Two years in Europe

Preface

The writer ventures to describe a few of the most important incidents and objects connected with a lengthy visit to the principal countries of Europe. He is not without hope that persons who have journeyed over the same route may find some pleasant reminders in his work;, and that those who contemplate a similar trip may consider it a useful adjunct to the guide-book ; and that others, who would rather read books of travel than make a tour themselves, may be interested in its perusal.

CHAPTER XVII. Farewell Visit to London and Oxford — Flora's Rescue . 407

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

San Francisco 6

St. Paul's Cathedrai ' 30

Westminster Abbey . * 34

Monument of Sir Walter Scott 88

Melrose Abbey 94

Stirling Castle 96

Abbotsford 98

Anne Hathaway's Cottage loS

The Church, Stratford-on-Avon . . . . . .112

Pont au Change, Paris 118

Grand Canal, Venice 156

St. Mark's Cathedral, Venice 162

Milan 172

Forum, Rome 218

St. Peter's, Rome 228

The Dying Gladiator, Rome 244

Naples 248

Pompeii 258

Herculaneum 262

Florence 274

Heidelberg Castle . .316

Cologne Cathedral . . . . . ■ . . . . 322

Hotel de Ville, Brussels 324

Notre Dame, Paris 362

Tomb of Napoleon, Paris 366

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Crystal Palace ...

Windsor Castle ......

Balliol College, O.xford ......

"Bade her Farewell! Perchance to meet no more' "At last tired Nature bade them stop" "She Listened with a Beating Heart" . "Across his Saddle she did her Lover softly Lay''

TWO YEARS IN EUROPE.

Chapter I. From Portland To New York Ocean Experiences And

ARRIVAL AT LIVERPOOL RURAL ENGLAND, ITS RAILROADS

AND BEGGARS.

After a continuous and laborious application to professional life for nearly forty years I concluded to take a trip to Europe. Not for rest or health, for I am never in better condition physically or mentally than v^hen fully engaged in my daily round of duties ; but to visit the celebrated hospitals and medical schools of Edinburgh, Dublin, London, Paris, Berlin, and Vienna, in order to ascertain the latest improvements in the science of medicine, and at the same time join with my family in viewing the wonders of the Old World.

Only he who has tried the experiment can properly appreciate the feelings of one bidding farewell to friends and relations for a prolonged absence from home. This is doubly true as regards the medical man, who has not only to sever for a time — perhaps forever — the ties of kindred, but those appertaining to the family physician and his confiding patients. Even the grandly beautiful scenery of the Columbia river, to be seen from, the steamer as she proudly moved towards the ocean,, could not dispel the feelings of depression that weighed, our spirits down. That bugbear, the bar at the mouth of the Columbia river, being safely crossed, we next had to make the acquaintance of that greater evil, sea-sickness. The Pacific Ocean, although rightly named near the equator, is by no means the quiet sea, from San Francisco northwards, that its name would indicate, and is nearly always sufficiently boisterous to keep the average voyager a day or two from his meals.

It was at the time of our trip quite rough. As usual, all the so-called specifics for sea-sickness were brought into use. According to my experience, there are no specifics for this disagreeable malady, not even the bromides of sodium and potassium so persistently advised by certain distinguished New York physicians ; nor the hydrate of chloral, which is considered by many as infallible. The latter medicine, though not a specific, is, under peculiar conditions of the system, a valuable remedy, — when, for instance, the patient becomes wakeful and unable to sleep. For example, a lady of our party had vomited incessantly and become extremely exhausted, nervous, and sleepless, and would cry out that the ship was on fire, or that it had struck a rock and was sinking. I trusted in her case to ordinary means until the second night, when a full dose of the hydrate of chloral put her into a sound sleep, lasting long enough not only lo restore her nervous equilibrium, but to calm her stomach. With the exception of debility from the long privation of nourishment she awoke next morning bright and happy. Moderate nourishment soon fully restored her again to health. Although there are no specifics for sea-sickness there are many medicines highly beneficial when properly administered. In fact, the complaint must be treated upon general principles. As a rule, however, it is better to avoid medicine and trust to proper regulation of the diet and other hygienic means. In trips of a few hours only, like crossing the English Channel, it

FROM PORTLAND TO NEW YORK. 3

is best when the sea is rough, to remain in bed, or at least in the horizontal position. In long voyages, as in crossing the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, it is often wiser to keep on deck as much as possible ; for, although by so doing one may get sicker at first than if lying down, the sickness will be the sooner over.

