Short stalks; second series, comprising trips in Somaliland, Sinai, the eastern desert of Egypt, Crete, the Carpathian Mountains, and Daghestan

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Preface

I HOPE, in issuing a second series of Short Stalks, that some slight reflection of the pleasure ^ which I have derived from the journeys herein described may reach my readers.

I have illustrated this volume from my own photographs, which, though the mere casual snap-shots of an amateur, perhaps give more reality to the text than the engraver's art, however beautiful. They have been exceflently reproduced by the Swan Electric Engraving Company, to whom my thanks are due. Some of the blocks have been borrowed from my daughter's book, O71 Either Side of the Red Sea. Mr. J. G. Millais' work is always welcome to sportsmen. He has kindly furnished me with the vigorous design for the cover of the volume.

Three of these chapters have appeared in the Nineteenth Century, and I am indebted to the editor of that magazine for permission to republish them. Messrs. Longman have kindly allowed me to include the article on vi SHORT STALKS

Crete which I contributed to the Badminton Magazine. The map of the Somaliland Protectorate is added, not only for the convenience of sportsmen, but to make it clear what are now the limitations of their rights, on the one hand by the extension of the Aden Reserve, and on the other by the treaty, lately concluded with the Emperor Menelek, which curtails the boundaries of our Protectorate, and forbids armed parties to cross that boundary. It is a transcription from a map prepared under the direction of Mr. A. E. Pease, M.P., and comprises the latest observations of travellers up to the present date, including his own. I have added to it the most permanent watering-places, as noted by Major Swayne and other authorities. It is, I think, the most complete map of the country as yet published. My thanks are also due to the Controller of H.M. Stationery Office for permission to use a portion of the Ordnance Survey map of the peninsula of Sinai.

E. N. BUXTON.

Knighton, March 1898.

Contents

PAQB

I. Somali Land and People ..... 1

II. Timber Creeping in the Carpathians . 64

II II

>i

II

II

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

XI

Wadi Hebran

To farf> jKifje 150 lAkkos

, 156

Above the Xyloscalon

, 160

Near Hagbios Nicbolaos

, 166

A Family Party at Samaria

, 170

A Walnut Grove

Three G^enerations .

, 178

The Beaters

, 182

Native Curiosity

, 184

Guirgiski Bridge

Leaghians .

Golok

, 190

The Forest Region .

Our two Naibs

, 194

Achvach — Sunset .

, 196

Woman — The Breadwinner

, 198

Village near Bejito

, 200

The Home of the Snow Partridge

, 202

A CantUever Bridge

, 204

Our « At Home " at Achvach

Thraahing on the House-tops

Dispersing Clouds .

Habakkuk .

, 214

Above the Timber .

, 216

Our last Camp

An Awkward Traverse

, 222

The Hour of Prayer

•

MAPS

The Somali Protectorate . . . , In the Front Cover

The Granite Ranee of Sinai ft 1

In the 1

3<ick Cover

Nearly six hundred years ago that worthy old explorer and missionary, Friar Jordanus, wrote of the Eastern Horn of Afirica, which he passed on his way to the scene of his labours in India — " Of India Tertia I will say this, that I have not indeed seen its many marvels, not having been there, but have heard them from trustworthy persons. For example, there be dragons in the greatest abundance, which carry on their heads the lustrous stones which be called carbuncles. These animals have their lying-place upon golden sands, and grow exceeding big, and cast forth from the mouth a most fetid and infectious breath, like the thickest smoke rising from fire. These animals come together at the destined time, develope wings, and begin to raise themselves in the air, and then, by the judgment of God, being too heavy, they drop into a certain river which issues from Paradise, and perish there. But all the regions round about watch for the time of the dragons, and when they see that one has fallen, they wait for seventy ^ days, and then go down and find the bare bones of the

B I dragon, and take the carbuncle which is rooted in the top of his head, and carry it to the emperor of the ^Ethiopians, whom you call Prestre Johan. In this India Tertia are certain birds, which are called Roc, so big that they easily carry an elephant up into the air. I have seen a certain person who said that he had seen one of those birds, one wing only of which stretched to a length of eighty palms. In this India are the true unicorns, like a great horse, having only one horn in the forehead, very thick and sharp, but short, and quite solid, marrow and all. This creature, it is said, is of such fierceness that it will kill an elephant, nor can it be captured except by a virgin girl. . . . There be serpents with horns, and some with precious stones. . . . There also be certain animals like an ass, but with tranverse stripes of black and white, such as that one stripe is black and the next white. These animals be wonderfully beautifuL"

It thus appears that the fauna of Somaliland has, for a long time past, been reputed to be varied and exciting. That it still remains attractive to the sportsman goes without saying. Indeed it has been so well explored and described that it is almost an impertinence to add to its literature, of which I have quoted an early specimen. On the other hand there are still so many who want to go there, that even the notes of such a limited trip as mine will perhaps be read.

