Practical American cookery and domestic economy

Front matter

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Contents

[A complete General Index to the Eecipes embraced in each of the following Chapters, will be found at the end of this Vo'ume.]

COOKERY.

chapter. page.

Introduction

The present collection of Recipes Bits been selected and arranged with much care and a well-directed attention : they are the results of experience, and will be found, on inspection, to contain nearly, if not all, that can be esteemed essential for the production alike of a simply or a most elaborately furnished table.

' The necessity as well as the propriety of well regulated domestic arrangements, in the household of all classes and conditions, cannot be questioned ; every income has its limit, and the mistress of the house should see that her domestic expenses do not exceed that of her husband.

The young housekeeper should be acquainted with the extent of her husband's resources, and resolve with firmness to regulate her household with such prudence and economy as not to exceed them.

However unromantic it may be, it is a certain fact, that the happiness of life is not a little dependent upon the stomach ; so the professors of medicine teach us. As all our ailments, save fractured limbs and wounds from instruments, proceed from a disordered stomach, so very much of our domestic comfort proceeds from the arrangement and regularity of the daily meal. This is a point strongly to be considered.

VI INTRODUCTION'.

The appetite is dependent upon the health, the health upon the proper and regular supply of food, which should be as much varied as possible. Nothing so soon palls the appetite as sameness of diet, nor so immediately injures the health; for, by being palled, the appetite declines and the body suifers. Without health, there is little comfort ; without comfort, no real happiness. Thus, eating and drinking, under a proper control, should be our first consideration ; and, being one of the essentials requisite for health and happiness, so it becomes the young housekeeper to look to the appointments of her kitchen.

A kitchen should always be well furnished ; there is no necessity that it should be profusely so ; but there should be a sufficiency of everything which can aid in producing the dishes preparing, with the success which is so essential to the gratification of the palate.

Cleanliness is a most essential qualification in the art of cooking, not only with regard to the person, but the utensils, and should be maintained in the kitchen at any personal sacrifice.

In consulting this work, the cook will gain much advantage by a careful examination of the introdncductory remarks to each chapter, as many useful hints are there given relative to the department of cookery under consideration.

In selecting and arranging the various miscellaneous recipes under the head of Domestic Economy, a constant regard has been had to the real wants of the family. It comprises valuable recipes for the household.

INTRODUCTION". Vll

IMPORTANT HINTS TO COOKS.

Keep your meat in a dry, cool place, your fish on ice, and your vegetables on a stone floor free from air.

Cut your soap when it comes in, and let it dry slowly.

Keep your sweet herbs in paper bags, each bag containing only one description of herb. They should be dried in the wind, and not in the sun ; and when ordered in a recipe should be cautiously used, as a preponderance in any seasoning spoils it.

When oranges or lemons are used for juice, chop down the peel, put them in small pots, and tie them down for use.

Apples should be kept on dry straw, in a dry place ; and pears hung up by the stalk.

Batter, for fish, meat, fritters, &c. — Prepare it with fine flour, salt, milk, and eggs, beaten up. Fry in hog's lard or sweet butter.

Carrots, if young, need only be wiped when boiled — if old, they must be scraped before boiling. Slice them into a dish, and pour over them melted butter.

Cauliflowers. — Cut off the stalks, but leave a little of the green on ; boil in spring water with a little salt in it : they must not boil too fast.

Celery. — Yery little is sufficient for soups, as the flavor is very predominating. It should be thoroughly washed and curled when sent to table.

Game may often be made fit for eating when it seems spoiled, by cleaning and washing it with vinegar and water. Birds that are not likely to keep, should be drawn, cropped, and picked, then wash in two or three waters, and rub them with salt ; have

Vlll DfTRODUCTieH.

in readiness a large saucepan of boiling water, and plunge them into it one by one, drawing them up and down by the legs, so that the water may pass

through them. Let them stay for five or six minutes, then hang them up in a cold place ; when they are completely drained, salt and pepper well the iusides, and thoroughly wash them before roasting.

