The story of my life

Front matter

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Book No. : ACCESSION

Chapter I

(1877-1880.) -THE GOVERNMENT OF BOMBAY, PAGE Arrival at Parell the Government House Bombay—Departure of Sir

Philip Wodehouse—Residence at Malabar Point—First visit to Sind —Return to Bombay—Railway tour to Kattywar—Resort to Poona— House at Ganeshkind—Relief of Famine—Lord Lytton’s visit— Plans for material improvement Deccan—Presentation at Bombay of address from Bengal—Second visit to Sind—Visit to Lord Lytton at Calcutta—Oodeypore in Rajputana—Bombay docks—Address to University of Bombay—Opening of new railway in Deccan—Despatch of Troops to Malta—Preservation of Forests—Bombay waterworks— -Plague of rats in Deccan—Third visit to Sind vié Goojerat—Distinguished visitors to Bombay—The High Court—The Volunteers— Inspection of Canara forests—Acceptance of offer to stand as candidate for Parliament av 2s ans ae Eee oe oA ct 1

Chapter II. (1878-1880.)-work On Afghan Frontier And Departure From India

Lord Lytton’s policy—War undertaken against Amir Shere Ali—Am directed to supervise transport and supply between Indus and Southern Afghanistan—Proceed via Sind to Sibi—Meet Sir Robert Sandeman—Inspect Bolan Pass—Return to Bombay—News of destruction of British Mission at Caubul—Am directed to cause railway to be constructed from Indus to Sibi—Proceed thither— Meet Sir Robert Sandeman—Am directed to extend the railway to Pishin on Candahar border—Visit Quetta and Pishin—Ride to Candahar and back—Railway line from Pishin to Sibi—Progress of railway in the desert—Return to Bombay—Revert to Sind to arrange for extending railway to Candahar—Farewell to Kurrachi— Return again to Bombay—Preparations for final departure—News from England of General Election—Departure hastened—Parting scenes ... ae ies oe ase eee aon an has joa

Chapter III. Traits In The Native Indian Character

Style of Native conversation—Picturesque wit—Natural eloquence— Plausibility—Insinuation and flattery—Question of eratitude— vill

My

Contents

Fidelity of Native domestic servants—National adherence to custom —Yet many tendencies to change—Western knowledge—Eastern religious beliefs—Question of integrity—Domestic virtues—Filial relations—Courage in face of death—Question of loyalty

Chapter IV. (1848-1880.) Retrospect Of India In My Generation

generation, 1848 to 1880—Additions of territory—Neighbourhood of Russia and of France—Proclamation of Empire of India—The Native States—Legislative Councils—High Courts of Judicature— Imperial Civil Service—Mutinies in Native Army—Military re-arrangement—The Indian Navy—Railways and Electric Telegraph —Canals for Ivrigation—Famine relief—Property in Land—Public health and sanitation—Public Instruction and State Education— Their effect on Hinduism—Christian Missions—Native vernacular press—Character borne by Native officials—Census of the population —Commercial progress—Revenue and National Debt—European Society’... Frat we als fa coe ane

Chapter V. (1880-86.) Life In England

Arrival in London from India March 1880—The General Election—

Proceed to Worcestershire—Defeated in election—Revert to London —Write book ‘India in 1880”—Make speeches Birmingham and Manchester—Residence at Hampstead—Write book ‘Men and events of my time in India”—Varied literary work—My “ Oriental Experience’? and “Cosmopolitan Essays’’—Memoirs of John Lawrence and James Thomason—Addresses to various societies—Honours trom Universities Oxford and Cambridge—Move in London society— Travel in Scotland—Negotiations with various constituencies— Resume candidature for Worcestershire—The Evesham Division— Electoral campaign—Elected Member December 1885...

