Ten years of my life

Preface

My poor husband published some years ago his 'Diary in Mexico.' I contributed to this work some leaves of mine, promising to publish moi\j whenever I should find leisure. Encouraged by many friends and the kind manner in which the above-mentioned fragment was received, I shall cany out my promise now.

World-stirrmg events have taken place since 1868. History has turned another leaf in her eternal book. The French period has come to a close, and the German era has commenced. The old German Empire has risen, like the phoenix from its ashes, m richer glory than ever before, and from its radia it throne a fresh and wholesome current is sweeping over our globe. Much antiquat'^d dust has been kicked up ; time-honoured prejudices and generally admitte^^ principles are fluttering in the air ; old people look at them regre >r^'y and bewildered, prophesying the end of ail things and howling a Miserere, whilst the young generation rejoice, full of hope, and breathe wi'h delight the spring air of rational liberty. The genius of the age looks smi.'ngly fiom i's sunny height upon flying superstition, carrying tyranry on its back.

Though it seems to be a law of nature that even the most beneficial poliiical or social changes must be ushered in finit with blood:.hed and tears, it is al.-o natuiü.1 that the feelings of those who saw flow the hearts' blood of their fathers, husbands, or sons, and who with their t^ars and ruined liv_s in reality paid and still pay alone for the national hopes bought by such sacrifice.--, are not quite in harmony with the feelings of the great majority.

Though well aware that the late cruel war made, alas, too many sufferers hke myself, and that our grief is felt like a dissonance in the general concert of rejoicing, who is cruel enough to blame a poor woman becau^e she moun-.s her li'de flowr-gardin changed by that storm into a wilder ness ? Who is unjuit enough to accuse her of selfishness, or want of pitriol'im, or narrowne^is of mind, if she cannot suppress a shudder on healing the marches of triumph or the rejoicings of the crowd? Alas I in my ear is still resounding the din and roar of battles, ahd in my hean are still lingering the cries of the wounded and the heartrending whispered woids of the dying, sending their last greetings and blessings to their bereaved mothers, wives, or children. And above all, before my mental eye is still a maddening vision — the gory body of a dear, kind husband.

Yes, yes ; I know he died a most glorious death for his beloved king and the independence and glory of his dear Germany, and his remains are enshrined in a princely tomb, — but alas, he is dead, dead, gone forever, — and I have only a poor weak woman's heart.

vi Preface.

Indulgent readers, I am sure, will forgive me if now and then a melancholy or bitter tone vibrates through the following pages ; bat I am less sure of being forgiven by another class of readers, who, on the contrary, will be indignant and accuse me of want of feeling, or of levity, because I am not^akvays melancholy.

As I am afraid that amongst them might be persons whose opinion is of very great value to me, I shall say a few words in self-defence.

Those who have never experienced great losses or troubles, and know grief as it were theoretically, who are living quiet and happy under the protection of a kind and beloved husband, surrounded by a crowd of healthy children, often imagine that they could not survive the loss of one of their beloved, or at least never smile or feel happy again. That is an error. The Almighty, who tempers the wind to the shorn lamb, has ordered time and reason to blunt the edge of grief ; the desire or attempt to perpetuate it is unreasonable and sinful and not worthy of a soundminded person. I consider it to be a duty towards myself and the world, in which I may. have to live still many years, to try my best to conquer this morbid inclination, and if I succeed partially in doing so it would be hard and unjust to accuse me of levity, for that I am not devoid of feeling may be proved by the fact that my hair has become grey since then, — and I have scarcely passed my thirtieth year.

In writing the following pages it is not my intention to write my biography. I shall only relate what I have seen and observed since 1862, the year in which I was married to Prince Felix zu Salm-Salm. This time of ten years is one of the most memorable in history, including the great American civil war, the catastrophe in Mexico, and the fall of the Napoleonic empire. During the American war I was almost always with my husband ; 1 followed him also to Mexico, and was not only a mere spectator in the great and sad tragedy enacted there. During the last French war I was with the army from the commencement to the end, and afterwards I visited Rome and Spain. Everywhere my position enabled me to become acquainted with the leading persons, and to be an eyewitness of the most important events. It may therefore be supposed that I have something to tell. Supported by a very good memory and a carefully and regularly kept diary, I shall try my best to make my account as interesting as possible, and if my hook may be insignificant as a literary production, 1 hope it will not tire the patience of the reader.

Agnes zu Salm- Salm.

Boon on-the-Rhine.

