A voyage to Africa: including a narrative of an embassy to one of the interior kingdoms, in the year 1820; with remarks on the course and termination of the Niger, and other principal rivers in that country

Front matter

PERKINS LIBRARY

Duke University

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Dedication

pleased to extend it to me, merely from your knowledge of my services, from the communications which I have had the honour of addressing to Your Lordship, at different periods, during the last nine years.

Such an instance of Your Lordship’s indulgence and impartiality, will convince the world how ready you are to encourage every individual, whose conduct may appear to merit attention.

My gratitude, therefore, indulges itself in the honour of dedicating this small Volume to Your Lordship.

Introduction

It is neither my wish nor my intention to make the usual every-day apologies for publishing, although I am sensible how much I stand in need of them, and of that indulgence which I hope will be extended to this humble production, written not with the most distant view of establishing literary pretensions, but from the conviction that any observations made during a period of eleven years, and particularly on a journey into the interior of Africa, could not fail to be interesting. Notwithstanding that such is my conviction, I' should not have presumed to submit these observations to public inspection had I not been flattered by some respected friends into a belief that they were of sufficient importance to deserve publicity. Those scruples, therefore, which I at first entertaina

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INTRODUCTION.

ed, I was the more encouraged to overcome from the interest Mr. Henry Mackenzie took in reading an extract from some of my papers before the Royal Society of Edinburgh, and the consideration that I was performing a duty which every traveller owes to his country.

In claiming the indulgence of the Pteader for any inaccuracies I may have fallen into, I confidently rely upon that liberal sentiment so justly expressed in the Quarterly Review of October, 1816, in the following words : “ When we find “ Englishmen exposing themselves with ££ their eyes open to all the inconveniencies ££ and hardships of painful and perilous “ journies, to the effects of bad climates 4£ and pestilential diseases, not merely out “ of idle curiosity, but for the sake of see- ££ ing with their own eyes, hearing with ££ their own ears, and of obtaining that in- ££ formation, and receiving those impres- ££ sions, which books alone can never give, ££ we ought to be proud of this national ££ trait peculiarly characteristic, we believe, ££ of British youth ; and so far from visit- ££ ing their literary omissions with critical

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IX

“ severity, we should consider their com- “ munications entitled to every indul- “ gence.”

To this extract I shall only add, that, although an account of the former Mission to Ashantee is before the public, the particulars of this second mission to that country , it is hoped, may not be without interest ; but as Mr. Bowdich has entered very fully into the history and constitution, superstitions, and customs, &c. of the Ashantees, it would be superfluous in me to repeat what that gentleman has said upon these subjects. I shall therefore confine myself as much as possible to our proceedings at the capital, and to such facts as have come within my own observation ; and as they have been the result of several years’ experience, if it shall be considered that I have contributed in the smallest degree to the entertainment or information of the public, my utmost wish will be gratified.

My grateful acknowledgements are due to many respected friends for the assistance and encouragement I have received upon this occasion j and in particular to Sir Charles Mac Carthy, the Governor of

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Sierra Leone, Mr. Hutcheson, the Judge- Advocate for Scotland, and Mr. Henry Mackenzie of the Exchequer, whose works are so well known, and so universally admired.

London , 1 3th September , 1821,

( L/C ^ WM/s.

Bublishzd by Longman, Hurst, Rets, Orme. 8c Brown, 1-921 .

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VOYAGE TO AFRICA.

Chapter I

So much lias been written upon Africa, and upon the various travels in, and voyages to that country, it would be tedious and unnecessary to consume the time of the reader by a minute detail of all the trifling incidents which happened during four voyages to the Gold Coast. I shall, therefore, confine myself briefly to the principal occurrences.

We sailed from the Downs in the ship Brixtone, Capt. London, in July, 1816, with a fine breeze, and soon passed the South Foreland and Beachy Head, but

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as the wind became unfavourable, we did not see the Isle of Wight until the third day, nor the island of Guernsey until the fifth, when it bore S.W., Alderney at the same time bearing S.E. by E.

