CHAPTER I THE HAJ, OR MECCA PILGRIMAGE

The Haj, or Mecca pilgrimage, in Damascus. The pilgrim camp in the wilderness at Muzeyrib. The setting forth. Hermon. The first station. The pilgrimage way, or Derb el-Haj. (After journeying three weeks through the plains of Moab, and through the land of Edom (Arabia Petraea), the pilgrimage comes to the plain of el-Héjr) ° Pp. 1-11

Chapter II Medain [the “cities” Of] Salih

Encamp at Med4in. Go to lodge in the kella. Few pilgrims see the monuments, Departure of the Haj for Medina. Beduins in the kella. Kellas seized by Beduins. The Moorish garrison. Haj Nejm. Mohammed Aly. Beduins mislike the Haj government. Violence of Mohammed Aly. Sheykh Motlog. The kella. Hejra of the old geographers. Fehjét. Emporium of the gold and frankincense road. Koran fable of the Thamudites. Frankincense found. A lost pilgrim derwish arrives. Beduin music. Miseries of the Haj. A lone derwish walked 600 miles to Maan from Mecca. The derwish found dead in the desert. The simdm (pestilent) wind. Mohammed’s religion, Their fanaticism fetched from Mecca. Islam can never be better. The Sheykh Zeyd. Blackness and whiteness. Kellas built by Christian masons, The monuments visited. The “maiden’s bower.” Kasr, Kella and Borj. The first inscription. The sculptured architecture. The hewn chamber, The Borj monuments. All the monuments are sepulchres, Thamfida people of “giant stature.” The smith’s ‘“‘house.” The smith and the maiden’s love tragically ended. KassQr Betheyny. The “cities” of Salih, Hid treasures. Arabia of our days a decayed land. The old oasisorcaravan city. Thebirds. Beyt Akhreymdt. The “Senate house.” The Nabatean letters forgotten in Mohammed’s time. Woodwork of the monuments, There is no marble found. : . . . Pp. 12-84

v vi CONTENTS

CHAPTER IIT MEDAIN SALIH AND THE INSORIPTIONS

The Diwdén. The Haj post. Beduins visit the kella. Cost of victualling and manning a kella. Syrian Kurds and Moorish tower guards. The desert tribes about el-Héjr. Return to Medéin. Violence of M. Aly. His excuses. Ladder-beam to scale the monuments. The epitaphs impressed. Rain in Arabia. The sculptured birds. Sculptured human masks. The Semitic East a land of sepulchres. The simple Mohammedan burial. “The sides of the pit” in Isaiah and Ezekiel. The Nabatean manner to bury. Contentious hareem corrected with the rod. > ° . . : : : : : . - Pp. 85-46

Appendices to Chap II]

{.—The Nabatean Inscriptions upon the Monuments discovered by Mr. Doughty at Meddin Salih, translated Zz M. Ernest Renan (Membre de

Il.—The Nabatean soulpraxed Arohitenbine. at Medéin Salih ; Note by M. le

Marquis de Vogiid, e . . ° * . . ‘ Pp. 55-57 CHAPTER IV

RETURN OF THE HAJ

The bitter night hours for the half-clad people lodging abroad. Small-pox in the ascending Haj. Locusts gathered for meat. Tolerance of the multitude : the Nasrany amongst them. Of his adventuring further into Arabia. An Ageyly of East Nejd. The Pilgrim caravans are as corrupt torrents flowing through the land of Arabia. The Haj arriving. The camp and market. The Persian mukowwem accused at Medina. The watering. A Beduin of Murra. M. Aly had been charged by the Pasha and the Sir-Amin for the Nasrany. The Pasha and officers dissuaded Zeyd. Algerian derwishes. Nejd mares. Departure with the Haj from Medéin Salih. Beduin vaunting. Few slaves from the African Continent are brought up in the Haj. Beduins stop their nostrils, A gentle derwish, Tidings of War. Saying of a Turkish officer. The Haj menzil. The military bone-setter. Giant derwish of the Medan. A meteor. Ageylies. The remove. Meeting with M. Said Pasha. Leave the Haj Caravan and enter the Beduin deserts, Zeyd’s words to the stranger. . te cae ue ire ee ee OOO

