Up the Amazon and Madeira rivers, through Bolivia and Peru

Front matter

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Preface

A few years ago I was Resident Engineer of the projected Madeira and Mamore Railway, to be constructed in the Province of Matto Grosso, in the Empire of Brazil, and as nearly as possible in the centre of the Continent of South America. From various causes the prosecution of the enterprise fell into abeyance for some considerable time. When the works were temporarily stopped, several reasons combined to induce me to return home by way of Bolivia and Peru. During that journey I kept up my ordinary custom of keeping a rough diary, and I have since dressed up my notes into something of a consecutive form. The resumption of the railway works has led me to think that some interest would attach to a description of a route across South America that has yet been but little travelled over. It has also occurred to me, that nowadays, when the Eastern trip to India, China, Japan, and home via San Francisco and New York, has been done by so many

Vlll PREFACE.

there may be adventurous spirits in search of new worlds to conquer, who would be pleased to know of a journey offering the combined attractions of canoeing on the magnificent affluents of the Amazon and a journey in the saddle across the Andes. My endeavour therefore has been to give all the information in my possession regarding the method and expense of travelling over the route indicated.

In grateful remembrance of many kindnesses received, I have dedicated my labours to the indefatigable worker who, for many years past, has devoted his life to the noble enterprise of opening a way to the markets of Europe for the many and varied products of the Eepublic of Bolivia and the Province of Matto Grosso in the Empire of Brazil.

CONTENTS,

Chapter I. Page

Brazilian coast — True and false Salinas — Dangers of the mouth of the Amazon — Para — Steamers on the Amazon — Amazon Steam Shipping Company, Limited — Vicinity of Para — European residents— Climate ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 1

Chapter II

Bay of Marajo — Lighthouses — Rule of the road for steamers — Vegetation on the Amazon — Rubber trees — Boa Vista — Corralinha — Breves — Parainha — Gurupa — Mont Alegre — Cattle-feeding grounds — River Tapajoz — Santarem — American settlers — Obidos — Manufacture of charqui — Villa Bella — Serpa — Navigation of the Amazon ... ... ... ... ... ... 7

Chapter III

Manaos — Trade direct with Europe — Obelisk commemorating opening of the river Amazon to all flags — Climate of Manaos — Absence of mosquitoes — River Madeira — Rubber-collecting preferred to agriculture — Mode of collection and preparation of the rubber — Guarana ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 12

Chapter IV

Borba — Tobacco — Island of Araras — Piedras de Uruas — Cachoerina — Exaltacion — Manicore — Mundurucu Indians — Marmelos — Bay etas — Juma — Mission of San Pedro — Crato — Old penal settlement — Umaita — Parententin Indians — Missionary efforts unable to reclaim these savages — Praia of Tamandoa— Turtles— San Antonio ... ... ... ... ... 18

Chapter V

Madeira and Mamore Railway — Ocean steamers can ascend to the first rapid — Brazilian outposts — Difference between high and low water below the rapid — Rainfall — Temperature — Scenery — Marks on rocks — Glossy black deposit on rocks — Trees of the

X CONTENTS.

PAGE

forest — Brazil nuts — Alligators — Peixebois, pirahybas, pirarucus, and other fish — Tapirs, how shot — On^as, and other animals — Birds, wild turkeys, ducks, etc. — Insects, mosquitoes, ants, etc. — Snakes, etc., etc 23

Chapter VI

Rapids of the Madeira River — Journey undertaken — Canoes, Indians, and other requirements for the journey described — Articles good for trading with savages — Provisions, etc. ... ... ... 32

Chapter VII

A start made — Canoe heavily laden — San Antonio rapid passed — Slow progress made — Method of passing over strong currents — The current of Macacos — The Bay of Theotonio — Canoe nearly swamped in same — The Falls of Theotonio — Fish at foot of falls — Franciscan mission to the Pamas — The portage of Theotonio 39

Chapter VIII

Currents above Theotonio — Loss of a small canoe — Theft of rum at night by one of the Bolivian boatmen — The rapid of Morinhos — Crew turn out to be very weak and slow — Plan for securing a good crew — The river Yaci-Parana — Morning fogs — Igarape of the Caripuna savages— Capitan Cinco's Island — Buena Esperanza — Rations given to the boatmen ... ... ... ... ... 45