Chapter VI. (1882-1883.)—-travels In Eastern Europe

Journey to Constantinople—Seraskier Tower—Scutari—San Stefano—

Galata Tower—Prince’s Islands—Broussa—Turks and Turkish government—Across Black Sea to Russia—Odessa—Kieff—The Jews —Moscow—Kremlin—Political tendencies—Nijni Novgorod—St. Petersburg—Esthonia—Warsaw—Return to England—Voyage to Palestine—Jaffa to Jerusalem—Jordan and Jericho—Bethel and Shechem—Samaria—Nazareth and Tiberias—Tyre and Sidon— Beyrout and Baalbec—Benefit of Travel in Holy Land—Sacred scenery Ses oa ae ae ce oe oe

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CONTENTS. ix

Chapter VII. (1882-1894.) -travels In Europe

PAGE Health resorts in Continent of Europe—Remarkable churches—Component parts of Poland—Dolomite mountains—Pyrenees—Riviera—German literature—Bohemia—My oil-pictures—Sweden—Stockholm and Upsala—Norway—North Cape midnight—Coast and islands—Norwegian lyric poetry—Spain—Picture Gallery, Madrid—Chapel of Escurial—Seville—Alhambra—Bridge at Ronda—Portugal—Cintra and the Tagus—Return to Madrid—Royal festivities—Spanish literature—Saragossa and Barcelona—Greece—Salonica—General election in Greece—Gulf of Corinth—Parnassus—Olympus—Moonlight at Thermopyle, Sunium, and Acropolis... des a = ose LS

Chapter VIII. (1882-1884..-two Visits To Canada

First visit to Canada 1882—Mouth of the St. Lawrence—Quebec—River voyage to Montreal—Visit to Sir John A. Macdonald at Ottawa— Second visit to Canada, 1884—Voyage to New York—Meeting of British Association at Montreal—My Presidency of Economic Science Section—Ball given by Sir Donald Smith—Our journey to Toronto— Excursion to Rocky Mountains—My Chairmanship of Excursionists— Hospitality of Canadian Pacific Railway Company—Across great Prairie—Snow-topped chain of Rocky Mountains—Enter British Columbia—Re-cross North-West Prairie—Arrive at Winnipeg—My address to citizens there 143

Chapter IX. (1882.)—first Visit To The United States

Approach United States from Montreal—Boston—Newport, Rhode Island— First visit to New York—Voyage up the Hudson to Albany—To Falls of Niagara—To Chicago—To Omaha—To Kansas City—St. Louis on the Mississippi—Cincinnati—Columbus in Ohio—Washington—Richmond, Virginia—Back to Washington—Baltimore—Philadelphia— Second visit to New York—Mr. John Jacob Astor—Second visit to Boston—Return to New York—American characteristics—Voyage homewards—Queenstown, Ireland-—Killarney—Return to England... 160

Chapter X. (1884. -second Visit To The United States

New York—Mr. Pyne’s Villa—President Arthur—Newport, Rhode Island —Mr. Thayer—Boston—Thence to Dakota via Canada—Yellowstone Park—Geyser Valley—Prairie of Idaho—Salt Lake City—San Francisco —Monterey—Yosemité Valley—The “ Big Trees ””—Mr. Consul x CONTENTS.

PAGE Stanley—Central Prairie to Colorado Springs—Denver—Presidential election—Political meetings Peoria—Chicago—Pullman town—Pittsburgh—Altoona—Philadelphia—New York—Banquet to Mr. Blaine —Union League Club, Republican—Manhattan Club, Democratic— Processions before Mr, Blaine and Mr. Cleveland—Election day 4th November— Recount Votes in New York State—Mr. Cleveland at Albany—Smith College—Mr. John Welsh at Philadelphia—Return New York—General Ulysses Grant—Voyage homewards—Ireland—

Limerick and Galway—Return to England 181

Chapter XI. (1884-1894.)—school Board For London

I become Member of the Board in 1884—General Election of the Board for London in 1885—Am elected for the City of London—Become financial Member of the Board—Budgets in 1886, and in succeeding years—The Economical Party—Fresh election for London in 1888— Am re-elected for the City—Growth of expenditure— Further election for London in 1891—Am elected for City of London for third time— Religious instruction—Resign my seat Easter 1894—Conduct and policy of the Board—Merits and demerits—Educational results me 2G

Chapter XII. (1886.)—parliament In 1886

First entrance to Commons—Speech by the Queen in Lords—My Parliamentary Journal—Maiden Speech—Defeat of Conservative Ministry —Mr. Gladstone’s Liberal Government—Home Rule Bill—Great debate Second Reading—Liberal Unionist Party—Bill rejected on decisive Division—Dissolution of Parliament and General Election —

My election at Evesham—House meets under Conservative Government—Prorogation in Autumn—My position and duty in the Commons ... ah oer eee 390 ie ess 3 eco