CONTENTS vii

OHAPTER V

THE NOMAD LIFE IN THE DESERT— THE FEJ{R BEDUINS

Camel milk. Come to Zeyd’s tent. Hirfa his wife. The réhla. Only women labour for the household. Precious water. The rabta. Camels fasting from water, and thriving in the fresh season. The Nomad year. The camp standing where they find pasture. More of the rahla. Alighting at anew camp. The Fukara encampment. Zeyd’s Aarab. The “building ”’ of Zeyd’s tent. Zeyd’s coffee-fire. The Sheykh’s coffee. fire. Aarab signifies with them ‘the people’. The Arabian nomad booth. The household stuff. God’s guests. Zeyd’s tale. The Turkish and English regarded as tribes. Zeyd’s marriages. Hirfa. Hirfa’s flight, Howeytét camel-brokers. The rafik. Hirfa led home again. The woman’s lot among them. An old wife of Zeyd. Nomad motherhood. An Asiatic woman’s superstition. Arabian men of a feminine aspect. Women praying. The Semitic opinion of womankind. Women veiled or unveiled. The woman and mother in the Hebrew law. Childbearing in the desert life... . ; ; 5 . A 0 5 . Pp. 70-91

CHAPTER VI LIFE IN THE WANDERING VILLAGE

Sand pools, Fantastic forms of wasting sand-rocks. Nomad topography The Beduins toil not, They are constrained to be robbers. Life in the worsted village. Nomads rise with the sun. The cup of coffee. The coffee company. The higher or inner seat about the hearth more honourable, Sybarites of the desert. Gallidns. Beduins given to coffee and tobacco. The Melis. Justice in the desert. Motlog the great sheykh. The sheukh are nobles. The Agid. Their fear of treading upon serpentsin the darkness. The Nasrany among the desert tribesmen. Vaccination. The second Abu Faris, The magnanimity of the desert. His good fortune among them. Inoculation. The medicine box opened. They use even unclean things in medicine. The haktmin Arabia. Their diseases. The Beduwy’smindisin hiseyes. Theirknavery. Physicians should be paid only upon their patients’ amendment. Hijabs. Metaab’s amulet, A spell against lead. Our evening fire. The sheykh’s mare, Reclining posture of these Asiatics. Floor-sitters and chair-sitters. The mare is a chargeable possession. The mare’s foster camel. Mereesy, Nomad milk supper. Orientalism not of the Aarab. The kassads. The nomad’s fantasy high and religious. The Beduin talk. Every tribe’s loghra. Their malice. The Semites cannot blaspheme divine things. Herdman’s grossness in the Semitic nature. Their malediction. Their oaths. Their magnanimity not to the death. Forms of conjuring protection and amnesty. ‘His beard’ said for the honour ofaman. The Arabs’ leave-taking is ungracious. 2 : : ‘ “ . » Pp, 92-112 vill

CONTENTS

CHAPTER VII

THE NOMADS IN THE DESERT; VISIT TO TEYMA

A formidable year for the Fukara. The tribe inthe North. Enigma of the

Nasrfany. The sdiehh or World’s Wanderer. Damascus the ‘ World’s Paradise’. The Nasrany, whether a treasure seeker, or aspy. ‘ Zhe Lord give victory to the Sooltdn.’ The horses of the Nasara are pack-horses. The Fejir reckoned a tribe of horsemen. They dread, hearing of our armed multitudes. The war in the Crimea. ‘The flesh of the Nas&ra better than theirs.’ How should the Nas&ara live, not having the date-tree in their land? The Nasara inhabit a land beyond seven floods. ‘ The stranger to the wolf.’ The Nasrany in land of the Beduw. They wondered that we carry no arms in our own country. The Lappish nomads and the Arctic dira. The land of the Nas&4ra very populous. Shooting stars fall upon the heads of the kuff4r. Art-Indian. The Nasrany’scamel wounded beyond cure. The ‘‘desert fiends.”” Nomad deposits inthe deserts. TheSolubbies. Precept of their patriarch. Their landcraft and hunting in which they surpass the Aarab. They want not. Journey for provisions to Teyma- The Beny-Kelb. Thegreen oasis in sight. The orchardtowers. Teyma, a colony of Shammar, very prosperous. Their wells are of the ancients. Teyma of the Jews (the Biblical Tema). The townspeople. The Nejd coffee-fire. The coffee-hall. The viol forbidden in the estates of Ibn Rashid. Rahyel, marriage of a Beduwy sheykh and atownswoman, The moon eclipsed. Ibn Rashid’s Resident. Stately carriage of the Shammar Princes. The slave trade. A building of old Teyma. Inscription. The Haddaj. The Sudny. Sleyman and the hareem of his housebold. An untimely grave. KasrZellam. Inscription with eyes. The evening company. ‘They blame the religion of the Nasaéra. Religion of the Messiah. A wedder of fifteen wives. The Mosaic commandments. The tribesmen depart from ga by night. The Fukara in fear of Ibn Rashid forsake their dira, ; . : é 5 - ° 5 » Pp. 118-185