Gravies. — The skirts of beef and the kidney will make quite as good gravy as any other meat, if prepared in the same manner.

Lard should be carefully melted in a jar, put in a kettle of water and boiled, and run into bladders that have been strictly cleaned ; the bladders should not be too large, as the lard will become rank if the air gets to it.

Sago should soak for an hour, previous to using, to take off the earthy taste.

Copper vessels, when the tinning is worn off, must never be used, or the poisoning of those who partake of whatever may have been cooked in them, is inevitable. They should be sent to be re-tinned as soon as they require it.

A WORD FOR THE DIXXER TABLE.

As host. — The company seated, and a blessing invoked ; dispatch soup to each, without inquiring whether you shall help them or not. Help the person nearest you on the right first ; then on your left, and so on. Serve fish in the same way. Never offer fish or soup a second time.

The principal dish of meat you will carve yourself.

INTRODUCTION. IX

Supply the plates, and hand them to the servants, who will offer them to such of the company as are unprovided. In helping, supply each plate with a portion of the choice parts, as the kidney in a quarter of lamb, or sweet-bread in veal. In poultry, or other meats, some parts of which are preferred to others, according to the taste of individuals, before helping, ask each one if he has any preference. If the reply is in the negative, do not repeat the question, nor insist that he must have a preference. Have the servant offer gravy to each guest, or you may yourself ask each if he will take gravy, and help to it with the meat.

See that your guests are helped to, or have an opportunity of declining, each of the principal dishes. After a particular dish has once been declined by any one, do not urge him to partake. Vegetables the servant should help to ; but it will depend on your attention and care to see that each guest is properly supplied. Especially see that the servant is attentive and prompt in supplying bread, water, salt, and the et ceteras of the table to each guest.

As Guest. — Being seated, when soup is offered, take it. It is. better to do this, even if you do not really wish any ; but fish you may decline. Do not ask for either a second time.

If asked whether you have a preference for any dish, or any particular part of a dish, answer promptly, definitely, and distinctly.

If a gentleman, you will be expected to carve and help to game or any side dish which may be nearest A*

INTRODUCTION.

you ; unless where the dishes are removed to be carved by a servant at a side table.

Your duty to your entertainer requires that you should be as agreeable as possible, taking no notice of any unfortunate mistake or accident, engaging in conversation with your next or opposite neighbor, and feeling and acting at your ease.

The Servant should serve everything at the left hand of the guest.

Chapter I. On Carving

Carving presents no difficulties; it requires simply knowledge. All displays of exertion or violence are in very bad taste. A good knife of moderate size, sufficient length of handle, and very sharp, is requisite ; for a lady it should be light, and smaller than that used by gentlemen. Fowls are very easily carved, and in loins, breasts, fore-quarters, &c, the butcher should have strict injunctions to separate the joints well.

The dish upon which the article to be carved is placed should be conveniently near to the carver, so that he has full control ( >ver it.

PRACTICAL COOKERY.

In serving fish, some nicety and care must be exercised ; here lightness of hand and dexterity of management is necessary, and can only be acquired by practice. The flakes which in such fish as salmon and cod are large, should not be, broken in serving, for the beauty of the fish is then destroyed, and tinappetite for it injured. In addition to the skill in the use of the knife, there is also required another description of knowledge, and that is an acquaintance with the best parts of the joints, fowl or fish, beffig carved. Thus, in a haunch of venison, the fat, which is a favorite, must be served with each slice ; in the shoulder of mutton there are some delicate cuts in the under part. The breast and wings are the best parts of a fowl ; the trail of a woodcock on a toast is the choicest part of the bird. In fish, a part of the roe should accompany the piece offish served.