We thought we had made excellent time in arriving at Bulbar, on the Somali coast, in eight hours less than ten days from London. There is pleasure in making a record, even when it is due to the " legs " of the Caledonia^ and not to one's own. The coast is flat and low, but is backed in the distance by the Golis Range, which had been visible for several hours before we cast anchor. Bulbar is an open roadstead ; and the little steamer Tuna, of unsavoury memory, anchored outside a sandy spit, on which there are nasty breakers when the wind is fresh from the north. It was perhaps a little risky to appoint our camels to meet us here, instead of at Berbera, where they had been purchased, as there was some chance of a landing being rendered impossible; but, as our intended course lay to the west, we risked this, to save three days of monotonous travelling along the shore, and fortune favoured us. The white walls of the Residency and compound showed on the top of the sandy bank, but the greater part of the native town of beehive-shaped huts was hidden by the rise. We had sent on the bulk of our luggage to Berbera some weeks earlier, and, from the sea, a glimpse of the green canvas of one of my tents assured us that our "Kafila" had arrived. At the moment there was no European in the place, but we were received by a crowd of some three hundred Somalis, many of whom swam out to the sandy spit, regardless of sharks, and stood there, waist deep, greeting us with a lively display of splashing. The shore was shelving, and we were carried from the boats, shoulder high, in a sort of armchair, the lady of our party exciting much interest. A multitude of willing hands at once transported our luggage to the Residency. These Somalis are tall and slim, with beautiful coppery skins, and wear the graceful white " tobe," which hangs 'from their shoulders. Their feet are protected by large sandals of skin, shaped like a Canadian toboggan. Maybe this was the origin of Sir John Maundeville's

"marvayle" about Ethiopia — that the "folk have but one foot, 80 large that it shadoweth all the b dy against the sun, when they will lie and rest them." Many were scarred with wounds, for they are a quarrelsome race. The majority carried spears. This is forbidden at Berbera, where they are required to deposit them during their winter residence on the coast, receiving a ticket in exchange — like umbrellas at a picture gallery. They dress their hair every few days with great care, covering it with some earth which abounds in lime, and which gives them the appearance of Belgravian footmen. When the white powder is removed the hair assumes a flaxen hue.

Although the Resident was absent, we were kindly made free of his house, and took full advantage of his cool shelter. Here we found some splendid koodoo heads hanging on the walls, which interested us, as these are the most enviable trophies, and the most difficult to obtain, in Somaliland.

This is the time to mention the personnel of our expedition. We English numbered four, A. E. P. and his wife, A. E. L. , and myself ; Celestin Passet, who for many years has accompanied me on such expeditions; Joseph, who had preceded us to Berbera, and who hails from Syria, is an able camp manager, but in all matters affecting the caravan he understood that the Somali "head-man," Adan Yusuf, was responsible. Adan is a quiet man and looks delicate, but he has a reputation for determination, which we found to be well deserved. Subordinate to him was Abbi, who would act as a second " head-man " if we divided our forces ; then we had six shikaris, two to each gun, three syces to look after the ponies, twenty camel -men, and two Somali "bearers," to adopt the Indian term for servant. Each Somali was called up by name, and we examined him and spoke a few words of caution through the interpreter, according to his functions. "Is this a good syce?" "Will he take care to collect food for his ponies, and see that they do not get sore backs ? " " What Englishmen has he been with ? " etc. Then there were the ponies to gallop, a duty at which Alfred was great, for he loves a good horse. They are weedy little things to look at, but with a fair amount of stamina. We now found that the total of our "truck," which included numerous boxes of provisions for ourselves, and heavy packages of rice, dates, and ghee for the men's rations, cloth for barter, etc., bulked too heavy for the forty camels which had been secured for us. We had also to provide for abundant water-carriage, as the first two or three days across the plain would be waterless; so that, before starting, we undertook an extra deal in camels — not an easy matter in the absence of a responsible interpreter. Adan was our only broker. His English was rudimentary, but he would rather waste a day than let us be cheated. Ultimately we acquired four more camels. Each man's daily ration is 1 lb. of rice, ^ lb. of dates, and 2 oz. of ghee or native butter. If more camels are required more men must be engaged, and extra rations taken, which again involves more camels — a most puzzling problem in arithmetic. I also bought an Arabian trotting camel, for which I had to pay a long price, but which I thought would be useful to carry a mail to the coast, as he could easily cover sixty miles in a day. I may here mentiou that our camels, whicli cost us aVjout forty rupees each, had so risen in value when we returned to the coast, owing to the demands of the Italians for Abyssinia, that, though seven or eight had died, and the rest were half starved, we made a profit on their sale.

