ti-ping tien-kwoh; the history of the ti-ping revolution

Front matter

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RESENTED BY

Chapter I

Arrival in Victoria—The Happy Valley.—Hong-Kong.—Tanka ‘Boat Girls.—Chinese Boatmen: their Evil Propensities.—Captain Mellen’s Adventure.—Canton Girls.—Amusements in China.— Cafés Chantants.—The Exhibition. — Temple of Lanterns. — Chinese Character.—Piracy in China.—The “North Star.”— Fate of the Crew.— Tartar Cruelty. — Adventure with Pirates. —Sporting.—Duck-shooting.—Chinese Hospitality.—Mandarin Barbarity. — Whampoa. — Marie the Portuguese. — Marie’s History : her Escape.—Description of Marie: her Excitability : her Jealousy ™... Be NG bof se reel

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Chapter II

Hung-sui-tshuen.—Clanship in China.—Hung-sui-tshuen’s Genealogy : his Education,—Extraordinary Visions: Description of them.— Description of Hung-sui-tshuen: his Early Days: his Visions Explained: his Conversion: how. effected.—Hung-sui-tshuen’s Preaching: his Religious Essays. —The God-worshippers. — Destruction of Idols.—Progress of God-worshippers.—Numbers increase.—Hostilities commence.—God-worshippers Victorious. —‘ Imperialist ” Cruelty.—Bishop of Victoria.—Chinese Dynasty proclaimed Bek sy aoe sai UROL

Chapter III

The Manchoo Party.—The Ti-ping Party.—The Ti-ping Character.— Conflict with Manchoos.—Chinese Gunboats.—First Ti-ping - Position. — Its Appearance. — Ti-ping Hospitality. — Ti-ping Country described. — Effects of Intervention. — San-le-jow. — Ti-pings Superior to Imperialists.—-Ti-pings and Chinamen.— Ti-ping Costume.—The Honan Ti-pings.—The “Chinese Paris.” —Interview with Chung-wang: his Appearance: his Religious

Feelings: his Penetration: his Policy. — Commission from Chung-wang. —San-li-jow. — A Ti-ping rie —TIis Friendly Bearing.—Arrival at Shanghae_... if EDD:

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Chapter IV

Organization of the Ti-pings.—Hung-sui-tshuen’s Manifesto.—Hung-sui-tshuen Emperor.—Proclamation of Rank.—Ti-ping Titles. — Siege of Yung-gnan.—Ti-ping Successes.—Their Moderation in Victory.—King Yang’s Proclamation.—Tien-wang’s Proclamation.—Cruelty of Imperialists.—Cause of the Revolution.— Chinese History Reviewed.—Corrupt Government.—Tartar Rule. —Manchoo Barbarity

CHAPTER YV.

Shanghae to Han-kow.—River Scenery.—Silver Island.i—The Salt

Trade. — Nin-gan-shan. — Tu-ngliu.—Its Auriferous Soil. — Kew-kiang.—River Scenery.—The Yang-tze River.—The Braves of Han-kow.—Chinese Politeness—Manchoo Policy.—Fire and Plunder. — A Chinese Rudder.— Scenery around Ta-tung. — Appearance of the Country.—Chinese Chess.—Perilous Adventure.—Crew of Mutineers.—Critical Position.—Gallant Rescue. —Explanation.—Alarm of Pirates.—Plan of Operations.—Its Advantages. — The Result. — Another Alarm.— Imperialist ” Pirates

