Sandwich island notes

Front matter

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A -X

Chapter I. From San Francisco To Honolulu

Departure from San Francisco. — A Glance at its Histpry. — Causes of the Change. — Its Future. — Tug-boat "Resolute." — Ship nearly ashore. — The Rescue. — Once more at Anchor Page 17

Chapter II

Daylight and Storm. — "Weigh Anchor. — First Night at Sea. — The next Morning. — Stormy "Petrel." — Impressive Moral. — Dinner during a Gale. — The Ocean in a Storm. — A Child born at Sea. — "New-y ear's" Day. — Sunset in the Tropics. — A Calm on the Ocean. — "Land-ho!" — Landmarks for the Mariner. — Farewell to the "Sovereign" 21

Chapter III

ISLAND OF OAHU. HONOLULU.

Location of Honolulu. — Honolulu, Past and Present — Harbor. — Coral Reefs. — Commerce. — Palace of Kamehameha III. — A Glance at the Monarch. — His Successor proclaimed. — Royal Soirees. — Hawaiian Parliament 31

Chapter IV. Honolulu

The Fort. — Doings of the French. — Mistaken Policy. — Popery a source of Trouble to the Hawaiian Government. — Vattel quoted. — An intoxicated Sailor. — Insane native Woman 45

Chapter V. Honolulu

Public Buildings. — Churches. — Schools. — Benevolent Institutions. — Cemeteries, Foreign and Native. — A Visit to the Royal Tomb 59 viij CONTENTS.

Chapter VI. Honolulu

Society. — Foreign Officials. — Residents, Foreign and Native. — Hawaiian "Women and Dress. — False Charges refuted. — Population. — Police. — Militia. — Hawaiian Guards. — Houses. — Streets. — Street Scenes. — Honolulu at Night. — Saturday Sports. — Sunday in Honolulu Page 74

Chapter VII. Environs Of Honolulu

Nuuanu Valley. — The Pali of Nuuanu. — Former Battle-ground. — Ride to Diamond Head. — Village of Waikiki. — Remains of a Pagan Temple. — Reflections on Paganism. — Leahi, or Diamond Head. — View from the Summit. — The Plains below. — Punch-bowl Hill and its Fortifications. — Panoramic View of Honolulu. — Alia-paakai, or Salt Lake. — Curious Theory relating to it. — Testimony of Commodore Wilkes, U. S. N 90

Chapter VIII. Journey To Kualoa

Plains of Kaneohe. — Konahuanui Mountains. — Geological Features. — Probable Formation. — Site of an old Pagan Game. — A Legend. — Missionary Station at Kaneohe. — Christianized Natives. — "Monthly Concert." — Residence of the Missionary, and Style of Living. — Road along the Sea-shore. — White Man turned Savage. — Singular Coral-reefs. — Fish-ponds. — Women as Laborers. — Driving Hogs to Market. — Simplicity of Native Manners, and Domestic Life. — A solitary Grave. — A Hawaiian Patriarch. — Thoughts on early Races. — A Native Judge. — Taro Plantations. — Taro as an article of Food. — How converted into Poi. — Kualoa. — Sunset. — Night 104

Chapter IX. Journey To Waialua

Road to Ewa. — Repairing Roads. — Paahao Labor. — Natives as Laborers.— A Trial of Patience. — Balaam and his Ass. — The Prophet's Conclusion. — Philosophy of Patience. — A Trial of Speed. — Eva. — Church and Station. — A Patriarchal Missionary. — Ecclesiastical Discipline. — Singular Case of Divorce. — A Night at Eioa 124

CONTENTS. ix

Chapter X. Journey To Waialua

Departure from Ewa. — Old Battle-ground. — Lands of the Princess Victoria. — The Feudal System. — Reform of the Landed System. — Fee-simple Titles. — Necessity of a judicious Taxation. — Off the Road. — Extraordinary Feats in Horsemanship. — Arrival at Waialua. — Mission Station. — Scenery, — How Missionaries extend a Welcome.— Ride to Mokuleia. — The Dairy Business. — Singular Freak in a Native's Costume. — Improvement among Natives. — Native Church. — Popery and Mormonism. — Spurious Baptisms. — Native Cunning. — A novel "Farewell!" Page 135

CHAPTER XL

ISLAND OF KAUAI. ^ FEOM HONOLULU TO KOLOA.