In the morning of the 4th of August, a pilot came on board, which afforded us the opportunity of going ashore in his boat ; and, on landing, we regaled ourselves at a farmer’s house with an excellent breakfast. During breakfast, horses were provided to convey us to the town of Guernsey, and we had a delightful ride of nearly five miles, having landed at a distant part of the island. Guernsey is a beautiful and romantic little island, abounding with the choicest fruits and the best wines ; but as the object of these pages is to describe more distant countries, I shall only add that we left that island on the 8th of August, after taking on board Captains Birch, Vaughan, Demon, and eight other officers of the African corps, with four ladies.

We now sailed with a breeze from the S.S.W., and in a few days we passed the Bay of Biscay, though not without expe-

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riencing a little rough weather, particularly off Cape Finisterre.

On the 22d, at daylight, we saw Porto Santo ; and on the 23d we anchored, after a tedious, though rather a pleasant passage, in Funchall Roads, for the purpose of taking on board several pipes of Madeira wine.

We had not been long at anchor before we went ashore, and it is perhaps time I should mention who my companions were. I have already mentioned the officers of the African corps, and four ladies, whom we took on board at Guernsey. My other companions were Messrs. Fountaine, Wetherall, Sutherland, Nelson, and Price, and Drs. Hall and Henley, with Mrs. Henley. Dr. Flail was going out to Goree, to join Major Peddie’s expedition, to explore the Niger ; and Dr. Henley was to join the staff at Sierra Leone.

On going ashore, we divided ourselves into two parties : one party dined at the British consul’s (Mr. Veiteh’s), and the other at Mr. Keir’s. Mr. Keir, however, was at that time in England, but Mr. Carpenter (to whom I take this opportunity of

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expressing my thanks for his hospitality and attention) made ample amends for Mr. Keir’s absence.

During our stay at Madeira, we put up at the British hotel, but we found a wide difference between this house and that which we left at Guernsey. Every thing here appeared dirty and uncomfortable ; the rooms large and unfurnished, and the people uncleanly and miserable. The town of Funchall is a wretched dirty hole ; the streets are narrow, but paved ; and the inhabitants (Portuguese) are, generally speaking, so filthy, that they destroy the vermin in their heads publicly in the streets. The market contains abundance of fruit and vegetables of all descriptions, and in particular the finest grapes and apricots ; of the latter I purchased nearly a hundred for a pistoreen (value 10c?.), and of the former I ate as many as I thought proper in the vineyards for 6d. As you walk through the vineyards, the grape-vines form a beautiful arbour, with large bunches of grapes clustering round your head as you pass.

The day after our arrival at Madeira, we rode up the mountains to the country-seat

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of Mr. Gordon, a noble mansion, most delightfully situated. The enchanting valleys and stupendous precipices, with waterfalls in different directions, added to the grandeur of the scenery. On our return, some of my companions, who were not very good horsemen, were obliged to dismount, and I believe I was the only person in company, besides Mr. Wetherall, who rode down the mountains. In riding out here, the man from whom you hire the horse attends it while you are riding, and holding the tail (which is long) in one hand, and a stick with a sharp nail in the top of it in the other, runs close behind, and occasionally pricking your horse, makes it rather unpleasant to a timid rider. To speak of the well-known salubrity of the climate, the wines that are produced here, the churches, the convents, and other interesting particulars, is not necessary, as they have already been so well described by a contemporary ; such descriptions are not the object of these pages ; and the observations I have presumed to offer have merely been made en passant.

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On the 25th, we returned on board, and sailed for Teneriffe. On the 27th we saw the peak, which is the highest land in this part of the world, and it is said can be seen in clear weather at the distance of 100 miles. It is situated in 28° 10' north, and 21° 10 west.

