Pioneers of the Rocky Mountains and the West

Front matter

■ -Ufdh VaHey Bror*

Genealogical Library

LIBRARY

Preface

The stories of early exploration in the Rocky Mountain region are spirited and interesting. They are of much value to children in all parts of the country, and to the children of the Rocky Mountains and of the Pacific Slope they furnish the best materials for early history study.

This third volume of the American History Stories is designed, therefore, as a series of introductory pioneer narratives for the children. The two preceding volumes. Pioneers on Land and Sea,” and Pioneers of the Mississippi Valley,” extend their view over other parts of our country through a similar class of biographical stories.

The Special Method in History gives in Chapter III a full discussion of the value of these pioneer stories, their place in the course of study, and the method of handling them in classes, with illustrations.

Several of these stories are made up almost wholly of source materials, as those of Coronado, Drake, Powell, and Park man, and to a less extent the others. Such original descriptions by eye-witnesses are simple and vivid beyond comparison.

The pictures of the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas and of The First House in Salt Lake City are from photographs in the Fay Collection, of Ds Kalb, Illinois.

De Kalb, Illinois,

October 2, 1903.

Contents

CHAPTER

L Lewis and Clark : Up the Missouri River and across THE Mountains to Oregon

11. Fremont’s First Trip to the Rocky jNIountains

Chapter I

LEWIS AND CLARK: UP THE MISSOURI RIVER AND ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS TO OREGON i

Lewis and Clark were two young men from Virginia, who had been appointed by Jefferson, the President of the United States, to make the first journey up the Missouri River to its sources in the Rocky Mountains, and then to find a way across these mountains to the rivers flowing into the Pacific Ocean. Lewis was the private secretary of President Jefferson and Clark was a brother of George Rogers Clark, who captured Vincennes.^

Until 1803 the United States had owned no land west of the Mississippi and even the American traders were not allowed to enter this great region. The French owned it and had called it Louisiana, and their fur traders were accustomed to pass up the river in boats, trade with the Indians, and return, laden with peltries, to St. Louis or other French villages on the Mississippi. But

1 Authorities: Journal of the Trip; Drake’s “ The Making of the Great West.”

B in 1803 Louisiana was sold to the United States by Napoleon, the French ruler, and Lewis and Clark were sent by Jefferson to explore it and to make a full report to the government. Perhaps they would find a good route of travel from St. Louis to the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean. They were to visit the Indian tribes along the river and tell them of the change of ownership. It was not known whether the Indians would be friendly or hostile or what difficulties would meet the explorers on the voyage up the swift current of the Missouri. They were also to observe the animals, trees, and plants, the soil and climate, with a view to future settlement. The government was ready to provide them well with boats, provisions, and arms, besides presents for the Indians. A keel-boat fifty-five feet long, and drawing three feet of water, carrying one large, square sail, and twenty-one oars,” was built for them at Pittsburg. A half-deck at the bow and stern formed forecastle and cabin, the middle being left open for the rowers.” The officers occupied one end and the men the other, for sleeping purposes. The explorers had also two or three smaller boats, propelled by oars.

Lewis and Clark selected twenty-six men for the journey. There were nine Kentuckians, fourteen United States soldiers, Uvo Canadian Frenchmen, and one negro, a body-servant of one of the leaders. The boats were well loaded with provisions, such as coffee, sugar, crackers, and dried meat, goods and presents for trading with the Indians, and clothing, tools, and instruments for the long and difficult journey. Even some horses were taken upon the larger boat and proved of much service. In the fall of 1803 the men and the deeply laden boats descended the Ohio and passed up the Mississippi, landing opposite the little French village of St. Louis. Here they waited for the spring, collecting information from the French traders about the river and the Indians and making still further preparations for the voyage.