There are many interesting views along the Oregon and California coasts from the Columbia river to the Golden Gate. Cape Blanco is one of these, partly because until the acquisition of Alaska Territory it was the most western portion of the United States. The spot of most interest to me, however, though unattractive to the general observer, was Port Orford, on the Oregon coast, about forty miles north of California, because of the reminiscences of other days. Adjoining this village there was once a military post, the head-quarters of the expedition sent to quell the Indians of Southern Oregon during their devastating war of 1855 and 1856. This war commenced by an uprising of the Indians near Jacksonville, Oregon, in the autumn of the former year. Their disaffection soon spread among the coast tribes, who commenced their bloody work by the massacre of forty-nine men, women, and children between Fort Orford and the Rogue river, on the 22d of February, 1856. The surviving settlers and miners, about one hundred and twenty-five in number, erected a temporary fortification near the north side of Rogue river, and remained there entrenched until relieved by Col. Buchanan's command of United States troops. When the news of the outbreak first reached Fort Orford, it was impossible to render immediate relief, because of the inadequate number of soldiers at that station to contend against the combined tribes of Southern Oregon.

Major John F, Reynolds, the commanding officer of Fort Orford, who was subsequently killed while in command of the Union army at Gettysburg during our civil war (Gen. Meade not yet having arrived on the field of battle), did all in his power to afford relief both to the citizens of Rogue river and Port Orford until reinforcements were obtained. Besides many other deeds of kindness, he divided his commissary stores with them until the garrison soldiers themselves were without provisions, and nothing but a providential occurrence kept them from actual starvation. Our rations gave out on the day of the expected arrival of a steamer from San Francisco, bound for Oregon. We sighted her at midnight, and although we anticipated that she would, as usual, touch at Fort Orford, yet, as an extra precaution against her not doing so, we sent up several sky-rockets to signify our distress. To our great disappointment she continued on up the coast, being afraid to come in on account of the rough weather, but catching fire, she was compelled to return to Fort Orford the next morning for repairs. She supplied our immediate wants, and took tidings to the commanding officer of Fort Vancouver of the sad condition of affairs in the Fort Orford military district. In the meantime we got word to General Wool, the commander of the division of the Pacific, with head-quarters at San Francisco, who ordered a combined movement against the Indians from three points — Jacksonville, Crescent City, and Fort Orford. The governor of Oregon Territory also ordered the volunteers to aid in quelling the hostile savages. After a bloody resistance of about four months they were made to surrender, and placed on the coast Indian reservation, where they and their descendants have lived ever since. It is a curious fact that almost every regular officer engaged in that campaign, except myself, subsequently became distinguished in military life, and attained the rank of brigadier- or major-general.

The most heroic Indian in that war. Chief John, became

FROM PORTLAND TO NEW YORK. 5

very discontented in his new home on the reservation, and, having planned another outbreak, was shackled and sent to a military prison near San Francisco.

On his way down, when opposite his old hunting-ground near the mouth of Rogue river, he and his son raised a war-whoop, and attempted to escape, but were wounded by the mate of the steamer and the military guard, and compelled to yield. For cunning, treachery, and bravery combined, old John has never been excelled by any other Indian chieftain in America.

