Thompson in Africa : or, An account of the missionary labors, sufferings, travels, and observations, of George Thompson in Western Africa, at the Mend

Front matter

PRINCETON • NEW JERSEY

Herbert S. Schroeder

TV7 if

Preface

The following pages are, for the most part, compilations from my Journal. I have endeavored to give a faithful and correct view of the state and circumstances of the Mission and people among whom I have labored. As respects all the course I have pursued, I make no pretension that it was all just right, according to my present light and experience ; but I can say, that I have endeavored to do, in all cases, the very best I knew, and what I thought would be most for the glory of GOD, and the best good of those around me. I was alone, and had no one to consult; and I was inexperienced, and young. In some instances I have erred, and with the knowledge I have gained from experience, would not, in many cases, do again as I did. I shall rejoice if others may be benefited and learn wisdom from my imprudence and errors, as I hope I have myself.

It is though'; that this book will give more of an inside vino of the particular, every day duties and trials of the missionary life, especially in Africa, than anything that has yet been published.

Much of the African style of using the English language has been used, because (1,) it came natural to me, having been accustomed to it so long ; (2.) it will give a much better idea to the reader of the reality of things, on Mission ground, than would good, grammatical English. (3,) a circumstance is always more interesting when given in the language of the parties — it makes it seem more like " real life." In reporting speeches of natives, I have given them in style and language as given me by my interpreter.

I think all, or most, of the peculiar terms which are strictly African, will be understood, either by accompanying explanations, or the connection.

It is believed that considerable, which is new and of value to the Christian church and the world, may be found in this book, respecting the country of Africa — its inhabitants, their manners and customs, &c.

Such were my circumstances, cares and sicknesses, as delineated in

PREFACE.

the following pages, I could not apply my mind to the Mendi language, though it is spoken extensively, and it is important the Bible should be translated into it speedily. Some are of opinion that a person may travel lifty days and not go through the Mendi country.

It is hoped that the following narrative may, in the hands of God, awaken a desire in many hearts to go to Africa, for the purpose of preaching, teaching, farming, building houses, mills, manufactories, &c. ; and thus assist in making long despised and neglected Africa, what

it is capable of becoming, the garden of the world.

Should such be the effect, God shall have all praise, and I shall have additional cause to rejoice in all that I have suffered for that interesting and hopeful people. GEO. THOMPSON.

Note to the Second Edition.

Thk first edition meeting with such a speedy sale, and general acceptance, other editions, stereotyped, corrected, and much improved, are sent forth to plead with the churches and friends of humanity, for " bleeding Africa while I again return to that benighted and neglected land to point its millions to " the Lamb of God."

Reader, may the Lord open your heart to pity, pray and labor for the perishing. G. T

Contents

PAGE

Chapter II

Stay and labors in Sierra Leone — incidents — Sierra Leone and Freetown, markets, &c. — the slaver, slave ship [cut] — first Sabbath in Africa — Church, and Wesleyan missionaries — dinner at governor's — temperance meetings — large Sabbath-school — a collision — phonotopy — love feast — a mountain ramble, 15

Chapter III

Incidents and labors in Sierra Leone, continued. Wedding custom — Foorah bay — another slaver — " Excuse me" — our schooner boarded by the war — Goodrich — loading — driven back — trouble in getting out of harbor — journey to Regent — ship Glasgow, Capt. Hamlin — another slaver — appeal — another start — many difficulties — pleasing acquaintance — poetry, - - 31

Chapter IV

Voyage from York to the Mission — dangers and difficulties — the lost canoe — meeting and parting — aground — drawing near, the affecting sight — arrival at the Mission — reflections, - 46

Chapter V

Sickness and death of Bro. Carter — reflections— old accounts — " salvation and rejoicing" — journal — presents — Kissicummah — Sycummah, the nominal King — "palaver" — a blessed Sabbath — Karmakoo — a country law — fever coming, 54

Chapter VI

My sickness, treatment and recovery — journal — the thief-law — a trying palaver — journal — help in time of need — precious Sabbath— leopards killing people — journal — hydropathy — journal — " good news from a far country," - - 67

Chapter VII

First journey to Freetown — James Will and Henry Badger — drunken sailors — heaven, poetry — drank wine — the hymn — the colonial chapel — Christmas — plundered by the war — Sabbath reflections — arrival at the Mission — leopards — need of help— - the Mission rent, ------ 84

CONTENTS.

