Through the heart of Brazil; a diary of incident and adventure, during a Gospel expedition of about 5,000 miles by river, rail, and road, in and around Brazil, with some information about the interior Indian tribes.

Appendix

PAG E i

1 1 iS

1 22

The Indians of Central Brazil

PREPACE.

“ My heart overfloweth with a goodly matter, My pen is the pen of a ready writer.”

The words of the Psalmist aptly describe the work of the author of this book, whose pen flows in the service of his King", and with such inspiration that the reader is enabled to accompany him and his brother, George, in their travels through Brazil, and share with them the thrill of their experiences and adventures bv the way.

The story gives rise to some such emotions as when reading the Acts of the Apostles, for here are seen sure evidences of the old transforming Power, ever new to-day, and again manifested in this fresh chapter devoted to South America.

There is in his narrative that which links the bye-gone days of miracles with the present generation.

Oh ! that the “ Acts ” of the Holy Spirit in all nations might be so written, as to fire the zeal of the Christian Church, to fulfil at this late hour the great, but neglected, command, and respond to appeals such as this book conveys, by giving themselves and their all lor the perishing hosts beyond, receiving the promised hundred-fold in this present time, and, in the end, that joy which alone will be theirs who win souls for Christ. Dan. xii . , 3.

“ Oaklands,”

Rydes Hill,

Near Guildford.

ARTHUR T. DENCE.

BORORO INDIANS, STATE OF MATTO GROSSO, BRAZIL.

Introduction

■JJROM their night of 400 years in the darkness of ignorance, " superstition and sin, the nations of the South American continent aie now awakening, and new ambitions, hopes and aspirations are thrilling the minds and imaginations of all classes of society.

“ The Faith,” which their fathers believed, and willingly, or unwillingly, practised as essential to salvation, is little by little losing its hold upon the people, who, with the growth of educa-. tion, and the propagation of republican ideas of liberty and equality, are now more willing and able to think for themselves, and take nothing for granted.

Against this re-action Rome is strenuously battling, and, as far as she is able, seeks to stem the tide of unbelief and heresy (for which her own shortcomings are mainly responsible), by accom-

R.C. PRIEST AND CHAPEL, GOYAZ, BRAZIL.

modating herself to the spirit of the age. Thus it happens that many, who in the past would have been excommunicated and persecuted for reading the Scriptures without the Bishop’s written consent, or for refusing to frequent the confessional, and withdrawing their wives and daughters from its corrupting influence, or for doubting the Roman doctrines of Infallibility, Purgatory, Celibacy, etc., are now tolerated as good Catholics.

To such an extent has this gone, that the old orthodox Roman Catholics may be regarded as forming really one of the smallest religious bodies in South America, and the country is passing into the hands of heretics and infidels. At the same time, by means of this apparently broad-minded policy, together with an increasing appeal to the senses, by greater pomp and magnificence in the services and processions, better music, finer church buildings and other attractions, Romanism still appears to retain her hold upon the masses, particularly among the uneducated classes, and is still to be found publicly burning the Bible, of which she is, as ever, the most implacable enemy.

The “ Neglected Continent ” has comparatively few friends, and this mainly owing to the lamentable ignorance that prevails at home concerning the actual conditions existing in this vast territory, which occupies more than one-eighth of the earth’s surface.

Books on South America, particularly those having reference to Brazil, are not often read, and are indeed as rare as they are incomplete, so that very little information is available to the student, explorer or missionary — at least as far as the inland territories are concerned.

The vast undeveloped vegetable and mineral resources of Brazil; its many interesting aboriginal races, forming about a third of the entire population; its great unexplored territories, and the glorious wonders of its mighty rivers and impenetrable forests, would, if they were better known, excite the interest and curiosity of many of our countrymen, who are on the alert for u.

new fields of travel and enterprise; and yet the greater part of Brazil is to-day a perfect blank, so far as reliable geographical or geological research is concerned, and much is left to the overvivid imagination of the map compiler.

