Narrative of a residence in Algiers: comprising a geographical and historical account of the regency; biographical sketches of the dey and his ministers; anecdotes of the late war; observations on the relations of the Barbary States with the Christian powers

Front matter

*1 iHWi

NARliATIVE

OF

Chapter I

Memoirs. — Origin of the Voyage.— Fatal Delay. — Thames.— The Ocean.— Continuance of the Voyage. — Rencontre. — Coast of Fez.— Straits and Bay of Gibraltar. — Passage up the Mediterranean. — Arrival at the Island of San Pietro '

Chapter II

Imprudent Departure from San Pietro. — Presentiments.— Appearance of the Algerine Squadron. — Captured by the Pirates. — Captives taken before the Grand Rais or Admiral. — First Night on board the Corsair. — Second Day. — Storm. — Naval Engagement. — Union of the Captives. — Treatment on board the Corsairs of Barbary. — Situation improved. — Hope. — The Rais Hamida. — Coast of Italy. — Council of War. — Dispute between Tunis and Algiers. — Historical Notice of Tunis. — Revolution there. — The Squadron appears before Tunis, and retires. — Coasting, and Arrival at Bona • 27

CHAPTER lit.

Arrival in Algiers. — Landing. — Appearance before the Heads of the Government. — Prison of the Slaves.— First Day in Slavery. — The Employment.— Hours of Repose.— Public Works. — Liberation.— Arrival at the British Consulate. — Lost Riches. — Still greater Losses. — Consolations. — Unfortunate Companions. — Mode of living at Algiers '. ^4

XXIV (ONTENTS

PAGE.

Chapter IV

Christian Slavery in Algiers. — Its physical and moral Effects. — Observations on the Ransom and Liberation effected by the Expedition under Lord Exmouth. — Remarks on the various Accounts of Barbary hitherto published. — Object and Motives of the Author in laying his Account before the Public, &c 88

Chapter V

Barbary. — Derivation of its Name. — Soil, and Climate. — Short View of its general History, and of Algiers in particular. — Geographical Description. — Monuments and Remains of Antiquity. — The Capital described 101

Chapter VI

Fossils, Minerals, and other natural Productions of Barbary. — Trees and Vegetables.— The Lotus and Palm Tree. — Domestic Animals.— The Barb, Camel, and Dromedary. — Wild Animals. — Birds, Reptiles, Scorpions, and Locusts.- lit)

Chapter VII

Desert of Angad. — Hardships in crossing the Sahara, or Great Desert. — Caravans.

The Simoom. — Various Phenomena attending it. — Columns of Sand. — The

Oasis. — Temple of Ammon. — Consolations in the Desert. — Mount Atlas. — Country South of it, &c 139

Chapter VIII

Different People of Barbary.— Black.s.— Jews.— Christians.— Renegadoes.— Turks. —Chiloulis.— Berberi. — Bedouin Arabs.— Their Mode of Living.— Male and Female Costume. — Various Superstitions. — Occupations of the Arabs. — Riches. — Marriages among them. — Characteristic Anecdotes '63

CONTENTS. XXV

PAGE.

Chapter IX

Account of the Kabilesand Arab Tribes. — The Himas. — Tents. — Dowers. — Encampments.— Dascars, or Arab Villages. — The Sheiks. — The Plundering Arabs. — Anecdotes respecting them 181

Chapter X

Description of the Moors.— Their Figure and Character. — Male and Female Costume. — Head Dress and Toilet. — Habitations.— Particular Manners and Customs.-- Marriages amongst the Moors, &c I'JS

Chapter XI

Funeral Ceremonies and Lamentations over the Dead in Barbary. — Mourning of Widows. — Vows of Friendship and Fidelity made on the Graves of departed Relatives.^Table of the Moors. — Cuscousu. — Pillaw and Basseen. — Use of Sugar and Spices. — Yemen Cofifee.^Arausements of the Moors. — Method of enticing Birds. — Chess, and other Games of Chance. — Social Meetings. — The Kiosco. — Barber's Shops. — Moorish Baths. — Mode of Bathing. — Baths frequented once a Week by the Women. — Singers, and Dancing Girls. — Itinerant Story Tellers. — The Bastinado. —Life of the rich Moor 215

