Reminisciences Of Forty-Three Years In India.

Preface

The following Narrative has been compiled exclusively from the letters and diaries of General Sir George Lawrence, entrusted to me for that purpose.

Sir George having held the office of Military Secretary at Cabul, was necessarily intimately acquainted with the views, policy, and proceedings of the Envoy and Minister up to the occasion of Sir W. Macnaghten’s murder. Law¬ rence was subsequently given as a hostage, and remained eight and a half months in captivity. During that time, he was in almost daily communication with Sirdar Mahomed Akbar Khan and other leading Affghan chiefs, attended many of their deliberations, and was consulted frequently by them.* He is therefore especially well qualified to supply a complete and authentic history of events which must ever, from their intrinsic importance, occupy a con¬ spicuous page of our Indian history.

Living among the Affghans when their feelings were strongly excited, and when they had no motives for reserve, the opinion which General Lawrence has formed of their character is of much value, and is deserving of grave vi

PREFACE, consideration by those who may have the future decision as regards the policy to be pursued towards that country, and cannot fail to be a warning to our statesmen should they ever be inclined to listen to those who may advocate a return to that policy which bore so bitter fruit in 1839-40.

In 1846 General Lawrence was appointed chief poli¬ tical authority at Peshawur, and was in charge of that important frontier province during the second Sikh war. By his individual energy, tact, and influence, at that time, he was enabled to keep to their allegiance for six months after the rest of the army had revolted, a division of Sikh troops numbering 10,000 men, with a powerful artillery. When this body at last broke through all restraint and mutinied, Sir George was made a prisoner by their leaders, and remained in captivity and in imminent peril for five and a half months. When the Sikh leaders became, after repeated defeats, hopeless of success, they applied to General Lawrence frequently for advice, and made him the channel of confidential communication between them¬ selves and the British Government. His diaries conse¬ quently contain much that is new and important relative to that great revolt, which strained all the energies of our Government completely to subdue.

The concluding portion of the volume’relates to Sir George Lawrence’s successful administration of Eajpootana during the Indian Kebellion, and affords much interest¬ ing information respecting one of the most extensive and

PREFACE.

vii populous of our provinces during that very momentous crisis.

However imperfectly the task of editing these papers may have been performed, the narrative itself will be found not only interesting from the important character of the events to which it relates, but valuable also as exhibiting an ennobling example of duty performed with undaunted fortitude in circumstances of extreme peril, and as affording for the encouragement of those who come after, a valuable proof how much indomitable energy and pluck, joined to a character for unswerving integrity, can achieve in controlling and overawing assemblies of savage and bloodthirsty chiefs, and also large masses of a fierce and lawless soldiery.

Craigton,

Ross-shirb :

February 20 } 1874,

W. EDWARDS,

H.M. Bengal Civil Service.

Retired.

Chapter I

Receive Appointment and Proceed to India—Join my Regiment—Inter¬ view 'with the Governor-General, Lord W. Bentinck—Witness a Sut¬ tee-*—Ordered on Service — My Regiment Joins Army of Indus at Eerozepore—Runjeet Singh—March to Quetta—Candahar and Ghuzne ® page 1

Chapter II

Storm and Capture of Ghuznee—Appointed one of the Prize Agents— Advance to Cabul—Pursuit of Dost Mahomed Khan—Return from Bamean—Shah Soojah arrives in Cabul . . . , . ,14

CHAPTER m.

Apparently Tranquil State of Afghanistan—Officers send for their Eamilies from India—Shah proceeds to Jellalabad to pass the Winter—The Khyber Pass and its Difficulties—Capture of Pishoot—Russian Ad¬ vance op Khiva, and Measures adopted .in consequence , , 26

CHAPTER IV. . v

Return of Shah Soojah to Cabul—Intrigues of the Sikh Durbar—Dis¬ turbances in different parts of the Country — Successful Operations of Colonel Dennie in the Bamean District—Death of E. Conolly—Sale’s Operations in the Kohistan—Cavalry Action of Purwan Durrah, and Remarks thereon * ., » , t .39

X

CONTENTS .

CHAPTER V.