Contents

IN THE UNITED STATES,

Chapter I

Some Words to the Reader — The War Excitement in the United States— The faUing and the rising Military Stars — McClellan Commander-in- Chief — Organizing the Army — His First Review — Visit to Washington —Visiting the Camp — General Louis Blenker — German Refugees — Prince Felix zu Salm- Salm — What happened to him and to me — The old, old Story — End of the chapter, and turning a new leaf. . Page 19

CHAPTER n.

Who governs the United States ? — How it is done — Trying my wings — Senator Harris — Albany — Governor Morgan, the woman hater — My first battle— Victory— Salm, Colonel of the 8th N. Y. Regiment- Arrival in Aldy — Breaking up a camp — Ride to Chantilly — The country-seat of a Royal Stuart 31

CHAPTER HI.

Returning to Washington — Bumside's defeat at Fredericksburg — Returning to the camp — Our birthday — How the soldiers celebrated it — A curious birthday cake — Aquaia Creek — Our canvas palace — General Hooker commanding the Potomac army — Our factotum, old Groeben — General Sickles — His sumptuous festival — How Uncle Sam cared for his soldiers — Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln visiting the camp — The President's wife — Portrait of President Lincoln — Salm's regiment mustered out — Returning Home — Reception in Washington — In New York — A festival in Hamilton Park — Salm presented with a sword of honour — A soldier's ball — I must attempt a speech — Turning another leaf. 37 viii Contents.

CHAPTER IV

Our New York life — In a Methodist's house — Salm, Colonel of the 6Sth Regiment N.Y.V. — In paj-tiöus — Recruiting difficulties — Salm authorised to raise a brigade — His and Corvin's recruiting plan favoured by Secretary of State, W. H. Seward — An audience with President Lincoln —Secretaiy of War Stanton opposing — A visit to Blenker's farm — The battle of Chancellorville — Defeat of Hooker — Superseded by General Meade — The glorious battle of Gettysburg — General Sickles severely wounded — The New York Riots — Mrs. Bennett — Mr. James Gordon Bennett — His Son — Fort Washington — The first appearance of Master Jimmy — Mrs. James Speier — The Spiritualist Excitement — Mrs. Anna Sugdon, a pretty knocking, and Mrs. Heath Adams, a writmg medium — Spiritual seances at my house — Ai Mrs. Bennett's — The flying music-book — At Mrs Speier's — A table knocked off its legs — A detected tipping medium — Bad state of affairs — I go out recruiting to Washington. . . • • . Page 48

CHAPTER V.

The Provost-Marshal-General U. S., General James Fry — My success — Governor Yates, of Illinois — Lovers of spirits among high-spirited gentlemen — I become a captain, commanding a company — Life in Washington- -Madame von Corvin — Sanitary arrangements in the United States — The Sanitary and Christian Commissions — How the Government honoured dead soldiers — National cemeteries — A hospital city — Salm again on the war-path — My journey to Nashville, Tenn. — Returning to Washington. ...... 65

CHAPTER VI.

Madame von Corvin and I travel from Washington to Bridgeport, Alabama— American railroads — Pittsburg — Meeting Charles Schurz — How he was received there — Louisville, Kentucky — Nashville, Tenn. — The St. Cloud Hotel — Travelling with a military train — Why I stop the train —Arrival in Bridgeport — The camp on the Tennessee island — The hospital — Traffic with the rebels — Salt serving instead of money — Neighbours — Expecting a rebel surprise — Bridgeport — Colonel Taylor — Rev. Gilford and family — Dangerous roads — Fort Prince Salm — Life on the island — Excursion to Chattanooga — Major- General J. Steedman — The Match-bridge at Whiteside — Lookout Mountain — Fighting Joe's rock — The rebels advancing — Salm leaving the island alone — Cut off from Nashville by General Hood — How we passed our time — Visits received and paid — Generals Brannon and Granger — Rather dangerous — Pleasure trips to Stevenson — Victories — The 68ih Regiment leaving the island — The deserted camp — Dangerous position — Nightly disturbances — Meeting Salm and Steedman

Contents. ix

in Stevenson after the victorious battles — Christmas in Alabama — We leave all for Nashville — Colonel and Madame von Corvin return to Washington, and I go with Salm to Bridgeport —He is commander of the post — His raids against the rebels — His staff — Captain Johnson and his v^^ife, my sister, arrive — Difficulties in reference to promotion— To remove these I am sent to Washington. . . Page 78

CHAPTER VII.