An Aitch-bone of

Beef. This is a simple

joint to carve, but the

slices from it must be

cut quite even, and of a

very moderate thick-

P ness. When the joint

is boiled, before cutting

Altcb-Bone- to serve, remove a slice

from the whole of the upper part, of sufficient thickness, say a

quarter of an inch, in order to arrive at the juicy part of the meat

at once. Carve from a to b ; let the slices be moderately thin

not too thin ; help tat with the lean in one piece, and give a little additional fat, which you will find below c ; the solid fat is at a, and must be cut in slices horizontally. The round of beef is carved in the same manner.

Piibs of Beef. There are two modes of carving this joint; the first, which is now becoming common, and is easy to an amateur carver, is to cut across the bone commencing in the

ON CARVING.

center, and serving fet from a, as marked in the engraving of the sirloin, or it should be carved in slices from a to b. Occasionally the bones are removed, and the meat formed into a fillet ; it should then be carved as a round of beef.

The Sirloin of

Beef. The under part should be first served, and carved as indicated in the engrravmtr, across the bone. In carving the upper part Sirloin of Beef. the same directions

should be followed as for the ribs, carving either side, from a to b.. __

Fillet of Veal. Cut

a slice off the whole of the

upper part in the same

way as from a round of

beef; this being, if well

roasted, of a nice brown,

should be helped in small

Fillet of Veal. pieces with the slices you

cut for each person. The stuffing is skewered in the flap, and

where the bone comes out there is some placed ; help this with

the meat with a piece of the fat.

Neck of Veal. fiEJWere you to at-

£i tempt to carve each

fo chop, and serve it,

vou would not only place a gigantic Neck of Veal. piece upon the plate

of the person you intended to help, but you would waste much

PRACHCAL COOKERY time ; and should the vertebras not have been jointed by the butcher, you would find yourself in the position of the ungraceful carver, being compelled to exercise a degree of strength which should never be suffered to appear ; very possibly, too, assisting gravy in a manner not contemplated by the person unfortunate enough to receive it. Cut diagonally from b to a, and help in slices of moderate thickness ; you can cut from c to d in order to separate the small bones ; divide and serve them, having first inquired if they are desired.

The Breast of Veal. Sepa- ^_ rate the ribs from the brisket, cut* a tinij from b to A : | these si nail bones, which are much Breast of Veal. the sweetest and

mostly chosen, you will cut as at ddd, and serve ; the long ribs are divided as at c c c, and having ascertained the preference of the person, help accordingly ; at good tables the scrag is not served, but is found, when properly cooked, a very good stew. Loin of Veal. This joint is sent to table served as a sirloin of beef. Having turned it over, cut out the kidney and the fat, return it to its proper position, and carve it as in the neck of veal, from b to a ; help with it a slice of kidney and fat. The kidney is usually placed upon a dry toast when removed from the joint.

Shoulder of Veal is sent to table with the under part placed uppermost. Help it as a shoulder of mutton, beginning at the knuckle end.

ON CARVING.

Calf's Head.

There is much more meat to be obtained from a calf's head by carving it one way than another. Carve

Half of Calf s Head. from A to B, Cut-

ting quite down to the bone. At the fleshy part of the neck end you will find the throat sweetbread, which you can help a slice of with the other part ; you will remove the eye with the point of the knife and divide it in half, helping those to it who profess a preference for it ; there are some tasty, gelatinous pieces around it which are palatable. Remove the jaw bone, and then you will meet with some fine flavored lean ; the palate, which is under the head, is by some thought a dainty, and should be proffered when carving.

Leg of Mutton.

The under or thickest part of the leg should be placed uppermost, and carved in slices moderately thin from b to c.

Many persons have a taste for the knuckle, Leg of Mutton. an(j jf preferred, it

should be helped. When cold, the back of the leg should be placed uppermost, and thus carved ; if the cramp bone is requested, and some persons regard it as a dainty, hold the shank with your left hand, and insert your knife at d, passing It round to e, and vou will remove it.

PRACTICAL COOKERY.