Surrender of the Ameer Dost Mahomed Khan—His Deportation with his Family to India—Unprecedented Tranquillity of the Country in con¬ sequence of the Ameer’s Surrender—The Result on the Mind of Shah Soojah—Disturbances at Khelat and Murder of Lieutenant Loveday— Brigadier Shelton’s Operations in the Nuzeran Valley—Arrival of Elphinstone—His Feeble State of Health—Return of the Court to Cabul—Outbreak in the Grhilzye Country .... page 49

CHAPTER VI.

„ Despatch of a Force under General Sale to Jellalabad—Attacked by Ghilzyes—Sale Wounded—Sir A. Burnes nominated to succeed Macnaghten—Sudden Outbreak in City of Cabul—Measures proposed for its Suppression—Ordered to proceed to Bala Hissar—Sturt Wounded— Shelton’s Brigade occupy Bala Hissar — His deplorable Inactivity— Sir A. Burnes Murdered—Envoy’s Energetic Measures . . 58

CHAPTER VII.

Position of the Cabul Cantonments—Protest of the Envoy against the Choice of a Position for Commissariat Stores—Return of Griffiths’ Force — Trevor and Mackenzie forced to abandon their Position — Commissariat Fort Abandoned and Stores Lost—Brigadier Shelton Summoned from !Bala IJissar . . . . , . .72

CHAPTER VIII.

Post of Charekar Taken and its Garrison Destroyed—Major Pottinger reaches Cabul—Massacre of Woodbum’s Detachment—Negotia¬ tions with Kuzzulbashes—Village of Behmaroo Attacked—Defeat of our Troops—Fresh Negotiations—Mahomed Shuireef’s Fort Aban¬ doned 07

CHAPTER IX.

Military Authorities Propose to Retreat—Their Views Opposed by Sir W. Macnaghten—Proposal to Occupy Bala Hissar Rejected—Envoy Meets Chiefs and Submits Draft of Treaty, which was accepted by the Sir¬ dars—Our Troops Evacuate the Bala Hissar—Second Interview with * 1118 Chiefs—Macnaghten Murdered—Trevor Killed—Mackenzie and myself taken-Prisoners ■ ,* . ■ t iqa

« CONTENTS,

CHAPTER X.

Particulars of Sir W. Macnaghten’s Murder—Remarks on his Character —Explanation of his Negotiations with Mahomed Akbar Khan—Mac¬ kenzie and I taken to House of Nuwab Zuman Khan—Chiefs Submit a New Draft Treaty to General Elphinstone—Summoned to Attend Ameenoollah Khan—New Hostages Selected—It is determined to Liberate me.. page 123

CHAPTER XI.

Recover my Liberty—Am sent into Cantonment—My Cordial Reception —State of Affairs in Cantonment on Day of Envoy’s Murder—Sturt and Pottinger’s Proposals Rejected— Scene in Cantonment—King Urges us to Remain—Army Evacuates the Cantonment—Miseries of First March—Rearguard Atta 6 ked—Army completely Disorganised— Am made over as a Hostage., 136

CHAPTER XII.

Renewed Attack on our Troops—Incidents of the Retreat—Fury of the Ghilzyes—Dying Sergeant of the 44th Regiment—Mahomed Akbar’s Proposal to Receive and Protect Ladies and Children—They Arrive in Mahomed Aubar’s Camp—March to Tezeen—Dr. Magrath’s Es¬ cape .153

CHAPTER XIII.

March from Jugdulluck to Punjsheir River—Incidents of the March— Ford the River—Rescue an Old Servant—March to Teerghurree—In¬ habitants hostile and menacing—Proceed to Budeeabad—Quarters assigned to us in the Fort—Change of Custodians—Mahomed Akbar advances Money for our use—Remain at Budeeabad—Incidents 168

CHAPTER XIV.

Death of Le Geyt—Ejection of our Servants from the Fort—Sirdar Ma¬ homed Khan revokes his Order for their Dismissal—Fall of Ghuznee —Attempt to Assassinate Mahomed Akbar—Change of Custodians— Appointment of Saleh Mahomed—Sale’s Victory—Departure from Budeeabad—Elphinstone’s Feeble State—Mackenzie deputed to Jellalabad—Death of Elphinstone—His Body sent to Jellalabad , ,181 xii

CONTENTS .

