The red reign; the true story of an adventurous year in Russia

Front matter

ERED

THE TRUE STORY OF AN ADVENTUROUS YEAR

IN RUSSIA

Contents

Introduction xix

Importance of movement called Russian revolution— Its varied aspects— Inevitableness of revolution in Russia- Causes- The disease of autocracy — Insincerity of manifesto of October, 1905, seen in gradual withdrawal of constitutional rights then guaranteed — Elements of disintegration in Russian state — Ninety per cent, of Russian people now oppose existing regime — Startling record of killed and wounded in 1906— Compared to French Terror — Length of Russian struggle compared to other revolutions in history — Author's qualifications for present undertaking — Varied experience among Cossacks, terrorists, and peasants.

Chapter I. Into the Shadow 3

The White Terror — My fi^rst conspiracy— A frontier episode — A mixed company — ' ' Vivo la Revolution ! " — The "Quiet Capital" — A coui-tesy to Americans — A friend's naiTow escape — A midnight incident— Early bewilderment— Witte "more a stratagem tlian a man" — The ministerial crisis— The deposed minister— Significant telegrams from the provinces- Off to the Caucasus.

Chapter II. Among Officers of the Czar ... 25

Welcomed by officers of the guard— Being CossacTcized— An interrupted sleep— Presentation to the Governor- General— An amusing interview— The General's vanity and how it was tickled— The story of the Cossacks— An Ingoosh brigand— An expedition into the mountains.

Chapter III. At Hojie With Cossacks .... 48

A Cossack village— An exhibition of horsemanship— An accident — IIow Cossacks are trained for service — Cossack local government— Basis of Cossack loyalty— Their attitude toward iniissacres- Cossacks of the Caucasus, like other tribes of the mountains, still unconquered— Back to Vladikavkaz.

X CONTENTS

Chapter IV. Under Martial Law 75

The joTirney to tlio " Oil City ''—First view of the Caspian — Armouiaus and Tartars— Russia's monstrous misrule— Titiis blood-stained and battered — How to wield a Caucasian dagger— Daily perils— Chiaroscuro of officers' life— A stirring departure.

Chapter V. With the Ariviy op " Pacification " . 95

Arrival in Kutais— A siege city — "The very walls have ears"— Cossack barracks-Loot— " Bloody " Alikhanoff— A dramatic interview— Justification for burning homes- Military outrages— Why the inhabitants of the Caucasus are revolutionists and terrorists.

Chapter VI. Courting Arrest 121

A journey in the interior— Warned back— The start— A typical Volga province— Causes of the famine— Arrival at Tsaritzin— Two medical stiidents- "Open ! Open to the Police ! "—The search— Condition of the peasants- Pesky —A group of remarkable personalities— Village customs— A dramatic meeting— A night ride— A sudden interruption in our plan.

Chapter VEI. In Prison 138

Questioned by the Police-Taken— Five charges to account for— Accused of being an agitator— Eighteen versts to the gendarmerie— A tedious night— Back to Saratofif— "Take the dogs away "—Prison— Clamoring for freedom- Discouragement-Parole —Release.

Chapter VIII. A Visit to Marie Spiradonova . 155

A tyrannical regime— A young girl's daring— Tortures and outrages— Entertained by the governor— A kindly police-master— Grim prison walls— Difficulties— Appeal to the governor— Shackled prisoners— Marie Spiradonova— A terrible tale— Interruptions— " Greetings to France, to England, and to America"— A Spartan mother- Letters from the fair prisoner.

Chapter IX. Watching the Duma at Work . . 177

The famous October manifesto— Skepticism of Russian people toward promise of Constitution— Difficulties placed in way of honest voting— Czar's insincerity and duplicity- Fundamental and oxeoptional laws— Ministerial change on eve of Duma — St. Petersburg possessed by troops— The Winter Palace spectacle— The throuo speech— Disap-

CONTENTS xi

pointment of deputies— "Amnesty ! Amnesty !"—" The first shot "—Make-up of first Duma— First session — Zeal of representatives— Hostile attitude of government- Work of Duma— Governmental policy of obstruction- Dissolution- The Viborg manifesto— The present peril — The promise of the futiire in the light of the attitude of the Czar.