Chapter XII

Moorish Beauty. — Eyes and Features, Corpulency, and Mode of Fattening up before Marriage. — Criterion to judge of a fine Woman. — Complexion. — Embellishments extraordinary. — Comparison with European Ladies.— Vanity the ruling Principle. — Unhappy Condition of the Women in Barbary ; their State of Servitude and ill Treatment. — Ideas of the Moors with regard to their Creation. — Their premature old Age. — Their Jealousy. — Ridiculous Precautions to prevent Women from being seen or spoken to. — Inevitable Consequence of being discovered in an Intrigue. — Story of a Tunisian Lady. — Susceptibility and Power of Love. — Moorish Houses favourable to Intrigue. — Argusses occasionally outwitted. — Affectionate Conduct

of the Moorish Ladies towards their Husbands, &c 232

d

XXVI CONTENTS.

PAGE.

Chapter XIII

.state of Agriculture in Algiers. — Imperfect Mode of Ploughing. — Wine. — Butter. — Oil. — Olive Trees. — Method of enriching the Land. — Different Trades and Manufactures.— Otto of Roses. — Commerce — Exports and Imports. — Traffic with the Interior of Africa. — Method of Dealing. — Circulating Medium. — Clipping. — Letters and Sciences. — Arab Writers. — Hints on Civilization. — Anecdote. — The Pen.— The Alfagui.— Their Pedantry.— The Thibibs.— Medical Treatment in Barbary. — Anecdotes, &c 245

Chapter XIV

State of the Arts in Barbary. — Curious Cement and Glue.— Languages of Northern Africa. — Anecdote. — Moorish Music. — Different Instruments. — Singing. — Islamism. — Ridiculous Customs. — Strict Observance of Fasts. — Sanctuary afforded by Mosques, &c. — Holy City. — Paradise of Musselmen. — Pilgrimage to Mecca. — Order of the March, and Allusion to the Ceremonies performed there.— Marabouts. — Anecdote.^ Vaili, or Saints, their Hypocrisy illustrated. — Facility of being canonized in Barbary. — The Mufti. — Their Office and Powers. — Mode of deciding legal Questions and administering the Laws.— The Imans. — The Muezzins, and Hours of Prayer. — The Koran. — Short Analysis of its Contents. — Anecdote of Dorat, the French Poet. — Commentators on the Koran, &c 263

Chapter XV

Nature of the Algerine Government. Its Character. — The Regency. — Divan. — Power of the Dey. — His Election, and Mode of conducting it. — Attributes and Prerogatives of the Dey. — Method of administering Justice. — Cause of his Popularity.— Dangers which environ a Dey's Person. — Anecdotes of some late Chiefs. — Fascinations of Power and Ambition. — Reply of a Polish Monarch.— Account of Ali Bassa, the reigning Dey. — His Death. — Anecdotes. — Notice of All's Successor, Mezouli. — Omar Aga. — The Council of State. — By whom it is generally composed. — Effects of a Dey's being dethroned. — Various Political Reflections. — Account of the different Officers composing the Dey's Administration. — Mode of the Consuls applying for Redress. — Description of inferior Officers. — General Character of the Dey's Ministers. — Remarks. — Anecdotes, &c 286

CONTENTS. XXVl)

PAGf..

Chapter XVI

The Divan. — Its Character as a representative Body. — By whom composed. — Mode of assembling. — Discussion, and Collection of the Votes. — Revenues. — The Beys. — Their Rapacity. — Dey's Policy with regard to them. — The Caids, and their numerous Oppressions. — Account of the Chiaux, or Dey's Messengers. — Their Influence on the Multitude. — Reflections on Laws and Government. — Algerine Code. — The Cadi. — Their Appointment and Functions. — Civil Process in Barbary. — Ignorance of the Judges, and novel Mode of deciding Causes. — Remarks and Anecdotes.— Criminal Process. — Punishments inflicted for various Crimes. — Consequences of Adultery and Infidelity in the Females. — Punishment of Treason. — Debtors. — How treated. — Anecdote of Ibrahim Dey. — Effect of the Dey's personal Administration of Justice. — Anecdote of Cheban Dey. — Defects of the Algerine Law. — Excessive Severity of some Punishments. — Police Regulations of Algiers. — Nightly Patroles. — Espionage and Informers. — Subterfuges of arbitrary Power 307