CHAPTER XV.

Arrive at tie Fort of Shewakhee—Comfortable Quarters assigned to us— Visit from the Murderer of Shah Soojah—Mahomed Akbar obtains possession of Bala Hissar—Ghilzyes attempt to massacre the Hostages —Attacked by severe Illness—On Recovery deputed to Jellalabad— Meet my Brother—Mission Unsuccessful—Return to Cabul page 197

CHAPTER XVI.

The Hostages join us at Shewakhee—Interview with Mahomed Akbar— Arrival of Officers from Ghuznee—Leave Shewakhee—Saleh Mahomed —Dr. Berwick and Convalescent Soldiers join us—Proposals to Saleh Mahomed rejected by him—Kindness of Mustapha Khan—Reach Bamean—Saleh Mahomed’s Communication—Measures for our Release —Arrival of Sir Richmond Shakespeare—Release of Prisoners—Arrival in Cabul . . *.. . 211

CHAPTER XVII.

Our Army withdrawn from Afghanistan—Placed in charge of the Family of Shah Soojah—Rejoin my Regiment—Serious Illness—Proceed to England on Furlough—Return to India—Appointed Political Agent at Peshawur—State of Affairs in the Province—Our Policy in Regard to Afghanistan—Visit to Eusufzye Country—Tranquillity of Peshawur— Proceed to Lahore.* 225

CHAPTER XVIII.

Sir F. Currie appointed Resident at Lahore—Affairs of Mooltan—Dewan Moolraj—Murder of Vans Agnew and Lieut. Anderson—Operations in the Field by Major Herbert Edwardes—Disturbances in Hazara— Seize and Garrison Fort of Attock—Send my Family to Kohat— Mutiny of Peshawur Brigade—Escape to Kohat.... 240

CHAPTER XIX.

Report to Resident Mutiny of the Peshawur Troops—Sultan Mahomed Khan binds himself by Oath to send us to Bahawulpore—Sultan Mahomed Khan is made Governor of Peshawur—Delivers myself and Party to Chutter Singh as Prisoners—My Family sent to the Fort of Sukkoo—lam sent to Shere Singh’s Head-quarters—Battle of Chillianwallah—Sent to Lahore on Parole—Battle of Gujerat—Rejoin the Sikh Camp—Liberation of Prisoners—Final Surrender of the Sikh Army—Return to Peshawur . 259

^CONTENTS.

xiii

CHAPTER XX.

State of Meywar in Rajpootana—Family Feud of the Maharanas—War between Jyepore and Joudpore—Princess Kishna Koonwur—Sir Henry Lawrence appointed Governor-General’s Agent for Rajpootana—Trans¬ ferred to Oude—Appointed to succeed as Governor-General’s Agent— Commencement of Rebellion—Defenceless State of Rajpootana—Ajmeer Fort occupied by Mhairwarrah Battalion—Send for a Force from Deesa —Mutiny at Nusseerabad—Appointed Brigadier-General . page 276

CHAPTER XXI.

Major Burton and his Two Sons proceed to Kotah—Interview with the Maharajah—Troops attack Residency—Major Burton and his Sons Murdered—Rebels attack Neemuch—Awah taken and Defences de¬ stroyed—Siege and Capture of Kotah—Tan tea Topee lays Siege to Tonk.295

SO 5

REMINISCENCES

OF

FORTY-THEEK YEARS IN INDIA.

CHAPTER I.

RECEIVE APPOINTMENT AND PROCEED TO INDIA—JOIN MY REGIMENT — INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL, LORD W. BENTINCK—WIT¬ NESS A SUTTEE—ORDERED ON SERVICE—MY REGIMENT JOINS ARMY OF INDUS AT EEROZEPORE—RUNJEET SINGH—MARCH TO QUETTA-— CANDAHAR AND GHUZNEE.

After attending the Military College of Addiscombe, I received my appointment from the Honorable East India Company of a cometcy of cavalry on their Bengal esta¬ blishment ; and on the 5th of May, 1821,1 proceeded to India, arriving in Calcutta on the 10th of September of the same year, and was immediately posted to the 2nd regiment of Light Cavalry.

