Underground Jerusalem: an account of some of the principal difficulties encountered in its exploration and the results obtained. With a narrative of an expedition through the Jordan Valley and a visit to the Samaritans

Front matter

Oriental Bookseller

41 Gt. Russell

Street

Chapter I. I N T U O D U C T O R Y

Small beginnings of the Palestine Exploration Fund— Its pro gress — Exertions of Mr. Walter Besaut — Insufficiency of funds — Contradiction between instructions and the Permit of the Pacha — Instructions of the Fund carried out — Managing the Moslem — The attitude of the Governor of Jerusalem — His appointment and character — A . middle course— Successful conciliation of the sects— Help from the Consul-General at Beyrout — Cold criticism — Mr. Fergusson's theory refuted by facts — Advantage of the publication of the progress of discoveries in full detail— An appeal for funds to the ladies of England

Chapter II. Palestine

The exposed condition of the coasts of Palestine — Ancient ports — ■ Diificulty experienced by the Charlotte, in 1867— Incidents of the voyage — Ancient associations with Jaffa — Interest of the site — Reference to it by Josephus — Landing— The house of a Syrian gentleman — Bargaining for horses — Coins — The climate of Jafiii — Failure of the American colony there— Ill-treatment of the colonists by the Turks and their own agents — Jaffa and Andromeda — Jaffa and St. Peter's vision— Ludd, the ancient Lydda— Moslem belief respecting it — Eamleh, the ancient Arimathrea — Lady travellers — An ancient copy of the Pentateuch— Arrival at Jerusalem — Two views . . 21 vm CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE III.

JERUSALEM.

PAGE

Description of Palestine — Probable former condition of the Jordan Valley — The mountain range of Western Palestine — The journeys of Abraham and Jacob — The climate — Fevers due to rapid changes in temperature — Palestioe likened to Wales— Its population— Delay in the arrival of the firman — The English Consul's advice — A limited permission to work obtained from the Pacha — Several sites of ancient cities more conspicuous than Jerusalem — The stronghold of Zion, the characteristic feature of Jerusalem — Its disappearance— Removal of topographical difficulties by the identification of its site, and the replacement of the " little hill " — The vision of Ezekiel and Zechariah — The hills — The position of the ancient city — The modern city — The ancient walls and towers — The destruction wrought by the siege of Titus — Preservation of the garden . . .40

Chapter IV. The Temple

The Temple of Jerusalem as described by Josephns— The directions given by King David to Solomon — Solomon begins to build the Temple — The quadrangular court — Solomon's porch, the border of Jerusalem — The jialace of Solomon and its destruction — " Herod's Temple " — The wonderful walls of the great inclosure — The cisterns — A comparison of dimensions and resources— Strabo's account of Jerusalem — Tacitus on the strength of its walls — Comparative dimensions — The great causeway — The gates — The Eoyal Cloisters— The Castle of Antonia — Its extraordinary strength — The Talmudic account of the Temple— Dimensions of the Holy House— The Golden Gate — Additions and alterations made by the Roman Emperors — Facility of identification — The author's abstinence from controversy ......... 58

Chapter V. Visits In Jerusalem

Jerusalem a city of contradictions — Its asjiect in tlie time of Titus — The city of to-day — The city of the future — A hotel in the Holy City — The traders from Bethlehem — Bethlehem carvings — An eccentric and unsatisfactory inn-keeper — Arbitrary charges— Travellers in Palestine — American tourists —

CONTENTS. IX

PACK

The method adopted towards their clergy by American congregations, and its worthiness of imitation in England — Insignificance of English influence — Izzet Pasha— His determination to thwart the author's purpose — The author obliged to keep on good terms with him — The Anglican bishop in Jerusalem — His difficult position — Christian interests in Jerusalem— Schools — Connection between Greek and Anglican Churches — Services in English, German, and Arabic — The Jewish Mission and its converts — Dr. Chaplin — Sister Charlotte from Kaiser swerth— The German Orphanage . . .82

CHAPTER YI.

DESEET OF JUDAH.