Chapter XVII

Financial System of Algiers. — Various Modes of raising Money. — Hints to modern Financiers. — The Hasena, or public Treasury. — Reflections on the Advantages of hoarding.— Different Sources of the Dey's Revenue. — His praiseworthy Forbearance.— Anecdote of a Persian Prince. — Thoughts on the Use of Public Money. — Military Force of Algiers. — The Oldack, and Ortes. — Zouavi.— The Aga. — His Functions, and Mode of being replaced. — Account of the Aga del Campo, and Caia. — Mode of rewarding the Services of old Officers in Algiers. — Their Privileges. — Boulouc Bashas, and Vekilardi.- — Method of obtaining Rank and Promotion under the Algerine Government.- -Cursory Ideas on the Subject of Military Regulations in all Countries. — Quarters and Allowance of the Soldiery.— Their Pay. — Punctuality with which the Arrears are paid. — Ceremony observed on these Occasions. — Gradual Increase of the Soldier's Remuneration. — Different Modes of adding to it, and his Prospect of future Repose. — Account of the Algerine Army. — By whom composed. — Bedouin Cavalry. — Annual Operations to collect the Tribute, plunder the Tribes, &c. — Punishments awarded by the Caia. — ■ Order of the March. — General Treatment of the Soldiery. — Its Effects. — Qualities of the Dey's Army. — Its Operations left to the Direction of the General. — Councils of War.— Mode of Encamping, and Order of Battle. — Method of attacking, and

cl 2

XXVin CONTENTS.

PAGE.

re-forming when put into Disorder. — General Character of the Algerine Soldiers. — Anecdote of an Italian Chief. — Character of the Turkish Militia. — Their Power over the Moorish Population. — Reflections. — Allusion to the Victories of Cheban Dey. — Characteristics of the Janizaries. — The various Advantages enjoyed by them over other Soldiers of Fortune 326

Chapter XVIII

Piracy. — The natural State of the Barbary Governments. — Their Political Maxims. — Their Interest in going to War. — Mode of declaring it, and making. Reprisals. — Treatment of European Consuls and Subjects.— Method of justifying their Policy with respect to Foreign Powers. — Mode of carrying on Hostilities. — Argument in favour of it. — Northern Africa always the Retreat and Abode of Pirates. — Cursory View of their Depredations. — Of Captures. — Their Sale, and Distribution of Prize Money. — Mode of disposing of Slaves. — The Basistan. — Tegorarini — Occupation of Christian Captives. — Of Ransoming. — The Fathers of Redemption, or Trinity. — Their mode of proceeding in Algiers. — Efforts of the Author and others to promote the Liberation of Sicilian Slaves. — Allusion to the Exertions of the British Government to emancipate them. — Remarks in praise of the Conduct of those Italian .Sovereigns, who have made Peace with the Barbary Powers. — Various useful Hints to those who become Slaves. — Best Time of escaping. — Probable Result of a well organized Combination amongst the Christian Slaves at Algiers. — Observations, &c 343

Chapter XIX

Military and Naval Power of the Barbary States. — Tripoly. — Morocco. — T'houghts on the Views of the latter State. — Relations of the above States with .Algiers and each other. — Origin of their Independence. — Influence of the Ottoman Porte over the Barbarians. — Nature of its Relations with them. — Various Reflections on the Grand Seignor's Policy. — State of Political Relations between the Pirates and different European Governments 359

Chapter XX

Departure from Algiers. — Feelings on quitting Companions in Misfortunes. — Passage to Minorca. — Arrival at Port Mahon. — Entrance into the Lazzaretto. — Anecdote of a modern Traveller. — Theatrical Scenes. — Liberal Conduct of an

CONTENTS. XXIX

pagi;.

