Travels in the interior of Mexico, in 1825, 1826, 1827, & 1828

Front matter

Via . —

P -M'Arh- •‘X

Vi , i

Preface

So much has, within these few years, become known of Mexico, through the writings of various intelligent individuals, that the present might almost be considered a presumptuous undertaking, to increase the already large stock of knowledge respecting that republic ; and the more so, as the Author’s recent return to England, and constant occupation since his arrival, have not permitted him the gratification of perusing the works of preceding travellers, which probably might have prevented him from falling into some errors of repetition. As the writer of the following pages, however, travelled over a part of Mexico visited by no other Euro-

IV

PREFACE.

pean, he trusts that the Public will bestow upon this attempt to interest them, that indulgence which may be due, not indeed to his merit, but to his good intentions.

London,

October, 1829.

ADVERTISEMENT

TO THE READER.

The reader, perhaps, will have no reason to regret the omission of those various minutiae so inseparable from the annoyances of a sea-voyage, nor be displeased that I commence my travels from the city of Mexico, without conveying him over the intolerably bad roads from Vera Cruz, where I landed, to the capital. It may be enough to observe, that if jolting be indeed good for a bilious constitution, there could be devised no surer “ road to health ” than the one I have here alluded to : it may, however, be as well that I should enter into a brief statement of the peculiar objects that took me to Mexico, distinct from those of mere amusement and curiosity; namely, that I was engaged in the capacity of a commissioner, by “ the General Pearl and Coral Fishery Association of

VI

ADVERTISEMENT.

London,” — (a subject to which I shall have occasion hereafter to advert). This commission embraced a period from the 7th May 1825 to the 7th May 1828, both days inclusive, as a good accountant would take care to observe.

It is yet too early in the day to state the ultimate success or failure of this undertaking, as a “ Statement” will hereafter appear which details the whole business. I would not, therefore, wish that my readers should draw any conclusions at present, which, on farther inquiry, may turn out quite contrary to the exact state of the case, and which would occasion me no small disappointment, especially as it might be no easy matter to remove opinions hastily formed, and too often firmly adhered to. Moreover, as it may be safely concluded that the enterprise was either successful or unfortunate, I would by no means have the Public, whether scientific or curious, give themselves one moment’s fruitless uneasiness about the results, but leave them to the clear and satisfactory eclair cissement of

Their devoted servant.

THE AUTHOR.

Chapter I

The Chief Mexican Hotel. — Assassination. — Association of Gamblers. — First Impressions.— Filth of the lower classes of people, and their habitations. — The Streets and Environs. — Visit to the Palace. — Sketch of some of the Public Men. — Negociation with the Government for the Pearl Fishery. — A rival. — Difficulties overcome. — The Author obtains a License, and receives his Passport for the Gulf of California. Page 1 — 22

Chapter II

The Author quits Mexico. — Santa Fe. — Seven crosses. — Painful sensations. — Lerma. — Volcan de Toluca. — Deference paid to military Men. — Mexican curiosity. — Singular Adventure. — Real de Tlalpuhagua. — Bull Fights. — Caterpillars. — Vein of Obsidian. — Village of Ucareo. — Curious Illusion. — Amusements. — The Fandango. — Mine of Ozumatlan. — City of Charo. — A Character. — Arrival at Valladolid — Fashionable Ball. — General M . — Iturbide. — Effects of the Revolution 23 — 44

Chapter III

The Author calls upon the Governor. — Congress-hall. — A Joe Miller. — Quits Valladolid. — A Cura. — Fords the Rio Grande. — Hospitality. — The Waterfalls of Puente, Grande. — Family disturbances. — Guadalaxara. — An invitation. — Christ-

CONTENTS.

viii

mas feasts. — Society. — A Beauty.— A laughing Colonel. — Leaves Guadalaxara. — Suspicious Characters. — Sugar Plantations.— Passes the Real of Ostostapaquillo. — Precipices. — Beauty of the Scenery. — A Procurador. — A Poet. — Arrives at Pitic 4.5 — 63