On board the ' General Lyttle ' — In Washington — Up-hill work — Senator Yates — Go with Groeben to New York — Governor Fenton — Governor Gilmore of New Hampshire — Return to Washington — Victory — Receive the General's commission for Salm — Living at Corvin's in Georgetown — Short sketch of war events — Characteristic of General Grant — The assassination of Lincoln — Attempt against Secretary Seward — Impression made by that catastrophe — The Funeral — Andrew Johnson, the new President — Mr. Field, Assistant Secretary of the Treasury — Returning to the war — Felix in Dalton, Georgia — Arrival in Chattanooga — No trains — Get a locomotive — Riding on the cow-catcher — A journey from Dalton to Cleveland — A fearful night in the woods — Dangers of railway travelling — A narrow escape — I get a baby of my sister's — Starting for Atlanta, Georgia — State of the country — Our life in Atlanta — Leaving for Savannah — Fort Pulaski — An excursion to Augusta — Dangers of the Savannah rivers — Our steamer, the ' Fanny Lehr,' running on a snag — Sticking in the mud — The alligators — Assistance arriving — Continue our journey — Coming up with the ' Robert Lehr,' which strikes a snag and goes down — Returning to Savannah — End of the war — Going via Baltimore to Washington — Living in Georgetown at Corvin's — Forming new plans — Salm resolves to go to Mexico — Groeben is to go with him — I remain in Washington — Take a house in that city together with the Corvins — Our life — Excui-sions — Colonel Moore — Leaving for Mexico — Good-bye to President Johnson — On board the ' Manhattan ' — Father Fisher — Arrival in Havannah — Surprise — Meeting Salm — Arrival in Vera Cruz , ioq

MEXICO

CHAPTER VIII.

Vera Cruz— Great graveyard — A Mexican diligence — Robbing the diligence — A gentlemanly sport — Paper dresses — Terra Templada — ' Get out if you can' — Pulque — In an Indian hut— Orizava — Puebla — The plateau of Mexico — General Zerman — Baron Magnus. . 125

Contents.

CHAPTER IX.

Origin of the City of Mexico — The Alameda — The Paseo Nuevo- A Mexican gentleman on horseback — Promenade de la Viga — The floating islands — Theatres — Place d' Armes — The Cathedral — The Sangrario — Disputacion Iturbide — Aqueducts — The National Museum — The Sanctuario de Guadalupe — Its wonderful origin — The Creole Virgin — Chapultepec — Humming-birds — Mexican houses and life — Mexican ladies — The Indians — A Ranchero — Mexican market. . Page 135

CHAPTER X.

Marshal Bazaine — Madame la Mar^chale — Princess Iturbide — Tacubaya — San Augustin — A projected important mission — How it ended — We go on an expedition — Meeting the enemy — Result — Arrival in Tulancingo — Order to evacuate — ^Jimmy — Carabajal, the robber-general — March to Puebla — Meeting the Emperor Maximilian — The ' woman in white' — I fall ill— General panic — Returning to Mexico — The family Hube — Departure of the French — The Emperor leaving for Queretaro — Salm going after him — I am left behind — General Marquez — General Vidaurri — Good news — The battle of San Lorenzo — Marquez a coward — Poriirio Diaz before Mexico. . . »157

CHAPTER XI.

Fearful dreams — My escape from Tacubaya — Going to Mexico — Colonel Leon — My propositions to the German Colonels — Negotiations — Madame Baz — A sad mistake rewarded by a bullet — At the headquarters of Porfirio Diaz — Mr. Hube my interpreter — Return to Mexico — Two volleys fired at me — No harm done — A thunderstorm as a peace- maker — Baron Magnus retains me in Mexico — What resulted from it — Confusion in Tacubaya — A kind invitation to go to Jericho, or elsewhere beyond the sea — Will not go — Female generalship against Mexican strategy — General Baz — Permission to go to Escobedo — Thirty-seven letters of recommendation — My journey to Queretaro — Mexican justice. 174

CHAPTER XII.

Arrival before Queretaro — Visit to Escobedo's head-quarters — One who had 'known me intimately' — ^Journey to San Luis Potosi — Lieut.- Colonel Aspirez — An audience with President Juarez — M. Iglesia — The fall of Queretaro — The Emperor and my husband prisoners — Journey to Queretaro — San Teresita — My first interview with the Emperor — His prison — I arrange a meeting between the Emperor and

Contents. xi

General Escobedo— What happened in the Hacienda de Hercules- General Refugio Gonzales a Marplot— The convent of the Capuchins— The Emperor forced to remain in a grave vault— Colonel Villanueva.

