Retrospect of thirty-six years residence in Canada West : being a Christian journal and narrative

Preface

On writing a Missionary Journal and Narrative of 36 years’ residence in Western Canada, down to 1861, I give thanks to Almighty God for such length of years, whilst many of those who were my contemporaries have passed to the grave, and their spirits to God who gave them.

As early as the year 1825, the writer of this Narrative, jointly with the Rev. James Harris, of York, wrote to the Rev. Dr. Brown, of Dalkeith, (by request,) giving him an account of the destitution of the early Presbyterian settlers in the forests of Western Canada, in relation to the ordinances of God, and the blessings of the Gospel. This communication was presented to the Presbyterian Synod of Edinburgh, and received the response that they had not the funds to enable the Synod to send Missionary Labourers to this New Vineyard. The Church of Scotland we understood was also applied to, without success.

Seven years passed away before a vital interest was manifested, either by the Kirk of Scotland, or by the above named Synod. True it is, that from 1817 to 1830, there were a few Presbyterian Ministers labouring in the forests of Western Canada, sowing the seed of the

IV.

PREFACE.

Word, and gladdening the souls of not a few who had kept the solemn holy days in their native lands. The names of those Ministers will appear in our pages.

This Journal of personal labours and privations 1 present to a generous Canadian public, trusting that they will receive the simple but truthful narrative of my early Missionary labours in the true spirit of Christian charity — overlooking any inaccuracy or inelegancy in the literature thereof, and accepting it as a brief statement of facts, which may furnish materials for unbounded thankfulness to an Almighty God, when a comparison is drawn between the Gospel ways and means in Canada during that dreary period, and the abundant ways and means which are now everywhere to be found in our highly Gospel-favoured and prosperous land.

Extracts are taken from Smith’s well-approved Gazetteer of Canada West, respecting the early settlement of Canada ; also a short account of the location of Indians in the Province, formerly in their heathen, and now many of them in their Christianized state. I am also indebted to Charles A. Goodrich for his lengthened account of the British War with the French and Indians in North America, ending in 1763 ; and to Thomas S. Shenston’s “ Oxford Gazetteer”; also to Dr. Lillie’s volume on Canada,

Hamilton, October , 1861.

Chapter Third. — Missionary Journey from York, Westward, to Lake Erie, London, k c., &c 22

Chapter Fourth. — Journey to the Eastern Townships, and to those North on Lake Simcoe, Penetanguishene Road, &c., &c 29

Chapter Fifth. — Journey W'est to the Grand River, the Long Point country, situated on Lake Erie, and to the Township of Zorra, &c. 50

Chapter Sixth. — A short account of the War between Great Britain and France, in Canada and the American Colonies, commonly called u The French and Indian War,” commencing in 1756, and ending by the Treaty of Paris in 1763 67

Chapter Seventh. — Journey to the Northern Townships on Lake Huron, the Indian Villages on Cold water and the Narrows of Lake Simcoe, &c., k c eo 101

Chapter Eighth. — Missionary Journey to the Western Townships, situated on Lake Erie, and the River Thames. Also, as far West as Lake St. Clair, &c... . 115

Chapter Ninth.-- -Journey to the Northern Townships, and a second visit to the Indians located at Coldwater, and the Narrows of Lake Simcoe 158

Chapter Tenth.- — Gave into the Presbytery my Report, and took a Journey West for two weeks, to visit the Townships of Toronto, Esquesing, &c 180

Chapter Eleventh. — Journey to the East, on a visit to the Townships of Whitby, Reach, West Gwillimbury,

Chapter Twelfth. — A short account of Hamilton, Niagara River and Falls. Also, of some Towns, North and West, k c., k c 242

OF THIRTY-SIX YEARS’ RESIDENCE IN CANADA WEST.

Chapter First. Missionary Journey From Lake Ontario To Lake Huron — And Return

Having been appointed, and set apart by prayer, as Catechist and Exhorter, by the Presbytery of York (now Toronto), in connection with the Church of Scotland, to visit the destitute settlers in the Western Section of Upper Canada, I commenced my journey on Tuesday, the 17th day of July, 1832, up Yonge Street, one of the most public roads of the Province, leading north from Lake Ontario to Lake Simcoe.