Chapter IV

Diving Bell, — Native gold. — Quits Pitic. — A Genius. — A ferry. — Sheep-ticks. — Rio Canas. — The inhospitality of a Gaoler, and of a Cura. — Curious fruit. — Sympathy in plants. — An old Englishman.— Modesty. — Character of Don Miguel Riesgo. — A gold mine. — A chemist. — Leaves Rosario. — Arrives at Mazatlan. — The Commandant and his wife 64 — 82

Chapter V

A wreck. — Servants refuse to embark. — A cabin passenger. — A surveyor.— -New mode of admeasurement. — Arrival at the Port of Guaymas.’ — A tender Captain. — A songstress. — The founder of the Port. — Reptiles. — Revolution of Indians. — Quits Guaymas. — A rencontre. — A discovery. — Arrives at Pitic. — New Characters. — Opinions respecting pearl-beds in the Gulf. — An Italian Priest. — A wooden diving-bell. — Extravagances.—A portrait. — Abuses 83 — 102

Chapter VI

Atrocious murder. — Party spirit. — Assassins escape punishment.— Intentions defeated. — Leaves Pitic. — Hospitality. — Letters of introduction. — A patient. — Antidotes for Hydrophobia.— Jesuits. — An injurious law. — A Monster. — A singular mineral vein. — The Devil’s Leap. — Jasper. — Pumice and other stones. — A valley 103 — 133

Chapter VII

Arrives at Oposura. — Mines. — Danger of entering old mines. — A lair. — Black pearls. — Fables. — Technicalities. — Arrival of Company’s vessels at Guaymas. — Reasons for not at present embarking. — Leaves Oposura. — Extraordinary aperture of the

CONTENTS.

IX river. — A Cottage. — Information. — Thermometer 101°. — Pinole.— A singular Priest. — A female Statuary.- — Intoxicating effects of heat. — Rebellion again breaks out. — The country in arms. — Opata valour. — A friar’s philosophy. — Tumult,— Paintings of a church. — Arrives at los Alamos 134 — 170

Chapter VIII

Mode of irrigating lands. — Political changes ; seldom attempted by the rich. — Amusements. — A gambling anecdote. — Mineral wealth, and transactions of the Real.— Quits Alamos. — Arrives at La Villa del Fuerte. — Patriotism. — Character of the Governor. — Political schisms. — Orders that no person should quit the town. — Alarms. — Defeat of Colonel Guarrero. — A panic. — “ A warrior bold.” — A deputy. — Empiric. — A case. — A postman murdered. — Leaves Fuerte, passes the late field of battle, and arrival at Alamos.— Confusion. — Banderas. — Wounds. — Effect of fear upon the timid. — Retribution — Remonstrance. — A seat of learning. — A discovery for diving; it dies with the inventor.— A conversation upon the subject 71 — 204

Chapter IX

Provisions. — Society. — Quits Alamos. — A mineral spring. — A real friend in distress. — A nostrum. — Arrives at Buenavista. — Controversy. — A guide. — Privations. — A dangerous Pass. — Enemy in view. — Difficulties. — Cause of dreams. — Cactus. — In danger of starvation. — Intricacies. — Consolation. — Arrives at Guaymas. — Alarms. — Petitions. — A vessel arrives. — Embarks in the Wolf, and proceeds to sea 205 — 230

Chapter X

Translation of documents, &c. relating to the Pearl Fishery, — A general outline. — Cause of the Fishery’s decay. — Arrives at Loreto — The Virgin deprived of her jewels. — A great genius. — Influence of habit upon the mind. — Colour. — Morals. — Fatal effects of dried figs. — Salt. — List of known pearl-beds. — A Pass. — La Paz. — Embarks in the Bruja ; sails from Loreto on a voyage of discovery. — Investigates the Gulf of Molexe. — The Author be-

X

CONTENTS.

comes a diver. — Effects of pressure of the water on the fine vessels of the ears and eyes. — The imagination, how effected. — Sea-monsters. — Oyster’s power of locomotion. — Reason why neither diving-bell nor drags can be beneficially employed in the Gulf. — Deception of the senses. — Fissures in the submarine rocks. — Diver's mode of defence. — Stimulating effects of hope. — A submarine adventure 231 — 260