Chapter XIII, Parliament From 1887 To 1892

House meets January 1887—Conservative policy—Lord Randolph Churchill and Mr. W. H. Smith—Sir Michael Hicks-Beach and Mr, Balfour—Rules of Procedure—All-night sittings—Irish Crimes Bill— Irish Land Bill—Opening Session 1888—Hours of Business—Conversion National Debt—Local Government Bill for England—Parnell Commission—Autumn Sitting—Session 1889—Scotch Local Government and Universities—Session 1890—Mr. Goschen’s Budget— Licensing clauses—Mr. Balfour’s success in Ireland—Imperial arrangements Africa—Session in November—Re-assembling 1891— Tithes Bill and Irish Land Purchase Bill—Free Education—Death of

CONTENTS. x1

PAGE

Mr. W. H. Smith—Session 1892—Mr. Balfour leader—Irish Local Government Bill—Agricultural Small Holdings Bill—Dissolution of Parliament ... a ae Pee oes ee nad = Pe oi

Chapter XIV. (1887-1892.)-life In The Commons

Jubilee of the Queen’s reign—Service in St. Margaret’s Church—Scene in Westminster Abbey—Character of House 1887 to 1892—Opposition and Obstruction—Work with “the Old Guard ”—Attendance in Divisions—Nocturnal sittings and morning walks—Drives from Westminster to Hampstead—Routine of labour—Service on Committees—Educational work—Superannuation of Teachers—Hartington Commission—Party meetings at the Carlton Club—Parliamentary comrades—Guests in precincts of House—Hours of business—Resign seat Worcestershire—Accept candidature Kingston division of Surrey .., 266

Chapter XV. (1892-1896.) Parliament From 1892 To 1895, And Conclusion

My election Kingston—Meeting of House August 1892—Defeat of Conservative Ministry—Mr. Gladstone succeeds—Session 1893—Home Rule Ireland Bill passed through Commons by “ guillotine ” process —Rejected in Lords—Autumn sitting for District and Parish Councils Bill—Protracted into 1894—New Session in March—Resignation of Mr. Gladstone—Sir William Harcourt leader—New Death Duties— Trish Tenants Bill in Commons—Rejected in Lords—Session 1895— Bill relating to Church in Wales—Ammunition for Army—Resignation of Lord Rosebery’s Ministry—Unionist Ministry under Lord Salisbury—Dissolution of Parliament—I resign my seat—Privy Council—Royal Society... ie oe st ‘iy a Nee eA:

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THE STORY OF MY LIFE

Chapter I. (1877-1880).-the Government Of Bombay

Arrival at Parell, the Government House, Bombay—Departure of Sir Philip Wodehouse—Residence at Malabar Point—First visit to Sind—Return to Bombay—Railway tour to Kattywar—Resort to Poona—House at Ganeshkind—Relief of Famine—Lord Lytton’s visit—Plans for material improvement, Deccan—Presentation at Bombay of Address from Bengal—Second visit to Sind—Visit to Lord Lytton at Calcutta—Oodeypore in Rajputana— Bombay docks—Address to University of Bombay—Opening of new railway in Deccan—Despatch of troops to Malta—Preservation of forests— Bombay Waterworks—Plague of rats in Deccan—Third visit to Sind vid Goojerat—Distinguished visitors to Bombay—The High Court—The Volunteers—Inspection of Canara forests—Acceptance of offer to stand as candidate for Parliament.

N January, 1887, I was at what proved to be the culminating point of my career in India. I was Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal actually, and I was Governor-elect of Bombay. Intermediately I was delegate from the Government of India to the Madras Presidency. Of the three Presidencies which make up British India, I had in this the month of my zenith an official connection with the whole of two Presidencies, and with a goodly portion of the third. At the end of April, 1877, passing from the Madras Presidency and through the Nizam’s dominions to my b future Presidency, I reflected that I was about to become Governor of Bombay. This made me think upon the portrait of my maternal uncle, Sir James Rivett-Carnac, in my ancestral home. How well I remembered, as a boy, scanning the handsome features, on being told that he had been Governor of Bombay. I wondered, too, at the uniform, never dreaming that I should one day wear it myself. Mr. Rivett-Carnac, who became the father of him and of my mother, was in the beginning of this century a Member of Council at Bombay. As he used to sit at that Council Board, with a noble lord from England presiding as Governor, he could hardly have thought that in the two succeeding generations his son and grandson would both occupy that Presidential chair.

