Thirty-six voyages to various parts of the world, made between the years 1799 and 1841

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Preface

TO THE FIRST EDITION.

It may disarm criticism of some of its asperity, when the author states that, in publishing for the entertainment of his friends the following extracts from his journal, he makes no pretensions to literary skill or merit. His life has been passed in ploughing the ocean, and not in cultivating the delightful and peaceful fields of learning.

In selecting for publication the Voyages (written at the periods to which they relate) contained in this volume, he has aimed at presenting a fair specimen of the toils and perils in which his many years have been passed. They may interest others, and perhaps serve to show to the young and inexperienced that, by keeping a stout heart and a persevering spirit, a degree of success may be counted on which will secure personal independence, and the ability to do something for the happiness of others.

In these quiet days of peace, when war, with its excitements, and violence, and sorrows, is unknown among us, some of its legitimate and necessary features are viewed with a degree of disfavor, quite unfelt at the time of its existence. This is especially true as regards privateers and Jetters-of-marque. All wars have for their immediate object the annoyance of the enemy. Between maritime states, the destruction of each other's commerce is the aim of the belligerents. In our last war with Great Britain (to which several chapters in this

6 PEEFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION".

volume relate), the most active agents in crippling the commerce of the enemy, were those of the private armed service. The efficiency and daring gallantry of our privateers were eminently conspicuous.

No greater injustice can be done than to denounce as mere mercenaries all the young men who, during our war with England, embarked in the private armed service. Hundreds of my brother mariners well know, that the most generous and patriotic impulses inspired hosts of brave spirits to embark in the work of combating and destroying the ships and commerce of our great rival, until we should obtain the freedom of the seas ; and none who are informed on the subject are ignorant that the object was accomplished.

Whatever difference of opinion existed as to the merits of the war with England, there can, at this day, be none as to its results. Nearly thirty-seven years have passed since the treaty of Ghent brought us peace, and the unexampled prosperity which has followed, and the pre-eminent position, both in power and in honor, to which our country has attained, are due in no small degree to the gallantry and national resource manifested by us during the three years' contest.

Compare and contrast our present condition with what it was before that war. After the peace of 1783, our ships and commerce were preyed upon by England and France with impunity, and we manifested in our then feeble condition the most patient forbearance, and even submission. At length we were driven to arms against our ancient ally, France, until we compelled a recognition of our rights by the treaty of Paris in 1800.

Previous to this period our vessels trading to British ports were seized by French cruisers, carried into their own ports and condemned; and as the war between France and Britain became more embittered, both determined that there should

PEEFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. 7

be no longer any neutral powers if they could prevent it. They imposed restriction upon restriction on the commerce of other countries, and did every thing they could do to compel all the nations of the earth to take part in their contest. Our vessels were assailed by French Decrees and British Orders in Council. The accustomed channels were closed. With cargoes destined for Hamburg, I was compelled to make several voyages to Tonningen in Danish Holstein ; and when this trade was no longer permitted by France, I was forced up among the snow and ice of Russia. Such were the injuries to which we were subjected by France.

England was still more aggressive. Her cruisers captured more than one thousand ships and vessels bound to France and other countries, which were overrun by French armies, before the United States could be driven to the declaration of the war of 1812. England and France had seemed to regard our commerce as their legitimate prey, and they felt satisfied that our love of thrift and our passion for gain were paramount to our sense of honor, patriotism, and national pride.

England assumed and boasted that a few broadsides from her " wooden walls " would drive our paltry striped bunting from the ocean. Our seamen were impressed by them — our vessels searched in the most arrogant and offensive manner, and their people ill-treated. One outrage of this kind succeeded another, until one of their men-of-war fired her cowardly cannon into a harmless little unarmed vessel (April 26th, 1806), off Sandy Hook, and one of our citizens was killed. This was followed by the crowning wrong and insult of the attack by the British two-decked ship-of-war Leopard upon the American frigate Chesapeake, at a period of profound peace, and at a moment when from peculiar causes the latter ship was in a defenceless position.