English Consul. — Some Account of Minorca, and those with whom the Author became acquainted there. — Sir Sidney Smith. ^Embarks on board an Engli.sh Ship. — Passage to Sicily, and Arrival in Palermo. — Various Reflections on the Civil and Political State of the above Island. — Departure from SiciLY. — Reflections during the Vo^'age. — Arrival at Ponza, together with some Account of that Island. — Return to Tuscany and Reflections suggested by it 369

Chapter XXI

Recent Conduct and new Insults of the Barbary Powers. — Negociations of Lord Exmouth, and General Sir Thomas Maitland. — Bombardment of Algiers. — Submission of the Dey. — Observations on the Treaties lately made between the European Powers and Barbary States. — Remarks on the Conduct of Great Britain, compared with that of other Governments. — Singular Enigma. — Reflections suggested by it. — Necessity of taking greater Precautions than those already adopted. — How far we are justified in relying on the Faith of Treaties. — Morality of a Barbary Chief. — His Motto. — Actual Disposition of these Powers, manifested by their general Conduct 388

Chapter XXII

Italy more exposed than ever to the Depredations of the Barbary Corsairs. — Consequences of no more Captives being made. — Prisoners of War. — Their probable Treatment by the Barbarians. — Illustrations. — Necessity, Justice, and Utility of more powerful Measures. — Various Reflections ; and Anecdote of an English Seaman.— Importance to Europe of colonizing Northern Africa. — Its amazing Fecundity.— Facility of perefrating into the Interior from that Direction. — Splendor of the Enterprize. — Its Advantages to Antiquarian Research, Science, and the useful Arts. — Observations, &c 406

Chapter XXIII

Difficulties likely to attend the Enterprize. — Remarks on the Moorish Character. — Observations on the Result of those Expeditions hitherto sent again.st the Infidels. — Want of Union, and popular Nature of the Barbary Governments favourable

XXX CONTENTS.

PAGE.

to an invading Army. — Reasons why the Moors are not likely to adhere to the Fortunes of their present Rulers. — As easy for the united Powers of Europe to colonize Northern Africa, as it was for single Nations of other Times to do so. — Hints to an invading Force. — Best Time to effect a Landing. — Kind of Warfare most adapted to Africa.- — Necessity of Perseverance. — Importance of calling in the Aid of Political Intrigue. — Comparison between the Moors and savage Nations. — Probability of the former's adopting European Manners and another Religion.- — Singular Tradition prevalent in Barbary. — Recollections by which an European Army would be animated on landing in Africa. — Why that part of the World is not as susceptible of undergoing a great political Change as other Countries. — Necessity of employing a sufBcient Force, and of the Powers of Europe being unanimous in the Cause. — Nations that ought to direct the League. — Reflections 417

Chapter XXIV

Author's Motives for proposing the Colonization of Northern Africa. — Most equitable Line of Policy to be pursued, should a Descent ever be made m that Country. — Anecdote and Reflections. — Appeal to Princes, Ministers, People, Philosophers, Orators, Poets, and periodical Writers of every Country. — Eulogium on the Anti- Piratical Institution. — Conclusion 429 w* iir i^ y

I. J « t il

NARRATI VE

OF

A VOYAGE TO ALGIERS.

Chapter I

Memoirs. — Origin of the Voyage. — Fatal Delay. — Thames. — 7%e Ocean. — Continuance of the Voyage. — Rencontre. — Coast of Fez. — Straits and Bay of Gibraltar. — Passage up the Mediterranean. — Arrival at the Island of San Pietro.

