Texas. Observations, historical, geographical and descriptive, in a series of letters, written during a visit to Austin's colony, with a view of a permanent settlement in that country, in the autumn of 1831

Front matter

TT-

in 2011 witli funding from

LP \L ftfelL

Introduction

Iexas, until within the last few years, has been, literally, a terra incognita. That such a region existed, has, indeed, been known; but in respect to its geography and natural resources, clouds and darkness have rested upon it. This is the more remarkable, lying as it does, contiguous to two enlightened nations, the United States, on the one side, and Mexico, on the other, being, moreover, very easy of access, both by land and sea. While Britons, impelled by a daring spirit of enterprise, have penetrated to the ice-bound region of Melville's Island, and our own New Englanders have encountered all the hardships and hazards of the western desert, the Rocky Mountains and hostile Indians, to find a home at the mouth of Columbia river, this most inviting region, lying just at their doors, has been altogether overlooked. Quite unexpectedly, as it

were, a report has reached the public ear, that 1* b INTRODUCTION.

the country lying west of the Sabine river, is a tract of surpassing beauty, exceeding even our best western lands in productiveness, with a climate perfectly salubrious, and of a temperature, at all seasons of the year, most delightfuL The admirers of this new country, speaking from actual knowledge, and a personal inspection, are not content, in their descriptions of it, to make use of ordinary terms of commendation. They hesitate not to call it a splendid country — an enchanting spot. It would seem as if enchantment had, indeed, thrown its spell over their minds, for, with very few exceptions, all who return from this fairy land, are perfect enthusiasts in their admiration of it. Whatever qualifications to its excellence, the most cautious of them are disposed to make, have reference to those inconveniences, which unavoidably pertain to every country in tlie incipient stages of its settlement. So apparently extravagant have been the representations of the natural beauty and resources of this country, that many persons are incredulous, and attribute them to the schemes of interested contractors, eager to allure the unwary emigrant, by deceptive statements. Such a motive, if it really actuates the conduct of any one.

INTRODUCTION. i

cannot be, too severely, condemned. A design more criminal and disgraceful cannot be, easily, conceived of, and ought not to be lightly insinuated against respectable men. What design more cruel, than that of deliberately seducing, not the confiding emigrant alone, but, with him, his wife and children, to become the certain victims of privation, disappointment and ultimate ruin, in the wilderness. The character and respectability of the witnesses above referred to, at once, repel an insinuation so atrocious.

While listening, for the first time, to the favourable reports of Texas, it must be confessed, a suspicion is very apt to arise in the mind, that so much imputed excellence if it really existed, could not have been so long concealed from the view of the world; and we are prone to ask, how has it happened, that a territory, possessing such micommon advantage of climate and soil, has not been explored and appropriated before. To this very natural inquiry, a satisfactory answer is at hand.

Two causes seem to have operated to prevent the earlier settlement of the province of Texas, and to retard the developement of its resources. In the first place, the jealous policy of the old

Spanish government, uniformly discouraged all attempts to penetrate into the country. It was the policy of the government, that completely locked up Texas, and all the Spanish American possessions, and excluded even visiters and travellers. It was a favourite saying of the Spanish Captain General of the internal provinces, Don Nemisio Salcedo, that he would stop the birds from flying over the boundary line between Texas and the United States, if it were in his power. This rigid policy prevented any one from attempting to explore the country by land, for perpetual imprisonment was the inevitable result of detection and capture.