CHAPTER VIII

THE FUKARA WANDERING AS FUGITIVES IN ANOTHER DIRA

The

Beduin camp by night without tents. Children with no clothing inthe cold. A forced march. They are little wearied by camel-riding. J. Birrd, Sunsetting glories in the desert. The milch cattle dry after the long journey. We encamp in the Bishr marches. A little herd-hoy missing. MJarhab’s hand-plant. Removing and encamping. Somo remains of ancient occupation. Trivet stones in the empty desert. Oattle paths over all. Visit to Abu Zeyd’s effigy. Desert creatures. The owl was a nomad wife seeking her lost child. Breakfast of dandelions. Hospitable herdsmen. Abu Zeyd and Alia his wife. We discover a ‘water of the rock.’ A plant of nightshade. Herding lasses. The

CONTENTS ix sheykhs’ mares. Rain toward, The Beduins encamped in the Neffd. Sounding sands. ‘The kahwat of the Nasara,’’ Whether tea be wine. Hirfa invited to tea. The wet mare. The Arabian horses mild as their nomad households. Horse-shoes. Firing a mare. Zeyd plays the Solubby. They look with curious admiration upon writing. Beduin traders come from Jauf. The Beduins weary of the destitute life of the desert. Their melancholy. Men and women dote upon tobacco. A tobacco seller. His malicious extortion moves Zeyd’sanger. ‘ For three things a man should not smoke tobacco’ (words of a Nomad maker of lays). The tribe is divided into two camps. The samhh plant. Wild bread in the wilderness. The Nasr&ny in danger of aserpent. ‘Readers’ of spells. The ligature unknown. One seeks medicine who had sucked the” poisoned wound of a serpent. Contentions among them. The Nomad sheykhs’ wise government. A tribesman wounded in astrife. Are the Fehjit Yahtd Kheybar? A fairwoman. Evening mirth at the tent fire, Some learn English words. Zeyd would give one of his wives in marriage to the Nasrany, his brother. Marriage in the desert. Herding maidens in the desert. The desert day till the evening. Desert land of high plains and mountain passages. The short spring refreshment of the desert year. The lambing time. The camels calve. The milch camel. Milk diet. The kinds of milk. The saurian Hamed sheykh of wild beasts. The jerboa. The wabbar. The wolf eaten by the Aarab, and the hyena. Thewildgoat. The gazelle. The antelope. Is the wothyhi the unicorn? Scorpions. The leopard. The wild cat. Buzzards, hawks, and eagles. - - . : ; ° ® - ‘Pp. 186-159

CHAPTER IX PEACE IN THE DESERT

Motlog arrives. The Ruwalla and Jellas. A sheykh of Teyma. The Hadda fallen. Ascribed to ‘the eye.’ Great ghrazzu of Bishr. Great counterriding of the W. Aly. Their meeting in the khdla. The young leaders tilt together. Pitiful submission of the W. Aly. Golden piety of the desert. Life forlife. “ Pillars” oflocusts. Locusteating. They would all see the book of pictures. The Nomads’ dogs. The greyhound. Human thieves called ‘dogs’. The children’s evening revels. The Arabian nomads use no manly games. Circumcision festival. The wilderness fainting in the sunny drought. Robbers. Our camels stolen. How might these robbers be known? The fortune of a Beduin tribe. The pursuit. Tribesman’s loss of stolen cattle made good out of the common contribution. The ghrazzu the destruction of the Aarab. A murrain. Zeyd’s fortune. Return of the pursuit. The tribesmen’s lack of public spirit. Motlog’s return from Hayil. Ibn Rashfd’s bounties. His taxes. The Fukara marching again to their home dira. JZ-Frudda Fugitive camels fled back 3850 miles to their own country. A Moahib foray cuts out and saves a few of our camels from the robbers (which were of B. Sékhr). Response of the B. Sékhr. Contention with Zeyd, x CONTENTS