Chapter X. A Conspirative Meeting 207

A member of the military organization— Kronstadt — Revolutionary headquarters among the soldiers and sailors — A conspirative gathering — Smuggling forbidden literature— A surprise— Disguised as a Russian sailor— A thrilling expei'ience— An inspiring episode— Shadowed ! — Flight— Plan of escape— Capture deferred.

Chapter XI. The Kronstadt Uprising .... 223

Kronstadt on the eve of mutiny— Influences encouraging uprising— Make-up of the garrison— Wild rumors— A grand plan for general army and navy uprising — A successful beginning— Silence — A momentous telegram— A sudden signal— Mutiny— Trapped !— Slaughter — Illuminating lessons of the Kronstadt fiasco— The terrible cost in life and liberty.

Chapter XII. Governjiental Terrorism .... 237

Arrival in Bielostok— First impressions— Stories of the injured — The crucifix as a weapon of death— The hospital fired upon— Children victims — Failure of government to place responsibility— Mass of evidence pro\'ing governmental complicity in massacres — Other massacres officially instigated— Prince Urusoff's speech— The assassination of Professor Hertzenstein— A celebrated Moscow physician murdered— Warsaw horrors — Upon whom rests the responsibility?—Arrest of Pasha— Shooting a girl in prison- Bureaucracy guilty of murder and assassination— Placing the responsibility on the Czar— The arch-terrorist and assassin of Russia.

Chapter XIII. Ajhd Warsaw Contrasts . , . 265

Seething Poland— Governmental lawlessness— Overwhelming little Poland by sheer force of numbers— Twice over the Polish frontier— A panic of Warsaw Jews— Russian oppression—A nervous populace— Campaign to exterminatoWarsaw police— Hopeless plight of latter— A pathetic incident —Where poverty stalks— Effect of era of misery and chaos upon Warsovians— Traffic in white slaves— Daily occurxii CONTENTS

rences— A Warsaw hospital— Chiaroscuro in the T'olisli capital— Parties of Poland— Poles traditional revolutionists

— llopo anil oi)timisui temperamental characteristics of the Polish people.

Chapter XIV. Among the MuzHn« 287

Importance of the muzhik in the future— Ancient republican traditions— Greek church and bureaucracy non-Russian institutions— Weight of the peasant vote in the Duma- How the peasant's belief in "God and Czar" is waning

— Strokes of disillusionment— Indifference to time — Muzhik nonchalance — Strange sects-Muzhik religion— A cliaracteristic legend— Practical ethics— The muzhik not necessarily lazy— Muzhik shrewdness— The dawning of self-consciousness.

Chapter XV. The Peasant Awakening . . . .311

The period of repression following the Duma dissolution— Under arrest in Moscow— The cradle of the Romanoft's- A peasant gathering— Outspoken muzhiks— A " constituent assembly "—Rational opinions of the Viborg manifesto — Nijni Novgorod— The great fair— A disturbed province —Kazan— A journey to the interior— A visit to Prince Ouktomsky — Professor Vassiliev and his family — Advanced ideas of the peasants— Simbirsk, the "Mountain of the Winds" — An illiterate government — What the peasants want — Entering the famine belt.

Chapter XVI. Through the Hungry Country . 341

Heart of the famine region— Terrible pictures of starvation —Peasants feeding the thatch from the roofs of their houses to cattle— Auctioning cattle and horses for a song— How the workers and breadwinners suffer first- Inability of the government to cope with situation— Peasants pledge their labor for years to come to secure food for their families for the present time— Another arrest— Expulsion from the province.

Chapter XVII. In the Land of Lost Leaders . 3G0

Across the Urals— Into Siberia— Tlio Treimen waiting-prison- First exiles— The journey to Tobolsk— Secret night meeting of politicals— Hardships of exile — Splendid personnel of prisoners— Forced into daily contact with foul disease— Starvation— Life among the Ostiaks— Lack of medical aid— Siberia, a monumental crime— The journey back.

