Pitcairn, the island, the people, and the pastor : with a short account of the mutiny of the Bounty

Front matter

GEORGE GREENWOOD

Bookseller 199 a Castlereagh Street

SYDNEY

Chapter I

THE BOUNTY — BREAD-FRUIT— OTAHEITE — FAREWELL TO OTAHEITE — THE MUTINY IN THE SHIP — MURDER OF JOHN NORTON AT TOFOA— SUFFERINGS AND ESCAPES

OF BLIGH AND HIS COMPANY FEEJEE ISLANDS

TIMOR BATAVIA— ARRIVAL OF BLIGH AND ELEVEN OF

HIS CHEW IN ENGLAND — CAPTAIN, AFTERWARDS VICE- ADMIRAL, BLIGH 15

Chapter II

LEGAL PROCEEDINGS IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE MUTINY — CHURCHILL AND THOMPSON — WRECK OF THE PANDORA — .PETER HEYWOOD AND HIS FAMILY — LETTERS FROM NESSY HEYWOOD AND OTHERS — TRIAL OF THE MUTINEERS — THE KING'S PARDON — HONOURABLE CAREER OF CAPTAIN HEY- WOOD— HIS DEATH — LINES BY ONE OF HIS CREW ... 50

VI CONTENTS.

Chapter III

CHRISTIAN AND HIS PAKTY — PITCAIBN's ISLAND — FOLGEB'S ACCOUNT — LANDING' OF NINE MUTINEERS AND OTHERS AT PITCAIRN — DREADFUL DEATHS OF CHRISTIAN AND OTHERS — INTOLERABLE STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITCAIRN — INTEMPERANCE — REPENTANCE AND BEFOBMATION OF ADAMS — HIS SERVICES IN THE CAUSE OF RELIGION AND MORALITY IN THE ISLAND 90

Chapter IV

DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PITCAIBN IN 1814, AND SUBSEQUENT YEARS — ACCOUNT GIVEN BY SIR THOMAS STAINES AND CAPTAIN BEECHEY — EMIGRATION TO OTA- HEITE IN 1831 — QUEEN POMARE — HER LETTER TO QUEEN VICTORIA — THE FRENCH AT OTAHEITE .... 113

Chapter V

RETURN ' OF THE PITCAIRN EMIGRANTS TO THEIR ISLAND IN 1833 — PRESENT POPULATION OF PITCAIRN — LOYALTY OF THE ISLANDERS — THEIR RULES AND CUSTOMS — THE ISLANDERS' DAY AT PITCAIRN — RECEPTION OF VESSELS TOUCHING AT THE ISLAND— HOSPITALITY TO STRANGERS 138

Chapter VI

MR. NOBBS — SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS LIFE — HIS ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN — MR. JOSHUA HILL — MR. HILL'S LETTER — TESTIMONIES TO THE CHARACTER AND SERVICES OF MR. NOBBS — PROGRESS OF RELIGION IN THE ISLAND — REUBEN NOBBS — TESTIMONIES FROM THE REV. WM. ARMSTRONG AND CAPTAIN WORTH — LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS — STATE OF THE SCHOOL . . 167

CONTENTS. Vll

Chapter VII

INVITATION TO ADMIRAL MORESBY — VISIT OF AN ENGLISH ADMIRAL TO THE ISLAND — HIS LETTERS, AND THOSE OF HIS SECRETARY AND CHAPLAIN — ARRIVAL AT VALPA- RAISO— MR. NOBBS IN LONDON — HIS ORDINATION AS DEACON AND PRIEST — HIS INTERVIEW WITH THE QUEEN AND PRINCE ALBERT — HIS RETURN, HOMEWARD BY NAVY BAY AND THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA TO PITCAIRN — INTELLIGENCE FROM PITCAIRN — THE FIRST COMMUNION ON THE ISLAND 203

Chapter VIII

SOME ACCOUNT OF THE LAWS OF PITCAIRN — THE ISLAND REGISTER — LIST OF VESSELS MENTIONED IN THIS WORK WHICH HAVE TOUCHED AT THE ISLAND — MELANCHOLY ACCIDENT ON THE ISLAND 241

Chapter IX

SPECIMENS OF SERMONS PREACHED BY MR. NOBBS ON THE ISLAND — THE HARP OF PITCAIRN . , . 276

ILLUSTRATIONS.

