The Chinese Empire A Squel To Recolections Of A Journey Through Tartary And Thibet

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CHINESE EMPIRE

P P I '* T 3E D

T-CYPOS

CHAPTER I. Arrangements for our Departure.—New Costume.—Departure from Ta-tsien

lou_Farewell of our Thibetan Escort. —Aspect of the Road. — Suspension-

Bridge over the River Lou. — Family of our Conductor. — Palanquinhearers.— Long Caravans of Porters.—Riot on our account in the Town of Ta-tcheou.—Country assumes definitively a Chinese Character. —Triumphal Arches and Monuments erected in Honour of Virgins and Widows.—Com¬ munal Palaces for Travelling Mandarins. —Discovery of a Christian Family. —Aristocracy of Khioung-tcheou. —Introduction and Ravages of Opium m China.—Magnificent Monastery of Bonzes. — Interview with a Christian of the Capital ot Sse-tchouen.—Arrival at Tching-tou-fou - Page I

CHAP. H.

Conversation with the Prefect of the Garden of Flowers, — Lodgings in the Court of Justice. — Invitation to Dinn^ with the two Prefects of the Town. — Conversation with two Persons ot Distinction. — Two Mandarins of Honour assigned to amuse us. — Solemn Judgment before the assembled Tribunals.—Various Incidents of the Trial.—Report addressed to the Emperor concerning us, and the Emperor’s Answer. — Imperial Edicts in favour of Christians, obtained by the French Embassy in China. — Insuffi¬ ciency of these Edicts. — Appearance before the Viceroy.—Portrait of this Personage. —Despatch of the Viceroy to the Emperor. —Conversation with the Viceroy .-------24

Tching-tou-fou, the Capital of the Province of Sse-tchouen. —Numerous Visits of Mandarins. — Constitutive Principle of the Chinese Government. — The Emperor. — Curious Organisation of Chinese Nobility. — Central Adminis¬ tration of Pekin. — The Six Sovereign Courts.—Imperial Academy.— Moniteur of Pekin. — Provincial Gazettes. — Administration of the Pro¬ vinces.— Rapacity of the Mandarins.—Venality of Justice. — Family of a . Magistrate — his two*Sons—his Schoolmaster. — Primary Instruction very

widely diffused in China. — Chinese Urbanity. — System of Instruction._

Elementary Book.—The Four Classical Books. — The Five Sacred Books. —Arrangements for our Departure.—Last Visit to the Viceroy - 51

XXIV

CONTENTS.

CHAP. IV.

Departure from Tching-tou-fou. — Letter thrown into our Palanquin, at the Gate of the Town. — Christianity in China. — Its Introduction in the 5th and 6th Centuries. — Monument and Inscription at Si-ngan-fou. — Progress of Christianity in the 14th Century. — Arrival of the Portuguese in China. — Macao. — Lather Matthew Ricci.— Departure of the hist Chinese Mission¬ aries. —Prospcnty of the Religion under the Emperor Khang-hi.—Persecu¬ tion under the Emperor Young-telling. — Abandonment of the Missions_

Numerous Departures of the new Missionaries.—Glance at the Present State of Christianity in China. — Motives of Hostility in the Government towards Christians. — Indiffercntism of the Chinese m Matters of Religion. — Honours paid to us on our Road. — Halt at a Communal Palace.—

Trickery on the part of Master Ting.—Navigation of the Blue River_

Arrival at Kien-tcheou - - - Page 86

CHAP. V.

Disputes with the Mandarins of Kien-tchcou. — Intrigues to prevent us from going to the Communal Palace.—Magnificence of this Palace.—The Garden of Sse-ma-Kouang. — Chinese Kitchen. — State of the Iioads and Channels of Communication. — Some Productions of the Province of Ssetchonen. —Use of Tobacco, in Smoking and taking Snuff.—Tchoung-tcliing, a Town of the First Order. — Ceremonies observed by the Chinese m Visits and Conversations of Etiquette, — Nocturnal Apparition.—Watchmen and Criers of the Town.—Fires in China. — The Addition of a Military Mandarin to our Escort. — Tchang-cheou-hien, a Town of the Third Older.

