The Southern World: Journal of a Deputation from the Wesleyan Conference to Australia and ...

Front matter

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Preface

The Author of the following pages having in eighteen months passed over a large portion of the globe, his remarks on the different countries visited are necessarily brief.. He has described things as they appeared to himj and although interspersing his journal with several miscellaneous subjects, he has endeavoured to keep in view the object of his mission. No labour has been spared to obtain correct information on the various topics introduced: and he would here gratefully acknowledge his obligation to the Missionaries and other gentlemen, for the readiness and clearness with which they answered his numerous inquiries, and thus put him in possession of much valuable informatiou, which he could not otherwise have obtained.

It was the Author's intention to have offered some suggestions on Emigration; but having seen that other writers have anticipated him, and furnished much suitable advice to emigrants, the only remarks which he would now venture to make on the subject are these : — If people are doing well at home, they had better be content to remain there, lest, like many he has met with, they should change for the worse. To those who think they must emigrate, he would respectfully intimate that if they are delicate, and have been tenderly brought up, they ought not to emigrate to the ** diggings," unless they are

A 3

Tl PREFACE.

prepared to dig their own graves. Mechanics, agriculturists, labourers, and miners, are the . classes best adapted to the present state of Australia; and if such parties be healthy, sober, industrious, of good principles, possessed of common sense, and willing to endure hardship and discomfort for a season, thej may emigrate to any of the Australian colonies, with a reasonable hope of success.

The writer is thankful to state that the object of his mission to the Southern World has been satisfactorily accomplished, and the Wesleyan Mission churches in Australia and Polynesia have been formed into a distinct Connexion, with a Conference of its own. The important arrangement is now committed to the watchful care and guidance of Him, without whose blessing nothing is wise, or good, or strong.

London, September 23, 1854.

CHAPTER I. Page

Introductory remarks — Parting scene — Sea-sickness — First Sabbath — Loss of roasts — Screw entangled — Flag of distress — A leak springs — Steers for Lisbon — Arrival — Appearance of the city — Popery — Tomb of Doddridge — ^Anniversary of the great earthquake — Murder on board the "Melbourne" — Bull-fighting — Procession of the Host — Deputation from London — Return to England . . .... 1

Chapter II

Sailing of the " Adelaide *' — Disaster — Return to Plymouth — Starts again — Gale — Cabin flooded — Ship on fire — Canary Isles — St Vincent — No coals — Character of passengers — Crossing the Line — Boy drowned — Burial at sea — St Helena — ^An execution — ^Visit to Napoleon's tomb — Another death — Gambling on board — ^Arrival at the Cape .....

Chapter III

Cape-Town — Visit to Constantia— «Duel prevented — School anniversary—Departure — Gale— Another death — Alarm of fire — Albatross — Fearful gale — Passengers assist at the pumps — Religious views — Uncle Tom's Cabin — An evening party — Land in sight — Arrival in Australia . . .41

Vlll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV. Paob

Australia — Swan- River — Aborigines — Funeral in the wilderness — Departure — Kangaroo- Is! and — Arrival in South Australia — Visit to Adelaide — Departure — Hobson's Bay — Arrival in Melbourne — ^Visit to St Kelda — Brighton, and Geelong — Departure — Squatters and Diggers — Arrival in Sydney . 58

Chapter V

New South "Wales— Sydney — Official Address — Missionary Meetings — ^Visit to Windsor, Kichmond, and Paramatta — Snow — Sydney University — State support of Religion— A peculiar character — Legislative Council — Speaker — Visit to the University — Census Schedules . . . . . . .89

Chapter VI

Schools — Australian Board of Missions — Emancipated convicts — Public Library — Convict establishment — Sydney District- Meeting-^Wesleyan College — More Ministers wanted — Government immigrants — Atheist reclaimed — New Constitution Bill — Speeches on the second reading — A fallen Minister imprisoned — Death-adder — Debate in the Council — New Exchange — Arrival of Missionaries from Polynesia — Dust-storm . .118

Chapter VII

Embark for New Zealand — Passengers — New Zealand in sight — Tradition as to its origin — North Cape — Wangaroa — Arrival at Auckland — The Town — Wesleyan Chapel — District- Meeting — Education — Letter from the Governor — Government scheme — Members of the Mission churches — Mission property — The union of the Mission with Australia— Missionary Meeting — Mr. Whiteley's replies to sundry questions . . , .139

CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER VIII. Page

Missionaries' bush costume — Long journey — Tea-meeting — Mount Eden — Visit to "Three Kings' Institution" — Sermon in the Free Church — Interview with Epiha Putini — Message to the Oueen— Wesleyan College — Auckland Day-school — Letters from Native Christians . . . . . .161

Chapter IX

Interview with natives — Tattooing — Cannibalism — Statements of Christian natives — A Christian Chief— Land squabbles— Letter from a Chief — Anniversary of Captain Cook's discovery of New Zealand — Massacres — Canoes — Intellectual character of the natives — John Hobbs — Review of the work — Bishop Selwyn — Missionaries — Colonization — Colonists — Departure for the Friendly Isles . . . . . . .184

Chapter X

Friendly Isles — Arrival in Tongatabu — Visit to King George — Normal Institution — Family worship — Queen Charlotte — Preparation of the Sabbath — Meeting of Missionaries — Sabbath — Class-meetings — Tapu beating — King's visit to Australia — Offers to provision the ship — ^Visit from the Queen — Present from the King— Visit to the seat of the late war— Mua— Popery — Extraordinary tombs — God-houses — School examination — Chief Justice — Mr. Adams's astronomy . . .209

Chapter XI

Departure from Tonga — Queen's letter — Population — Political constitution — Recognised ranks — Mental character — Education — Late war — ^Arrival at Vavau — Sabbath — Church- meeting- School examination — Kava drinking — Letter to the King — His reply — Native Minister — Produce of the islands — Employment of the people — Social condition — Domestic circle — ^Tradition — How the people speak of their former condition . . 232

Z CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII. Pagb

Departure from Yavau — ^Yampire-bat — Introductioii of Christianity

into Yavau — Revival in 1834— Prevalence of the Wesleyans — Church-members — Revival in 1846 — Contributions — Introduction of Popery — Character of the people — Diseases — Tradition — Review of the work— Sabbath observance — Family-worship — Love of the Scriptures — Civilization . . 256

Chapter XIII

Feejee — Lakemba — Church-meeting— Joel Bulu — ^Arrival of the Mail — Dinner sefit by the King— Native pottery— Kind children — Another dinner sent — School examination — King George preaches — A marriage — Cannibalism — Kling of Lakemba — Popish Priests foiled — Rotumah — Departure— Political Constitution — Ranks — Character of the people — Improvement — Native agents— Education — Hindrances — ^War — Considerations which sustain Missionaries — Arrival at Yewa . . . 272

Chapter XIV

Yewa — Meeting of Missionaries — Yisit to Bau — Thakombau — King of Somosomo — School examination — Meditated revenge — Change in Christian Feejeeans — Civilization — Native's estimate of Missionaries — Sacrifice of human life — Effects of European and American visitors — Mental character — Romanism — Means of support — Treatment of women— Resources for trade — Prospect of Christianizing the people — General aspect and character of the country — Climate — Commerce — Cannibalism—Character of the Heathen — Means of civilization — Superstition — Tradition — Courtship — Women in power — Contrast between Christians and the Heathen .... 297

CONTENTS.

XI

CHAPTER XV. Page

Visit to th€ tomb of Mr. Hunt — The war at Ovalau— Death and character of Varani — Women strangled — Heroic conduct of Missionaries to save life — Contents of cannibal ovens obtained for interment — Customs apparently of Asiatic origin — Departure from Vewa — Review of the work of the Mission — Voyage to Sydney . . . . . .817

Chapter XVI

King George in Sydney — Legislative Council — The King at a party — Missionary Meeting — Valedictory address — Departure from Sydney — Review of the rise and progress of Methodism in New South "Wales — Letter from Rev. R. Mansfield — Arrival in Melbourne — Departure for Mount Alexander — Journey — Arrival at Forest Creek — Digger's wedding — Christmas-day on the gold-fields — Bendigo — State of the digging population — Influence of Methodism — Large tea-meeting — ^Average earnings of gold-diggers — Return to Melbourne . . .343