This act roused a spirit which nothing could quell. Con-

8 PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION".

gress declared war in 1812 against the mightiest of the nations. But " thrice were we armed, " for we " had our quarrel just." In less than three years, two entire fleets of British men-of-war were swept from the Lakes. More than two thousand sail of British ships and other vessels were captured. One of our frigates vanquished two frigates of the enemy, one after the other in fair combat, and afterwards encountered at once two of their sloops-of-war with a like result. Other and gallant actions and victories followed. The spell was broken. British invincibility and British supremacy were at an end. The stars and stripes were no longer a theme of ridicule — our commerce was no longer at the mercy, and conducted by the permission and sufferance of England.

Far be it from the writer of these pages to indulge in either a revengeful or a boasting spirit ; but it may be permitted to one who in early life encountered so much of annoyance and injury — so much that was galling to the spirit of every man who felt that the ocean was by right the free thoroughfare of all nations ■ — to rejoice that wherever our flag now floats it carries security, respect and honor to all beneath its folds; that the " right of search," claimed so long and exercised so arrogantly, is now abandoned ; that our nation and our people know no superiors ; and that we present at this moment the most remarkable spectacle the world has ever known of a free, prosperous, powerful, and educated people. Let it be our aim to bear our prosperity with moderation, with dignity, and with gratitude to the great Ruler of nations ; and to remember that we shall become base whenever we wield our power against the weak and humble, or in any cause that has not honor, truth, and justice for its foundation and its end.

G. C.

Brooklyn, New York, March, 1851.

PREFACE

TO THE SECOND EDITION.

The ready sale and general approbation my first book of Voyages has met with, from my friends and the public, induces me to publish a second edition.

In the first, I feared I should weary my readers if I narrated too minutely the records of my journal. I therefore abridged many important facts connected with the scenes through which I passed in the early period of our naval and commercial history. These omissions did not altogether satisfy several of my judicious friends, who were desirous that I should publish a second edition, and in it particularize many facts and incidents, which had only been slightly alluded to or entirely omitted ; and thus, in accordance with my own judgment and their wishes, I have decided to enter into more detail, and to add a few more voyages to the West Indies and other well-known ports, which I hope may not be altogether uninteresting to those who may honor me with a perusal.

All history is in a great measure made up of scraps and isolated facts, and whoever keeps a faithful record of his life and times, will always contribute more or less materials for the future history of his country, and may in this way be of service to

10 PEEFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

those who shall come upon the stage of life long after he shall have passed away. The present age is decidedly the age of progress and improvement. All the world is in rapid motion. We live in eventful times, and every thing moves on with railroad celerity. Business men can only find time to read newspapers and reviews while travelling in railroad cars and steamboats ; while literary and scientific men find it difficult to keep up with the times, and can scarcely read all the new books that daily issue from the steam-power press. Almost everybody is too much occupied with the present and future to look back upon the past ; still, I trust there are some few of the younger portion of the community engaged in commerce, who will be glad to read and profit by the experience of others.

I also hope there is still a remnant of men, advanced in life, who are willing to reflect on by-gone days, and, from association, love to call up scenes of early life.

•After the above remarks, I have but little more to add.

Men will read or forbear, as best suits their inclinations ; and in

taking leave of the subject, I have only to say that my task is

done ; and I now bid adieu to the sea, and to all its pleasures

and perils forever.

G. C.

Brooklyn, New Yokk, Feb. 1853.

PREFACE

TO THE THIRD EDITION

I herewith avail myself of the opportunity afforded me by publishing a third edition of my " Voyages to Various Parts of the "World," to correct a few typographical errors in my previous writings which I had myself discovered, or which had been pointed out to me from other sources. This edition comprises all my previous published voyages, and embraces the whole in one entire volume. I have revised and enlarged -my work, given additional notes and explanations, and also added a few more voyages, extracted from my manuscript journal, which was regularly kept for a period of fifty-eight years.

My first foreign voyage to Cadiz was made in 1799, and my last to Rio Janeiro in 1841, consequently they extend over a space of more than forty-two years. I have been travelling and voyaging about the world for almost sixty years, and of course have passed through many perilous and exciting scenes not given ■ to the public, but I have related enough to prove the hardships and trials of a seaman's life, and also to show that mine has been a checkered one. It would, therefore, be ungrateful in me not to acknowledge the protecting hand of a kind Providence, in sustaining and bringing me through so many trying and dangerous scenes, both by sea and land. While many of my cotemporaries have perished by disease in foreign lands or been swallowed up in the great deep, I have been pre-

12 PEEFAOE TO THE THIRD EDITION.

served to record the events of my life, and to enjoy the tranquillity so much needed when drawing near the close of one's earthly pilgrimage.