On Wednesday I crossed the Oak-ridges, a chain of hills running from west to east. Next day I remained in the Township of Whitchurch, and called a public meeting for exhortation and prayer ; sung a portion of the 90th Psalm, and delivered a short lecture from a few verses in the first chapter of the Book of Romans. Two experienced Christians joined me in the exercise of prayer, and I trust there was something of the true spirit of prayer with us. Without prayer, as without faith, it is impossible to please God.

u Prayer is appointed to convey

The blessings God designs to give :

Long as they live should Christians pray ;

They learn to pray when first they live/’

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Friday, 20th July. — I travelled through the Quaker Settlement, on my way to West Gwillimbury ; there I met with the Rev. Matthew Miller, one of the first missionaries from home, sent by the Kirk of Scotland, and I have no doubt but that he was especially intended to do much missionary labor in the forest, before becoming the pastor of a congregation. On the same afternoon the Rev. Mr. Miller preached in the new Church — subject Matt v. 9 : “ Blessed are the peace-makers ; for they shall be called the children of God.” A happy meeting; the Word was heard with gladness. He was indeed a good preacher, and his heart was in the work. The proclamation of the Gospel of the Lord Jesus Christ was, is and shall be — “ Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good-will toward men.” — “■ Great peace have they which love* thy law, and nothing shall offend them ; Psa. cxix. 165. “ There is no peace,

saith the Lord, unto the wicked Isa. xlviii. 22.

On Sabbath, July 22nd, I met with the Sabbath School children and youths ; examined them out of the Shorter Catechism and on the 20th chapter of the Book of Exodus. This meeting was the more interesting as I had taught Day and Sabbath School in this Settlement in the year 1827, and now I observed a considerable advance in scriptural knowledge. Questions and answers were given in both languages — viz. Gaelic and English. The Sabbath School was conducted by Mr. John Mafthewson, (an excellent translator of sermons into the Gaelic tongue, at their Sabbath day meetings.) It will be subsequently noticed that several of these Highland settlers formed part of the colony planted by Lord Selkirk at Red River.

Monday, 23rd.- — Took my journey from West Gwillimbury to the Township of Essa. The day was very hot, but my mind was strengthened for the work to be done. Tra-

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veiled up the Town Line of Tecumseth, and crossed a swamp of considerable extent. The settlers in Essa were made glad to receive me, and a public meeting for exhortation and prayer was immediately appointed.

Tuesday, 24th, 3 o’clock. — About thirty persons met for worship. Sung the one hundredth Psalm, and delivered a lecture to a most attentive Presbyterian people. Re-organized their Sabbath School, which since works well.

Wednesday, 25th. — Left this Township with feelings of love and regard, trusting that the Lord would bless his Gospel spoken to them. Travelled east, and came into the Township of Innisfil, upon the Penetanguishene road. This Township is rough, cedar swamps prevail, and few locations therein ; it borders on Lake Simcoe. Called upon a family and fixed upon a meeting on my return. Lodged for the night at Warnica’s Inn, a Dane from Copenhagen ; he speaks English in a tolerable way — has a good address, and no doubt has often administered to the necessity and comfort of the weary traveller in the forest, with or without pay. More of my kind host next journey.

Thursday, 26th. — Being carefully directed through the woods, and round the point of Kempenfeldt Bay, X got through this matchadash (rushes, mud, and water,) and safely landed in the opened forest, where the town of Barrie now stand, so named after Commodore Barrie. I was now informed that I would find the way to Penetanguishene much better — running for the most part along a stony ridge of land. At noon called on Mr. John Bruce and wife, Scotch Presbyterians, and arranged for a meeting for public worship on my return. Myself and horse having been refreshed and fed, I began my ride for the Establishment, a distance of 28 miles through the forest, with here and there a settler. The afternoon was very fine-r— the woods

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beautiful, the roads narrow and winding — streams of clear water making their way to the north-east — the beams of the declining sun gilding the slopes and ravines below — the happy birds with little song — and the lovely forest flowers in all their prime — afforded a scene at once delightful and cheering. Night coming on in the forest, I had fortunately informed myself that a family I had known on Yonge Street were settled on the road before me. I was kindly received by them. Our family worship was more than ordinarily refreshing. When there is less of the world around us, sometimes the worship of God and a divine influence is more sensibly felt.