Flogging Scenes at Sea. — Kauai at Daylight. — Aspect of the Shores. — Location of the Island. — Its physical Character. — Koloa and Harbor. — Remarkable Caves. — Singular Phenomenon. — Revolting offer by a Parent 150

Chapter XII

Female Penitentiary. — Character of the Prisoners. — The Jailer. — Statistics of Crime. — Wrong Legislation. — An instance of Fanaticism.— Curious Method to obtain Money. — Sugar Plantations. — Indigo. — Former attempts to cultivate Silk. — Sunday at Koloa. — A Native Preacher. — Specimens of Hawaiian Eloquence. — Liberality of Native Christians 161

Chapter XIII. From Koloa To Llhue

Uplands and Lowlands. — The " Gap." — A Legend. — Scenery. — Lihue. — Sugar Plantations. — Labor. — Na-wili-wili Harbor and River.— Pleasure Party. — The "Stars and Stripes." — Significant Deportment of the Natives. — Remarkable Rock and Cave. — Valley of Cascades. — Moonlight. — Lunar Rainbows IT 9 x CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV. From Lihue To Hanalei

"Wailua Village. — Wailua River. — Objects of Superstition. — Strange Legends. — Falls of Wailua. — Estate of Kumalu. — Reminiscences of a Family. — The Dairy Business. — What sort of Talent is needed. — Policy of Government. — Road to Hanalei. — Settlement of Californians. — Traveling on the Sandwich Islands Page 189

Chapter XV

Valley of Hanalei. — River. — Harbor. — Coffee Plantations. — Early Efforts to cultivate Silk. — Causes of the Failure. — The Spiritual versus the Secular. — Capacity of the Soil. — Extraordinary vegetable Remains. — Evidences of a remote Antiquity. — Excursions. — Storm-stayed. — Fondness of native Women for Dogs. — Delicate Appetite. — Mission Station. — Manual-labor School 201

Chapter XVI

Visit to the Caves at Haena. — Curiosity of the Natives. — The Caves. — Tradition concerning a Chief. — Subterranean Lakes. — Perilous Position. — Story of a Traveler. — Singular Effects produced by Torchlight. — Native Courage and Native Fears. — Terminus of Travel by Land. — A Night at Anahola. — Poi and Bed-fellows 210

Chapter XVII. From Koloa To Waimea

Loho Nomilu. — Legend concerning Pele. — Comparative Mythology. — Novel Method of sounding a Lake. — Noble Specimen of a Hawaiian Woman. — Significancy of Native Names. — Nomilu Salt-works.— Battle-ground of Wahi-awa. — Incidents and Results of the Battle. — Valley of Hanapepe. — A Relic of civilized Law. — Arrival at Waimea 217

Chapter XVIII

Waimea Village — River — Harbor. — Historical Reminiscences. — Charges against Captain Cook. — Visit to an ex-Queen. — A Glance at her History. — Russian Fort at Waimea. — Expulsion of the Russians.— Missionary Church and Station. — Peculiarities of this Station.— A Sabbath at Waimea. — Missionary Labor. — Practice verms Poetry. — The right kind of an Epitaph 227

CONTENTS. xi

Chapter XIX. From Waimea To Kolo

Volcanic Features. — Tobacco Plantations. — Wild Cotton. — Plains and Vegetation. — JVohili, or Sounding Sands. — Probable Theory of Sound. — A Night at Kolo. — Proceedings of a Hawaiian Family. — Kindness to the Traveler. — Poi-making. — Evening Devotions. — Return to Koloa. — Departure from Kauai. — The "Middle Passage."— A Tribute to Neptune. — Recent Steam-boat Project. — Its Importance and Necessity Page 243

Chapter XX. Island Of Molokai

FROM HONOLULU TO KALUAAHA.

Devotions of a Native Crew. — Fondness for Tobacco. — Despotic Strictures.— Convenience of Native Habits in Traveling. — Kaluaaha Mission Station. — Civilization. — Sewing Circles. — Female Costume.— System of Education. — Schools. — Influence of Christianity. — How it is valued. — A Hawaiian Feast. — A Hawaiian Marriage. — Loves of the Hawaiians. — Instance of 255

CHAPTER XXL

JOURNEY TO HALAWA.