On the 26th we arrived at Port Oratavio, and anchored close to the shore, when the health-boat came alongside. As 1 did not go on shore, I am unable to give any description of this island, further than that it belongs to the Spaniards, who supply vessels with considerable quantities of wine ; and it will ever be remembered, that it was here the immortal Nelson unfortunately lost his eye.

Having taken on board fourteen pipes of wine, we sailed for Goree ; and being fortunately favoured with a strong northeast trade-wind, we passed Senegal on the 4th of September. The weather this day was unusually warm, the thermometer being as high as 85°. We had light airs of wind inclining to calms, and in consequence of not hauling more to the eastward off

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Senega], we were for some time unable to shape our course for Goree, the wind blowing directly off the shore. This wind, however, (from the E. S.E.) is very uncommon here, and only lasted a few hours, when it again shifted to the N. E., which enabled us to anchor within a mile of Goree on the following day.

Here we all went ashore, and paid our respects to the then governor, Major Mackenzie, and afterwards took up our quarters at the house of a Mrs. Martin, a fine Mulatto woman, who treated us with great hospitality and attention. In the evening, it blew a tornado, with considerable lightning, thunder, and rain, which lasted nearly two hours, a circumstance hardly ever known before, as tornadoes seldom last more than twenty minutes or half-an-hour. Considerable damage was done to the shipping ; some bowsprits and foremasts were carried away, and one or two vessels were driven on shore, and completely wrecked. The Brixtone drove from her anchorage, was thrown on her beam-ends, and lost her boat. The fort was struck with the lightning, and, in consequence,

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the flag-staff was split in pieces, and one of the bastions nearly destroyed ; hut no lives were lost.

Major Peddie was at Goree at the time of our arrival, and I had the pleasure of being introduced to him by Mr. Joseph Davies, His Majesty’s consul at the Cape de Verd Islands, and by this gentleman was recommended to the Major, as likely to answer his views, he having expressed a wish for a person to accompany the expedition to explore the Niger, in the capacity of secretary. Accordingly, as I offered my services, the Major was pleased to accept of them, and immediately advanced me 200/. to fit myself out for the journey ; and promised, on seeing Captain Campbell at Senegal, (where he was then going,) to send me a written document to pay me 300/. a year salary, and, in the event of my being so fortunate as to return, it was agreed that I should be recommended to Lord Bathurst, to receive the sum of 2000/. as a further reward for risking my life for the public good, should our exertions to discover the course and termination of the Niger be successful.

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With these prospects, therefore, I relinquished my appointment in the African Company’s service, and joined the expedition of Major Peddie, who, after leaving me at Goree three weeks, returned from Senegal, and requested me to accompany him thither, which I did. On our passage, we were both so tired of the boat, having experienced contrary winds for several days, that we at last proposed to the sailors to land us about forty miles from Senegal, which they agreed to do ; and, after being pretty well ducked and nearly drowned in the heavy surf, we got on shore in safety; but as we had no provisions or fresh water, we regretted having left the boat, particularly as night came on, when, being worn out with fatigue, we lay down on the open beach, quite exhausted for the want of refreshment. Fortunately I had with me a box-coat, which we spread on the beach, and this was all our bed. We had not, however, lain long, before we were agreeably disturbed by some Arabs passing with a herd of cattle, who kindly gave us a bottle of milk, which greatly refreshed us, and we once more re-

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tired to rest. During the night, as we did not sleep very soundly, we occasionally heard the roaring of the lion and the wolf, which infest this part of Africa, and are said to seek for food in company, like the shark and pilot fish. Lions are so common, that three and four at a time have been seen on the banks of the Senegal. For myself, I can say, that I only saw one during my stay here.