CHAPTER VI. Fall of Nankin.—Manchoo Cowardice. — Immense Booty.—Sir George

Bonham’s Arrival at Nankin.—“ The Northern Prince.”—The Ti-pings fraternize.—Sir George Bonham’s Dispatch.—The Tiping Reply. — Further Communication.—Its Friendly Nature. —Ti-ping Literature.—Its Religious Character. — Bishop of Victoria and Dr. Medhurst’s Opinions.—Ti-ping Publications.— The New Testament.—Monarchy Established.—Occupation of Nankin.—A. Fatal Mistake.—Imperialist Advantages.—Advance of the Ti-pings.—Manchoo Operations.—The Tsing-hae Army.— The Retreat.—Tien-wang’s Mistake —His Opportunity Lost.— Manchoo Tactics.—Inmperialist Outrages.—Ti-ping Moderation. —The Triad Rebels.—They evacuate Amoy.—Captain Fishbourne’s Description.—Triads capture Shanghae.—Imperialist Ageressions. — Jesuits’ Interference. —The French attack the Triads.—Shanghae Evacuated. — British Interference.—Its Conseqtiences

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CONTENTS,

Chapter VII

Home.—Its Desolation.—Intelligence of Marie.—Consequent Proceedings. — Preparations for Pursuit. — River Tracking. — In Pursuit.—The Lorcha Sighted. — Stratagems. — Alongside the Lorcha.—On Board the Lorcha.—Critical Position—A Friend in Need. — Failure. — Lorcha again Reconnoitred. — Increased Difficulties. — Another Attempt.—Alongside the Lorcha again. —WMarie discovered.—Marie rescued.—Safe on Board.—Marie’s Explanation.—The Lorcha in Pursuit.—She gains on us.—The Lorcha opens Fire.—Safe among the Ti-pings

CHAPTER VIII. Ti-ping Operations. —Chinese Apathy.—The Ti-ping Difficulty

The

Popular Feeling—Opposed to the Ti-pings.—Kngland’s Policy. —Her Motives.—Dr. Bridgman describes Ti-pingdom.— His Description of the Ti-pings—X. Y. Z.—Ti-pingdom in 1857.— Tts Internal Economy.—Lord Elgin at Nankin.—Gallant Exploit. —Its Interpretation.—Hung-jin arrives at Nankin.—Hung-jin’s Adventures.—Mr. Hamberg’s Narrative.—Hung-jin’s Pamphlet. —Hung-jin Prime Minister.—Nankin Invested.—Resumption of Hostilities.—“ Indemnity” demanded.—Conditions of Peace. — Cause of Wars with China. — England’s Foreign Policy. — The Opium Wars se ce -

Chapter IX

Sz-wang’s Domestic Life.—Approach to Nankin.—Interior of Nankin.—A Ti-ping Banquet.—Maou-lin, the Chung-wang’s Son. —The Chung-wang’s Palace.—The Chung-wang’s Levee.—Ti-ping Chiefs. — Chung-wang’s Appearance. — Council of War. — The Review. — Cum-ho.—The March.—The Ti-ping Army. — Its Organization.—Selection of Officers.—Equipment of the Army. — Its Formation. —,The Enemy in View. — Their Retreat.— Preparations for Attack.— A Night Attack. — A Stockade carried, — Charge of Manchoo Cavalry.—The Repulse.—The Enemy retreat.—The Pursuit.—Complete Rout of the Manchoos. —Maou-lin’s Bravery.—Return to Nankin

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Xvi CONTENTS.

Pace

Chapter X

Prospects of the Ti-pings in 1860.—Their Operations.—Relief of Nankin.—Rout of the Imperialists—Ti-ping Successes.— British Interference.—Ti-pings advance on Shanghae.—The Chung-wang’s Address.—Mr. Bruce’s Notification.—Mr. Bruce’s Despatch.— The Future of China.—The Chung-wang’s Despatch.—Mr. Bruce’s Inconsistency.— Missionary ‘‘Holmes.”— His Statement. — His Uncourteous Behaviour. — His Inconsistencies. — Suppressed Missionary Reports.—Rev. Griffith Johns’ Report.—Newspaper Extracts. — The Shanghae Massacre of Ti-pings. — Newspaper Extracts.—The Author’s Reflections thereon ue .-. 266