Friday, 27th.— Appointed a Sabbath morning service here for a few settlers, and rode to Penetanguishene village, seven miles. This place appeared to be inconsiderable, yet much business in furs, fish, &c., is transacted in the course of a year. Visited the Government establishment, two miles from the village. The village was commenced in the year 1818, the Government having then formed a naval and military -depot on the bay in the Township of Tay.

The Establishment is an interesting place, with large barracks, yet only a small military company kept. Found stationed here a company of the 79th Regiment (Scotch.) Fixed on a public service in the barracks, on Sabbath afternoon at 3 o’clock.

Sabbath, 29th July. — Engaged with some families in worship this morning, seven miles back upon the road. On the afternoon returned to the Establishment and commenced our public worship upon the banks of Lake Huron. Gave out the 100th Psalm, to be led by the military — a Psalm so often and so well sung in Scotland — and it was gone through with good effect. At the conclusion of the service, several persons expressed their high satisfaction,

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and stated that it was the first Presbyterian sermon they had heard on the banks of the Great Lake.

Monday, 30th. — On taking my departure, with the promise that I would visit them again in three months, they made a collection, and presented to me four pounds eighteen shillings, Currency. This donation for the Gospel was accomplished by the agency of Lieutenant Matthewson, his * amiable wife, and Sergeant MeDowal. With the exception of the settlers of Penetanguishene, the inhabitants of this locality are principally half French, and half Indian. Eeported to the Presbytery their desire to have a Missionary appointed to this northern section of the Province. This afternoon, after crossing the small river Wey, I had a narrow escape from the falling of a pine tree, right across the road, not five yards before me— the day was remarkably pleasant and no wind. I thought upon the 107th Psalm :

11 0 that men to the Lord would give Praise for his goodness then,

And for his works of wonder done Unto the sons of men.”

August 1st. — Had a meeting in the evening for exhortation and prayer, in the Township ofVespra; next day visited three families.

Sabbath, 5th. — Visited a Sabbath School, and delivered an address to the children and youth ; much attention paid and good conduct exhibited. Two o’clock. — Agreeably to notice, a considerable number of persons assembled for public worship. Delivered a lecture from the Parable of the Sower — Luke viii. 5. This was a cheering Sabbath to not a few in this location of the forest, and especially to those who had kept the solemn holy days in their native land,

11 Pray that Jerusalem may have Peace and felicity :

Let them that love thee and thy peace,

Have still prosperity.”

RETROSPECT.

Monday Morning. — Left the hospitable roof of Mr. B., after commending ourselves to the grace of God, by reading and prayer, and took my course south to Lake Simcoe, then rounded Kempenfeldt Bay — and night coming on, I had again to lodge at Warnica’s Inn.

Tuesday, 7th August. — Kept an appointment this day at Mr. B. McKay’s, Innisfil. The settlers came well out, and our service proved acceptable. Same evening rode 12 miles into the Township of West Gwiilimbury.

Wednesday. — I spent part of this day with Mr. John Matthewson, in conversation upon the state of the Church. Yisited the Township of Tecumseth ; the Presbyterians there seem determined to hold with the U. P. Church.

Thursday Evening. — I attended the Church in West Gwiilimbury, for prayer.

Friday. — Crossed the Holland river, on my way to Newmarket, and from thence travelled north on Queen street. Slept at Mr. Night’s ; he wished me to have a public meeting there next journey.

Sabbath, 12th. — Held a public service in the Township of Georgina, at Mr. Bobertson's. There was a tolerable attendance ; several of the people had had some advantages of Gospel instructions. The Township had been visited by Methodist preachers, sowing the seed of God’s Word. I was desired to visit some sick persons, and found with some of them a deep concern for the salvation of their souls. In one case our mutual conversation was very affecting, in another it was joyful ; the latter invalid was, I think, a Christian indeed.

Monday. — Passed the Black river, and entered the Township of Thorah, bounded on the west by Lake Simcoe. Travelled on through these dark and lonely woods — the elements conflicting with each other in thunder and light-

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ning, wind and rain ; yet I got safe to Mr. Calder’s, wliere I intended to call the settlers together to hear the words of eternal life.