Chapter VIII

The Lord working, glorious Sabbath— distrpssing case — journey to Harnhoo, death of a heathen, and " crying for the dead" — Mahometans— first wedding — journal — classes — the electric fish — marriage — girl's prayer meeting — a loud call — important cases of conversion — new chapel — visit to Mongray — alligators — a barricade — effect of many chiefs in a country — grassfields — formation of a church — defeated in getting to Mendi — Mahomedans' four books — an observation — Gallinas — Barmah women— examining and receiving members to the church — a man afraid to be married — distressing case — talk with a Mahomedan chief — a Mahomedan law — fearful responsibility — confessions, additions to the church — second journey to Freetown, incidents — war people — Kent — Freetown — the missionaries' mail — subscription paper — another slaver — departure from town, &c, - - - - 96

Chapter IX

Journal — refused to marry a slaveholder — palaver with a chief — journal — Sodomy — journal — war, Harnhoo destroyed — the foot race, and weights — the ambassadress — first peace meeting — my ' friend 1 — preach sitting — second peace meeting — visit to Bendoo — the governor's peace — excommunication, &c. — return of peace messenger — third peace meeting— palaver about the gun, &c, ------- 123

Chapter X

Bees — Harry Tuckers men — journal — must take children — my people giving — the drivers, ants and bug-a-bugs — the small Sabbath breaker — the harlot, the woman stealer — my error — the big road — refusal to shake the king's hand — Landers in Africa — a charm opened — need of a doctor — country marriage, a trial — journal — disappointment — the stubborn boys — plastering the Mission house — many fold, - 142

CHAPTER XL

Kinna preaching — desire to learn to read — African bats — my goats — the American sailor — the children's crime and court — difficulty between man and wife — " Night of Toil" — interesting — writing Mendi — the roach in my ear — angleworms — Kings must do right— journal — Braw — a trip to Big Boom, the creek — palm tree climbing, palm cabbage, palm oil — difficult traveling—preaching— Big Boom — birds, towns— return— a wonderful work! — third journey to Freetown — father Young — tornadoes— labors in town— the sick child — Sabbath at Kissy — temperance cards — return, - - - - 161

CHAPTER XII. Big meeting at Mongray, fourth peace meeting, Karmokoo re

CONTENTS.

turned — laws — preached — a convert — fornication and excommunication— the forsaken dying man — journal— call from Mendi — arrival of missionaries — fourth journey to Freetown — Death of Mrs. Brooks. Mr. Brooks in fever— walk from York to Freetown— pleasing incident — return to York — suicide — Brooks' recovery — preaching — passage and arrival at the Mission, great joy — visit to Mongray, Mandingo school — Pa-paw — Mission visitor — journal — journey to Harnhoo, joy for peace, Karmokoo persecuting — simple nature's views of prayer-reading — setting up the press — visit from James Beale — gregrees — Bea Bungo— accusation and repentance — charms described — fear I have failed in tenderness, need of a wife — the little boys preaching — visit to Mongray — paid rent — getting ready, ... 179

Chapter XIII

ourney to Tissana — " we must enlarge " — Thomas Caulker — Mbwap — hippopotami— Mah-ke-tah, preaching. Sabbath — Bah-man-ne — Sabby, burned — Moh-ker-is — Ger-ra-hoo — Kis-sihaul — Kaw-Mendi, joy at our arrival — Lah-van-ah — Soom-bwe-a, a walled town — Moh-Bungo — I'issana — meeting of Braw — many came to see me — the river, rapids, &c. — Braw's sufferings and feelings — meeting of chiefs, customs — new mission— agreement — a Mahomedan — " Murray man " — milk — filial affection — my axe — African tools — examined — giving a wife — beautiful country — Gon-gommah — a rock as a god — blessed Sabbath — preaching scene — spinning and weaving — '• What hath God wrought ? » - - - 197

CHAPTER XIY.