Chapter XI

Ti-ping Polygamy.—Ti-ping Women.—Their Improved Position.— Abolition of Slavery by the Ti-pings.—Its Prevalence in China.— Moral Revolution effected by Ti-pings.—Their Religious Works. —Their Conduct Justified. — Jesuit Missionaries. — Consul Harvey's Despatch.—A pathy of Missionaries.—Its Consequences. — Chinese Antipathy to Christianity. — Christianity of the Ti-pings. — Their Forms of Worship. — Ti-ping Marriages.— Religious Observances.—The Ti-ping Sabbath.—Its Observance. —Their Ecclesiastical System.— Forms of Worship.—The Mo-wang.—Ti-ping Churches ... 300

Chapter XII

Ti-pingdom in 1861.—Its Armies.—The Foreign Policy of England. —Its Consequences.—Admiral Hope’s Expedition.—Comments thereon.—Its Results.—Lord Elgin’s Three Points.—Official Communications. — Secret Orders.—Evidence of such. — Their Object. — Official Communications. — Mr. Parkes’ Despatch analyzed.—Newspaper Extracts.—Official Papers.—Mr. Parkes’ Measures.—His Arrogant Behaviour.—Result of the Yang-tze Expedition. — Ngan-king Invested. — Modus Operandi. — The Ying-wang’s Plans.—His Interview with Mr. Parkes.—Sacrifices his Interests—Sketch of the Ying-wang.—Hung-jin’s Adventures.—The Chung-wang’s Operations.—The Results.—Siege of Hang-chow.—Its Capture.—Manchoo Cruelties.—Position of the Ti-pings in 1861 ‘

Os Lo Sr

CONTENTS. Xvii

PAGK

Chapter XIII

Life in Nankin. — Tiping Character. — Its Friendly Nature. — Religious Observances. — Cum-ho,— Curious Adventure. — A Catastrophe.— Love-making.—Difficulties.—Trip to Shanghae.— Reflections. —On the Yang-tze River.—Life on the River.—An Adventure.—The Deserted Lorcha.— The Murdered Crew. — “ Mellen’s” Fate.—Arrival at Shanghae.—Return Voyage.— Sin-yameu.— A “Squeeze Station.’ —The “ Love-chase.” —

Fraternizing. — Wife-purchasing. — The Grand Canal. — China under Manchoo Rule.—Its Population.—The Manchoo Government Ee A? ie ne Pe ... 360

Chapter XIV

Ti-ping Revolution in 1861.—Official Correspondence.—Its Review.— Professions of Neutrality.—How carried out.—Captain Dew’s Interpretation. — Ti-ping Remonstrance. — Cause of British Hostility. — Mr. Bruce’s Assertions. — Mr. Bruce’s Second Despatch. — Mr. Bruce’s Difficulty. — His Inconsistency. — Despatch No. 3.—Inconsistent Statements.—Ti-pings approach Ningpo. — Interview with Ti-ping Chiefs. — Mr. Hewlett’s Interview with “ Fang.”—General Hwang’s Despatch. — General “ Fang’s” Despatch.—Capture of Ningpo.—British Intervention. — Ti-ping Moderation. — Open Hostilities commenced. — Commander Bingham’s Despatch. — Ti-ping a — Commander Bingham’s Rejoinder __... ; .. O92 re one. siguil st we iba ANE Sele. ae pho: met! ise ee yagi es RA Bea re) |

OP na:

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

CHROMOLITHOGRAPHS.

Chinese Commission

Hong-kong Boat Girls

Marie (portrait) ...

Ti-ping Army going into Action

Silver Island

Ke-tow it

Escape from the Lorcha ... is

The Chung-wang’s Council of War ane _ Defeat of the Tartar Cavalry at the Battle of Hu-kau..

Sale of a Chinese Girl, as witnessed by the Author, at Etching, on the river Yang-tse-kiang

Teaching the Lord’s Prayer in a middle-class aa household ..

Map, showing the vost of the Ti-pings at the tik of the year 1861 . we aft a

A Ti-ping Church ate : A Mast-head view of Nankin from the river, as it appeared on the morning of departure ...

