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A voyage round the world, and visits to various foreign countries, in the United States frigate Columbia ..

Fitch W. Taylor · 1846 · Scanned text · Free in the US

242,819 words · about 17 h to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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Free in the US: this text is in the public domain in the United States; it may still be in copyright elsewhere.

Licence: PD-US · Published 1846 (before 1884; date from the PleIAs English-PD record). The dataset curator states the whole collection is public domain in all regions (curator assertion, not independently verified); treated as public domain in the US.

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About this book

Author
Fitch W. Taylor
Language
English
Published
1846
Length
242,819 words · about 17 h
Sections
21 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public domain in the United States

 

Contents (21)
  1. Front matter about 11 min
  2. Section II about 34 min
  3. Section III about 1 h 28 min
  4. Section IV about 33 min
  5. Section V. Rio De Janeiro about 32 min
  6. Section VI about 50 min
  7. Section VII. Muscat about 48 min
  8. Section VIII. Bomb Ay about 56 min
  9. Section IX. Go A about 18 min
  10. Section X. Colombo about 2 h 3 min
  11. Section I. Penang about 8 min
  12. Section II. Singapore about 1 h 55 min
  13. Section III about 5 min
  14. Section IV. China about 1 h 23 min
  15. Section V. Canton about 1 h 24 min
  16. Section VI. Tung Koo Bay about 15 min
  17. Section VII about 16 min
  18. Section VIII. Sandwich Islands about 1 h 28 min
  19. Section IX. Society Islands about 16 min
  20. Section X. South America about 1 h 13 min
  21. Section XII about 23 min

Continue:

Front matter

/1

Mcoessions

Shelf No.

Section II

Sailors' debts paid with the main. top-sail. Broad pennant saluted. System of signals. How to shoot an Indian. An acting appointment. Religious service at sea. Marine hymn. Dinner party at sea. Parting with the John Adams. The middle watch. Speaking a ship. Phosphorescent track of the Columbia at night. Music. Sunset. A seaman falling from aloft. Burial at sea. Its effect on a young Midshipman. A ship short of provisions, supplied. The John Adams again in company. The high peaks of Madeira descried. Distant view of the island on the eve of the squadron's arrival.

" Thank heaven !" said a messmate, as the capes were disappearing, " our debts are all paid, at least, for two years to come." " Yes," added another, " paid with our main-top-sail" True it is, our sails are bearing us fast alike from creditor and debtor, from enemy, friend, and home.

As the broad blue pennant was run up, after we had left the last point of land low in the west, the John Adams hred a salute. The Commodore, by signals, directed our consort to take her position on our larboard quarter. As she came down to us, she exhibited a beautiful movement, gracefully gliding on her course, bowing, and courtesying, and coquetting, like a beauty aware of her charms, and knowing herself the object of admiration. She luffed up, as she laid her bows obliquely across our wake. Our first Lieutenant, with the trumpet in his hand, stood upon the tafferel of the ship, and as the Adams reached her nearest point, he spoke through the sounding tube :

" The Commodore will send a boat aboard of you, sir."

" Ay, ay, sir," was the sententious response of the officer, from the deck of the Adams. The two ships came so nearly together, that the officers recognised each other, and touched their caps in acknowledgment of each other's courtesy.

It is not an uninteresting sight to witness two ships, while tossed on the surges of the ocean, and beyond speaking distance, conversing with each other by means of signals.

Every nation has its private signals. In war and in peace, the signal book is held sacred, and the signals are supposed to be known only to the commander of each vessel. In case of war, if a national vessel happen to be captured, the signal book is at once thrown overboard, before the victor can gain possession of it. Otherwise he might decoy into his power, by a knowledge of these private signs, other ships of the nation with which he is at war.

The system of signals has never yet been brought to any great perfection, in practice, by any maritime power. Since the introduction of numbers into telegraphic language, however, the communication by signals has been extended and facilitated ; and it has created a language that may be made use of as a more general means of communication between ships at sea, and from ships with the shore.