Chapter IX

The rapid of Calderao do Inferno — Attacks of fever and vomiting — Caripuna savages — Death of a Bolivian boy — Earth-eating practised by the Indians — Death of Mariano, a Bolivian boatman— Peculiar custom prevailing amongst the Indians — The Falls of Girao— Miseries of a wet night 51

CHAPTER X. The rapid of Tres Irmaos — Meeting with the Pacaguara savages

The river Tres Irmaos — Wild turkeys ... ... 57

Chapter XI

San Louise — Track across the big bend of the river — Corrientes and Remansos — The rapid of Paredao — Violence of one of the Indian boatmen during a fit — The rapids of Pederneira — La Cruz — Probability that the country is level in the interior on the right bank of the river — As Penhas Coloradas 63

CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XII. Page

The rapid of Araras — Farinha and sardines for supper — Difficulty of treating the Indians successfully when they are sick — The current of Periquitos — Arrival at the Rabo do Ribeirao — The Bolivian Indian's chaunt at night — Passage of the Rabo do Ribeirao — Quantity of farinha consumed by boatmen, in the form of " shebee " — Canoe aground in the bay below the main fall of Ribeirao — The river Ribeirao — The portage of Ribeirao — Curious marks on rocks ... ... ... ... ... ... 69

Chapter XIII

Bad arrangements of the Bolivian patrons for rationing their men — The rapid of Misericordia — Tradition attached thereto — Meeting with canoes from Bolivia — The Madeira rapids and the junction of the river Beni — Nomenclature of the river Madeira in its different sections — The rapids of Layes — Wild cocoa trees — The Falls of Pao Grande 78

Chapter XIV

The river Yata — Meeting with another party descending from Bolivia — The rapids of Bananeiras — Abandoned settlement — Variability of the Bolivian character — The cabeceras of Bananeiras — The Sierra da Paca Nova — The rapids of Guajara Guasu and Merim — A few hints on leaving the last of the rapids ... ... 85

Chapter XV

Start made up river above rapids with drums beating — The islands of Cavalho Mariuho — A party of Baure Indians met with — Rate of progress calculated at two miles per hour — Otters, alligators, and monkeys shot — Steam navigation practicable on the river above the rapids — Stock taken of food-supplies left— Long hours worked 93

Chapter XVI

Junction of the river Itenez — Short description of the Itenez or Guapore and its affluents — Fires at night prohibited on account of savages — A capybara shot — Abundance of game above the rapids — False alarms of attack by savages — Cooking-stove rigged up in the canoe — The river Matocari — Hard work towing canoe — Open pampas— Strong gale from the south hinders progress — Chocolotales of Exaltacion— Falling banks — Estancia de Santiago — Value of oxen in the Estancias of Mojos 102

Xll CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII. Page

"El Cerrito" — Small steamer, the Explorador — "Taita Crusa" — The town of Exaltacion — The fifteen missions of the Beni and the tribes that belong to them — Some numerals and words in Mojeiio, Cayubaba, Canichana, and Yuracare — Education of the Indians 119

Chapter XVIII

Festival of St. John the Baptist— Water-throwing— Morning mass- Church of La Exaltacion de la Santa Cruz—" Macheteros," or Soldiers of the Cross — Decrease of the Indians of the Beni — Suggestions for the re-population of the department — A crew for Trinidad obtained with difficulty — Desertion of an Indian lad- Landslip and dangers of the port of Exaltacion — Changes in the courses of the rivers — Richness of the soil — Prices of provisions 12 8

Chapter XIX

Leave Exaltacion — Improvement in crew — Mobima Indians of Santa Ana— "Mani" planted on sandbanks— The river Yacuma — Trading up the Yacuma to Reyes, San Pablo, San Borja, etc. — Multitudes of mosquitoes, etc.— Shoal of fish— Storks, ducks, flamingoes— Canichana Indians— The river Apiri and the village of San Ignacio — Poling over the shallows — The river Jamucheo — San Pedro — Traders haul their canoes over a portage to San Pedro — Weather turns very cold — The river Ybari— Arrival at Trinidad 139

Chapter XX

Pampas of Trinidad — Oxen of the Beni — Merchants of Trinidad — Carayanas — Cholos — Indios — Chicha, general drink in Bolivia — Baile and Spanish dance — Bolivian drinking — Bolivian peculiarities— The old maid's black cat — Smallpox amongst the Indians — Depopulation of Trinidad — Wages of the peons — Drills, hammocks, shirts, and hats made by Indians — Prices of provisions — Trade in Trinidad — Depreciated currency — Melgarejos ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 151