In this edition, I have endeavored to call the attention of the present generation to the vast progress and improvement in our naval and mercantile marine. Perhaps there is no branch of art or science which has advanced so rapidly as naval architecture, and the management of ships, both in the navy and in the merchant service. In the early part of my sea-life, our merchant ships were small and badly constructed, and were they in existence at the present day would be considered as unseaworthy, while in the navy they were not much better with but few exceptions. It is needless for me to enlarge on the present state of our naval and commercial marine, as every one knows the magnitude and formidable qualities of our ships of war, and the beauty and magnificence of our packet and clipper ships in the merchant service. I will only add on this subject, that our country at the present day furnishes models for men-of-war and merchant ships for almost all other nations.

In narrating these Yoyages, it has been my constant aim to do justice to all, and needlessly to hurt the feelings of no individual named in my work ; still, I have strictly adhered to the truth under all circumstances, and have never called good evil nor evil good, and therefore hope to die at peace with God and all mankind.

In conclusion, I would say to those of my readers who may have the patience to follow me through a portion of my wanderings, that whatever may be their opinion with respect to its literary merits, they will do me the justice to believe that candor and impartiality have been my sincere desire.

G. C.

Brooklyn, New York, Oct. 1858.

Contents

Page Dedication, .........3

Preface to the First Edition, ...... 5

Preface to the Second Edition, ------- 9

Preface to the Third Edition, - - - - - - 11

Sketch of the author's early life and parentage, - - - - 25

Chapter I

First foreign voyage in the schooner Charlotte, from New York to Cadiz and back to New York, in the years 1799 and 1800. — Leave Milford to join the Charlotte as cabin-boy. — The melancholy news of General "Washington's death reach New York two days after its occurrence. — Sail on the 22d. — Intense desire to see the Old World. — Arrive at Cadiz the 16th of January.— Description of that city. — Lose a man overboard. — Religious practice at time of vespers. — Sale of indulgences. — Cadiz Bay. — Discharge cargo and load with another of wine and brandy. — Sail for New York, and arrive there the 20th March, - * - - - - 31

Chapter II

Second voyage in the schooner Charlotte to Savannah, thence to the Mediterranean, and back to New York in the year 1800. — Sail from New York. — Arrive at Savannah. — Desertion of the crew at that place. — Load for Gibraltar.— Sail from Savannah. — Sickness of the captain and mate. — Chased by the U. S. brig Pickering. — Arrive at Gibraltar. — Witness a sea-fight between the American ship Louisa and three Spanish and French gun-boats. — Captain of the American ship killed. — Leave Gibraltar for Alicant. — Quarantined thirty days at that place. — Sail from Alicant. — Robbed by pirates. — Touch at Gibraltar. — Leave that place for New York. — Arrive there about the middle of November, - - - - - - 36

Chapter III

Pago Voyage in the brig Horatio, Captain Pringle, from Milford, Connecticut, to Martinique, St. Kitt's and St. Croix, and back to New Haven, iD the years 1800 and 1801. — Cargo under deck, flour, staves, etc. — On deck, horses and small stock. — Sail from Milford the 20th December. — Arrive at St. Pierre, Martinique, the 15th January. — Sell deck load of cattle and sail for St. Kitt's. — See lying at anchor here a small squadron of American men-of-war, under command of Commodore Truxton. — Number of ships composing our navy in 1801, and its number in 1858. — Its force and protection to our commerce. — Its gradual increase. — National motto. — Effectual assistance of privateers and letters-of-marque in the war with England in 1812. — Load with rum and sugar. — Sail for the United States.— Reach New Haven in March, - - - - - - - - -43

Chapter IV

Voyage in the schooner Thomas, with Captain Henry Turner, from Milford, Connecticut, to Berbice and the West India Islands, and back to Milford, in the years 1802 and 1803. — Ashore on Fisher's Island. — Violent gale which lasts three days. — Lose a man overboard. — Remarks on Berbice. — Grenadilla Bank. — Arrive at Milford the 10th April, - - - 4*7