Ten separate flags, with different devices in figure and colors, are used, as, 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 0 ; the number of each being known by its device. The flags are read from the top downwards. Thus, if it is desired to make the number 15 to a distant ship, which however is sufficiently near to make out, with her glass, the emblems by which the numbers of the signal are known, the two flags which stand for No. 1 and No. 5 are set, at the gaff or other part of the ship, where the signal can most readily be made out by the distant vessel. If the No. 152 is to be communicated, the flag representing No. 2 will be set beneath the two flags already mentioned.

The signal book contains numbers from one to one thousand, more or less, and opposite each number is some nautical phrase, sentence, name of place, latitude, longitude, or other expressions, and sufficiently numerous and varied for most purposes. Therefore, wrhen the number is made out by the distant vessel, a reference to the signal book will give the expression opposite to it, which it is the wish of one party to communicate to the other. Suppose, then, No. 15 of the signal book has opposite to it the word " ves ;" No. 16, the words "if wind and weather permit ;" No. 17, " Sunday ;" No. 18, " 2 o'clock ;" No. 19, " Will you dine with us ?" With these numbers we may illustrate the subject by a case which has already occurred on board our ship. The Commodore, desiring to invite the Commander of the John Adams to take dinner with him, directs the flag-officer to have the signal No. 19 made, which is done by setting the two flags which stand for the numbers one and nine. This being read on board the Adams, an answering pennant, which means, " We have made out the number," is run up and again hauled down. The number of the first signal having been read, the second or No. 18, in like manner with the first, is made by th° two flags representing one and eight. This answered, asbeing understood on board the other vessel, No. 17 is made by the flags No. 1 and No. 7. No further signals following from the Columbia, the Commander of the Adams, by referring to the signal book, finds it to read,

" No. 19. Will you dine with us ?"

" No. 18. Sunday."

The Commander of the Adams, accepting the invitation, replies by making the numbers 16 and 15, which will read, " Yes, if wind and weather permit."

Signals, in the night-time, are often made by lights of different colors, and by adjusting them in different positions, at various angles ; by rockets and by fires.

The signal book of the navy has attached to it a heavy piece of lead, which would immediately sink it if thrown overboard.

I quote, at random, the following numbers from the " American Signal Book," which is generally used in the American merchant service :

"219. What are you about V

"313. A mutiny onboard."

"716. If we have not immediate assistance."

" 962. All's lost."

" 718. We will send assistance."

" 188. Heave all aback."

" 332. Mutinv is quelled."

" 40. All's well."

" I tell you what," says Lieutenant W. (the subject of shooting the aborigines of our land being under discussion,) if you would kill an Indian, you must proceed somewhat after the manner of cooking a dolphin." " How is that ?" " Why, catch him first."

It is not unusual for the young gentlemen of the ship to avail themselves of any innocent occasion for creating a smile at the expense of one of their messmates. As we left the Roads without the usual number of Lieutenants, it was presumed that some of the passed Midshipmen would receive acting appointments. By consequence, these young gentlemen were on tiptoe expectation for the announcement of their acceptable good fortune. One of the Lieutenants, a young gentleman of wit and worth, caught a pen at my desk, and scribbled an acting appointment for one of these expectants, for whom there was no doubt but that an acting appointment had been made out by the Commodore, who yet, for the present, retained the paper. Having finished the fictitious appointment, it was regularly enclosed within the official fawn-colored envelope, and conveyed to the Master (who is a passed Midshipman) by the orderly, who generally bears the particularly official messages from the Commodore. The orderly knocked at the door of the Master, who was in his room, busily making out the reckonings of the day's sailing. " Come in, sir," echoed a voice from within, while the Lieutenant and some others were standing at a distance without to witness the effect. The Master's door was opened. The fawn-colored envelope acted like a spell. The Master dropped his figuring utensils, and hopped into " the country" of the ward-room, as its open space is called, holding up his fawn-colored envelope and exclaiming in abundant exultation, in the possession of an acting Lieutenancy, " I writes no more of these Master's figurations, gentlemen," shaking the fawn-colored, with three significant configurations above his head, and at the same time opening the seal, read as follows :

" U. S. Frigate Columbia, May 1st, 1838.