Chapter XVII

New-year — Hot wind and dust-storm — Departure for Van Diemen's Land — Arrival in Launceston — Journey through the island — Hobart-Town — Various Meetings — Sandy-Bay — Return to Launceston — More Meetings — Contributions for additional Ministers — Inconvenience of departing from a penal Colony — Rise and progress of Methodism in the land — Arrival in Melbourne — Meetings — Review of the Mission in Victoria — Mission to the Aborigines — Cause of its failure — Native Institution at Mount Franklin . . . . . .374

XU CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII. Page

Departure from Melbourne — Arrival at Adelaide — Wesleyan church in that colony — Unhappy death of a passenger — Arrival at King George's Sound — Review of the work in Australasia — New Ecclesiastical arrangement — Character of Missionaries — Departure for Ceylon — Unfortunate letter — Tropical sunset — Arrival at Point-de-Galle — Cinnamon gardens — Budhist temple — Interview with priests — Conversations with Native Christians — Mission-schools — Missionaries' challenge to the Devil-priests 397

Chapter XIX

Departure from Ceylon — Letter from a Native Christian — Passengers — Arrival at Aden — Scriptural illustrations — Arabs — Departure — Red Sea — Mount Horeb — Passage of the Israelites — Suez — — Loading camels — Journey across the Desert — Mirage — Rag-tree — Arrival in Cairo — Grand Mosque — Joseph's Well — Slave-market — Bazaars — Enmity of Mohammedans — The Nile — Canal — Mohammedan sailors — Alexandria — Malta — Meeting of the English and French soldiers— Gibraltar — ^Arrival at home ........ 415

NOTES

REFERRED TO IN THE VOLUME.

A. Rules and Regulations of the "Wesleyan Immigrants' Home . 429

B. Table, showing the state of the Labour-market . . . 430

C. Extract from the Minutes of the New South Wales District-

Meeting 431

D. Imports and Exports of New South Wales .... 432

E. Minutes of a Leaders' Meeting, held at Auckland, New

Zealand, September 23, 1853 432

F. Skeleton of a Sermon by Shadrach Mumui, Chief Judge of Tonga 433

G. The Laws of the Kingdoms of Tonga, Haabai, and Yavau . 434

H. Brief Outline of King George's Sermon 442

I. Letter from the Rev. J. Wesley to Mr. Valton . . . .443

K. Public challenge to the Devil-priests of Ceylon noticed . . 444

THE SOUTHERN WORLD.

JOURNAL OP A DEPUTATION

ATJSTEALIA MD POLYNESIA.

Chapter I

Introductory remarks — Parting scene — Sea-sickness — First Sabbath — Loss of masts — Screw entangled — Flag of distress — A leak springs — Steers for Lisbon — Arrival — Appearance of the city — Popery — Tomb of Doddridge — Anniversary of the great earthquake — Murder on board the " Melbourne " — Bull-fighting — Procession of the Host-^Deputation from London — Return to England.

Chbistianitt is essentially aggressive. Its precepts direct, and its spirit excites^ its recipients to labour dn its diffusion ; whilst its prophecies and promises encourage them to anticipate the most glorious success. In accordance with this view of Christianity, Missionaries must be sent forth, and, in some instances, for a time "take nothing of the Gentiles," but derive their support from the churches at home. The necessity of the case may require this, and the exampte of the primitive Church can be cited in its behalf. But this state of things is only preliminary to that which is more perfect. It is not intended to continue, and indeed in the nature of things cannot do so. Churches raised by Missionary instrumentality must not be pauperised, but as soon as practicable provide for themselves, and contribute their exertions to send the gospel still farther Into the regions beyond. That this from the beginning has been the plan of the Great Head of the Church for disseminating Christianity, is an undoubted fact. Of this England itself, the origin of whose Christianity is to be traced to

B

Missionary labours among our pagan ancestors^ affords a yery striking illustration. Were this plan to be practically abandoned, a twofold eyil would ensue. Mission churches which might continue to lean upon the support of others when they had passed their infancy and were capable of providing for themselves, would thereby not only cramp their own operations, and deprive themselves of a healthy and welf-developed activity, but would, as an inevitable result, become deteriorated in their religious character; whilst the churches at home, impoverished by such conduct, would not be able to prosecute the great work of evangelizing the world with that vigour which they otherwise would exert. This manifest order of God therefore requires that at the proper time Mission churches should undertake the duty of providing for themselves and managing their Qwn local affairs. And if it be proper to apply this order to churches raised up in heathen lands, how much more so to churches established in Christian colonies 1