Chapter XI

A nocturnal fight with a lion. — -An ebbing and flowing well. — The Depoa tree. — Singular hunts. — Quits the Gulf of Molexe, and arrives at the Mission. — The harbour. — A curious friar. — State of the Indians. — Advantages of equality. — A visit. — A tottering cavalcade. — Delicate attentions. — Leaves Molexe. — Island of San Marcus. — Wild goats. — Talc. — The Islands of Sal si Puedes. — Arrives at the Island of Tiburon. — A singular cure. — A delicate artist. — Fresh-water. — Ghosts 261 — 288

Chapter XII

The Tiburon Indians resemble a Patagonian tribe. — Search after pearls and native gold. — Canoes. — Discovers a bay and an island. — Padre Kino. — Witches. — Turtle. — Concha naca. — An amusement. — Method of poisoning arrows. — One thousand men sent to subdue the Tiburon Indians. — Their good qualities. — Sails from, the island. — Seals. — Manuscript charts ceased to be useful. — Goes on shore. — Discovers a new island. — Meditations. — A horrid fight. — Birds. — Flies. — Crabs, a curious contrivance. — Effects of solitude upon the animal spirits 289 — 311

Chapter XIII

Crew in danger of Shipwreck. — Obstinacy saves the vessel. — Discovers another new island. — A second attempt to find the Rio Colorado. — Chaotic confusion of the sea. — Discovers a new bay. — Storm continues. — Anchors in the mouth of the Red River.— Superstition. — Alarm. — Visits the shore and gives names to two new islands. — Ascends the river. — Carry away the rudder. — Tide. — Ground. — River Gila.— -Flies.-— Banks of the river. —

CONTENTS.

XI

Aa attempt made in the year 1 750 to form a colony. — 111 success attending it. — Indian philosophy. — Ruins. — Investigates the river above. — Indians. — Nectar. — Harangue. — Two blind Indians.— A fishing-net and earthen jars. — An island. — Returns to the vessel. — Visit from naked Indians. — Prepares for action. — Mosquitoes troublesome at night 312 34*1

Chapter XIV

Indians ; their rural garbs. — An interpreter. — A message. — A second interpreter. — A warlike speech. — A great Indian chief. — Indians congregate round the vessel. — Their designs detected.— A witch. — A rough salutation. — The witch’s sang-froid. — The Author rejects the Indian chief’s proposals. — Superiority of civilized life over that of savages. — Another attempt discovered. — A singular visit of ceremony. — Gains the witch. — Her song of enchantment. — Dismisses the Indians. — Adopts fresh methods of defence. — The vessel again floats in mid-channel. — Reflections. — A tender visitant. — Indian children. — The Axua nation; their peculiarities, &c. described 342 — 373

Chapter XV

Effects of currents in the river. — A large fire. — Indians appear, one of whom speaks to us. — A message. — A visit. — Another fire. —Falling of the banks at night. — Fluctuations of the tide, — A suspicious character. — A blank-cartridge fired. — More Indians. — Their gout. — The capitan. — The vessel descends the river. — The absence of a chronometer felt. — Notice respecting names given to points in the Californian gulf and Rio Colorado.— Bruja quits the river. — Inutility of advice. — Names some

new islands. — Equinoctial gales of September Arrives at Guay-

mas. — Yaqui revolution not terminated. — Juan de la Bandera. — His eloquence. — His activity. — His achievements — His temerity.— Progress of his affairs. — His policy. — Captures goods valued at 30,000/. — He is attacked. — Pursues his object. — Sends effects over to the Tiburon island. — A marriage. — Polemical discussion. — Naval Cadets. — A facetious remark respecting matrimony ..... 374 —402

Xll

CONTENTS,

Chapter XVI

Exportations and Importations. — Reasons for discontinuing the Pearl Fishery. — Arrangements. — Quits Guaymas. — Exchange no robbery. — Nature and man change sides. — An expedient.— Author’s indisposition. — Effects of the Indian revolution.— A gallant Colonel. — Bandera’s policy. — Copper mines. — Chinese method. — Effects of gold upon the mind. — Reports. — Thorax. — Diseases. — Anecdotes. — Charcoal pills. — Cures the bite of the rattle-snake. — Sonora and Senaloa : its placeres de oro. — Qualities of that metal, and aggregate produce. — Arizona.