BOUNTY BAT, PITCAIRN Frontispiece

THE BREAD-FRUIT To face p. 16

LIEUT. BLIGH'S GOUED, CUP, &c 35

" LOOK-OUT EIDGE," AND CHRISTIAN'S HOUSE . . 94

COBAL ISLAND 104

PORTRAIT OF JOHN ADAMS 108

JOHM ADAMS'S HOUSE 122

CHURCH AND SCHOOL HOUSE 142

FISHING BY TORCHLIGHT 154

PORTRAIT OF THE REV. G. H. NOBBS 167

CHART OF PORTION OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC . • 234 JOHN ADAMS'S GRAVE . . 248

PREFACE

TO THE SECOND EDITION.

MUCH has been written about Pitcaim's Island ; but the subject is a very fruitful one ; and recent events have added greatly to the interest felt in the condition of the islanders. The arrival of their Pastor- in England ; his admission soon afterwards into holy orders ; his desire to return, as speedily as possible, to the place of his choice ; and, lastly, his interview with the Queen, and Prince Albert, to which he was graciously admitted two days previous to his quitting our shores ; these things have brought to our minds the circumstances of Pitcairn, and its inhabitants, in a very striking manner.

The following letter addressed to the author of this work by Rear-Admiral Moresby, Commander-in-chief of her Majesty's naval

B

X PEEFACE.

forces in the Southern Pacific, will explain the circumstances of Mr. Nobbs 's visit to England : —

" Valparaiso, August, 1852.

" DEAR SIR, — This will be conveyed to you by Mr. Nobbs, the pastor of Pitcairn's Island. It was not until after our departure from thence, that I found he had received a letter from you, dated the 29th of November, 1850, which, I confess, has relieved me of much anxiety on the responsibility I have taken upon myself of sending Mr. Nobbs to England.

" I can most conscientiously assure you, that the state of society at Pitcairn has not been too highly described. The Bible and Prayer Book -of 'the Bounty,' as handed to Mr. Nobbs from John Adams, have been, and continue to be, the objects of their study, and have enabled them to withstand the innovations, that too fervid imaginations, in America and elsewhere, have thought, by their correspondence, it was their calling to effect.

" The affectionate attachment of the islanders to Mr. Nobbs (who, in the triple capacity of pastor, surgeon, and teacher, is as neces-

PEEFACE. xi

sary to them as their food,) created some little difficulty in his leaving; but it was overcome by the arrangement made for leaving with them our chaplain, Mr. Holman, and by my assurance that I would return their pastor to them with as little delay as possible. I hope I am not wrong in supposing that if Mr. Nobbs is found worthy of being ordained, only a short time will be required to prepare.

" I think I did not mention to the Bishop of London the way in which Mr. Nobbs reached Pitcairn. It disproves the malignant stories which have been circulated. And the success of twenty-four years' labour is an abundant proof that, under the blessing of God, he has educated in the principles of our Church, as one united family, a community whose simple and virtuous lives are so preeminent.

" In 1826, he left England for the purpose of going to Pitcairn. For nearly two years, by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, India, and Australia, he sought a passage. Finally, at Callao, in Peru, he met the owner of a launch, who, on the condition of Mr. Nobbs's

Xll PREFACE.

fitting her out, agreed to accompany him to Pitcairn. Mr. Nobbs fitted her himself, and expended what little money he possessed. The owner was in ill health: nevertheless these two left Callao by themselves, on a voyage of 3,500 miles, which they accomplished in forty-two days. The owner died soon after their arrival. The launch was hauled on shore, and her materials used to build a house for Mr. Nobbs.

" I was four days on shore at Pitcairn, in constant discourse with the islanders. I am convinced that the time and the opportunity have arrived for giving them a minister of our Church ; and that Mr. Nobbs is the person they wish, and the person at present best adapted for them.

" Believe me, truly yours,

" FAIRFAX MORESBY,

" BEAK ADMIRAL."

REV. T. BOYLES MURRAY, M.A.

Amidst all the attentions which Mr. Nobbs received during his short sojourn in England, in the latter part of 1852, and which he truly appreciated, the thought of his flock at Pitcairn was evidently uppermost

PREFACE. Xlll

in his mind. Those who felt an interest in him, having heard of the virtuous habits and happy lives of the people, were less surprised at their pastor's wish to rejoin them, as soon as his errand was accomplished, that he might be again useful, more useful than before, and live and die among them. His connexion with the island is, however, of the nearest kind. His wife is living there, who is a grandaughter of Fletcher Christian ; and they have eleven children.