Delay in the arrival of instnunents — The author arranges for an excursion among the Bedouin — The expedition starts for Bethlehem— The hill country — A casual congregation — The Kidi-on — Food — The hill tomb of Nimrod — The purple wall of Moab — Druses, and their antics — The convent of Mar Saba — Eeturn to Jerusalem by the southern gate — The author starts again for the camp — A dinner in a desert tent — Leben — Photographing the wilderness of Judah — An extortionate Arab — Physical peculiarities of the Arabs of the desert — A tempest — The aqueducts—The Pools of Solomon— The Sealed Fountain— The Frank Mountain — The Gardens of Urtas — The Cave of Khureitun — Its resemblance to the description of the Cave of Adullam — The author's doubt of the suggestion of Josephus . Ill

CHAPTEE YII.

EAKLY EXCAVATIONS.

The excavations are commenced — Anger of the Sheikh — Historical reminiscences of the eastern gate of Herod's Temple— Saint James " the Just " — The Sheikh of Siloam — Interference of the Military Pacha — The Vizier's letter— Exclusion from the Noble Sanctuary — A happy mistake, and how the author profited by it — Overthrow of Mr. Fevgusson's theory by the results of the excavations — Opposition of the Pacha, and want of money and implements militate against the work— Serious operations commenced in 1871— The people of Siloam — Incapacity of the Nubian and other workmen, and accidents arising therefrom — Nervous affections among the workmen— The merits of Corporal Birtles— Difficulty of procuring stores — Progress of excavations — Fresh items added to our knowledge of old Jerusalem . . I4U

a 3

X CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE VIII.

JERICHO.

PAGE

A Syrian body-guard and their notions of duty— The Demetrius of Abu Dis— Uselessness of a fixed rule for travellers in Palestine —The hill country— The wadies between Jerusalem and Jericho —The parable of the man who fell among thieves— Disappearance of the road between the City of Palms and Jerusalem— The aqueduct across Wady Kelt— The convent of the Kelt— The atmosphere of Jericho— Baseless hopes— The Valley of the Jordan — Its naked and barren mountains— The lower plain — Constant shifting of the river within historical times— The overflow at harvest time— The tribes of the Valley— Their dances— Wanderings in the plain— Curious pottery— Photographing the aqueducts— The site of Jericho marked by a solitary palm .......•• 162

CHAPTER IX.

THE MOUNDS OF JERICHO.

The Caves of Kuruntul — Quarantana, the traditional site of Our Lord's temptation— An abode in the hills— A Christian dervish — The lower cells and the later hermits — Prevalence of venomous insects — Climate of the Valley of the Jordan — The hornets — The tells — Excavation commenced— Its results — Crumbling jars — Disappearance of all objects found on their disinterment — Several mounds excavated— Mounds probably the remains of ancient castles — Eoman Jericho is still hopelessly hidden — A ruin on the supposed ancient site of Gilgal — The author's incredulity — His incredulity is afterwards justified— A murder among the Bedouin of the Ghor — Terror and flight of native women on seeing the explorers— Arrival at the .Jordan — A new camping-ground — The site of the Temptation —The supposed fortress of a Crusader — The coney and its habits — Illness of the author — Arrival at Nablus . . .185

CHAPTER X.

SAMARITANS.

Preparations for visiting the Samaritans on Mount Gcrizim —The Samaritans so few that they are denied a seat on the town council — Numbers of the different creeds in Nablus — The

CONTENTS. XI

PACit

Moslems ten to cue — Carping spirit of all — The interest of Nablus centres in the Samaritans — Their distinguishing marks and colours — Who are these people? — The account given by Josephus — The celebration of the Passover on Mount Gerizim by the Samaritans — Nablus, or Shechem, in the history of Syria — Moslem tradition resiiecting the burial of Josej^h — Abundant water in Nablus — Loveliness of the situation — The tomb of Joseph and the well of Jacob — The Mount of Blessing and the ruins of the Tcmj^le of the Samaritans — The Holy of Holies — The place of Jacob's dream — Extraordinary ceremonies of the Samaritan Passover — Subsequent quarrels — Amram the priest — The Turkish Mosque in Nablus — Samaritan claims to immense antiquity — The roll of the Pentateuch — A valuable relic, and an inadequate reward ...... 20G

CHAPTER XL

KUEN SIJRTABEH.

The descent of Gerizim — A recalcitrant Sheikh — A glorious view of the Jordan Valley — A large camp — A wedding — Across the desolate plain — Too late for the gorgeous colouring of the plain — The course of the river — The theory of Kurn Surtabeh — Lieut. Conder's opinion — The argument against it — The author's theory — A Eoman bridge — The Sheikh again — A fantasia by the fellaliin — The five fords of the Jordan — Their history and identification — The author's conclusion that Our Lord's baptism took place in Judea and not in Galilee . . 2.SC.