Peace mission and labors — journey on foot, up the river — Beh-pee — alligators — parrots — Gerrahoo — He-ga-mah — a note on tobacco— currency — can't eat — the affrighted woman — the "devil" farce — Sa-bwe-mah — sleeping in the woods — promises — a memorable Sabbath — drivers — discouragement — alarm — making twine — messenger from Tecongo — message to Mo-mo — the flute — unwell — recovery, reflections — glorious Sabbath, skeleton— thrilling scenes — unwell — afraid of me — "faint yet pursuing"— preaching — Braw — a small trial — first Mendi peace meeting — Kaw-too-boo, "shaking hands," my speech, &c. — second Mendi peace meeting — Bunyan leaves me, - 215

Chapter XV

Journey to Boompeh — Maw-ti — Fah-ne-coon-dah — Yan-dahoo — reception — jealousy — war report — Sabbath — poor interpreter— messengers from Boompeh — a pleasing speech — a pleasing scene — Boompeh, the capital — an African town — a " gazing stock" — elephants — third Mendi peace meeting (Boompeh) — much dancing and joy — fourth Mendi peace meeting (Boompeh) — war news, a mass meeting — iron ore — fifth Mendi peace meeting (Boompeh) — answer of peace, the white cloth — great meet-

CONTENTS.

ing for preaching, a king's speech — returning — preaching, alarm of war — arrival and reception at Sa-bwe-mah — Yah-man-nali — reflections — Braw blamed — Kah-sam-mah,Cin-de-wah. preaching, unwell — Kaw-too-boo — tobacco, and ministers — Braw arrived— Braw and polygamy — Kaw-too-boo's difficulty — Sabbath kept — a thunder storm — Woo-te-bee — preaching, gods — new booth, - - - - 240

Chapter XVI

Sixth Mendi peace meeting, (cut) — the difficulty — a magnanimous speech — address to Je-baw — ignorance of numbers — specimen of Mendi numbers — seventh Mendi peace meeting— Chah- bah — a word to think of — Braw's friends — "Proo-moie" weaving — eighth Mendi peace meeting — my speech to Tecongoes — interesting incidents — fear of treachery — searching for the cause — preaching, the ten commandments — need of a change — a wife flogged — monkeys, &c. — Carters coat — watch broke — peace in interior — visit to Karmookoo — an affecting case — stopped from going to Tecongo — " in the name of God " — the " living man " — adultery and punishment — arrival from the Mission — turning "black man" — encouraging my interpreter vexed — reasons for patience — a nest of graven images — the stone god — the quarrel of a chief — ninth Mendi peace meeting — Grang-ga-loo's report — exceptionable points — my reply — "compel them" — tenth Mendi peace meeting — Braw's speech — Chabbah afraid of me — my prayer — pi ace made — voice of Providence — joy and rejoicing— my work finished — driving the stake — returning — *k' O Yoh ! " 267

Chapter XVII

Return to Tissana — difficulty in traveling — Gerrahoo — beautiful country — Fabanna — Yang-be- woo-roo's speech — specimens of dress — Sammah — Tissana — Bea Bungo — preaching — prayer with two kings— their prayers — rum traders and missionaries — u you will hear of this" — Bea Bungo, zealous — the mission and rum — the crow — return — call at various places — the boa constrictor — the Mission — review and appeal, - - 299

Chapter XVIII

Last month at the Mission — custom of u sandy" — teacher discharged— chameleon — journal, much unwell — good news from Tissana — journal — conclusion to leave for America — letter from John S. Brooks — journal — departure — palm pine and mangrove bush — adieu — journey to, and stay in Freetown — the pawpaw tree — a vessel found — the crowned crane — a vessel from New York — temperature — steamboat needed — unwell — latest accounts— home! — conclusion — appendix, rise of the Mission, &c, 315

Appendix

Sketch of the Rise of Mendi Mission — the Christian's Business, 333

THOMPSON IN AFRICA.

Introduction

PREPARATION FOR SAILING AND VOYAGE.

It was while suffering and toiling in the slaveholder's prison, in Missouri, on account of my pity toward the suffering slave — and while confined in the gloomy cell of the oppressor, that my mind was directed to Africa as a field of missionary labor. It was there that I resolved to live and die in the cause of the oppressed, the despised, the outcast.