We are daily in the habit of hearing people exclaim : " WJiat strange adventures mine have been ! Why, Sir, my life is a perfect romance! I have really a great mind to write my history V* When those who have played an important part in the theatre of life, and made sublime experiments on fortune, fall from power and splendor, they naturally enough become a prey to ennui : in order, however, to shed a little light on the obscurity of their retieat, to preserve some recollection of that name, gloiy, and even life ; which, to use the expression of Pope, seems to breathe from other lips ; they take to writing their warlike and political actions — and being no longer able to wield the sword or staif of office, have recourse to the pen : reuu)ved from the worldly stage, by choice or necessity, they assume the more modest part of authors. Hence the numberless volumes constantly appearing with the flattering titles of if/^'wioirs, Hislorical. Political and Military ; including the campaigns of (iene-

2 MEMOIR!^.

Far from being ul»le to boast of public iiotoricly, J liuve found myself fallen to the lo\\est ebb of fortune, and shall aeeordingly detail my ill-fated adventnres ; but the following narrative will only include a short period, which was, however, the most tempestuous of my whole life, if that which has been so ii'aught with struggles and calamity is worthy of the name ! A certain people of antiquity only counted their days of happiness; amongst whom, a wise man on the point of death, wrote this epitaph for himself: / hare passed Jiftij-six years, and lired four ! All who contend in the stormy sea of human vicissitude, may be compared to those emblems of alternate happiness and misery, who, after having tasted nectar, at the table of the gods, sorrowfully descended into the region of shadows ; joy and pleasure passes over the heart like the transient breath of zephyrs; while it is furrowed by endless griefs and bitter cares.

Shakspear has somewhere obsened, that felicity comes slowly, and in silence, advancing on tiptoe like a nocturnal visitant ; while misfortune attacks in close battalions, those, who are destined to be the victims of its inflexible decrees.

Man is a querulous ami dissatisfied animal! The most common exclamations of the day are, " Oh, what times! What places! What people! What women! What devils!^' ^V^e are always tired of the situation in which we are, and vainly wishing to be where we are not. By a strange fatality, connected with that love of change .so peculiar to our nature, it occurred to myself, and a few others of my counti'ymen to abandon England; that envied nation, which has alone remained inishaken, amidst the political agitations of surrounding states, and generously opened its bosom to the exiled wanderers of other countries, equally fostering the native plant, and foreign stem, blown upon its coast by the revolutionaiy tempest. Yes! anxious once more to behold my native land, and breathe the delightfid

OR ir, IN or TMR VOYVCK. Ì?

air of an Italian sky. J no ioniser remeinbrrcd the words of a oelebratt'd poet tliat,

or, that Ave can no Avhere be so ^v^^\ situated as amongst our friends. It was reserved for me to learn, by bitter experience, that liappiness has iU source within ourselves, and does n<it proceed from witljout ; })ut we do not know how to collect tlie pure stream, or diiect its natural and easv course. It is said, that an eastern monarch once otfered a large reward to any of his subjects, who woidd come before him and swear they had enjoyed constant happiness : two persons presented themselves, a husband ami his wife ; these atteste»! that, united by thetender ties of matrimony, theii- felicity had long etpuilled that of the golden age, and they were perfectly reconciled to their condition. " If so," replied the king, " and you are as happy as you {intend to be, you would not have come in search of my protfered . riches : no, you have wants, desires, and aiubition ; go, therefore, you are not the fortunate beings I h»ok for, and f«»r whose appearance I shall most likely have vet to wait a long time."

The project was at first a mere liigitive idea ; one of those tancies which often obtrude themselves to fill up a blank in the cold monotony of life. It would, like many others of a similar des<n'iption, have fallen to the ground, if more maturely considered, had not two false and interested ///V-y/r/.v, of whom there are so many, ever ready to betray the incredulous, stiunilated the execution, and finally succeeded, by pretexts the most specious and absurd, in persuading me to sacrifice friends, fortune, and tranquillity, for the delusive ho|)e of future advantage, destined, alas ! to tenninate in ruin and disa|ipoinhnent. I have heard of a literary character, who kept a smaH book, A\hicli he called the " cainlogne of his friends,'' on the first page was written Hcorf, w ith two or three names uixder it ; the second had Tabic on it ; and the third Purse. The friends of the