Chapter V

Voyage in the schooner Theresa, with Captain Adam Pond, from Milford, Connecticut, to Terceira, and from thence to New York, in the year 1804. — Leave Montauk Point. — Arrive at Terceira. — Load with fruit. — Remarks on the Azores or Western Islands. — Sail from that place, - - - 54

Chapter VI

Voyage in the schooner Betsey and Polly, with Captain Caleb A. Townsend, from New Haven, Connecticut, to Barbadoes, St. Lucie and St. Martin's, and back to New Haven, in 1804. — Dispose of our cattle at sea. — Men-of-war firing upon the boats of the merchant ships. — Arrive at Barbadoes. — St. Lucie and St. Martin's, - - - - -,'.-.-' - 58

Chapter VII

Voyage in the schooner Industry, to Teneriffe, in the years 1805 and 1806. — Load for Teneriffe. — Sail from New York. — Make the Island of Madeira. — Sleepy captain. — Narrow escape from shipwreck on the Salvages. — Arrive at Teneriffe. — Discharge cargo. — First news of the battle of Trafalgar, and the death of Lord Nelson. — His repulse while storming this place in 1191. — Slip our cables, and go to sea in a violent gale of wind. — Run down and

Pago dismasted by the ship Catherine. — Narrow escape from drowning in the surf. — Eighteen days at sea on the wreck. — Return to Santa Cruz. — Industry condemned. — Transferred to a prize brig. — Sail for New York. — Off Sandy Hook. — See a shot fired from the British frigate Leander into a sloop. — John Pierce, an American citizen, killed. — Meeting of citizens in the Park. — Arrive safe at New York, - - - - -63

CHAPTER YIII.

Voyage in the ship Marshall from New York to Leghorn, and from thence to New Orleans, with Captain William Heth, in the years 1806 and ISO?. — Arrive at Gibraltar. — Catch a great number of turtle. — Arrive at Leghorn. — Remarks on Leghorn aDd Pisa. — Arrive at the mouth of the Mississippi. — Remarks on that river. — A deserter reprieved. — Remarks on New Orleans, - - - - - - - - -71

Chapter IX

First voyage in the schooner Centurion, from New Orleans to Vera Cruz and back to New Orleans, with Captain John Waller, in the year 1807. — Sail from New Orleans. — Arrive at Vera Cruz. — Make a short voyage, and return to New Orleans, - - - - - - -78

Chapter X

Second voyage in the schooner Centurion, to Vera Cruz and back to New Orleans, with Captain J. Waller, in the year 1807. — Sail from New Orleans. — Arrive at Vera Cruz. — Difficulty with the custom-house officers. — Go on board a Spanish sloop-of-war. — Leave Vera Cruz. — Return to New Orleans.— Sail from New Orleans to New York in the schooner Hetty. — Remarks on the attack of the British ship-of-war Leopard on the U. S. frigate Chesapeake, - - - - - - - - -80

Chapter XI

First voyage in the schooner Hamilton, from New York to Vera Cruz, and back to New York, with Captain J. Waller, in the year 1807. — Sail from New York. — Robbed by pirates. — Arrive at Vera Cruz. — Sail from Vera Cruz. — Return to New York, - - - - - -84

Chapter XII

Second voyage in the schooner Hamilton, from New York to Vera Cruz, and back to New York, with Captain J. Waller, in the year 1808. — Arrive at Vera Cruz. — Its harbor. — High prices of merchandise at that place. — Violence of northers. — General remarks on the port and city of Vera Cruz. — Sail for home, and arrive at New York, - - - - - 89

Chapter XIII

Pago Third Voyage in the schooner Hamilton, with Captain John Richards, from New- York to Vera Cruz, thence to Philadelphia, and back to New York, in the year 1808. — Sail from New York. — Arrive at Vera Cruz. — Climate and health of that place. — Take on board Don Jose C. de Villanueva and his family. — Sail from Vera Cruz. — Arrive at Philadelphia, - - - 92