There are districts as large as the German Empire that are quite unexplored, and are only inhabited by numerous tribes of savage Indians, living in a perfectly primitive condition, some of whom, probably, are not yet aware that Brazil has been “ discovered ” for more than four centuries.

Fourteen years’ residence in South America has given me a great admiration and love for this wonderful land with its great aspirations, and has convinced me that after many years of political anarchy and priestly opposition, its countries are now coming to the front by leaps and bounds, and form already a factor to be reckoned with in the world’s economics. But at the same time it should be evident to all who have the true interests of the Continent at heart, that any material and social progress, which dispenses with the Bible, and ignores the regenerating power of the Holy Spirit, is fictitious and deceitful — nay, delusive to the utmost extreme, as may be verified nearer home than South America. And thus it is just at this epoch that God has called into existence and inspired several agencies, to commence a true reform, without which it were better that this Continent were yet wrapped in its primitive dreams of 400 years ago.

Though these pages deal, mainly, with only one half of the Continent — the Republic of Brazil — yet, the general conditions here described, will be found to exist in greater or less degree throughout the other republics.

The first object of this book is to arouse a more practical interest in the crying needs of this dark land, so long forgotten, so long neglected; and the second, to supply to a limited extent, some useful information for those, who, in the coming days, shall be led to take up some work for God in this field.

The main portion of my story consists of transcriptions from a diary, kept during- one of my journeys through South America, amplified here and there, where necessary, to make the narrative both intelligible and useful. In addition to this a chapter is added as an interesting sequel, and as furnishing undeniable proof of the value of those disinterested and noble efforts of the Bible Societies, which have so often brought light and true civilization to little known places on the earth’s surface, far in advance of the missionary, the explorer, and, happily, of the trader too.

In conclusion, it is well to add that the author is well aware of many defects in style and composition, and makes no pretensions in that direction, but rather seeks to present a plain unvarnished story, in a simple and straightforward manner, looking to God to bless the reading of it, and use it for His Glory alone.

FREDERICK C. GLASS,

(South American Evangelical Mission, Mount Pleasant, Liverpool.)

iv.

CHAPTER I. Brazil and tbe Brazilians

AZIL was accidentally discovered by a Portuguese navigator, who was driven out of his course to the Brazilian coast, on the 3rd May, 1500, while on a voyage to India; the first colony being formed near the present port and city of Santos.

We are told that some thirty years later, these colonists and their half-caste descendants had already formed a numerous and energetic community, which sent out other settlers, who founded the cities of Itu, Santo Andre, and Sao Paulo, and gradually spread over the Continent. We hear of them later attacking the aborigines, the Spaniards and the Jesuit Missions with indiscriminate fury, opening up the mining districts in the State of Minas, plunging fearlessly into the Brazilian backwoods, and pushing steadily forward and extending the Portuguese domain right up the slopes of the Cordillera. The fact that South America is so equally divided between the Spanish and Portuguese speaking peoples is mainly due to the daring, enterprising spirit of these hardy pioneers. The country, which was gradually colonised, remained a dependency of Portugal until the year 1808, when it became also the refuge of the Royal family, who were driven from the Motherland by the invading French, and who remained in Brazil until after the Peninsular War.

The tie with Portugal was finally severed in 1822, and an independent empire created with a liberal constitution, under the

B

Portuguese Prince, Dom Pedro, who, after a few years of misrule, abdicated in favour of his son, Dom Pedro II. This sovereign, by his wise, enlightened rule and blameless life, introduced a new era of peace and prosperity, and Brazil began to take its place among the nations.

Though Dom Pedro was a very gifted and liberal-minded man, he was more of a scientist, philanthropist and scholar, than a statesman or politician. He was a great traveller, well-known in England, and a member of several British Scientific Associations; his chief hobby being astronomy. Of a lovable, fatherly disposition, he was venerated by the Brazilian people, but his character and aims not harmonizing with the ambitious spirit of a certain powerful political combination, of a military composition, the aged Emperor was suddenly and unexpectedly dethroned, and deported from his country in the year 1889, before the nation was fully aware of what was happening. He died in exile less than three years afterwards. His last great public act was the total abolition of slavery in the year 1888, a step which materially hastened his downfall.