On the 4th of May, 1804, the explorers left Wood River, just below the mouth of the Missouri. There were (including men enlisted at St. Louis) forty-two men in one large bateau and in two smaller boats. On the first night they encamped on the bank of the Missouri and felt for the first time that they were fully embarked upon their long and dangerous voyage. But the men were all volunteers, who had promised to explore and report to the government upon this newly purchased country, and none were disposed to draw back. They advanced slowly up the rapid stream, often striking the drifting logs which were carried down by the muddy current. On the 28th of May all the provisions and goods were put out from the boat to air and dry, and some of the men went out to hunt, bringing home a deer. Two days before this two of the men were sent out with horses by land, to explore the country back from the river and then to meet the boats again farther up the stream. On June 1 they returned to camp at the mouth of the Osage River, saying that the land they had passed through was the best they had ever seen. The timber was good, consisting of oak, ash, hickory, and black walnut. The Osage Indians, who lived about two hundred miles up this river, were of large size and very warlike. For the sake of security the arms and ammunition of the men were inspected and found to be in good condition. The hunters were sent out to bring in game for the wdiole party. On June 4 they returned with seven deer. The next day, while rowing slowly up the stream, the voyagers met two Frenchmen in two canoes loaded with peltries, which they had traded from the Indians farther up the river. Three days later they met four French canoes full of furs and skins, which the traders were accustomed to bring to St. Louis to sell.

On the 9th of June the boats passed through a narrow part of the river, where its current was only three hundred yards wide, very swift and difficult to stem. On one side was a level country, called by the Indians the Prairie of Arrows. In trying to pass round a raft of driftwood, in this part of the river, the stern of the large boat got fast and the prow was swung round by the current till the boat was in great danger of upsetting. The next day the wind blew so hard from the north that the men could not propel the boat against it and all were compelled to encamp upon the prairie. Setting out early the next morning, they went on without halt till five o’clock, when they were met by five canoes of Frenchmen, loaded with furs and peltries which had been bought from the Sioux nation of Indians. Stopping to talk with these traders, they stayed with them the

PIONEERS OF THE AVEST whole night and learned much about the river and the tribes above. They persuaded one of the Frenchmen, an old man who could speak the languages of the different Indian nations, to join them as their interpreter.

Not only was the constant labor of rowing against the swift current of the river a great hardship, but the oars became Avorn out and broken. For some days the party had been on the lookout for trees suitable for making oars. IlaAung found such a grove, they landed and the carpenters set to Avork to refit all the boats Avith oars. ^Yhile they Avere at this Avork the hunters Avere scouring the country for game. The largest animal they brought in Avas a bear and from this time on they frequently returned with bear’s meat for the camp. A fcAV days later, the hunters having returned Avith tAvo deer and a bear, the men halted, pitched camp upon the bank on a pleasant, sunny day, and jerked the meat ; that is, cut it into small pieces, or strips, and dried it in the sun. To their surprise, the hunters brought in also a fine, strong horse, Avhich they' found grazing on the meadoAvs, lost probably by some preAuous party. By constantly sending out the hunters, it Avas possible, not only to supply the camp Avith fresh meat, but even to lay in a stock for future use.

On the 21st of June the current became so SAvift that the oarsmen could not force the boats against it. In order to meet this difficulty a tow-rope was fastened to the boat and then grasped by the men on shore ; in this way the boat was dragged up for a mile till past the rapids. Soon after, in passing a sand-bar, the tow-rope broke and the large boat almost stranded. The mast and sail had proved of great advantage and in good weather and water the oars had not been needed. But the wind grew so strong that the mast was snapped oft and it was some weeks before the explorers found time and means to repair it. About the 1st of July they pitched their tents for two days opposite the mouth of the Kansas River. Exploring parties were sent out to examine the river and to meet any Indian tribes, while the hunters searched for fresh game. Four deer and a wolf were killed and one young wolf was taken alive. They were surprised one day by catching a large wood rat, different from any other animal they had seen. About this time they began also to catch and bring in beaver.

On the 22d of July the party camped at the mouth of the Platte River, whence the hunters were again sent out for bear, deer, and beaver. Six men were also sent up the river to inform the Indians that the United States had purchased all this region, and that the Indians in the future were to respect their Great Father at Washington instead of the French king. Presents were also on the meadows at the foot of the bluffs across from the present site of Omaha. Here Lewis and Clark pitched their camp and some of the Indian chiefs came to the council and received presents. They seemed to be pleased with the change in government. The peace-pipe was smoked and the Indians agreed to remain friendly to the party of white men as they travelled up the river. This, sent to the Indians and their chiefs were invited to meet Lewis and Clark in council. Those who had remained in camp at the mouth of the Platte were busy bringing in game, drying meat, arranging stores and provisions, airing the goods, and making new oars.

While still proceeding up the river, messengers were sent to the Indian tribes inviting them to meet the party

Lewis and Clakk in Council with the Indians (From an old print.)

the first great council with the Indians of the plains, was held near the present site of Council Bluffs.

