Recollections of Mexico

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Preface

I have yielded with a good deal of reluctance to the importunities of many of my friends in consenting to devote the little leisure which is left me from professional and other avocations, to writing the following pages. No thought of such a thing ever occurred to me during my residence in Mexico, or I should have supplied myself, as I had abundant means of doing, with the materials for such a work. The book, therefore, will be . found to contain just what its title imports — “ Recollections and Desultory Dissertations.” The reader must not expect the life and freshness of a finished picture, but mere sketches and outlines — nor that minute exactness of detail on many subjects which may be desirable, although I believe that the sketches will be found to be generally accurate ; I can say in the words of an affidavit to an answer in chancery, “that the facts stated as of my own knowledge are true, and those stated on the information of others I believe to be true.” I am not sure, however, that a description of the customs, scenes, and peculiarities of a country is not generally the better for being written a year or two after the writer has left it. The want of exactness in minute particulars is compensated by the absence of a sometimes wearisome tediousness of detail, and often of circumstances of interest only to the writer. And it is perhaps also true that the general remembrance — a sort of skeleton map which is left on the mind of the writer will give to the reader a more accurate coup d’ccil of the country and all its peculiarities, physical and social, than a more minute description. Before I went to Mexico I sought in vain for some work which would give me some idea of the society, manners, and customs of that unique, and, in a great degree, primitive people. This want has been since supplied. I could have

VI

PREFACE.

dilated these sketches to an almost indefinite extent, but I have endeavored to avoid tediousness and drivelling, and have therefore omited to notice many things which at first struck me as very strange. I have visited no other Catholic country ; but to one educated in the unostentatious purity and simplicity of the Protestant religion, there is something very striking in the pomp and pageantry of the Catholic ritual as it exists in Mexico, and I must say something equally revolting in its disgusting mummeries and impostures, which degrade the Christian religion into an absurd, ridiculous, and venal superstition. If such things are not practised in other Catholic countries, why, then the priests of Mexico are alone responsible ; but if these things are not confined to Mexico, the sooner and more generally they are exposed the better.

It is equally true of nations as of individuals, that those who are not entirely assured of a well-established and unquestioned position, are peculiarly sensitive to criticism, however kindly meant or respectfully expressed. Of no people in the world is this more true than of the Mexicans. They understand perfectly their true position in the estimation of the world, notwithstanding their characteristic vaunting and gasconade. I think that it is generally true that men are most apt to boast of qualities which they are conscious of not possessing. The Mexican character has much that is good in it, but very much also that is bad. In bearing testimony to the former, I cannot be silent as to the latter — for indiscriminate praise is in its effects censure. My fault has been much more that of extenuation than “ setting down aught in malice” — the latter would be impossible, for I was treated with so much kindness by people of all classes, from the lepero in the streets up to the President, that it would be a source of deep pain to me to know that I had wantonly wounded the feelings of any one person in the broad circumference of the Republic. I assure them in all sincerity that I take a deep interest in their continued advances in the great career of civil liberty, and their ultimate success in establishing Republican institutions on a permanent basis. God grant them success, both on their own account as well as for the great cause in which they have so long struggled, and under circumstances so discouraging.

February 2, 1846.

THE AUTHOR.

Chapter I

Departure from New Orleans — Peak of Orizaba — St. Juan de Ulloa —

City of Vera Cruz — The Vomito — Condition of the Negro Population— Mexican system of Servitude — New Custom House — Mexican and American contrasts 1

Chapter II

Line of Stages between Vera Cruz and Mexico — Noble Disinterestedness of an American Stage Driver — Vera Cruz to Jalapa — Miscellaneous Hints — Property of Santa Anna in Jalapa — Great beauty of its situation — Perote 10

Chapter III

Route to Puebla — Cultivation of the Soil— The Maguey — Pulque — Primitive Plough — Indifference to Agricultural Wealth — Robbers on the Road — Execution by the Garote — Gaming an Incentive to Robbery— Singular Story of a Robber 15

Chapter IV

Puebla the Lowell of Mexico — Obstacles to Manufactures — City of Cholula — Incredibility of Cortes’ Narrative — First sight of the Valley of Mexico — Description of the Valley — Neglect of resources in the supply of the Capital — Arrieros 27

Chapter V

The Cify of Mexico — The Palace — Cathedral — Wealth of the Church — Masses, a Productive System of Revenue — The Streets and Buildings of Mexico — Curious Position of Stables — Inundations of the City 37

Chapter VI

Early visit to Mr. Kendall, of the Santa Fe Expedition — Death of the wife of Santa Anna — Presentation to Santa Anna — Historical Sketch — Career of Santa Anna — Victoria 51

VI 11

CONTENTS.