A Beduin mother. Zeyd reconciled. How Beduins may attack the Haj Beduin “hour”. Zeyd would not have his son learn letters of a stranger. Many Arabic book and town words are unknown to the Nomads. Purchase of another camel. Years of the camel. ° . . Pp. 160-183

CHAPTER X TEYMA

Final departure from Med4in Salih, with the Aarab. An alarm at sunrising. Disaster of the Moahib. Journey towards Teyma. Watching for the new moon. The month of Lent begins. Teymain sight. Husbandmen, A distracted poor woman. An outlying grange. Ramathdn. The new ripening dates. Townsmen’s talk at our coffee-fire. A troubled morrow. A wayfaring man may break his fast. Hdsan. Ayjeyl. Visiting the sick. The custom of spitting upon sore eyes. Khdlaf sheykh of Teyma. Lenten breakfast after sunset. Lenten supper at midnight. Antique columns, A smith’s household. Teyma is three oases. A mare of the blood upon three legs. Fowling at Teyma. Migration of birds. The Nasrany observes not their fast. Méhsan pitched in a hauta or orchard of Teyma. A pastime of draughts. Women fasting. Méhsan’s impatience with his household. The autumn at hand. “El-Islam shall be saved by the Beduw.” Their opinion of the Christian fasting.

CHAPTER XI THE DATE HARVEST

Damsels to wed. Fair women. The people of Teyma untaught. Their levity noted by the Beduins, The well camels. Labourers at the ruined haddaj. Beduins swimming in the haddadj. Project to rebuild the haddaj. Ibn Rashid’s Resident. Ibn Rashid a Hékim el-Aarab. The Medina government cast their eyes upon Teyma. Unreasonable patients. Oasis ophthalmia, The Aarab friends are slow to further the Nasrany’s voyage. The Bishr at Teyma, An Heteymy sheykh. Dispute with Zeyd’s herdsman. Last evening at Teyma. Zeyd. 5 Pp, 204-216

OCHAPTER XII THE JEBEL

Depart from Teyma with Bishr. Journey eastward in the rain. Misshel the great sheykh makes and serves coffee. Women of Bishr. Ibn Mertaad, Hospitality of a sheykh in the wilderness. Come to Misshel’s tents. Misshel’s threats. Depart with a company for Hayil. A journey with thelfil riders. The Nasrany esteemed a Beduwy and a cattle thief, Arrive at tents by night. A Beduin who had served in the Ageyl. A

CONTENTS xi

Sbammar sheykh in the desert. He wishes well to the Engleysy. Nejd Arabia is nearly rainless. Questions and answers of the Beduw. Extreme fatigue of riding. An appearance of water. Askar’s counsel. Arrive at the first Shammar village. Mégug. Judgment given by the sheykh for the Nasrany. Their kahwa. A liberal-minded young scholar. An Irak Beduwy accuses the Nasrany. The Nejd speech. Depart for Hayil. Ria es-Self. A perilous meeting inthe rfa, Bishr and Shammar not good neighbours. View of the mountain landmark of Hayil. Gofar. Veiled Nejd women. Public hospitality at Gofar. Outlying Gofar in ruins. Desert plain before Hayil. Passengers by the way. Horsemen. Approaching Hayil. Beduin guile. Abd el-Aziz. Enter Hayil. The public place. The Kasr. Mufarrij. The public kahwa. The guest-hall or Mothif. The Prince’s secretary. The Nasrany brought before the Prince Ibn Rashid. The audience. A Mohammedan booktale of the Messiah. An unlucky reading. A seal. Walk in the Kasr plantation with Mohammed the Emir. Their deep wells of irrigation. The wothyhi. . : : : ; a= ete ey SE pak =248