Chapter XIV

Voyage in the brig Henry and Isabella, from New York to St. Bartholomew, and back to New York, in the year 1809. — Sail from New York. — Arrive at St. Bartholomew. — Sail from that place. — First voyage captain. — His motto, -.--,-.'.- ... -95

Chapter XV

Voyage in the ship Virginia, from New York to Petersburg, Va., thence to Europe, and back to New York, in the year 1809. — Sail from Norfolk. — Arrive at Falmouth. — Arrive at Heligoland. — Enter the Eyder. — Remarks on Tonningen. — Also on Hamburg. — Sail from Tonningen. — Pass Fair Island Passage. — Get near the coast of Iceland. — Arrive at New York, - 98

Chapter XVI

First voyage in the pilot-boat schooner Eliza, from New. York to Tonningen, and back to New York, in the year 1810. — Sail from New York. — Get among the ice on the Banks of Newfoundland. — Loss of theship Jupiter among the ice. — Speak the ship Pilgrim. — Pass through the Pentland Firth. — Arrive at Tonningen. — Visit to Hamburg. — Sail from Tonningen. — Arrive at New York, _-.,.-- 108

Chapter XVII

Second voyage in the schooner Eliza, from New York to Sweden and Russia, and back to New York, in the years 1810 and 1811. — Sail from New York. — Arrive at Gottenburg. — Remarks on that city. — Pass through the Great Belt. — Danish gun-boats. — Arrive at Carlsham. — Taken by the English. — Sail from Carlsham. — Arrive at Riga. — Remarks on wintering in Russia. — Sail from Riga. — Lose a man overboard. — Arrive at New York, - - 117

Chapter XVIII

First voyage in the ship America, from Philadelphia to Lisbon, and back to New York, in the years 1811 and 1812. — Drunken mutiny on the Delaware river. — Sail from the Capes. — Ship takes the ground. — Arrive at Lisbon. — Sail from that place. — Make a good voyage for the owners. — Return to New York, -•-..-.-. 143

Chapter XIX

Pago Second voyage in the ship America, from New York to Lisbon, and back to New York, in the year 1812. — Sail from New York. — Arrive at Lisbon. — Remarks on the probability of a war. — Religious mate. — Five days calm weather. — Escape from the enemy. — News of war with England. — Arrive at New York, - - - - - - - - 147

Chapter XX

Third voyage in the ship America, to Lisbon and back to New York, in the years 1812 and 1813. — Sail from New York. — Passage of twenty-five days. — Arrive at Lisbon. — Description of that city. — Sail for New York, and arrive there the 19th January. — Slight sketch of W. W. De Forest, Esq., - 155

Chapter XXI

Voyage to France, and a short cruise in the Bay of Biscay, in the letter-ofmarque schooner David Porter, in the years 1813 and 1814. — Load in Providence, R. I. — Sail from Newport, in a snow storm, bound to Charleston. — Pass through the British fleet. — Chased by sundry English men-of-war, on the passage. — Arrive off Charleston. — Chased by the English brig-of-war Dotterell. — Fire a few shot at her. — Get safe into Charleston. — Load there with cotton. — Sail from Charleston for Bordeaux. — Escape of our first prize. — Encounter a violent gale of wind in the Bay of Biscay. — Schooner struck by a sea, and knocked on her beam-ends. — Arrive at La Teste. — Difficulty with the owners and agents of the cotton. — Bordeaux taken by the English. — Compel the pilot to take the schooner to sea. — Chased by a British frigate. — Narrowly escape her grasp. — Capture four British prizes. — Run for L'He Dieu. — Arrive at that place. — Dispatch the David Porter for New York. — Remarks on L'lle Dieu. — Land at St. Gilles. — Arrive at La Rochelle. — Remarks on that place ; also on the American brigs Rattlesnake and Ida. — Schooner Decatur, etc. — Return to Bordeaux. — Go to Paris. — Visit Nantes and sundry other places on the western coast of France. — Settle all commercial affairs, and prepare to return home, - - - 158