— Las Cartas de los Jesuitas The Arizona investigated. —

Mines ; a singular one incapable of being worked. — Productions. — State of Finance. — Salaries. — Expenses occasioned by the Yaqui war. — Effects of the independence. — Mexican’s fears of enriching Europe. — Indian tribes. — The Opata language, poetry, and dances. — Rivers. — Soil. — Insalubrity of the waters. — Diseases.— A contradiction. — Proportion of whites to Indians ; of men to women. — Lower California, its climate and productions. — Upper California. — A new way to pay old debts. . . 403 — 449

Chapter XVII

Leaves Oposura. — Prevention better than cure. — Usual food of cattle. — The roads. — Saints.— Cochineal. — Foreigners. — Patients,— 'Hospitality. — A singular case. — Termination of La Sierra Madre. — North American traders. — Liquor. — Bears. — A rich mine. — Bark of the wild cherry equal to the bark of peru. — Morality. — El Cobre. — A hot spring. — Ruins. — Wild Dogs. — A Cavern. — Pit-coal. — A singular earth. — Wit. — Mines. — Creadero de oro. — Real del Parral. — A fight. — Soap. — Arrives at Chihuahua. — A curious fellow. — Cathedral. — Jesus Maria. — An Anecdote.— An Expedient. — Mode of sowing maize. — A mass of iron. — The Arts. — Hacienda de la Zarca. — Another odd fellow.— Cotton. — A Mine. — A Friar. — State of peasantry. — Hacienda for sale.— A Robber. — A French Marquise. — Strong food. — Arrives at Zacatecas. — Jalap. — A pretended Friar. — The soil,_A Philosopher. — The Sheffield of Mexico.— A saint pedlar 450 — 498

CONTENTS.

Xlll

CHAPTER XVII 1.

Arrives at Guanaxuato. — A Widow. — A Church. — Dysentery. — General Mina. — An Inscription. — The two most fanatical towns in Mexico — Hints respecting Bugs. — Industry and modesty.— Snow-capped mountains. — Love of Natural History.— Intrigue. — The Tertulia. — Merit rewarded. — Parties. — General Bravo. — The Quadro Historico. — Passing a law. — Mines. — Liberty of the Press. — Police. — Indians. — A censure. — A brief sketch of the resources, &c. of the Republic. — Quits the city of Mexico. — Pressure of the atmosphere at different elevations. — Embarks at Vera Cruz. — Island of Sacrificios ; Tio Antonio. — Passengers. — St. Vitus’s dance. — Arrives in the United States. — Comparison. — Quits the United States, and arrives in England 499 — 594

Appendix 535 — 540

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Map of Sonora and Gulf of California. Game of Monte, in the streets of Mexico .

To face Title-page.

Pilgrimage performed in Mexico

Mexican Cavallero

Plan of the Rio Colorado

Morning salutations in Mexico

Water Carrier in Mexico

An Evangelista, or Letter-Writer in the Haza Grande ofMexico .

VIGNETTES.

Indian Music Ancient Mexican jar

359 & 441 . 465

ERRATA.

Page 13, line 3, for 4 Painsett,3 read 4 Poinsett.’

— 80,

—

2,

—

‘ Guayamas,’

— 4Giiaymas.’

— 93,

—

1,

‘ Adnana,’

•— ‘Aduana.’

— 106,

—

6,

‘ not no indifferent,’

— 4 not an indifferent.’

— 108,

—

27,

—

4 creaderos des oro,’

— 4 creatjero de oro.’

— 123,

—

15,

—

4 Penou,’

— 4 Peuon.5

— 125,

—

11,

—

4 Tesmetuca,’

— 4Tesmeluca.’