WOOD ENGRAVINGS.

Sing-song Girl Chung-wang’s Head-dress Ti-ping versus Imperialist Chess Board se Chung-wang’s Crown Ti-ping Ladies of rank

A Manehoo Squeeze Station

Frontispiece.

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Wer =) SERN

Fie & ee at | i

THE

TI-PING REVOLUTION.

Chapter I

Arrival in Victoria.—The Happy - Valley.—Hong-Kong.—Tanka Boat Girls.—Chinese Boatmen : their evil propensities.—Captain Mellen’s Adventure.—Canton Girls.—Amusements in China.—Cafés Chantant. —The Exhibition.—Temple of Lanterns. —Chinese Character.— Piracy in China.—The “ North Star.”—Fate of the Crew.—Tartar Cruelty. —Adventure \with Pirates. — Sporting. — Duck-shooting. — Chinese Hospitality.—Mandarin Barbarity.—Whampoa.—Marie the Portuguese.—Marie’s History: her Escape.—Description of Marie: her Excitability : ber Jealousy.

N the summer of 1859, I arrived before the town of Victoria, on board the good ship Hmeu, and cast anchor in the blue waters of its shaded harbour. Victoria is the only town in the island of Hong-Kong, and, viewed from the bay, presents a very imposing appearance, in many respects resembling Gibraltar.

Like the city of the “Sentinel of the Straits,” it is built from the very edge of the sea to some considerable distance up the mountains which constitute the principal portion of the island, and is almost entirely hemmed in by towering masses of time-worn granite, that constitute a grand and effective background to its princely buildings. _ Many of these noble edifices—the dwellings of European merchants and officials, and the British Government works—in the higher parts of the town are well ornamented by gardens; which, with several verdant little

B

2 ARRIVAL IN VICTORIA.

valleys in the hollows of the mountains, some low hills covered with a feathery semi-tropical foliage—Green Island, with its dense bushes on one hand, and Jardine’s, crowned with a noble mansion of that firm, on the other— together with the multitude of junks and European shipping at anchor, and those under weigh crossing and enlivening the scene, afford a charming and picturesque tone to what would otherwise be the unrelieved massiveness and sterility of the place.

There is one Pea beautiful spot in the “ Island of Sweet Waters,” as it is poetically termed by the Chinese, that well repays the trouble of a visit. It is situated some five or six miles from the town, and is named Happy Valley. It is surrounded with luxuriant Asiatic foliage, from the midst of which occasional farmhouses peep out. A fine grassy level forms the centre of the valley, around which is constructed the Hong-Kong racecourse, and this is bounded by a broad carriage-road completely encircling the whole plain; while on the edges of the distant rising ground the burial-place of those Europeans who never return to their home rears above the surrounding evergreens its monumental sculpture.

Happy Valley is surrounded by mountains whose sloping sides are thickly clothed with vegetation; the trees, although of a stunted species, are thickly interlaced with undergrowth and an innumerable variety of everereen bushes, through which murmur many mountain springs, that become in the rainy months swollen into torrents. Although a favourite’ resort of European residents, I hardly consider Happy Valley a good sanatorium ; for, when visiting it at early sunrise, I invariably found thick, damp vapours shrouding it, slow to be dispelled by the morning sun, and strongly significant of fever, and “ Hong-Kong fever”’ in particular.

The colony of Hong-Kong represents most perfectly the success of British enterprise in commercial matters ; and, what is far more important, points to the true mode

THE HAPPY VALLEY. a4 by which Christian and civilized nations may communicate with the Pagan and semi-civilized ones of Asia.