Sea-shore Road. — Bullock-riding. — Fondness for Horses. — An Instance of. — Mode of Fishing. — A Hawaiian " Venus." — Scarcity of Singing Birds. — Solitude of the Mountains. — Noble Ku-Jcui Grove. — Halawa Valley. — Descent. — Cascades.-^-The Valley at Sunset. — Cultivation of Taro. — Kindness of a Hawaiian Family. — An Evening Repast. — Fastidiousness of a Native Cook. — A Night at Halawa. — Kapa Sheets. — Manufacture of Kapa, — Population. — Religion. — Morals 269

Chapter XXII

JOURNEY TQ THE. PALIS OF KALAE.

Deserted Villages. — Road over the Mountains. — Ravines. — Cascades. — The Palis. — Sublime Prospect. — Plain of Kalaupapa. — District of Wai-a-la-la.— rNative Morals. — Licentious Dance. — How to study Hawaiian Character. — Deserted Residence. — Broken Resolutions.

xjj CONTENTS.

— Unpleasant Lodgings. — A rough Supper. — Fleas and Musquitoes. — * Wailing" for the Sick. — Refuge in a Chapel. — Return to former Lodgings. — The Scene changed. — Daylight Page 280

Chapter XXIII. Island Of Maui

Lahaina from the Sea. — Lahaina on Shore. — Public Buildings. — Palace. — Fort. — Churches. — Houses. — Beer-shops. — "Fourth of July" at Lahaina. — Police. — Evils of the Police System. — Harbor. — Commerce. — Surf-bathing. — A singular Providence. — Marquesan Chief. — Christian Liberality. — Seminary at Lahainaluna. — Its Location. — Early History. — Present Condition. — Old Hawaiian Gods' , 290

Chapter XXIV. From Lahaina To Wai-lu-ku

Crossing the Mountains. — Isthmus of Kula. — Maui formerly two Islands. — Village of Wai-ka-pu. — Wai-lu-ku and Valley. — Terrific Battle-ground. — Old Battle-ground of Kahului. — Hawaiian " Golgotha."— A Cranium Hunter. — Curiosity of the Natives. — Modern Superstitions. — Doctrine of the Resurrection studied over the Bones of Warriors. — Why the Doctrine is difficult to believe 308

Chapter XXV. East Maui

Makawao. — Sugar Plantations. — Cultivation of Wheat — Indian Corn.-r-The Irish Potato. — Agricultural Lands. — Land Monopoly. — The Non-taxation System. — Kindness of Foreigners to the Traveler. — Ascent of Mauna Hale-a-ka-la. — Atmospheric Regions. — Unexpected and unwelcome Visitors. — Vastness of the Crater. —Sense of Cold!— Splendor of the Sun-light.—" Ossian's" Address to the Sun.— View from the Summit of the Crater. — Glory of the Clouds. — The Soul's Emotions. — Man immortal. — God omnipotent # 31>7

Chapter XXVI. Island Of Hawaii

Trip to Hawaii. — The Schooner Mami-o-ka-wai. — Hawaiian Sailors, — Abuse offered to a Native Woman. — An unpleasant. Position. —

CONTENTS. xiii

A stormy Sunday. — The snow-capped Mountains of Hawaii. — Kawaihae. — Landing-place at Mahu-kona. — Mode of transporting Baggage. — District of Kohala. — Numerous Evidences of ancient Population Page 329

Chapter XXVII

A Visit to the Heiau of Puuepa. — Accursed Despotisms of Paganism. — Wholesale Slaughters.— Testimony of an old Pagan Priest. — Ocular Demonstration. — Solitude of the Ruins. — Public Works of a past Generation. — Graves of a forgotten Race. — Glances at Depopulation.— Causes, Past and Present. — New House of Worship at Iole. — Character of Missionaries. — Friends and Foes. — Importance and Necessity of an impartial Estimate by the Traveler. — Nature and Extent of Hostilities 337