In the second place, the Carancahua Indians, who inhabited the coast, were represented to be of a character, uncommonly ferocious. They were, popularly, believed to be cannibals, and many tales of most frightful import, were told, of them; such as, if true, it must be acknowledged, were sufficiently appaling to check the enterprise, and damp the ardour of the most eager adventurer. These representations of the character of the Carancahuas, though, in a measure true, were, greatly, exaggerated; and it is believed by many, that they were either fabricated

INTRODUCTION. D

or at least countenanced, by the Spanish authorities, to prevent intercourse with the Province, which it was not easy to guard by a military force. Thus, the whole of this country remained for ages unknown to the world, and instead of being converted into an abode of industrious and happy freemen, as it might have been, it was doomed by the selfishness of men, to continue a howling wilderness. No maps, charts or geographical notices, were ever allowed by the Spaniards to be taken of it. The map, compiled by Col. Austin, and published by Tanner, is the first and only correct geographical information of the country, that has been ever published. The persons who were engaged in the expeditions under Generals Bernardo, Guitierrez and Toledo, in 1812-13, knew nothing of Texas, except along and near, the road they travelled, for they were too much occupied, by the war, during the short time, they had possession, to explore the country. It is uncertain how long this extensive and valuable country would have remained unknown and unsettled, had not the bold enterprise and perseverance of the Austins, torn away the veil that hid it from the view of the world, and redeemed it from the wilderness, by the settlement of a flourishing colony of North Americans, on the Brazos and Colorado rivers. With the settlement of this colony, a new era has dawned upon Texas. The natural riches of this beautiful Province have begun to be unfolded, and its charms displayed, to the eyes of admiring adventurers. A new island, as it were, has been discovered, in these latter days, at our very doors, apparently fresh from the hands of its Maker, and adapted, beyond most lands, both to delight tlie senses, and enrich the pockets, of those, who are disposed to accept of its bounties.

Without any assistance from the government, or fostering care of any sort, but simply under a permission to enter, some thousands of industrious farmers and mechanics, with their families, have already located themselves here. Their numbers are rapidly increasing, and there cannot be a doubt, that, in a few years, Texas will become one of the most thriving, if not the most populous, of the Mexican States.

Of the numerous contracts for purposes of colonization, made by the Mexican Government with individuals and companies, few of those of early date, for causes, which it is not necessary now to mention, have proved successful, while that of Col. Austin, to which the following letters have especial reference, has been eminently so. The author of these letters, made a visit of observation to this colony, in the autumn of 1831, with a view to tlie ultimate settlement of herself and family. Many of her friends did not hesitate to condemn tlie enterprise as romantic, and too adventurous for a female. Allured however, by the flattering representations of the country, made to her, by persons in whose judgment she placed implicit confidence, and tempted by the very liberal terms of settlement proposed by the colonization laws; but, above all, impelled by a desire, which every widowed mother will know how to appreciate, of making some provision for an only son, a provision, which, if not immediately available, cannot fail to be ample, at some future day; favoured, also, by a previous personal acquaintance with Col. Austin himself, and encouraged by a brother already established in the country, she resolved to go. But previous to a final removal from her native land, prudence dictated, that she should first cast an eye of observation over the ground, the probable scene of her future weal or woe.

The result of her expedition was, a decided purpose of removal, as soon as domestic arrangements would permit. Her most sanguine impressions of the natural advantages of the country, both with regard to Ihe salubrity of the climate, the fertility of the soil, and the facility with which the lands can be brought under cultivation, were confirmed, and, without further hesitation, she determined to choose this spot for her home.

To the enterprising public, especially to emigrants, the following letters, in the hope of being useful, are respectfully presented.

The publication of them was suggested, by the notice of some queries, by the London Geographical Society, regarding the localities, the moral and physical capabilities and prospects of Texas, with a view to emigration, to wliich queries a distinct, and it is believed, satisfactory reply, will be found, in the subsequent pages. The commands of numerous friends, to whom a visit to Texas seemed little less marvellous, than the wanderings of Dante on the other side of the Styx, enjoined upon her, to observe and tell them all about the country^ and to assure them, whether it were, or were not, nfabulovs land.

The public mind, seemed to require, more just, more distinct, and detailed information, than had, hitherto, been given: many persons, disposed to emigrate to this fair portion of the earth, needed assurance, that the natives do not kill and eat people there, nor always insult and rob them. It has been thought, that an exact representation of things, J2i5f as they are, in this beautiful and fertile country, where the greatest abundance of all valuable and substantial possessions, are the easy and certain reward of industry and perseverance, would be acceptable.

