Truths from the West Indies. Including a sketch of Maderia in 1833

Front matter

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TRUTHS

Preface

These pages, with the exception of the last two chapters, were written in the West Indies, and would have been submitted at an earlier period to the public, had I not, since my return to this country, been in a state of health unfitting me for mental exertion, (and even now precluding the careful revision of what I had noted down.) Considerable delay in publication having thus unavoidably occurred, I contemplated relinquishing the subject; hoping, also, that the colonists, even at the twelfth hour, might be prompted to evince something like mercy i towards their unfortunate negroes, in which case I should have regretted to re-open animosities.

Deceived in this latter point, I at length send out these " Truths? cautioning the people of England that they too will be deceived, if they for one moment believe that the colonists, in emancipating their apprentices, have other objects in view than to lull the attention of the public in this country, and then, by a series of local enactments, to bring back our free negro brethren to a condition scarcely one degree removed from absolute personal slavery.

The portion of the volume written in the West Indies, was, on my arrival in England, perused by Mr. Macaulay. That good man was even then on the bed of sickness, which was to be to him that of death. His expiring faculties were however aroused whenever the righteous cause, to which he had rendered such mighty service, was alluded to ; and he conveyed: to me not only the expression of his anxiety that what I had prepared should be published, but the full assurance of his countenance and protection, should it please Providence to prolong his life.

From those, to whom the name and memory of Macaulay are dear, I will fearlessly ask what Macaulay himself would have rendered.

STUDHOLME HODGSON.

a S

Chapter I. Page

Departure from England — Arrival in Madeira — First Scenes — Hints to future Travellers — Corruption among the Public Functionaries — Consumption — Affecting Instance — Miss F. — Conduct of the British Merchants — Don Alvaro da Costa — Anecdote — Domain of M. de Cavalho .... 1

Chapter II

Arrival in the "West Indies — Object of these Sketches — Fault of former Works — State of Party — Fury of the Planters — Plans to cripple the Abolition Bill — Origin of Reports respecting Insurrections — Motives 21

Chapter III

The Church in the West Indies— A Bishop— The Bar— A Judge — An Attorney- General — Scene in Court — Stipendiary Magistrates — How selected by Mr. Stanley — Worse than useless — Causes 35

Xll CONTENTS.

?AGK

Chapter IV

Qualifications to ensure entry into the Colonial Beau-monde — The different Castes described by a Lady-Patroness — Mulatto — Mustie — Fustie — Costie — Sambo — Utter want of Morality in both Sexes — Merchants and Store-keepers — Trait of paternal and fraternal Affection — A Domestic Tragedy 58

Chapter V

Private Society continued— Sir Ralph Woodford — His Efforts to introduce Refinement — The Rum Law — Anecdote — Mania among the Colonists for Military Rank — The Court at Trinidad — The Immaculate Vice- Treasurer 74

Chapter VI

Digression — Sir George Hill, Governor of Trinidad — Debate in Parliament — Mr. O'Connell's Opinion of Sir G. Hill — Mr. Spring Rice's— Mr. R. Gordon's — Mr. Hume's — Mr. G. R. Dawson's — Sir J. Newport's — Mr. Wilks's — Alderman Waithman's — Mr. Strickland's — Mr. D. W. Harvey's — Public Opinion as expressed through the Press . . .

Chapter VII

Class from which the Public Functionaries are selected — The Principles of these — The Duke of "Wellington's Friend M'Sawnie — An Overseer — A Manager — A Planter — The Climax 101

CONTENTS. Xlll

PAGE

Chapter VIII

Glance at the former Treatment of Slaves — Maxim of the Planters — How acted upon — Anecdote — No Instruction allowed the Negroes — An Idiom formed for them — Motives — All Religious Ceremonies scorned — A Funeral among the Whites — Error of the Anti- Slavery Party — Gratitude owed to the Missionaries — Their excellent Doctrines — Mrs. Carmichael's Calumnies— Character and Demeanour of the Methodist Preachers 110

Chapter IX

Disproportion between the Sexes — Causes — Task- work — Flogging — Armed Collars — Sweating Stocks — Cases of Atrocity — Conduct of the Colonial Ladies — Anecdote of one — Depravities on a Plantation — Anecdote — Hints as to what a Commission might detect — A Lottery — The Prizes — Impunity with which Murders of Negroes were committed before the "Abolition Act" — A Document well worthy of perusal 139