Soon my train stopped at a country station inside the Bombay Presidency. There I alighted in order to ride and drive to Beejapore, one of the districts threatened with famine. I knew well that all arrangements for meeting the calamity had been made with due foresight by the Governor, Sir Philip Wodehouse, and his colleagues, with their henchman, General (afterwards Sir Michael) Kennedy. I inspected the remains of the Moslem dynasty at Beejapore, and indeed few ruins, even in India, were better worth seeing. The architecture, though stiff and quaint, was severely artistic. I thought of Meadows Taylor’s “Tara,” of which the scene is laid here, the most graphic story of Native life

Cuap. I.] THE GOVERNMENT OF BOMBAY. 3 ever penned by a European hand. The dome of the regal mausoleum was the finest ever erected in the world.

Returning to the railway, and travelling through Poona, during the night, I alighted at the Parell station near Bombay. I was there met by an assemblage of the principal officers of Western India, civil, political, military, marine. The daily newspaper remarked that as I rapidly recognised each old friend, my aspect was toil-worn and bronzed from exposure. I then drove to Parell House, where I was the guest of the retiring Governor, Sir Philip Wodehouse. I was with him as he sat at sunset for the last time in the leafy arcades of the garden rich with tropical vegetation. With him I descended the great staircase, on the next day, as he made his final exit to enter the State carriage. Turning round to the bystanders and attendants of various nationalities, he said in a manly yet touching tone, “Good-bye, all, all!” I accompanied him, being myself in full uniform, to the Apollo Bunder, the point where Governors, arriving or departing, have always landed or embarked. Here, then, troops of his friends had gathered, and hence the pinnace, decorated with bunting, took him on board the mail steamer bound for England.

T then drove to the Council Chamber, situate in the great suite of public buildings hard by. I was there met by the Members of my Executive Council also in uniform, and took my seat as President of the Board under a salute from the guns of the old Bombay Castle. The business was formal; but I had to present to my Honourable Colleagues a paper of peculiar interest. A telegram had just been received from Lord Lytton, the Governor-General in Council, giving verbatim a notification in their Gazette, which was then being published. They described in the most cordial terms their view of my labours and services in the Madras Presidency, since my relinquishment of the Government of Bengal in the previous January. They wound up by declaring that I was assuming the Government of Bombay with the best wishes of the Governor-General in Council. My senior colleague, Mr. James Gibbs— an old companion of mine at Haileybury College— proposed that this should be republished in our Bombay Gazette, as it would give me additional weight in my new position.

The next day, accompanied by Mr. Charles Buckland the Private Secretary and Colonel Stirling Rivett- Carnac the Military Secretary, I travelled by rail and road to Mahabaleshwar, the summer resort in the loveliest part of the Western Ghat Mountains, there to meet my wife. She had fallen out of health, and was to proceed to England at once. With her I looked at the romantic and historic scenery, the long layers of basaltic rock, the shadowy forests, and the ocean shimmering in the distance. We feared that it might

Cuap. L THE GOVERNMENT OF BOMBAY. 5 not be our fate to see these things again together. Then we travelled to Bombay and proceeded, not to Parell, but to the Governor’s marine villa on Malabar Point. This was a rocky sea-washed promontory, commanding beautiful views of the city and harbour of Bombay with the distant mountains. I escorted her and her sister Mrs. Buckland on board the steamer bound for England. My daughter remained with me for awhile, but afterwards she also fell sick and returned to England. My two sons were about to run civil and political careers in other parts of India.

I found myself able at once to fall in with my new duties. As compared with Bengal, my position was more dignified and more diversified in function, but less potential in reality. There I governed alone, here I must do so with the advice of my Council. Here I had several sorts of work not known there; but the Civil Administration was much more extensive there than here. My peace must largely depend on the co-operation of my Honourable Colleagues in Council. They were appointed by the Secretary of State in England. I was most fortunate in my colleagues, and throughout my time they acted in the best possible way towards me and with me. Sir Charles Staveley was then the Commander-in-Chief of our Bombay Army, Distinguished in the Government secretariat were Mr. Ravenscroft, who became Member of Council in my time, Mr. (afterwards Sir James) Peile, Mr. Nugent,

6 PHE STORY. OF » MY Ti k, [Cuap. I.

and Mr. Lee Warner. I was fortunate in obtaining the services of Mr. (afterwards Sir Theodore) Hope. He soon became a Member of the Government of India. The Legislative Council was of the same constitution as that which I had known in Bengal. I had the pleasure of nominating to it several Native gentlemen who did honour to their respective communities.