Chapter XXVIII. From Iole To Waimea

Solitude of Native Dwellings. — Volcanic Features. — Groves of the Ti Plant.— Wild Oats. — Plains of Waimea. — More Evidences of Depopulation. — Hawaiian Catacombs. — Byron's Soliloquy on a Skull. — Former Method of Interment among the Hawaiians. — Abuse of the Dead. — A "Plague of Flies." — Comparison of Natives and Foreigners. — Foreigners and Native Wives. — Agriculture. — Sugar Plantations. — A genuine "Yankee." — Raising Stock for the Market 356

Chapter XXIX. Jouuney To The Summit Of Mauna Kea

Cavernous Formations. — Interview with a genuine " Nimrod." — Saw-mills at Hanipoi. — Singing Birds. — Power of Association. — Instances of. — A rough but generous Welcome. — A strange Woman. — Ascent of the Mountain. — Forests. — Wild Cattle. — Fruits and Flowers. — Deceptions in climbing a volcanic Mountain. — Reach the Summit. — Intense Fatigue. — Exquisite Sense of Cold. — Hills of Snow. — A Lunch above the Clouds. — Sound. — Large crateriform Lake. — Apparent Formation of the Mountain. — Extinction of its Fires. — Absolute Solitude.— View from the Summit. — Soliloquy of Byron's " Manfred." — Descent of the Mountain. — Proposed Penance 366 xfr CONTENTS.

Chapter XXX. Journey To Wai-pio

Forests of Acacia. — Gigantic Ferns. — Swamps. — An Instance of native Cruelty. — Valley of Wai-pio. — Descent. — Primitive Character of the Inhabitants. — Explorations. — Cascades. — A Bullock carried over the Falls. — Fastidiousness of native Appetite. — Population. — Agriculture. — Curious Instance of Cupidity. — Eeal Changes. — Scenes at an Evening Repast Page 379

Chapter XXXI. From Wai-pio To Ka-wai-hae

Village of Ka-wai-hae. — Another Pagan Temple. — Cause of its Erection.— False Predictions. — Moral taught by Paganism. — Ravages of the Small-pox. — Solitary Village. — Outrageous Mode of Vaccination.— Preposterous Conduct of the " Board of Health." — Indignation of the Foreign Population. — Testimony of Physicians. — Native Quackery. — Terrible Influences of a certain Superstition. — Total Defeat of a long-cherished Enterprise 389

Conclusion

Origin of the Sandwich Islanders. — The Theory sustained by Tradition.— Habits and Customs, Physical Organization and Language. — Their Past and Present Condition : Social, Political, and Religious. — Probable Destiny of the Race. — Prospective History of Christian Institutions. — Cause for Congratulation. — One Cause of a grand Failure.— -The English Language the only best Channel of Civilization 397

Chapter XXXIII. Annexation Of The Group

Geographical Position of the Sandwich Islands. — Their Value argued from their Position.— Climate.-^Diseases.— Capacity of the Soil.— Importance of the Sandwich Islands to the United States Government—Objections considered.— Recent Movements at the Islands. —Remonstrance of the British and French Consuls.— Reply of the United States Commissioner.— British and French Diplomacy. — British and French Dominion. — Faith of European Nations. — Reasons for "Annexation." — Its Necessity 425

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page Portrait of Prince Alexander Liholiho, Heir-apparent -to the

Crown Frontispiece.

Native House on the Sandwich Islands 83

Hawaiian Female Equestrian 86

Diamond-Head Crater, from East Honolulu, Island of Oahu ... 95

Punch-Bowl Hill, from the Valley of Nuuanu 99

Mode of carrying Burdens 117

Yiew of a Chain of Extinct Volcanoes near Koloa, Island of

Keapaweo Mountain 185

Falls of Wailua 193

View of Hanalei Valley 200

Loko (Lake) Nomilu 218

Waimea Village, from the Fort 229

American Mission Church at Waimea 242

Native Pipe and Necklace 256

Kapa Mallets 279

Native Female — Mode of Sitting 283

Native Man — Mode of Sitting 284

Lahaina, from the Anchorage: Island of Maui 291

Old Hawaiian Gods 307

Village of Wai-lu-ku : Maui 311

Valley of Wai-pio : Island of Hawaii 382

SANDWICH ISLAND NOTES.