CONTENTS xiii

Chapter XVIII. My Friends, the Terrorists . 387

"Terrorism" almost imiversally misuuderstood in America — Terrorism a philosophy based ou logical, intelligent, dispassionate reasoning — Exceptional incidents that merely prove the rule— Relation of terrorists to whole revolutionary movement— Differentiation of the several leading revolutionary parties — Thoughtful and humane methods of recent terrorists— Capture of "The Bear" — Two girl terrorists executed at Kronstadt — The dai'ing Maximalists — "Flying bands" — Rigid morals of terrorists— Total abstainers— Personnel of the Maximalists — A famous "expropriation"—Plot ou the Duma — Bomb in the home of Prime Minister Stolypin— The most daring plot of all.

Chapter XIX, A Close Call 410

A midnight meeting — An unusual request — Four women of " the movement"— A sharp engagement— How the plot was carried out— Plans for escape— Disappointment— An educated cab-driver— A bold scheme— A unique "bridal" party — No news — Alarm — On the trail— A gendarme companion-Suspicious incidents— A night alarm— Caught — A desperate chance— "Au revoir"— Found— Back to the fight— Watched— Final escape.

Chapter XX. With the Russian Workivian . . 433

Yusofka for a week-end- An exciting journej'— A late welcome— Guarded slumber— The story of Yusofka — The Black Country of Russia— Time of small consecpience to Russian workmen — Russian holidays numerous — The working-day— Cost of living not low — Coal-mines — The Artel — Morality— The drink question — Througli a Russian coal-mine — Tlie Russian engineer an obstacle to progress — Child-labor laws good— Conditions comparcKl with Scotland and Pennsylvania— Comparative wage scale— Standards of living — Departure from Yusofka.

Chapter XXI. Tolstoi— Odessa— Constantinople 456

A visit to Russia's grand old man— An interesting yamschik— Tolstoi's views on the present struggle — His world-wide interests — The varied an<l interesting Tolstoi household — On to the Crimea— Odcssii-Tlie Bhick Hnndred organization—Promoting massacres — Quitting Odessa during a dock strike — A P.hick Ilundrod crew- DifTiciilties at sea- Back to Odessa — A frosli start — A motley cargo of passengers—Bokhara jjilgrims bound for Mecca, Central Asia xiv CONTENTS

Jews journeying to Jerusalem, German Lnlberans— Crossing the Black Sea— Arrival in Constantinople.

Chapter XXII. The Trend 481

"VMiitlier? The future of Russia— Why the revolution has not yet succeeded— Probable outcome of the struggle— Inevitableness of eventual overthrow of present regime- Attitude of foreign Powers— The Russian j)eoi)le during the period of rebellion— Effect upon national character— The Czar and the people— The Czar and the world— What we may expect.

Appendices 497

A— Caucasian testimony; B— The Duma's Reply to the Throne Speech; C— M. Lopuchin's letter to M. Stolypin ; D— Report on Siedlce pogrom; E— Notes on Wages and Cost of Living.

Index 529

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

The author and his "brigand guide and interpreter . . Frontispiece

Moscow barricades 8

Map : Mr. Durland's route of travel 10

Moscow barricades 13

The " Volksguard " of Salisburg 22

The Governor-General of the Terek 39

My host — Prince Andronnikov. Some of my officer companions 44

A Cossack house. Interior of the above 50

Outside a Cossack yard. My Cossack driver at home with his

family 55

Cossack women on frontier duty in the Province of Assouri . . 61

Orenburg Cossacks — a family group 68

A Cossack village — Province of the Don. A group of Don Cossacks at breakfast 71

Arrest of suspected working-men — an hourly incident in Baku.