After much deliberation on the part of the Wesleyan Missionary Committee and Conference, it was thought the time had arrived when their important Mission churches in Australia, including Van Diemen's Land, ought thus to be cast upon their own resources. In those churches it was believed there were adequate pecuniary resources to supply the means for the accomplishment of this arrangement, and piety and intelligence rendering them capable of taking with advantage this higher position among the churches^ of Christ.

To make preliminary arrangements for the introduction of this important measure, a deputation to the Southern World was deemed highly necessary, and the author was requested to undertake its duties. After much anxious thought on the subject, he consented to do so, and the following pages contain the journal which he kept whilst prosecuting the work to which he had been appointed.

October ISik, 1852, — Having taken my passage by the " Melbourne," one of the vessels of the " Australian Royal Mail

THE BOUTHEBir WOBLO. 3

Steam Navigation Companj," bound for Bjdnej, I left my nmch beloyed family, and embarked at Plymouth. I found 150 passengers on board ; amongst whom was the Eey. John Kirk, who had been appointed to accompany me. This being the last English port at which the ship was to touch, some yery affecting scenes occurred whilst attached friends and relations were being separated, with but little or no hope of ever meeting again in this world of change. Here was a fond sister, in a paroxysm of grief, hanging on the neck of an only brother; and there a venerable parent, of more than three-score years and ten, struggling with deep emotion whilst giving his last blessing to his adventurous son. In another direction was seen a respectable lady in deep mourning, bowed down with sorrow, as she leaned on the arm of a friend. Joseph was not; Simeon was not; and now Benjamin was about to be taken from her.

A very different scene appeared in another part of the vessel. Two SheriflTs officers were engaged in arresting a debtor who was escaping from his creditors. The unhappy man compromised the matter by the payment of a large sum, and was allowed to proceed. Similar officers were sent after another culprit ; but, although they went in the ship some distance beyond the breakwater, he managed to evade their most diligent search. Honest men may be brought into difficulty, but in all such cases they will be disposed to arrange honourably with their creditors^ and not covertly escape to some distant land.

16^A. — The vessel rolled much, and nearly all the passengers were affected with sea-sickness, which induced several of them to regret their having lefb the shores of England. I saw many a prostrate form and ghastly look, and thought if any member of the medical faculty should discover either a preventive or cure for this distressing malady, he would be gratefully remembered as a public benefactor.

17 tL — Sabbath. Held a religious service in the saloon, and was much pleased with the attendance. The ship was veiy unsteady, but by *^ holding on " we managed to get through vrithout interruption.

b2

4 THE SOUTHSBN WOBLB.

I8th, — Commenced visiting the sick on board, amongst whom I found an interesting young man, who had ruptured a bloodvessel, and appeared to be dying. He belonged to a very respectable family, and wept when he referred to his parents. His cabin was flooded with water, and I was obliged to stand upon a thick piece of timber ; but even then I could not keep myself dry, and the bedding of the afflicted youth was saturated. I directed him to the Friend of sinners as his only hope, and commended him to God.

19^. — About 1 o'clock this morning we met with a serious accident. Our vessel being a full-rigged ship, and her steam power but auxiliary, the Captain was anxious to make the best of the very fine breezes with which we were favoured, and therefore put upon her a heavy press of canvass; when, unfortunately, she rolled her masts overboard, carried away part of her bulwarks, and received other damage. The spars, sails, and other parts of the rigging became entangled with the screw propeller, and rendered it totally powerless. Thus in a few minutes we were completely disabled, deprived of our two-fold power, and left to the mercy of the waves. When the day dawned the disaster became more manifest, and I perceived that several of the passengers had put on their " life preservers," and, from their very anxious countenances, were evidently expecting t(T have a plunge. One person had hung a bag of sovereigns around his neck, and seemed determined to save his money, or to perish with it. Another individual, under great alarm, inquired anxiously of one of the officers as to the safety of the life-boat, and being informed that one of the sailors had left the plug out of it when at Plymouth, his alarm was much increased. The waggish son of Neptune, who had been in many a storm, and who feared no danger, seeing the effect of his statement, very coolly said to his trembling inquirer, that the case was not so bad as he appeared to think it, for the first officer, having found out the defect, had with great promptitude put a plaster of strong brown paper upon the hole, to meet the present emergency. On hearing this, the poor excited and simple man immediately communicated the matter to the doctor, and said,