Page I 86

CHAPTER XIII.

My plans to save the Emperor— What Consul Bahnsen thought of them — Visit to the Emperor at midnight— A letter to Juarez— Politeness of Escobedo— Preparing to go to San Luis— Consul Bahnsen's fear justified—His sleeping partner— Another audience with Juarez— My pleading for delay -Mr. Iglesia on my side— Victory— Return to Queretaro— A wide-awake partner of Mr. Bahnsen— A fearful journey— How I looked— Scene on my arrival in Maximilian's prison described by another eye-witness '94

CHAPTER XIV.

My husband's plans for escape— I do not believe in them— I oflfer to go to Mexico to fetch Baron Magnus, lawyers, and money— Delays— How I managed Escobedo— A telegram makes my journey superfluous- Consul Bahnsen again in a fright— Judge Hall— Arrival of the Foreign Ministers in Queretaro — Impression made by it— Baron Magnus —Money no object— The Austrian and Belgian Ministers— Mr. Curtopassi— My plan to save the Emperor— Money wanted— Baron Magnus gone to St. IaiIs- Colonel Villaneuva— Colonel Palacios— How I tempt him— Two bills for one hundred thousand dollars each, but no cash— Baron Lago in deadly fear for his neck— His cowardice 200

CHAPTER XV.

Dr. Basch arrested on leaving my house — General Escobedo wishes to see me — A grand scene — A furious General and a resolute woman — What Escobedo thought of the great Ministers— The carriage with four mules at my door— How I frighten a little captain— Negotiations — Getting in the carriage— How I got out of it — Villanueva - I am brought to Santa Rosas — Go from there to San Luis— Lenience of Mexican Generals against attempts to escape — Reasons for it— How I was received by Mr. Juarez and Mr. Iglesia — Respite of three days — What Baron Magnus might have done if he had been somebody else — My last pleading for the Emperor's life — ^Jaurez will only grant that of my husband — Madame de Miramon's audience with the President— Death of the Emperor — Mr. Lerdo — Return to Queretaro — Go to Mexico — Again to Queretaro — Salm's prison life — A roguish doctor — Transportation of the prisoners to Mexico — To Vera Cruz — My husband in Tehuacan— How he was treated by Porfiiio Diaz and General Baz— Exertions for the release of the Prince — Success On my arrival in Vera Cruz, Salm had left with Baron Magnus— My despair — Going to New York and Washington— On board the ' Ville de Paris' — Anival in Euiope. , 2i6 xii Contents.

IN EUROPE.

CHAPTER XVI. »

Biest— First impressions — A four-legged baby — Paiis — Castle Anholt— Prince Alfred — His family — Our position — ^Journey to Vienna — Audience with the Emperor of Austria— Result — Salm in the hands of his old enemies — Flight — My audience with the mother of Maximilian— Hf;r present — Munich — Countess Salm-Hoegstraeten — Return to Westphalia — Princess Minna — Prince Alfred dangerously ill — Rheingrafenstein — von Stein— Meeting with Corvins in Rorschach — Castle Wiggen — The Rorschach HiJl — The Lake of Constance — Mrs. Raggebas — Visitors — A visit to Combe Varin — Professor Edward Desor — Baron H. and wife — A Russian Baron and his daughter — Prince Hohenzollern — At the Weinburg — Oif to Berlin.

CHAPTER XVII. .

Salm's Diary in Mexico published — Prince Kraflffc Hohen'ohe — Baron ISragnus — Audience with Princess Charles of Prussia — Countess Seydcwitz — At Baroness Schleinitz's — Salm Major in the Guards — Audience with Her Majesty the Queen — Countess Schulemburg — Countess Benckendorff — Fast habits — Coblentz — Society there — The Prussian army — Prussian officers — The regiment * Queen Augusta.' . 251

CHAPTER XVIII.

Our society — Countess Haake — In Berlin with the Corvins — Another audience with the Queen — The King — A queer cousin — Prince Salm- Horstmar — A princely apostle — Housekeeping lessons — Mr. General von S . — Salm's revolt — I try my hand at match-making — Excursions— Mr. Moriary — Princess S W and her sons — Mesalliances— A poetical friend — Coblentz life — Public tea-gardens — The Queen in Coblentz — Princess Liegnitz — 'Uncle Herrmann' — The Grand Duchess Dowager of Mecklenburg — in Ems — Their Majesties The Queen as a godmother — Baron Gerolt — Why he resigned — Mr. Bancroft — His meanness — In Ems with his Majesty — My cousin, the Duchess of Osuna — Breakfast with their Majesties at Sayn — Military manoeuvres — Visit to Anholt — Prince and Princess of Weid — A party at her Majesty's — Grand Duchess of Baden and Princess William — A ball at her Majesty's — I dance with the Grand Duke of Weimar — Breakfast at her Majesty's- -Dinner at Neuweid — Prince and Princess of Roumania — The Count of Flanders — Departure of the Queen — Christmas in Anholt — A battue — Bitter reflections. . . . aö"?