Devastated oil-fields. Baku 82

Tiflis. Showing result of artillery fii-e on town 85

Caucasian tj^pes 92

A Georgian village 97

Alikhanoff's Cossacks 104

Guerrilla warfare 109

"Pacification" 117

The peasants' friend. Medical students from Moscow University in charge of a famine relief station in Saratoff . . .128 A typical cottage in the famine district of Saratoff. Examination of credentials 134

A village priest entering a house to bless the bread after the

Lenten fast 151

Governor Xanugievitch of Tamboff 157

Mario Spinulonova in prison — the girl who shot the governor of

Tamboff 168

XV xvi LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS

PAOE

Wliere the first Duma met 179

The Emperor reading bis throne speech 186

Two Constitutional Democratic leaders in the first Duma . . 197

The Duma lobby 203

The Kronstadt insurrection. Loyal troops sent to quell Kron-

stadt mutiny 233

Youth and old age — Bielostok pogrom victims 249

An infantry patrol. Warsaw. Three soldiers to guard each

policeman. Warsaw 270

"Bomb order" 279

A gi'oup of leading men in a starving village 290

Women making hay. The " sleeping-box " over the stove. The

platform is the family bed in the warm weather .... 295

A \'illago boulevard. A Russian cemetery 301

A Russian farmer 308

Tartar types — East Russia 325

Carriage used by bomb-throwers at Stolypin's house .... 330

Starving peasants in a Tartar village 343

Everything eaten up 349

Famine 354

In the waiting-prison at Tyumen. Ostiaks 363

The great Siberian Trakt 371

Siberia: the start into the Interior 378

Sozonoff — a typical Siberian exile of the intellectual class.

Head of a convoy of prisoners on the great Siberian Trakt 383 Horse killed by small bomb thrown to stop the carriage in which

state money was being conveyed 395

The TSTeck of M. Stolypin's room 406

An "expropriation" 413

Russian workmen and their " arteZ " 443

A Russian coal-miner 451

Cossacks on patrol duty. Victims of a Cossack pogrom . . . 469

Nicholas W. Tchaykovsky, " Father of the Russian Revolution" 487

Catherine Breshkovsky 491

Introduction

Importance of movement called Russian revolution— Its varied aspects— Inevitableness of revolution in Russia — Causes — The disease of autocracy — Insincerity of manifesto of October, 1905, seen in gradual withdrawal of constitutional rights then guaranteed— Elements of disintegration in Russian state — Ninety per cent, of Russian people now oppose existing regime — Startling record of kiLed and wounded in 1906 — Compared to French Terror— Length of Russian struggle compared to other revolutions in history — Author's qualifications for present undertaking — Varied experience among Cossacks, terrorists and peasants.

The Russian revolution is one of the vital issues of the world to-day. The political revolt, presenting, as it does, so many unique and dramatic developments, tends to distract the attention of the world from the broader, deeper, and certainly not less important, phases of the movement which are found in the social and economic upheaval. The working out of these forcespolitical, social, economic— in one stupendous movement, constitutes one of the great revolutions of history. Revolution implies absolute change. Whether civil war, or intense parliamentary struggle, or both, is the method of accomplishment, is of small consequence. The ultimate outcome is the same. The present movement of the Russian people toward a changed condition of life is but the manifestation of underlying forces of history and destiny to which all nations must yield. Revolution \v Russia during the first quarter of the twentieth century is as inevitable as the bursting of a Pelee or a Vesuvius ; as inexorable aud pitiless as an earthquake, or the passing of ancient empires.

xviii INTBODUCTTON

Revolutions are not made. They are not built upon the propaijanda of a political or economic cult. They do not depend upon the will of men— whether rulers or parliaments— as do wars. Revolutions are the result of internal mi wholesomeness— disease rooted in the body politic, too deep to be poulticed out by ameliorating reforms. The Russian revolution would be viewed as a world catastrophe Avere it not that the disease, of which the revolution is but a symptom, is infinitely more of a world menace. That disease is autocracy. Autocracy is a system of government incompatible with twentiethcentury civilization. Reforms which are reconcilable to Russian autocracy are inadequate to meet the present needs of the Russian people, and the meeting of these needs necessitates reforms of such far-reaching and radical a nature, that autocracy cannot admit them and continue to exist. Further, certain reforms and fundamental requirements are now so demanding and so acute that autocracy cannot much longer stand out against them. The period of transition from autocracy to constitutionalism, republicanism, or whatever the ultimate form of government accepted in Russia shall be, we call revolution. The word has no arbitrary meaning. It simply designates a period of national upheaval and struggle. In this sense the Russian revolution may be said to have come to a head on "Bloody Sunday," January 22, 1905, and will culminate only with the capitulation, or overthrow, of autocracy. The abyss toward which the Russian government is now tending is but the Nemesis of history.