— Release of three Christian Prisoners. — Superstitious Practices to obtain

Rain. — The Dragon of Rain exiled by the Emperor - - - 115

CHAP. VL

Bad and dangerous Road. — Leang-chan, a Town of the Third Order_Dis¬

putes between our Conductors and the Mandarins of Leang-chan —A Day of Rest.—Numerous Visits of Christians. — A Military Mandarin of our Escort compromises himself. — He is excluded from our Table. — Great Trial presided over by the Missionaries. — Details of this singular Trial. -— Acquittal of a Christian, and Condemnation of a Mandarin. — Triumphal Departure from Leang-chan. — Servitude and abject State of Women in China—Their Restoration by Christianity. — Master Ting declares that Women have no Souls. — Influence of Women in the Conversion of Nations. —Arrival at Yao-tchang.—Hotel of the Beatitudes.—Lodgings in a Theatre,

— Navigation of the Blue River.—Plays and Players in China - 144

CHAP. VH.

Temple of Literary Composition. — Quarrel with a Doctor. — A Citizen in the Canguc. — His Deliverance. — Visit to the Tribunal of Ou-chan. — Th5 Prefect and Military Commandant of Ou-chan. — Medical Jurisprudence of the Chinese.— Inspection of Dead Bodies.—Frequent Suicides in China.— Considerations on this Subject. — Singular Character of Chinese Politeness.

CONTENTS.

XXV

—The Boundaries which separate the Frontier of Sse-tchouen from that of Hou-po. —Glance over Sse-tchouen.— Its principal Productions. — Cha¬ racter of its Inhabitants. — Kouang-ti, God of War, and Patron of the Mantchoo Dynasty — Official Worship paid to him. — Wells of Salt and Eire. — State of Scientific Knowledge among the Chinese. — State of Chris¬ tianity in the Province of Sse-tchoucn - Page 172

CHAP. VIII.

Arrival at Pa-toung, a Frontier Town of Hou-pe. —Literary Examinations — Character of the Chinese Bachelor. — Condition of Writers. —Written Lan¬ guage.— Spoken Language. — Glance at Chinese Literature. — The Celestial Empire an immense Library.—Study of Chinese m Europe.—Embai’kation

on the Blue River.—Salt Custom-House-Smuggling Mandarin. —Dispute

with the Prefect of I-tchang-fou. —A Mandarin wishes to put us in Chains. — System of Customs in China. — I-tou-hien, a Town of the Third Class. —Amiable and interesting Magistrate of that Town.—Geographical Know¬ ledge of the Chinese. — Narrative of an Arab who travelled in China in the Ninth Century before the Christian. Era - - - - 196

CHAP. IX.

Names given by the Chinese to the Kingdoms of Europe. — Origin of tlie Words China and the Chinese.—Explanation of the various Names that; the Chinese give to their Empire. — Good and venerable Prefect of Song-tche-hien. — Portrait of the ancient Mandarins. — Holy Instructions of the Emperors. — A Khorassanian of the Imperial Court. — Details concerning the Manners of the Ancient Chinese.—Causes of the Decay of the Chinese. — Means employed by the Mantchoo Dynasty to consolidate its Power.— Foreigners not always excluded fromtChina. —Bad Policy of the Govern¬ ment. — General Presentiment of a Revolution. — Navigation on the Blue River.—Tempest.—Loss of Provisions.—Running aground three Times.— Shipwreck. — The Shipwrecked - - - - - 221

CHAP. X.

Chinese City in a State of Siege. — Nautical Sports on the Blue River._

Quarrel between Victors and Vanquished. — Civil War at Kin-tcheou.— Glance at the military Strength of the Chinese Empire. — Discovery of two Soldiers in the Residence of the Missionary. — Description of an extra¬ ordinary Review of Troops.—Policy of the Mantchoo Dynasty with respect to Soldiers.—Chinese Navy.—Cause of the Want of Bravery in the Chinese during the last War with the English. — Resources of the Empire for the Formation of a good Army and a powerful Navy. — A great Reformer needed. — Departure from Kin-tcheou. — Route by Laud. — Great Heat. — Journey during the Night by Torch and Lantern - - - 248

CHAP. XL

Dangerous Illness.—Mandarins’ Prescriptions.—Visit of the Doctor.—Theory of tba Pulse.— Apothecaries in China, — Trade in Medicine. ■—Increase of xxvi