Contents. xiii

CHAPTER XIX.

New Yeai- — The Mittle bills' — In a whirlpool — Our new Colonel, Count Waldersee — In Berlin — An evening party at her Majesty's — The brother of jMaximilian — Audience with their Royal Highnesses the Crown Prince and Crown Princess — Their great kindness — Grand Court-day — I conquer China — Baroness Schleinitz— Grand Opera Ball — The whole Court present — Carnival in Coblentz — Balls —

Fancy Ball at Mr. von C 's — A Spanish Quadrille — Fancy Ball

at General von Herwarth's — A fishy Quadrille — Mayence — Prince of Holstein — Bonn — Professor Dr. Busch — ist of April — Studying in the Hospitals — Salm promoted — Sad forebodings — Return of the Queen to Coblentz — Season in Ems — The Duke of Ossuna— His Majesty the Emperor of Russia — Princess Rose Salm- Salm — An unpleasant occurrence— At Prince Solms-Braunfels — Thirteen at the table ! — Our set in Ems — With his Majesty — The Duchess of Ossuna and her train — Prince Albrecht of Prussia — Brilliant misery — Again in Bonn — Rumours in Ems — Supper with the King — A Review in Ems — Dinner at her Majesty's in Coblentz — A caf^-dansant — Caught in a shower — Arrival in Ems — The King and Benedetti — Sensation — Supper with his Majesty — How the King looked — I tell his Majesty that I shall go with the army — Concert at the Swiss house in Coblentz — How the King and Queen were received — War declared — Taking leave of his Majesty — Affecting scene — The King gives me his photograph — Panic in Ems — Return to Coblentz — The behaviour of the Germans — Leave-taking of the Queen — Approval of my resolution — In Bonn — I receive a certificate from Professor Dr. Busch — In the Aula • — Prolessor Dr, Busch appointed Surgeon-General of 8th Army Corps — I am to accompany him — Arrival of Colonel Corvin — Of Mrs. von Corvin — Of Princess Minna and Florentine Salm — Preparations — Dark forebodings — A conversation between Salm and Corvin — The regiment ' Queen Augusta ' leaving — Farewell to Salm — A sad mother and. sad wife. Page 214

CHAPTER XX.

My preparations for the field — Miss Louisa Runkel — Leave-taking in Anholt — Prince Alfred and three sons in the war — Difficulties about a horse — I try impossibilities — Make them possible — With General von Steinmetz, chief of the first army — En route — My defeat — Hermeskeil — Treves — Disappointment — Saarlouis — Imprudent ducks — Hensweiler — Gloious news — In a brewery — Prince Adalbert of Prussia — An Admiral on dry land — The distant thunder — Of Spichem— Saarbruck ■ — Meeting Corvin — Entering on my duties — The starving French prisoners — Confusion — The battle-field — Arrival of the King A raid on the Royal kitchen — Carrying off my booty — Caught by his Majesty — My confusion — In the Hospitals — The iSth of August — Fearful dreams — Vague rumours — Starting for the front — Felix killed— xiv Conienis.

Plcientine killed — How my husband died — letter of Rev. Mr. Parmet — Letter of Salm's sei-vant — My vow — Going on a sad errand — A fearful night in Remilly — Ars sur-Moselle — A melancholy task —

* Mother Simon ' — How I found my poor husband — Bringing home the bodies — Funeral in Anholt — Last words of love. . Page 306

CHAPTER XXI.

Returning to the war— In Cologne — The Knights of St. John — Baron Edward Oppenheim — In Jouy-aux-Arches — Voluntary nurses — Reforms— Gifts from Cologne — My store-rooms — Prince Alfred — Miss Runkel — Shells— Surrender Metz — Theft — Bad conscience — A rude doctor — A princely box on the ear 325

CHAPTER XXII.