I remained six weeks in the Cadet Barracks in Cal¬ cutta. The chief incidents during my stay there were my getting a severe fall the first time I mounted a horse in my cavalry uniform, from, I fancy, using my spurs unnecessarily. I was picked up senseless and taken into a good Samaritan’s house in Chowringhee. The other was a dinner at the Grovemor-Grenerars, Lord Hastings,

B i FORTY-THREE YEARS IN INDIA . ch. I.

who gave me the good advice of c Mind you study the native languages, sir !’ On my way up the river Ganges my companion, Comet Bradford, and myself were nearly drowned. While bathing, Bradford got beyond his depth. He could not swim, I could, and tried in vain to save him, when my servant, a khitmudgar, seeing us being carried down by the current, jumped in, and took one under each arm to the shore. He was so well rewarded that he left me at Sultanpore to return to Calcutta. I joined my regiment at Keitah, in Bundlekund, on the 15th of January, 1821; and nine months after was placed in charge of a troop. Two years later I became a lieu¬ tenant, and was then appointed adjutant of my regiment, a post I retained until September, 1834, when I resigned it.

During this time India was in a state of profound peace, and my life was one of common routine in an Indian cantonment, merely diversified by a change of quarters, and by a visit in the summer of 1827, on sick leave, to Simla, then just becoming known as a sanatarium. While there I had the honor of an interview with the Governor-General, Lord William Bentinck, the circum¬ stances of which I may here relate, as illustrative of his character. On entering his room, his lordship addressed me with, 6 Well, sir, what do you want V 6 Nothing, my lord, for myself, 5 I replied. 6 Well, 5 said the Governor- General, 6 you are the first man I have met in India who gave me that answer; but you must want something ? 5 ‘ Yes, 5 I answered, 6 for my brother Henry, an artillery officer. I wish your lordship to be good enough to nomi¬ nate him to the Bevenue survey, for which he is qualified.

■ For myself I want nothing, as I am adjutant of my re¬ giment, and perfectly content. 5 ‘Well, sir, I never pro-

■ mise, but go to my military secretary, Benson, who will

CH. I.

WITNESS A SUTTEE .

put your brother’s name down, and I will see what can be done.’ I thanked his lordship and retired, and in six months thereafter my brother received the appointment he desired.

I may here mention an incident which occurred at this period as illustrating bygone times. One morning on dismissing the regiment from parade, the havildar major (native adjutant) requested my permission to attend a ‘tomasha’ (an extraordinary sight). On inquiry it turned out that a suttee was about to take place in th£ neighbourhood of the cantonment of Neemuch, and I resolved to witness it myself. On reaching the spot I found a large crowd collected around a funeral pyre on which the poor victim about to immolate herself was seated. Seeing a number of my own troopers in the crowd I asked them if they would stand by me if I attempted to rescue the woman from her dreadful fate, and finding that they were quite willing, I approached the pyre near enough to address her, saying I was ready to save her life if she desired it. She expressed heT gratitude, but refused, saying she was willing to die. Immediately afterwards the flames enveloped her, and in a few seconds she was burned to ashes. Her calm in¬ trepidity was most astonishing, especially as she had not even the excitement of her husband’s body to be con¬ sumed with her, only a portion of his clothes, as he him¬ self had died far from his home.

c It is a long lane that has no turning,’ and at last, in ‘September, 1838, came the welcome order to prepare for service in the field. My regiment was ordered to join the army of the Indus, then being concentrated at' Ferozepore on the Sutlej for service in Affghanistan, to restore to his throne the Ameer Shah Soojah-ool-Moolk.

4 FORTY-THREE YEARS IN INDIA . CH. I.

We marched from the cantonment of Meerut on the 30th October, 1838, reaching Ferozepore on the 28th of the following month, and joined the army collected there under the immediate orders of the Commander-in-chief, Sir Henry Fane, The Governor-General, Lord Auckland, with his suite, had already proceeded to this place, to hold an interview with the famous Kunjeet Singh, the founder of the powerful kingdom of the Punjaub. Dur¬ bars, to which I had great difficulty to get admission, and Reviews were held in his honor, and on Bunjeet’s taking leave of the Governor-General his lordship presented him with two finely ornamented horse artillery 9-pounders, fully equipped for service. On leaving the durbar tent, his Highness proceeded, with the Governor-General and Commander-in-chief on either side of him, to inspect the handsome present, which he most highly valued. Bunjeet, at the time an infirm old man, stumbled and fell just before the muzzles of the guns, and Lord Auckland and Sir Henry Fane at once raised him to his feet. A murmur of horror rose from his sirdars and retinue at the ill omen to their chief, the head of their empire, thus falling pros¬ trate before the British guns. Their hearts were com¬ forted, however, and the unlucky nature of the omen averted, by some one happily saying , 6 Well, if his High¬ ness did fall before the British guns, the highest repre¬ sentatives of the British government restored him to his feet. 9