The less said about the cession of the island to England the better; for, although in the year 1841 the Imperial Commissioner, Keshen, coerced by the presence of British troops, agreed to cede it, his Government repudiated this unauthorized agreement, and yet the British made that a casus belli, and afterwards compelled them to sanction and endorse the concession. Many people will, doubtless, say that England was compelled to make war upon the Chinese at that time, in order to defend her subjects and protect their trade and property; but it does not appear that either trade or property had ever been threatened, except through the nefarious opium traffic. The Chinese Government took the best measures to prevent the introduction of this injurious drug into their empire, but the British Government laid themselves open to the charge.of wishing to protect the smugglers and forward the lawless trade.

The colony of Hong-Kong is in many respects to be admired, and it is to be regretted that the ministers of the present day do not appreciate its many advantages. In former days England possessed more statesmen and fewer politicians than now. Of all the blunders which have recently marked her foreign policy, the late intervention in China is the worst ; there we find neither the courage nor intellect. which, in former ages, by talent, energy, and success redeemed even acts of aggression; neither do we perceive any desire to forego that system of unjustifiable interference which is so much calculated to render this great nation contemptible.

Hong-Kong is a free port, and in that lies the secret of how to establish relations with the Chinese, Japanese, or any other exclusive Asiatic people. As the late Mr. Cobden very correctly stated, during the debate upon China in the House of Commons (May 30, 1864), “We

have only to establish free ports on the coast of China, B2

A, HONG-KONG.

withdraw ourselves altogether from political contact with the people, and we shall have a trade with them quite as much, if not more, than if we penetrate into the country and assist in destroying their civilization in a vain attempt to plant our own, for which they are not yet fitted.” There is no necessity whatever to force trade, and when such policy is persisted in, the results are always calamitous. To apply the idea personally: How would any of us like a stranger (foreign to us in every respect) to come and thrust himself into our house, determined to compel us to trade with him, openly professing his intentions to alter our religion, ancient institutions, &c., with his goods in one hand (principally a poisonous drug) and a sword in the other? But let the stranger establish himself close to our house, without aggression or loudmouthed professions of interference with our domestic and public policy, and then, whenever we become aware of the benefit to be derived from him, is it not certain that we should flock to him willingly, and take him amongst us as a friend ?

I caught the first glimpse of real Chinese life directly the anchor fell from the Hmew’s starboard cathead; for although at Singapore and Penang there are many *Celestials,” yet their peculiar manners and customs do not forcibly obtrude themselves upon the notice of a “bird of passage.” They seem, at both places, to be leading a subdued, unnatural, very un-Celestial sort of existence; and, besides, very few Celestial ladies are to be seen about. The ZHmew was scarcely moored when I was startled by the appearance of those amphibious creatures, the Chinese boat and laundry women. ‘The Tanka (boat) girls lead an almost entirely aquatic life, and are actually born, live, and die, on board their floating homes. Their time seems fully occupied in rowing, or sculling with a large oar over the stern of the boat; and this incessant labour makes them strong and well-figured. Until married, it cannot be said they are. either paragons

TANKA BOAT GIRLS. 5 of virtue or modesty; but when married, or betrothed— that is to say, bought by a long-tailed Benedict—they, at all events, seem far less amiable towards the exiled “ Fan-Kwei” (foreign devil), as, in common with most Chinese, they politely designate all foreigners.

The personal charms of these first seen of the Chinese fair sex are by no means so contemptible as Europeans generally imagine. Their long and intensely black hair, brilliant and merry though oblique black eyes, lightyellowish brown and often beautifully clear complexion, and lithe robust figures, constitute a charming and singular variety of feminine attraction. They are a gay thoughtless set these boat-girls; unfortunately, to mar what would otherwise often be a very handsome face, many of them have the flattish nose typical of South China, though the high and more European formed one is by no means uncommon. Through constant exposure to the sun, they are mostly tanned to a regular olivaster gipsy hue, and wicked little gipsies they often are, especially when making a young greenhorn, fresh from his mamma in England, pay six times the proper fare.

The Tanka girls are free in all things unconnected with their work; but, as many are purchased by aged individuals, owners of boats, they are slaves in so far as their occupation is concerned. Very different is it with their unfortunate sisters, the slaves of the washerwomen, who are bought when quite young, and trained to an evil life.