The mention of Fletcher Christian reminds us of the origin of the present settlement at Pitcaim's Island. Without further anticipating, therefore, the eventful history which is connected with the place, and which proves that real life may be as romantic as fiction, the author will proceed to give an account of the island, and of the troublous times which preceded the pure and peaceful condition of this singular community.

Justly does it raise our wonder and gratitude to contemplate so exemplary a race, sprung from so guilty a stock. We hope and pray, that God's grace and blessing may remain upon this people ; that no evil

XIV PEEFACE.

influence may come nigh to hurt them ; and that they may still perceive and know religion to be the basis of their happiness. Then, happy Pitcairn, sea-girt isle ! may you long continue a living model of all that is lovely, and of good report ; and may nations not disdain to follow your example !

Lest it should be supposed by any reader, that the accounts of the present condition of the island are too delightful to be real, the author has thought it right to bring forward an array of testimony, in the shape of letters from living witnesses of unimpeachable credit, who have themselves visited the spot, and become personally acquainted with the people and the pastor.

The author feels that his cordial thanks are due to the many friends, who have favoured him with the loan of original manuscripts and drawings. It also gives him much satisfaction to acknowledge the courteous manner in which the authorities at the Admiralty complied with his request for particulars relating to the subject of his work.

P I T C A I E N,

Chapter I

THE BOUNTY — BREAD-FRUIT — OTAHEITE — FAREWELL TO OTAHEITE — THE MUTINY IN THE SHIP — MURDER OF JOHN NORTON AT TOFOA — SUFFERINGS AND ESCAPES OF BLIGH AND HIS COMPANY — FEEJEE ISLANDS — TIMOR — BATAVIA — ARRIVAL OF BLIGH AND ELEVEN OF HIS CREW IN ENGLAND — CAPTAIN, AFTERWARDS VICE-ADMIRAL, BLIGH.

IN the year 1787 his Majesty's armed ship, The, Bounty, was fitted out by the English government, the command being given to Lieutenant Bligh, to proceed to the South Sea islands for plants of the bread-fruit-tree, which afforded to the inhabitants of those islands, and of Otaheite especially, the greater portion of their food. This step was taken in consequence of representations made to King George the Third, by merchants and planters interested in his Majesty's West Indian possessions.

Lieutenant William Bligh, who was then about thirty-three years of age, had been

16 BREAD-FRUIT.

sailing-master under Captain Cook, having been for four years with that great navigator in the Resolution. He was appointed in August, 1787, both commander and purser of the Bounty, which was stored and victualled for eighteen months. Besides this provision, he had supplies of portable soup, essence of meat, sour krout, and dried malt ; to which were added some articles of iron and steel, trinkets, beads, and looking-glasses, for traffic with the natives. The plants, the best he could obtain, he was to convey to the West Indies, in order to attempt their growth for the support of the slave population ; it having been the opinion of Sir Joseph Banks, who had visited Otaheite with Captain Cook in 1769, that the bread-fruit-tree might be successfully cultivated in those colonies.

The bread-fruit grows on a tree, which is about the size of a common oak, and, towards the top, divides into large and spreading branches. The leaves are of a very deep green. The fruit springs from twigs to the size of a penny loaf. It has a thick rind ; and before becoming ripe, it is gathered, and baked in an oven, when the inner part is like

THE BR2A.D-1RU1T.

DEPARTURE OF THE BOUNTY. 17

the crumb of wheaten bread, and found to be very nutritive. Captain Wm. Dampier,* who sailed round the world in the year 1688, described the bread-fruit as having " neither seed nor stone in the inside ; but all is of pure substance like bread. It must be eaten new; for if it is kept above twenty-four hours, it grows harsh and choaky ; but it is very pleasant before it is too stale. This fruit lasts in season eight months in the year, during which the natives of Guam eat no other sort of food of bread kind. I did never," says he, " see of this fruit anywhere but here. The natives told us that there is plenty of this fruit growing on the rest of the L'adrone Islands ; and I did never hear of it anywhere else."

The Bounty of nearly 215 tons burden, left Spithead on the 23d of December, 1787, carrying forty-six persons, including the commander, and a botanist, and gardener. They started with a fresh breeze, easterly,

* An old English navigator, born in 1652, whose name is associated with that of the celebrated Alexander Selkirk, who sailed iii company with him. Selkirk's wonderful adventures suggested to De Foe the idea of his inimitable Robinson Crusoe.