During the time the grand army remained at Feroze¬ pore, intimation of the raising of the siege of Herat, and the retreat of the Persian forces, reached the Go¬ vernment, and in consequence it was determined greatly to diminish the strength of the force about to proceed into Affghanistan. Sir Henry Fane’s services were no

CH. I.

JOIN ARMY OF THE INDUS.

longer considered necessary to command the army on its reduced scale, and indeed he declined to act as subordi¬ nate to Mr. Macnaghten, the political chief, so his Ex¬ cellency made over the command of the Bengal column, to which my regiment was attached, to Sir Willoughby Cotton, who was ordered to proceed at once to Shikarpore. Sir Henry Fane asked Brigadier-General Thackwell to appoint me one of his aides-de-camp, but preferring regimental duties I declined, which was fortunate, as Mr. Macnaghten placed me on his own staff at a later date as his military secretary and political assistant, after I had declined the Cavalry Brigade Major ship offered me by Brigadier Arnold. Although no longer in immediate command, Sir H. Fane accompanied this column on its march down the left bank of the Sutlej and Indus as far as Bukkur, which place we reached without any incidents of importance, and by the ordinary marches, on January 20, 1839.

Sir Alexander Burnes, the political agent, had, ere we arrived, concluded a treaty with the Ameer of Khyrpore, to cede temporarily to the British Government his stronghold of Eoree Bukkur, built on an island in the Indus. The Ameer was naturally most reluctant, when the time came, to make over the fort, but after sundry delays, he at last consented. Sir Henry Fane, attended by Sir Alexander Burnes, proceeded in state to take pos¬ session, , and I accompanied the party. On landing, the old warder of the fort handed over the key to Sir Henry, who proceeded to the gate, and unlocking it with his own hand, entered and took possession, in the name of the British Government, of this ancient stronghold of the Ameers of Scinde. A bridge of boats was here thrown across the Sutlej, and by it the whole army, consisting

FORTY-THREE YEARS IIV INDIA.

CH. i.

of the Bengal and Bombay columns, which was now collected under the command of Sir John Keane, crossed the river, without accident, to Sukkur on the right bank, whence we proceeded to the large town of Shikarpore. Here Shah Soojah-ool-Moolk, a fine old man with a superb black beard, and the envoy and* minister to his court, Mr. Macnaghten, had already arrived with the Shah’s own troops. On the 23rd February we marched from Shikarpore for Dadur, distant 146 miles, crossing the desert which commences at a place called Kajghan. This sterile tract, extending for twenty-three miles, is pestilential during the extreme heats of summer, and becomes a swamp in the rainy season, in June or July. At this time of the year it presented little difficulty to troops marching across it, except from the scarcity of water and grain. We arrived at Dadur, the entrance of the Bolan Pass, on the 10th March, and were de¬ layed there some time owing' to the desertion of many of our syces and dooly bearers. On the 15th, the force entered this most formidable pass, my regiment forming a portion of the advance. About two miles from our camp the road lay over loose stones and boulders, passing over a mountain-torrent of a depth varying from one to two feet, no less than seven times during the march. While crossing the last time, I allowed my horse to drink, when he suddenly lay down in the stream, wetting me thoroughly, but doing no further damage to me ,or him¬ self. The Beloochee marauders here commenced their depredations, and attacked and plundered our mail run¬ ners. I rejoiced that I had sent my wife and family to England, so that neither they nor I were liable to the worry and disappointment such events were causing to many others in our camp. Our second march through the

CH. I.