Tuesday. — Had a good public service of the blessed Gospel, with some intelligent Christians of the Scotch Church. Our subject was — “ The shortness of Time.’5 “ The certainty of Death and Judgment.” Wrote to the Rev. W. Rintoul, Clerk of the Presbytery, by private hand.

Wednesday, 15th August. — Crossed the Talbot River, and entered the Township of Eldon, bounded on the north by forest unsurveyed — the Township of Mariposa joining on the south. These were new townships, and had only a few settlers yet. Visited some families, made an appointment for Friday evening, and had much comfort in the meeting.

Sabbath, 19th. — Assembled the young people and children on the forenoon at the school house, situated between Thorahand Eldon ;• catechised and instructed them, closing with an address to the parents present. On the afternoon delivered a lecture to a good attendance of people.

Monday.— Left these two Townships, and entered the Township of Brock ; same evening met with several persons for conversation and prayer. There is great need here for a stationed Pastor. Travelled through the woods of Brock into the Township of Uxbridge, and slept at Plank’s Tavern. Next day had a long and dreary ride through the forest, of twelve miles, without seeing a house or a settler. Uxbridge is bounded on the east by the Township of Reach, west by Whitchurch and Markham. The face of the forest is broken and intersected with ridges ; yet, blessed be God (in the Gospel), Methodist preachers have been doing a good work here. Came into Whitchurch, and I was most comfortably refreshed and lodged with my

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friends, Mr. and Mrs. Edmondson, of Union Street. Our conversation was upon the great truth of the Gospel — the Divinity and Incarnation of Christ.

Wednesday. — Visited Mr. and Mrs. Stewart, aged persons, from Scotland, and from the parish of Peebles.

Friday Evening. — Held a meeting in Whitchurch, on Yonge Street.

Sabbath, 26th. — Went into the Township of King, and attended the Sabbath School; observed considerable improvement in the scholars since my last visit. Public meeting for worship at two o’clock, and delivered a lecture from the first nine verses of First Epistle of Peter, 1st ch.— associated with some early Christian friends. Here I closed my first Missionary labors northward to Lake Huron; gave thanks to the God of our Fathers and our God, and took courage.

Remarks.— Visited, on my mission to the North, sixteen Townships, several of which are situated on the Penetanguishene road. Travelled altogether in this Northern section of the Province about three hundred miles— parts of which were just opening up from the forest, by the uplifted axe, the strong arm, and energetic mind of the settler.

It was my design to visit the Indian location at Matchedash Ray, and at the Narrows of Lake Simcoe, but circumstances prevented me till next journey.

RETROSPECT.

Chapter Second

SHORT ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT OF CANADA, FROM 1535 TO 1749.

The first settlement made by Europeans in Canada, was in 1535, by Jacques Cartier, a French navigator, who sailed up the river of Canada, (which he named the St. Lawrence,) as far as the island of Montreal, where he found a settlement of Huron Indians, called Hoehelaga, to which island he gave the name of Mount Royale — afterwards called Montreal. He took possession of the territory, which he called New France — built a fort — and wintered in the country. On this expedition he carried off a chief of the natives, and conveyed him to France, where he lived about four years, was converted to Christianity, and died there.

In 1540, an expedition, consisting of five ships, under the command of Cartier, was fitted out by command of Francois de la Roque, Lord of Robervall, who had been appointed Viceroy of Canada by the King of France ; and who himself intended to follow with two additional ships. His departure, however, was postponed till the year 1542. When he arrived in Canada, he built a fort, and wintered about four leagues above the island of Orleans. In 1549, the same nobleman, accompanied by his brother, and a numerous train of adventurers, again embarked for Canada ; but they were never afterwards heard of, which so discouraged the government and people of France, that for more than thirty years no further measures were taken to communicate with the settlers who remained in Canada.

RETROSPECT.

In 1576, Martin Frobisher was sent out by Queen Elizabeth, with three small ship3, and discovered Elizabeth Foreland, and the straits which still bear his name. He entered a bay in north latitude 63°, and carried off one of the natives. In this voyage he discovered what he supposed to be gold, which encouraged a society of adventurers to send him out the following year, with three other ships, to explore the coast of Labrador and Greenland with an ultimate view of discovering a passage to India ; but he returned without success. He brought away with him nearly two hundred tons of the ore supposed to be gold ; which, however, to their disappointment, turned out to be some other mineral. In 1578, he sailed again for the continent of North America, with no less than fifteen ships, in search of gold ; and carried home immense quantities of the same glittering substance, to the complete ruin of many of the adventurers.