Emigration is, often, undertaken wnth expectations so vague and preposterous, that, disappointment, if not ruin, is the inevitable consequence. Not more unreasonable were the emigrants of the early history of America, who expected to find streets, paved with gold, because that metal abounds in the mines of Mexico and Peru, than are those individuals of the present day, who, escaping from confinement and poverty in the northern cities of America, or from the slavery and wretchedness of the crowded and oppressed communities of Europe, complain of their disappointments in Texas, because, forsooth, they

do not find in Brazoria and San Felipe, the Philadelphia market and streets lighted with gas. Such persons would do well to ask themselves, in what part of the world, they can get land for nothing ? — where obtain so many enjoyments, with so little labour ? What region combines every good ?

The idle and the vicious, as it happens every where, will be sure to be disappointed in Texas. Like the hero of Milton, such cliaracters carry their discontent with them.

A soil, that yields the fruits of nearly every latitude, almost spontaneously, with a climate of perpetual summer, must, like that of other countries, have a seed-time and a harvest. Though the land be, literally flowing with milk and honey, yet, the cows must be milked, and the honey must be gathered. Houses must be built and enclosures made. The deer must be hunted, and the fish must be caught. From the primeval curse, that, in the sweat of his brow, man shall eat bread, though its severity be mollified, there is no exemption, even here. The emigrant should bear in mind, that in a new community, labour is the most valuable commodity. He sees about him, all tlie means for supplying, not only the necessaries, but also, the comforts and luxuries of life. It is his part, to apply them to his use. He is, abundantly, furnished, with the raw materials; but his hands must mould them into the forms of art.

With a view to emigrant mothers, on whom the comfort of every family, and the general wellbeing of the infant colony, so much depends, it has been thought that, a journal in detail, of one of themselves, would furnish more hints for the judicious arrangements of the voyage and the indispensable attentions to the comfort and economy of an infant establishment, than could be gathered from the more abstract and general views of gentleman travellers. Many trivial circumstances are, therefore, introduced, not with a view to amuse, but to be applied to some useful end. Much incident, calculated to interest the general reader, is not to be expected. But the author having ample means of information, may, without vanity, indulge one hope, as she professes but one aim — utility.

LETTER I. 1 hasten, my dear C , to compl}^ with my

promise of giving you a full and detailed account of my movements during my visit to Texas. I shall first give you an account of my voyage ; you shall then be informed of all I have seen with my own eyes, and of all I have learned from others, respecting this interesting country. I will not promise to be too concise, and you may, perhaps, find, that you have got more than you bargained for. I have seen and heard much that interests me exceedingly, and it is likely, I shall have much to say; I hope you will be patient and hear my story out. Of this you may rest assured, that J will write nothing which I did not either see with my own eyes, or learn from sources which commanded my entire confidence. You may perhaps surmise, that my journey into the province was too short to admit of much incident or observation. As for that matter, I might have travelled farther

and learned less. What useful knowledge was to

2* be gathered by traversing the unbroken wilderness, or gazing upon the boundless prairie? I might have seen more trees, more Indians, and more wild beasts. I consider myself most fortunate, indeed, in having met, so soon after my arrival in the colony, with the very persons, who, doubtless, are more competent, than any other individuals living, to give the information I desired; men who had, personally, inspected the land, in its length and breadth, had explored its rivers, and surveyed its coast; men who were perfectly familiar with its whole history from the beginning, and were the best judges that could be, of its present capabilities, and future prospects. I need not say, that one of these gentlemen, was Col. Austin himself But, I will not anticipate, so, to begin with my voyage.

I took passage, for the Colony, in the schooner Spica, sixty tons, captain D . A larger

vessel would not answer for the navigation of the Brazos, on account of a troublesome bar, at the mouth of the river. I was, therefore, obliged to content myself, with small accommodations. They were, however, neat and comfortable. The cabin, appropriated to the ladies, had but two berths, which had been taken by two of my fellow travellers, one of which had several children. A lodging place, was, therefore, arranged for me, on the transom, far more comfortable, and with a better circulation of air, than the berths afforded. Another lady joined us, afterwards, and our little cabin, as you may well suppose, was completely filled, wiUi ourselves and baggage.