Having parted in friendship from the Indians, the explorers again entered their boats and pushed northward. The valley of the Missouri contained groves of cottonwood and other hardwood trees, but when the hunting parties had climbed up the bluffs and looked out over the plains, the latter were seen to be mostly treeless and grassy. Great herds of buffaloes began to appear. Scouting and hunting parties were constantly sent out to get commanding views of the country. One of the men was taken sick, and, although all that was possible was done to relieve him, he died after a few days and was buried on a bluff overlooking the valley.

The explorers were entering the country now known as Dakota and began to meet again tribes of Indians, who did not appear so friendly as those farther to the south. Councils were held and presents were given but the savages, who were the Sioux of the prairies, did not seem to be satisfied. They were invited, however, to visit the boats and were kindly treated. Once, after holding a council with them, Lewis and Clark were preparing to reembark, when the Indians seized the cable and refused to permit them to launch out into the stream. Thinking that the Indians had evil designs, the leaders were on the point of giving the word to fire upon them.

PIONEERS OF THE AVEST when the sa\^ages let go and the boat drifted out into the current. They said, by way of excuse, that they only wanted to trade longer with the white men. As the boats continued northward, parties of Indians followed along the shore shouting to them to land again, as there were other tribes coming to meet the white men. But the explorers tliought it safer to keep to the middle of the stream to avoid further contact Avith the savages. Autumn had now come, the trees Avere bright Avith tinted leaves, and the wild-fowl Avere flying southward. West- Avard lay the country now knoAvn as the Black Hills, toward which herds of deer and antelope Avere returning before the winter set in.

As the cold nights came on and the Avaters of the river froze, the voyagers began to think of finding Avinter quarters before the deep snows and the extreme cold should begin. They had reached the land of the Mandans and decided to seek for some place upon the river, Avhere there was plenty of Avood for fuel and buildings. After searching several days along the stream, they decided to return doAvn the river a fcAV miles and to pitch their winter camp upon a wooded island. Having reached this spot, they felled trees, and built a stockade and log huts for shelter during the winter. The Mandans proA^ed friendly and helped them in building the cabins. Presents were exchanged with the Indians and the Avhites Avere attended

LEWIS AND CLALK upon their hunting-parties by the friendly natives. These Indians were accustomed to use round, tub-like boats, which were made of buffalo hides patched together. After the river had frozen over and the snows had fallen, they could travel up and down the valley or across the river on snow-shoes. During the long winter evenings, before the blazing fires the explorers heard curious traditions from the Indians. The following is said to be one of their legends : —

The Mandans believe that the whole tribe once lived underground near a wide, dark lake. Above, on the earth, grew a grapevine which sent its roots deep into the ground and gave the people below their first glimpse of light. Some of the tribe, more adventurous than the rest, climbed the grapevine to the w^orld above, and returned, bringing clusters of purple grapes. This wonderful deed so excited the admiration of the dwellers by the lake that they determined to climb the vine, and seek new homes above ground. And this would have been accomplished had not the vine broken under the weight of one very fat old lady, v/ho tumbled backward, taking half the people with her. The remainder reached the light safely and lived very contentedly above ground, but when they died, they expected to return again to the lake and dwell there forever.”

The voyagers learned also from the Indians, that after many days’ journey toward the setting sun, the white man would come to a gorge, wondrous deep and wild, where the whole river plunged foaming down with thunderous roar. They even spoke with veneration of the solitary eagle which had built her nest in a dead cottonwood among the mists of the cataract.”

The explorers, in their island camp, were sixteen hundred miles from the Mississippi at St. Louis. They had already met with much labor and difficulty. But the remainder of the voyage would be still more laborious. During the winter months they were collecting information for their future journey, mending their clothing and boots, and laying in stores of provisions. When the ice began to break up in the spring, the great floes would sometimes bring down a buffalo or other animal, which the hunters could easily slay.

Early in the spring the party was ready to continue the journey. The weaker men were sent back down the river, while the more robust and hearty set out in high spirits to meet the unknown dangers. But it was now much more difficult to force their way against the current. Shoals and rapids were frequent. The tow-lines had to be used in such places, or long poles, by means of which the boats were guided.