CONTENTS.

the Malady. — Acupuncture. — The Supernatural Treasure of Bed Pills. — Experimental Medicine. — Origin and History of the Cholera in China.— Eree Practice of Medicine. — Good Effects of Red Pills. — Cure. —Terrible Law of Responsibility. — Tragic Story. — Kind Attention of the Prefect of Kuen-kiang-hien.— Fondness of the Chinese for Coffins. — Journey of a Sick Man by the Side of his Bier. — Calmness and Tranquillity of the Chinese at the Moment of Heath. —Visit to our Coffin.— Departure from Kuen-kiang-hien ------ Page 271

CHAP. XH.

Visit of the Mandarins of Tien-men.— Their Attention to us.—Fame of Tien-men for the Number and Beauty of its Water-melons. — Extensive Use of the Water-melon Seed. — Caustic Humour of a Young Military Mandarin. — The Inhabitants of Sse-tchouen treated as Strangers m the Province of Hou-pe.— Prejudices of Europeans with regard to Chinese. —The Manner in which most Works on China are composed. — True View of the supposed Immobility of the Orientals.—Revolutions in the Chinese Empire. — Socialist School in the Eleventh Century. — Account of their System. — Long and severe Struggle. — Transportation of Tartar Agitators.—Causes of the Barbanan Invasions - - - - - - -296

CHAP. XHI.

Arrival at Han-tchouan— Custom of presenting a Pair of Boots to a disgraced Mandarin. — Placards and Advertisements. — Privileges and Liberty en¬ joyed by the Chinese_Association against Gamblers.— Society of the Old

Bull. — Liberty of the Press. — Public Lectures, — European Prejudice concerning the Despotism of Asiatic Governments. — Carelessness of Magis¬ trates.— Remembrance of the Sufferings of the Venerable Perboyre.—

Navigation of a Lake.—Floating Islands. — Population of China_Its

Caases and Dangers.— Cormorant Fishing. — Some Details of Chinese Manners.—Bad Reception at Han-yang.—We follow a wrong Course.— Passage of the Yang-tse-kiang..—Arrival at Ou-tcliang-fou - - 316

CHAP. XIV.

Bad Lodging in a Little Pagoda. — Ou-tchang-fou, Capital of Hou-pe.—Limits of the Chinese Empire.—Mountains.—Rivers. — Lakes. — Climate.—Prin¬ cipal Productions. — Chinese Industry. — Causes of its Decline.—Former Exhibitions of the Productions of Arts. — Relations of the Chinese with Foreigners. — Present State of their Commerce with Europeans. — Internal Trade of China.—Interest of Money.—System of Chinese Economists upon Interest of Thirty per Cent. —Pecuniary Societies. — Immense Commercial Mart in the Centre of the Empire. — System of Canals. — Aptitude of the Chinese for Commerce. —Monetary System. — Influence of the Sapeck.— Infinitesimal Trade ------- 340

CHAP. XV.

Attempt to see the Governor of the Province. —We force the Guard of his Palace. — The Governor of Hou-p6. — Conversation with this exalted Per-

CONTENTS.

xxvii sonage.— Good Result of the Visit. — Moving. — Courtesy of a Cook.— Adieus of Master Ting, and the Ssc-tchouen Escort.—The Mandarin Lieou, or the “Weeping Willow,” Chief of the new Escort.—Chinese Architecture. —Towers — Pagodas. — Eine Arts. — Religion. — Doctrine of the Literary Class. — Great Honours rendered to Confucius.—Doctors of Reason.—Life and Opinions of the Philosopher Lao-tze.—Buddhism. —Legend of Buddha. — Dogmas and Moral Precepts.—Buddhists persecuted by thcBiahmins.— Causes of these Persecutions. — Dispersion of the Buddhists through the various Countries of Asia ----- Page 368

CHAP. XVI.

All Religions condemned by the Chinese Government. — Formulas of Scepti¬ cism.— Condition of the Bonzes of China. — Buddhist Monasteries.— Reli¬ gious Architecture. — Temple of Pou-Tou. — Library of the Monastery— Visit to the Superior of the Bonzes. — Profound Respect of the Chinese for Writing.—Convent of Bonzesses.—Ceremonies to recal the Souls of the Dying when they are escaping. — Death of a young Bachelor. — Mourning of the Chinese. — Singular Mode of Lamenting the Dead. — Interments. — Worship of Ancestors. — Chinese Classification of Various Ages of Life.— Marriage in China—Servitude of Women. — Discord in Domestic Life.— Examples.—Sect of Abstinent Women - 395

CHAP. xvn.