Chapter I. From San Francisco To Honolulu

Departure from San Francisco.— A Glance at its History. — Causes of the Change. — Its Future. — Tug-boat "Resolute." — Ship nearly ashore. — The Rescue. — Once more at Anchor.

It was a cold, bleak morning — the 22d of the last month in 1852 — when the "Sovereign of tlie Seas" containing several passengers, weighed anchor and endeavored to escape from the Bay of San Francisco. It was with a feeling of mingled pride and satisfaction that I paced her decks ; for the queenly vessel was steering for strange climes, where the sun was more genial, and the winds less chilly.

On leaving San Francisco, one is forcibly impressed with the proud position the city occupies. The history of its past and present condition is singularly impressive ; and the immense rapidity with which this youthful emporium has sprung into existence, constitutes a miracle even in modern industry and progress. To those who have been accustomed to regard it, only three or four years since, as a small village with a few adobe houses, and a sparse and squalid population, it is a just cause of wonder. Every where the sounds of the artisan's hammer, and the rushing of the various vehicles of commerce, are indicative of untiring perseverance. Even to those who have witnessed the entire progress of San Francisco, so rapid has been the transformation, that the past seems more like the bright, fairy-like visions of an Eastern tale than a tangible reality. After repeated conflagrations, that swept away, in a few hours, what, in older cities and

]_g SANDWICH ISLAND NOTES.

states, would have been deemed the labor and accumulations of many years, and of millions in value, it has sprung up, Phoenix-like, from its own ashes ; and every time it has been hurled to the ground, like the fabled Antaeus, it has gathered fresh strength and developed new resources.

Not only in a physical point of view has San Francisco made such rapid strides onward : the moral progress of the city has kept a corresponding pace. Peace and order prevail. The Sabbath's repose is secured by just and practicable laws — perhaps more so than in many of the older cities of the Union. In no place on earth does Education — that grand Palladium of our liberties — that firm basis on which our Republic reposes — find a warmer advocacy or a better support than there. The heaven-kissing spires of temples erected to the worship of the Most High, every where springing up, as if by magic, afford sufficient proof that the modern order of the San Franciscans are not all worshipers at the shrine of Mammon.

It would be needless to recapitulate the events that have produced this splendid transformation. The most striking feature of all is the medium through which the change has emanated. It is well understood that efforts were made under the old Spanish regime to spread civilization over the territory of California, and that these efforts were in progress during a period of more than two centuries. An oppressive hierarchy had done all that was deemed advisable for the benefit of the Indian neophytes ; but the aboriginal races yet retained their nomadic habits, cherishing a deeply-rooted contempt for the numerous innovations against their savage policy. If any of them had been taught to appreciate the doctrines of their new teachers, that appreciation was based strictly on self-interest ; for they followed them for the sake of temporal gain. If the old Spaniards or the modern Mexicans had discovered the immense wealth that has rendered the territory the veritable "El Dorado" about which so many have dreamed and so much has been fabled in past days, then some Spanish or Mexican historian might have chronicled their own deeds on

THE FUTURE OF SAN FRANCISCO. \Q

that great theatre of modern enterprise. But during the centuries of misrule by an inglorious government, and of darkness amid which a numerous race groveled, the great transforming agency was unknown. It remained for War to pave the way to annexation of the then almost worthless and unknown territory ; and it subsequently remained for Anglo-American mind and enterprise to mould the mighty influences to which the discovery of vast wealth gave birth. It would be superfluous even to glance at the vast exodus of all nations of men to that land of gold. It is sufficient to say, that in no nation on earth do genius and energy put forth strides so mighty as in California, and especially in San Francisco ; and it may be affirmed, with safety, that no community on earth can boast abler men. So much for the agency through which this great change has been achieved, and for the benefits that emanate from the change itself.

Judging of the past, the future of San Francisco is seen with a sort of prophetic vision. Its noble bay — capable of floating the world's navy — is seen covered with the war and the merchant vessels of all nations ; the streets, extended miles beyond their present length, are beheld teeming with the almost countless thousands of a busy population. In a future period, and at no great distance of time, such luxury, wealth, intelligence, and magnificence will centre in San Francisco, as a city, as have never been surpassed in any city on the globe. At that period, the state will be in advance of any state in the Union; for it will be the great depot between the East and "West, and will sit empress over the North Pacific, sending its mighty pulsations back to the Orient, whence civilization originally sprung.