Chapter XXI

Start from Trinidad with convoy of nine canoes — Hacienda de San Antonio — Shifting of the river's course — The river Secure — Bella Vista, the port of Loreto — Siriono savages — State and ceremony in preparation of meals — Excellent character of Bolivian chocolate — Junction of the river Grande — River Piray — The

CONTENTS. Xlll

PAGE

Mamore" left, and the Chapari entered — The Chimore route to Coni preferable to that of the Chapari — Class of steamers suitable for the Upper Mamore — Difficulties of navigation in the Chapari — Scarcity of game — Number of Indians available in Trinidad for navigation of the upper rivers — The raya fish — Jaguars — Mountain ranges approached — Bamboo trees seen — The river Coni 165

Chapter XXII

Coni and its trade — Yuracare Indians — Their bark shirts, ornaments, and dyes — Musical instruments — Tradition of Cain and Abel — Difference between the Indians of the interior and those of the plains — Bravery of the Yuracares — Start from Coni — Pachimoco — River San Antonio — Cristal Maio — Continuous rains — Zinc-roofed houses — Coca plantations — Minas Maio — Metalliferous character of district — Coffee and cotton — El Chaco — Cuesta of Lina Tambo — Los Jocotales — Inca Corral — Cuesta de Malaga — Snowstorms 185

Chapter XXIII

Total change in the appearance of nature — Cochi-janchi — Barley and potatoes — Chuno — Road to Coni by Bandiola — Sacaba — Approach to Cochabamba — Tambos — Apartments — The city and people — Luxuriously furnished houses — Fruits, flowers, and grain crops — Douche baths — Alameda, or public garden — Sweets and ices — Tertulias and rocking-chairs — Commercial firms and their trade — Cascarilla, or cinchona bark — Hospitality of foreign residents and others — Moonlight ride — Climate — Want of sanitary arrangements — Mineral wealth of the district ... ... 212

Chapter XXIV

Shortest route to the Pacific coast from Cocbabamba — Journey to Sucre via Totora determined upon — Leave Cochabamba in one of Haviland and Keay's coaches — Dangers of the journey — - Tarata and Cliza — The pampas compared to the plains of Central India — Punata — Senor Manuel Arauco, his house, family, museum, etc. — Manufacture of felt hats, ponchos, etc. — Arani — Lagoons near Vacas — Irrigation works — New road between Arani and Totora — Pocona — Totora — Proposed road from Totora to the river Chimore — Probable future system of roads in the east of Bolivia — Misque — Ravines and river-courses used as roads — Aiquile — Chinguri — Quiroga — Palca — Cuestas Jaboncillo and Masa-Cruz — Canto Molino — Thermal spring of Huata — First view of Sucre 237

XIV CONTENTS.

Chapter XXV. Page

Sucre — Seat of the Government — Court of Justice and Archbishopric — Cathedral — Image of " Our Lady of Guadalupe " — Plate and pictures — Revolting character of the pictures — The clergy of Bolivia — Palacio del Gobierno — Sala del Congreso — Deputies and Debates — Treaty with Chili — Diplomatic body — Politics and parties — Quintin Quevedo — Casimir Corral— Sack of his house in La Paz — Rojos, or Ballivianistas — Hilarion Daza — Schemes for roads to the river Paraguay — River Amazon v. river Paraguay — Remarks upon the finances of Bolivia — Results to be expected from the enterprise of the Madeira and Mamore Railway — Closing of Congress — The Bolivian flag — Revolution of 1874 — Defeat of Quevedo and Corral, and deposition of Frias by Daza 260

Chapter XXVI

The Prado of Sucre — Belzu's Rotunda — The President's evening constitutional— Personal politics — Quevedo's birthday banquet- Dancing with the general — Ball at the Chilian Embassy — Baile caramba ! — Environs of Sucre — La Paz not visited on account of revolution in progress— Routes to ocean and home — Santa Cruz, Curumba, and the Paraguay — Oran and the Vermejo — Tarija and Cinti — Cinti wines and spirits — Cobija and Desert of Atacama — Silver mines of Caracoles, etc. — Encroachments by Chili — Official report on the Desert of Atacama, published by the Government of Chili — Description of the road to Tacna and Arica commenced — Preparations for journey — Servants and their pay — " Postas" — Buying and selling mules — A few requisites for a land journey 204