I followed the same method here as in Bengal of recording a Minute on every matter of consequence that came before me in any Department. These Minutes were printed, and formed a record of my conduct and policy in all branches of the Government, so that I could precisely trace what I had, or had not, thought, what I had or had not proposed, on each one of the numerous and varied subjects. Besides the government of a large British Indian population with a capital city of the very first rank, I had the supervision over several clusters of Native States. Beyond the limits of India proper, I governed Aden, and with it controlled the south-western corner of Arabia. I had to do with Perim and Jedda on the Red Sea, with the island of Socotra off the Somali coast of Africa, with Muscat on the Persian Gulf, and with Bussora in Mesopotamia.

_ My very first care was that of attending to the defences of Bombay against attack from the sea, according to instructions I had received from England.

‘Together with my military advisers, I caused ordnance

Cuar. L.] THE GOVERNMENT OF BOMBAY. 7 of suitable calibre to be drawn by elephant power, and mounted on the vantage points round the mouth of the harbour. I also satisfied myself that the mercantile shipping could in event of need be placed, with favourable anchorage and with safety, in the rear and under the protection of Elephanta Island.

Soon I embarked by a steamer bound for Kurrachi the British capital of Sind. To my personal staff was added Dr. George Waters as surgeon, a talented officer and my hearty friend, who accompanied me on all my tours. —

Sind was then the one part of my new charge which I had never seen, and I must visit it by sea voyage before the monsoon season should set in. At Kurrachi I met the Commissioner, Sir William Merewether, and his officers. He hospitably received me in the residence which had been the Government House of Sir Charles Napier. I found there my old schoolfellow Thomas Valpy Ffrench, the Bishop of Lahore, to whose diocese Sind had been attached for ecclesiastical matters. After studying the affairs of Sind for a few days, I paid a flying visit to Hyderabad, the old capital of the Amirs, with its curiously quaint fortifications. At Kurrachi we had breathed only the cool sea-breeze, but at Hyderabad we inhaled the heated and parching wind of the desert.

Then I returned to Bombay and to my marine villa on Malabar Point. As some days yet remained before the monsoon, I journeyed by rail along the coast north of Bombay in company with Mr. Matthews, the local chief on behalf of the Bombay and Baroda Railway Company, a very able and zealous man. We passed by the broad wheat-fields of Goojerat, renowned for quail-shooting, on to Ahmedabad the provincial capital, abounding in peculiar styles of Moslem architecture. So we advanced to the peninsula of Kattywar, containing a group of Native States well administered by enlightened chiefs. I had to arrange the extension of the railway system in that quarter; and this visit was fruitful in subsequent results.

Early in June the volumes of clouds came rolling up from the Indian Ocean to drop fatness on our land. I then travelled by rail to Poona, and alighted at Ganeshkind, the beautiful house built for the Governors under Sir Seymour Fitzgerald’s Administration. The Governor and his Council had for many years resorted to Poona for the rainy season. The climate then was cool and pleasant, though not bracing like that of the mountains. For me at this juncture the place had the advantage of being in the midst of the Mahrattas, forming the most important among the nationalities of my Presidency. It was also close to the famine-stricken country and to the relief operations.

I had occasion, however, to revisit Bombay more than once. I presided at a public meeting in the Town Hall there, to arrange and settle the formation of a

Cuar. 1.) THE GOVERNMENT OF BOMBAY. 9

Volunteer Corps. On another day I delivered in the same hall a speech to the Parsee community, my object being to stir their just pride of race, and to rouse them to benevolent exertions for particular institutions. I happened to be fortunate in my allusions to the history of their “ blue blood,” and to the annals in the “‘ Shahndimeh” of Firdisi. The scene as I rode away from the hall is still in my recollection—as they crowded round my horse, cheering, saluting and touching my hand, while I reciprocated their expressions of good will.

On another occasion I had the honour of unveiling the statue of the Prince of Wales erected at Bombay by the munificence of Sir Albert Sassoon. I found the Jewish community in Bombay to be signalized by educational effort, by charity and by good works generally. .