Departure from the Capital of Hou-pe.—Farewell Visit to the Governor of the Town. — Burial of the Two Martyrs. — State of Christianity in Hou-pe.

— Disagreeable Incidents on the Road. — No Provisions m a Town of the Third Order.—Visit to the Palace the Town Prefect. — Treatment of Criminals. — Horrible Details of a Trial. — The Kouan-kouen, or Chinese Bandit. — Mode of Administering Justice.— Code of Laws. — General Con¬ siderations upon Chinese Legislation.—Penal and Materialistic Character of the Code.—Defect of Precision in certain Laws.—Principle of Solidarity.

— Laws relating to Officers of Government. — Organisation of the Family.

— Repression of Crime. — Ritual Laws. — Taxes and Territorial Pro¬ perty -------- 422

CHAP. XVIH

Departure from Kouang-tsi-hien. — Storm.—Government Couriers. — Mode of Epistolary Correspondence. — Grand Festival at Hoang-mei-hien.—Fire¬ works— Chinese Music.—Idea we ought to have of the Music of the Ancient Chinese.—Imperial Road to Pekin.—The Roads in China.—Halt upon the Borders of Lake Ponyang.—Embarkation. — Kalckcrlacs on board the Junk. — Glance over the Province of Hou-pe. — Agriculture m China,—Imperial Festival of Labour. — Details concerning Agriculture. — Agricultural Pro¬ ductions.— The Bamboo. — The Water-lily. —Imperial Rice-Observant

Character of the Chinese. — Classification of Corn. — What becomes of the Swallows during Winter. — Manner of making a Cat tell the Time.— Method of hindering Asses from Braying - 449

SXV111

CONTENTS.

CHAP. XIX.

Navigation of the Pou-yang.— Great Number of Junks. ^—Desert Tracts.— Pauperism in China. — Bands of Mendicants. — Society for Giatuitous Coffins. — The King of the Beggars. — The Hen’s Peathers Inn. — Causes of Pauperism. — Gaming. — Various Chinese Games. — Mode of eluding the Law against Gamblers. — Drunkenness. — The Vine, Wine, and Coni Brandy. — Infanticide. — Its Causes. — Truth and Exaggeration concerning Infanticide in China — Yu-yng-tang, or Foundling Hospital. — Edict against Infanticide.—Work of the Society of Holy Infancy - Page 475

CHAP. XX.

Uncultivated Tracts in the Province of Kiang-si. — The Guard-house. — The Vinegar Polypus.—The Mandarin and his Steed.—Theft of Water-melons. —Arrival at Nan-tchang-fou. — Mode of Installing Oneself in the Palace of Literary Composition. — Solemn Public Supper. — Disappointment of the

Spectators.—Visit of the Prefect of the Town. — A Mongol Mandarin_

His Geographical Knowledge. — Labours of the Protestant Methodists in

China. — Chinese Astronomers. — Aspect of the Capital of Kiang-si_

Manufacture of Porcelain. — Chinese Antiquaries. — Origin of the God of Porcelain.—Pisciculture in Kiang-si.— New Travelling Arrangements. 499

CHAP. XXL

Departure from Nan-tchang-fou.—A Mandarin Junk. — Comfort and Luxury of Water-carriage.—Vehicles and Hotels. — Fiacre and Cabriolet Stands at Pekin.—Chinese light Literature.— Collections of Maxims and Proverbs. —Passage of the Mountain Mei-ling.— Nan-lnoung, the Frontier Town.— Chinese Hope Dancers. — Little Feet of the Women.—Origin of this Custom.—Navigation of the Tigris.—Eeeollections of our Entry into

China in 1840.—View of the Port of Canton.—European Vessels. First

Night in Canton.— Our Martyrdom in Tartaiy. — Savings on the Load

bestowed upon our Servant Wei-chan.—Stay at Macao Death of M. Gabet.

—Departure for Pekin—Arrival at Marseilles in 1852 - - 518

THE

CHINESE EMPIRE.