At daylight in the morning we proceeded on our journey, and passing the salt-pans, where the natives were making salt, we reached the outpost of Senegal, which is about seven miles distant, when we made the signal for two horses. In the mean time, we refreshed ourselves with some fried fish from the Senegal river, and might, if Major Peddie had thought proper, have had a comfortable breakfast at Colonel Brereton’s country-house, which was close at hand. As the Colonel happened then to be there for the benefit of his health, he politely sent his compliments, and requested our company; but as Major Peddie was not on very good terms

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with His Excellency, he declined the invitation.

Having waited about an hour for the horses, they arrived, and Major Peddie mounting one and I the other, we soon reached Senegal.

On the following day I was confined to my bed with a fever, from the exposure to the heavy dews on the preceding night, and did not recover for some days.

During our stay at Senegal, every preparation was made to forward our departure for the interior as early as possible. The Moors who visited Senegal, which they frequently did, with the finest horses for sale, were daily examined as to the best route to be pursued in getting to the Niger. Various were the routes recommended, but the one Major Peddie determined upon pursuing, was suggested by a Moor named Amadah Dhiob , who strongly recommended the route through the Foulah country, from Kakundy, in the Rio Nunez, on account of the safety in travelling, and because there are only the Kings of Foulah and Sego in the way to contend with.

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This man stated, that the north bank of the Niger was the best to travel on, the south bank being impeded by inlets; but he added, that there were no Moors on the south side. He also said, that the Moors leave the banks of the Niger during the rains, and recommended our going down this river after the commencement of the rains in June, when he said the negroes would be all we should have to contend with.

On questioning him respecting the unfortunate Parke, he said that a chief of the Moors beyond Sego, named Boordaau , killed him. The only difference between this man’s account of the price of articles on the Niger, and that given by Parke, was as to the value of dollars, which he stated to be 2000 couries for each dollar.

Another Moor, named Bonama , stated that either side of the Niger might be travelled in safety. This man spoke of libraries at Timbuctoo, and of salt being obtained in the desert three feet below the surface of the earth. He also added, that caravans travel during the rains, and at all times, between Timbuctoo and Morocco. The other Moors gave similar inform-

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ation ; but I was much inclined to suspect Amadah Dhiob’s earnest recommendations on this subject. Jackson, indeed, in his account of Morocco, says, that any person acquainted with these people will believe the reverse of what they advise, and from tlieir ill treatment of the unfortunate Parke, and the dread he appeared to have in meeting them upon all occasions, I have always had a bad opinion of their character, which my late acquaintance with them at Ashantee has not at all tended to remove.

The number of horses purchased by Major Peddie amounted nearly to fifty, and the asses to a hundred, besides several camels ; the officers and men exceeded a hundred ; and the property purchased for the use of the expedition, the presents, and all expenses, could not have cost less than 50,000/. ; so that the little good (if any) which has resulted from this expedition, must plainly show the bad policy of fitting out such large and expensive missions to explore Africa ; for what Chief would let such a formidable expedition pass through his territory ? The

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King of Ashantee, and all the African chiefs that I have ever been acquainted with, would object to it from the fear alone of such a strong party joining their enemies. It was, therefore, not at all to be wondered at that the kino; of the Foulahs would not allow the expedition to pass through his territory. Besides, Major Peddie did a very impolitic thing at Senegal, in trying in public how the horses would carry the two field-pieces, which were intended for the boats after getting to the Niger, as the Moors who were at Senegal, must have noticed it, and, it was most probable, would send word of the fact to the king of Sego and other chiefs in the interior. But as the fate and particulars of this expedition were long ago known, I shall only add that Major Peddie lost his life at Kakundy, in the Bio Nunez ; and Captain Campbell, who succeeded him in the command, advanced into the Foulali country, where his haughty conduct obstructed his further progress, and constrained him, amidst a thousand difficulties, to retrace his steps to Kakundy, where the fever prevented the execution of a plot formed by his

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soldiers to assassinate him. Lieutenant Stokoe, of the Inconstant frigate, then succeeded to the command ; and there was a gentleman of the name of Dochard, a surgeon, who was the next officer to Stokoe, and who, I believe, is now in England ; but what became of Lieutenant Stokoe I have never heard. Upon the subject of this expedition, experience has convinced me that such formidable missions will never succeed in exploring Africa, as the natives are too jealous and too much alarmed at such a force. My humble opinion is, that we must either have no appearance of force at all, or else such a force as will surmount every obstacle.