Chapter VII

Official and Private Intercourse with Santa Anna — Santa Anna’s First Interview with General Jackson — His Explanation of the Massacre of the Alamo — Decimation of the Prisoners of Mier — Anecdotes of Gratitude and Humanity in Santa Anna — Character of Santa Anna.

Chapter XVII

Kindness and Courtesy— Society of Dinner Parties and Entertainments — Mexican Ladies wanting in Beauty — Do not dance well — Charity — Routine of daily Life — Costliness of Dress— In the Streets — Women generally Smoke — A day in the Country 160

Chapter XXI

Prohibition of Raw Cotton — Attempts to procure a Modification of this Policy — Public Debt of Mexico — Mines of the Precious Metals — Present Productiveness — Undeveloped Resources — Capacities of Mexico if inhabited by the people of the United States 201

Chapter XXII

Want of Navigable Streams in Mexico — Railroad from Vera Cruz to Mexico — Valley of the Mississippi — Mineral and Vegetable Productions— Cotton — Rice — Wax — Silk — Manufactures of Cotton — Mechanic Arts 205

Chapter XXIII

A Miscellany Chapter — Three Lions of Mexico — Calendar Stone — Burial Ground of Santa Maria— The Paseo — Santa Anna’s Coach

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CONTENTS.

driven by an American — Reflections — Mexican Carriages — Costly Equipage — Mexican Women on Horseback— The Theatre — The Bull Fight — Mean Temperature— Character of the Mexicans, by Clavigero 212

Chapter XXIV

Adjustment of American Claims — Order for the Expulsion of Americans from California Rescinded — Various Negotiations — Anecdote of Santa Anna’s love of Cock-fighting 223

Chapter XXV

The California Question — Captain Suter’s Settlement — Value of the Country — Importance to the United States — English Influence in Mexico — Annexation of Mexican Provinces to the United States — Present Relations , . 232

Conclusion . . 242

Appendix

Translation from the True History of the Conquest of New Spain, by

Bernal Diaz 252

Passage relating to General Victoria 274

The Execution of Morelos 277

Letter of General Jackson in Reference to a Texian Prisoner. ........ 279

Diplomatic Correspondence. 284

RECOLLECTIONS OF MEXICO.

Chapter I

Departure from New Orleans — Peak of Orizaba — St. Juan de Ulloa — City of Vera Cruz — The Vomito — Condition of the Negro Population — Mexican system of Servitude — New Custom House — Mexican and American, contrasts.

Not finding, on my arrival at New Orleans, the vessel which had been ordered there to carry me to Vera Cruz, and aware of the deep and general interest which was felt in the fate of the Texan prisoners of the Santa Fe Expedition, I determined to avail myself of the first conveyance which presented itself. The revenue cutter Woodbury was politely offered me by the Collector of the port of New Orleans, which I gladly accepted. The fine sailing qualities of this admirable little vessel, and the kindness of its excellent and most skilful officers, Capt. Nones and Lieutenants Faunce and Wilson, left me no cause to regret this determination. We left New Orleans on the 2d of April, 1842, and on the 9th were in sight of the Peak of Orizaba : but, from adverse winds, and no winds at all, we did not enter the harbor of Vera Cruz until the 10th, when we anchored under the walls of the ‘famous castle of St. Juan de Ulloa. Few sights can be more grand and imposing than the mountain of Orizaba, as seen from the 2

RECOLLECTIONS OF MEXICO.