Chapter X

Curious History of a Black Man — His Remarks on the Colonial System in the Island of Trinidad 173

CHAPTER XL

Lawlessness of the Colonists — Curious Instance — Danger attending Liberalism — Examples — Mr. Buxton — Admiral Fleming — The Militia— The Press— Judge Scotland— A worthy Tory — The entire Colonial System exposed in the Case of Mr. Young Anderson — Hint to the Whigs — Anecdote 184

CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Plans to obtain White Slaves — Carried into effect — Portuguese Victims — Fay aland Madeira — The frightful Condition of the cajoled — Havoc among them — A Voice from the Dead— Appeal to Portugal — Solemn Warning to Emigrants 212

Chapter XIII

Colonial Governors — How selected by the Tories— Never supported by that Party — Difficulties encountered by them — Firmness of the Whig Ministry — Sir Lionel Smith — Barbadoes on his Arrival — His Government — A Tory Governor— Description of the Colony under him — Portrait of a Governor as he should not be . 228

Chapter XIV

Addresses of Mr. Stanley previous to 1st August — Howreceived — Conduct of some of the Public Officers in the Colonies — Tory Preaching and Advice — Tory Governments always averse to Emancipation — Dangers Prophesied — The Prophets — Their Victims — Hint to Government concerning a certain Solicitor-General — Antigua — Attempt to ruin that Colony — Negroes kept in ignorance of what was really intended— Anecdote in proof — Worse treated as 1st August approached — Cat-o'-nine-tails — The Abolitionists persecuted— Mr. S. Le Fevre — Barbadoes described by him . . !

Chapter XV

Martial Law desired — The King's Troops — Feeling in the Army — Trifling Exceptions — Trinidad looked to by other Colonies — Why — Contemplated Butchery — Lieutenant-

CONTENTS. XV

PAGE

Colonel Hardy, 19th Regiment — Warlike Preparations — Militia — 1st August — The Governor's Address to the Negroes— How received — Sanguinary Feeling against them — Trinidad at Night — Ludicrous Militia Dispute .... 266

Chapter XVI

Demand for Troops — Alarming Reports — Appeal to Colonel Hardy — Further Attempts at Martial Law — Horrible Occurrence — Flogging Parade — Subsequent Floggings — Astounding Fact— Sir George Hill, Bart— Colonel Hardy, 290

Chapter XVII

Abolition Act failed — "Why — Ministers opposed by their own Officers — Treacherous Conduct towards the Apprentices — Joseph Sturge — Swindling connected with the " Compensation"— Lord Glenelg's proper Conduct — Number of Lashes inflicted — Lord Glenelg on the Flogging of the Women — Summary of the whole — Want of Schools and Churches — Trinidad 313

Chapter XVIII

Political Dissertation on the now Altered Condition of the Blacks— Duties of this Country towards her Free Black Citizens — How to be performed — Great Points for Consideration — All depends on the People — Hints to the Emancipationists — Conclusion 329

TRUTHS

THE WEST. INDIES-

Chapter I

Departure from England — Arrival in Madeira — First Scenes — Hints to future Travellers — Corruption among the public Functionaries — Consumption — Affecting Instance — Miss F. — Conduct of the British Merchants — Don Alvaro da Costa — Anecdote — Domain of M. de Cavalho.

On the 22& of October, 1833, I left the Downs, and on the 3d of the following month arrived in Madeira.

At the period of my departure from England, the winter was setting in with extreme severity, and will long be remembered by the' merchant service, from the loss it sustained.*

* Ninety thousand tons of shipping were destroyed before the month of December.

2 ARRIVAL AT MADEIRA.

In the Channel, we encountered numberless vessels running to port, where, as the event proved, they were destined to remain for months ; wre, however, seized the favourable moment, and had the good fortune to get to sea.