THE SOUTHBEN WOELD. O

as there would no doubt be a tremendous rush to the life-boat, and as he was greatly enfeebled through sickness, he felt assured that there would be no chance of his getting a place therein unless the doctor would give him a certificate as to the state of his health ; and in order to secure that favour, he voluntarily offered to take his place in the boat before it was lowered, and solemnly engaged to sit firmly upon the brown paper, and thus render the boat doubly secure ! It was too bad thus to sport with the fears of an almost distracted man, especially as he heard the Captain say there was great danger of the ship going down; but some men will yield to their prevaiUng tendency in the very jaws of death.

^ A little after 6 o'clock a vessel was seen in the distance, and the Captain made the usual signal of distress. She approached, and learned the nature of our disaster. About noon another vessel appeared, and as our signal was still fiying, she also came and ascertained our circumstances. The former was the brig " Reaper," of Dundee, bound for Berbice ; the latter, the schooner " Alexander," of Exeter, bound for the Brazils ; and although the wind was favourable, they gallantly stood by us for thirty-six hours, until we conceived our danger past. The whole of the day was spent in labouring to clear the screw, but without effect.

20ih, — After much exertion the screw was lifted and disentangled ; and about 8 o'clock p.m. resumed its work, to the joy of every one on board.

In the afternoon two swallows, much exhausted, came on board ; and as we were about 400 miles from land, they were doubtless migrliting to a more congenial clime. As 'Hhe stork in the heaven knoweth her appointed time, and the turtle, and the crane, and the swallow observe the time of their coming," I was encouraged to believe that He who guided the swallow in her flight across the trackless ocean, would direct the course of those who put their trust in Him, and in due time conduct them to the city of habitation.

21st, — ^We began to repair in some degree our damage, until we should reach Cape de Yerd Islands, but our disasters were

B 3 not yet past; for about 9 o'clock p.m. the Captain summoned the passengers into the saloon, and informed them that the vessel had sprung a leak; and that, as it would be dangerous to proceed on our course, he had, on consulting his olGioerB^ determined to steer for Lisbon. He also stated that should the leak dangerously enlarge during the night, the boats would be ready for our escape, but that they would not accommodate more than one half of the persons on board. Certainly this was not a very pleasing announcement ! We were in the midst of tremendous waves, and upwards of 400 miles from land. I ceased from man, retired to my cabin, committed my case to Him who '' holds the winds in his fist, and the waters in the hollow of his hand," laid myself down and slept in peace, and did not awake until the break of day.

22d, — Many acknowledged the kind providence of God in having preserved us during the night; and as we were still in danger, I perceived a disposition on the part of some of the most ungodly to cry unto the Lord in their trouble. Human nature was obviously the same in the days of the Psalmist Speaking of those *^ who go down to the sea in ships," and who in consequence of the waves thereof are brought to their " wit's end," he declares that " then they cry imto the Lord in their trouble." Of this truth we had some striking examples on board the " Melbourne :" many a cry was heard, and many a prayer went up to heaven, from lips evidently unaccustomed to devotion.

23d, — A meeting of the first-class passengers took place to consider the propriety of our not proceeding farther ^han Lisbon in the " Melbourne." Very much against my inclination I was called to the chair; and from the manifest discomfort and danger of the vessel to passengers, as indicated by the statement of the medical officer, the meeting unanimously resolved that it would be unsafe to proceed farther in the ship, and a^eed to request the ^'Australian Boyal Mail Steam Navigation Company" to provide them with a proper and efficient steam- vessel, to enable them to continue their voyage; or to refund their passage-money, and pay their expenses from

THB SOUTHSBN WOBLD. 7

Lisbon to E&gland. The second and third class 'passengers addressed a similar request to the Gompanj.