" Sir, — You are hereby appointed acting Jemmy Ducks of this ship until it shall please the Hon. the Secretary of the Navy, to confirm the appointment.

" Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

"'CORINTHIAN TOM,' " Commander in chief of all the U. S. poultry in the China seas. " To &c. &c."

The joke went off with a round peal of laughter from Corinthian Tom ; and the same evening the acceptable appointments were distributed to the young gentlemen, so worthily deserving them, in view of the arduous duties which lay before them on a long and critical voyage.

" What olden poet," it was asked at the mess-table to-day, while an antique chicken was under both discussion and dissection, "does one think of when masticating the drumstick of a tough one ?" " I have it," said another, as he gave the experimental answer, with a delicate morsel of the antique gentleman between his teeth. " Chauser," wras the reply, as the chewer took breath, to save him from premature exhaustion.

If these are trifles, they yet show that trifles are not always excluded from shipboard, any more than from the society of triflers on land. And they further show that men, thrown together within the narrow compass of a ward-room, with dispositions and tastes perhaps alike in no two instances, can yet make themselves agreeable and become true and lasting friends.

The weather being fair on Sunday, we had divine service on the upper deck. Such a service on board a man-of-war is characteristic and interesting.

At half-past ten o'clock, the decks of the ship having been cleared, as usual, and the men having been inspected at their quarters, they are piped, on Sunday morning, in their best dresses, to muster.

A frigate's company, in all, generally consists of five hundred persons. At the call to muster, the men take their position on the quarter-deck. In warm weather, they are generally dressed in white duck trousers, white shirts, with blue collars and bosoms. The broad blue collar is turned down, with a star upon each corner, and the blue bosom exposes three stripes of narrow white tape, edging the inserted blue. A black silk neck-cloth, beneath the overturned collar, is knotted on the bosom, or tied with a piece of white tape, leaving the neck open and exposed. A blue jacket, unbuttoned, polished shoes, with tarpaulin hat, or a lighter straw one in warm weather, complete the uniform and characteristic dress of an American seaman. The whole appearance of the sailors on this day is expected to be such as to pass the particular examination by the officers — an inspection which they invariably go through on this day, after the religious services are over — their names being called, one by one, as they pass from their positions in review directly before the officers, who still retain their places until the muster-roll is finished. Should the shoes of any one of the men be found unpolished, or any portion of the dress be characteristic of negligence, the man is directed to stop at the mainmast. It is known that such an offence incurs a penalty of half a dozen lashes at the gangway, and most frequently it is inflicted. This tends to render the appearance of the whole crew strikingly neat on the Sabbath, in their uniform sailor-dresses.

AMERICAN TAR,

And this requisite, as to particularity in dress, extends to the officers, who are expected to appear in their uniform, and with as great a care to neatness as is required of the men.

The sailors thus placed upon the quarter-deck, the marines, about sixty in number, are next drawn up, in double file, in full dress, on the larboard side of the ship, with the right of the division resting near the sailors on the quarter-deck, and stand, with their polished guns, at rest.

On the starboard side, opposite the marines, is the position of the officers of the ship ; and between them, with the officers on his left, and the marines on his right, and the sailors directly in front, on the quarter-deck, the Chaplain takes his position at the capstan, both as his desk and pulpit. The capstan in itself is an object of ornament on board a frigate, standing abaft the mainmast, and is generally inlaid with different devices of stars and other figures of brass, and always kept brightly polished. Over the top of the capstan, which is some four feet in diameter, a flag is thrown, in preparation for the expected service, and the platform on which the chaplain stands is also covered with bunting. When the chaplain is in his position, the commanding officer stands near his left, with the other officers but a small distance still further at the left of the chief officer.

The deck is generally in this attitude when the Chaplain ascends the hatchway from his room, and takes his position at the capstan. The Commodore taking a book from the number, which are upon the capstan and before the Chaplain the others are distributed among the officers ; when the Chaplain begins the religious services according to the ritual of the Episcopal church.

