Voyage Of The Vega Vol-I

Front matter

ROUND

ASIA AND EUROPE.

VOL. I.

Author's Preface

of a sea-going vessel, and conduce to dissipate a j^ejudice which for centuries has kept the most extensive cultivable territory on the globe shut out from the great Oceans of the World.

The work is furnished with numerous maps and illustrations, and is provided with accurate references to sources of geogra¬ phical information. For this I am indebted both to the liberal conception which my publisher, Herr Frans Beijer, formed of the way in which the work should^ be executed, and the assistance I have received while it w£s passing through the press from Herr E. W. Dahlgren, amanuensis at the Royal Library, for which it is a pleasant duty publicly to offer them my hearty thanks.

A. E. N ORDEN SKIOLD.

Stockholm, Sth October, 1881.

TRANSLATOR’S PREFACE.

Having been honoured by a request from Baron Nordenskiold that I would undertake the translation of the work in which lie gives an account of the voyage by which the North-East Passage was at last achieved, and Asia and Europe circum¬ navigated for the first time, I have done my best to reproduce in English the sense of the Swedish original as faithfully as possible, and at the same time to preserve the style of the author as far as the varying idioms of the two languages permit.

I have to thank two ladies for the help they kindly gave me in reading proofs, and my friend Herr Gustaf LindstkOm, for valuable assistance rendered in various ways.

Where not otherwise indicated, temperature is stated in degrees of the Centrigrade or Celsius thermometer. Longi¬ tude is invariably reckoned from the meridian of Greenwich.

Where distance is stated in miles without qualification, the miles are Swedish (one of which is equal to 6*64 English miles), except at page 372, Vol. I., where the geographical square miles are German, each equal to sixteen English geographical square miles.

ALKX. LESLIE

CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Introduction Page 1

Chapter I

Departure — Tromsoe — Members of the Exhibition — Stay at Maosoe — Limit of Trees — Climate— Scurvy and Antiscorbutics — The first doubling of North Cape — Othere’s account of his Travels — Ideas concerning the Geography of Scandinavia current during the first half of the sixteenth century — The oldest Maps of the North — Herbertstein’s account of Istoma’s voyage — Gustaf Vasa and the North-East Passage — Willoughby and Chancellor’s voyages . Pages 34—68

Chapter II

Departure from Maosoe — Gooseland — State of the Ice— The Vessels of the Expedition assemble at Chabarova— The Samoyed town there— The Church — Russians and Samoyeds— Visit to Chabarova in 1875 — Purchase of Samoyed Idols — Dress and dwellings of the Samoyeds — Comparison of the Polar Races — Sacrificial Places and Samoyed Grave on Way gats Island visited — Former accounts of the Samoyeds— Their place in Etlmosraphv.

Chapter III

From the Animal World of Novaya Zemlya — The Fulmar Petrel— The Rotge or little Auk— Brunnich’s Guillemot— The Black Guillemot— The Arctic Puffin —The Gulls— Richardson’s Skua— The Tern— Ducks and Geese— The Swan — Waders— The Snow Bunting— The Ptarmigan — The Snowy Owl — The Reindeer — The Polar Bear — The Arctic Fox — The Lemming — Insects — The Walrus— The Seal— Whales . Pages 107 170

Chapter IV

The Origin of the names Yugor Schar and Kara Sea— Rules for Sailing through Yugor Schar — The “Highest Mountain’’ on Earth — Anchorages — Entering the Kara Sea— Its Surroundings— The Inland-ice of Novaya Zemlya— True Icebergs rare in certain parts of the Polar Sea— The Natural Conditions of

Contents

tlie Kara Sea— Animals, Plants, Bog-ore — Passage across the Kara Sea— The Influence of the Ice on the Sea-bottom— Fresh- water Diatoms on Sea-ice— Arrival at Port Dickson— Animal Life there— Settlers and Settlements at the Mouth of the Yenisej — The Flora at Port Dickson — Evertebrates — Excursion to White Island — Yalmal — Previous Visits — Nummelin’s Wintering on the Brioehov Islands . Pages 171 — 214