During these transactions we were constantly interrupted by Somalis who begged to be taken on, as there is a great competition to enter the service of an Englishman, and many had marched from Berbera on the chance. Hour after hour our chamber was constantly invaded by these gentry, who pressed us to examine their " chits," or written recommendations, and our peace disturbed by the search for some missiDg article. The next morning the same experiences were repeated, so that it was twenty-four hours after our arrival before the camels could be loaded, and that was justly considered to be unusually prompt despatch. At last all was ready, and the final ceremony performed of parading our men and distributing the Snider rifles, which it is de rigetir that the camel-men should carry, but which they are not allowed to load without orders. The shikaris are exempt from this duty, as il is their pride and privilege to carry the sahib's gun, which is invariably kept in brilliant condition.

We mounted our ponies and passed through the native town, which might be taken for a range of small Scotch hayricks. The huts or gurgi are formed of camel mats stretched on a frame of bent sticks. These sticks surmount all the other household goods of a Somali " family removing," and project from the back of the camel like a pair of gigantic horns. Our camels formed a long line in Indian file some hundreds of yards in length. The to keep out an enemy, whether man or beast. When the camels, having finished their meal, are driven into the enclosure and made to lie down in close rank, and their loads of boxes are piled together, there is not much spare room. It is not well to pitch the tents to leeward of the camels, for their odour is powerful at close quarters. On the other hand, except for their noisy chewing, which is like the sound of endless churning, they are quieter at night than the Arabian camel, which, as I believe, snarls in his dreams.

On these expeditions the first dinner is a trial. Care sits at that feast. How anxiously the cook is weighed in the balance. If the potatoes are half-cooked, what a prospect ! In our case the verdict was moderately favourable. The quality of the bed is even more important. We were soon in a position to test that also. Mine proved to be six inches too short. When in camp I generally find it most comfortable to lie on the ground — that is always long enough ; but the probability of white ants, which, I was told, devour anything softer than steel, and of other crawlers, compelled me to use a thing with legs. These same legs soon got rickety, and I got rid of them, and supported my couch on two boxes.

Sentry duty is strictly performed, and the watch changed three times during the night. If I chanced to look out through the open flap, I never failed to find the two white figures, either erect and motionless, or stooping and gently stirring the embers.

The fact that every camel-man has his special load, and knows it, greatly facilitates a rapid start in the seemed to tire that slim, compact figure, and he was always the last to abandon a hunt. Like most of his fellow-countrymen, he showed the scars of past injuries. The most conspicuous was a deep dent in the top of his skull, which looked as if it might have been caused by a pick-axe. There is an excellent little hospital at Berbera, and the authorities told me that the recoveries which these people make are marvellous. The native treatment of wounds is to cauterize them with a hot cinder. After a long day Jama would neither rest nor eat until he had cleaned and polished my rifle, which done, he would bring it to the sircal, as he called me, to look down the barrel, and grin with pleasure when I expressed approval; but his chief delight was to convict me of some act of carelessness. On these occasions he gave me a reproving shake of the head, as much as to say he found me incorrigible.

I began by trying to learn a few Somali words, but I found that my followers picked up my language so much faster than I did theirs, that I generally addressed them in English, eked out by a few Arabic and Somali words. Jama was at first almost devoid of English, but he had one expression — "gone too far" — which was of almost universal application. If game was scarce, or dinner was late, or there was no shade to be found, one and all had " gone too far." In fact it meant generally that things were not satisfactory. The first time he examined my small-bore rifle he declared that that had " gone too far," meaning thereby that it was of no manner of use; but he altered his opinion completely when he observed its electric effl^ct, even on the largest antelopes. When I missed some animal outright the expression annoyed me, it was so true.