[chap. I.

sea. The elevation of this mountain above the level of the sea is, according to Humboldt, 17,400 feet. All above the height of 15,092 feet is covered with snow — for that is the point at which, in that latitude, the region of perpetual snow begins. Clavijero, who is in general to be relied upon, says that this mountain is without any doubt the highest point of the territory of Mexico ; but in this he is mistaken - — subsequent more accurate observations and calculations have shown that PopocateptI, in the vicinity of the city of Mexico, has an elevation of 17,900 feet above the level of the sea. Orizaba is a volcanic mountain. In the year 1545 it emitted smoke and ashes ; but since that time there has been no eruption of any sort. It is about fifty miles from the coast, and may be seen at the distance of one hundred and fifty miles at sea. The first view which 3 had of it was literally a glimpse, for it was difficult to -distinguish the mountain from the clouds which surrounded it. I can conceive of nothing which conveys more of the sublime and beautiful than this lofty mountain, “ with its diadem of snow,” seen from on board a ship of war ; a union of all the grandeur and sublimity of a lofty mountain with the vastness and power of the ocean, and the symmetry and beauty of one of the noblest structures of man.

The little island of St. Juan de Ulloa, which is entirely ^covered with the fortress, is some five or six hundred yards .from the mole at Vera Cruz, between which points all the commercial shipping anchors. It can scarcely be called a harbor, but an open road, like most of the others on the Gulf of Mexico. It frequently occurs that violent north winds (called “ los nortes,” or northers) drive the vessels on shore, and seriously injure the mole itself. Vessels of war of other nations anchor about three miles below, near the . island of Sacrifices. A very narrow channel affords the

Chap. I.]

ST. JUAN DE ULLOA.

only passage for vessels of war, which must of necessity pass immediately under the guns of the fort. The fortress of St. Juan de Ulloa has always been looked upon as one of the strongest in the world. With a proper armament and competent engineers, I should regard it as almost impregnable, if indeed that term can now be with truth applied to any place after the recent inventions and improvements in this department of military science. When it was blown up in 1839, by the French, the armament was in a most wretched condition, and as to scientific engineers and artillerists, there were none. Even then it would not have been so much of a holiday affair as it was, had it not been for the accidental explosion of the magazine. Any future assailant must not expect so easy a victory if it is tolerably defended. I was very much surprised, however, to learn that, in the beginning of the year 1843, when an attack was anticipated from the English, General Santa Anna ordered the fortress to be dismantled, and the guns removed to Vera Cruz.

But Vera Cruz is much more effectually protected than by all her fortifications, by the northers and vomito (the yellow fever). The former have been the terror of all seamen since the discovery of the country. The latter prevails on all the Atlantic coast of Mexico during the whole year, and with the greatest malignancy for two-thirds of the year ; and it so happens, that the few months of comparative exemption from the ravages of the yellow fever are precisely those when the northers prevail with the most destructive violence.

I can see no advantage which could be gained by getting possession of Vera Cruz which would be at all commensurate with the loss of life, from disease alone, in retaining it. It is not the only port which Mexico possesses ;

RECOLLECTIONS OF MEXICO.

[chap. I.

and if it were, there is no country in the world which would be so little injured by cutting off all its foreign commerce, for there is no single want of civilized man which Mexico is not capable of furnishing. The town, it is true, might be destroyed, and heavy losses and much individual suffering be caused, but these are amongst the painful and deplorable consequences, not the legitimate objects of honorable war.

The present city of Vera Cruz is not the same which was built by Cortes, and which was the first European settlement ever made upon this continent, that is to say, in the year 1519. The villa rica de la Vera Cruz, the rich town of the true cross, which was settled by Cortes, is distant about six miles from the present city. Vera Cruz is rather a pretty town, with broad and reasonably clean streets. It would no doubt be as healthy as any other place in the same latitude and climate, if it were not for some large swamps in the rear of the city. The vomito is by no means the only, nor do I think it the most fatal of the diseases which prevail there. The bills of mortality in some years exhibit a great number of deaths from some other diseases, whilst in other years much the greatest number die of vomito. This difference is owing, I think, in a great degree, to the greater or less number of soldiers sent down there in the most sickly months — strangers alone being subject to the disease. There is no instance of a person born in Vera Cruz having been attacked by this disease, although carried away in early infancy, and not returning until fully grown. I have heard statements made upon this subject much stranger even than this. It is not regarded there as by any means the most dangerous type of fever. Eminent physicians have even told me that of all the forms of fever, they regarded it as the most

CHAP. I.]