The constitution which was wrung from the hands of the emperor on the 30th of October, 1905, when the rising tide of revolution threatened the very palace gates, is being gradually modified and withdrawn piece-

INTEODUCTION xix

meal, and if the emperor has his way not a vestige of it will long remain. The fundamental rights of men, which it pretends to guarantee the Russian people, are as non-existent in the Russia of 1906 as they were in 1806, before the first faint mutterings of the coming storm had been heard. Not one, but all, of the guaranteed rights of that manifesto have been withdrawn under so-called "temporary" laws and regulations, and under the cloak of military law. The rights of free speech, writing, assemblage, in\'iolabilit3'" of person and home, still remain Utopian dreams of a distant day. This manifesto clearly and unequivocally guaranteed "freedom of conscience, freedom of speech, freedom of association, freedom of public assembly, and real inviolability of personal rights." And yet of the approximately 486 members of the first Duma— the chosen representatives of the Russian people — one (Professor Hertzenstein) has been murdered by the "Black Hundred"; one priest excommunicated; two members have been beaten ; ten are in hiding ; five have been exiled ; twenty-four are in prison; thirty-three have been arrested and searched; and one hundred and eighty -two are under indictment on the cha^rge of treason.^ An obviously anomaloas situation.

"If a strong, central government becomes disorganized, if inefficiency, or idleness, or above all, dishonesty, once obtain a ruling place in it, the whole government body is diseased."- No modern state, save Turkey, is more imiversally honeycombed with official inefficiencies and corruption than Russia, and even Turkey's central government to-day represents more solidity than the Rassian. The only possible justification for despotism

1 ThpRfifignres apply to a period six months after the dissolution of the first Duma. 'i l^owell, "Eve of the French Revolution," page 11.

XX INTRODUCTION

of any character is in its actual power, and in its fruits. ^Military despotism in Russia not only broke doAMi, but was hopelessly shattered by the inglorious and ignominious war with Japan. The hold that autocracy once maintained on the Russian people then loosened. It has been steadity weakening ever since Tsushima and the fall of Port Arthur, followed by the shadow of Mukden, which passed westward across the empire. Dishonesty and corruption stamps every one of Peter's fourteen bureaucratic ranks. The war disclosed an enormous extent of thievery in all departments of the service. Especially sensational revelations came to light in connection with the Red Cross, where the funds were most flagrantly misappropriated— a portion of the spoils even going to the grand dukes. So recently as January, 1907, the Assistant Minister of Interior, Gourko, was involved in one of the most outrageous scandals in all the annals of Russian corruption— namely, the misappropriation of a large per cent, of one of the all too inadequate appropriations of money for the relief of the starving peasants.

A state eaten with official rottenness; an emperor attempting not only to rule but to do the thinking for 142,000,000 of people ; an economic condition of such a character that annual famine falls like a pall over vast areas (in the winter of 1906-7 taking within its grasp 30,000,000 of men, women, and children) ; an army spotted with disaffection; a navy almost chronically mutinous; a people held in artificial tranquillity, through the terrorism of martial law, which now spreads over four fifths of European Russia ; a critical financial situation, impending bankruptcy within and the largest foreign loan in history to eventually meet,— these are some of the elements of the Russian situation of the

INTRODUCTION xxi

present time which must be met by reforms involving changes so complete as to amount to revolution.

At the beginning of 1907 probably 90 per cent, of the people of Russia were opposed to the present government, for during the past two years even the peasants have had opinions of their o\\ti, based on their loss of faith in the "Little Father." But reigning circles have all of the organized armed force of the country at their command, and so peculiarly effective is the sj^stem of discipline employed, that against the imarmed population even of overwhelming superiority in point of numbers, this position is tenable for a surprising time. On the other hand, a trifling incident might turn the scales in a night. In a phrase used by Professor Miliukoff, the Russian situation to-day presents : ' ' An incompetent government opposed by a thus far incapable revolution." The government, unable itself to administer or to rule, is yet able to disorganize the ranks of revolution and to terrorize into inactivity a large portion of the country. The revolution, at the same time, while unable to muster open organization of fighting strength sufficient to overthrow the government, is able to harass and embarrass the government at every point and gradually to force it further and further into an impasse from which it can never emerge.