CHAPTER XII.

ATTENDANT DANGERS.

A false alarm — Hide-and-seek — The cultivation of the Ghur — Difference in reports caused by changes of weather — Flocks and pasturage — The Gawarineh — The Upper and Lower Plains — Rainfall — An adventure — A plague of earwigs — Abusive Bedouin — Es Sumrah — Sultan and his blood feud — Changes in the names of the wadies — Taiyibeh — Exc-avations at the camp of Es Sumrah — Discovery, and sudden fading of frescoes — Cedar-wood roof, now at South Kensington — The reputed tomb of Moses according to Moslem tradition — Contest of opinion concerning the position of Pisgah — Ancient convent at Neby M<isa — Return to Jerusalem — Dcsposition of Izzet Pacha — A lapse of three months — The author settles permanently at Jerusalem, ......... 264

2^11 CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE XIII.

DIFFICULTIES.

PAGE

Turkish bad faith — DiflSculties thrown in the way of the explorer — The broken promises of Fuad Pacha — Diificulties made in England — The author obliged to prosecute the dragoman of the English Consulate — The history of the case — A " Eraser/' or secret court — The trial — The defence— Dismissal of the dragoman— The British residents tender thanks to the prosecutor — The consulates ready to aid in the work — A nice and knotty point of Turkish etiquette — Chibouk or cigarette — The workmen opposed in the Upper City — Appeal to the consul — Sergeant Birtles arrested by order of Nazif Pacha — The Turks alarmed at threatened consequences — The sergeant released — The author insists on a written acknowledgment of the error — Attempts at cajolery by the Pacha — They prove useless, and the Pacha yields — The Sanatorium — Progress of the works — Visit of the Military Pacha — The road 286

CHAPTEE XIV.

THE ROYAL CLOISTEE.

Vexations — Delays in remittances and letters — Death of a pet leopard — Eesults of excavations — Discovery of the remains of the Xystus— Antiochus Epij^hanes — Possible site of the gymnasium gardens — The discovery of the pier of the great arch — The tactics of Titus — His orders for the destruction of the Temple difficult to execute — Mr. Eergusson in error — The author's claim to have correctly defined the site of the Temple — The addition by Herod — A lamp found in the aqueduct — The possibility that the knowledge of bridging by means of the arch was of Asiatic, not Italian origin — The author s impression — Discovery of a drain enabling the exjolorers to reach the Wailing Place of the Jews — The way stopi^ed by a house — Eesume of discoveries — Aqueduct of extraordinary construction 310

CHAPTEE XV.

DISCOVERIES.

A disheartening position — Insolvency of the expedition suspected in Syria — Showing a bold front — A satisfactory telegram — The " Fund " in reality a " Debt "—A fresh departure— A ludicrous circumstance — Friendly Americans — A conspiracy against Turkish rule — The author obliged to clear himself of supposed

CONTENTS. xiu

PAGE

complicity — Commencement of excavations Avithin the Temple area — The author's successful persuasion of the Moslems to allow him to dig in the Double Passage — Sacreclness of this Praying Place — A guard kept outside — Inmates of the Sanctuary— Danger of discovery — The results — The "Tomb of Aaron's sons " according to Moslem tradition — Negative results — Eamadan — Exhaustion of the men through hunger and cold — An expedient, and its failure — An expedition into a sewer — Ajipreciation of the exploit in England — A Turkish execution 335

CHAPTEE XVI.

Arrivals at Jerusalem with the new year (1868) — A native artist—- Number of Jews in Jerusalem — Distribution of Jews all over the world — The Sejihardim — The Caraites — The Ashkenazim — Suggested origin of the appellation — Eussian arrangements with Palestine — The hallukah — Jewish candour — Good feeling towards England — The expectation of Israel — The projDhecy of the third fountain — Interest of the Jews in the excavations — Variety of types among the Jews — The Wailing Place as it was — A scene there — Indecorous conduct of Frank visitors — A chaos of ruin — Discovery of an arch — Explanation of work in this quarter— A visit to the vaults by a party of learned Jews — Numerous Frank visitors — Enthusiasm and happy results to the Fund — A curious letter of apology .... 355

CHAPTEE XVII.

NAZiF PACHA.