The captain was a Bostonian, polite and agreeable, and what was yet more to the purpose in hand, an excellent seaman. He had been in the India and INlediterranean trade, and in the service of the United States as commander of a Revenue Cutter. He had been recently reformed out of office, as the phrase is. But having known many honest citizens in the same predicament, we were not the more distrustful of him on that account. It was a satisfaction to know that he had seen service, and was a seaman of experience, for our voyage, though short, is, sometimes, not without hazard, on account of the JVorthers;* as they are called. The passengers, though strangers, were respectable, and I promised myself a safe and agreeable trip.

*A troublesome wind on the coast, about which I will tell you something by and by.

I was on board at the time appointed, Tuesday, October 18, at three o'clock. We ^vere to sail at four. All hands were punctual — every thing ready. I took my seat, with the other passengers on deck, engaged in conversation with some friends, while waiting for the tow steamer, to conduct us to the mouth of the Mississippi. Thus occupied, I did not regard the lapse of time, until the sun went down, and no steamer came. My attention was aroused, by a philippic of our captain, against a certain class of people in New Orleans, for their faithlessness, and utter disregard of their engagements. He was, however, extremely moderate, considering the disappointment, inconvenience and delay, we were about to suffer. It was now too late to proceed for this day. The musquetos were troublesome. There was no alternative, but to go on shore: which most of us did, with the utmost good nature, not much displeased, in fact, with the prospect of one more night, of comfortable repose, without rocking. So here is good night to you. We will take a fresh start in the morning. Affectionately, yours.

LETTE R II.

Bolivar, Texas, Dec. 1831.

The next day, at the appointed hour, we were all at our quarters. The captain of the tow-boat sent word, that he would be along for us about sun-set. But, our captain doubtless thinking one good turn deserves another, \vithout giving him notice, made a difierent arrangement, and before that time, we were attached to the smoking sides of the Shark, balanced by another schooner on the opposite side, and under way for sea.

The skies were soft — our spirits buoyant, and under the influence of sanguine hopes, we were willing to consider these little delays, as the most serious, if not the most amusing, of our adventures. We moved smoothly down the current, during a glowing sun-set, succeeded by a full moon, giving a romantic beauty to the luxuriant and cultivated shores.

I had now, an opportunity to notice my fellow travellers. They were all bound, like myself, to the land of promise, on a tour of observation, with reference to a permanent residence. A better assortment of professions and character, for an infant colony, could not have been selected. An editor of a gazette from Michigan — a civil engineer, from Kentucky — a trader from Missouri, with his bride along, and an outfit of dry goods — a genteel good looking widow, on a visit to her son — with a suitable proportion of the working class.

At day -light, the next morning, the tow-boat left us, to pursue our solitary course, in the great gulph, which spread its deep waters before us. We pressed onward, while she tacked about, to offer assistance to a ship and four brigs, which were waiting for an escort to the city we had left.

We stood out for sea, with a gentle breeze from the south-east. Soon we were sensible of the change of motion. We began to find it difficult to preserve our equilibrium, and very shortly, most of us were compelled to yield to- the sickening influence of the sea, our sufferings from this cause, being not a little aggravated by the pitchings and tossings, of so small a vessel. My mattress was spread on deck, for I could not endure the closeness of the cabin. Under other circumstances, what a delightful situation was this for contemplation. The resplendent skyabove, around me, on every side, the sea, ever glorious and beautiful. But, nothing, just then, was capable of inspiring me with sentimental emotions, nothing could counteract the morbid sensations which oppressed both my body and mind. The other ladies and some of the gentlemen, were in the same predicament, making a most poetical group — poetry, after the Hogarth school.