YELLOW FEVER.

manageable and least dangerous, if medical aid is called for in due time. According to the estimates of those most entitled to confidence, less than five per cent, of those attacked die. This estimate does not include the patients in the hospitals, for the reason that the general terror of being sent to the hospital is so great, that many are deterred from applying for relief until their cases are beyond the reach of remedies. Some facts came under my observation which went very far to shake my confidence — never very great — in medical theories. The universal treatment of yellow fever, by the Vera Cruz physicians, is very simple, and certainly not very unpleasant ; — it is nothing more than cold applications to the stomach, and lime juice and sweet oil given internally; and this practice is so generally successful, as to give the result which I have stated — five per cent, of deaths. They say there that calomel is certainly fatal ; but hear the other, the calomel side of the question. The prisoners of the Santa Fe expedition were released on the 16th of June, and arrived at Vera Cruz in August, where they remained more than a month ; forty-five of them were attacked by the yellow fever, and in its most malignant form, as may be well supposed, from their irregular habits and the total destitution of all the comforts of a sick bed. They were attended by a young physician who belonged to the expedition, and whose practice was to give large doses oi calomel — not more than one died. I am not certain that a single one died of the disease.

There are a good many negroes in Vera Cruz ; more, probably, than in any other portion of Mexico. I did not see half-a-dozen negroes in the city of Mexico in a residence there of two years, and very few mulattoes. It is a very great mistake to suppose that they enjoy anything like a social equality, even with the Indian population ; and, al-

RECOLLECTIONS OF MEXICO.

though there are no political distinctions, the aristocracy of color is quite as great in Mexico as it is in this country ; and the pure Castillian is quite as proud that he is a man without 44 a cross,” as was old Leather-stocking, even if that cross should have been with the Indian race however remote. The negro, in Mexico, as everywhere else, is looked upon as belonging to a class a little lower than the lowest — the same lazy, filthy, and vicious creatures that they inevitably become where they are not held in bond^ age. Bondage or barbarism seems to be their destiny — a destiny from which the Ethiopian race has furnished no exception in any country for a period of time long enough to constitute an epoch. The only idea of the free negro of liberty in Mexico, or elsewhere, is exemption from labor, and the privilege to be idle, vicious, and dishonest ; as to • the mere sentiments of liberty, and the elevating consciousness of equality, they are incapable of the former ; and, for the latter, no such equality ever did or ever will exist. There is a line which cannot be passed by any degree of talent, virtue, or accomplishment. The greater the degree of these, which, in rare individual instances, may exist, and the nearer their possessors may approach this impassable barrier, they are only the more miserable. This may be called prejudice, but it is a prejudice which exists wherever the Caucasian race is found ; and nowhere is it stronger than in Mexico. The negro is regarded and treated there as belonging to a degraded caste equally as in the United States ; much more so than in South Carolina ; in quite as great a degree as in Boston or Philadelphia.

Whilst upon this subject, it may not be inappropriate to allude to the system of servitude which prevails in Mexico — a system immeasurably worse for the slave, in every aspect, than the institution of slavery in the United

CHAP. I.] SYSTEM OF SERVITUDE IN MEXICO.

States. The owners of the estates (haciendas) receive laborers into their service. These laborers are ignorant, destitute, half-naked Indians ; certain wages are agreed upon, which the employer pays in food, raiment, and such articles as are absolutely necessary ; an account is kept of all these things, and neither the laborer nor his family can ever leave the estate until all arrearages are paid. These of course, he has no means of paying but by the proceeds of his labor, which, being barely sufficient for his subsistence, he never can get free ; and he is not only a slave for life, but his children after him, unless the employer chooses to release him from his service, which he often finds it convenient to do when the laborer becomes old or diseased. Whatever may be the theoretical protection fru corporal punishment which the law affords him, the Mexican slave is, practically, no better off in this respect than is the African slave in this country. All the laborers in Mexico are Indians ; all the large proprietors Spaniards, or of mixed blood. I say all ; there may be a few exceptions, but they are very few of either. So of the army ; the higher officers are all white men, or of mixed blood, the soldiers all Indians.