Abdullah, the second shikari, was the best looking of my followers. His strong point was skinning the heads which I desired to preserve, and he took a great pride in his taxidermical expertness. It is of importance in this climate that these trophies should be prepared as quickly as possible. I found the best plan was to keep a zinc water-carrier, with a large mouth closed by a screw-top, which LB filled with a solution of carbolic acid, in the proportion of one to fifteen of water. This always stood re'ady, and the " mask " is immersed before any change can take place, and remains in pickle, whether the camp is stationary or marching. At the end of two or three days it should be removed and dried, after which nothing more is necessary but an occasional dressing of turpentine to defeat the countless black beetles. These pests are, however, useful in their way, for they help to clean the skulls, which are laid on the ground for the purpose.

The queerest figure among our followers was my syce. Being very black and ugly, as well as badly disfigured by small-pox, he naturally took a great pride in his hair, which he wore long, and generally in the ochrey stage, as to colour. His other special fancy was a single old lawntennis shoe, which he constantly wore ; no doubt living in the expectation that Allah would, inshallah ! some day send him its fellow. He prized it as if he had bought it at Christie's. An old coloured shawl completed his adornment and gave him the appearance of an aged woman, but he took excellent care of my pony, removing the bridle occasionally so that it could get a bite on the march, and cutting grass for it when food was short. As he did most things at a run, Yeh Awad was frequently in a streaming condition, and the lime in his hair made white water-courses down his black face and body.

During the whole of the second day we continued to cross the " Guban " or maritime plain, which is covered with low scrub, something like that which is called " sage brush " in America. Alfred was soon far out on the right flank, in vain pursuit of a bustard, which I should judge had been shot at before, for I saw through the glass that it had its head up all through his cautious approach. Later in the day I made a successful shot, at long range,, at one of these noble birds. This gave me confidence in my Mannlicher rifle, and, what was of equal importance, raised me in the estimation of my shikari. Small bands of aoul were dotted over the plain. It is impossible to miss seeing them, owing to their broad white sterns. At midday Alfred rejoined us, bringing welcome meat in the shape of a buck aoul. Notwithstanding the rules as to the Reserve, when meat is wanted in camp, necessity compels, and these small antelopes are abundant. Oryx were also seen ; but these were let alone. After about five hours* march search is made for a thorn-tree, which casts a tolerable shade. The camels are unloaded and are free to make a good feed for three or four hours. They are slow eaters, and, unless they are allowed abundance of time for this, soon lose flesh.

The midday halt is always pleasant. It is the only time when there is no hurry. At morning or at evening there is ever something to be done against time. Not that we, or our men, were idle even in the noontide heat.

There were generally skins to be seen to, repairs to be effected, a sore back to be attended to, or a sick Somali dosed. If our followers had nothing better to do, they sat cleaning their teeth with a short stick, cut from a special shrub, which is always used for this purpose. I remember that, at our first luncheon camp, one of my companions, following the custom of many of the natives, submitted his head to be clean shaved. In such like occupations the three hours' halt passes quickly. Besides, it is much the best chance for a square meal. It is not till the sun has sensibly abated its power that we start for the second march, which it is })etter to cut rather short, so that the camels may feed again before dark.

The Gadabursi Mountains, for which we were bound, loomed in front of us, but were heavily covered with rain clouds. We were not sorry for this, as it would mean better feed for our camels, but were less well pleased when the rain reached our camp that night, converting the surface into greasy mud, and caused still more inconvenience to our lightly-clad followers, who sleep in the open. This was the Jeldl, or dry season, so we were somewhat surprised at the visitation. I had brought a few army blankets, which were distributed among the shikaris and other leading men, and was sorry to have to refuse the <5amel-men, who came round in a body, begging a similar favour, for to my great regret I had no more. They retired without a murmur when this was explained to them, and neither then, nor on any subsequent occasion, did we have any insubordination or trouble. On the contrary, it was their pleasure to do us little services not in tlie contract. Cases have no doubt occurred of mutinous conduct, and of demands which are inadmissible, but a great safeguard against this is to pfck your men from various tribes, in which case combination among them is improbable. Our men were always bubbling over with good nature. True, they occasionally quarrelled among themselves. When an insult had been given which could only be wiped out with blood, the two combatantiS would carefully lay aside their rifles, for which they entertained a profound respect, then, falling upon one another, bit and scratched, and rolled on the ground, tiU they were tired.