This digression was passing in my own mind while the gallant little steam-tug "Resolute" was towing our brave vessel down the waters of the bay ; and although such a digression has not the slightest connection with any of the Polynesian Islands, it is perfectly natural to a person who has spent any length of time in San Francisco, and is about leaving it for a distant port.

The " Resolute" had already towed us to the north side of the Bay, and was on her way back to the city. A smart breeze, that induced us to button up our overcoats, was wafting along our gallant ship at the speed of ten or eleven miles an hour. We were about bidding a short adieu to the entrance of the Bay, for the ship was on her last " tack." Many were the remarks made concerning the islands to which we were going. A few of the passengers had visited them before. One of our number was a gentleman who displayed some facetiousness. He asserted " that the people on the Sandwich Islands never died : on the contrary, they lived to such an advanced age, that they dried up, and the wind blew them away !"

But his pleasantries were speedily brought to a close. The " Sovereign" was steering very near the base of Point Boneta, when suddenly the wind left her sails, and she was swept, by a heavy tidal current, to the middle of the channel. The monster clipper was too lightly manned ; and before any thing could be done efficiently to arrest the danger that threatened her, she was within a few yards of the rocks that lay strewn directly under the guns of Fort Lobos. There was something horrible in the prospect of going ashore upon that beach, where several valuable cargoes and splendid vessels had previously been dashed all to pieces. The " Sovereign," which a few moments before was worth more than one hundred thousand dollars, was apparently worthless in that critical moment. Nothing but an immediate plunge of the anchor saved her, her cargo, and her passengers ; and even then, every surge of the strong waves pressed her nearer to the shore, so that her rudder thumped the sunken rocks. In addition to all this, there was a strong probability of a rough night.

But as night was rapidly approaching, and hope expiring, a favorable breeze sprung up, and the flood tide set in from the ocean. Taking the advantage of so favorable a state of things, the cable was slipped, and we left the breakers without having received any material injury. It was a pleasant thing thus to be rescued from the very jaws of destruction,

ONCE MORE AT ANCHOR. %\

especially when every thing seemed to have conspired against us.

It was not until we had returned some distance up the Bay, and were once more at anchor, that we could realize the danger from which we had just escaped. The sun went down to his repose angry and red, and the skies were gathering blackness. While we cherished an unspeakable gratitude for our deliverance, we could not help glancing at the stormy heaven ; and the words of Moore, in his Fire Worshipers, exactly suited us :

" The day is lowering — stilly black Sleeps the grim wave, while heaven's rack, Dispersed and wild, 'twixt earth and sky Hangs like a shattered canopy.

There's not a cloud in that blue plain

But tells of storms to come or past ; Here, flying loosely as the mane

Of a young war-horse in the blast ; There, rolled in masses dark and swelling, As proud to be the thunder's dwelling I While some, already burst and riven, Seem melting down the verge of heaven ; As though the infant storm had rent

The mighty womb that gave it birth, And, having swept the firmament,

Was now in fierce career for earth."

Chapter II

Daylight and Storm. — Weigh Anchor. — First Night at Sea. — The next Morning. — Stormy "Petrel." — Impressive Moral. — Dinner during a Gale. — The Ocean in a Storm. — A Child born at Sea. — "New-year's" Day. — Sunset in the Tropics. — A Calm on the Ocean. — "Land-ho!" — Landmarks for the Mariner. — Farewell to the "Sovereign."

During the preceding night we had rode safely at anchor. The next morning, however, dawned on a most uninviting scene. It was blowing a gale ; and the heavy rains and mists so obscured the Bay, that we could see only a short distance from our anchorage. The winds were peculiarly chilling and unpleasant, as they swept down from the snow-clad summit of Monte Rapael, the northern limit of the Golden Gate. Most sincerely did we long to be on our way to another clime, where we might escape the cold and relentless frowns of winter.