But I now come to the painful task of explaining the cause of my leaving Major Peddie — painful only because, as that gentleman is dead, a delicacy obliges me to withhold certain facts, which I should not hesitate to state were he alive ; and,

Major Peddie, I believe, was a most liberal-minded man ; and had he not been, in a great measure, controlled by Captain

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Campbell, nothing but his death would have separated us ; but it is a duty which I owe to myself, to state the fact which caused our separation, and which I cannot do better, than in the words of my affidavit, made before the Governor of Cape Coast Castle, on the 17th of February, 1817, a copy of which was laid before Lord Bathurst shortly after. The following is an extract from that document:

“ About a month after the deponent’s “ verbal agreement with Major Peddie, as “ particularly applicable to the 2000/. which “ he was to receive in the event of his re- <c turn from the interior of Africa, this “ deponent (being then at Senegal in the “ execution of his office as secretary, and “ on the eve of departure for the interior), “ again called on Major Peddie for his sig- “ nature to the agreement, in the same “ words as were previously submitted to “ him at Goree, and specifying the precise “ sums before mentioned and approved ; “ whereupon the said Major Peddie de- “ dared there was no such sum as 2000/. “ mentioned ; and after much conversation u on both sides, and a meeting on the sub-

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44 ject tlie next day, lie, the said Major 44 Peddie, suggested the propriety of the c< deponent giving up the idea of accompa- 44 nying him on the expedition, pledging 44 himself, —

44 To get the deponent restored to his 44 rank in the African Company’s service :

44 To pay his passage from Senegal to 44 Cape Coast :

44 To write a letter to Governor Dawson, 44 at Cape Coast, exonerating the deponent 44 from all blame :

44 And as to the money which had been 44 advanced to this deponent for his outfit, 44 it was agreed that nothing; should be said 44 upon the subject, such sum being con- 44 sidered an equivalent for the deponent’s 44 detention and loss of time : which terms 44 and conditions the deponent declared 44 himself satisfied with ; and, a few days 44 after, the deponent left Senegal (hav- 44 ing received the permission of Major 44 Peddie so to do, by letter bearing date 44 29th October, 1816), and arrived at Cape 44 Coast on or about the 19th of January 44 following. But in consequence of such

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“ detention as aforesaid, the deponent “ had been placed at the bottom of the “ Rank List in the African Company’s <e service.”

It is here, however, proper to observe, that although the Governor and Council most unjustly placed me at the bottom of the Rank List, the African Committee ordered me to be restored to my former rank in the service, and approved of my conduct, as will appear from the following extract from their dispatches.

“ We observe by Mr. William Hutton’s “ letter to Mr. Dawson, of the 25th

September, that, at the solicitation of “ Major Peddie, he had agreed to accom- “ pany that gentleman, in the capacity of “ secretary, on his interesting mission into “ the Interior ; and though we applaud “ his conduct therein, we cannot, consist- “ ently with the rules of the service, per- “ mit him to retain either his rank or pay, “ until he shall arrive at Cape Coast Castle, “ and enter upon his duty.”

Having then explained, as briefly as possible, the cause of my leaving Major

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Peddie, (various autograph letters in support of which I could submit, were it necessary), I shall now say a few words of Senegal and Goree, and then proceed with my voyage to the Gold Coast.