Being deprived of the privilege of pursuing various studies, by my imprisonment of five years, I was desirous to prosecute them still further, preparatory to the missionary work ; but when the death of Thomas Garnick, my schoolmate, and the associate of William Raymond, at the Mendi Mission, was announced, I was immediately selected to go and fill his place. All urged this point as if directed by an influence from above.

At the same time, the Secretary of the American Missionary Association wrote, inviting me to go and join William Raymond. After some hesitation, myself and wife agreed to go, expecting to sail in the fall of 1848. While making arrangements for our departure, the news was received of brother Raymond's death / I was immediately telegraphed, to know if I would go to Africa at once, without my family. Not stopping to " confer with flesh and blood," my dear wife was ready for the sacrifice, acknowledged the hand of God, and I answered — " I will go." I left my business in other hands, brought my wife and child to my father's house, and prepared for leaving. At the farewell meeting, my father arose and said — "/ say to you, my son, Go," and, overcome by his feelings, he could say no more.

My wife and others accompanied me to where I took 1*

THOMPSON IN AFRICA.

stage, wishing to be with me as long as they could. To part with my family was trying, and brought tears to my eyes ; but the sacrifice was made cheerfully and heartily, as the following record in my journal will show.

" Reynoldsburg, March 28, 1848.

' Lord, what wilt Thou have me to do ?' ' I will instruct thee, and teach thee in the way which thou shalt go, I will guide thee with mine eye.'

' Go YE INTO ALL THE WORLD, AND PREACH THE GOSPEL TO

every creature, and lo ! I am with you alway, even unto the end,'

' Commit thy way unto the Lord, trust also in Him, and He shall bring it to pass.' '/ will be with thee.' iL will never leave thee, nor forsake thee' lMy grace is sufficient for thee.' iAs thy days so shall thy strength be.' *I am thy shield, and exceeding great reward.'' 'They that seek the Lord shall not want any good thing.' 'L will surely do thee good.'

" Lord ! it is enough, my soul is satisfied. On these promises will I rest. With such assurances I cheerfully leave my father, mother, brothers, sisters, wife and child, house, land, home and country, to go where Thou shalt lead. Except Thy presence go with me, carry me not up hence. Thy presence going with me, send me any where — ' Here am I, send me !' Only Thy will I wish to know. Lead me and guide me to that portion of the field where Thou seest I can do most for Thee.

' Only Thou my Leader be, And 1 still will follow Thee.'

4 'Any where, any thing, any how, dear Savior, only glorify Thy blessed and lovely name."

I took stage, March 28th, and arrived at New York on the 3d of April. On the way I spent the Sabbath in Baltimore . — attended a very good temperance meeting in the Bethel ship — and in the evening met with the colored people — had a thrilling, memorable meeting — received hearty sympathy, and many blessings, from these despised people.

INTRODUCTION.

I did not see the brethren of the Committee till the next day. They were glad to see me, said a vessel would sail in two or three days, and they wished me to be ready. I said " 1 cannot go alone." Soon an old friend, my former teacher in Illinois, Anson J. Carter, came into the office to see me. I asked him — " Will you go to Africa with me ?" He answered " Yes," — offered himself to the Committee, and after consultation, was accepted. I visited his wife and daughter, who gave their willing consent for him to go, and the same day, he began to settle up his business, and to make preparations to accompany me.

From conversation, it appeared that the Lord had been leading his mind to this state of willingness to go to Africa. He had been desirous for many years to go as a missionary, but had been prevented, having his mind, however, turned principally to China.

The 5th, 6th and 7th, we were occupied in preparing an outfit. On Wednesday evening, we met the Committee at the office, and after consultation, they formally voted " George Thompson and Anson J. Carter their missionaries to Kaw Mendi, West Africa, as successors of Wm. RAY- MOND."

On the next evening the Committee and others in council, examined and ordained me to the work of the gospel ministry. Bro. Carter being a close communion Baptist, it was feared we could not work together in union ; but we told them they need fear nothing on that point — we should have no difficulty, and they dismissed their fears, willing that we should try the experiment.