CHAPTER XIII HAYIL

Evening with the Emir Hamfid. Abeyd’s kahwa. An apostate Jew. Hamfid’s sword. Hamid makes the Nasrany a supper. The “last prayers”. Mohammed and Hamid in the sight of the people. Evening with the Emir Mohammed. Idle persons follow the Nasriny in the streets. Ghranim. Abdullah. The Jew Moslem. A lost caravan. Jar Ullah. Aneybar ibn Rashid. Whiteness of the European skin taken for the white leprosy. ‘‘ Water of the grape.” Death in the coffee-cups of princes. The Méshed merchants. The Nasrany shows them a book of geography. Merchandise in Hayil. Ibn Rashid’s artillery. The Prince’s mejlis. A bribe at Hayil. The Emir’s leisure. His policy. His riding. Aarabin Hayil. The delidls. Thesfik. Price of flesh meat. Mufarrij; he bids the public guests. Swmm or simm—poison or bismillah. Cost of the Mothif. The Beduin coffee-drinkers in the public kahwa. The Emir Mohammed rides to visit his cattle in the desert. The Prince’s stud. The Prince’s wealth. The State Treasury, Hamid remains deputy in Hayil. A bédan or wild goat in Hamud’s orchard. Cost of an irrigation well at Hayil. Majid. Hayil is town rather than oasis. Sumra Hayil. The Ria Agda. Old Hayil. A ruined outlying quarter. The burial-ground. Abeyd’s grave. Certain resident nomads.

Pp. 244-268 CHAPTER XIV IPN RASHIiD’S TOWN

. Another audience. ‘The princely family of Ibn Rashid, Telalaslayer of himself. Metaab succeeded him. His nephews, Telal’s sons, conspire xii CONTENTS to kill him. Metaab dies by their shot. Bunder prince. Mohammed who fled to er-Ridth returns upon assurance of peace. He is again conductor of the Bagdad pilgrims: and returns to Hayil with the yearly convoy of temn for the public ~kitchen. Bunder rides forth with his brother Bedr and Hamfd to meet him. Mohammed slays (his nephew) Bunder. Hamifid’s speech to the people. Tragedies in the Castle. Mohammed’s speech in the Méshab. He sits down as Muhafath. Beder taken and slain. Mohammed slays the slayer. Hamfid’s nature. Mohammed the Emir is childless. His moderation and severity. The princely bounty. Ibn Rashid’s forays. He “weakens” the Aarab, The Shammar principality. Winter weather. An outrage in the coffee-hall. The coffee-server called before the Emir. . » Pp. 269-280

CHAPTER XV DEPART FROM HAYIL: JOURNEY TO KHEYBAR

The ‘ Persian pilgrimage.” Imbérak’s words. Town thieves. Jauf pilgrima in H4yil. Beduins on pilgrimage. The Oaravan to Mecca arrives from the North. An Italian hajjy in Hayil. Murderous dangers in Mecca, Concourse at Hayil. The Kheybar journey. Violent dealing of Imbdrak. Ibn Rashid’s passport.. Departure from Haéyil. Gofar. Seyadin Beduin pedlars. El-Kasr village. Biddia hamlet. Adventure in the desert, Eydda ibn Ajjueyn. Kasim ibn Bardk. Sdlih the rafik. “It is the angels.” The Wady er-Rummah, Ké4sim’s sister. Set forward again with Salih. The Nasrany abandoned at strange tents. The hospitable goodness of those nomads. Thaifullah. Set forth with Ghroceyb from the menzil of Hyfda. The Harrain sight. Heteym menzil in the Harra. Lineage of the Heteym. The lava-field. The division of waters of Northern Arabia. The dangerous passage. The great Harrat (Kheybar). El- Hayat, village. Cattle paths in the Harra. An alarm near Kheybar. Locusts. Ghroceyb in trouble of mind. ae Jellés. Kheybar village, The Hasn. An antique Mesjid. 5 ; ‘i 6 Pp. 281-309

Part Two CHAPTER I KHEYBAR “THE APOSTLE’S COUNTRY ”

The night at Kheybar. Abd el-Hady. Ahmed. The gunner’s belt. Kheybar by daylight: Medina soldiery, Muharram, Sirfir. The Nasrany brought before the village governor; Amm Mohammed en-Nejiimy, Aman. TheGallas. Evening in the soldiers’ kahwa. Ibrahim the kAdy. Hejaz Arabic. A worthy negro woman, Amm Mohammed’s house. Wadies of Kheybar. The Albanians. The Nasrfny accused. Friendship with Amm Mohammed. Our well labour; His hunting. Abdullah’s letter to the Governor of Medina, Abdullah’s tales. His tyranny at Kheybar. Sedition in the village. Abdullah’s stewardship. Dakhil the post. Aly, the religious sheykh, an enemy to death. The Nejimy’s warning to Abdullah, spoken in generous defence of the Nasrany. The ostrich both bird and camel. Amm Mohammed had saved other strangers. : : - : : - : : ; Pp. 311-334