During the year 1906, according to official figures, more than 36,000 people were killed and woimded in revolutionary conflict; over 22,000 suffered in anti- Semitic outbreaks, most of which were promoted by governmental agents; over 16,000 so-called agrarian disorders occurred. Political arrests were so constant that during at least two months of tlie year— January and July— the aggregate number of men and women dragged from their homes and imprisoned or exiled was cstixxii INTRODUCTION

mated at 25,000 per )))o»th. Late in the summer of 1906 Premier Stol3'piii inaugurated tlie drumhead field courts-martial, which became immediately so active that according to an ofificial statement issued on March 5, 1907, 764 persons had been executed— an average of j&ve daily.

These figures loom large indeed when it is recalled that in France, during the Terror, only 2,300 heads fell from the guillotine block, and that during the entire French Revolution only about 30,000 lives were sacrificed.

Here is clear indication of constant activity on both sides. In spite of this loss of life, this spent and often misspent energy, unnumbered crimes against generations unborn, it must be admitted that the progress of revolution is never comparably swift to the movement of wars. By the very nature of revolutionary struggles they must drag. In England the Revolution lasted from 1640 to 1689; in France twelve years of constant conflict and struggle were followed by decades of unrest and periodic disturbance ; in Italy the fight dragged on from 1821 till 1870; and so will the Russian revolution be prolonged. Compared with the revolutionary movements of history, however, Russia is making rapid progress. The stupendousness of the Russian situation, with a heterogeneous population of 142,000,000 of people scattered over an empire which includes one sixth of the territory of the world, makes an almost unreckonable problem— infinitely more vast and more complicated than the situation in France in 1789.

There are many available books in English, French, and German which present the conditions of Russia on the eve of revolution. The task which I assume is to present a picture of Russia in revolution. The year 1906 may be accepted as a typical revolutionary year.

INTEODUCTION xxiii

Between January and December of that year I traveled through every section of European Russia, Poland and the Caucasus, and a part of western Siberia. Of the spectacular and dramatic events which characterized the year, I witnessed not a few, but the really significant features of the year are the not less intense phases of the social and economic disturbances, and these I aim to make clear to the average reader.

In thus attempting to present, as it were, a cross section of the revolution, I undertake not so much a difficult task, as one which demands peculiar opportunities and advantages. To forestall natural queries, therefore, I may be permitted to state that my own point of view has been uniquely varied. Shortly after my arrival in St. Petersburg influential friends, affiliated with the court, made it possible for me to join a group of fourteen Cossack officers who were about to journey through the Caucasus. Most, if not all, of these men had formerly been officers of guard regiments and had been temporarily assigned to a Cossack regiment for the war, in order that they might have opportimity to distinguish themselves, thus paving the way for speedy promotion. The commander of the regiment, who was the chief of our party, was an aide-de-camp to the Czar. My particular host was a Georgian prince who has since rejoined his regiment, which is attached to the person of the Empress. To be an officer or even by birth a member of the court party does not naturally preclude liberal or even revolutionary sympathies, but it so happened that all of the officers who made up this little company were staimch supporters of the Czar and of autocracy. All that I witnessed of race clashes; of the pacific-ation of insubordinate villages; the devastation of districts which should have been fertile and xxiv INTRODUCTION

prosperous; of pillage, ami loot, and tlu! violation of Ihc laws and customs adopted by civilized nations for international warfare, I witnessed, as it were, from the inside. Protected by the officer's uniform which I wore, I rode with the Cossacks, entered their barracks freely under circumstances where any ordinary traveler would not have been permitted to have passed the lines. I was even accorded the privilege of using my camera at will. Through Great Russia and the provinces I passed as an ordinary traveler, provided with the usual letters of sanction, and permits from central and local authorities, but without special introductions.