Chapter V

The history of the North-east Passage from 1556 to 1878 — Buirough, 1556— Pet and Jackman, 1580 — The first voyage of the Dutch, 1594 — Oliver Brunei — The second voyage, 1595 — The third voyage, 1596 — Hudson, 1608 — Gourdon, 1611 — Bosnian, 1625 — Dela Martiniere, 1653 — Ylamingh, 1664 — Snobberger,

1675 — Roule reaches a land north of Novaya Zemlya— Wood and Flawes,

1676 — Discussion in England concerning the state of the ice in the Polar Sea

— Views of the condition of the Polar Sea still divided — Payer and Weyprecht, 1872-74 . Pages 215—267

Chapter VI

The North-east Voyages of the Russians and Norwegians — Rodivan Ivanov, 1690— The Great Northern Expedition 1734-37— The supposed Richness in ' metals of Novaya Zemlya — Iuschkov, 1757 — Savva Loschkin, 1760 — Rossmuislov, 1768 — Lasarev, 1819 — Liitke, 1821-24 — Ivanov, 1822-28 — Pachtussov, 1832-35 — Yon Baer, 1837 — Zivolka and Moissejev, 1838-39 — Von Krusenstern, 1860-62— The Origin and History of the Polar Sea Hunting — Carlsen, 1868 — Ed. Johannesen, 1869-70— Dive, Mack, and Quale, 1870 — Mack, 1871 —Discovery of the Relics of Barent’s wintering — Tobiesen’s wintering 1872-73 — The Swedish Expeditions 1875 and 1876 — Wiggins, 1876— Later voyages to and from the Yenisej Pages 268 — 317

Chapter VII

Departure from Port Dickson — Landing on a rocky island east of the Yenisej — Self-dead animals— Discovery of crystals on the surface of the drift-ice— Cosmic dust— Stay in Actinia Bay — Johannesen5 s discovery of the island Ensamheten — Arrival at Cape Chelyuskin — The natural state of the land and sea there— Attempt to penetrate right eastwards to the New Siberian Islands — The effect of the mist — Abundant dredging-yield — Preobrasclienie Island — Separation from the Lena at the mouth of the river Lena. Pages 318 — 356

CHAPTER VJ1I.

The voyage of the Fraser and the Repress up the Yenisej and their return to Norway — Contiaet for the piloting of the Lena up the Lena river — The voyage of the Lena through the delta and up the river to Yakutsk — The lMtiual state of Siberia in general — The river territories— The fitness of tin*

CONTENTS.

xv land for cultivation and the necessity for improved communications — The great rivers, the future commercial highways of Siberia — Voyage up the Yenisej in 1S75 — SibiriakofF’s Island — The tundra— The primeval Siberian forest— The inhabitants of Western Siberia : the Russians, the Exiles, the “Asiatics” — Ways of travelling on the Yenisej . dog-boats, floating trading stores propelled by steam— New prospects for Siberia . Pages 357 — 397

Chapter IX

The new Siberian Islands — The Mammoth — Discovery of Mammoth and Rhinoceros mummies — Fossil Rhinoceros horns — Stolbovoj Island — Liachofl* Island — First discovery of this island — Passage through the sound between this island and the mainland — Animal life there — Formation of ice in water above the freezing point— The Bear Islands — The quantity and dimensions of the ice begin to increase — Different kinds of sea-ice — Renewed attempt to leave the open channel along the coast — Lighthouse Island — V oyage along the coast to Cape Schelagskog — Advance delayed by ice, shoals, and fog — First meeting with the Chukches — Landing and visits to Chukch villages — Discovery of abandoned encampments — Trade with the natives rendered difficult by the want of means of exchange — Stay at Irkaipij — Onkilon graves — Information regarding the Onkilon race — Renewed contact with the Chukches— Kolyutschin Bay— American statements regarding the state of the ice north of Behring’s Straits— The Vega beset . Pages 398 — 461

Chapter X

Wintering becomes necessary— The position of the Vega ;— The ice round the vessel— American ship in the neighbourhood of the Vega when frozen in— The nature of the neighbouring country— The Vega is prepared for wintering —Provision-depOt and observatories established on land— The winter dress —Temperature on board— Health and dietary— Cold, wind, and snow— The Chukches on board — Menka’s visit— Letters sent home— Nordquist and Jlovgaard’s excursion to Menka’s encampment— Another visit of Menka— The fate of the letters— Nordquist’s journey to ViSlm—Find of a Chukch grave — Hunting — Scientific work— Life on board- Christmas Eve.