CHAPTER II THE MEDINA LIFE AT KHEYBAR

Amm Mohammed’s Kurdish family. Hislifefrom his youth. Hisson Haseyn. He isa chider at home, Ahmed. A black fox. The Nejimy a perfect marksman. His marvellous eye-sight. The ignorances of his youth. A brother slain. His burning heart to avenge him. A Beduin marksman slain, by his shot, in an expedition. A running battle. He is wounded. Dakhil returns not at his time. The Nasrany’s life in doubt. Amm Mohammed’s good and Abdullah’s black heart, Dakhil arrives in the night. Atrocious words of Abdullah. “The Engleys are friends and not rebels to the Soolt4n.” Andalusia of the Arabs. An English letter tothe Pasha of Medina, Abdullah’s letter. Spitting of some account in their medicine. < : . F . . Pp, 835-347 xili

CONTENTS

Chapter III Galla-land. Medina Lore

The Abyssinian Empire. Galla-land. Perpetual warfare of (heathen) Gallas and (Christian) Abyssinians. A renegade Frank or Traveller at Mecca and Medina. Sdbia drink. A hospitable widow (at Tayif), “The Nasfra are the Sea’s offspring.” Wady Bishy. Muharram’s death. The Nasrfény accused. Sale of Muharram’s goods. Aly, the (deadly) enemy of the Nasrany. A Roman invasion of ancient Arabia. Aelius Gallus sent by Augustus, with an army, to occupy the riches of 4. Felix. The H4lhal. The Hirda. The Kheydbara abstain from certain meats. Another Ageyly’s death.—His grave ‘ violated by the witches.’

Chapter IV Deliverance From Kheybar

Amm Mohammed’s wild brother-in-law. The messenger arrives from Medina, The Nasrdny procures that the water is increased at Kheybar. Ayn er-Reyih. A letter from the Pasha of Medina. Violence of Abdullah. Might one forsake the name of his religion, foratime? Amm Mohammed would persuade the Nasrany to dwell with himat Kheybar. The Engleys in India. The Nasrany’s Arabic books are stolen by a Turkish Oolonel at Medina. Return of the camel-thief. The villagers of el-HAyat. Humanity loves not to be requited. Mutinous villagers beaten by Abdullah. Deyik esaidr. Departure from Kheybar. Hamed. Love and death. Amm Mohammed’s farewell. Journey over the Harra. Come to Heteym tents, Habara fowl. Stormy March wind, The Hejjir mountains. Eagles. Meet with Heteym. ‘The Nasara inhabit in a city closed with iron.’ Solubbies from near Mecca, The rafiks seeking for water. Certain deep and steyned wells “were made by the jan.” Blustering March weather. The Harra craters, ‘*God give that young man (Ibn Rashid) long life !”

Chapter V

DESERT JOURNEY TO HAYIL. THE NASRANY IS DRIVEN FROM THENCE

RyAda ibn Ajjiuéyn, seen again. Uncivil Heteym hosts. Ghroceyb. SAlih, again. Strife withtherafiks. A desolate nightinthekhala. Zél Come to tents and good entertainment. A rautha in the desert. Hunter’s

CONTENTS XV roast, The Tih, or phantom thelfil in the Sherarét country. EyAd, his person. Braitshén, aShammarSheykh. The first hamlet in J. Shammar, Another grange in the desert. ‘Between the dog and the wolf,’ The village el-Kasr. Tidings that the Emir is absent from H&yil. Beny Temin. Hayil in sight. Gofdr. Come to Hfyil, the second time. Aneybar left deputy for Ibn Hashfd in the town. The Nasr&ny is received with ill-will and fanaticism. Aneybar is now an adversary. A Medina Sherif in Hayil. The townspeople’s fanaticism in the morning ; a heavy hour. Depart, the second time, with trouble from Hayil. Oome again to Gofar, B, Temin and Shammar. . ° » Pp, 387-416