CHAPTER I.

Arrangements for our Departure. — New* Costume. — Departure from Ta-tsien-lou. — Farewell of our Thibetan. Escort. — Aspect of the Hoad. — Suspension-bridge over the River Lou.—Family of our Conductor.—Pa¬ lanquin-bearers. — Long Caravans of Porters. — Riot on our Account in the Town of Ya-tcheou. — Country assumes definitively a Chinese Character. — Triumphal Arches and Monuments erected in honour of Yirgins and Widows. — Communal Palaces for travelling Mandarins. — Discovery of a Christian Family. — Aristocracy of Khioung-tchoou. — Introduction and Ravages of Opium in China. — Magnificent Monastery of Bonzes. — Interview with a Christian of the Capital of Sse-tchouen. — Arrival at Tching-tou-fou. ^

Two years had passed since we bade adieu to the Christians of the Valley of Black Voters. With the exception of a residence of some months in the Lama convent of Koumboum, and in the bosom of the capital of Buddhism, we had been since then per¬ petually journeying through the vast deserts of Tartary and over the high mountains of Thibet. But these two years of inex¬ pressible fatigue were not sufficient: we were still far from the end of our sufferings. Before we could hope to enjoy any repose, we had to cross the frontiers of China, and traverse this immense empire from West to East.

Formerly, upon our first entrance on the mission, we had tra¬ versed it throughout its entire extent from North to South; but that was secretly, by stealth,—along bye-paths and in darkness,— pretty much, in fact, in the fashion of bales of contraband goods.

Now our position was altogether different. We were to inarch openly in broad daylight, keeping the middle of the Imperial high road. Those mandarins, the very sight of whom used to throw us

B into a cold shiver, and who would have been so extremely happy to put us to the torture, if we had fallen into their hands, had now to make up their minds to serve us for an escort, and to over¬ whelm us with respect and politeness all along the road.

We were about to become acquainted, in China, with a civilisa¬ tion extremely unlike that of Europe, hut not less complete in its kind. The climate, too, would he no longer the same, and the means of communication would he greatly superior to those of Tartary and Thibet.

No more fear of snow, and rocks, and precipices,—of wild beasts and robbers of the desert. An immense population, provisions in abundance, a richly varied magnificent landscape, luxurious and agreeable, though sometimes whimsical habitations, — this was what we might look for during this new. and long stage of our journey. We knew the Chinese, however, too well to feel quite at our ease in this altered position. Ki-chan* had, indeed, given orders that we should be treated kindly, * hut, in fact, we were, after all, given up to the tender mercies of the mandarins. After having escaped a thousand dangers in the wild countries that we had just passed through, we felt no security that we were not to perish of hunger and privation in the very bosom of abundance and civilisation, and we were convinced that our fate would greatly depend on the attitude we should assume from the be¬ ginning.

We have observed elsewhere that the Chinese, and especially the mandarins, are strong agamst the weak and weak against the strong. To domineer over, and crush all around them, is the object they constantly have in view, and to. attain it they have an inexhaustible resource in their native cunning and pliability of character. Once allow them to get the upper hand, and it is all over with you ; but if you can only succeed in mastering them, you will find them ever after as docile and manageable as children. You may turn and twist them which way you will; Jout beware of showing yourself weak with them for a moment, for they must he ruled with an iron hand. The Chinese mandarins areVetty much like their own long bamboos. If one can but manage to get hold of them in the right way, they are easily bent double and kept so; but if for a second you let go, they are up again in a moment as straight as ever. It was on a constant struggle, there¬ fore, .that we were about to enter — a struggle of every day, and

* Chinese ambassador at the Court of Lha-ssa. See “ Recollections of a Journey,’* &c., vol.ii. p. 285.

CHARACTER OF THE MANDARINS.

all dav long, from Ta-UienAou to Canton. There was no middle course: we must* either submit to their will or make them submit to ours; and we determined to adopt the latter mode of proceed¬ ing ; for we were by no means inclined to have our long pilgrimage terminate in some ditch behind the ramparts of a Chinese town '; that was evidently not the martyrdom that missionaries sigh after. In the first place, we had to maintain a long and vehement dispute with the principal mandarin of Ta-tsien-lou j", who would not consent that we should continue our journey in palanquins: he was obliged to give way, however, thanks to the energy and per¬ severance of our protests. For these two years past we had had to bestride horses of every size, age, and quality, so that our limbs longed at last to stretch themselves out at ease in a pa¬ lanquin.