PORTRAITS.

Engraved on Steel by G. J. Stodart of London.

King Oscar II . To face Title-page .

Oscar Dickson . „ Page 1

Alexander SibiriakolF . „ 3

LITHOGRAPHED MAPS.

1. Map of North Europe, from Nicholas Donis’s edition of Ptolemy’s

Cosmographia, ITIm, 1482 . 51

2. Map of the North, from Jakob Ziegler’s Sekondia, Strassburg, 1532 . 52

3. Map of North Europe from Olai Magni Bistoria de gentium septen-

4. Map of Port Dickson, by G. Bove. Map of Cape Bolvan on Vaygats

Island, by the author. The Lmo?8 cruise in Malygin Sound, by A. Hovgaard. Map of Cape Chelyuskin, by G. Bove . . . 318

5. Map showing Barents’ Third Voyage, from/, L. Pcmtam Penm et urbis

6. Russian Map of the North Polar Sea from the beginning of the 17th

century, published in Holland in 1612 by Isaac Massa . . . 239

7. Sketch-Map of Taimur Sound ; Map of Actinia Bay, both by G. Bove . 333

8. Map of the River System of Siberia . 372

LIST OF WOOD-CUTS IN YOL I.

The mood-cuts, when not otherwise stated below, were engraved at Herr Wilhelm Meyer's Xylograph ie Institute in Stockholm .