Perhaps the first and most lasting impression made by a speedy voyage to Madeira, under the preceding circumstances, is rapture at finding oneself wafted in a few days, as if by magic, from the very centre of snow and winter to the charms of an exquisite spring. I never remember to have experienced so delightful a sensation, as on first setting foot on this island. The climate and my liberation from a crowded vessel, occasioned an exuberance of spirits which at first led me to regard every object through the happy medium of my own feeling : this, however, gradually subsided, and I was enabled to look around me with that calmness and impartiality so requisite in a chronicler of facts. I suspect other visitors to this spot have recovered less easily from their enthusiasm ; on this supposition alone can I understand the unqualified nature of their praises.

FIRST SCENES. 3

I do not intend to enter upon a detailed description of Madeira; the subject has been handled by too many eloquent and glowing pens ; but I consider myself called upon to point out some of the serious blemishes which have been forgotten or concealed by former writers.

In the first place, it would be difficult to convey an idea of the filth it is necessary to wade through, and the objects of disgust by which at every instant the senses are assailed, before the arrival at an hotel can be effected. Bands of sturdy beggars, almost in a state of nudity, greet the traveller on his arrival, exposing to view ghastly wounds, and thrusting themselves upon his notice with an eagerness and ferocity not only revolting, but appalling. Should they find their demands for alms unheeded, the}^ will often with dreadful execrations throw vermin from their persons upon any ladies who may be present, or perhaps dash into their faces their mutilated and festered stumps. Having escaped from these loathsome objects, the visitor is exposed at every jail he passes to scenes almost equally shocking. b2

4 FIRST SCENES.

On his approach, the whole of the inmates rush to the gratings of the prison, and with yells and shrieks which will long echo in his ears, and with an appearance of famine which thrills him with horror, implore a compassion which no Englishman is found to deny, when he learns that by the charity alone of the humane are these wretched people saved from almost starvation, government having provided no means for their support.

I will imagine the traveller freed from these inconveniences, and to have succeeded in obtaining a few hours' repose. After this commence troubles of a different kind. It is necessary to obtain from the authorities at the Custom-house a permit for the landing of the baggage, as not even the most trifling article is allowed to be brought on shore without a written order: and to prevent any deviation from this rule, an officer is stationed on board every ship during the whole period of her anchorage in the harbour, paid and supported by the captain. On sending for any portion of baggage, woe betide you if there be marked in the order " small trunk," when port-

HINTS TO FUTURE TRAVELLERS. b

manteau was intended : neither explanation nor. entreaties will soften the heart of the Cerberus on board; and to your dismay the messenger will return empty-handed, except, taught wisdom by experience, he has had the tact to employ the potent influence of a bribe. And here I cannot but remark upon the shameful effrontery with which the functionaries of Madeira accept pecuniary presents : no concealment appears requisite ; there they stand, with outstretched palms and clamorous solicitations, exposed to the gaze of multitudes of their own countrymen as well as of foreigners. I was given to understand that these scandalous proceedings were sanctioned by government, as an excellent expedient by which to remunerate its servants without cost to the state. I do not extend entire credence to the existence of so corrupt a system; still I am bound to say, that what I witnessed in other instances induces me strongly to suspect that the charge is not without foundation. For the benefit of future visitors, I must not neglect to mention, that there is one occasion where even a bribe will

6 CORRUPTION AMONG THE

be found without avail ; that is, when the articles required from the vessel are not passed through the Custom-house before two o'clock p. m. ; in which event it is absolutely necessary to remain without them until the following day. I was unable to learn the origin or advantage of this regulation, but am led to believe, that the officers, like the servants at inns in France, are bound among themselves to share, in equal proportions, the various sums individually received. Hence the benefit to them of this rule is manifest, as in the event of there being any technical error in the designation of the baggage, no time is left for its correction on that day; and the generality of persons prefer submitting to robbery rather than endure the inconvenience of a delay of four-andtwenty hours. So rigidly is this law enforced, that a friend of mine desirous, about half-past two o'clock, of obtaining from among his wife's effects a small parcel of the utmost consequence, she being in a very precarious state of health, ventured on the liberty of soliciting an interview with the governor.

PUBLIC FUNCTIONARIES. 7

His excellency received him with the utmost courtesy, but could not accede to his request without the concurrence of the judge, nor the judge without that of the bishop. After a long consultation it was decided, that it would be inexpedient to infringe the regulation in question ; and my friend, at the risk of his wife's life, had no alternative but acquiescence in the fiat.