After this first triumph, it was necessary to revolt against the decrees of the “Tribunal of Rites,” on the subject of the costume that we were to adopt. We had said to ourselves, in every country in the world, and especially in China, clothes play a very impor¬ tant part in the affairs of mankind; and since we have to inspire a salutary fear among the Chinese, it is by no means a matter of indifference in what way we are to be dressed. We cast aside, therefore, our Thibet costume,—the frightful wolfskin cap, the cheeked hose, and the long fur tunic, that exhaled so strong an odour of beef and mutton, and we got a skilful tailor to make us some beautiful sky-blue robes in the newest fashion of Pekin. We provided ourselves with magnificent black satin boots, adorned with soles of dazzling whiteness. So far the aforesaid Tribunal of Rites had no objection; but when we proceeded to gird up our

* Our fears were not chimerical. On our arrival at Macao, we learned that a French Lazanste, M. Caiayon, had been recognised and arrested m one of our missions in the north of China. According to the decree obtained by M. Lagrcntjo, a missionary could not be condemned and put to death ih the same summary manner as before; but was to be sent, ut an honourable manner , to Macao. The honourable manner in which M. Carayon was sent to Canton, was in chains, and in the company of malefactors; and he was exposed to such cruel dl-treatment on the way, that he died very shortly afterwards.

Anothei, an Italian missionary, sent there in the same manner, was actually refused the smallest allowance of food, and died of starvation the very dav of his arrival at Canton. It would be too long to mention the names of all"the missionaries who, quite recently, have fallen victims to the malice of the Chinese; but, so lately as 1851, M. Vacher, of the Foreign Missions, was arrested in the province of Yun-nan t and thrown into prison, where shortly afterwards he was suffocated.

f The first town on the Chinese frontier that you meet with in coming from Thibet.

THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

loins with red sashes, and cover our heads with embroidered yellow caps, we caused a universal shudder among all beholders, and the emotion ran through the town like an electric current, till it reached the civil and military authorities. They cried aloud that the red sash and the yellow cap were the attributes of Im¬ perial Majesty,—allowable only to the family of the Emperor, and forbidden to the people under pain of perpetual banishment. On this point the Tribunal of Rites would be inflexible, and we must reform our costume accordingly. We, on our side, alleged, that being strangers, travelling as such, and by authority, we were not bound to conform to the ritual of the empire,—but had the right of following the fashion of our own country, which allowed every one to choose the form and colour of his garments, according to his own fancy. They insisted,—they became angry,—they flew into a furious passion ; —we remained calm and immovable, but vowing that we would never part with our red sashes and yellow caps. Our obstinacy was not to be overcome, and the mandarins submitted — as they ought to do.

The military mandarin of Mussulman origin, whom we had picked up at Ly-tang after the decease of the Pacificator of King¬ doms was to escort us to Tching-tou the capital of the province of Sse-tcJiouen . It had been agreed that his mission should end on the frontier, but the mandarins of Ta-tsien-lou found us such crabbed and troublesome customers, that they declined the honour of conducting our caravan. ^The Mussulman seemed not at all ambitious of it; but, like a true disciple of Mahomed, he knew how to resign himself to his fate, and say calmly, “It is* written.”

At last we quitted Ta-tsien-lou, to the great satisfaction of the mandarins of the place, who had begun to despair of converting us to their ideas of civilisation. We kept the same escort that we had*taken at Lha-ssa> only reinforced by some young recruits of * the province, commanded by a long, lean corporal, who with his robes tucked up to his middle, his legs naked, a large umbrella in one hand, and a fan in the other, had not, it must be owned, a very strikingly military appearance. As for ourselves, snugly ensconced in our dear palanquins, we were borne rapidly along by four vigorous Chinese bearers, over excavations, rocks, and mud holes, and we soon outstripped our escort, who could by no means vie with the bearers in strength and agility.

After marching five lif we halted; the Chinese set down our

* See “Recollections of a Journey,” vol. ii. p. 398.

t A li is the tenth of a Erench league.