PAGE

1. The Vega under sail, drawn by Captain J. Hag" 1

2. The J\ga —Longitudinal section, drawn by Lieut. C. A. M. Hjulluimnar 6

3. ,, „ Plan of arrangement under deck, drawn l>y ditto . . 6

4. „ „ Plan of upper deck, drawn by ditto .... 6

5. The Lem — Longitudinal section, drawn by Marine-engineer J. Pihlgren 7

6. „ „ Plan of arrangement under deck, drawn by ditto . . 7

7. „ „ Plan of upper deck, drawn by ditto .... 7

8. Flag of the Swedish Yacht Club, drawn by Y. Andren ... 33

9. Tromsoe, drawn by E. Haglund . 35

10. Old World Polar dress, drawn by 0. Stirling . 40

11. New World Polar Dress, drawn by Docent A. Komerup, Copenhagen. 41

12. Limit of Trees in Norway, drawn by E. Haglund, engraved by

J. Engberg . 42

1 3. Limit of Trees in Siberia, drawn by ditto . 43

14. The Cloudberry {Eubrn Chamo&morus, L.), drawn by Mrs. Professor

A. Anderssen . 44

15. N orse Ship of the Tenth Century, drawn by Harald Schoyen, Christiania 50

16. Sebastian Cabot, engraved by Miss Ida Falander .... 59

17. Sir Hugh Willoughby, engraved by J. D. Cooper, London ... 59

19. Vardoe in our days, drawn by E. Haglund ..... 05

b

XX

LIST OF WOOD-CUTS IN VOL. L

PAGE

20. ('oast Landscape from Matotselikin Schar, drawn by R. Haglnnd . 70

21. Clmreli of Cliaharova, drawn l»y V. Andren . 76

22. Samoyed Womans Hood, dravsTi by 0. Sorling . SI

23. Samoyed Sleigh, drawn by R. Haglund . 82

24. Lapp Akja, drawn by ditto ; engraved by J. Engberg ... 83

25. Samoyed Sleigli and Idols . . 84

26. Samoyed Idols, drawn by 0. Sorling . .85

27. Samoyed Hair Ornaments, drawn by ditto . 86

28. Samoyed Woman’s Dress, diawn by R. Haglund .... 89

29. Samoyed Belt with Knife, drawn by 0. Sorling .... 90

30. Sacrificial Eminence on Yaygat’s Island, drawn by R. Haglund ;

engraved by J. Engberg . 91

31. Idols from the Sacrificial Cairn, drawn by 0. Sorling . . . . 94

32. Sacrificial Cavity on Yaygat’s Island, drawn by Y. Andrdu . . 96

33. Samoyed Grave on Yaygat’s Island, drawn by R. Haglnnd ; engraved

by 0. Daklbiick . 98

34. Samoyed Archers . 99

36. Breeding-place for Little Auks, drawn by R. Haglund . . . 106

37. The Little Auk, or Rotge (Mergulus Allc, L.), drawn by M. Westergren 110

38. The Loom, or Brunnich’s Guillemot (Uria Brunniclvii, Sabine), drawn

by ditto . Ill

39. The Arctic Puffin {Mormon Arcticus, L.), drawn by ditto . . . 113

40. The Black Guillemot (Uria Gryile, L.), drawn by ditto . . . 113

41. Breeding-place for Glaucous Gulls, drawn by R. Haglund . . .115

42. The Kittiwake ( Larus tiidactylus , L.), and the Ivory Gull (Larus

eburneus, L.), drawn by M. Westergren . 117

43. Rare Northern Gulls — Sabine’s Gull (Larus Salinii, Sabine) — Ross’s

Gull (Larus Mossvi , Richards), drawn by ditto . . . .119

44. The Common Skua (Lestris parasitica, L.) — Buffon’s Skua (Lestns

Buffomi, Boie) — the Pomarine Skua (Lestris pomarim, Tern.) drawn by ditto . 121

45. Heads of the Eider, King Duck, Barnacle Goose, and White-fronted

Goose, drawn by ditto . 124

LIST OF WOOD-CUTS IN VOL. I.

xxi

PAGE

46. Bewick’s Swan ( Cygnus Bncickii, Yarr.), drawn by 31. Westergren . 127

47. Breastbone of Cygnus Bewiclii , showing the peculiar position of the

windpipe, drawn by ditto . 127

4S. Ptarmigan Fell, drawn by It. Haglund . 130

49. The Snowy Owl (Stria a idea, L.), drawn by 31. Westergren . .131

50. Reindeer Pasture, drawn by It. Haglund . 136

51. Polar Bears, drawn by G. 3Iutzell, engraved by K. Jahrmargt, both of

53. "Walruses, drawn by 31. "Westergren . 150

54. Walras Tusks, drawn by ditto . 1 55

55. Hunting Implements, drawn by 0. Sorling . 156

56. Walras Hunting, after Olaus Magnus . 159

57. Walruses (female with young) . 160

5S. Japanese Drawing of the Walrus . 161

50. Young of the Greenland Seal, drawn by 31. Westergren . . ,164

60. The Bearded Seal (Phoeci barbata , Fabr ), drawn by ditto . . .166

61. The Rough Seal (JPhoca hiyjicla, Ersl.), drawn by ditto . . .166

62. The White Whale (Dclphinaptcrus leucan, Pallas), drawn by ditto . 167

63. Section of Inland-Ice . 176

64. View from the Inland-ice of Greenland, drawn by H. Haglund . . 177

65. Greenland Ice-fjord, drawn by ditto . 173

66. Slowly advancing Glacier, drawn by ditto . 180

67. Glacier with Stationary Front, drawn by 0. Sorling .... 180

68. Umbellula from the Kara Sea, drawn by M. Westergren . . . 184

69. Elpidia Glacialis (Theel.), from the Kara Sea, drawn by ditto . . 186

70. 3Ianganiferous Iron-ore Formations from the Kara Sea, drawn by

O. Sorling . 186

71. Section from the South Coast of Matotschkin Sound, drawn by the

geologist, E. Erdman . 188

72. 3Iap of the 3Iouth of the Yenisej (zincograph) . 192

73. Ruins of a Simovie at Krestovskoj, drawn by O, Stirling . . . 194

74. Sieversia Glacialis , R. Br., from Port Dickson, drawn by Mrs. Prof.

Anderssen . .... 197

LIST OF WOOD-CUTS IN VOL. I.