Chapter VI The Shammar And Harb Deserts In Nejd

Herding Supper of milk. A flight of cranes. An evil desert journey, and night, with treacherous rafiks. Aly of Gussa again. Braitshdén’s booths again. ‘Arabs love the smooth speaking.” Another evil journey. A menzil of Heteym ; and parting from the treacherous rafifks. Nomad thirst for tobacco. A beautiful Heteymwoman. Solubba. Maatukand Noweyr. “Nasara” passengers. Life of these Heteym. Burial of the Nasrany’s books. Journey to the Harb, eastward. Gazelles. Camel-milk bitter of wormwood. Heteym menzils. Come to Harb Aarab. False rumour of a foray of the Wahdby. El-Adf. AnHarbsheykh. An Harb bride. Mount again, and alight by night at tents. Motlog and Tollog. Comeanew to Ibn Nahal’stent. Ibn Nahal, a merchant Beduin. His wealth. A rich man rides in a ghrazzu, to steal one camel; and is slain. Tollog’s inhospitable ferij. Wander to another menzil. “Poor Aly.” An Ageyly descried. A new face. A tent of poor acquaintance.

Pp. 417-445 CHAPTER VII JOURNEY TO EL-KASiM : BOREYDA Beduin carriers. Set out with Hamed, a Shammary. .. Ayfin, Gassa

Watchtowers. Bare hospitality in el-Kasim. The deep sand-land and its inhabitants. Aspect of Boreyda. The town. The Emir’s hostel. The NasrAny is robbed in the court yard. Jeyber, the Emir’s officer. The Kasr Hajellan. Abdullah, the Emir’s brether. Boreyda citizens; the best are camel masters in the caravans, Old tragedies ofthe Emirs. The town. A troubled afternoon. Set out on the morrow for Aneyza.

xvi CONTENTS

Chapter VIII Aneyza

The Nefdd (of el-Kasim). Passage of the Wady er-Rummah. The Nasrany, forsaken by his rafik, finds hospitality; and enters Aneyza. Aspect of the town. The Emir Zémil. His uncle Aly, The townspeople Abdullah el-Khennéyny. His house and studies. Breakfast with Zamil. The Nasrany is put out of his doctor’s shop by the Emir Aly. A Zelot. Breakfast with el-Khenneyny. Hye diseases. Small-pox in the town. The streets of Aneyza. The homely and religious life of these citizens. Women are unseen. Abdullah el-Bessam. A dinner in his house. Nasir es-Smiry. The day in Aneyza. el-Khenneyny’s plantation. Hamed es- Sdfy, Abdullah Bessam, the younger, and Sheykh Jin Ayith. An old Ateyba Sheykh: Zelotism. The infirm and destitute. The Nasrany’s friends. ° * . ‘ a ‘ ° ° 8 - Pp. 466-492

Chapter IX Life In Aneyza

Rumours of warfare. A savage tiding from the North. The Meteyr Aarab, The ‘Ateybae A Kahtany arrested in the street. .A capital crime. Friday afternoon lecture. The Muttowwa. An inoculator and leech at Aneyza. The Nasrény without shelter. Arabian sale horses ; and the Northern or Gulf horses. El-‘Hyarieh. The Wady er-Rummah northward. Khdlid bin Walid. Owshazieh. Deadly strife of well-diggers. Ancient man in Arabia, The Nasrany is an outlaw among them.

Chapter X The Christian Stranger Driven From Aneyza; And Recalled

Yahya’s homestead. Beduins from the North. Rainless years and murrain, Picking and stealing in Aneyza. Handicrafts. Hurly-burly of fanatic women and children against the Nasrany. Violence of the Emir Aly, who sends away the stranger by night. Night journey in the Nefdd. The W. er-Rummah. Strife with the camel driver. Come to Khébra in the Nefid. The emiz’s kahwa, The emir’s blind father. Armed riders of Boreyda. Medicine seekers. The town. An ‘Aufy. The cameleer returns from Zamil; to convey the stranger again to Aneyza! Ride to

CONTENTS XVii el-Heldlieh. E)-Bfkerieh. Heldlieh oasis. Night journey in the Nefad. Alight at an outlying plantation of Aneyza (appointed for the residence of the Nasrany), Visit of Abdullah el-Khenneyny. _ Pp. 507-526

CHAPTER XI KAHTAN EXPELLED FROM EL-KASiM

+». Weli-waters of Aneyza. Well-driving and irrigation, Evenings in the orchard. The kinds of palms. Locusts. The Bosra caravan arrives. Violence of Ibrahim. Rasheyd visits his jeneyny. The hareem. The small-pox. Bereaved households, The Meteyr Aarab gather to Aneyza. Warfare of the town, with the Meteyr, against the (intruded) Kahtan. Morning onset of Meteyr. Zamil approaches. Final overthrow and flight of the Kahatin. Hayzan is slain. The Kaht&an camp in the power of Meteyr. A Moghrebby enthralled among those Kaht&n is set free. The Meteyr and the town return from the field. Beduin wives wailing for their dead. ‘When the Messiah comes wil! he bid us believe in Mohammed?’ The great sheykh of the Meteyr. The departure of the Mecca caravan is at hand. Hamed el-Yah}a, The NasrAny removes to the Khenneyny’s palm-ground. . : : : . Pp. 527-546