"When at length you have the good fortune to find yourself disentangled from these difficulties, and fixed in one of the delightful villas, you are in a fit mood to relish the charms of the climate and the place.

I can fancy no scenery, and I have travelled over most parts of Europe and a large portion of Asia, more lovely, more majestic, than that of this enchanting island. On the hills, as far as the temperature will admit, are vines of extraordinary uxuriance ; while even the loftiest mountains are adorned with a perpetual verdure.

Here reign in unbroken succession alternate spring and autumn ; utterly unknown are the scorching heat of summer and the icy chill of

O CONSUMPTION.

winter. The eye is enraptured by the view of a perpetual bloom, and the traveller ranges through meadows where grow spontaneously flowers, raised with difficulty even in the greenhouses of England, and scrambles through hedges composed of the myrtle, the rose, and the jasmine.

Notwithstanding these charms, predisposing the mind to cheerfulness and happiness, I must confess that there came across me sombre and melancholy feelings, which went far to neutralize the whole. I reflected how numerous had been the young, the lovely, and the noble, sent, and sent, alas ! in vain, to Madeira for the recovery of their health. How few, indeed, of a certain class ever visit it but with this object. I walked through the churchyard dedicated to foreigners, and surveyed with shuddering the many, many records of the ravages effected by that insidious foe, consumption. I pictured to myself the scenes of woe which have here occurred. I imagined the agony of a mother accompanying her child to this land of promise, and after months of excitement, now

AFFECTING INSTANCE. V

despairing, now hoping, at length laying that child in the sepulchre of the stranger. I had no reason, however, to conjure up a phantom of imagination ; I witnessed the reality in all its painful truth. To describe the case, I must revert to a few months previous. In the midst of the London season, at perhaps the brightest Almacks of the year, my eye was attracted by the most exquisitely beautiful girl whom it has ever been my lot to behold. Few paintings ever equalled that lovely face, or sculptures that unrivalled form. There she was, the young, the beautiful, and the gay, blooming with health and spirits, happy and courted, enrapturing by her wit and smiles a whole galaxy of stars and ribbands. Little, little did I then foresee when and where I was again to encounter this brilliant vision ; still less that when next it crossed my path, it would be descending rapidly to the grave : but so, alas ! it was. Five

short months from the above period, Miss

once more met my sight : it was at Madeira. Her countenance had then an unearthly softness of expression, which can never fade from my memory; b3

10 CONSUMPTION.

otherwise in appearance she was unchanged : the same matchless features, the same perfection of form, the same heavenly smile. But one glance sufficed to tell me that death had marked this angelic being for his own. Unlike the generality of victims to consumption, she was well aware of her approaching fate; and notwithstanding this awful certainty, two feelings alone appeared to agitate her spotless mind : the one was the hope that her life might yet be spared sufficiently long to enable her once again in this world to embrace her brother ; the other was the bitter reflection as to what would be the sufferings of her mother, when the moment for final separation should arrive.

" I am the idol," she often exclaimed, " the very idol of my mother. She blinds herself to my hopeless state ; and what, O God 1 what will become of her in this land of strangers, when she can no longer refuse to believe the fatal truth."

I subsequently conversed with the afflicted parent: too true she did not, or would not,

AFFECTING INSTANCE. 11

perceive the danger of her child to its full extent ; and knowing the agony which would be the result, I had not the barbarity to whisper my thoughts.

" It is," she said, " but a temporary weakness ; what malady can lurk under that bloom ? She is suffering from a cold consequent on an imprudent exposure to the night air, but this genial climate will soon restore her to her friends."

On inquiry, I discovered that this cold, this death warrant, had been received at that very Almacks where I had seen her so brilliant, so cheerful, so courted. Inscrutable indeed are the ways of Providence !

I will not attempt to describe my feelings when

I called to bid farewell. Mrs. was almost a

stranger to me ; but under peculiar circumstances those barriers of form are broken through in a moment, which in the usual routine of life would require years to remove ; and believing firmly that heartfelt sympathy occasions a corresponding feeling of kindness, even among perfect strangers, and without the interchange of a single syllable, my

12 CONSUMPTION.

heart assured me that I had acquired a friend for ever. Nor am I ashamed to confess that my cheeks were bedewed with the bitterest tears which I have shed since childhood, when six weeks afterwards I learned by the public journals that this charming girl was numbered with the dead.