In 1581, the French trade to Canada was renewed, after an interruption of more than thirty years ; and in 1583, three ships were employed in the trade to the continent.

In 1598, the Marquis dela Roche received a commission from Henry the Fourth, of France, to conquer Canada ; but returned without doing anything of consequence ; and shortly afterwards died of vexation. On the death of La Roche, his patent was renewed in favour of M. De Chauvin, who made a voyage up the St. Lawrence, as far as Tadousac ; where he left some of his people, and returned with a freight of furs. The following year he sailed again, and proceeded as far as Trois Rivieres. In 1603, Pierre du Gast, a gentleman of the bed-chamber to the same King, received a patent, constituting him Lieutenant General of the American territory, from the fortieth to the forty-sixth degrees of north latitude, with power to colonise it, and

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subdue and convert the natives to Christianity. In 1608, Champlain was sent out with three ships for the purpose of making a permanent settlement ; and after having examined all the most eligible situations along the coast of Nova Scotia, (then called Acadia), and the River St. Lawrence, fixed upon the present site of Quebec, where he laid the foundation of what he intended to be the future capital.

In 1627, in the reign of Louis XIII., Canada, then called New France, was, by direction of Cardinal Richelieu, placed together with its trade, under the management of a company, called the “Company of One Hundred Associates,1’ at the head of which was the Cardinal himself. A commission having been given by Charles I. to David Kertk, and his kinsmen, to conquer the American dominions of France ; Kertk attacked Canada, in July, 1628, and continued to carry on his military operations with vigour. In 1630, he appeared again off Point Levi, and sent an officer to Quebec to summon the city to surrender. Champlain, then in command, knowing his means to be inadequate to a defence, surrendered the city by capitulation. The terms of the capitulation were favourable to the French colony ; and they were so punctually and honourably fulfilled by the English, that the greater part of the French chose to remain with their captors, rather than return as had been stipulated to France. In 1632, Charles I., by the treaty of St. Germain, resigned the right which he had claimed to New France and Acadia, as the property of England, to Louis XIII, King of France.

In 1635, ReneRohault, having become a Jesuit, resumed a project which had been interrupted by the English conquest of Quebec, of founding a college in that uity ; an institution that had been planned ten years before. In this year, M. Champlain died at Quebec.

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In 1640, the French king vested the property of the island of Montreal in thirty-five Associates, of whom Maisonneuve, a gentleman of Champaign, was one ; and who on the 15th October, 1641, was declared governor of the island ; and brought over with him several families to Montreal .

The French in their trade with the neighbouring Indians, being much obstructed by the Mohawks, then a powerful tribe, and being unable to subdue them without assistance, in 1647, sent M. Marie, a Jesuit, as an agent to solicit aid from Massachusetts, with offers of liberal compensation for assistance, which the government of the English colony refused, on the ground that the Mohawks had never injured them.

In the following year, the colonists of Newfoundland sent to the Governor and Council of Canada a proposal of perpetual peace between the colonies, even though the mother countries might be at war. Although the French were much pleased with the proposal, and anxious to conclude an agreement of the kind, the business terminated without success because the English were firm in their determination not to assist the French against the Iroquois, (or Five Nations.) In 1649, in the month of March, a party of Iroquois, about one thousand in number, attacked the Huron village of St. Ignatius, containing four hundred persons, all of whom, with the exception of three only, were massacred.

About five years afterwards, the Eries, a numerous tribe of Indians inhabiting the borders of Lake Erie, were so effectually exterminated by the Iroquois, that were it not for the name of the lake, we should have no memorial of their existence.

In 1665 M. de Courcelles, being appointed governor of New7 France, transported the regiment of Calignan Sailer es

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to Canada : it consisted of one thousand foot, and they were accompanied besides by numerous families, with mechanics, hired servants, horses (the first ever seen in Canada), cattle and sheep. The one hundred associates in whom the property of the colony was vested, had grown weary of the expense of maintaining the colony, and from the year 1644 abandoned the fur trade to the inhabitants, reserving to themselves as their right of lordship an annual payment of one thousand beavers. Reduced at length to the number of forty-five associates, they made a total resigation of all their rights in 1662, to the French King, who soon afterwards included New France in the grant which he made of the French colonies in America, in favour of the West India Company formed by the great Colbert.