Chapter XII Set Out From El-kasim, With The Butter Caravan For Mecoa

Abdullah el-Khenneyny ;—a last farewell. Sleyman, a merchant-carrier in the k4fily. The camp at ‘Auhellan. The Emir el-kdjily. The setting out. Noon halt. Afternoon march. ‘The evening station. Er-Russ. The Aban mountains. Ibrahim, the emir. Simdm wind. The last desert villages. A watering, Beduin Rafiks. Are not these deserts watered by the monsoon rains? Analarm. Caravaners and Beduins, The landscape seyls to the W. er-Rummah, Camels and cameleers. ‘Afif, a well-station. Signs of hunters. Caravan paths to Mecca. Wady Jerrir Mountain landmarks, Thilm and Kdhl. Water tasting of alum. The Harrat el-Kisshub. Thirst in the caravan, Sleyman’s opinion of English shippers. A pleasant watering-place. Hl-Moy: cries in the evening menzil, Hr-Rukkaba. Beduins. Sh‘aara watering. Harrat ‘Ashtry Er-Ri‘a, Es-Seyl [KuRN EL-MenAzit]. Head of the W. el- Humth. New aspect of Arabia. The caravaners about to enter Mecca take the ihram. The Hathéyl. The ashraf descend from Mohammed. Arrive at the ‘Ayn (ez-Zeyma). Mecca is a city of the Yehima. The Nasrany leaves the Nejd caravan, at the station before Mecca; and is assailed by a nomad sherit : : : 5 : . Pp. 547-580 ia CONTENTS

Chapter XIII Tayif, The Sherif, Emir Of Mecca

Maabub and S&ilem. The Nasrany captive. Troubled day at the ‘Ayn. Night journey with Mecca caravaners. Return to es-Seyl. The Sey] station. The Nasrany assailed again. A Mecca personage. An unworthy Bessim. A former acquaintance. ‘Okatz. The path beyond to et-Tayif. Night journey. Alight at a sherif’s cottage near Tayif. Poor women of the blood of Mohammed. Aspect of et-Tayif. The town. The Nasrany is guest of a Turkish officer. Evening audience of the Sheriff. Sheriff Hasseyn, Emir of Mecca. The Shertf’s brother Abdillah. Salem brings again their booty, [Doughty sets out again; and reaches Jidda in safety. The end.] . . - . - «© Pp. 581-602

Short Glossary of Arabic Terms . G 5 : «+e Pp. 603-607 xr

Chapter I The Haj, Or Mecca Pilgrimage

A NEW voice hailed me of an old friend when, first returned from the Peninsula, I paced again in that long street of Damascus which is called Straight; and suddenly taking me wondering by the hand “Tell me (said he,) since thou art here again in the peace and assurance of Ullah, and _ whilst we walk, as in the former years, toward the new blossoming orchards, full of the sweet spring as the garden of God, what moved thee, or how couldst thou take such journeys into the fanatic Arabia?” _

It was at the latest hour, when in the same day, and after troubled days of endeavours, I had supposed it impossible. At first I had asked of the Waly, Governor of Syria, his licence to accompany the Haj caravan tc the distance of Medéin Salih. The Waly then privately questioned the British Consulate, an office which is of high regard in these countries. The Consul answered, that his was no charge in any such matter; he had as much regard of me, would I take such dangerous ways, as of his old hat. This was a man that, in time past, had proffered to show me a good turn in my travels, who now told me it was his duty to take no cognisance of my Arabian journey, lest he might hear any word of blame, if I miscarried. Thus by the Turkish officers it was understood that my life, forsaken by mine own Consulate, would not be required of them in this adventure. There is a merry saying of Sir Henry Wotton, for which he nearly lost his credit with his sovereign, “an ambassador is a man who is sent to lie abroad for his country ;” to this might be added, “a Consul is a man who is sent to play the Turk abroad, to his own countrymen.”