THE BOLAN PASS.

pass, to a place called Kurlat, very much resembled in character the first. But on the 17 th we entered a narrow defile; on one side flowed a rapid river and on the other rose precipitous mountains, where it would have been im¬ possible for cavalry to act, even if required. The fourth march brought us through the dry bed of a torrent, nine miles, to a place called Beebee Nanee. Many camels succumbed to the severity of the marching and the difficulty of the road, and had to be abandoned. One of the officers of the 16th Lancers, who had forty ser¬ vants, although prohibitory orders had been reiterated limiting the number for each officer, had his baggage plundered and his cook killed, by some of the thieves watching their opportunity, while hiding among the rocks of the defile.

The fifth march, again a distance of nine miles, brought us to Abeyjoon, where we encountered a terrific storm of wind and rain, which levelled a great many of our tents. Marching from thence, the road became so difficult that much of the baggage of the troops had to be abandoned and burnt to prevent its becoming the prey of the robbers infesting the pass. The infantry soldiers had also to assist the guns into camp, the horses and cattle being quite exhausted. On the 20th, after a march of ten miles, we encamped on the top of the Pass Sir-i- Bolan, 5,000 feet *above the level of the sea. On the 21st we commenced our descent by a narrow zigzag road, covered with boulders and with high precipitous rocks on either side, and halted at a spot bearing the inauspicious but well-deserved name of the Dusht-i-beh- Dowlut— 6 the unhappy plain. 9 Leaving this miserable place on the 22nd, our road lay through a fine grassy valley. Oh I how grateful to eye and ear was this march

FORTY-THREE YEARS IN INDIA .

CH. I.

—the horses no longer grinding and crunching through stones and shingle as they marched, but stepping lightly and noiselessly on the grassy plain, smooth as velvet. We had now left behind us the dreaded Bolan, which extends for a distance of sixty-six miles from Dadur. Quetta was now distant from us ten miles, but instead of finding, as was anticipated, ample supplies for the army there, little or none could be procured. I and other officers were detached to forage for kurby and grain among the neighbouring villages, and I visited several on this duty, but with no success. Quetta, which we now reached, is only a village of some 500 houses, with a miserable mud fort. The former governor, Zullal Khan, who had lately been killed in a foray, was very civil to Arthur Conolly on his visiting Quetta some time ago, asking him, in the pride of his heart, if he had ever in his travels seen anything in the shape of a fortress stronger or more imposing than his own. He said to him also, with almost prophetic sagacity, 6 that he knew he (Conolly) had some ulterior object in visiting Quetta, and not the mere love of travelling; that he was in fact the forerunner of a British army.’ So it has now turned out, although the old man has, perhaps happily for himself, not survived to prove the accuracy of his prognostica¬ tions.

The climate of Quetta is deliciously cool and bracing at this season. The whole army, including Shah Soojah and his troops, were collected here by April 4, by which time supplies became so scarce that the troops, much to their discontent, were put upon half rations, and to escape starvation, Sir J. Keane wisely determined to ad¬ vance at once through the valley of Shawl to Candahar.

The army marched on April 7 to Koochlak, and next

CH. I.

KOJUK PASS.

day to Hykalzie, a distance of twenty miles. I was on baggage guard with my troop. After advancing a couple of miles we reached the banks of the Lora river, where there was a complete stoppage in order to get the camels across, and the confusion and crowding were terrible. A fine wheat-field was close at hand, and I improved the opportunity by letting my men graze their poor starved horses for an hour in it. By this time the baggage had crossed the stream, and we pushed on another two miles, when we had again to cross the river. We came up to my regiment at the ford, the men having dismounted; a number of the troopers being required to assist a camel battery to cross the stream. This operation lasted two hours, but at length, with great trouble, we got over, and reached our camp at Hykalzie, after a very fatiguing march through ravines and barren country. Our horses suffered much from fatigue and starvation, and many of them had to be abandoned and destroyed. On April 10 we made another long and fatiguing march, losing on the way no less than fifty-eight horses—eight of them belonging to my own troop. The artillery horses were so completely worn out that they had to be unyoked, and the guns hauled along by the soldiers. We. marched on the 11th through the Pisheen valley to the mouth of the Kojuk Pass, which we had to traverse before reaching Candahar. This defile is, for four miles of the distance, so narrow, that even after all the efforts of our engineers, only a single camel could advance at a time. Sir John Keane consequently issued an order to diminish each camel load as much as practicable, as in the event of any anima l falling on the road, he and his load must be thrown over the precipice to prevent those in the rear being stopped. Considerable delay occurred before the troops