It is a usual thing to see, the moment a ship has anchored, several old laundry hags, each with an attendant retinue of fascinating nymphs, “ taking charge” and establishing themselves in possession of all quarters of the vessel, from the skipper’s cabin to the black cook’s galley. Of course, these little witches make sad havoc of the sailors’ hearts, and generally of their clothes.

It is a singular fact, but no less singular than true, that invariably upon pay-day the number and affection of

6 CHINESE BOATMEN:

these pretty damsels seem to increase and multiply in a surprising manner; and by the very perceptible metallic chinking when they take their departure by the gangway, it would appear that their sweetness of disposition had - not been exerted unsuccessfully.

The boat and laundry women are peculiar to the South of China, being only met with at Macao, Canton, Whampoa, and Hong-Kong. They seem to haye become a distinct part of the population of China since the arrival of Europeans to its shores, as employment by the latter affords their principal means of livelihood. Throughout the year they constantly amuse themselves in the water, swimming and disporting themselves about the above-mentioned harbours, like so many young porpoises in a gale of wind.

Besides the Tanka boats, there are others at Hong- Kong manned by Chinamen; but until quite lately, and until the establishment of a water-police, they formed a very dangerous mode of travelling at night, the crews having frequently robbed and murdered their passengers.

A friend of mine was once very nearly killed by a boat’s crew when being taken to his vessel by them; and although, as it will appear, upon that occasion he managed to escape, he was afterwards brutally murdered by the Chinese. But that terrible affair I will relate at its proper place; for I found his mangled corpse, together with those of his wife and child, some years afterwards, in another part of China.

My friend Mellen was captain of a vessel belonging to himself, and, just after the last Canton war, was at anchor in Hong-Kong harbour. Returning on board late one night, the boatmen—seven in number, six pulling and one in the stern-sheets steering—soon after leaving the shore, instead of steering directly towards his ship, seemed to be keeping away from her. He, of course, endeavoured to make them steer in the right direction ; but with that half-complying, half-defying shuffling of er eth 5

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THEIR EVIL PROPENSITIES. 7 your true Chinaman, they managed to persist on the wrong course until reaching some little distance outside all the shipping. At this moment, and while still a considerable way from his own vessel, which happened to be lying outside all the others in port, he was suddenly struck with some heavy weapon by the man behind him, who was steering. Through a forward movement which he made, the blow luckily missed his head and struck him on the shoulder. Mellen very fortunately had a small revolver with him, and at the moment when the rest of the boatmen started from their seats and rushed to attack him, he turned and shot his first assailant, had just time to face them, firing again and wounding the foremost, when they were upon him, armed with formidable knives and the heavy thole pins used to fasten the oars. In an instant he received several wounds, though: providentially his assailants were too much in each other’s way to use their murderous weapons effectively ; but his revolver being self-acting, without a pause, he was enabled to shoot dead another, and severely wound a fourth. At this, seeing four of their number hors de combat almost within five seconds, two of the remaining robbers lost heart, and jumped overboard to swim for it; the last, a large powerful fellow, closed with Mellen in a fierce and deadly struggle. My friend’s revolver was empty; so, abandoning the weapon that had already rendered such good service, he grappled with his adversary, endeavouring to wrest away the knife with which he was armed.

In the meanwhile, the reports of the pistol and the noise of the struggle had reached the wakeful ears of my friend’s wife, who was by good chance on deck, waiting and watching for her husband’s return. Piercing the darkness of. the night with eager eyes, she faintly discerned a boat in the distance, outside all the other ships, and naturally concluded it must be bound for their vessel. In agony for her husband’s safety, she aroused

8 CAPTAIN MELLEN’S ADVENTURE.

the crew, seized a pistol from the cabin, and set off in the gig to overhaul the boat which had attracted her attention. The gig’s crew pulling fast, arrived at the scene of conflict not an instant too soon; for Mellen being in weak health, was. succumbing to the superior strength of his antagonist, who, with one hand grasping him by the throat, was making fierce efforts to release the other, and plunge the dagger it held into my friend’s breast.