18 OTAHEITE.

which moderated on the 25th, so that they were able to keep their Christmas with cheerfulness ; but it increased to such a heavy gale by the 27th, that the vessel suffered damage ; a sea which she shipped having broken some of the planks of the boats, and an azimuth compass. It also wetted and injured a few bags of bread in the cabin, which, when the weather improved, were got up, and dried. The voyage was attended with many circumstances of difficulty and danger. The few hours of respite from the hard westerly winds that blew, were, according to a fine expression in Lord Anson's voyage, like the elements drawing breath, to return upon them with redoubled violence. Having tried in vain, in a tempestuous ocean, to go by Cape Horn, they at last made a passage round the Cape of Good Hope; and having visited Van Diemen's Land, and New Zealand, the ship arrived at Otaheite, anchoring in Matavai Bay, at 10 in the forenoon of the 26th of October, 1788.

The voyagers were received with kindness by the natives, who asked after Captain Cook, Sir Joseph Banks, and others who had

OTAHEITE. 19

visited them some years before. But their first inquiries of the voyagers were, if they were Tyos, which signifies, friends ; and whether they came from Pretanie, (Britain.) Having become satisfied on these two important points, they instantly crowded the deck in such numbers, that Bligh could scarcely find his own people. He had prepared and written down certain rules to be observed by all his men for facilitating a trade for provisions, and establishing a good understanding with the natives. Immediately on anchoring, these orders were stuck up on the mizen-mast. It was against the rules, to purchase curiosities, or provisions, except by application to a person duly appointed as a purveyor. With respect to curiosities, it appears that none struck the seamen so forcibly as a roasted pig, and some bread-fruit ; and these came in abundance.

Having passed about six pleasant months in the island, and collected plants, the party took leave of their friends at Otaheite, and, after touching at Annamooka for water &c., put to sea again April 27, 1789. Bligh, in his " Voyage to the South Seas," published a

20 FAREWELL TO OTAHEITE.

plan and section of the Bounty, showing the manner of fitting and stowing the pots for receiving the bread-fruit plants. Of these plants he had 1,015.

It is probable that Bligh would have been spared much trouble and misery had he quitted Otaheite sooner; but he had been prevailed upon by the kindness of the chiefs to delay his departure ; and during the interchange of friendly civilities, and hospitable receptions, both on board the Bounty, and on shore, three of the men belonging to the ship, of whom more will be said presently, deserted, taking with them the small cutter, a chest of fire-arms and ammunition. They were soon captured by Bligh, with the help of some of the natives at a neighbouring island, Tettaha. These three deserters wrote a letter of humble acknowledgment to their captain, for his clemency in not bringing them to trial, and promised good conduct in future : but they were very soon afterwards mutineers. Their letter was dated January 26th, 1789, three months before Bligh and his companions, with heavy hearts, bade farewell to charming Otaheite.

The reader will observe that the word, Otaheite, is here used, as spelt by Captain Cook. It is now often printed, Tahiti. In pronouncing it, the natives are accustomed first to draw in their breath : hence the sound as of a vowel at the beginning of the word.

On the arrival of the Bounty off Tofoa, one of the Friendly Islands, on the 28th of April, 1 789, a dreadful mutiny broke out among some of the ship's officers and men, with Fletcher Christian, the master's mate, at their head. He was of a respectable family in the north of England, a young man of talent in his profession, twenty-four years of age, and of a quick and daring spirit.

It is very difficult, at this distance of time, to judge of the real motive or motives which actuated these men in their evil design. Indeed, at the period of the mutiny, the object which the leaders had in view could only be conjectured. Bligh gave it as his opinion, that they had flattered themselves with the hope of returning to Otaheite, and again leading the agreeable kind of life which they had passed in that island.

It was alleged on the other hand, that, during the voyage, there had been frequent misunderstandings between the commander and Fletcher Christian ; and that offence had been given by the former to Christian, and to some of the men, on the day before the mutiny. Much stress has been laid on each of these circumstances, as if one *or the other had been the cause of the outrage.

On this part of the subject it is unnecessary to dwell ; though it must not be wholly passed over. To assume, without proof, that the act of the mutineers was owing to tyranny on the part of Bligh, is surely not to make their case better ; because, in this point of view, the deed must be looked upon as one, not only of sinful revenge against him, but of cruelty to their unoffending messmates. For what prospect was there to men exposed in such a manner to the horrors of the deep, but death, either by drowning or starvation ?

It was natural for those who had been accomplices in the mutiny to excuse themselves as far as possible ; but every thoughtful reader will weigh and examine the value of statements coming from such quarters.