— 205,

—

12,

— -

‘nine or ten shillings,’

— 4 nine or ten dollars.’

— 209,

24,

—

4Toriu,*

— ‘Torin.’

— 224,

—

30,

—

* supplied with eagerness,’

— 4 applied with eagerness.’

— 4 Tiburon.3

— 227,

— •

2,

— —

4 Tiburow,’

— 239,

—

25,

—

4 Carmina,’

— 4 Carmin.’

— 256,

—

5,

—

‘ ten inches or a foot,’

— 4 two or three fathoms.’

— 289,

—

1,

—

4 Tiburow.’

— 4 Tiburon.’

— 364,

—

12,

—

4 countenance,’

— 4 complexion.’

— 371,

—

29,

—

4 for motives,3

— . * from motives.*

— 378,

7,

— S

4 the stern,’

— 4 the stem.’

— 379,

—

14,

4 when it did arrive,’

— 4 when it should arrive.’

— 386,

—

15,

—

4 estero,’

— 4 estuary.’

— 393,

—

10,

—

4 Santa Kita,*

— 4 Santa Rita.3

— 395,

—

11,

—

4 cosnider,’

— 4 consider.’

— 396,

—

30,

—

4 poisonous missals,’

— * poisoned missiles.’

— 407,

—

21,

—

* Los Arrieso.%’

— 4 Los Arrieros.’

— 408,

—

—

4 La Alanita,’

— 4 La Alamita.’

— 436,

22,

4 Indeed it would appear that they have been fearful of too much enriching Europe and North America by the restrictions which they have laid on commerce.

— 4 Indeed it would appear,

by the restrictions which have been laid on commerce, that they are fearful of too much enriching Europe and North America.’

— 438,

—

11,

—

4 Yamas,’

— 4Yumas.’

— 446,

— 464,

—

9,

—

‘ Los tres Virgines,’

— 4 Las tres Virgines.’

—

21,

4 Rio delosCasaGrandes,’

— 4 Rio delas Casas Grandes.’

— 486,

— '487,

—

16,

—

4 corga,’

— 4 carga.’

—

7,

—

4 mason,’

— ■ 4 meson.*

— 488,

—

18,

—

4 Los Canas,’

— 4 Las Cauas.’

; — 494,

—

8,

—

4 Piedoagorda,’

— 4 Piedragorda.’

—

28,

—

4 Lerara,’

— 4 Lerma.’

— 503,

—

19,

—

4 El Pareo,

— 4 El Paseo.*

— 506,

• —

2,

—

4 Teporatlan,’

*— 4 Tepozatlan.’

— 506,

—

9,

—

4 Tarepantla,’

— 4 Tanepantla.’

— 507,

—

1,

—

4 Mr. Graves,’

— 4 Mr. G eaves.’

— 509,

—

25,

—

4 Meehotitlan,’

— 4 Meehotitlan.’^

— 512,

—

6,

—

4 Don Andreo,’

— 4 Don Andies.

TRAVELS

IN THE

INTERIOR OF MEXICO.

Chapter I

The chief Mexican Hotel. — Assassination. — Association of Gamblers. — First Impressions. — Filth of the lower classes of people, and their habitations. — The Streets and Environs. — Visit to the Palace. — Sketch of some of the Public Men. — Negociation with the Government for the Pearl Fishery. —

A rival Difficulties overcome. — The Author obtains a

License and receives his Passport for the Gulf of California.

Who is there that has not found fault with a prosy book of travels : for it requires no talent to find fault, as even I have been guilty of this misdemeanor, little dreaming that it would ever come to my own turn to excite the same feeling ? Take, then, good reader, this gentle admonition to thine

B

CHIEF MEXICAN HOTEL.

own heart, and, though it should cost thee some effort to be silent, remember that

“ To err is mortal, to forgive divine !”