IO FORTY-THREE YEARS IN INDIA. ch. i.

could enter the defile, and it was only on the 15 th that it came to our turn to advance. I walked the entire way through the pass. The road for the first four miles was wide and good; then it became very steep and narrow, the hills closing in on each side to within fifty yards of the track. Much baggage, many tents, and a considerable quantity of stores had to be abandoned on the road, which the Beloochee robbers, hanging on our rear, soon appro¬ priated. It was not until April 18 that the entire force, having passed through this formidable defile, was collected together at a place called Dandee Groolaiee. There the climate became rather trying, causing considerable sick¬ ness among the troops, the thermometer registering 54° at sunrise, and rising to 100° by noon.

Having halted at Dundee Groolaiee for some days, we marched on the 24th to Killah Abdullah, and the next day to Killa Quazee. These two were our most trying marches since leaving Ferozepore, the heat being intense, and no water procurable, as the Affghans had cut off the stream which previously flowed through the valley by diverting it into a new channel at its source in the hills, some sixteen miles distant. The troopers had to dismount and drive their horses before them; and I really believe that if attacked, not a hundred effective men could have been mustered in the three regiments—the 16th Lancers, the 2nd and 3rd Light Cavalry—to oppose an enemy. Numbers of native women, with their children, notwith¬ standing many prohibitions, had accompanied the army from India, and the sufferings of these poor creatures from thirst and heat were most terrible; a great many dropped down and died on the line of march. I saw a trooper of the 16th Lancers, who had a soda-water bottle half full of water, pour the whole contents down the throat

CH. I.

REACH CANDAHAR* ii of a poor native woman’s child, who was justifying of thirst. I could have hugged the fellow for his nobj ^atetf^ t disinterested act.

Upon the 23rd, our camp was pitched on the hank of the Dooree river. Its flowing stream was indeed a most refresh¬ ing and delightful sight to us, who had so lately undergone such intense misery from the want of water. From hence we moved on the 24th to Dilkazee, seventeen miles from Candahar, a considerable village of some 2,000 houses, but entirely deserted, the inhabitants having abandoned their homes on our approach. Eumours reached us that we should probably be attacked by the Baruckzye sirdars, the brothers, of Dost Mahomed, who were in force in the neighbourhood, but instead of offering any opposition, they fled with their troops, leaving Can¬ dahar to be occupied, without any show of resistance. Shah Soojah was formally installed here as king of Affghanistan, without, however, any symptom of the in¬ terest or enthusiasm which we were led to expect on the part of his subjects, at the restoration of the ancient Doorannee dynasty.

The whole of our army had, by April 27, reached Candahar, and was encamped on the plains near the city. The appearance of the town greatly disappointed me, as I expected to find the capital of western Affghan¬ istan a far larger and more imposing place, instead of being merely composed of mud houses, surrounded by a wall of sun-dried bricks.

The Shah held a reception of the British officers while the army remained at Candahar. We were, one after another, presented to his Majesty in due form, and were the only persons who congratulated his Majesty on his accession. None of his own subjects came in to pledge

FORTY-THREE YEARS IN INDIA .

CH. i.

their allegiance, and the country was clearly against us. Their hostility was unmistakeably shown by attack¬ ing a party of our officers who had proceeded a short way from camp, killing Lieut. Inverarity, of the 16th Lancers, and wounding severely another officer; the murderers, of course, escaping without detection. We remained at Candahar until June 27, when the army made its first march towards Cabul, leaving behind a garrison in Can¬ dahar, and with them, unfortunately, the heavy battering guns, as we expected to meet no opposition at Ghuznee, on our route to the capital. The country, until we passed Khelat-i-Ghilze, was most uninteresting, bare and rocky, but afterwards became well cultivated, intersected by flowing streams and watercourses, with numerous and apparently flourishing villages, surrounded by clumps of large fine trees. The country people willingly sold us grain, and brought in goats and sheep of the large broad¬ tailed Doombah species.