A Shoulder of Mutton. It should be served and eaten very hot. It is sent to table lying on the dish as shown in the annexed engraving. Commence carving from a to b, taking out moderately thin slices in the shape of a Shoulder of Mutton. a wedge ; some nice pie-

ces may then be helped from the blade bone, from c to b, cutting on both sides of the bone. Cut the fat from d, carving it in thin slices. Some of the most delicate parts, however, lie on the under part of the shoulder ; take off thin pieces horizontally from b to c, and from a; some tender slices are to be met with at d, but they must be cut through as indicated.

The shoulder of mutton is essentially a joint of tit-bits, and,, therefore, when carving it, the tastes of those at the table should be consulted. It is a very insipid joint when cold, and should, therefore, be hashed if sent to table a a Shoulder of Mutton. second time.

The Loin of Mutton, if small, should be carved in chops, beginning with the outer chop ; if large, carve slices the whole length. A neat way is, to run the knife along the chine bone and under the meat along the ribs, it may then be cut in slices, as shown in the engraving of the saddle of mutton below; by this process flit and lean are served together ; your knife should be very sharp, and it should be done cleverly.

ON CARVING.

Neck of Mutton, if the scrag and chine bone are removed, is carved in the direction of the bones.

The Scrag of Mutton should be separated from the ribs of the neck, and when roasted, the bones helped with the meat.

Saddle of Mutton. The tail end is divided in the engraving, and the 5|gllli|g kidneys skewered under each division ; this is a matter of taste,

Saddle of Mutton. an(j jg not aJ_

ways done. Carve from a to b in thin slices ; help fat from c to d. You may help from the vertebras on both sides of the loin, and then carve cross-wise as marked in the engraving, which gives you both fat and lean ; help a slice of kidney to those who desire it.

Haunch of Mutton is carved as haunch of venison.

Fore Quarter of Lamb.

Place your fork near the knuckle and cut from a to c, to b, and

Fore Quarter of Lamb. On to D ; pass

your knife under, lifting with the fork at the same time. The juice of half a lemon which has been sprinkled with salt and pepper, is then squeezed under the shoulder, and a slice of fresh butter placed there, also ; the parts are reunited until the butter is melted, and the shoulder is then placed in a separate dish ; separate the neck from the ribs, from e to d, and then

PRACTICAL COOKERY.

help to the breast o, or the neck f, according to the palate of your guest.

Haunch of Venison. Have the dish placed before you so that the loin is nearest to you, and the knuckle

Hannch of Venison. farthest | then Cut

from a to b, sufficiently near the knuckle to prevent the escape of any gravy ; then make your first cut from c to a, with a slanting cut, and let each succeeding slice be sloping, so that all the gravy may be retained in the hollow thus formed; the fat will be found at the left side, and must be served with the meat.

Neck of Venison, should be carved across the ribs, as in the neck of veal, or lengthwise, from one end of the neck to the other.

Pork. The leg when sent to table should be placed with the back uppermost, and the crackling be removed ; if sufficiently baked, this may be done with ease; the meat should be served in thin slices, cut across the leg, the crackling being served with it, or not, according to taste ; the loins are cut into the pieces as scored by the butcher.

Ham. It is served as placed in the engraving, and should come to table ornamented.

Carve from a to b, cutting thin slices.

Ham.

ON CARVING.

Boiled Tongue. Carve across the tongue in thin slices.

Roast Pig. The cook

should send a roast pig to

table as displayed here,

garnished with head and

ears ; carve the joints in

direction shown by the

lines in the diagram, then

Boast Pig. divide the ribs; serve with

plenty of sauce ; should one of the joints be too much, it may

be separated : bread sauce and stuffing should accompany

it. An ear and the jaw are favorite parts with many people.

Babbit. Cut slices from b to a of moderate thickness. When the rabbit is young, you can, after removing the shoulders and legs, cut across the back, and divide it into several pieces ; this is not practicable with a full grown rabbit, unless it is boned. The shoulders and legs are easily removed by placing the knife between them, and turning them back, the joint will disclose itself, and can then be separated. The head should not be removed until the last ; divide it from the neck, remove the lower jaw, then cut through the division which appears from the nose to the top of the skull and lay it open. The stuffing should be given with whatever portion may be helped.