Surely no one can, for the first time, contemplate such a scene on the deck of a man-of-war, without interest — nearly five hundred souls, their persons attired in their neatest dresses, often deemed a rough people, but now exhibiting a beautiful aspect of propriety and neatness, and profoundest stillness, gathered for solemn worship on the decks of a majestic frigate, bounding yet fleetly on her way of ocean, yet, as if conscious of the solemn hour and the solemn scene upon her deck, scarcely once careening or pitching so perceptibly as to inconvenience

A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD.

the worshippers. Around spreads the far blue deep, and above the fair blue sky ; and God is seen in the majesty and the beauty of both. The Chaplain commences the profound worship of the Eternal — it is continued — it ends.

The service on these occasions is generally and properly abbreviated, and the sermon, it is expected, will be comparatively brief, as the officers and crew are standing throughout the service, uncovered, but beneath a spread awning, shading the entire deck when the weather is warm.

Our services to-day, with little variations to meet the circumstances of the ship, now but eight days at sea, were conducted after the manner described.

MARINE HYMN.

O God, the suns were made by thee, And stars that arch the deep blue sea ; We course the waves beneath their light, And trace thy hand by day and night.

We hear the roar of ocean-surge, And know, for thee, the gale will urge ; And on the sea when rests the calm, The stilly breeze sleeps in thy palm.

And when our ships ride on the deep, And waters only round us sweep, The heart then feels thy throne is high, And on the sailor rests thine eye.

Then hear our worship, O our God,

Who gemmed the heavens and seas laid broad ;

Before thee now our hearts we lay,

And in our sea-home temple, pray.

The day was fine. The John Adams was seen on our larboard quarter, nearly within the sound of the Chaplain's voice. The sermon was delivered without interruption, save now and then a single flap of the wing of a sail was heard, and once, a suppressed order from the officer of the deck to the captain of the mizen-top.

Captain Wyman, of the John Adams, was invited on board the Columbia, the succeeding day, to dine, together with the Commodore, with the ward-room mess.

It would be interesting to a landsman, to see one of the boats of a man-of-war, with all the confidence of security, passing from one ship to another, in mid ocean Our ships, however, in this instance, are within a mile of each other, and the invitation to the commander of the Adams, was given by signal. Nov less a matter of surprise, perhaps, would it appear to some of our friends, could they peep into our spacious ward-room, and mark the degree of neatness and taste with which a table is arranged for a dinner-patry, on board our frigate. The manner of serving up a dinner in the ward-room, would in no way do discredit to a dining-hall on shore. The polished covers, the pure French china, the silver forks, the napkins and the damask table-cloths, covering a wellpolished mahogany table, all show no inconsiderable degree of elegance ; and under the management of Dr. H., our tasteful caterer, presented, on this occasion, an appearance that would be respectable in any private parlor. And then the different dishes, got up by French cooks, (heaven bless the French genius, when variety is desired,) are quite sufficient to satisfy the taste as well as the appetite. And fruits are always kept by the mess, and pastries are made per order of the caterer. In truth, one would hardly remember that he was not in the private dining-hall of a friend, if one happened to have his friends around him, the motion of the frigate not being sufficient to create any inconvenience, as may be supposed, so far as the present occasion was concerned, as the tables were unlashed, and no article of the dishes moved from their position, otherwise than they would have been from the table of an unrocked dwelling of one's land-home.

After a beautiful sunset last evening, May 14th, the sun clouded in, and the rain descended, at times, in torrents. It was so thick, that nothing could be seen five lengths of the frigate, ahead of her. The weather, as usual in the Gulf Stream, has been more or less rainy, but more favorable than is generally found to attend a passage across it.

At a half-hour by sun, a signal was made to the John Adams, for tacking ship. The Columbia changed her course gracefully, as the Adams still stood on her way, apparently directly by us, lining her beautiful form in distinct relief on the glorious sky, then illumined by the golden sunset behind her. But soon, when on our larboard quarter, she came up into the wind, and tacked with grace ; and the two coursers together, stood again on their equal and parallel track. We were still together during the middle-watch. But, this morning, the Adams is not to be seen. She can be descried nowhere upon the ocean, and probably will take good care not to get into our company again, if she can avoid it, until we shall reach Madeira. It is generally deemed a pardonable offence, for one vessel sailing in company with another, and having a common rendezvous, to make her escape, if a plausible excuse can be rendered to the flag-ship.