A Republic was immediately proclaimed; a new Constitution established, similar to that of the United States, and the outcry of indignation was smothered by extravagant and visionary promises of future prosperity and general advantage, or by the strong arm of the military party.

Now, after nearly twenty years of Republican Government, the country is beginning to emerge from the political and commercial chaos and anarchy, for which this rapid change of Government was mainly responsible. Brazil is now entering a new career of great promise and enormous possibilities. Apart from the method of this revolution — which is a blot on the nation’s history — there can be no doubt that the responsibility thus thrown upon the people for the management of their own affairs is gradually compelling them to think for themselves. It is of first importance, therefore, that measures be at once taken to turn

BRAZIL AND THE BRAZILIANS.

this newly awakened intellectual activity into the right direction, as well as to make accessible to the people the materials for a right judgment in all that is highest and best.

Brazil has a population of about 20,000,000 inhabitants, of a rather mixed character. There is very little pure blood, owing to the intermingling of the Indian, African, and white races. The official language, used by all but the Indian tribes, is Portuguese. The Republic has an area of about 3,350,000 square miles (including the Acre territory) and is, therefore, larger than the whole of Europe or the United States, and, after Greater Britain and the Russian Empire, is the third largest country in the world. It possesses a coast line of 3,600 miles. Its greatest breadth from East to West is 2,500 miles; while it is divided up into twenty-one Provinces or States, varying very much in size, population and prosperity, those in the South being more favoured in the latter respect.

On the whole it cannot be considered a mountainous country, for, with the exception of a few districts, principally in the States of Minas, Rio and Goyaz, the country generally rather resembles the South of England in its undulating character, but rises in the far interior to enormous tablelands or plateaux, while the basins of the Amazon and Paraguay mainly consist of great tracts of low-lying grassy plains, often of a marshy character, with intervals of dense, impenetrable forest.

No language can adequately describe the glory of the Brazilian forest, with its endless variety of trees, many of which are very rare and valuable. The vivid contrasts in colour and form; the beauty of its many varied palms and tree ferns; the thickets formed by giant creepers, which hang from branch to branch; the brilliant blossoms on tree and bush; the wonderful orchids and gorgeous butterflies of every hue; the flocks of chattering parrots and the soft agreeable rustle of the humming-bird, darting here and there among the trees and flowers, form some of the features of this lovely scene.

The climate varies very much according to the latitude and character of the country, but generally it may be considered as good, especially in the interior and highlands.

The most important cities are: —

Rio de Janeiro (Capital of the Republic), with a population of about 700,000. A splendid and busy seaport, which has been greatly improved within the last few years. It contains one of the finest avenues in the world, cutting through the centre of the city from sea to sea, and is beautifully situated in a mountainlocked natural harbour, considered to be finer than that of Sydney. The climate, however, is rather sultry, owing to the surrounding mountains.

Sao Paulo is the second city in importance, though not in population. It is a very progressive, modern city, with an excellent mild climate. It has a population of about 300,000, and though very near the coast it is over 2,000 feet above sea-level.

Bahia is an ancient, conservative city of about 400,000; while Pernambuco, the fanatical northern Capital, has a population of 180,000. Among the principal smaller cities are Para, Porto Alegre, Maceio and Campinas, with others too numerous to mention. Great sanitary improvements have been made of late years in all the big cities where now every modern convenience may be found. Electric tramcars and lighting are quite common. The streets are well laid out and paved, and lined with eucalyptus or mangoe trees, with beautiful gardens and parks here and there. There are many solidlv-built public buildings, large and up-to-date hotels, and palatial private residences. The general condition of the people in these cities differs very little from what is found in most of the Continental cities of Southern Europe.

On any great national holiday or celebration, the streets are thronged with men and women, who are dressed in the latest Paris and London fashions, with a leaning towrards inordinate display.

BRAZIL AND THE BRAZILIANS.