Our progress was rapid. We met no sail, and encountered no adventure. On the evening of the second day we had a gale, sufficiently violent to frighten ladies, but not so much so as to endanger the vessel, the wind blowing off shore. The storm was soon over, leaving a swelling sea. I cannot say that night was the most agreeable I ever passed, being prostrated by sickness, and having eaten nothing for two days. I would advise all who take this voyage, to carry a liberal supply of oranges with them. This fruit is most refreshing to the lips, and has a relish, when every other article of food seems insipid.

The morning of October 22d, was fair and bright, and land to our great joy was announced.

After dinner, the mouth of the Brazos lay before us. It was less than three days, since we parted from the levee, in New Orleans. We cast anchor and sent otF a boat for a pilot, and to take soundings on the bar. The pilot came on board. He is an American, of gentlemanly deportment, and lives at the point of land, formed by the Brazos wnth the gulf Here there is a Mexican garrison, and the tri-colored flag is hoisted, the first signal of our approach to a foreign land. He reported, that in consequence of the high wind, the night before, there were but four feet of water on the bar, that tide, and the Spica, drawing six feet, it would be necessary for us to remain where we were, until the next morning, when he w^ould conduct us over.

We had now leisure to survey our position — to recover our spirits and the use of our feet; to fish and amuse ourselves, and to enjoy the grateful feelings which succeed to moments of suffering and danger.

On our right, in front of their palmetto- roofed, and windowless barracks, the lazy sentinels were "walking their lonely rounds," without excessiv^e martial parade; nor did the unturretted quarters of the commanding officer, show forth much of the blazonry of a Spanish Don. There was no tree, no cultivation. A uniform verdure, alone, indicated the season of the year. Nothing marked civilization, save a fabric for making salt; itself an image of desolation, and the solitary house of the pilot, standing high on piles, serving, at once, for a beacon for the mariner, and a refuge from the storm. The whole appearance of the scene, at the north, with the associations of a northern climate, would be called bleak; but in this latitude, the dark blue sea, when not made terrific by a storm, always suggests agreeable images to the mind, especially that of a refreshing coolness.

We amused ourselves, while lying here, with dissecting some of those curious links, between the vegetable and animal kingdoms, called sunfish. They were large and delicately white and transparent; formed, not unlike a flower of the rose shape, partially expanded, and placed in a saucer. At first view, one is disposed to call it a vegetable; but, on applying the knife, it shrinks and quivers, as from a sensation of pain, especially, the saucer part of it. The saucer, is obviously and beautifully designed by its author,

as a boat for the little mariner. The collapsing, 3 however, is not so violent as that of the sensitive plant, when touched. We spent the evening, not unpleasantly, singing our first vespers in this Catholic land.

Affectionately, yours, &:c.

Letter III

The moment the tide would answer, next day, it was not, however, till after dinner, the pilot was on board. In a few minutes, we were safely over the bar, for it is not wide, but not without some severe rubs and pitches. The tide, always irregular, had not yet recovered from the influence of the storm, nor attained its usual height, though there was no hope of its being higher, that day. This bar presents a serious obstruction to the navigation of the river. Vessels have been, indeed, wrecked, in crossing it, and none but strong vessels, or such as are of light draught, should attempt it. It is to be hoped, and may be, reasonably expected, that, when an extended commerce will justify the expense, this bar will be, in a good measure, removed by the hand of art.

This bar is not peculiar to the Brazos river. Bars are common to all the rivers of this coast. They are formed by the prevalence of the southerly winds, which act in a direction contrary to that of the stream, and by checking and dispersing the current, cause a deposite of the sand, which the water brings with it. •

Vessels arriving after the commencement of the northers, as they are called, which is, generally, about the last of November, are sometimes blown off to sea, for wrecks. When they return to the coast, there is much danger, that the southern breezes, not always gently blowing, may dash them against the bar. The moment of arrival, therefore, is a moment of great anxiety, as well as of joy, and all hands pray for fair weather, and lohistle for favouring gales* We were, therefore, sufficiently happy, as we doubtless had much reason to be piously thankful, when we found ourselves safe, upon the bosom of this beautiful river.