Shortly afterwards returning to Poona, I had the honour of receiving there the Governor-General Lord Lytton, then on his way from Simla to confer with the Governor of Madras under the new development of the famine. I gave the entertainments at Ganeshkind usual on such occasions, in His Lordship’s honour.

The rains, after descending well everywhere, had begun to fail in Southern India, so that the Madras Government were face to face with a second year of famine. We fared somewhat better in the Bombay

Presidency, and the rains were for some time propitious.

Our relief operations, too, proved successful. But then a new enemy appeared stalking by noonday. After holding off for a certain interval, the rains returned with such copiousness that by autumn not only was the land refreshed, but an excessive damp set in, prostrating the people with low fever. So I had the sorrow of seeing that many lives, which we had with ‘infinite exertion saved from starvation, were succumbing to malaria beyond human power to remedy—and this, too, just as plenty was returning with an abundant harvest.

During the autumn, together with my colleagues and our engineer advisers—first among whom was Colonel Merriman of the Royal Engineers—I took up schemes for extending railways and canals of irrigation in the recently distressed districts. We provided fmancial means for carrying out these projects and many, or most, of them have been executed in after years.

Some important criticism on the land-settlement of the Deccan had been offered from the outside. So I studied and then vindicated the work to which the best mind of the Bombay officers had been devoted for many years. Colonel Anderson was then head of that Department under me. I found, however, that the people had in some degree abused the valuable rights thus secured, by pledging them as security for social expenditure which could not properly be afforded. Thus they often fell within the grip of money-lenders who

Cuap, 1.) THE GOVERNMENT OF BOMBAY. not were but too ready at hand. This indebtedness of some among the Deccan peasantry became such that I was induced to make certain legislative proposals. As the Civil Law applicable to all India would be thus affected, a long correspondence with the Government of India became necessary, of which I did not see the end.

In companionship with my old friend Colonel Baigree —one of the best amateur artists ever known in India —I resumed my water-colour work by painting a picture of the Thibetan border as seen from the Hastern Himalayas. Soon afterwards he fell ill mortally, and iF with many other officers, stood at his grave-side, while Sir Charles Staveley in a broken voice uttered a few heartfelt words in his memory.

The autumn over, I returned to Bombay where a pleasant function awaited me. My countless friends among the Natives of Bengal had been disappointed on finding that, although I had left Calcutta for a ten days’ trip to Delhi with the fullest intention of return-- ing, I never did return. Consequently they had no ‘opportunity of making any farewell demonstration at the time. They resolved to find some way of making one nevertheless. So during the summer they prepared an address, in excellent English, setting forth their opinion of the manner in which I had ruled over them. This was signed by representative men from every town and district of Bengal—till at length the number of signatures was computed to exceed fifteen thousand.

They then communicated with the leading Natives of Bombay, and sent thither a Bengali deputation from Calcutta. The Bombay men arranged a Native assemblage and entertainment, during which the Calcutta deputation should present the address with due ceremony. I could not fail to be touched by the evident genuineness of the kind expressions in the address. It had come across the Continent of India from a people with whom I had parted for ever, and for whom I never could do anything more.

I then revisited Kurrachi, in order to concert with the military authorities some improved arrangements for its defence against possible attack from the sea. I further provided for the better dredging of the harbour, so as to deepen it and thus enlarge the anchoring space for ocean-going ships. I passed up the Indus by a river-steamer to Sukkur, which would be the point of departure for military communication with Southern Afghanistan. Leaving there my steamer, I reflected that this was the last time any Governor would use one of these beautiful vessels which had for a whole generation been plying on the Indus. For the railway was now nearly complete from Kurrachi to Sukkur, and on to Multan to join the Panjab railway system. So the days of passenger traffic on the Indus were numbered, and this was a landmark in the history of Western India.

I then proceeded across my Sind border to Multan,

Cuar. I.] THE GOVERNMENT OF BOMBAY. 18 in view of travelling thence by Northern India to Calcutta to meet Lord Lytton there. On my way I diverged to Ajmere in Rajputana, in order to talk again with my old friend Sir Alfred Lyall. My visit to Lord Lytton was but a flying one, and I returned quickly to my own Presidency, wondering at the rapid and easy way of moving from one side of this vast Continent to the other, and at the change which railways had recently wrought on the face of Indian affairs.