Owing to the wet, our second night was uncomfortable, but to tell the truth a light sleeper suffers from many disturbances of his rest in Africa. In the first place he generally sleeps in a passage, his tent being open at both ends, and there is an ever present consciousness that it may be used as a thoroughfare by night wanderers, from a hyena to a bat. As a matter of fact, when camping near rocks the bats do constantly so use it, making little disturbing currents of air with their wings. Then there is a large cockchafer, or beetle, which has a mania for climbing up the roof, as if he were a member of the Alpine Club. He is armed with claws with which he laboriously struggles upwards. You can almost hear him panting, and ejaculating the formula well known to A. C.'s, ■*' Encore deux pas et nous sommes sauvfe," or boasting that this was the steepest green canvas slope he ever attempted. Then comes a moment of hesitation. He loses his head and his hold, and comes rasping and scratching past your head, down the tremendous glissade and over the abyss at the bottom. He reaches the ground with a thump, whicb you assume has knocked him out of time. Not a bit of it. In a few minutes he feebly renews his attempt. Most nights there are hyenas round the zareba. It was some weeks later that one of these usually cowardly beasts came in and stole a bridle from under the outer flap of Celestin's tent. He devoured part of it, but the bit was too much for him. If the moon was bright enough I sometimes saw them, and tried a shot, but without success, so far as I know, until one morning, just as it was getting light, a belated hyena was perceived, strolling about among the ponies, who were feeding on a grassy bank a hundred yards ofi: They were perfectly unconcerned and continued to graze. When he noticed the stir in camp he ran and hid behind one of them, but his curiosity getting the better of him, I rolled liim over. This was a very large specimen of the common spotted kind, and measured just six feet from tail to snout.

Our second camp was pitched near some ground cut up by ravines. Here I saw for the first time the gerenook, and the diminutive blue-gray dik-dih The latter is about the size of a newly-born kid, but with attenuated legs scarcely thicker than pencils. If fairly hidden among scrub, this tiny antelope will let a man get within thirty or forty yards, often standing at gaze, its large black eyes and pointed ears just showing over the low bushes. If it thinks itself unobserved it will go oflF at a trot, when its gait and long ears give it the appearance of a miniature donkey. More often it clears the bushes in a series of flying leaps, its thin legs projecting at each bound like a rudder, in line with the back. The longnecked gerenook, or LitJiocranius Walleri^ is a hush feeder like the giraffe, and is built on the same lines, except that the males carry curved horns. The body is on the scale of a small fallow-deer, but such is its length of leg and neck, that the head, when the animal is on guard, is held over six feet from the ground. They are generally found in small families of three or four. The bright chestnut back makes it fairly easy to see even among the bush. On the other hand its sharp sight and length of neck give it a conspicuous advantage against pursuers. At the first sign of danger the gerenook slinks behind the bushes, and peeps over the top as from a small watch-tower. Imagine the strategical advantage you would have in guerilla warfare if you could screw your head on to your umbrella, and gently elevate it till it looked over the parapet, especially if your eyes were placed quite at the top. If they think themselves followed, down go their heads, nearly to the ground, and they retreat at a slouching trot, and keeping completely out of sight. If you can manage to catch sight of one of these animals before he sees you, and that is seldom, do not shoot him, but watch him feeding. You will not have such a chance at the Zoo, for this species has never been brought alive to Europe. When he has consumed what he can reach in a normal attitude, he rears up and stands on his hind legs, assuming a perfectly erect position. With the fore feet, which are carried level with the cheeks, he holds the boughs down, and assists his balance. If he happens to be facing you, so as to show his white belly, the appearance is particularly odd, being that of a tall brown man clad in a white apron. In my opinion the gerenook offers as pretty and difficult stalking as any animal in Somaliland, but they are not

uncommon, and perseverance is sure to receive its reward.

I got a gerenook a few days later, when we had

reached the border of the Reserve, and I have special

reason for remembering it. It was the first-fruits of my

rifle, as far as large game was concerned, and I had

besides a nasty fright over it. The animal had given

me only a doubtful snap-shot, but I fancied, from the

manner of its retreat, that it was hurt. Jama and

I made a detour to a ridge which commanded a ravine

into which it had disappeared. After a good deal of

cautious peering about on my shikari's part, he pointed

out a brown patch among dense thorn bush, which he

said was the gerenook. I could not have told that it was

an animal at all, still less which was the right end, but as

I believed it to be wounded, I fired again quickly, and

Jama indicated by a sign that I had hit him behind the

shoulder, thereby showing an acuteness of eyesight which

to me seemed miraculous. We ran on, and while seeking

the track, became aware of something moving behind a