Of the numerous invalids annually arriving in Madeira, it is truly melancholy to observe how small a proportion are destined to quit it. It is with pain, and only after a rigid scrutiny, that I venture on this assertion. The climate I have acknowledged pure and genial ; and if climate alone could cure, recovery would be certain. But the truth is, the victims arrive too late ; their fate in this world is irrevocably sealed long before they abandon the shores of their own country. The medical men, in many instances, from the hope of being able themselves to restore their interesting patients to health, tamper too long, and counsel a change of climate when no change can avail. In others, they fear to alarm, by even hinting at a removal to Madeira ; and the propo-

CONDUCT OF THE BRITISH MERCHANTS. 13

sition eventually is, perhaps, suggested by the very dying party, to whom months previous it should have been made. The result in both cases is the same : a tedious voyage, succeeded by a certain death.

I will not detain the reader with descriptions of local scenery, nor of private life ; but as it may not be uninteresting to learn the effect produced in the island by the civil war then waging in the mother country, I will proceed to offer a few words on the state of Madeira in the year 1833, leaving others to pronounce whether our national mania for meddling was advantageous, or the reverse, to this particular spot.

Every mind was absorbed in the contemplation of the struggle carrying on between the two brothers of the house of Braganza, and in intrigues, according to the political bias of the different parties.

Private society was completely destroyed; discord pervaded every family; commerce was depressed ; the results of the violence with which the British merchants had entered the arena

14 DON ALVARO DA COSTA.

of political dissension.* The rancour and bitterness of party spirit evinced by these individuals surpass almost any thing of the description witnessed by me, even in England, and were the less excusable, as they were bound by the position they held as foreigners, and in a land where they were only tolerated on sufferance, not to cabal against the government, which, however execrated, and justly execrated by its own subjects, had always, to them, at least, extended a beneficent and protecting hand. And while on this subject, it would be unjust to pass over in silence the officer to whom the government of Madeira had at this time been confided, Don Alvaro da Costa.

Notwithstanding his intimate knowledge of the cabals carrying on against him, personally, as well as against the government of which he was the representative, still mildness and urbanity characterised his every proceeding, while nothing could exceed the promptness and justice with which he

* I must exonerate Mr. Webster Gordon from any participation in these unworthy proceedings ; his conduct throughout was, as it always is, that of a gentleman, a man of the world, and true British merchant.

listened to and decided upon every grievance brought under his notice by the British residents, who owe to this upright and excellent man a debt of gratitude which they never can repay. They cannot be ignorant that he alone saved their properties from utter destruction, it being but natural that indignation should pervade the breasts of a large portion of the population at witnessing their national disputes fomented and encouraged by the intrigues of foreigners, and at receiving almost daily intelligence of relatives and friends having, in the mother country, fallen in engagements with the English. I more particularly remember one family being deprived, in a single day, of the father and three sons ; could we have felt surprise had bitter retaliation been the consequence ?

That this did not occur, that aggression was not visited with aggression, nor blood avenged with blood, the merchants of Madeira are jj&ebbted solely to Don Alvaro da Costa. The following anecdote is characteristic of his forbearance, and will, I trust, call up blushes of shame when, the excitement of politics having passed away, the personages alluded to will be enabled to scrutinize their actions through a medium more creditable to their country, and to their calling.

A clerk of one of the leading mercantile houses having become enamoured of a Portuguese young lady, made proposals of marriage, the rejection of which by the father, led him to the design of assassinating him.

Waylaying him one evening, he rushed upon him, pulling at the same time the trigger of a pistol, which fortunately missing fire, enabled the old man to commence a struggle with his assailant. It was, however, but brief; what could avail age, and age defenceless, against youth and weapons ? The grey-headed victim was felled to the earth, and his adversary, drawing a second pistol from his pocket, deliberately discharged its contents into the body of the prostrate father, in vain imploring mercy for his daughter's sake. The miscreant was seized and conveyed to prison ; and then commenced the intrigues of the English faction. Tears of compassion were shed for this " poor young gentleman," (thus was the ruffian designated ;) subscriptions were entered into in his favour, plans formed to bribe the jailer, a place of refuge prepared for him when escaped from prison. In a word, this murderer — (for assuredly he merits the appellation, although his intended victim, after months of agony, eventually recovered from the wound) — this murderer, I repeat, was regarded as a martyr in a righteous cause, and for no other reason, but that he professed himself a Pedroite, while the object of his vengeance had enrolled himself in the ranks of the opposite party. Where was the spirit of our fathers ? where the proverbial rectitude of the British merchant, when a criminal like this could be transformed by party feeling into a second Brutus — be deemed worthy of protection and applause ?