Chapter XXII

A short cruise in the letter-of-marque schooner Leo, from L'Orient to Charleston, and her capture, in the years 1814 and 1815. — Prepare and fit out the Leo, at L'Orient. — Disarmed by order of the French government. — Sail from L'Orient. — Proceed to the English Channel. — Capture several prizes. — Compelled to leave the Channel, and steer to the southward, on account of being badly armed, and very deficient in sails and rigging. — Arrive off Lisbon. — Dismasted while in chase of a British packet. — Taken by the Granicus frigate, and towed round to Gibraltar. — Proceed in the Granicus to Tetuan Bay, Morocco. — Return to Gibraltar. — Refusal of the Governor 2

Pago of that place to parole myself and officers. — Examination at the Admiralty office. — Escape from the garrison, — Go on board a Norwegian galiot.— Hubbub and confusion in Gibraltar, to find the captain of the Leo. — Take passage to Algeciras with a gang of smugglers. — Reside with the family of the captain of the gang. — Aided and protected by the American Consul, Horatio Sprague, Esq. — Leave Algeciras, in disguise, for Cadiz. — Remarks on that region of country. — Arrive at Cadiz. — Kind reception at that place by his old friends and countrymen. — Residence at Cadiz. — Theatres and bull-fights. — Sail from Cadiz for Lisbon, in a Portuguese vessel. — Remarks on the passage. — Arrive at Lisbon. — Sail from that place for New York, in the Portuguese brig " Tres Hermanos." — Remarks on the passage. — Arrive at New York, - - - - . - - 200

CHAPTER XXIH.

Voyage in the ship John Hamilton, from Baltimore to Savannah, thence to Lisbon and St. TJbes, and back to New York, in the years 1815 and 1816. — Fit out the ship in Baltimore. — Sail from that place for Savannah. — Sickness and death of the officers and seamen at that place. — Load with rice. — Sail for Lisbon. — Sickness and death on the passage. — A leaky ship and severe hardships. — Arrive at Lisbon. — Experience a severe earthquake. — Discharge the crew and ship another. — Sail for St. TJbes. — Load with salt. — Remarks on that place. — Encounter icebergs on the passage. — Arrive at New York. — Discharge the crew. — Return to Milford, ... 232

Chapter XXIV

Voyage in the pilot-boat schooner Iris, from New York to Martinique, St. Eustatia, St. Thomas, Porto Rico, St. Martin's, and back to New York, in the years 1816 and 1817. — Sail from New York. — Encounter a severe gale of wind. — Destruction of a French fleet of men-of-war. — Remarks on the size of ships and vessels. — Arrive at St. Pierre, Martinique. — Yellow fever in that port. — General remarks on the island. — Sail from St. Pierre for St. Eustatia. — Arrive at that island. — Remarks on an exhausted volcano. — General remarks on that and the neighboring islands. — Sail from St. Eustatia for St. Thomas. — Arrive at St. Thomas. — Sail for Ponce, Porto Rico. — Arrive at that place. — General remarks on the south side of Porto Rico. — Purchase cattle, corn, and other articles of merchandise. — Death of James Coggeshall. — Narrow escape from assassination. — Visit Penuela. — Attend mass in a Catholic church. — Valiant alcalde. — Load with cattle and corn. — Remarks before leaving the island. — Sail from Ponce, bound to St. Martin's.— Touch at Santa Cruz. — Arrive at St. Martin's. — Remarks on that island. — Visit St. Bartholomew's. — Return to St. Martin's. — Load with sugar. — Sail for New York. — Arrive at that city, the 30th of April, - 247

Chapter XXV

Page Voyage in the schooner Iris, from New York to Teneriffe, St. Thomas, Havana, and from thence to New York, in the years 1818 and 1819. — Preliminary remarks. — Sail from New York. — Pass through Long Island Sound. — A severe gale. — Novelty of ocean scenery. — Arrive at Teneriffe. — Hire a house in Santa Cruz. — Costume of the Spanish ladies. — A jaunt to the interior of the island. — A visit to the churches and nunneries. — Conversation with the nuns. — Magnificent view of the peak. — Port of Orotava. — Load with brandy. — General remarks on the Canary Islands. — Sail from Teneriffe. — Arrive at St. Thomas. — Get supplies of fruit, &c. — Sail from St. Thomas. — Pass through Sail Rock Passage. — Make the Hole-in-the-Wall. — Bahama Banks. — Arrive at the Havana. — Remarks on that place. — Load the Iris in the Havana. — Sail from that place. — Arrive at New York, - 268