Bligh was a thoroughbred sailor of a former school. Notwithstanding the occasional ebullitions of anger and excitement, from the prevalence of which every one may well strive to keep his own heart with all diligence, still it was his study to make his men, not only efficient, but comfortable and happy.- Attending strictly to his own duty, he deemed it his part to see that they should attend to theirs : and it will be allowed, that he had some men under his command intractable enough to try severely a temper less hasty than his. On the 9th of March, he had found it necessary, on a complaint of the master, to punish one of the seamen for insolence, and mutinous behaviour.

With regard to Christian, he says, " This was the third voyage he had made with me ; and as I found it necessary to keep my ship's company at three watches, I had given him an order to take charge of the third, his abilities being thoroughly equal to the task."

Speaking of the division into three watches, he adds, "I have always considered this a desirable regulation, when circumstances will admit of it, on many accounts ; and am persuaded that unbroken rest not only contributes much to the health of the ship's company, but enables them more readily to exert themselves in cases of sudden emergency." *

On the evening before the mutiny, Bligh invited Christian to supper in his cabin ; an invitation which was declined. Christian had the watch for two hours. That night, the 27th of April, 1789, was remarked for its beauty, even in the tropical regions, all nature being calm and lovely around ; but it was the eve of a day of consternation and terror.

Full of desperate intentions, Christian, at the next morning's watch, which was from 4 to 8, began to sound Matthew Quintal, and some others, and soon gained over the greater part of the men. Having rapidly arranged their plans, they got at the arms, under pretence of requiring a gun to shoot a shark, which was astern of the ship. At the dawn of day, they roughly awoke Bligh, who, starting up in amazement, on seeing men about him armed with cutlasses and pistols, called out loudly for assistance. On his

* Voyage to the South Sea, undertaken by command of hia Majesty, &c., published by Bligh, in 1790, page 21.

demanding what they meant, "Hold your tongue, sir, or you are dead this instant," was the answer which he received. Some of the mutineers, among whom Christian, Churchill, Mills, and Burkitt, were the most active, with oaths, and violence, tied his hands with cords, behind his back, not giving him time to dress ; and forcing him on to the deck in his shirt, kept him under a guard, behind the mizen-mast. The boatswain and others, having been compelled to hoist out the launch, Bligh and eighteen men were forced to go into her, and were quickly veered astern of the ship by a rope.

Besides Christian, and eight other mutineers, whose names will be mentioned in a future page, as afterwards settling at Pitcairn, the following remained in the Bounty: — Peter Heywood, midshipman; George Stewart, midshipman ; James Morrison, boatswain's mate ; Charles Churchill, master at arms ; Matthew Thompson, John Sumner, Richard Skinner, Thomas Burkitt, John Millward, Thomas Ellison, Michael Byrne, seamen; Henry Hillbrant, cooper; William Musprat, commander's steward; Joseph Cole- C man, armourer ; Charles Norman, carpenter's mate; Thomas M'Intosh, carpenter's crew; making twenty-five of the most able men in the ship.

The nineteen souls in the Launch were as follow : — WILLIAM BLIGH, commander ; John Fryer, master; William Elphinston, master's mate ; John Hallett, midshipman ; Thomas Hay ward, midshipman; Kobert Tinkler, a boy ; William Peckover, gunner ; William Cole, boatswain ; William Purcell, carpenter; Thomas D. Ledward, surgeon's mate; John Samuel, clerk and steward; David Nelson, botanist ; Lawrence Labogue, sailmaker ; Peter Linkletter, quarter-master ; John Norton, quarter-master ; George Simpson, quarter-master's mate ; Thomas Hall, ship's cook ; John Smith, commander's cook ; Hobert Lamb, butcher.

Having flung them a few pieces of pork, amounting to 32 pounds, 150 pounds of bread, 28 gallons of water, 6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles of wine, four cutlasses, a quadrant, and a compass, with a quantity of twine, canvass, and cordage, the mutineers sailed away. Christian, as if to keep up th&

MUEDEE OP JOHN NORTON. 27

courage of his comrades, and exert his usurped authority in the vessel, ordered a dram of spirits to be served to each. Little did they think, when shouting with joy at their miscalled liberty, what troubles they were bringing upon their own heads.