To return to our voyage. The last half day of our trip was blessed with a clear sky and moderately smooth ocean, which we were just beginning to enjoy when we entered the Golden Gate. Rip Van Winkle could not have been more surprised at the changes around him on awakening from his long sleep than was I, seeing San Francisco again after an absence of twenty years. Its population during that period had increased from sixty, to over three hundred, thousand. What were only bleak-looking sand hills during my sojourn in the city in 1861 had all been laid out in beautifully paved streets, flanked with elegant buildings, many of the residences being good enough for princes, especially those of Hopkins, Stanford, and Croker. Among the most notable buildings erected since my last visit may be mentioned the City Hall, Mercantile Library, Grand Opera-house, California Theatre, Mint, Custom-house, Occidental Hotel, Safe Deposit Bank, Bank of California, Nevada Bank, and Palace Hotel The Occidental Hotel was just being erected when I resided in San Francisco. While sitting in my of^ce one day during the erection I heard a terrific crash, and on rushing with the crowd in the direction of the noise, I was astonished to find that a large part of the building had tumbled down. The contractor was just putting on the roof when the accident occurred. One of

6 TWO YEARS IIV EUROPE.

the workmen was left sitting on the top of a fragment of wall at a dizzy height for hours before any means could be devised to rescue him. I saw many splendid hotels while abroad, but none larger than the Palace. It cost, with land and furniture, three and a quarter millions of dollars, and is capable of accommodating eleven hundred and eighty guests.

San Francisco can now boast of a beautiful cemetery — the Lone Mountain — and a fine park, called the Golden Gate. The latter is, however, too artificial to be entirely satisfactory; and will not compare favorably with the charmingly beautiful natural park — Druid Hill — of Baltimore.

The view of the surrounding country from Telegraph Hill is very fine to any one who has not been spoiled by a sight of the grand panorama of valleys, rivers, and snowcapped mountains, to be seen from the rising ground back of Portland, Oregon.

One of the most interesting sights in the vicinity of San Francisco is Seal Rock, which on a bright sunny day is covered with seals and sea-lions, some of which lie sleeping, while others are crawling up and over the rock, and now and then plunging into the ocean. Their cry or bark is peculiar and loud. Judging from the crowds attracted by a few seals in the zoological gardens of London and Paris, I think that Seal Rock and its inhabitants would prove a great success could they be exhibited in those great cities. Wealth is very unstable in San Francisco on account of the prevalent mania for mining stock gambling.

To persons fond of living in a large and growing town, possessing a dry and mild climate, where there is no winter or summer in the usual acceptation of the words, who do not particularly object to dust and strong winds, and a shaking up occasionally by an earthquake, I would recommend the Golden City of the Pacific.

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FROM PORTLAND TO NEW YORK. /

When I first saw San Francisco, in 1855, she had no telegraphic or railroad connection with the Eastern States, or, in fact, with any portion of her own State. The fastest means of communication was by steamer, via the Isthmus of Panama. The arrival and departure of a steamship in those days were eventful times and called for tenfold more people to witness them than at present, although the population of the city has increased during the interval from forty, to several hundred, thousands. The frequent arrival and departure of railroad trains, and the constant communication by telegraph from all parts of the earth, are the principal factors in the great change, because they lessen the importance of the movements of any particular line of conveyance. Even persons of public importance may, at the present day, arrive at and depart from San Francisco by rail or steamer, without a hundred people knowing or caring any thing about it.

After a few days' rambling in and around the Golden City we took our departure on the Central Pacific Railroad for New York. The trip up the Sacramento valley was most delightful as the whole country v/as covered with yellow grain, forming a marked contrast to its appearance in November, 1861, when I made my first voyage up the Sacramento river in a steamboat, vvhich for propriety's sake kept in the channel, but could have run all over the valley, as the country was suffering from a second Noah's flood. This has been repeated once or twice since then, but the inhabitants, having learned from sad experience to erect their houses on elevated spots of ground, are not compelled to flee from their homes in the dead hour of the night, as was the case during the first inundation. The streets of the beautiful city of Sacramento were flooded in November, 1861, and again in the early part of 1862, to the depth of from five to fifteen feet ; but by raising the grade and building a high and strong dike along the

A-merican river, near its junction with the Sacramento, the city keeps as dry as the other important city of the United States similarly located — New Orleans.