On the 8th April, 1848, we were accompanied to the ship by a number of the Committee and other friends. As we were taken in tow by a steamer, they went out with us. Thus we spent two or three hours in pleasant interview — > had a season of prayer together, and brother Lewis Tappan made remarks. He spoke of accompanying the Amistad captives, in the same way, about seven years before, and referred to the great and arduous labors of brother Raymond, &c. The time came for us to separate, and we were compelled to bid farewell to those whom a short acquaint-

THOMPSON IN AFRICA.

ance had rendered dear to our souis — and to our native land.

We had not sailed two hours before we were both taken " sea- sick" Those who have experienced the affection need no explanation of it — and those who never felt it, could not understand one : I will therefore not attempt a description of so exceedingly unpleasant, troublesome, laughable, harmless a disease. Suffice it to say, 1 had more or less of it for nearly a week. Brother Carter was more severely affected, and suffered occasionally from it all the passage, and was obliged to keep on deck as much as possible, to save himself from it. On this account he could not give much time to study.

We sailed on Saturday. On the Sabbath I preached from a portion of the 107th Psalm. Of this Psalm my journal says, " I never before saw so much expressiveness in it — but I expect I shall see more"

Our Captain, Joseph Brown, was very kind and obliging, ready to do anything in his power for our comfort. He treated us with great respect, called upon us to ask a blessing at the table, granted the privilege of worship on the Sabbath, and attended preaching himself. He is the same Captain with whom Brother Raymond and wife sailed to Africa. Of Brother Raymond, the Captain and supercargo (Mr. Ware) both remarked — " He is the only real teetotaller we ever saw, on a vessel, or in Africa." I trust we showed them two more, at least.

Besides ourselves, there was a Spanish passenger on * board. Qm voyage was quick — only 30 days to Sierra Leone, ancr in general it was pleasant, though we had some rough weather. My time was occupied in reading, writing, and exercising.

On the 10th we saw a number of whales, which we supposed to be 70 or 80 feet long — a grand sight. Truly, they are among the " wonderful works of God." On the 11th a fine "school" of porpoises were sporting and playing around the ship. This was a very common occurrence. They go in vast numbers, and swim very swiftly.

14th and 15th. Sea rough, rolling her mountain waves most majestically. The grandeur and sublimity were be-

INTRODUCTION.

yond anything I ever saw. I enjoyed the scene. Though dashing, angry billows would break over us, and the vessel lie nearly on her side, while we had to hold tight, to keep from being pitched hither and thither, yet I could not fear, but gazed delighted upon the mighty power of God.

16th. Preached from Mark 8 : 30. Could only stand by holding on to the table, and leaning against the door.

19th. Sea rougher than before. I recorded — "At times, it seems as if the vessel would go over on her side, but she rights up again. 0 ! the grandeur !

' Bear me on thou restless ocean,

Let the winds my canvas swell : Heaves my heart with warm emotion,

While I go far hence to dwell.' n

21st. A stormy and squally day ; the sea rolling uncommonly high. At dinner, it was very difficult to keep anything on the table, — bread, duck, beef, pork, potatoes, gravy, wine, &c, went helter-skelter to the floor: and the waiter pitched and tumbled like a drunken man.

He commandeth, and raiseth up the stormy wind which lifteth up the waves thereof, so that they (the sailors) mount up to heaven, they go down again to the depths, they reel to and fro, they stagger like a drunken man, and are at their wit's end." Now we " see the works of the Lord, and His wonders in the deep." And when " He makelh the storm a calm, so that the waves thereof are still," we shall " be glad because we be quiet."

2 2nd. A flying fish came aboard. It was about 10 inches long. Its forward wings were seven inches in length, and the hinder ones, 2 J. These fish frequently made nightly visits on board, attracted by the light, remained till morning, and made us a fine dish at breakfast.

30th. Crossed the " Tropic of Cancer," into the torrid zone, but found it quite cool, even chilling.

May 2nd, 1848. Just after breakfast, was heard the cry of "Land, ho!" We passed within about 20 miles of the island " Sal," one of the Cape de Verds — 15 miles by 5 — noted for its salt ; inhabitants, Portuguese ; religion, Catholic ; mostly slaves ; mountainous — one peak 8,000 feet

THOMPSON IN AFRICA.

high. After dinner saw " Bonavista" another of the Cape de Verds — 18 miles by 15.