I am unwilling to dilate upon this disgraceful occurrence, and will therefore dismiss it, merely observing, that, before quitting Madeira, I was informed that this person had effected his flight from jail, and was living unmolested in the house of an Englishman. For here, indeed, an Englishman's

18 DOMAIN OF M. DE CAVALHO.

house was truly his " castle ;" and the consequence of this mistaken delicacy on the part of the authorities, was — and I blush in recording the fact — that more than one Englishman's " castle" in Madeira was a sanctuary for the murderer and the traitor !

Who has ever been in the island without visiting the magnificent domain of M. de Cavalho ? On asking if this gentleman were there, I learnt he had been mixed up in some conspiracy against the government, and had deemed it advisable to withdraw into exile. Sincerely lamenting the event, as report represents him munificent, hospitable, and charitable, I proceeded to his estate, although told by the party to which he belonged that I should be disappointed ; that the property, thanks to the government, was an absolute ruin, the trees all felled to the earth, and the mansion tenanted by a rude soldiery. I frankly confess I almost desired this should be the case, wishing to find my informants as to the state of the island, for once, not in fault.

On arriving at the handsome iron gates, we were civilly received by the porters. They escorted us

DOMAIN OF M. DE CAVALHO. 19

in our walk, directing attention to the spots most worthy of observation. In vain I cast my eyes around for the felled trees ; the stately forest amply contradicted the calumny. In vain I looked for the rude band of lawless soldiers, a guard of three men only was there stationed to protect the property. The interior of the mansion exhibited the utmost neatness, and the costly furniture was preserved as carefully as if the master himself had been present.

The only symptoms of devastation I could perceive, were on some superb pillars near the hall of entrance, on the observatory, and on the family chapel.

These places, I must admit, were defaced by numerous couplets and phrases in the English language, such as are sometimes seen at a country inn — the names of numerous visitors, English, Irish, and Scotch, with dates of arrival, were duly recorded; while sundry hieroglyphics, not of a very decent description, wound up the whole. The guide, without doubt, divined what was passing in my mind, and with a peculiar

20 DOMAIN OF M. DE CAVALHO.

smile observed — but I will not repeat the effusions of his honest indignation ; suffice it to say, that I fully coincided with him, and turned from the degrading exhibition with shame and disgust.

I had now seen enough of Madeira, and on the following morning was many leagues on the ocean, sailing with a prosperous breeze for the West Indies.

ARRIVAL IN THE WEST INDIES. 21

Chapter II

Arrival in the "West Indies — Object of these Sketches — Fault of former Works— State of Party— Fury of the Planters — Plans to cripple the Abolition Bill — Origin of Reports respecting Insurrections— Motives.

In the month of December, 1833, I arrived in the West Indies, and served there with my regiment until its return to this country, towards the close of the year 1836.

The following pages are submitted to the public with the view of showing, from the result of personal observation, how far the West India planters deserve, either by their own character, or by their conduct towards the negroes, that degree of confidence or of forbearance which they have of late so arrogantly claimed at the hands of this country.

22 OBJECT OF THESE SKETCHES.

The period to which the notice of the reader will be called is that critical one which immediately preceded and followed the introduction of that most nugatory and deceptive of measures, as the planters have contrived hitherto to make it, the Act for the Establishment of Negro Apprenticeship ; and a very instructive specimen of the manner in which that boon of the mother country was, in one island at least, ushered in by the colonial authorities, will be particularly described. If any one should be disposed to think that details of private society have been unnecessarily introduced, let him consider, in the first instance, with reference to the assertions of the planters and their agents, how much the credibility of a witness is affected by his habits of life, and let him remember in the next place, that the claims which the negroes have upon us, whether for protection or instruction, cannot be duly estimated, unless we know what are the people to whose control they are subject, and what are the examples which are immediately before their eyes.