The Mohawks having greatly annoyed the French, were attacked in the following year by a French army of twentyeight companies of foot, and the whole militia of the colony.

This formidable body of troops marched upwards of seven hundred miles, in the depth of winter, from Quebec into the country of the Mohawks, with a view of utterly destroying them ; but the Indians retired with their women and children into the depth of the woods, leaving only a few ancient sachems in the villages, who chose rather to die than desert their habitations. These were murdered by the French, and their villages burnt, but nothing was gained by the expedition. In the following year, peace was at length established between the French and the Five Nations, which continued for several years, and they cultivated a mutual trade. In 1770 the small-pox broke out amongst the Indians in the northern parts of Canada, and swept off whole tribes, particularly the tribe of Atlikamegues, which has never since been heard of. Tadusac, the chief mart of the Indian fur trade with the French, was deserted, as

Bl

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was also Trois Rivieres, where the small-pox carried off 1,500 Indians at once. In 1671, a grand congress of the French and of many Canadian Indians was held at the Falls of St. Mary ; where the Indians professed submission to the king of France in a formal manner. In 1672, M. de Courcelles, governor of Canada, commenced building a fort on the north side of the outlet of Lake Ontario (near where Kingston now stands), as a barrier against the Iroquois, which was completed in the following year by Count Frontenac, who called it after his own name. The French likewise built a fort at Michilimackinac. In 1674 Quebec was made a bishopric. In 1678 M. de Sale rebuilt the fort Frontenac with stone ; he also launched a bark of ten tons on Lake Ontario, and in the year following another vessel of sixty tons on Lake Brie ; about this time he also enclosed a little spot of ground at Niagara with stockades intended for a fort. In 1683 the French erected a fort between the lakes Erie and Huron ; and in the following year M. de la Barre with a large army from Canada made an unsuccessful expedition into the country of the Five Nations, and found it necessary to conclude his campaign with a treaty. He was met at a place appointed by the Oneidas, Onandagas, and Cayugas ; the Mohawks and Senecas refusing to attend. Seated in a chair of state, surrounded by his own Indians, principally the Hurons of Lorette, and the French officers, he addressed himself to Graranguia, an Onandaga chief, in a very haughty speech, which he concluded with a menace to burn the castles of the Five Nations, and destroy the Indians, unless the satisfaction which he demanded was given. Garangula, who sat at some little distance before his men, with his pipe in his mouth, and the great Calumet of peace before him, did nothing but look at the end of his pipe during this harangue : when it was finished, after walking

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five or six times round the circle in silence, he stood perfectly upright, and thus addressed the French general : — “ Onnuntio, I honor you, and all the warriors who are with me honor you. Your interpreter has finished your speech, I now begin mine : my words make haste to reach your ears ; hearken to them. Onnuntio, in setting out from Quebec, you must have imagined that the scorching beams of the sun had burned down the forests, which rendered our country inaccessible to the French, or that the inundations of the lakes had shut us up in our castles ; but now you are undeceived, for I and my warriors have come to assure you that the Senecas, Cayugas, Onandagas, Oneidas and Mohawks are yet alive.’’ After ascribing the pacific overtures of the general to the impotence of the French, and repelling the charges brought against his countrymen, he thus concludes : “ My voice is the voice of all the Five Nations ; hear what they say ; open your ears to what they speak. The Senecas, Cayugas, Onandagas, Oneidas and Mohawks say, that when they buried the hatchet at Cataraqui, in the presence of your predecessor, in the very centre of the fort, and planted the tree of peace in the same place, it was then agreed that the fort should be used as a place of rendezvous for merchants, and not as a refuge for soldiers. Hear, Onnuntio, you ought to take care that so great a number of soldiers as appear now, do not choke the tree of peace, planted in so small a fort, and hinder it from shading both your country and ours with its branches. I do assure you that our warriors shall dance to the Calumet of peace under its leaves, and that we will never dig up the axe to cut it down, until the Onnuntio or the Corlar shall either jointly or separately endeavour to invade the country which the Great Spirit has given to our ancestors. This belt confirms my words, and this other the authority which the Five Nations have given me.”