Roast Hare is carved in the same manner.

Babbit

PRACTICAL COOKERY.

Boiled Rabbit. Remove the legs and shoulders ; they very easily separate. Divide the back into two parts by holding the Boiled Rabbit fork firmly in the back,

and passing the knife underneath near the middle, and bending it back. The most tender part is on the loins ; the meat there is of a very delicate flavor ; liver should be helped with it.

Roast Chickens and Turkey. These, especially the latter, require skillful carving, and both observation and practice are necessary to perform the operation satisfacto- Remove the wings, cutting from d to b, and separating the joints with the edge of your knife. Make a short cut in a downward direction at right angles with the drumsticks, then cut from a between the legs and side, toward the wings; press back the legs with the blade of the knife, and the joint will disclose itself; if young it will part, but at best, if judiciously managed, will require but a nick where the joints unite. Divide the thighs from the drumsticks, and here an instrument termed a disjoin ter, will be found a rviceable. Then carve slices lengthwise, from each side of the breast. Next remove the merrythought and neck-bones by inserting the knife and piercing it under the bones, raising it, when they will readily separate from the breast. Divide the breast from the body by cutting backwards on each side through the small ribs down to the vent. Take off the side bones, turn the back uppermost, put your knife into about the

Roast FowL

rily to yourself- and others.

ON CARVING.

center between the neck and rump, raise the lower part firmly, yet gently, and it will easily separate.

In separating the thigh from the drumstick, you must insert the knife exactly at the joint as we have indicated in the engraving ; this, however, will be found to require practice, for the joint must be accurately hit, or else much difficulty will be experienced in getting the parts asunder.

Boiled Fowls are carved in the same way as roast.

Boiled Fowl (breast) Boiled Fowl (back.)

Buoiled Chickens are carved by simply dividing them into quarters ; dividing them first lengthwise through the breast, and then across between the wing and leg.

Goose Roast.

Geese. Follow with your knife the lines marked in the engraving, a to b, and cut slices, then remove the wing, and if . the party be large, the legs must also be removed, and here the disjointer will again prove serviceable. The stuffing will be obtained by making an insertion ate.

PRACTICAL COOKERY.

Pheasant. Clear the leg by inserting the edge of the knife between it and the body ; then take off the wings, b to a, but do not remove much of the breast with them ; you are thus enabled to obtain some nice slices ; the pheasant is then carved as a fowl. The breast is first in estimation, then the wings, and after these the merry-thought ; lovers of game prefer a leg.

A Pheasant.

Guinea Fowl are carved in the same manner.

Partridge. Separate the legs, and then divide the bird into three parts, leaving each leg and wing together. The breast is then divided from the back, and helped whole, the latter being assisted with any of the other parts. W hen the party consists entirely of gentlemen, the bird is divided into two by cutting right through from the vent to the neck.

Quails, Reed-Birds, and all small birds, are served whole. Grouse and Plover are carved as partridges. Snipe and Woodcock are divided into two parts ; the trail being served on a toast.

Wild Duck and Widgeon. The breast of these fowls being the best portion, is carved in slices, which, being removed, a glass of old port made hot is poured in; the half of a lemon seasoned with cayenne and salt, should then be squeezed in the slices, relaid in their places, and then served, the joints being removed the same as in other fowl.

Partridge.

ON CARVING.

Pigeon. Like woodcock, these birds are cut in half, through the breast and back, and helped.

Pigeon (breast.)

Pigeon (back.)

FISH.

and Fork.

Fish should never be carved with steel ; helping requires more care than knowledge ; the principal caution is to avoid breaking

the flakes. In carving a piece

A of salmon, as here engraved, cut thin slices, as from a to b, and help with it pieces of the belly, in the direction marked from d to c ; the best flavored is the up-

Middle cut of Salmon. per or thlclc part. The

white fish and trout of our northern lakes are carved in the same way. Also sheephead, when large ; when small, they are cut right through.