The mists and squalls of last night, were quite too good an opportunity for the Adams not to get out of sight. And doubtless they are in high glee this morning, at their good fortune, in being at liberty to trace their own way, without following the motions, in making and shortening sail, in mimic suit of the Columbia, to whose movements she has to accommodate herself. " By heavens," says an interesting small gentleman, on board the Adams, as he takes his seat at the mess-table this morning, " I managed it, gentlemen, last night, any how, ay ?" with a small flourish or two of his finger, as he edges a little nearer the table, to commence a very short description of the movement and other things.

The John Adams had orders to stand for Madeira, if we parted company ; and having watered and taken in all necessary supplies, to stand on her way again, for Rio de Janeiro, unless the Columbia should be at Funchal, the capital of the island of Madeira, at the time of her reaching there.

As I sought the deck, to-night, I saluted the officer of the watch, by touching my hat, as the usual ceremony of respect to the deck-officer, adding,

" O Pilot, 'tis a fearful night,

There's danger on the deep ; I'll come and pace the deck with thee, I do not dare to sleep."

" Come," said the Lieutenant, " at the middle-watch, that is the hour we have for gentle memories."

It was a lovely night, and not such as the poetry quoted would lead one to suppose, but such as might awaken poetry in sentiment, in one who yet might never have made rhymes.

" And then," I said, " it is not with you, as the sailors say, that salt water washes away the recollections of home V

" No," continued the officer of the deck. " Were I a young lady with a lover, I would command him to go to sea. I am sure his affections would be deepened in the long and deep memories which awake while he paces the deck in the hours of the middle-watch."

" And how is it with you, Doctor ?" I asked, as the fleet surgeon joined our promenade. " Do you find that the briny mist washes away your soft musings of home, and wife, and the little ones ?"

" Ah, sir," returned the surgeon, " I find it like a mordaunt of the chemist and the dyer, one ingredient of which is salt, and which they use to fix indelibly their colors. And yet I shut my eyes as much as possible to the visions which come up before me, in their every hue of love and be me- associations."

" For myself," I added, " there was sufficient of the nausea about me, for four or five days, to make me think only of my uninteresting self; but I now cast my look over the waste of waters between me and those I love, and feast sadly but happily on the memories which winds and waves cannot bear from me."

The watches of the ship are divided into eight, each Lieutenant, in turn, keeping the deck during one watch. He is called, for the time being, the officer of the deck ; and through him, all orders are issued, and to him the care of the sailing of the ship is committed. The watches at night are from 8 till 12, called the first watch ; from 12 till 4, called the mid-watch ; from 4 till 8, called the morning watch. During these hours, if the wind is fair, the Lieutenant has much time for thinking, as may be the train of his feelings, in happy or in sorrowful musings. And I can imagine how often the memories of home come up to the mind of the young Lieutenant, as he paces the deck, with the trumpet in his hand, alone ; occasionally casting up his eye to mark the trim of the sails, and issues, at one moment, an order to give a pull upon a brace, which serves to break in upon the train of his deepening memories. But he soon again renews his monotonous step, and the gentle recollections come over him, which transport him to those he loves, while he almost thinks himself in their embraces, in happy commune, until a sudden sigh comes from some sudden consciousness that it is but a dream ; and he wakes to the reality, that he is yet stemming on his long course, still away and away from the land of his home, the young companion of his bosom, and friends less near than she, but still dear in his delightful and welcome loves.

On the morning of the 18th, a barque from Havre, bound to Baltimore, came down upon us, with most of her sails set, as we bore a little out of our course to meet her, that we might forward letters to our friends in the United States. A letter bag was soon prepared, and a boat lowered. Lieut. Turner and Mid. Sincler boarded the barque, as she lay off from us, with her sails aback, exhibiting a fine model of an American ship.

It was a beautiful sight as the two ships lay aback, and a moment lingered on their separate courses, while the frigate's boat bounded on the surge, to bear our tokens of remembrances to friends and to communicate with a ship from a foreign land.