With this little preliminary observation, I shall sit myself down in the “ Gran Sociedad” of Mexico, which some call “ Suciedad,” the one being society, and the other dirtiness ; and we will enter on an examination of its structure, appropriation, and conveniences, all being essential to complete the picture. There is, indeed, in this building, no want either of light or shade, any more than in the character of many of those who frequent it, as will be seen hereafter ; and, as it is the principal hotel in Mexico, no excuse could warrant the omission of a notice so important to travellers, and so characteristic of a Mexican Sociedad.

This important edifice occupies the corner of the two streets of the Espiritu Santo and del Refugio, which run at right angles to each other. The latter conducts from the Plaza Grande, occupied on one side by the Cathedral of Mexico, on another by the Palace, on a third by the Portal de las Flores, and on the fourth by the Parian ; and this Sociedad stands in the second square of buildings, to the westward from the Plaza Grande. In front, General Moran, the Ex-Marquis de Vivanco (who has been obliged to leave his country, owing to the civil war of opinion which has for some time past distracted it,) has a house ; and adjoining it, to the northward, is that of

CHIEF MEXICAN HOTEL.

the Sieur Zavala, the present Governor of the State of Mexico.

I found nothing remarkable in the approach to the Gran Sociedad, or prepossessing in its external appearance. Great improvements, however, have latterly been made in it, keeping pace with the march of taste ; and it now looks far more inviting than it did at the period to which I refer — the 17th July, 1825. It is a large and nearly square building, of two stories high, having the principal entrance in the Calle del Espiritu Santo, through a double doorway, large enough to admit a coach. Within this, at the distance of about five yards, is a second doorway, composed of iron, partly closed, of the same description as those in London, placed in situations where only foot passengers are admitted, having a strong iron bar in the centre of the pass to prevent the intrusion of porters with luggage. Immediately on passing this second barrier, the visitor finds himself in an interior paved square of considerable dimensions, surrounded on three sides by columns, supporting a flat roof, which below serves for a covering, or portal, and above for a balcony. The columns, once adorned with whitewash, were now arrayed in all the splendour of a greasy brown, from the frequent application of dirty hands. Under the portal to the left, is placed a long painted table, with an equally long bench towards the wall ; and this is for the accommodation of those visitors who wish to take their coffee and smoke their cigars in more peaceful

b 2

ASSASSINATION.

tranquillity out of doors. There is on the same side a door, which leads to the largest room in the house* over which is written “ Cafe,” and in which, of an evening, the whole world of beauty and fashion assemble to take ice, &c. It is not many months since a Mexican gentleman entered this room with his wife and daughters, for the purpose of indulging in this innocent luxury. The waiter was however insolent, and the gentleman was expressing his anger, when an officer of the army placed himself between the disputants and struck the gentleman on the breast. The blow did not appear to be violent, and was so sudden that few observed the action ; the gentleman, however, instantly fell down and expired ! Upon inquiring into the cause, it was found that he had been stabbed to the heart with a knife. The horror and distress of the family who were eyewitnesses of this act of barbarity, may be better conceived than described. The officer was taken into custody, but persisted in saying that he had merely struck the deceased with his open hand

Immediately fronting this room, on the other side of the square, is a billiard-table, where only the best and deepest players are allowed to exhibit their dexterity, and to witness which great numbers assemble of an evening. At the end of this room, towards the street, is another of smaller dimensions, dark, dirty, and dismal; and farther on, a third, wherein are placed little painted tables, for the convenience of such as desire to take chocolate. Here, too, numbers assemble of an evening,

SUBJECTS OF CONVEKSATION.

before the theatre opens, to .talk and pass an idle hour. Many a speech of an hour’s length have I heard here, without having been either instructed or fatigued by it ; so desultory, and at the same time so eloquent, were the speakers. Sound reasoning, indeed, is seldom heard in Mexico, and never duly appreciated, as all may know who have attended the sittings of the General Congress and Senate. But that degree of animated volubility, rather than eloquence, which gives smoothness to a sentence, without conveying any precise meaning, is by no means uncommon in Mexico, even amongst those of the lowest class of society. Yet as I do not mean to follow up this subject by a dissertation, I shall only mention, that the chief food for conversation in this apartment, is furnished by two periodical papers, the “ Sol” and the “ Aguila,” which, even at this period, were the organs of the two parties that have since been so destructive to the tranquillity of the country.