The civilized and cultivated districts of Brazil are chiefly maritime, while at no great distance from the coast, at many points, the country is largely in a state of nature, and completely so, through an immense extent of the remote interior, where the aboriginal Indians dwell, monarchs of all they survey.

The principal industries of the country are the cultivation of coffee, cocoa, sugar, bananas, and mate; also the extraction of rubber, the cattle-breeding of the Southern States, and the cotton fields and factories.

Its mineral resources include gold, diamonds, silver and manganese, of which there are several important English mines, and there are vast quantities of unworked iron ore of the finest quality.

The religion of the country is nominally Roman Catholic, though, probably, the majority of those so classified are actually freethinkers, positivists or spiritualists. The Church of Rome was disestablished in 1891. Religious equality is now guaranteed and protected by the State, and freedom of press, platform and open-air propaganda are common rights, freely exercised.

Education is carried on by the State, and clerical influence of any kind is no longer permitted in the schools or colleges. There are 160,000 Protestants in Brazil, but the large majority of these are German Colonists in the extreme South of the Republic.

On every hand there are clear evidences that the Church of Rome is losing its hold and influence upon the masses, who in these days of education and progress, are of a more enquiring turn of mind. They often revolt indignantly from the superstition, idolatry and priestcraft that their fathers were compelled to endure. On the part of all that is noblest and best of the Brazilian nation, there is a turning away from the husks of formalism and clericalism, and a craving after a higher and better hope, with a desire for more sincerity and reality than was found under the iron bondage of the Jesuit rule of 400 years, with its too frequent lapses into gross immorality and degradation.

in character, the true Brazilians are frank, generous and most hospitable, and though they possess the keen, nervous, excitable disposition of the Latin race, this defect, under certain conditions, makes them capable of great and brilliant ideas, enterprises and developments, contrasting hopefully with the general lack of ambition or initiative, so common in tropical countries.

On the other hand their fondness for exciting amusements in the way of music-halls of a low type, theatres, horse-racing, lotteries and other terrible forms of gambling, tends to undermine the character, and there is a great deal of open dishonesty and immorality from highest to lowest. Gambling is the great national vice, and it is practically fostered by the State. Leprosy is terribly prevalent everywhere.

Slight of stature, and rather yellow of complexion, the men generally possess excellent features, and are often very refined, highly-educated and talented gentlemen: an honour to any nation. The women, of whom one sees little, are very reserved and secluded, being bound by tradition and etiquette. They are rather given to exaggeration in dress, with a partiality for scent and rice powder, and are seen to more advantage in the country districts. Socially the condition of the majority of women is little better than it was 100 years ago. They do not receive much consideration or respect, and are much to be pitied.

They generally marry very young — twelve and thirteen being not an unusual age — and before they are twenty-five, many are old and infirm women, quite incapable of properly bringing up a family, and infant mortality is consequently very high.

The food generally consists of meat prepared in different styles, and very highly seasoned, a few vegetables, chiefly sweet potatoes, mandioca root, and a kind of pumpkin, besides the inevitable farinha, black beans and rice. The last two named are always cooked with pork fat, and form the staple article of diet, especially in the interior, where the people eat little else all the year round. Puddings and pies, of course, are things about

BRAZIL AND THE BRAZILIANS.

which Brazilians are in absolute ignorance, and, except in a few high-class hotels, are never seen.

The cost of living in the coast cities is more than at home, chiefly owing to the higher rents exacted, but in the interior, though conveniences are fewer — if not altogether non-existent, and the conditions much more primitive — the expense is much

BRAZILIAN SHEEP CART (USED IN THE INTERIOR).

less. In the latter case one must often be contented with a thatched hut and mud floors, and a simple diet of beans and rice, perhaps without bread or meat.

Clothing in these parts is not highly conventional. Collars and cuffs are rarely seen; a broad straw hat and a cheap cotton print attire are all you require to be respectable.

If you desire to travel on horseback, five or six shilling's a day will comfortably cover all the reasonable expenses of yourself, trooper (salary included), and the keep of three animals — one being- for your tent, food, blankets and personal belongings.