This morning a very large flying fish came aboard, 16 inches long. It is a beautiful sight, when thousands of them suddenly dart up from the water near the vessel, and fly from 10 to 20 and sometimes 40 rods. They not only fly on deck, but often quite over the ship.

4th. A large shark was seen, supposed to be 12 feet long. The shark is said to be the only fish in the sea that will attack a man, unprovoked.

7th. In the morning all thought they saw land — and indeed, the sight was similar to a distant grove, on a large prairie — but it proved to be only clouds, which soon vanished away. About 1, P. M., the mountains of Africa appeared in view. My heart beat with joy at the sight, and I felt encouraged and strengthened for my work. We could not have preaching, but prayed and sung together in the cabin. Brother Carter wept, as he plead for Africa.

8th. Anchored at the " De Los" Islands, on some business, about five miles from the main land. " Tamara " Island, 5 miles by 1. " Factory," 4 J by J. "Crawford," 1 by J. Long ranges of mountains, in the interior, which appear very rugged and grand.

Just before supper a porpoise was harpooned, and drawn on deck. It was about 6 feet long, with a blubber skin (similar to a whale) about § in. thick, and flesh very much like beef — it would probably have weighed nearly 200 lbs., and made us a good supper. A little past midnight, we dropped anchor, in the harbor of Sierra Leone — and in the morning, after breakfast, went ashore, rejoicing, with strange emotions of unutterable pleasure, in the privilege of standing and walking on the " land of Ham " — the despised; and injured, and oppressed, and robbed, and murdered of all lands. We praised the Lord, and rendered thanksgivings, for all his tender care over us, while we had been wafted to our long-desired field of labor, in good health, and cheerful spirits. "O! that men would praise the Lord for His goodness and for His wonderful works to the children of men."

STAY AND LABORS IN SIERRA LEONE.

Chapter II. Stay And Labors In Sierra Leone

We landed on the morning of May 9th, and having letters to James Will, a native merchant at Freetown, we ■went to his store, but to our great disappointment found him absent, on a voyage to England. Mrs. Will, however, received us very kindly. Learning that a vessel was to sail for England, we briefly wrote home by her. Having a letter of introduction to Thomas Peyton, Church missionary, we called at his house, but found him also absent. His wife received us kindly, and provided some refreshments. Next, we called on Thomas Raston, the superintendent of the Wesleyan Mission. Here we found a number of preachers assembled, who gave us a cordial reception and a hearty welcome. After planning and consulting, as to the measures we should adopt, we took dinner at 4 o'clock, which is their usual hour. It was agreed that we should stop with T. Purslow, the teacher and theological professor, in their institution on King Tom's Point, till we could find a conveyance to the Mission. With him we stayed most of the time for six weeks. Brother Purslow is unmarried, kind, sociable, and obliging.

At 5 o'clock, he had an appointment to preach, in Grassfield chapel, whither we attended him, and I preached my first sermon in Africa, from John 14 : 1-3. He told them what we came to Africa for, and they pressed forward to give us a hearty welcome, promising to pray for us. After various calls, we came to our new residence, a very spacious building, containing the missionary, students, and school rooms, with other apartments, many of which were unoccupied.

We tried to find some one to send to the Mission for the schooner ; but all were afraid to go, on account of the war in the country. After four or five days we engaged a man who had been formerly connected with the Mission. He was

THOMPSON IN AFRICA.

absent two weeks, and returned with a letter from Bunyan, the native teacher. Both oroin<x and coming-, as he informed us, he and his men were attacked by robbers, who took everything from them, even to their clothes — for which, and for their services, we remunerated them.

Next we went to see the Governor, and inquired of him whether the duties on our goods could not be remitted. He was very friendly and sociable — granted a permit to land our goods free, provided they were not disposed of in the Colony — (I will here add, that the Mission has, ever since, received its goods free of duty, by giving bond that they shall not be disposed of in Sierra Leone). He gave us an invitation to dine with him on an appointed day — spoke well of Missions — and wished us to try to disseminate teetotal principles in the Colony.