Let us now take a review of the up-stairs apartments, without noticing sundry little rooms, on the ground-floor, of less notoriety. The stairs by which you ascend to the former are of brick. At the top, are two corridors which lead to the dining-room, on the left, and forward to the “ Sala,” which is chiefly supported by a party of gamblers, who without producing any money, have a settling-day as is the case on our Stock Exchange, only that theirs is once a month instead of quarterly. The other rooms on the same floor are occupied by billiard-

A MEXICAN COOK.

tables, at which the balls are allowed no tranquillity from eleven o’clock in the morning till eleven at night, and their continual rattle gives one the idea of entering a carpenter’s workshop, where the mallet and chisel are in constant requisition ; but which impression is quickly destroyed by the monotonous voice of the marker, crying out, “ viente y quartro y guego,” (twenty-four and the game,) in a tone which conveys no sound of harmony to the loser !

This hotel is not provided with a table-d’hote ; but the dining-room, which is honoured with its name “ Comedor,” inscribed over the entrance, is furnished with a long table, covered generally by a greasy cloth, where the cravings of the appetite may be appeased for a dollar and a quarter, wine extra, as saith the bill of fare. It is true, the viands are not of the most tempting kind, nor indeed are they cooked in the cleanest way : but every one reconciles himself with the reflection, that “ it is good enough for a sociedad.” The cook herself is indeed a hornament, as a cockney would say ; and in truth, I know of no regular word which might at all suit the subject. She may be an amiable creature, for any thing I know to the contrary ; but if dirty linen, feet without shoes or stockings, a face covered with brilliant semispheres, reflecting the fire like a sort of moveable reverberating furnace ; hair as dishevelled as that of a Gorgon, and not remarkable cleanliness ; hands which had never been washed

SLEEPING APARTMENTS.

since she took possession of her office ; and delicate lips, which only half- concealed a set of black and decayed teeth, and which confined within their tender grasp a paper-cigar, whose smoke found an exit only through her gently-expanding nostrils ; add to all which qualifications, a skin and complexion like an olive, and quite as greasy ; if this lovely picture of Eve has charms for my reader, let him hasten to this glittering land of mines, where he will scarcely find a kitchen which cannot present a living original, whereof this, I confess, is but a faint sketch !

At the back of the “ comedor ” are four sleepingrooms, up one pair of stairs, the only furniture of which consists of a painted board bedstead, an old chair, and a table. Of these four I chose the best, and had presently the bed which I had brought from on ship-board made up, my trunks placed in convenient situations, and the room swept out by my servant, as the hotel is not supposed to have an officer to perform this necessary duty ; or which, by the by, is not necessary, if the lodger has no objection to the filth of the brick-floor and perforated mud-walls, said to be white-washed, and having wreaths of flowers painted at the top, and at about the height of the back of a chair from the bottom, which certainly add greatly to the horrible effect. Let it, however, be recollected, that this is the best hotel in Mexico — and I leave my reader to judge what the others must be !

FILTH OF THE LOWER CLASSES

After having satisfied my appetite with a couple of dainty dishes at the public table below, I proposed to myself to take a walk. Not having any objection to change the scene, I walked to the right and left without any object ; and although it was Sunday, the number of people whom I passed in the streets, wearing neither shoes nor stockings, and many even without shirts, with a sort of dirty blanket carelessly thrown over their shoulders, did not fail to awaken many painful reflections. Is it possible, thought I, that in a land which nature has made her hoard, and man her heir, that the fruits of her gifts should be productive only of abject misery, or at least, of such individual abandonment as is here seen, which renders man the most pitiable object of the creation and the most miserable of his kind ? On passing through the streets, I observed little apartments (originally intended to be occupied by coaches) filled with women, more than half-naked, and men sprawling on the floor from the effects of inebriation. The children were perfectly naked. Some of the women were engaged in grinding, on a stone, Indian corn, which was presently converted by another hand, into a sort of pancake, called Tortilla, and which is considered a gi'eat delicacy in Mexico !