4 FATAL DELAY.

table and purse liad been very numerous, but were afterwards erased, on tlie fourtli page was inscribed Masks, the names which followed filled the rest of the book ; those of our friends who are attracted by the table and purse, may, with propriety, be placed under the fourth article of the catalogue. The proverb says, where my friends are, there is my treasure. It might be added, that sycophants only offer their fi'iendship where somethina; is to be gained. Such were the motives which actuated the persons to whom I am indebted for an opportunity of penning these memoirs. To a candid and honourable mind, in which suspicion has noplace, nothing is so difficult to conceive, as the ingratitiule of one whom you have assisted. I will not, however, deny the extent and weakness of my own credulity ; and having suffered the fatal consequences of bad advice, merely wisli to warn others by my example, qui ne sait se risotulre aux conseils, s^ibandonne ; and according to a Chinese proverb, the fool asks other people to explain the cause of his errors, while the wise man enquires within himself.*

From the superior accommodations, and its various other advantages, I had of coiuse determined to take my passage in a British vessel ; but this design ^vas frustrated, by the officious zeal and Ijaleful solicitude of my imaginary friends, who, by many arguments, which it is

* In this part of the original work, there is a very long note, in which the author minutely enters into a variety of little details, relative to the perfidious conduct of those people, who persuaded him to leave England ; at a time when his interests could not have been better consulted than by remaining there. And although written with all the humorous energy of Mr. Pananti's pen, I have not thought it sufficiently connected with the great object of his memoirs, to be introduced in the translation. From what has been said, he may safely calculate upon the warmest sympathy of a nation, whose virtues he has so generously appreciated; and the paramount force of self-approbation must ultimately enable him to look down with a mixture of pity and contempt on his betrayers. Sincerely anxious to promote his happiness, I am sure the introduction of too much matter, purely of a personal nature, into a work of this description, could not in any way tend to that desirable object, while it mightdesfroy, m some measure, the interest which its perusal will, I trust, be found calculated to excite in the English reader. — Ed.

BEGGING PARDON. 5

HOW unnecessary to relate, prevailed on me to einliark on hoar<l a Sicilian briuf bound to Palernu», wliich was to sail with the first Mediterranean convoy, and this had ahvady l)e,i>an to collect at Spithead. Having, therefore, made tin- usual preparations for a sea voyage, I hastened to join the other passengers, who were embarke<l at Gravesend, and had scarcely occupied my birtli on board, when the master, without assigning any reason whatever, returned to London, and remained there three whole days, leaving us all in a state of the most painful anxiety, as to the alarming consequences that might result from the convoy's quitting Portsmouth before our arrival there. At length, when patience was exhviusted, and we began seriously to think some accident had befallen our hero, he condescended to make his a])pearance, and, with a superficial apology, in which patience and resignation were modestly inculcated, resumed his nautical avocations. Thus, it too freciuently happens with those who, like us, have committed themselves to the mercy of some ignorant merchant captain, and, without a previous eiK[uiry into his character, been even prevailed on to advance the j)assage-money before sailing ; to which circumstance we might with great justice attribnte our ultimate hardships and disasters. Referring to the unblushing impudence of this man, in having thus attempteil to excuse himself for keeping us waiting, while lie was occupied in playing the fine gentleman on the pave of the metropolis, it is also a striking illusti-ation of the extreme facility with ^vhich most people become reconciled to themselves, without a very scrupulous regard to the feelings of others; every thing is now accommodated by the laconic phrase of: " / beg your pardon .'" Does any one jostle up against you in the street, and endanger a limb, he begs pardon and passes on, as if nothing had happened. Another makes you wince again, by unmercifully treading on an ill-fated corn: this is coolly compromised by, "■really, Sir, I humbly beg pardon, but I didn't mean itV If in argununt any one takes the words out of your mouth, and l>ya flat contradici ion, plausibly gives you the lie, he \y\exe\y begs jiardon : so it iswilh the intruder on your

6 A BRAVE SKIPPER.

studies, or more importunate creditor: ail in tliis world is rendered palatable by asking pardon, and I am even obliged to solicit that oC the reader, for this unseasonable digression.