The mouth of the Yellowstone was passed and on the 26th of May the dim outline of the Bocky Mountains came into view, extending from north to south. The

LEWIS ANL CLARK summits, white with snow, stretched out like a long, low line of white clouds along the western sky. Still the hunting-parties were daily sent out to bring in fresh supplies of venison and buffalo meat, and around the blazing logs the stories of each day’s adventure were related. “ On the thirteenth day of June, while scouting in advance of his party. Captain Lewis saw, in the distance, a thin, cloudlike mist rising up out of the plain. To him it was like the guiding column which led the Israelites in the desert. Not doubting that it was the great fall which the Mandans had told him about, and of which he was in search. Captain Lewis hastened toward it. He soon heard its roar distinctly, and in a few hours more stood on the brink of the cataract itself. The Indians had told him truly. Not even the eagle’s nest was wanting to make their description complete. He was the first white man who had stood there, and he calls it a sublime sight. Thirteen miles of cascades and rapids! At headlong speed the Missouri rushes down a rocky gorge, through which it has torn its way, now leaping over a precipice, now lost to sight in the depths of the canon, a thousand feet below the plain, or again, as with recovered breath, breaking away from these dark gulfs into the light of day and bounding on again. No wonder that the discoverer stood forgetful of all else but this wondrous work of Nature.”

The boats were brought to a standstill at the foot of the series of falls and rapids. It was eighteen miles over a very rough country to smooth water above the falls, but it was decided to carry the boats and supplies around the falls. All the horses with which the party had started out from St. Louis had long since perished. Wheels were made, also a sort of wagon, by means of which the men dragged the boats and supplies overland. It took a good part of a month to get around the rapids, and then they found that the boats were not suited to the rough, narrow, and rocky stream above the falls. From the timber standing by the river the men made new boats by hollowing out the trunks of large trees. These dug-outs were not so easily dashed to pieces on the rocks. Proceeding in these boats, they came to the place where the river breaks its way through the foot-hills, or lower ranges. A deep, winding canon, five miles long and in places a thousand feet deep, has been worn down into the rocks by the action of the water during past ages. Through this deep and gloomy passage, called by them The Gate of the Mountains,” they reached the upper course of the river. They had passed near the present site of Helena and followed up the northern branch of the river, named by them the Jefferson.

Having come to the head of boat navigation, they stood at the foot of the main ridge of the Rocky Mountains. But they also stood at the beginning of their greatest difficulties. How to get over this rugged, rocky wall was a problem still unsolved. Scouts were sent out to search for Indian guides, and horses with which to carry their baggage across the range. But they found neither Indians nor horses and the trails leading up into the heights were lost sight of. It began to appear as if their forward journey was at an end, for a march across lofty and unknown mountains, without guides, is a most dangerous undertaking.

On August 9 Captain Lewis took three men and set out ahead of the main body to find Indians and a route across the mountains. They followed the course of the river for two days, when they were delighted to see an Indian approaching them two miles away on horseback. Examining him with his field-glass, Lewis was sure that he was a Shoshone, and wished much to secure the friendship and aid of this tribe. When they were within a mile of each other, the Indian suddenly stopped. Captain Lewis did the same, took a blanket from his knapsack and, holding it by two corners, threw it above his head and spread it upon the ground in sign of friendship. He then took from his pack some beads, a looking-glass, and some trinkets, and leaving his gun, advanced toward the Indian. He advanced to within a hundred paces, when the Indian leaped upon his horse and disappeared among the trees. They followed the tracks of his horse but Avere not able to overtake him.

As they climbed higher among, the mountains, they reached a small gap formed by the high mountains which recede on each side, leaving room for the Indian road. Here they had reached the remotest sources of the Missouri River, never before seen by white men, and as they quenched their thirst at the cool spring they felt rewarded for all their labors.

Pursuing the Indian road through the hills, Lewis and his companions arrived at the top of a ridge from which they saw, to the west, high mountains covered with snow. They stood on the dividing line between the Atlantic and the Pacific. Following a steep slope down the western -side, they came to a creek of clear cold water flowing westward. Here they found brush and dry fuel and camped. Having killed nothing during the day, they ate their last piece of pork and hoped to find something farther on to mix with a little flour and parched meal they had left. Having reached a valley, they followed it downward, hoping to meet Indians. Finally, seeing a man and two Avomen in the distance, Lewis made signs of friendship and ad- A^anced. But waiting till he came nearer, they ran off SAviftly and disappeared. Pushing on, the Avhite men came suddenly to a party of Avomen AAdio, not having time to run away, bowed their heads for the fatal stroke, expecting to be slain ; but Lewis treated them kindly, gave them presents, and asked to be led to their chiefs. He also painted their cheeks with vermilion, in proof of friendship. In this way they marched two miles and came to a troop of nearly sixty warriors, mounted, on excellent horses and riding at full speed toward them. As they came up Lewis put down his gun and went with a flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief, with two men, spoke to the women, who told them these were white men and showed the presents.