The party of men thus cast adrift on the wide ocean, were in a miserable condition. They began with touching at Tofoa, an island about thirty miles from the scene of the mutiny. There they landed and endeavoured to obtain bread-fruit, and water ; but after some show of friendship, the natives who lined the beach, gave signs of violence by knocking stones together, which they had in each hand. Macca-ackavow, one of their chiefs, having in vain requested Bligh to remain that night, May 1, 1789, the treacherous old chief got up, and said, " Then, mattie," which signifies, We will kill you, and left him. Scarcely had the poor voyagers reached their boat, when about two hundred natives attacked them with stones, which flew like a shower of shot ; and all would probably have been cut off by these savages, had not one of the crew, John Norton, quarter-

28 MUEDER OF JOHN NORTON.

master, run up the beach, for the purpose of releasing the boat. This brave man fell a sacrifice, in preserving the lives of his companions. He was surrounded by the natives, who barbarously murdered him, and afterwards beat him about the head with stones.

Poor Norton was a man of worthy character, who supported an aged parent out of his wages. They killed him on the beach, and dragged the body up the country to one of their matais, or lawns, and there left it exposed for two or three days before they buried it. This story was related by the islanders to Mr. William Mariner, when he visited Tofoa, eighteen years afterwards ; and they added, that no grass had since grown on the line along which they had dragged the corpse, nor upon the spot where it had lain unburied. Such a tale induced him to make further examination; and he found a bare line, as they had stated, in a place where it would seem there was no frequency of passers by ; and at the termination of the track, a bare spot, .extending transversely, about the length and breadth of a man.

This anecdote is found in Mariner's Account

MARINER AT TOFOA. 29

of the Natives of the Tonga Islands. It is not intended to give much weight to the story, there being many ways of explaining the seeming wonder. But a matter connected with one of the Bounty men, and so heroic a character too, deserves to "be recorded in this place. Those who related the marvellous part of the account were of such a treacherous and deceitful race, that Mariner, in visiting the volcano on the summit of Tofoa, in company with a native guide, thought it necessary to provide himself with a pistol, as a defence against any violent measures on the part of his companion. Nor would he advance with him too near the crater of the volcano, " lest the man might have some sinister intent."*

After the murder of Norton, on the 1st of May, many of the natives in canoes followed. Bligh's boat very quickly, and renewed the assault with stones of which they had brought a great quantity ; but, being attracted by some clothes which were, by his order, thrown to them, and which they stopped to pick up, they lost time, and abandoned the pursuit.

It was then resolved by the party, at * Mariner's " Tonga Islands," vol. i. chap. viii.

30 BLIGH AND HIS CREW.

Bligh's instance, to make for a Dutch settlement on the island of Timor, a distance of no less than 3,618 miles.

The sufferings undergone by these eighteen men, in a boat only twenty-three feet in length, and six feet nine inches in breadth, heavily laden, and without any awning, were very severe. They had to encounter heavy storms, and the pains of cold and hunger. Aware of the vast tract of voyage before them, they promised to be content with one ounce of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water a day for each person.

The courageous and skilful manner in which Bligh pursued his course to the end, forms a striking fact in the annals of naval adventure. Having intreated the men, in the most solemn manner, not to depart from the promise which they had made, he, on the 2d of May, bore away, and shaped his course for New Holland, across a sea little explored. The boat was of such limited dimensions, that her gunwales are stated to have been not more than six inches above the water. In a violent tempest, which soon broke over them, the boat shipped such a quantity of water,

FEEJEE ISLANDS. 31

that it was only by great exertions that she could be kept afloat.

On the 5th, continuing their course to the north-west, they saw and passed a cluster of islands. Hitherto they had not been able to keep any other account than by guess ; but they had now succeeded in getting a log-line marked, and by a little practice some could count the seconds with a tolerable degree of exactness. The helpless and confined state in which they were, induced Mr. Bligh to put his crew to watch and watch, so that one half might be on the look-out, while the others lay down in the boat's bottom, or upon a chest. Even this gave but a trifling alleviation to their sufferings. Being exposed to constant wet and cold, and not having room to stretch their limbs, they became often so dreadfully cramped as to be incapable of moving them.

On the 7th another group of islands was seen, from whence they observed two large canoes in pursuit of them, one of which, at four o'clock in the afternoon, had arrived within two miles of the boat, when the savages gave up the chase, and returned to

32 PEEJEE ISLANDS.

shore. Mr. Bligh concluded, from their direction, that these must have been the Feejee Islands.

The appearance of these islands, especially of the two largest, is generally very beautiful and interesting. They are well-wooded, and have extensive rivers. Little, however, is known respecting the interior : nor would it be safe to penetrate into the country without an armed party.

The late Captain Worth, who visited the Feejee islands in the Calypso in 1848, said in a report which he sent home, that the group, containing a very large population, may be conveniently divided into three parts, the Central, the Windward, and the Leeward islands.