The embankment alluded to had been thrown up previous to 1861, as there had already been several floods — one in January, 1850, a second in March, 1852, and a third in January, 1853. It gave way in several places in 1861, It has since been raised and strengthened.

We left the lower valleys of California just as the sun disappeared beneath the Pacific Ocean, and crossed the Sierra Nevada mountains at night. As the moon was shining I walked out upon the platform of our sleeping-car several times during the night to drink in the pure air, and look at the mosses, the flowers, the fruits, the shrubs, the trees, the distant snow-fields, the towering rocks, and the fearful canons, along whose sides our train curved onwards, apparently unconscious that a little obstruction on the track, or a slight accident to cars or railway, would send itself and sleeping passengers rolling like an avalanche far down into the depths below.

After crossing the mountains the train bore us for over three hundred miles over a region barren and uninteresting for the general traveller, full of dust, and scarce of water, both being impregnated with sulphur and the various salts of soda. Yet uninviting as this country appeared, its mines of silver and gold helped to build the great transtcontinental railway on which we were hurrying eastwards, and caused more fluctuations in commercial values and personal riches in San Francisco than the lovely grain ifields of California. Such is the power of gold.

The region to which allusion is made has one goodsized river, the Humbolt, along which the railroad runs for several hundred miles, but instead of growing larger and stronger the farther it proceeds from its source, it in- Lcreases in size for a portion of its length, then diminishes,

FROM PORTLAND TO NEW YORK. 9

and finally wastes itself in a huge sink east of the Sierras. When full of water from the melting snows of spring, vegetation along its banks assumes a freshness unknown in the region a few miles distant.

As we passed through the beautiful valleys of Utah I could not help thinking of the times long passed when, as medical ofificer of a frontier military station, I had saved the lives of hundreds of the deluded followers of Brigham Young, while afflicted with typhoid fever on the plains. Then again, as our fast-going train swept across the Plains themselves, which are five hundred miles wide and one thousand miles long, I could not help recalling the four years of happy isolation that I once enjoyed upon this magnificent earth-ocean, with its rolling hills and gentle undulations all waving with green grass and lovely flowers. Where are the antelope, the deer, the elk, the buffaloes, the red men, that once roamed over this boundless space ? They are fast being displaced by sheep, cattle, and the herdsmen, who, in their turn, are already giving way to the tiller of the soil. Vast towns and cities are supplanting the humble villages of the lords of the plains ; but will they withstand any better than these lowly abodes of the red man the terrible cyclones that devastate a large portion of this charming country?

The happy denizens of the plains will please not laugh at Californians for occasionally leaving their beds en deshabille when mother earth begins to rock in the dead hour of the night, for unless they dig holes in the ground, to which they may flee during an emergency, the howling winds will some day make them fly through the air like birds of passage.

^Ve were much pleased with Chicago, where we stopped for a few days. One meets with Chicagoans everywhere abroad. Like the people of San Francisco they are known in'Europe more for their lavish expenditures than for their lO TWO YEARS IN EUROPE.

refinement or learning. Of course there are many exceptions to the general rule.

We tarried for a while, both going and returning, at Niagara. It is a mistake, however, for the tourist to visit these noble falls on the eve of his departure abroad, as their sight deprives him of the power of feeling any pleasure in looking at those in Europe. I paid my first respects to the falls in January, 1855, when they seemed on the eve of freezing up, so high and extensive were the ice-beds below them. The trees on Goat Island were at that time dangling with icicles of enormous dimensions. Our last two visits were in the summers of 1881 and 1883, when all nature was robed in her best attire. A most pleasing contrast !

Arriving in New York City, we spent a few weeks there, concerning which something will be said after narrating the incidents of our visit to the great capitals of Europe.

As the time approached for the departure of our steamer, the " Batavia," we felt the usual dread that some little delay in our reaching the pier might compel us to await another vessel. Our fears were groundless.