On my way back, I journeyed up the Vindhya mountains to Mhow, a cantonment of Bombay troops, and to Indore the capital of a leading Mahratta prince. My real object was to visit Oodeypore, and see the most distinguished among the Rajput Sovereign-Chiefs. Oodeypore, with its lakes and palaces, was esteemed the most beautiful and romantic place in Rajputana. The chief had an illumination in honour of my visit. At nightfall I and my Staff embarked on the lake in a State barge. Its prow and its helm had finely carved swans, griffins and other creatures. Itself illuminated,

“it glided over the dark waters as a vision of hght. Round about the lake, the castles and palaces that crowned the heights, the villas and dwellings that fringed the margin, were all outlined with lamp-hght. This was the most picturesque display of lighting I ever saw, even in India the land of illuminations.

Then I passed by Mount Aboo called “the majestic,”

which had been for centuries one of the temple-crowned seats of the Jain religion, and during this century the health-resort for the Europeans in Rajputana. Thence I entered my own province of Goojerat, and heard much of the wondrous quail-shooting. In the early spring, the young grain crops on the irrigated lands are literally alive with these little birds. It is supposed that they breed in Arabia, are then wafted by the zephyr across Beluchistan and the Indus, and stop to feed in the young grain of the western coast of India. That over, they migrate to the wheat and barley crops inland. My friend Mr. Sheppard was a renowned shot with the quail. I then passed quickly down to Bombay where important affairs awaited me.

The docks of Bombay, “ wet and dry,” private and public, were numerous and extensive. Chiefest among them was the Prince’s Dock a noble work begun and carried on by my predecessors, and still in progress under me. But they were wanting in uniformity of management. So it was decided to amalgamate most of them under a new and unified Dock Trust. On the brink of the harbour, in verbal conference with all concerned, I was able to arrange this complex affair in a few days with the minimum of correspondence.

The annual Convocation of the Bombay University was at hand, and as Chancellor I was to deliver my first Address. By tradition the occasion had to be invested with ceremony. In uniform and with my Chancellor’s ,

Car. I] THE GOVERNMENT OF BOMBAY. 15 robe, I was followed in procession by the Fellows in their robes, and by the graduates or undergraduates in their gowns. ‘The hall being spacious there was a large attendance both of the European society and of the Native gentry. I then read my Address, which had been elaborately prepared and printed beforehand.

Soon Mr. Charles Buckland, my able Private Secretary, received a post in the Secretariat of the Government of India. He was succeeded by Mr. George Hart my old assistant in the Finance Ministry. In addition to Captain Frith, I had the valued services of Captain Dean Pitt and Captain Plant as Aides-de- Camp—and for some time of Captain Anderson also.

Then I was confidentially informed by Lord Lytton that, in reference to the pending Russo-Turkish War, a body of troops might have to be despatched from Bombay to Malta. I was to secretly enquire into the means of marine transport then in the Bombay harbour. This I did, ship by ship, with my Marine advisers, and not a whisper got abroad.

Just at that moment a pleasing avocation called me away from Bombay. During the famine of the previous year, I had obtained the necessary sanction to the construction of a Chord-line, connecting the railway from Bombay towards Calcutta with the railway towards Madras, saving a long détour in the conveyance of food grains. I then had caused the line to be rapidly completed so that it was already fit for traffic. Those

16 THE STORY OF MY LIFE. [Cuar, I.

concerned, and the public generally, were desirous that I should be present at the opening ceremony. By the main line I ascended the Western Ghat mountains, and arrived at the northern end of the new Chord-line. With a long silver hammer having an ebony handle I drove in the last bolt, and acknowledged the greetings of the multitude. Then I travelled along the line by its first passenger train to the southern end at Poona.

There I received a telegram from Lord Lytton, intimating that he had publicly notified the intention of the Government of India to despatch the military expedition from Bombay to Malta, instructing me to give immediate effect to that intention, and allowing me the freest hand for action. An express train soon carried me to Bombay, where I laid the matter before my colleagues in council.

I was thankful to recognise the zeal and co-operative energy displayed by the people of Bombay at large, and by all classes whether official, professional, commercial, or industrial, whether corporations or individuals. Hach person vied with his neighbour in helping, and without such universal assistance the work could not have been done in time. Imyself left my marine villa at Malabar Point, and dwelt for a fortnight in a State building close to the harbour. JI was duly instructed by Lord Lytton as to what troops would come from the Madras and Bombay Presidencies. My own Commander-in- Chief chose the troops from the Bombay Presidency.