In the far interior — especially in the South — the people are respectful, law-abiding, very simple-minded and hospitable; though, of course, here and there one meets with exceptions as in any other land.

When travelling in these remote districts, it is not usually difficult to obtain the free use of the Town Hall — such as it is — for Gospel meetings. Nor is there much trouble in getting the people together for these meetings, no special attraction being necessary, unless it is to be able to sing a few hymns fairly well, the Brazilians being passionately fond of music.

Failing to arrange a hall or covered place for your gathering, open-air preaching can be carried on to great advantage and blessing, and one can generally count on a quiet, attentive crowd of men and women, who are easily attracted by the singing of a Gospel hymin. With regard to the expenses of a long journey, if an additional animal can be afforded, a good supply of Sciiptures can be carried, which will often be gladly received in exchange for some part of the traveller’s necessary supplies; and with the aid of a small camera outfit he can do something by photography to meet the remaining expenses of the journey.

In these few lines, I have endeavoured to convey a general idea of Brazil and the Brazilians, and it now remains to state what is actually being done to evangelize this great and interesting nation.

Of all the different denominational missionary societies of Great Britain, not one sends a single missionary to the Brazilians. There are only two small interdenominational Societies, who, between them, are carrying on the warfare, and doing good work in the country. The first and pioneer Gospel Mission to Brazil was founded by a Scotch doctor of medicine, the late Dr. Kalley,

S

BRAZIL AND THE BRAZILIANS.

of Edinburg-h, and is well known as the “ Help for Brazil Mission.” They commenced work in Brazil nearly 50 years ago, and now have several stations and many out-stations in the States of Pernambuco and Rio 'de Janeiro. They have a fine large church building in the Capital of the Republic.

The Society, with which the writer of these lines is connected, is known as the ” South American Evangelical Mission,” of Mount Pleasant, Liverpool, with some thirteen mission stations in Brazil and the Argentine, their field-quarters being in Sao Paulo. They have at present twelve missionaries, including women, and six native workers. It is a “ faith mission ” on sound lines, and their special aim is to be able, eventually, to reach the far-away Indian tribes.

These, in addition to a Sailors’ Mission in Santos, the noble and efficient work of the British and Foreign Bible Society, and the independent efforts of a few individual workers, are practically all that Great Britain is doing for this great and needy country of Brazil. The English chaplains, sent out to the English communities, carry on no work among the natives themselves. In this matter the United States have set us a good example, the American Methodist, Baptist, Presbyterian and other Churches having established many mission stations in different parts of Brazil, especially in the South. Our own neglect of the claims of Brazil is the more strange, when considered along with the unparalleled opportunities and openings the country now affords for active Gospel work of every kind, when one remembers the fact that Great Britain has more money invested, a far larger commerce, and more territorial possessions in South America than any other foreign country.

I have also always found that the Brazilian people have an extraordinary respect for, and confidence in, our countrymen, and an Englishman can count on receiving more consideration and attention than would be given to a person of any other nationality, or even to a Brazilian citizen himself.

It is evident that the Spirit ol God is working there in a peculiar and remarkable way, and that now is God’s day of grace for these millions. Surely, where the Spirit of God thus manifests His presence, we should be up and ready to co-operate in such a glorious and eternal enterprise, and to the cry of the Lord of the Harvest we should reply: “ Here am I, send me.”

io

CHAPTER II. Preparation tor a long 3ournep

j X the early spring of 1902, while in charge of a small mission station in the coast city of Santos, I received a communication from the agent of the British and Foreign Bible Society, the Rev. Frank Uttley, asking me if I would undertake a journey, mainly on behalf of that Society, across the far interior States of Goyaz and Matto Grosso.

The invitation was accepted and preparations were pushed forward for this long and hazardous undertaking, which we estimated would occupy over six months, and would cover five or six thousand miles in all. Time was short, as the journey must necessarily be made between the months of April and September, to avoid the heavy rains, which, at a certain period of the year, make travel on horseback almost impossible.