An earthquake — The Holy City never sleeps — The blame of the general insecurity laid upon the excavators — The Pacha prohibits the works — The author disregards the prohibition — Claim of the Cadi, and triumphant refutation of it — A theft and a reconciliation — Tricks, and ojjen opposition — Absolute necessity of excluding the Turkish Government from a share in the undertaking — Digging without leave — The owners of the soil quite content — Mischievous perception that they can make more money by opposition — Abu Saud's complaint — Effendis sent to inspect — All but one afraid to venture down — Eobinson's Arch — The progress of the difficulty— Official Correspondence— The author visits England — A permament secretary appointed — The author returns to Palestine — Illness and anxiety .......... 380

'"iiv CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE XVIII.

THE SAKHRAH.

PACE

PlCcasant beginning of the year 1869— Insufficient sums for bakshish— Discovery of the north wall of the Temple of Herod — Impossibility of following it up — Unremitting vigilance of the Pacha — Nazif Pacha a devout Moslem — A new year festival — The sacred rock — The author sees something important— Secret preparations for visiting the great dome — The attemi)t made — Aid from three ladies — A great effort — An exciting situation — A cutting in the rock — The author's solution — Arrival of Dr. William Eussell— The Consuls and the author— Mr. Simpson's sketches— The " Eob Eoy"— The Marquis of Bute and Monsignor Capel — A princely donation — The stables of Solomon — Mr. Fergusson's theory of the east wall of the Temple disproved — Mr. Emanuel Deutsch — Nazif Pacha's question, "What is the British Museum?"— The old wall of Ophel — Incised stones 399

CHAPTEE XIX.

THE HOLY FIRE.

The so-called "miracle" at the Holy Sepulchre on Easter-eve — Is it kept up as a political demonstration? — Pilgrims — The native Christians' belief in the Sacred Fire — Date of the first "miracle " — Use of it in the reign of Baldwin— It is now the one great miracle play of the Eastern Churches— Sir John Maucdeville's account — Ecstasies of the pilgrims — The author's account of the ceremonial of Easter — Origin of the Sacred Fire — Fierce excitement of the people — Easter eggs — Absolute refusal by the Sultan of permission for the author to explore the Noble Sanctuary — A visit from the Pacha — The question of supplying Jerusalem with water — The author's accoimt of the operations written at the time — A visit to Solomon's Pools in 1868 . . 425

CHAPTEE XX.

RESOURCES OF PALESTINE.

The abiding curse u2)ou Palestine — Propliecies — Practical results of the present condition of the country — Aid to be had for any other undertaking than those projected in Palestine — Its claims — A false sentiment envelopes the subject — It is regarded in a religious aspect only — Establishment of German influence

CONTENTS. XV

VAC.F.

there — Need of England in Palestine— The reasons why the conntry is so unfruitful and unhealthy — Its requirements for the overcoming of these evils — Proofs that a good government, a larger population, an energetic people, and capital are needed — Badness of the present government — Eottenness of the foundation — The present phase of the Moslem religion admits of no prosperity — A review of Moslem riile in the Holy Land— The Arabs' case as hard as that of the Christians — Condition of the fellahin — The face of the country — Its products— Its climatc^Clotbing the hills with verdure — The sand hills — Heat in the Jordan Valley — Precautions — The turban — Danger of chill ......... 446

CHAPTER XXI.

RESOURCES OF PALESTINE.

Insufficiency of population — Richness of soil — Loss of population by war — Speedy remarriage of soldiers' widows — Proposals for the colonisation of Palestine — Farmers required — Barbary and Morocco Jews desirable colonists — Their qualities — Their attachment to the English — The present people of Palestine — Their docility — Difference between native Moslems and native Christians— Scenes at the Chiirch of the Holy Sepulchre — ■ Anomalies — Who are the Syrians of Palestine ? — Anecdote of a Greek, a Moslem, a Native, and the author — Honey or treacle — The author vindicates the accuracy of the Scriptural version — Syrian sheep — Curious customs of the shepherds — Sheep fed on leaves — Milk— Palestine a land of wheat and barley, vines, f]g-trees, and pomegranates — Miserable remnant of profit left to the people — Barns in Palestine — The palm no longer a characteristic of Palestine — The oak — The vine — Making of wine by the Christians — Grapes on sandstone formation — Remains of vineyards — Locusts — Their ravages in Palestine comparatively small — No roads in Palestine except that leading from JatRi to Jerusalem — A plea for the Holy Land . . 468

CHAPTER XXIL

TRADES IN JERUSALEM.