Marching orders — Death of Count Waldersee — On the march — Lost on the road — Brabant — In search of quarters — In a shepherd's house — How we passed the night — A wonderful snoratorio — Vienne le Chateau — An ecclesiastical cat — In Rheims — Ville aux Bois Jouchery — A Frenchified German — Madame la Baronne de Sachs. Attichy — A

* particulier ' — Compiegne — The rooms of Empress Eugenie — Montidier — The 'terrible' things — Battle of Moreuil — Fog — Strange mistake— Miss Runkel taken for a * Protzkasten ' — ^Jimmy — My pigeon — After the battle — General von Kummer — Amiens — In Boves — Colonel Cox — The international commission — Starting for Rouen — La Feuilie — A sacked chateau — In Rouen — Dangerous looking people — Visit to General von Manteuffel — Leaving Rouen — Le Heron — Order to prepare for battle — The battle of Querriere — Our Verbandplatz— The room for the fatally wounded — Short of provisions — Fed by the English — My assistance —Under fire — Dangerous curiosity — Rev. Mr. Gross wounded — End of the battle — Supper on the amputation table — Returning to Amiens — A busy night — Miss Runkel's Samaritan work — My birthday — Count Luttichau and Captain Voelkel — Telegraphing for their wives — Captain Voekel's death — Arrival • f his wife — General von Blankensee~His wife — His death — In Albert — Captain von Marien — Bapaume — General Count von der Goeben — A distracted cook — The wounded — Captain von Butler —Dead — Hospital in the convent — I discover an old acquaintance — And make the acquaintance of the black small-pox — Returning to Amiens — Arrival of officers' wives — I fall ill with the small-pox — Marching orders — Four days in bed only — In Peronne — General von Memerty — My prophetic talents — Three hundred wounded and nothing to eat — Again our English friends — Prince Alfred's exertions — Miss Runkel's exhaustion — jimmy catching a Tartar — The glorious battle of St. Quentin — Shoes and stockings left in the mud — In St. Quentin — The Hotel Cambronne — Adoctorless private hospital — Miss Runkel's glory — My "ive hundred boarders — Howl managed for them — Aimistice — Going home — Acknowledgments — General von Manteuffel proposing me for

Contents. x-v

the iron cross — Thanks in the name of the ist army by letter of General von Goeben — Letter of General von Fransecky. . Pa^e 335

CHAPTER XXIII.

% Going to Germany — In Anholt — My husband's debts — Different views- Returning to my deserted home — Sympathisers — Pestered to death— A last appeal to a brother — A princely answer — What I resolved to do — Baron Edward Oppenheim— Going to Berlin — A private audience with his Majesty the Emperor — What happened in it — Geneial von Treskow — My offer accepted — Audience with my gracious Empress — Moving to the Augusta hospital — Noble nurses — Visit of Emperor and Empress — A present from Her Majesty — Lost — Called home — Moving to Bonn — Persecutions — A forged signature — Law suit — My health failing — In Luzern — Going to Clarence — To Pisa — To Naples — Eruption of Mount Vesuvius — I want to see it very near — ^Jimmy's distress — Pompeii 362

CHAPTER XXIV.

! want to enter a convent — Applying to the Empress — Letter of Count

Annin — A card from Baron S to the German minister in Rome —

In Rome — Count Brazier de St. Simon — His portrait — His mixtum compositum wme — His hobby-horse — I make an impression on the old diplomatist — Effects— Seeing San Angelo — The Prison of Benvenuto Cellini — Causing the death of the old Count — Monsignore Merode — Two audiences with the Pope — Declares that I have no talent for a nunnery — Private .Tiass by Monsignore Merode at the grave of San Pietro — Presents trom the Pope — A once celebrated lady and pretended princess — Rcv„ Joseph Mulloly — The Church oi St. Clement and its subterranean wonders — What called me home — Invitation to Rostock in Mecklenburg — In Warnemunde — Grand Duke and Grand Duchess 01 Mecklenburg- -The ' Stromlahrt ' — Festival — Curious Waritire — Called home again — Bad health — In Scheveningen — An American gold uncle — Change oi affairs — I buy a house in Bonn — Have rented it to Baron Gerolt — ^Journey to Spain — Madrid —

Count W A river without water — The palace ot the Duke of

Ossuna — Invested by the Philistines — The picture gallery — The Armoury— Curious armour, &c. — The Theatres — A characteristic adventure — In the Prado — Duchess de la Torre — Serrano — Queen Isabella — Victor Amadeus — The attentate — Disturbed state — Returning to Bonn — A few last words — End of the book, , , . , . 373