Chapter XXVII

Leave Sucre under escort of English residents — Village of Nutshucc — Yotala — " Quintas," or farmhouses — Don Tomas Frias' countryhouse — Senor Pacheco's quinta — The river Cachimayo and its basket bridge — Fever at Nutshucc — The river Pilcomayo — Terrado and Pampa-tambo — Quebrada Honda — Bartolo — Potosi — The Soroche — The Fonda Coca — The Cerro de Potosi — Silver mines — Reservoirs — Church of La Matriz — The mint — New coinage — Burying money — Future of mining in Potosi — Departure from Potosi — Tarapaya — Yocalla — Yocalla bridge built by the devil in a night — Lenas — Loss of my aneroid barometer — Vicunas — Condors — Lagunillas — Tolapalca — Bolivian Norfolk- Howards, or Vinchutas — Vilcapujio — Curious custom of Indian women — Llamas and alpacas — Ancacata — The pampaof Aullagas — The "Chulpas " — Catariri, Pazna and Poopo — Miserable appearance of mining towns in Bolivia — Machacamarca — Rumours of revolution — Beautiful mirage — Arrival at Oruro 313

CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXVIII. Page

Oruro — Mineral districts and mining operations — " Barilla " — Freighting ore by llamas — Future of mining in Oruro — Attempted revolution in Oruro — Night attack on the Quartel — Start from Oruro for Tacna — The river Desaguadero — The ferry called La Barca — Llollia — Escape of the mules during night — Indian cooking arrangements — Dress and appearance of Indian men and women — El Cruzero — "Quinoa" — Heavy storms — Electrified state of the atmosphere — Peculiar strata observed near El Cruzero — Curahuara de Carangas — Its church, people, and parish priest — Travelling jewellers — Mining prospects of the district ... 348

Chapter XXIX

Pichagas — The peak of Sahama — Chocos — Capture of a sheep for fresh meat — Ostriches — Sepulturas— Mortality amongst animals — Mule attacked with belly pains — El Cerro del Volcan — Las Siete Vueltas — Bright-coloured hills — Peru entered — Tacora — Mules attacked with soroche — El Rio de Azufre — Aqueduct to Tacna from river Maury — The pass of Chulancani — Apacheta of bones — Aspect of the Pacific slope of the Andes — Projected railway between Tacna and La Paz — The Portada — El Ingenio — Palca — New road in construction — Arrival at Tacna — The hotel Bola de Oro — Tacna and its trade — Attempt to sell the mules in Tacna — Railway from Tacna to Arica — Effects of the great hurricane wave of 1869 — Arica — By steamer from Arica to Callao — Callao — Its magnificent harbour — Lima — The cathedral — Plaza de Armas — Old bridge, built in 1608 — Firemen — By steamer from Lima to Panama — Payta — Panama — Severe fires — The prison — Rail to Aspinwall — A spin wall — Home by mail steamer ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 371

Appendix 399

LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

Map ...... Frontispiece

San Antonio — River Madeira (looking down Stream) *

Garitea, or Traveller's Canoe, River Madeira *

Cascara, or Bark Canoe of the Caripunas and other tribes of the River Madeira* .....

Curious Inscriptions on Rocks at different Rapids

Indian Girl of Exaltacion * . . .

The Bata* ......

Sketches of Trinitario Indians*

Necklace of Bright Red Beans *

Group of Bolivian Musical Instruments, etc.*

Author, and Yuracare Indians .

View of Cochabamba .....

Sucre, or Chuquisaca, Capital of Bolivia

General Quevedo .....

President Frias .....

El Cerro de Potosi .....

A Chulpa *.....

Quichuan Oven (Llollia) * . . .

Quichuan Woman of Llollia *

Pass of Tacora .

La Portada . . ...

Angostura .

25 33

From a sketch by the Author.

UP THE

AMAZON AND MADEIRA RIVERS.

Chapter I

Brazilian coast — True and false Salinas — Dangers of the mouth of the Amazon— Para— Steamers on the Amazon — Amazon Steam Shipping Company, Limited — Vicinity of Para — European residents — Climate.

After about twenty days' steaming from Liverpool with southerly and westerly courses, the low-lying coast of the north of Brazil appears, and navigators who are not acquainted with the locality have considerable trouble in making out the pilot station of the Salinas.

The false Salinas are about half a day's steam to the east of the true, which, again, are a few hours' steam from the mouth of the Amazon Eiver. At the true Salinas there is a lighthouse and a small village, a large red house, visible from the deck of the steamer, being the barrack in which the pilots for Para live.