The industry of Jerusalem— Table of trades, arranged according to creeds — The Ashkenazim — Future embarrassment likely to arise from this mendicant race^ — Some trades confined to particular sects— Comparative lists — The Suk el Bazar — The

XVI CONTENTS.

PAGE

Suk el Bir— The Suk Lahamen — Christian Street — Necessity for the merchants to conceal their wealth — Improvidence of the Protestants in Jerusalem — Barbarous dealing with goods at the customs gate — 111 treatment of market women by soldiers and customs men — Oil — Trade at Bethlehem— Soap-making — Olive-ti-ees — Alkali — Description of a soap factory — Mode of mamifacture — Indigo dyeing— Stone-cutters— Potteries — A record left by Herodotus — Clays used in the potteries — i\Ianufacture of glass at Hebron — The market places of Jerusalem — Costume, and its influence — A son of the desert in his native attire — The same in European clothing 490

CHAPTEE XXIII.

THE MOABITE STONE.

Disorders in Jerusalem in 1869 — The Bank robbed — Freemasonry — Eemoval of Nazif Pacha — The author in the Lebanon — Visit to Jerusalem of the Crown Prince of Prussia — Visit to Jerusalem of the Emperor of Austria — Cross purposes — An original notion of an Emperor's requirements — The author lands at Jaffa, and starts for Jerusalem though ill with fever — Suiferings on the way, and lasting results — Work recommenced at north-east angle of the Noble Santuary — Erroneous opinion prevailing respecting the rock features — The Birket Israil — The Valley Kidron — Perilous excavation close to the Moslem buryiug-ground — The workmen strike the Sanctuary Wall — Discovery of a passage in the old wall of Haram Area — What the wall is — What the pool probably is —The author's task draws near its conclusion — Correspondence on the subject of the Moabite Stone — Misapprehension of the author's account of his actions with regard to the stone — The fraganents given away to France — The author's "gi'ievance" — He resigns his charge — Departure from Jerusalem — A brave little girl — A sad funeral — Last days at Jaffa— A real remedy for fever . 522

CHAPTEE XXIV.

Conclusion

Peculiar diflBculties attendant on excavations at Jerusalem — The mere act of digging excites uneasiness in the people — They are not brought up to trust anybody — The system adopted essentially a bad one — The excavations at Eome conducted on a different plan, and the workmen there immolested — Advantage

CONTENTS. xvii

PAGE

of the author's not having worked under Government — He is free to speak liis mind to the public— Suggestions for future undertakings of a similar nature— Money for two years' supply should be collected beforehand — The agent's reports should be attended to — He should have a good staff, and a position which the Pacha, if a fanatic, will recognise — The work will be best carried out by a private society — Nothing should be published while the work is in progress— All plans should be made on the spot — A complete record should be published when the work is done — Suggestion for the establishment oif a Biblical Museum — Need of arrangement at South Kensington — The next attemjjt should be made in the Temple Area — Future of the Palestine Exploration Fund. .... 551

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Jews' Wailino Place .

Sketch of Jerusalem in the Time of YEsrAsiAN

The Temple of Herod ....

Haeam Area, or Noble Sanctuary Robinson's Arch .....

Shaft, S.E. Angle ....

Incised Characters ....

Stone C of Second course of Eastern' Wat

Plan of Jordan Valley

Pottery Trade-Mark .

Plan of Gerizim .....

Samaritans at Prayer ....

Ford over the Jordan

Lamp (Robinson's Arch)

VoussoiR of fallen Arch

Seal of Haggai .....

Rock-cut Passage above Virgin's Fountain

Lamp (Virgin's Fountain)

ashkenazim ......

Wilson's Arch (View) ....

Capital of Pilaster, Masonic Hall

Old Gate : Eastern End of Vault C (Causeway)

FrontiSj

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LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS.

Base of Column ....

Gallery at S.E. Angle of Sanctuary

Incised Characters

Painted Characters .

Ancient Marks on Handles of Vases

Gallery at Golden Gate .

Newly discovered Passage in the old wall of Haram Area

PAGE

UNDERGROUND JERUSALEM.