As soon as our boat had left the barque, on her return to the frigate, a fog came up suddenly over the ocean, with a change of the wind to the west. The barque filled away, and in a few moments was lost in the mists that swept over the sea ; and had our boat been delayed fifteen minutes longer, she might have been shut in by the fog ; while, however, in this instance, there would have been no danger, as she was within the hearing of our ship's bell. The scene was an interesting exhibition, recalling to the mind occurrences which often take place at sea whan a boat has been despatched from the ship. The instances are many of a fog unexpectedly overtaking a boat, when, in the absence of a compass, the course becomes unknown. In such a case, the ship, having the bearing of the point from which the boat is expected, stands for her accordingly, and in most cases, by the discharge of guns and the sounding of the bell, the boat is recovered.

To-night, now after ten o'clock, our frigate presents a magnificent exhibition, while cutting her way of light through the dark ocean. Clouds hang thick above us, veiling star and moon from the sight ; and the fresh breeze drives our gallant vessel twelve knots the hour on her course. She leaves in her wake a stream of light, which blazes forth in its mellow and spreading trail, like the tail of a comet lined on the blue heavens ; and before her the phosphorescent billow curves around her bow a mighty crest of ever rolling and flashing light. Beyond us, the illumined peaks of the waves, as they break, sail down in their silver sheets, to mingle their sheen of phosphorescence in the flood of glory, which the ship carries before her. How grand ! how beautiful ! I went far out upon the bowsprit to get a fairer view of her stem, buried, as it is, in its halo of glory, and throwing up its cascades of corruscating light. What is she like as she careers on her way, a giant in her prowess, and yet, in her graceful make, a fit personification of the genius of America ? And she is the genius of our own, our native land. Her name, too, is Columbia, and she is driving onward, to bear proud credentials of her origin and of the glory of the land she owns, to far and wilder nations, and older but not prouder dominions and people than the land from which she sails. God speed thee, good ship. Thou art freighted with some choice spirits, and with honorable designs. Thy way, to-night, is one of light and glory. May it be brightly ominous of thy good reception ; and emblem forth thine honorable offices and untarnished bearing, while on thy mission of courtesy and reciprocated good will of the younger West to the olden East.

The Mahonese, Mr. C, has occasionally favored us with music, playing on the guitar, and accompanied to-night by one of the ward-room officers, on the flute. Our First Lieutenant sang a sweet little air, with taste and feeling. How it comes over the soul, that sweet strain of symphony ! Music, I love thee ever ! Thou art to me an inspirer — a soother — and yet thou sometimes breakest my heart, and I weep ! Oh, are they not happy thoughts which thou awakest, as thou bearest me over the vast waters to those I love — as I seem anew to hear the dulcet strains, which the voices of loved ones have poured upon my ear in days that are gone ! I find myself more and more susceptible to the influence of sweet harmonies. And yet, it is sometimes difficult to analyze the spell of enchantment which comes over me. But it intoxicates like the papaver of the opium-eater. Still I wish to pour out these feelings in lonely commune with myself. They are all too hallowed emotions for the sympathy of others. Sweet music, I will love thee ever, for thy power is always kind. Thou takest me anew along the w7oodland acclivities and deep ravines, and shaded and meadow-plains of my own grounds. Thou recallest the moon-lit nights, when I have paced the avenues with a sister leaning on my arm, and we have paused and gazed together on the bright bosom of the river, sleeping in its flood of moonbeams. And thou tellest me when together we have sat on the embowered bench, and not a bird was awake, and moist eve had perfumed the balmy air, and for me the guitar was struck — was struck for me — and we loved more kindly, and our hearts were more blessed. And when, further off, sweet music hath awakened, I have leaned upon my elbow, and gazed from the lattice of my country home, and contemplated the deep shade beneath the fruit-trees and the forest clusters, and read the bright stars above when seen through the shady vistas, and when the romance of nature was weaving her mystic and fairy and enchanted visions of days yet to come, when all would be well — when all would be happy — when all would be bliss. Ah ! those days I hoped for, where are ye? But it was happiness thus to muse — ■ thus to despond — thus to hope — thus, in imagination, to realize in fancied possession, more than the growing reality. Music, I will love thee ever !

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