xxii

PAGE

75. Everrcbrates from Port Dickson, Told la artka, Gray, and Diastylis

Iiathlcci , Kr., drawn by M. Westergren . 199

76. Place of Sacrifice on Yalmal, drawn by It. Haglund .... 206

77. on the Briochov Islands, drawn by ditto . . . 210

78. Russian “Lodja” . 220

79. Dutch Skipper . 231

80. Capture of a Polar Bear . 233

81. Jan Huyghen van Linsehoten . 237

52. Kilduin, in Russian Lapland, in 1594 238

53. Map of Fietnm Nassovicum or Yugor Sckar . 242

84. Unsuccessful Fight with a Polar Bear . 245

85. Barents’ and Rijp’s Vessels . 248

86. Barents’ House, outside . 250

87. Ditto inside . 251

88. Jacob van Heemskerk . 254

89. De la Martiniere’s Map . 259

90. Ammonite with Gold Lustre {Ammonites altcrnans , v. Buck) drawn by

M. Westergren . 273

91. View from Matotschkin Schar, drawn by R. Haglund . . .275

92. Friedrich Benjamin von Lutke, drawn and engraved by Miss Ida

Falander . 278

93. August Karlovitz Zivolka, drawn and engraved by ditto . . . 2S4

94. Paul von Krusenstem, Junior, drawn and engraved by ditto . . 285

95. Michael Konstantinovitsch Sidoroff, drawn and engraved by ditto . 286

96. Norwegian Hunting Sloop, drawn by Captain J. Hagg . . . 292

97. Filing Carlsen, engraved by J. D. Cooper, of London . . . 294

98. Edward Hohn Johannesen, engraved by ditto . 295

99. Sivert Kristian Tobiesen, engraved by ditto . 303

100. Tobiesen’s Winter House on Bear Island, drawn by R Haglund . . 304

101. Joseph Wiggins, drawn by R. Haglund . 313

102. David Ivanovitsch Schwanenberg, drawn and engraved by Miss Ida

Fallander . 314

103. Gustaf Adolf Nummelin, drawn and engraved by ditto , . . 316

LIST OF WOOD-CUTS IN VOL. I.

xxiii

PAGE

104. The Sloop Utreanaja Saria, drawn by Captain J. Hagg . • .317

105. The Vega and Lena anchored to an Ice-floe, drawn by R. Haglund . 321

106. Hairstar from the Taimur Coast (Antcdm JSschrictii, J. Muller) drawn

byM. Westergren . 325

107. Form of the Crystals found on the ice off the Taimur Coast . . 327

10S. Section of the upper part of the Snow on a Drift-ice Field in 80° N.L. 329 109. Grass from Actinia Bay (Pleuropogon Sab mi, R. Bi\), drawn by Mrs.

Professor Andersson . 332

110 The Vega and Lena saluting Cape Chelyuskin, drawn by R. Haglund 338

111. View at Cape Chelyuskin during the stay of the Expedition, drawn

by ditto . 339

112. Draba Alpina, L., from Cape Chelyuskin, drawn by M. Westergren . 341

113. The Beetle living farthest to the North (Micralymma Dkksoni, MackL)

114. OpLiurid from the Sea north of Cape Chelyuskin ( Ophiacantha biden -

taia, Retz.), drawn by ditto . 345

11 5. Sea Spider ( Pyenogo/iid ) from the Sea east of Cape Chelyuskin, drawn

by ditto . .

116. Preobraschenie Island, drawn by R. Haglund . 353

117. The steamer Fraser, drawn by ditto . 358

118. The Steamer Lena, drawn by ditto . 365

119. Hans Christian Johannesen, engraved by J. D. Cooper, London . . 366

120. Yakutsk in the Seventeenth Century . 370

121. Yakutsk in our days, drawn by R. Haglund . 371

122. River View from the Yenissej, drawn by ditto . 377

123. Sub-fossil Marine Crustacea from the tundra, drawn by M. Westergren 379

124. Siberian River Boat, drawn by R. Haglund . 385

125. Ostyak Tent, drawn by ditto . 388

126. Towing with Dogs on the Yenisei drawn by Professor R. D Holm ' . 390

127. Fishing-boats on the Ob,‘ drawn by R Haglund .... 392

128. Graves in the Primeval Forest of Siberia, drawn by ditto . . . 393

129. Chukch Village on a Siberian River, drawn by ditto .... 396

130. Mammoth Skeleton in the Imperial Museum of the Academy of

Sciences in St. Petersburg, drawn by M. Westergren , . .401

XXIV

LIST OF WOOD-CUTS IN YOL. I

PAGE

131. Restored Form of the Mammoth . 403

132. Siberian Rhinoceros Horn, drawn by M. Westergren and Y. Andren . 407 130. Stolbovoj Island, drawn by R. Haglund ...... 414