Chapter I. Introductory

The Palestine Exploration Fund is now so firmly and strongly established as a society in this country, its connections so numerous and powerful, its work so thoroughly appreciated far and wide, in Europe and America, that few who know and admire its labours can look back at its small beginnings, so short a time ago, without feeling gratified that it should have got past its term of struggle and difficulty to which it was subject, and have made a real start in a life of honour and usefulness ; few, who think of the great object it has in view, can doubt that its labours have been greatly helped.

In the following narrative of a portion of my life in the Holy Land, I must needs refer now and again to the action of this infant society ; when describing the difficulties in which I was placed, the instructions I received and carried out ; in doing so let it not be thought that I wish to refer in any manner to the society as now organised. To its early life only I

I UNDEEGEOUND JEEUSALEM.

allude, when its swaddling clothes jorevented action, when it was feeble and imjoerfectly organised, directed gratuitously at intervals by one so talented yet so overwhelmed by his professional work, and without a secretary. As such it was impossible everything should go smoothly at all times — everything did not go smoothly ; but this only reflects the more credit on its present condition : its vitality has carried it through all difficulties.

When finally I returned from Palestine I was anxious in justice to myself to mention some of the difficulties which arose, but, on request, deferred doing so, lest its position might be endangered, its young life checked ; that precaution is now no longer necessary. The little society, once feebly progressing under the protection of Mr. George Grove, has grown into healthy and vigorous life, able and willing to think and act for itself; its organisation has become nearly complete, it no longer lives spasmodically by fits and starts, but has, by the tender care and indefatigable industry of Mr. Walter Besant, the secretary, developed to what it is, and will, we may reasonably hope, by his energy continue to develope, until next year we may see that it has become one of the established societies of the country ; for do not let it be supposed that when the survey of Palestine is complete its labours are over. It is then that the great work begins, then that we shall be enabled to reap our rich harvest (of which an earnest has been already given) — a harvest, the garnering of many years, leading to a more thorouo-h knowledo-e of the Book by means of our work in the land of its birth.

INTRODUCTORY. 3

To Mr. Walter Besant is due the credit of directing the financial ways of the society in the right course, of appealing to the masses who love the Land and the Book, as well as to the wealthy few who give Iheir hundreds liberally in aid of the cause. To him is due the present institution of annual subscribers, quarterly reports^ itinerant lecturers, and other arrangements which have made the society take such a strong position in the country, by bringing the good work to the knowledge of the people.

Scarcely a decade of years have yet passed since the Palestine Exploration Fund, with a true sense of the mercies of providence, sent out an expedition to the Holy Land, without money or materials, to undermine the Holy City, to survey the country. The conception was grand, but I may say almost unique in the history of scientific societies. The party was to commence operations, and by its researches call the attention of the public to the work, and thus electrify the scarce breathing body of the little Palestine Exploration Fund, and bring it into life. " Give us results, and we will send you money!" was the inspiriting cry which reached me in Palestine ; in vain I replied, " Give me tools, materials, money, food, and I will get you results." The answer was, " Results furnished, and you shall have the money ! "

Now it is all over, I feel satisfied that 1 had not inquired into the solvency of the Palestine Exploration Fund before embarking on my enterprise ; with its goodly array of names on the general committee, I had not thought of seeking as to its organisation, and was not aware that it was practically in the hand

B 2 of one man, a very busy man, the indefatigable Honorary Secretary. I turned a deaf ear to the remarks of my friends that the whole undertaking was chimerical, that I should neverget paid, and that before I had been out six months the Fund would be broken up. And 3^et it was quite true ; for during the first ten months of my sojourn in the coimtry, I had not only to do the work but also to advance more than half tlie money, until by November there was a debt due to me of nearly a thousand pounds sterling. Had I known that there was the least prospect of this occurring, I should not have been desirous of trying the experiment ; hard indeed it was to carry out the work itself, but to have to pay for it also was more than I could have looked forward to, and more than I could afford to do. I had not in my instructions been restricted to any particular expenditure. I was " to exercise economy as much as possible and consistent with the due progress of the work," and to carry on excavations in Jerusalem, and survey the country outside at the same time ; work which, including all pay, allowances, and other expenditure, I performed for 2001. a month ; a sum which I had reason to suppose was well within what the Palestine Exploration Fund had calculated on and could afford, as it was less than the expenditure of the previous expedition, which had not made any extended excavations. But I am anticipating.

I was in the sitting-room of the Charing Cross Hotel on the night of the 1st of February, 1867, the eve of my departure, when Mr. Grove paid me a visit, handed me over 800/. for my preliminary expenses.