The three Indians at once leaped from their horses, came up to Captain Lewis, and embraced him with great cordiality, putting their left arms around his right shoulder and clasping his back, applying at the same time their left cheeks to his and frequently calling out, “ Ah hie ! Ah hie ! ” — I am much pleased ! I am much pleased ! ” The whole body of warriors now came forward and our men received the caresses and no small share of the grease and paint, of their new friends.

After this Captain Lewis lighted a pipe and handed it to the Indians, who were now seated in a circle. They pulled off their moccasins in proof of their sincere friendship, indicating that they wish to go barefoot among thorns and stones if they do not prove faithful to their words. After this ceremony all moved on to the Indian camp, which lay in a fine meadow by the bank of the river. Here they were introduced to a leathern lodge which the young men had prepared for them. The grass was pulled up in a circle about two feet in diameter and a fire built upon it. The pipe was then presented by the chief, the warriors pulled off their moccasins and the whites were asked to do likewise.

The smoking being completed. Captain Lewis explained the purpose of his coming and the women and children gathered about to view the strangers. Lewis distributed the remainder of his gifts and trinkets and then told the chief that he and his men had tasted no food since the night before. The Indians had nothing but some berries and some cake made of service-berries and choke-cherries, dried in the sun. On these Lewis made such a meal as he could.

Close by was a rapid river, forty yards wide, which the chief said soon joined a larger stream. There was also a great number of horses feeding near, which Lewis hoped to secure for getting his party across the mountains.

Captain Lewis now sent out his men to hunt for antelope and the Indians also went to hunt, but all returned without game.

Having now made friends with the chief, Lewis explained his need of getting thirty horses to assist in bringing his large party across the mountains. The chief promised to persuade his warriors to sup})ly them.

Captain Lewis rose early the next morning, and hav-. ing eaten nothing except his scanty meal of flour and berries, was extremely hungry. He found that his whole stock of provisions was two pounds of flour. This was divided into two parts and half of it boiled with berries into a sort of pudding. After presenting a large share of it to the chief, he and his three men breakfasted on the remainder. The chief was delighted with this new dish ; he took a little of the flour in his hand, tasted, and examined it closely, asking whether it was made of roots. Lewis explained the process of making the flour, and the cliief said it was the best thing he had tasted for a long time.

Lewis now hastened to be off with horses on his return trip, but discovered that the Indians were suspicious of his good intentions. He asked the chief about this, who replied that the Indians feared that the whites were leading them into an ambush. Then Lewis grew serious and said the whites did not lie and deceive, that a large party of traders, under a white chief, was just across the range waiting to trade with the Indians, and that if they did not welcome them, another tribe would do so. Then he asked the Indians whether they were afraid, whether they were not brave enough to go to see and find out for themselves. This appeal to their pride and bravery aroused the Indians and the chief and six or eight warriors on horseback started out with Lewis. They were later joined by a dozen more Indians and later still all the men and some of the women joined them, having suddenly changed from gloom and fear to great gayety and confidence.

The next day Lewis and his party crossed back over the main divide at the pass and stopped at the spring. Two of the white hunters were sent ahead to secure game and Lewis suggested that the chief keep the young braves back so as not to scare away the game.

This aroused the suspicions of the Indians and soon all of them deserted Lewis except the chief and twenty-eight men and a few women. Soon an Indian brave rode back, saying that one of the hunters had killed a deer. The Indians pushed forward, and as they came up with the hunter who was dressing the deer, they seized upon the liver and parts of the animal which he was casting away and devoured them raw. The blood from the raw flesh streamed from their mouths, producing a disgusting spectacle. Captain Lewis divided up the animal, saved one-quarter for the whites and gave the rest to the Indians. They immediately devoured it raw. Two other deer and also an antelope were shot by one of the white hunters. These were likewise divided among tlie Indians and. put them in great good humor.

As they were a])proaching the main party of white people, the chief halted and put tippets of skin around the necks of the white men like those worn by the Indians. As this was intended to disguise the hite men, Lewis, in order to give them confidence, put liis cocked hat and feather on the head of the chief, and a's his own overshirt was like that of the Indians and his skin browned by the sun, he could not have been distinguished from an Indian. The other men followed his example and the change seemed very agreeable to the Indians.