The cathedral in Vera Cruz is a very decent Gothic building, with the same profusion of paintings and statuary which is to be found in all Mexican churches : making up in quantity what is wanting in quality. There may be seen there a wax figure of the Saviour laid in the tomb, of the life size, and singularly beautiful. There are three representations of the crucifixion, as large as life, and of different shades of color, each retaining all the features and lineaments to which we are accustomed in the portraits of Christ, somewhat strangely combined with the peculiarities of the physiognomy of two of the three races which con-

RECOLLECTIONS OF MEXICO.

[chap. I.

stitute the inhabitants of Vera Cruz — a pious fraud, no doubt intended to flatter each of those races for the good of their souls.

A new and very handsome custom house has just been completed on the mole at Vera Cruz. The material of which it is built is brought from Quincy, in Massachusetts, although there is stone equally good within ten miles of Vera Cruz, — a fact strikingly illustrative of the characters of the people of the two countries. Such comparisons, or rather contrasts, are, indeed, constantly presented to the American* travelling in Mexico.

Mexico was colonized just one hundred years before Massachusetts. Her first settlers were the noblest spirits of Spain in her Augustan age, the epoch of Cervantes, Cortes, Pizarro, Columbus, Gonzalvo de Cordova, Cardinal Ximenes, and the great and good Isabella. Massachusetts was settled by the poor pilgrims of Plymouth, who carried with them nothing but their own hardy virtues, and indomitable energy. Mexico, with a rich soil, and a climate adapted to the production of everything which grows out of the earth, and possessing every metal used by man — - Massachusetts, with a sterile soil and ungenial climate, and no single article for exportation but ice and rock — How have these blessings, profusely given by Providence, been improved on the one hand, and obstacles overcome on the other ? What is now the respective condition of the two countries ? In productive industry, wide-spread diffusion of knowledge, public institutions of every kind, general happiness, and continually increasing prosperity ; in letters, arts,

* Whenever I use the term American, I mean a citizen of the United States : as when we say Bonaparte, we mean Napoleon ; and it is so understood everywhere.

CHAP. I.]

AMERICAN AND MEXICAN CONTRASTS.

morals, religion ; in everything which makes a people great, there is not in the world, and there never was in the world, such a commonwealth as Massachusetts. “ There she is ! look at her !” — and Mexico.

Chapter II

Line of Stages between Vera Cruz and Mexico — Noble Disinterestedness of an American Stage Driver — Vera Cruz to Jalapa — Miscellaneous Hints — Property of Santa Anna in Jalapa — Great beauty of its situation— Perote.

There is a very good line of stages, making three trips every week between Vera Cruz and Mexico, which has entirely superseded all other modes of conveyance. Although the fare is enormously high, yet it is much cheaper than the litera, more expeditious and on every account more pleasant — except that the literas are very rarely robbed. This line was established by an American some years since, but is now owned by a rich Mexican — who is daily growing wealthier by it. The horses are all Mexican, generally small, but of great spirit and durability ; seven horses are generally driven, two at the wheels, then three abreast and two more in the lead. The stages are built at Troy, New York, and the drivers are all Americans — and a most worthy set of fellows they are.

I cannot forbear to mention here a matter honorable to two of my countrymen. When the prisoners of the Texan Santa Fe expedition were liberated by General Santa Anna, in June, 1842, they were furnished with as much money as was supposed to be necessary to take them home. But being unable to procure a vessel, and consequently detained some time in Yera Cruz, they were without money or credit, and in the midst of disease and death. Mr. L. S. Hargoos, an American merchant, with a liberality and hu-

Chap. Ii.] Disinterestedness Of A Stage Driver. 11

manityof which few men would have been capable in like circumstances, advanced them between ten and fifteen thousand dollars. Some time afterwards he travelled to Mexico in the stage, and rode outside with the driver Nathan Gilland, a native of New York. Gilland asked him if it was true that he had advanced so large a sum to the Texans as he had heard. Mr. Hargoos told him that it was.