About noon of the 23d that wish was gratified. The storm-clouds began to disperse. The winds suddenly moderated. A slight shower of rain passed over us, reflecting an iris of singular beauty. Glorious emblem of hope to the earth and man ! It cheered every spirit, and infused new strength into every heart, and we regarded it as an omen of an auspicious voyage.

By 1 P.M. we weighed anchor once more. The tide was running out, and, taking advantage of it, we glided out of the Bay. Before sunset our pilot was discharged, and we stood out to sea. Night overtook us just as the surf-beaten shores of California sunk behind the wave. The sea-fowls had retired to their nests in the cliffs, and the rays of the distant light-house had faded away in the dim distance. It was now, with the wide Pacific stretched out before her, that our splendid vessel displayed her true character as a sea-boat. She seemed to feel a sort of consciousness of her duty : " She walked the waters like a thing of life ;" or she seemed more like an impatient steed struggling to escape from her rider. To her the foam-crested billows appeared to be familiar playthings, for she dashed them aside, and proudly defied their strength and fury.

After having remained for some time on shore — no matter to what extent a person has previously traveled by water — there is always something inexpressibly solemn and spiritmoving in the Jlrst night at sea. The land is gone — as though it had sunk beneath the bosom of the insatiate deep. Darkness obscures the face of the mighty waters, and even the sky ; but anxious faces come peering through the gloom. The soft tones of the last "farewell," with its deep and thrilling im-

THE NEXT MORNING. 23

port ; the warm grasp of the friendly hand, as if loth to part with your own — these, and many other things, rush vividly back on the wings of memory, and you are constrained to look back and converse mentally with much that is past. Heaven reveals the gems that burn on its portals, and you seem to drink in, by a spiritual communion, the eternity of their glory and their years. The moon, perhaps, mounts her chariot, and sheds a serene light over the lap of the ocean. Then a dark, fugitive cloud rushes past, as if to dispute her rightful empire. Suddenly you realize, or try to realize, the fact that the vast, and hoary, and eternal deep is before you. You are buoyed up above its dark caverns, where things of beauty and slimy monsters take refuge from the scrutiny of man. You are on the brink of the unseen world; you are close to the very presence of the Unsearchable ; you are within less than a stone's throw of that goal — the grave ! — which has entombed the long list of the defunct of Adam's progeny; and there you are kept from a penetration of all that makes mankind true scholars and philosophers by the thickness of a single plank ! _ Perchance a storm may rush forth from its hiding-place at the hour of midnight, and awaken the deep in its fearful power. The Infinite himself leaves his foot-prints on the heaving billow, or he moves past on the wings of the tempest. It is then, and there, that a man feels his own utter helplessness. Night and storm on the wide world of waters is the best school in which a man learns to read his own nothingness. Your sleep, even if you should escape the too common lot of voyagers, sea-sickness, is, in all probability, any thing but that which merits the name of sleep. There is a sort of sympathy in your mind with winds and waves, and also with beloved faces that come peering in upon you. A great lesson to the contemplative mind is the first night at sea.

There is scarcely any association that is more saddening than the morning that succeeds the first night on the ocean. On ascending the deck, and seeing nothing but sky and ocean, a sort of solitude thrills the voyager's bosom; and he feels, for a time at least, as though his companionship and all his interests had fled back to the shores he has just left. As he gazes across the deep, as if to catch a glimpse of the land, the solitude is unbroken ; but his eye becomes more reconciled to the scene before him ; his spirit drinks in the imposing grandeur of that most magnificent of all elements — the ocean. Our first morning at sea was one that seemed to wield a spell over the entire being. Not a cloud obscured the sky. The ascending sun shed an almost supernal glory on the multitude of waves that danced around the ship, as though they were thrilled with life. It is amid such scenes, and with the boundless deep before him, that a man feels as if he were impelled onward by some mysterious destiny. He is not certain at what shore the vessel may arrive. Amid the uncertainties of nautical life, he may steer for the port of destination, and reach it ; or some relentless tempest may wreak its wrath upon the strong-ribbed craft, and leave her a floating wreck, at the mere mercy of currents and winds, to find her way — heaven only knows where. It is no wonder, then, that a man under such circumstances feels as though he had shaken hands with Destiny. Nor is the " self-exiled Harold" the only man who has said,