In passing out the harbor of New York I was reminded of the time when I first entered it, December, 1854, on the " Empire City," from New Orleans, after five years' service on the frontier as an army doctor, and of my departure, after a short leave of absence, on the steamer " Illinois," via Panama, for duty in the military division of the Pacific. New York harbor, then so beautiful, had grown still more charming by reason of the vast improvements in and around it. One of these, that gigantic and wonderful piece of engineering, the Brooklyn bridge, was in 188 1 yet in an unfinished condition, but we had the pleasure of crossing it on our return home from Europe a few days after its completion, in 1883. The changes seen around us were only suggestive of those that had occurred

OCEAN EXPERIENCES. II

all over our land. There were no railroads or telegraphs west of the Mississippi river at the time of my first visit to New York in 1854, and the journey to our Pacific possessions had to be made in vessels via Cape Horn or the Isthmus of Darien, or in wagons over the Rocky Mountains.

There being a great rush for Europe, we were unable to secure good berths on any other Cunard steamer than the " Batavia," but learning by experience, we engaged passage for our return voyage in that noble vessel the " Servia," six months in advance. We had the satisfaction of knowing that although the " Batavia " was inferior in speed to others in the line, our captain had crossed the Atlantic in her about one hundred and sixty times without a single accident.

Our second day at sea was in the wake of a cyclone, and many of us had the pleasure of being pitched out of our berths in the dead hour of the night by the rolling of the ship. A few persons in the lower cabin, suddenly awakening, found themselves on the floor of the state-room in several inches of cold water which had been shipped from the dashing sea.

As they were sea-sick and thoroughly drenched, they did not say, " Roll on, thou dark and deep blue ocean, roll," but made use of epithets less poetical.

There is nothing in the first part of a sea-voyage to inspire the average passenger with a love for the ocean. It is rather a period of sadness. The heartache produced by the separation from friends and country are not allayed by any thing to be seen around him, and almost everybody is more or less sick and forlorn. After a few days, however, every thing is changed. It is then that one can feel the awful majesty of the vast expanse of waters, bounded only by the horizon, and can amuse himself by observing passing vessels, or the restless waves, as they come hurrying on one after another, dashing their spray before the winds ; or by watching the little birds, called Mother Carey's chickens, as they skim along the crest of the billows ; or the sea-gulls, named divers, which follow in the wake of vessels, gathering the falling crumbs ; or schools of porpoises, as they go rollicking alongside of the vessel; or the monster whale, plowing the ocean, and spouting its waters far above him in fleecy spray, rejoicing in the fact that since the introduction of kerosene, his oil is in less demand, and he can skylark in southern waters without the constant dread of the terrible harpoon.

Or, if not inclined to view the elements and the inhabitants of the air and sea, one may saunter into the smokingroom and see the gentlemen amuse themselves in playing draughts, euchre, whist, and dominos, or go forward and witness a game of "horse-billiards," or go into the cabin and listen to the piano and the sweet voice of song, or promenade the deck with a friend, or take a book and sit down under the protecting awning in a comfortable seachair, which every cabin passenger is supposed to possess, and amuse himself in scenes far off. Reading is really the principal pastime at sea.

Among the many innocent amusements introduced to kill time none is more interesting than a " mock trial," if properly conducted by witty persons and good speakers.

Probably the most disagreeable thing on a voyage, except sea-sickness, is the blowing of a fog-horn. This is often done, especially off the Banks of Newfoundland. Its usefulness, however, in warding off collisions with other vessels makes it indispensable. It is a pity that it cannot also ward off an iceberg. There is little chance of escape for a ship if she collides with one of these icemountains, which sometimes rise three hundred feet above the level of the sea, and are sunk fifteen hundred feet below it. The sur^reon of the " Servia " told us that he once

OCEAN EXPERIENCES. I 3

saw an iceberg six miles in length and about three hundred feet in height above the surface of the ocean.

On English steamers there is always divine service on the Sabbath, the hymns being sometimes accompanied by parlor-organ music.

Everybody daily consults the chart of the vessel's course after the chief officer has taken his noon observation and noted thereon the latitude and longitude. There is often much betting as to the distance the ship will make in the next twenty-four hours, or as to the time of her arrival at Queenstown, Ireland, the only port of call before reaching Liverpool.