El Brazos de Dios, in Spanish, means: "The

* "Whistle to St. Antonio for a fair wind," is a familiar expression of tlie sailors and boatmen. "Tlie Brazos boat song," adopts this expression.

2S TEXAS.

arms of God." It is on many accounts, a most interesting river, and has one peculiarity which is very remarkable. Its head waters spring in the Comanche country, and consequently, ace but little known. It has the very peculiar feature, in one of its branches, which has no parallel in any part of the world — a salt water river running from the interior towards the sea.

The westernmost branch has its source, in an extensive salt region, not Mr. Jefferson's Salt Mountain^ of which so much was said and sung, at the time of the Louisiana purchase, but a vast plain, of one or two hundred miles, in extent, the land of which, is charged with mineral salt, and on which nitre is deposited by the atmosphere. The rains dissolve this salt. When, in the dry season, the water is evaporated, the salt is deposited, in immense quantities, and the whole plain is covered with chrystalized salt. When, on the other hand the rains are copious, an extensive, shallow, temporary lake is formed, which discharges its briny water into the Brazos, by the Salt Branch, as it is called, its waters, being at times salt enough to pickle pork.

The freshet produced in the Brazos, by the rise of the Salt Branch, renders the whole river, for a while, brackish, and its waters bring with them a fine red clay, as slippery as soap, and as sticky as putty. This clay is deposited, on the shores of the river, and retains its saltness, as does the water its brackish, or slightly saltish, taste, until a freshet produced by the fresh branches, washes it away, or covers it up, when the river becomes fresh and potable, and continues so, until another rise in the salt branch.

We came to, before the door of the pilot's house, which fronts the stream. The officer of the garrison boarded us, to examine our passports; a ceremony, the Mexicans are very tenacious of, from their known jealousy of foreigners. He was a young man, dark and rather handsome, in a neat Mexican uniform, probably his dress-suit; for occasions of so much company, are not of every day occurrence, on this station. He very politely, addressed our captain, in a few words of English, probably, his whole vocabulary; while the latter displayed to best advantage, in reply, his whole stock of Spanish. Saluting us gracefully, as he passed, the business of passports was soon adjusted in the cabin. Ours were spoken of, and inquired about; but with courtly complaisance, and gallant reliance upon a lady's word, he waived the ceremony of examination, and saved us the trouble of searching our trunks for them.

Our sails were now spread to a fair, light breeze, upon the Brazos. We proceeded gaily, with the accession of spirits, our good fortune had inspired, for about four miles. The river, for that distance is deep, but partially obstructed, at one spot, by a sunken vessel. The average width of the Brazos, from its mouth, to Bolivar, is about fifty yards. Its average depth, from three to five fathoms. A slight flaw of wind took us, suddenly, too far towards the left bank; the tide left us, and there we stuck fast. Here we remained another day, wailing for the evening tide. Though impatient to proceed, we made a virtue of necessity, and did not permit the hours to drag heavily upon our hands. The gentlemen went ashore to hunt, and the ladies amused themselves with fishing. Wild fowl of every description, were continually passing over our heads, while ducks, snipe and curlews, were in constant motion, among the high grass of the shore.

The next tide, happily, took us from our moorings and our sports, and soon opened to us, the most beautiful river scenery, I ever beheld: and I have travelled,

" From Mexico to lake Champlain,"

" From Maine to Mississippi sliore."

The alternate woodland and prairie, which make the peculiar beauty of a Texas landscape, cominenced, with small intervals: now the glossy boughs of the one, hanging over the river's brink, and now the rich grass of the other, extending, as far as the eye could reach. Nothing was wanting, but neat white dwellings, to complete the picture. The lawns were as smooth as art could make tliem, and the trees, sometimes in clumps, sometimes in avenues, seemed to display the hand of taste. The sun and the air, seemed brighter and softer, than elsewhere. We were, all enchanted with Texas, and, with one accord exclaimed,