The next morning about the time the stages were starting from Perote, the one returning to Jalapa, the other going to Mexico, Gilland took Mr. Hargoos aside and said to him, “ Sir, I do not think it right that you should suffer all the loss by the Texans — you knew none of them and only relieved them because they were Americans ; now, I think it nothing but fair that all the Americans in Mexico should share the loss, and here are two hundred dollars which I am willing to give for my part of it.” “ Very well, Nathan,” said Mr. Hargoos, “ if I should ever stand in need of two hundred dollars, I will certainly call upon you.”

Foreigners ridicule the indiscriminate use which we make of the term gentleman, and its application to stage drivers and persons in similar stations in life. May it never be more abused than by its application to one capable of thus feeling and acting ! It wTould be unjust to the other American drivers on the same line not to say that I do not doubt that every one of them would have done the same thing ; I do not believe that any one of them gave less than five hundred dollars and some of them twice that sum to the Texan prisoners during their confinement in Mexico.

The stage leaves Vera Cruz at eleven o’clock at night, and arrives the next evening about three o’clock at Jalapa. For the first few miles from Vera Cruz the road passes along a sandy sea-beach, and then commences the ascent of the mountain which is continued almost without interrup-

RECOLLECTIONS OF MEXICO.

[chap. II.

tion to Jalapa, and thence to Perote. The distance from Vera Cruz to Jalapa, as the road runs, is about seventy miles. In a direct line, it is probably not much more than one third of that distance. The road, considering the country through which it passes, is a very good one. It was constructed by the vice-roval government. The Puente Nacional (National Bridge), formerly called Puente del Rey (the King’s Bridge), is a very handsome structure of stone. It would be so regarded anywhere, but it is all the more striking from the rareness of such works in Mexico, and it is the solitary object which relieves the universal appearance of wildness and desolation on the whole route from Vera Cruz to Jalapa.

The habitations (for houses they are not) which are seen on the road side, at distances of fifteen and twenty miles from each other, resemble rather chicken coops than the abodes of human beings. They are constructed of canes about ten feet long, the large end resting on the ground, standing upright and wickered together in one or two places, and covered with the leaves of the palm tree. In the villages the houses are generally small filthy hovels of ten or twelve feet square, built of unburnt bricks, with a small enclosure, in which the chili (red pepper), and a small patch of Indian corn for tortillas is cultivated. A Mexican village very closely resembles an American Indian village — with the difference that the Mexican hovels are built of brick instead of being log cabins. The same idleness, filth, and squalid poverty are apparent.

The road for its entire extent from Vera Cruz to Jalapa, passes through the lands of General Santa Anna — which extend an immense distance on both sides of it ; much of this land is of good quality, and would produce cotton and sugar most profitably. Very little of it is in cultivation, with the

CHAP. II.]

JALAPA.

trifling exception of the chili and corn patches. General Santa Anna owns immense herds of cattle, some forty or fifty thousand head, which graze upon it. He also permits others to graze their cattle upon his lands for a rent which they pay him ; I believe, forty dollars per annum for a hundred head.

I do not know that I have ever seen a more beautiful spot than the city of Jalapa. When the atmosphere is clear you may see the shipping in the harbor of Vera Cruz with an ordinary spy-glass, and the white caps of the waves with the naked eye. The elevation of Jalapa above the sea is a little more than four thousand feet. It is situated on a shelf of the mountain ; the summit of which at Perote, a distance in a direct line of about twenty miles, is still four thousand five hundred feet higher than Jalapa. The whole horizon, except in the direction of Vera Cruz, is bounded by mountains ; amongst them Orizaba, which is distant from Jalapa about twenty-five miles. But from the remarkable clearness of the atmosphere, and the sun shining upon the snow with which it is always covered, it does not seem to be five miles. All the tropical fruits grow there, and are cultivated with great care and taste. Jt is not exaggeration to say that it is impossible for one who has not been on the table-lands of Mexico to conceive of a climate so elysian. There is not a day and scarcely an hour in the year when one could say, I wish it were a little warmer or a little cooler. It is never warm enough to pull off your coat, and rarely cold enough to button it.