The steamer in which I had a passage had been chartered specially for the conveyance of the railway staff to which I belonged. The captain knew nothing at all of the spot to which he had undertaken to navigate his ship, and took the vessel considerably to the east of the Salinas ; we were therefore a night and a day coasting about in soundings. At dark, a slight gale gave the sea the most phosphorescent appearance that, in the course of a good many voyages, I have yet seen. Every wave, as it curled over, broke in vivid phosphorescent fire, and it appeared as though we were steaming through a sea of flaming spirits.

The mouth of the river Amazon has many shifting banks and reefs of which no accurate information exists, and vessels are frequently lost in attempting to get up to Para without a pilot. In 1873, three vessels, laden with iron for the Madeira and Mamore railway, were lost, one after another, on the reefs near the Braganza lightship, which had shifted from her moorings and remained away from her station for many months. More pilots are required at the station of Salinas, for it has often happened that captains of vessels have got tired of beating about, waiting for a pilot to come off, and have attempted to enter the river alone, only to lose their vessels and cargoes.

The river Para may be termed an outlet or arm of the river Amazon, and on its right bank the city of Para is situated. The land on the left bank of the river forms the island of Marajo, which appears to be subject to periodical inundations, but is valuable as a feeding-ground for cattle. The rise and fall of the river at Para is about twenty feet at highest tides.

In front of the city the river affords splendid anchorage for almost any amount of shipping, but

UP THE AMAZON AND MADEIRA BIVERS. 3

the wharfage is very badly arranged, as there is no pier or jetty at which vessels can unload, consequently much time is lost in transhipping cargoes from the vessels into launches, and from these to the wharves. The practice has been to build out these wharves into the river at low water ; and as each successive wharf has been completed, the river has silted up its frontage, and so rendered necessary the building of a new one further out. The " Eua da Praia," which doubtless was the " Street of the Shore " some fifty years ago, is now the third line back from the river, and so the city is extending itself out into the water instead of backwards into the country. A wharf on screw piles, and a jetty with a cross-head wharf at its end, would probably not cause the silting, and would not cost more, while it would be more durable than the badly built stone walls that are now from time to time put up in front of each other.

The bay of Para presents a cheerful aspect, from the number of vessels generally found there. The Red Cross line, owned and admirably maintained by Messrs. Singlehurst, Brocklehurst & Co., of Liverpool, Booth's line, Garrison's and another American line between Brazil and New York, all touch at Para, and the Amazon Steam Shipping Company, Limited, always have some of their steamers lying in front of the wharves. The trade of the Amazon valley is already sufficient to maintain a considerable number of steamers in the river, the finest and largest of which, built by Messrs. Laird and Co. of Birkenhead, were formerly owned by the Baron Maua. The Baron sold his steamers and workshops, with the subventions from the Brazilian Government to the Amazon Steam Shipping Company, Limited, formed in London a few years ago. This company, being desirous of maintaining its purchased monopoly of the trade of the Amazon, has bought up the two Brazilian companies that also traded on the river. One was called the " Fluvial Paraense," and traded from Para to Manaos, and to several small towns on the islands near Para. This company's boats were all built by Messrs. Pusey, Jones & Co., of Delaware, on American principles, with cabins on upper deck, and are very suitable for river navigation. The other company was the " Alta Amazonas Company," owners of three or four small steamers, built by Laird & Co., that traded on the upper waters of the Amazon, and on its confluents — the Madeira, Purus, and Rio Negro. There are also several other steamers on the river, owned by private firms, which pick up all the freights left by, and even give great opposition to, the powerful English company. A new enterprise has lately been started in London, with the object of placing tugs and barges on the Amazon, and the Madeira and Mamore Railway Company will doubtless run its own craft between Para and San Antonio, the terminus of its railway on the Madeira River. The Amazon, therefore, is likely in future years to bear a considerable increase of steam shipping on its broad bosom, for attention seems to be almost universally directed to the magnificent facilities that it offers, for the ready export to the European markets of the produce of Northern Brazil, Peru, and Bolivia.