Just at this critical moment, Mrs. Mellen and her boat’s crew arrived alongside, and, seeing all the danger, she presented the pistol at the Chinaman and fired; the ball passed directly through his head and laid him lifeless at her husband’s feet. This gallant act was but one of many instances in which that courageous woman had saved her husband’s life, and in defending which she eventually lost her own—a fruitless though noble sacrifice.

After landing and reporting myself at head-quarters, I finished my first day in China by seeing as much of Celestial life as my uninitiated state permitted. A sedan chair, the usual and aristocratic style of travelling in China, was hired, which for upwards of three hours transported me all over the town. The Chinese —their country—in fact, all about them—will afford an observant stranger an inexhaustible fund of study and amusement ; yet, as a rule, Huropeans are singularly neglectful of the country and most interesting traits of the peculiar people they sojourn amongst. They go to China with the sole idea of making a fortune, and too often in its blind pursuit all other principle is sacrificed. Their whole existence seems a feverish dream to obtain dollars enough to return home wealthy; and very seldom, if ever, are any found sufficiently disinterested or philanthropic to study the welfare and future of the immense Chinese empire.

At first, as foreigners generally are, I was considerably disgusted by the unnatural appearance of the men my lot

CANTON GIRLS. 9 was cast with, consequent upon the shaved head and monkey appendage. This frightful custom in no slight degree adds to the naturally cruel expression of their oblique eyes and altogether peculiar features; in fact, hair is absolutely required to tone down the harsh and irregular contour of their faces.

While wandering through the town, I was much struck by the appearance of many Chinese girls wearing European shoes on naturally formed feet, and head-dresses of brilliant Manchester pattern, in the form of handkerchiefs, folded diagonally and once knotted under the chin, the ends projecting on either side by a particular and almost mathematical adjustment. I soon became convin¢ged that the European proclivities of the Canton girls went much further than this. These young ladies, before marriage or obtaining a ‘‘massa,’”’ wear their front hair cut short and hanging over the forehead, which gives them an expression between that of a London streetpreacher and a person just dragged through a haystack ; their back hair is gathered together and plaited into a long tail, which, when loose, strangely resembles the tail of a black Shetland pony. To the best of my knowledge, the Chinese women never cut their hair, and their system might be beneficially imitated by foreigners, for their tresses are certainly much longer and more luxuriant than those of the women of Europe.

I arrived during the Chinese New Year holidays, which, throughout China, are celebrated with extensive merry-making. At Hong-Kong the new year is welcomed with much festivity, and during many days the cracking of fire-crackers, the roar of petards, and the clanging of gongs is incessant; which, being continued all night, renders: sleep difficult.

I visited, numberless, sing-songs, or theatres, in all of which I found the most persevering of instrumental and vocal performers. Some exclusively confined themselves to musical (Chinese) entertainment, while others were

10 AMUSEMENTS IN CHINA.

devotees of the Chinese Thespis, and, of the two, I think the latter preferable; for, although their principal hits consist of a tremendous crash of gongs, drums, horns, &c. (which invariably places the audience in ecstasies of delight), there is not so much of the shrieking falsetto of the singers, or the scraping of that excruciating tympanum-piercing instrument of torture—the Chinese fiddle. The nation has certainly obtained its knowledge of musical concord from the vicinity of Pandemonium, its idea of discord must come from somewhere considerably beyond that place.