One of the first points near the Irish coast to be seen through the telescope is Crookhaven, from which the arrival of the ship is telegraphed over both continents. Next comes the rock of Fastnet on the island of Cape Clear. The excellent light-house on this rock can be sighted at night at an immense distance. This place is only seventy-five miles from Queenstown. When it is seen there are no longer any diversity of amusements on board. The cabin passengers are then divided into two parties — one straining their eyes at the savage and lofty cliffs on this part of the Irish coast, and the other in writing, for Queenstown is the place to mail and receive letters. The steamer's mail is unloaded here, and reaches London by rail and a short water transit across the Irish Sea at Holyhead before the steamer arrives at Liverpool. In about four hours after passing Fastnet the steamer is abreast of the boldest promontory on that part of the coast — the Old Head of Kinsale. From this place can be seen in the distance Roche's Point, which marks the entrance to Queenstown harbor. In-going steamers deliver their London mail and such passengers as are not bound for Liverpool — including tourists who prefer seeing Ireland before visiting England — to a tender lying off Roche

Point. Out-going steamers from Liverpool usually lie off Queenstown, while waiting for the London mail, from three to ten hours, thus giving the passengers time to run ashore and visit the river Lee, and sometimes Cork, and drink in the charms of the beautiful country surrounding Queenstown, We availed ourselves of this privilege on our return voyage.

After steaming well up the St. George's Channel, we were often near enough the shore of Ireland to see its pretty villages, country-seats, castles, churches, green fields, and beautiful woods.

The few fences to be seen were either stone or hedge. Much of the land seemed to be occupied by tenants whose small patches had no metes and bounds visible at a distance. Their crops appeared to consist of potatoes, oats, and barley. The landscape was varied by lovely roads stretching from the sea-shore far over the valleys and hills. These were lined by patches of shrubs with yellow flowers or blossoms, — probably that beautiful and useful shrub, the heath. Much of this lovely landscape may be seen before touching at Queenstown as well as for some distance after leaving it.

In going up the channel no land was visible on our starboard till within a few hours of Liverpool, when the green shores of Wales were to be seen in the dim distance. It being high tide, we were not detained at the Mersey bar, but steamed up the harbor to within two miles of our landing, when passengers and baggage were transferred from the " Batavia " to a tug, which carried us safely to Princess Landing.

We then went into the custom-house — not the main building, but a floating branch establishment at the wharf — to wait until the landing of all the luggage.

In due time our valises and trunks were landed, examined, and marked with chalk " customs." The principal

ARRIVAL AT LIVERPOOL. I 5

contraband articles searched for by the officials were sugar, tobacco, spirits, and American reprints of British books.

Being anxious to hurry on to London we were fortunate in reaching the Midland Railway station in time for the train on the afternoon of the day of our arrival in Liverpool. So that had no other opportunity been afforded us of paying our respects to this sister city of our own New York, we might have come home remembering only its crowded streets and the dismal rain that poured down upon us while we were struggling to reach the railroad station. Fortunately three subsequent visits gave us a better view and more favorable opinion of this great commercial emporium, through which the products of the manufactories of Great Britain are distributed to all parts of the world, and into whose ports are received the rich products of Asia, Africa, and America, pre-eminently the last.

The constant entering and departing of ships, the handling of wool, grain, cotton, bacon, beef, fruits, clothing, fuel, liquors, groceries, drugs, materials for house and shipbuilding, dry goods, and, in short, all the necessaries and luxuries of life, in elevators, warehouses, and depots, make the docks of Liverpool highly animating and interesting.

The harbor, with its forests of masts flying the colors of all nations, shows the enormous extent and ramifications of the commercial relations of this rich, populous, and growing city. Yet with all its wealth and the beauty of its main thoroughfares, it has many narrow, filthy, dark lanes where sickness, foulness, and abject poverty reign supreme. The contrast between commercial opulence on the one hand, and of helpless poverty and degradation on the other, is more marked in Liverpool than in any other city tha.t I have seen either in Europe or America. The city's chief development is coeval with that of the United