FAREWELLS.

palanquin, and invited us to get out in very polite terms, and with a slight smile that seemed to indicate some mystery ; and, as soon as we were out, we were agreeably surprised to find behind a rocky hill the Lama Dchiamdchan, with his little Thibetan troop.' 1 ' These honest fellows had come to meet us in order to bid us fare¬ well once more in the manner of their country. They had pi'epared a collation of Chinese pastry, preserves, apricots, and rice wine, which they had spread on the grass, under the shade of some large trees, and we were soon seated round it in a mood of mingled joy and sadness. "We were happy to find ourselves once more together, but our joy was greatly damped by the thought that we were again about to separate and most likely for ever. The escort that we had left behind was not long in coming up, and after having bade adieu to our dear Thibetans and said, ie Au revoir we again got into our palanquins.

An revoir —those words so full of consolation, and which so often dry the tears of parting friends, — how many times had we pronounced them in the sure and certain hope of seeing again one day those to whom they were addressed! How many times in China, in Tartary, in Thibet, in Egypt, in Palestine, had we uttered them to friends whom we were to see no more !

God hides the future from us : He will not permit us to know his designs with respect to ns, — and it is in accordance with his infinite goodness that he does not, for there are separations that would kill us if we knew them to h^ for ever. These Thibetans, to whom we were attached by so many ties, we never saw again; but we shall always retain one great consolation —we can pray to God # for these interesting populations, and petition that the missionaries charged to preach the Gospel to them may succeed in guiding.them from the chill and darkness of Buddhism to the light and vivifying warmth of the Christian faith.

The road that we had been following from Ta-tsien-lou had been constantly descending, and -we soon found ourselves in a deep and narrow valley, watered by a limpid stream whose hanks were fringed by willows and bamboos. On either side arose, almost perpendicularly, lofty and majestic mountains, ornamented with stately trees, and an inexhaustible variety of plants and fiowers. Our eyes feasted on the brilliant colours, and the exqui¬ site verdure, and were filled with tears of. delight as we inhaled the balmy fragrance of the air : our whole being seemed to expand

* The chief of tho Thibet escort that had accompanied us from Lha-ssa to the Chinese frontier. {See “ Recollections,” vol. in p. 398.

G

THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

with, rapture. One must have lived for two whoje years amidst ico and snow, dreary arid mountains and sandy deserts, to feel all the intoxicating charm of such a landscape, and the delicious re¬ pose afforded by fresh green grass to an eye wearied by the dead monotonous whiteness of snow.

The road led along the course of the stream. Sometimes we passed from one bank to the other over little wooden bridges covered with turf, and sometimes over large stones thrown^ into the bed of the rivulet. But nothing relaxed the speed .of our bearers ; on they went, over every obstacle, and always with the same rapidity, agility, and courage. Now and then they made a short halt to wipe the sweat from their brows and smoke a pipe, and then they resumed their march with redoubled vigour. The narrow valley we were passing through seemed but little fre¬ quented ; we met only from time to time some parties of travellers, amongst whom, it was easy for us to distinguish the vigorous, energetic, and barbarous Thibetan from the pallid cunning-looking faces of the civilised Chinese. On all sides we could see docks of goats and long-haired oxen, feeding on the mountain pastures, w r hilst countless birds warbled amid the branches of the trees.

We passed the first night in a humble and badly provided inn ; but as the habitations we had met with in Thibet had not accus¬ tomed us to much luxury, we were very well pleased with what we found. The miseries of every kind that we had suffered, had had the,effect of rendering us patient under all the trials of life.

On the following day, the road became more wild and perilous. As we advanced, the valley closed in, and became encumbered with enormous masses of rock and great trees that had fallen from the crest of the mountains. The stream that had borne us company the day before, like a faithful friend, now gradually turned away from us, and at last disappeared in a deep gorge. A torrent that we had heard roaring for a long time, like distant thunder, suddenly came in sight from behind a mountain and dashed itself furiously over the rocks. We followed it a long time in its erratic course, and saw it descend from point to point in noisy cascades, or trail its greenish waters like a huge serpent into dark hollows of the mountains. On this day we had no longer the pleasure of gazing on a peaceful and smiling landscape of trees and flowers, but this wild and savage grandeur of nature was not without its charms.