134. Icloflieu Enfumvii, Lin., drawn by M. Westergren .... 416

135. Jdotkca tiabi'ncij Kroyer, drawn by ditto . 417

13G. LjachofTs Island, drawn by R. Haglund . 419

137. Beaker Sponges from the Sea off the month of the Kolyma, drawn by

M. Westergren . 427

138. Lighthouse Island, drawn by R. Haglund . 428

139. Chukeh Boats, drawn by 0. Sorling . 430

140. A Chukeh in Seal-gut Great-coat, drawn and engraved by Miss Ida

Falander . 432

141. Chukeh Tent, drawn by R. Haglund . 434

142. Section of a Chukeh Grave, drawn by O. Sorling .... 437

143. Irkaipij, drawn by R. Haglund . 442

144. Ruins of an Onkilon House, drawn by O. Sorling .... 443

145. Implements found in the Ruins of an Onkilon House, drawn by ditto 444

146. Alga from Irkaipij (. Laminaria Soilidungula , J. G. Ag.), drawn by M.

Westergren . 452

147. Cormorant from Irkaipij {Graculus bientstatus, Pallas), drawn by ditto 453

148. Pieces of Ice from the Coast of the Chukeh Peninsula, drawn by O. Sorling 455

149. Toross from the neighbourhood of the Vega's Winter Quarters, drawn by R. Haglund . 464

150. The Vega in Winter Quarters, drawn by ditto . 471

151. The Winter Dress of the Vega nr eu, drawn by Jungstedt . . .475

152. Cod fromPitlekaj (i Gadus navaga , Kolreuter), drawn by M. Westergren 481

153. Kautljkau, a Chukeh Girl from Irgunnuk, drawn and engraved by Miss

Ida Falander . 486

154. Chukclies Angling, drawn by 0. Sorling . 491

155. Ice-Sieve, drawn by ditto . 493

156. Smelt from the Chukeh Peninsula (Osmerus eperfanus, Lin.), drawn

by M. Westergren . . 494

157. Wassili Menka, drawn by 0. Sorling, engraved by Miss Ida Falander. 495

158. Clmkch Dog-Sleigh, drawn by ditto . 498

LIST OF WOOD-CUTS IN VOL. L

XXV

PAGE

159 Chukeh Bone-carvings, drawn by 0. Sorling . 506

160. Hares from Chukcli Land, drawn by M. Westergren .... 507

161. The Observatory at Pitlekaj, drawn by R. Haglund . . . .511

162. An Evening in the Gun-room of the Vega during the Wintering,

drawn by ditto, engraved by R. Lindgren . 515

163. Refraction Halo, drawn by ditto . . 518

164. Reflection Halo, drawn by ditto . 519

165. Section of the Beach Strata at Pitlekaj . 520

166. Christmas Eve on the Vega, drawn by V. Andrdn .... 521

ERRATA

Tage 44, under Wood-cut /or “ cliammmorus ” read “ chamaemonis.”

Page Sfi, lines 21, 24, and 2S for “peails” read “bends '*

Page 140, line 11 from top, for “shallow ” read “ roll away "

Page 1S4, last line, for “ one-third ” read “ one-and-a-half times *'

Pace 377, note, for “It is the general rule” read “For the northern hemisphere it is a general rule

Page 470, line 12 from top, for “ leggins ** leaxL “leggings **

Page 481. under wood-out, for “ half the natural size ” rend «* one-third of the natural size " Page 494, under wood-cut, for “ half the natural size " read “ one-third of the natural size.*’