While thus impatiently looking forward to the moment of sailing, what was our mortification on seeing the departure of the convoy announced? The so much dreaded event, which at once exposed us to the danger of crossing the ocean without protection, and liable to capture by numerous enemies, our only consolation in this dilemma, was a pompons oration fronr the skipper, who differed iVom us in toto as to the perils of our impending situation, and triumphantly concluded several impertinent remaiks, by draAving his own panegjTic, in which after deriding our childish apprehensions, he re})resented himself as a most experienced seaman, and so excellent a navigator, that in addition to his perfect knowledge of tlie winds, stars, latitudes, and longitudes, he recollected all the bays, headlands, rocks, and shoals in our course, as w ell as his avemariu ! He doubtless, in this moment of exultation, fancied himself another Typhis; and like Caesar seemed to imagine that his fortune would carry us through every difficulty. Without entering into the merits of this boaster, we soon after had many o|)portunities of witnessing the usual effect of pride and presumption; for notwithstanding all his gasconading, he was guilty of innumerable blunders during the whole course of the voyage. That which aParisian wit said of an author, who had been much praised for a forthcoming production, which totally disappointed public expectation, might with ecjiial j)ropriety be applied to our Palinurus: — Nous lui avons avance des orands fonds, il nous a fait òanqncroute.

The vessel's name was the Hero, aiul by a singular coincidence of rhetorical contrivance, it was also that of the commander. We had, however, no cause to congratulate oiu'selves on h is Ao/-f/MT//// attributes, and would have most willingly dispensed with such flattering epithets for a little more solidity. Without being the first who had been sacrificed to the folly or ambition of a hero ; this was not the only occa-

THE THAiVIES. 7

sioii HI which I was taught to cons'ider that, as the most i'atai present which Providence can bestow on mankind.

Having, at lengtli, got under weigh, we proceeded down the Than)es. It is scarcely possible to conceive a more interesting spectacle than is presented by tliis magnilicent stream, witli its prodigions number of shipping, concentrating as it were the commercial s[)irit of the univeise, and whose masts form a perfect forest from London bridge, till you descend several miles. There is even an indescribable majesty in the stately undulation of this beautiful river, which is not a little heightened bj^ the ronuuitic and picturesque olyectsthat adorn its banks, often the theme of poetic admiration : it has nowhere been desciibed with more force and dignity than in the celebrated Cooper's Hill of Sir John Denham :

Tho' deep yet clear, tho' gentle yet not dull, .Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full.

I have ever been a passionate admirer of running waters, so instrumental in keeping up the communication, and maintaining the prosperity of states. The philosopher gravely meditates on the succeeding wave, and rapidity of the passing stieam. Poets delight to wander under the melancholy shade of the drooping willow ; the exile, the lover, and the wretched, sigh in unison with the nuirmurinc,- cascade,

Rivers have a great analogy to the heart, and reflections of the earthly pilgrim. They seem to accompany our wandering thoughts; reminding us of the rapidity of life, and its more fleeting pleasures i they are, in fact, the image of human vicissitudes. Men, their concerns, events and interests, are precipitated, clash, and succeed each other like the ceaseless torrent ; even nations may be said to flow and pass on to the ocean of time, finally losing themselves in the vast sea of oblivion.

8 PARTING WITH FRIENDS.

Haviui»- quitted the Thames, and sailed along the coast of Kent, we had a fine view of Dover cliff, immortalized in the sublime verses of Sliakspeare, and in which some poets have recognized the genius of Albion, like a colossus, extending its hospitable arms to friendly nations. Adieu ! great and powerful sovereign of the ocean ; adieu, happy country, in which the law governs, and is tempered by mercy ; where a protecting genii siili cherishes that divine spark of ' heavenly fiame,' which, according to Plato, is developed in those climates favourable to liberty' and virtue ; where, in fine, as observed by the Prince de Ligne, prosperity, freedom, and abundance, appear to contend for pre-eminence; and from which wealth, beauty, and intellect ought long since to have banished that splenetic and morbid melancholy, which has sometimes been laid to the charge of its national character. Farewell, dear and respected friends, who by so many proofs of benevolent attention, will ever live in my warmest recolleclections. That your evening of life may not be interrupted by any of those clouds which impede the progress of happiness : Yes T my kind friends, gratitude and affection bid me express an ardent hope that yours may be a trancpiil day, so justly merited by hearts fraught with honour and generosity.* -