Some of the sing-songs combined creature comforts with those more intellectual; but these were permanent institutions, and not simply for the occasion. ‘These establishments are open free of charge, but care is taken to have a select audience. The female performers considerably outnumber the male, and have the cramped small feet. After shrieking themselves hoarse, in a higher pitch of voice than I ever heard before, they approach the visitors to receive largess. Now, their manner of doing this I denounce as the most revolting specimen of selfdistortion and pedestrianism imaginable. I can think of no juster simile than a frog trying to walk upright with half its hind legs amputated and stilts fastened to the stumps. Why the deformed feet should ever have been termed “ small” I am at a loss to imagine, all that I have seen being quite the reverse. The bottom of the foot, it is true, is bandaged, and compressed into a _ hoof-like smallness, with the toes all forced into the sole, and on this the shoe is fitted ; but look at the ankle, instep, and heel, and you will see nothing but an immense shapeless mass, closely resembling the foot of an elephant.

Whenever the Celestial vocalists have hobbled up to you and taken a seat,—perhaps on your knees if they should happen to take a fancy to you,—the polite thing is to order supper for the company ad libitum, and by this means the proprietors and musical talent of the establish-

CAFES CHANTANT. 11 ment recompense themselves; for although there is no entrance-charge, by George! they do make you pay for supper.

It is a pity some of the members of teetotalism do not undertake a proselytizing expedition to China, for in these intellectual entertainments of the people they would find a fair field for their labour. The etiquette of the sing-song is that a man must never refuse the wine-cup from the hand of one of the attendant sirens, and I am quite sure the sirens use the strongest persuasion and their most fascinating arts to ply it. It sometimes unfortunately happens that a victimized Chinaman becomes unduly elated, and attempts to steal a kiss; and when this happens, as the ladies are thickly befloured and daubed with paint, the poor fellow quickly assumes a floury appearance, while the lady’s countenance becomes variegated with irregular lines of commingled colour.

The Chinese have another polite mode of making beasts of themselves, consisting of a sort of forfeit game, in which one holds up his fingers and the other, before seeing them, quickly guesses the number held up, the loser’s penalty being to swallow a cupful of wine or samshoo, and then, to show his superior breeding and capacity, to hold it aloft, bottom up, after each draught.

The professional ladies are always open to an engagement, and are usually invited to attend evening parties, to enliven the guests by their melody and flirtation. Upon these occasions each siren carries a fan, upon which is inscribed her list of songs, and this is handed round the company to select from. The wives and daughters of the host are never present at these soirées musicales, for they, poor creatures, being only upon a par with the goods and chattels, are considered unworthy to mix with their lords in public. In all affairs but the most private domestic ones they are entirely ignored, and it would be the greatest breach of good manners for one Chinaman to ask another after his wife’s health, and

12 THE EXHIBITION.

would be vulgar to talk of female relatives at all. Of course, where woman occupies such an inferior position, her rights are frequently usurped; and it is no uncommon thing for one of the singing ladies to monopolize a man with several wives.

While at Hong-Kong I had the satisfaction of visiting a grand New Year exhibition that only takes place once every ten years. It consisted of an immense building of bamboo and matting, after the general style of Chinese theatres. The people excel in this style of building, and will finish one of these temporary structures in a few days, and without using a single nail in the work. The walls and roof are simply bamboo, lashed together with rope, then thatched with rushes, and covered with matting ; the whole completely watertight, and strong enough to resist the wind and weather. That which I visited was designated the Temple of some long-named Chinese divinity, and was of vast extent, covering several acres of land. The interior contained a little of every production of China, a fair sprinkling of European articles, and an endless variety of shows and amusements. Some parts were devoted to stalls of raw produce, while others contained every kind of manufactured article. One of the most attractive scenes for the Chinamen was a show of models of a great variety of wild animals, comprising almost everything, from a mouse to a camelopard. Although this dummy menagerie gave the greatest satisfaction and elicited numberless ‘‘ Hi-ya’s!” from the astonished Celestials, I am pretty certain that many of the supposed representations could never have found an original, and I am quite sure that had a tiger seen the tremendous monster intended for himself, it would have certainly frightened him. Theatres, sing-songs, lecturers, quackdoctors, mountebanks, tumblers, jugglers, fortune-tellers, all were to be enjoyed for the sum of two dollars paid at the door.