There was plenty to do, such as, for example, a tent to be made, and many purchases of food, cooking utensils, saddlery, special clothing, etc., besides a hundred and one little things essential for such a life.

Then we searched around for maps of the country we expected to travel through, but searched in vain. In Brazil maps are a very scarce and unmarketable commodity, and the Governments in the past have been so shortsighted that they have rather hindered than aided any enterprise in this direction.

I visited the old Geographical Institute in Rio, shadow of the days of the old emperor, Dom Pedro, and now in a very neglected condition. After wading through piles of musty and dusty old volumes and documents, I found nothing of any service, and

1 1 almost despaired ol doing so, until I saw and purchased in Sao Paulo, a small German publication of a fairly reliable character.

\\ ith the help ol this we were enabled to steer our way right across Brazil, reaching the Bolivian frontier, three thousand miles by rail, horseback and river, from Rio de Janeiro.

My arrangements and plans completed, I left Rio, and, after a railway journey of lour days, through the States of Rio, Sao Paulo, and Minas Geraes, I reached the inland city of Araguary in the latter State, it being the farthest interior point served by any railway in Brazil.

ARAGUARY.

Here I found awaiting me, my two travelling companions, who were my brother George — lately arrived from New Zealand, and who was accompanying me at his own expense — and a young Brazilian worker named Frances Diniz.

They had arrived about a week before, and had been busily engaged, in the meantime, canvassing the town with books, examining animals, and trying to see through the sweet, guileless ways and words of the many “ Senhores ” with horses for sale !

PREPARATION FOR A LONG JOURNEY.

I had undertaken five such journeys before, but my two companions had no experience of horseback travel, and seemed slightly apprehensive of the prospect. However, they very soon accustomed themselves to the life, and we hardly had a day’s sickness throughout the journey, and we carried no medicine chest.

It took nearly a week to get things together, purchase a reliable troop of animals, and, more important still, to find a good, steady “ camarada ” (trooper), who knew his business, which I think we did in the person of Joao Baptista, at ^3 10s. a month, which is considered very good pay.

By the 9th April we were ready, and opened our active campaign by holding an open-air meeting that evening in the chief square of Araguary. Quite a few gathered together at a short distance, in a half suspicious manner, and heads were popped out of the surrounding windows in astonished surprise at our singing there in the open air: a thing quite unheard of in all the annals of the town.

When a sufficient crowd had been attracted, we stopped our hymns, and I did my best to make myself heard at a long range, and the attention was all that could be desired.

Early on the 10th our trooper had rounded up the animals, and had them all properly harnessed, with our heavy loads fairly distributed and balanced between the three pack mules, making, with our saddle horses, a troop of seven animals, which number was afterwards increased to eight.

The total cost of this troop, harness and everything, was less than ^100, and, at the end of the journey, we were able to dispose of it for a little more than the original price, though as a general rule you cannot depend on getting much more than onehalf, according to the condition of your animals.

Finally, we bid farewell to our hospitable host, Snr. Luiz Gonzaga, the local chief of the police, and a Presbyterian, and heading our horses in a northerly direction, Araguary was soon

*3

THE START.

lost to view in a cloud of dust, and our long- journey had begun.

What lay before us? Would the pessimistic views of some of our friends be realised? How would it all end, and when? All was shrouded in mystery, and yet we all felt deeply impressed that we were safer in God’s hands in the heart of South America, than to walk without Him in the streets at home. At this time I wrote to the Society’s Agent: “ Everything is ready for our start, and all seems in good order. Oh, that God will bless us, give us humble, obedient hearts, and a living and active faith in His power and willingness to bless and keep us. Oh, that we may taste of His fulness, and see His glory in the salvation of lost sinners. Good-bye! Pray for us!”

Chapter III. J

On tbe Road.

'T7RIDAY, April 18th. Oft the in g-ood order before START' g o’clock. All in fine spirits in spite of our misfortune in having to shoot one of our best horses this morning:. He broke his hack through an awkward fall, while tied up for shoeing.