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Chap. II

The island of Senegal, or St. Louis, lies in lat. 16° 3' N., and long. 16° 10' W., is well situated for trade, being only three weeks’ sail from England, and has many mercantile advantages, the most essential of which is its noble and commanding river, beingnavigable for small vessels, which may cross the bar, and load and unload close to the warehouses of the merchants, without the trouble and expence of boats or canoes. This river is about half a mile broad, and extends nearly north and south from its mouth for about seventy miles, when it takes an easterly direction. Its source has lately been determined by M. Mollien to be between the parallels of 10° and 11° N. lat., and 11° and 12° W. long, near Labbe and Timbo, from whence it takes a direction to the S. and afterwards W. and N. W,

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to the cataract of Felou, where it runs to the westward as far as Galem, which is a great trading place belonging to the French, who have a fort here, called St. Joseph, and is, at least, 600 miles from the entrance of the river. From Galem it runs nearly N. W. to Podor, another settlement, about three degrees from its mouth ; from Podor, it continues its course westward, to Serinpale, and from thence falls into the sea in 15° 56' N. and 16° 13' W., passing through an extent of country of nearly 1200 miles in the very centre of N. W. Africa. On entering this river* the bar or sand-bank, which extends across its mouth, causes a considerable agitation of the waves, and there is some little danger in crossing it, but accidents seldom occur. Several persons however have been lost here, and in particular a captain of the navy and one or two sailors were drowned about ten years ago. The land on both sides of the river, on entering, is low and sandy ; the western bank is a narrow neck of land which separates the river from the sea, and is called Barbary point. The town of Senegal is situ-

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ated eight miles north from the month of the river, and is about one mile and a half long, and two-thirds of a mile broad. It is one of the finest towns in this part of Africa ; but as the streets are not paved, the sand is sometimes unpleasant to the feet, the island being nothing but a sand-bank, which is completely surrounded by the river, affording amusement to those who are fond of aquatic and shooting excursions ; and there are many good horses, and a fine [piece of ground at the north point, where the inhabitants usually ride in the evening. There is also a good billiard-table ; and, when the English had possession of Senegal, there was no want of society. The houses are well built of stone, very commodious, and comfortable ; the streets are broad, cleanly, and well arranged, and the inhabitants are daily refreshed with land and sea breezes.

A considerable trade is carried on here in gum, which is collected in the forests from the Acacia-tree, and is conveyed on camels by the Moors to the marts, (called Escales,) which are situated on the bank of

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the river, some distance up the country. I have frequently seen pieces of gum as large as an ostrich egg, and quite transparent. Great quantities of hides, wax, elephants’ teeth, and other articles, are also exchanged for blue bafts and other cloths, which are exported from Europe, besides guns, powder, iron, lead, and various British manufactures ; bullocks, sheep, hogs, and poultry, are abundant ; horses, camels, and asses, are brought from the interior by the Moors. The vegetables and fruits usually found in tropical climates are daily sold in the market, besides eggs, milk, and millet, of which the Icons Icons is made : crabs, lobsters, mullet, soles, and various other fish are plentiful. Lions, wolves, tigers, elephants, and other wild beasts abound. Crocodiles and hippopotami are frequently seen on the banks of the river, and ostriches and camelions are to be found here. But I fear I am too minute, and shall therefore only add that this settlement now belongs to the French, to whom it was ceded by the British government in 1816.

One hundred and twenty miles from Sec 4

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negal is the island of Goree, which is a low narrow piece of land, about a mile in circumference ; but although small, it is a desirable settlement in many points of view, particularly as it is the most healthy situation in this part of Africa. A considerable trade is carried on here in wax, hides, elephants’ teeth, and other articles. The fort is built on a steep hill, at the foot of which is the town, where there are several well-built houses. There is a market daily for beef and other articles, and abundance of fish of almost all descriptions, as well as vegetables and fruits, which either grow on the island, or are brought from the continent. It is bounded on the south by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the north by Cape Verd ; the air is cool and temperate, and the nights and days (as at most of our settlements in Africa,) are nearly equal ; but this island was also given up to the French at the same time as Senegal.