In St. Petersburg and Moscow during the session of the first Duma I cultivated the acquaintance of the "intellectuals" who at that time bade fair to be a dominant force in Russia. Men of the type of Professor Paul Miliukoff, Maxime Kovalevsky, Dr. Loris-Melikoff, and other thinkers and scholars who would, if they could, lead Russia through her period of regeneration and reorganization by confining the struggle to the halls of Parliament, dreading as they do, and distrusting bloodshed and civil war. After the dissolution I atfiliated almost entirely with the avowedly revolutionary parties. I cultivated members of the military organization and with them visited the barracks at Kronstadt and elsewhere, where I witnessed conspirative revolutionary meetings of soldiers and sailors. Through the courtesy of a local governor I was permitted to visit in prison the most noted terrorist of the year in Russia, :\Iarie Spiradonova ; and later, through my revolutionary connections, I established commimications with the more active fighting organization kno\\Ti to the world as ' ' The Terrorists." With their introductions as well as Avith the introductions given me by the constitutionalists of

INTRODUCTION xxv

the Duma, in the late summer and early autumn I traveled eastward through Great Russia, across the tremendous famine belt, passed the Urals and entered Siberia, returning to St. Petersburg across Perm, Vj^atka, and Vologda, — provinces of northern Russia. My sole aim during all these journeyings was to acquire as nearly as I could an accurate picture of Russia in revolution. My purpose now is to present as nearly an accurate and truthful a picture of what I saw and of what I learned as possible. Wlien one has witnessed at close quarters the devastations of villages by the army ; when one has seen with his own eyes unarmed men, women, and children of tender years shot by soldiers, torn and maimed by swords and bayonets; when one has acquired absolutely an overwhelming proof of official responsibility for massacre; when one has seen homes burned indiscriminately and merely "suspected" revolutionists exiled without even the forms of a trial, one cannot speak with any degree of sympathy for the government which stands behind all of these things. Yet I strive to the uttermost to be fair to that side and to present as cogently as one can the elements of truth to which the government still clings. The point of view throughout is that of an American who is not unmindful of the dramatic elements of the fight nor of the picturesque and frequently romantic environments of the struggle; at the same time it is of one whose deepest interest lies in tlie social and economic causes which lie at the bottom of the whole vast movement, and whose previous training has fitted him to watch with a clearer perception perhaps than is usually given to the casual traveler, or newspaper correspondent, the progress of the social and economic development through this period of storm and stress.

"Nous ne supposons I'ieji, nous ne proposons rien, nous exposons."

Chapter I

The white terror — My first conspiracy — A frontier episode — A mixed company— "Vive la Revolution! "—The "Quiet Capital" — A courtesy to Americans — A friend's narrow escape — A midnight incident — Early bewilderment — Witte "more a stratagem than a man" — The ministerial crisis— The deposed minister — Significant telegrams from the provinces — Off to the Caucasus.

jHE wave of revolution which swept over Russia in the year of grace 1905 culminated in a series of insurrections during that week of December which is celebrated throughout the western world in sacred memory of the birth of the Prince of Peace. As the dawn of 1906 crept reluctantly across the torn and disintegrating empire of the czars, there was inaugurated a reign of reaction unparalleled since the melancholy days of '81 which followed the assassination of Alexander II. Russia named this period of shadow The Repression. The people called it the White Terror. Into this lugubriousness, whatever it be called, I was about to enter. In Berlin I lingered a day or two. Even when a bright northern sun fell not unkindly upon the German capital I could not wholly shake off the disquieting feeling that I dare say most foreigners experience when about to cross the Russian frontier for the first time.

Hordes of Russians were pourinj;; into the city. It seemed that every family Avho could spare the railroad fare was sending its most beloved members across the borders of the Land of Ominous Promise. According to the Berlin police-records as many as ten thousand sometimes arrived in a single day.

The good Herr proprietor of the Gasthaus where I was quartered came to my room to implore me to reconsider entering the country at so disturbed a time. In his hand he brought, for my edification, and as a warning, a copy of the following notice which was being posted throughout a certain district I would pass on the way to St. Petersburg, commanded by one Colonel Jablonsky. A fleeing Russian had smuggled it out to help him dissuade rash travelers about to enter his country :