The city of Para has not much to boast of in architecture ; nevertheless, from the river, it has an imposing appearance, from the number of its churches. The convent of San Merced and the president's palace, amongst old buildings, and the new theatre, a very elegant structure, are all worthy of notice. The streets are mostly broad and well paved, fairly lighted with gas by an English company, and kept decently clean. There is a very good market-place, and water is now being laid on to every house. Excellent hired carriages ply, at moderate prices, for the accommodation of the richer city merchants; while a tramway, worked by a locomotive and cars, takes the humbler individual out to join his family circle in the cooler districts of Nazareth, a very pretty suburb of Para, where the principal merchants have built many elegant villa residences. As most of the roads run down avenues of very handsome palm trees, the effect of the whole is charming. There are also two public gardens, maintained with a good deal of taste.

The Europeans resident in Para are extremely hospitable, and the staff of engineers and others to which I was attached, took away with them to the solitudes of the Madeira River most grateful recollections of the kindness, attention, and good wishes bestowed on them during their stay in Para, more especially by the English and German consuls.

Para does not enjoy a very good reputation for its climate, but I do not think it is so bad as is generally supposed. It has a fair alternation of wet and dry seasons, and the air is so pure that it is said that persons suffering from consumption rapidly recover after a short stay there. Yellow fever and small-pox sometimes linger a long time amongst the lower classes, being maintained a good deal, I believe, by the exhalations at low tides from the silted-up mud in front of the river wall. As I have said, it is probable that this silting up could in future be avoided by erecting a screw-piled pier instead of a wharf wall ; and if the country behind the town were cleared further inland, the plague of mosquitoes might be materially decreased.

A trip up the Amazon is extremely pleasant, for the steamers of the Amazon company are commanded by very accomplished and amiable Brazilian captains. The table is very fairly found for one that can accustom himself to Brazilian cookery, and a liberal ration of Portugese " vino verde " is supplied to passengers. The upper deck, covered with a doubleplanked water-tight awning which protects one from the hot sun, affords an agreeable lounge during the clay, whilst at night it forms the general dormitory where each passenger slings his hammock and mosquito net, if he has been thoughtful enough to provide himself with these indispensable articles of a travelling equipment for Brazil.

UP TEE AMAZON AND MADEIRA BIVERS.

Chapter II

Bay of Marajo — Lighthouses — Rule of the road for steamers — Vegetation on the Amazon — Rubber trees — Boa Vista — Corralinha — Breves — Parainha — Gurupa — Mont Alegre — Cattle-feeding grounds — River Tapajoz — Santarem — American settlers — Obidos — Manufacture of charqui — Villa Bella — Serpa — Navigation of the Amazon.

The start up river is generally made from Para soon after midnight, in order that the wide estuary termed the Bay of Marajo may be passed before noon of the following day, as the trade wind that sets in towards the afternoon raises too high a sea for the steamers built with overhanging main decks.

In the immediate neighbourhood of Para there are some sugar plantations and brick and tile factories, which have a pretty appearance on the river banks, but as soon as the steamer passes the bay and gets into the narrow channels which are at the junction of the river Para and the main stream of the Amazon, the sceneiy becomes flat and monotonous. There are several well-kept lighthouses on the banks of the bay and on the islands therein, but more will be required as the navigation increases. Some of the channels through which the steamers work their way are so narrow, that there is hardly room for two steamers to pass each other in them ; some are therefore used for the ascending journey only, while others serve for the downward passage ; and so well is this " rule of the road" kept by the Brazilian pilots and captains, that collisions are of very rare occurrence. On the main river the rule is that ascending steamers should keep to either bank, by preference the right, whilst descending: steamers have the centre of the river and the full force of the current let free for them.

The islands and the mainland in the lower part of the Amazon are covered with a dense vegetation, almost impassable by any living being but the tapir, or " anta " as it is there called, the lianas and water plants being closely intertwined and growing amongst the lofty trees of the forest. In these low-lying lands a considerable population of Brazilian, Portuguese, negroes and half-castes live, their occupation being entirely confined to the collecting of the rubber for which the city of Para is famous. This tree (Siphonia elasticd) grows in groups, small paths called " estradas " being cut through the localities where it most abounds. The lands being mostly subject to flooding at high water, all the houses are built upon piles ; and as no cultivation can be carried on, the dwellers therein are entirely dependent on the steamers for their supplies of provisions. Nearly every house has a small wharf projecting out into the river, to which the steamers can haul up and receive the firewood prepared for them, or take in the rubber, on their return journeys to Para. In consequence of the daily flooding of these lands, it is not strange that the people have a washed-out and sallow look, and appear to suffer greatly from fever and ague.