PRACTICAL COOKERY.

Turbot. Cut flat pieces as marked in the engraving, without moving the bone ; the fin, which is esteemed a delicacy, is always served with it.

Turbot.

All fiat fish are carved in the same manner: flounders are cut either in halves, or, if very large, are divided into three, cutting right through.

Cod's Head and Shoulders. Carry the knife from a to b, and then along the line, to c ; help slices, accompanied by some of the sound, which is to be found lining the back, and which you may obtain by passing the knife under the back-bone at c ; serve also a piece of cod's Head. liver. Many choice

parts lie in this dish, and by inquiry you will soon ascertain the parts preferred. The jaw-bone, from its gelatinous nature, is considered by some a dainty, and the head generally, including eyes and palate, is a favorite with many.

Haddock. It is dressed whole, unless unusually large. When sent to table it is split its whole length, and served one-half the head to the tail of the other part; it is carved across.

ON CARVING.

Mackerel should always be sent to table head to tail. First

cut off the head, then divide the meat from the bone by cutting down the back lengthwise; the upper part is the best. All small fish, such as herrings, perch, smelts, mullets, &c, are served whole.

A dish of Mackerel.

BEEF.

A Bullock marked as cut in the joints by the Butcher.

A Sirloin.

B Rump.

C Aitchbone.

D Buttock.

E Mouse Buttock.

F Veiny piece.

G Thick Flank.

H Thin Flank.

I Leg.

K Fore Ribs, containing five ribs.

L Middle Rib, containing four ribs.

M Chuck Rib, containing three ribs.

N Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton piece.

O Brisket.

P Clod.

Q Neck, or Sticking piece.

R Shin.

S Cheek.

The baron of beef is formed of the pieces marked a, b, united on both sides.

B

PRACTICAL COOKERY.

VEAL.

The calf is divided into joints by the butcher, upon a system which unites the methods employed for cutting up both beef and mutton.

A The Loin (best end.) B The Loin (chump end.) C The Fillet.

D The Hind Knuckle.

E The Fore Knuckle.

F Xeck (best end.) G Neck (scrag.) H Blade Bone.

I Breast (best end.) K Breast (Brisket.)

PORK.

The Pig is thus divided : A The Fore Loin. C The Belly, or Spring.

B The Hind Loin. D The Hand.

E The Leg.

The spare rib is under the shoulder, which, when removed in a porker, leaves part of the neck without a skin upon it, forming the spare rib. The head is much liked by many, and appears at table dressed in various ways.

OX CARVING.

MUTTON.

The sheep is thus apportioned by butchers :

A The Leg. E Neck (scrag end.)

B Loin (the best end.) F Shoulder.

C Loin (chump end.) G Breast.

D Neck (best end.)

VENISON.

A Haunch. B Neck. C SEoulder. D Breast.

Buck and Doe Venison are cut up in similar fashion.

TO CHOOSE MEATS.

Venison. The choice of venison should be regulated by the appearance of the fat, which, when the venison is young, looks bright, thick, clear, and close. It first changes toward the haunches. To ascertain whether it is sweet, run a knife into that part ; if tainted, it will have a rank smell.

Beef. True, well-fed beef will exhibit an open grain of deepcoral-red, and the flit will appear of a healthy, oily smoothness, rather inclining to white than yellow. The suet firm and white. Yellow fat is a test of meat of an inferior quality. Heifer beef is but little inferior to ox beef; the lean is of a closer grain, the red paler, and the fat whiter.

Veal. When you observe the kidney well surrounded with fat, you maybe sure the meat is of a good quality. The whitest is not the best veal. There is a vein in the shoulder very perceptible, and its color indicates the freshness of the meat ; if a bright red or blue, it is recently killed ; if any green or yellow spots are visible, it is stale.