24:tk — Sabbath. We entered the spacious and beautiful harbour of Lisbon. The morning was lovely, and as the sun shone upon the city, which stands upon seven hills, its appearance from the river exceeded in beauty anything of the kind I had ever witnessed; and I should have gazed upon it with intense delighl^ had not certain indications reminded me most affectingly that the '' Man of sin "* reigned there. The confusion on board prevented our holding any religious service, and was much calculated to distract the mind.

Most of the passengers went on shore; and many of them, I regret to say, attended the theatre. How unstaMe is man! Some of those who thus desecrated the Sabbath had, but a few days before, made solemn vows to Gk>d; but, now that the danger was past^ their vows were forgotten, and their Divine Preserver insulted. Nor was this any new phase in human nature. When the plague was upon Pharaoh, endanger^ ing his life, he " called for Moses and Aaron, and said unto them, I have sinned this time : the Lord is righteous, and I and my people are wicked," and he made vows unto the Lord ; but when ^ he saw that the rain and the hail and the thunder had ceased, he sinned yet more, and hardened his heart, neither would he let the children of Israel go." So the parties in question, who during the season of danger made solemn vows to God, seem to have been no more sincere than was the Egyptian King, or they would have exalted their Deliverer in the congregation of the saints, rather than have dishonoured him in the assembly of the ungodly.

25th. — ^After breakfast, I went on shore, and soon found that Lisbon looked best at a distance. Its streets are generally narrow and filthy, and its churches externally are not imposing, but internally many of them are magnificent, and exhibit most costly decorations. Its population is estimated at 260,000.

27th. — The ship was surveyed by the doctor of the naval hospital, and the surgeon of Her Majesty's steam ship, the "Inflexible," who reported very unfavourably of her sanatory

8 THS 80UTHEBN WORLD.

condition. I do not like, without good and sufficient cause, to express anj censure upon a public Company. It is, however, but simple truth to say, that there was not a passenger on board, who did not feel that he had been thoroughly imposed upon. I do not saj it was designedly done, as I belieye the Company incapable of that ; but the vessel having been built for other service was never adapted for passengers ; and from her being overcrowded, and over-loaded, together with her defective fitting up and general arrangement, it was impossible for them to realise that comfort which they had been so confidently, and in the most glowing terms, taught to expect The ports being so low, could not be opened for ventilation without admitting water; and there being no other means of ventilating the berths, their closeness became most oppress! veand unbearable j andbeinggenerallyflooded with sea-water, even in fine weather, comfort was rendered impossible. I had one of the best cabins in the ship, but frequently there were several inches of water in it. Others were much more deluged, and some of them fairly presented foaming billows during the rolling of the vessel The accumulation of filth, and the want of arrangement throughout, led to serious complaints, and not a little bitterness. To have been thus treated, in any vessel, would have created dissatisfaction; but these things occurring in a Royal Mail steamer, where much better things had been amply paid for, and might have been reasonably expected, gave an impulse to discontent; and but for the good sense of the passengers we should have had an outbreak of feeling. I think it a great mistake for three classes of passengers to be in the same vessel It creates caste, and leads to various heartburnings^ as I frequently witnessed. In the Royal Mail steamer especially, there should be but one class of passengers. It would be much more comfortable for the passengers themselves, and I have no doubt ultimately more profitable to the Company.

2Sth, — Having received from the British Consul an un&vourable account as to the seaworthiness of the ^' Melbourne," the passengers had a meeting on shore; and after considering the whole case, several of them determined to return to England

THE SOUTHftlN WOELD. 9

by the Mediterranean Mail steamer, which had just arrived. I however thought it the wisest course to remain at Lisbon until I should hear from London. The medical officer having pronounced it unsafe to sleep on board the ''Melbourne/' I took lodgings at the Bragauza Hotel, where manj of the passengers had been ever since their arrival in port. The charge, including everything, was 6«. 6d, per day. The sleeping accommodations were not good, — equal only to those of the humblest English cottage : at least, I found it to be so in No. 13 ; and I heard other lodgers complain of the poverty of their rooms, and of the hardness of their beds of straw.