A pilgrimage to Auvergne, from Picardy to Le Velay

Front matter

The HAROLD B. LEE LIBRARY

A gift from the library of

John P. Hawkins

Chapter I. Page

The Palace of the Great Merchant. — Mission to the Pope. — Chapel Statues. — Carving. — Figurines. — Soeurs Bleues. — L*Hotel TAllemand. — Oratory. — Singular Inscription. ......... 1

Chapter II

Cujas. — Scaliger. — Musee. — Leach-ry. — Villes Rouges. — Agnes Sorel. — Mehun. — Streets. — Fosse des Allemands. — La Grande Bete. — Aubigny. — Boisbelle. — Dampierre. — Stone Pulpit. — Celts and Romans. — Dun le Roi. — Hercules. . . . . . . . . . .15

Chapter III

St. Amand. — Montrond. — The Author. — Charivari. — Chateau Meillant. — Montlu^on. — Neris. — Entrance to Auvergne. — First View of the Puy de Dome. -^ St. Amable 32

VOL, II. d

VI CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Page

Capital of Auvergne. — La Limagne. — Mont-Fenand. — Notre Danie du Port. — Jardiii des Plantes — Library. — The Puys.— St. Alyre 50

Chapter V

Valley of Royat. — The Springs. — Market-days. — The Three Races. — Patois of Auvergne. — Guillaume Duprat. — Battle of the Beards. — Montrognon. — Rock of Waifres. — — Perils of the Vines. — Mazes. — Montjuzet. . . G7

CHAPTER VL

The Puy de Dome— The Guide.— The Ascent.— Wild Mountaineer. — Petit Puy. — Nid de la Poule. — The Summit reached. — Witches' Sabbath.— The Four Priests. — Burnhig Mountains. — Costume. . . . . .80

CHAPTER Vn.

Thiers. — Durole and Dore. — The enamoured Guide. — The Fair Stranger. —La Filleta Muda. — L'Home Conten. — Notre Dame des Piques. — Chateau des Hauts. — Le Petit Malheureux. — La Marjeride. — Pierres Plats. — The Blacksmith. — Montagnarde. ...... 9;^

CHAPTER VIIL

Guittard-Pinon. — Smart Carriage. — Courpiere. — Durole an<i Dore. — La Laveuse de Nuit. — Oliergues. — EngHsh

CONTENTS. Vll

PAGE

Moon. — Protestants. — Ambert. — Pere Gauchon. — The Driver. — Beauty of Country. — Mountain Road. — Extensive View, a Lionne, — Gevaudan. — Velay. . .111

CHAPTER IX.

La Chaise Dieu. — Cup of St. Robert. — Le Cheval Blanc. — Primitive Repast. — The Night. — The Monastery. — Dance of Death. — The Hand. — The Bishops of La Chaise Dieu. — Vengeance after Death. — St. Paulien. — Etmscilla.— Polignac. — The Mask.— St. Didier. . .130

CHAPTER X.

Le Puy. — Place du Breuil. — Cathedral. — Notre Dame d'Aout. — Costume. — Lameness. — Lacemakers. ■ — Sumptuary Law. — Heresy. — Punishment. — Psalm singing. . 149

CHAPTER XL

The Terrible Baron. — Blacons. — Siege of Le Puy. — Armed Monks. — Church Militant. — Warlike Hermit. — Siege Raised. — Chalan9on. — Le Grand Justicier. . .168

CHAPTER XII.

Attack of La Chaise Dieu. — The Routiers. — Tombs. — The Three Saints.— The Chatelain de St. Vidal — The Letter. — Siege of Espaly. — The Repulse. — The Citizen Guyard. — Reprisals. — St. Voy. — De la Rodde. — Bouzols. —The Combat 182

Vlll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIII.

PAGE

Coubon.— Rocks and Mountains. — Ballads of Clotllde. — Chansons. — Aiguilhe. — St. Michel. — Manners and Customs.—The Burons.— The Herds.— The Fall of the Distaff.— Good Cheer. — Conperages. — Poets of Auvergne. — Pons de Capdeuil. — Pierre Cardinal. — Pierre d' Auvergne. 204

CHAPTER XIV.

Brioude. — The Condemned Lady of Mauriac. — Nonette. — Usson. — Marguerite de Valois. — Marquis de Canillac. — The Ruse. — The Conquest. — The Castle. — Amethysts. — Ruined Castles. — Coudes. — Pariou. — Facetious Postmen. — An Old Acquaintance. . . . . . .229

CHAPTER XV.

Randanne. — The Count.- — The Tomb and the People. — Inn at Montchaud. — The Dejeuner. — The Storm Birds. — The Tempest Fiend. — Arrival at the Village des Bains. 246

CHAPTER XVI.

The Monts Dores — The Cascades. — Eagle. — Scieries de Bozat. — The Sisters of the Mills. — The Bijoux in the

Boxes Madame Laffarge. — Effects of Eighteen Months'

excursion. — Murol. — St. Nectaire. — Magdeleine. — The Good Bishop 255

CHAPTER XVII.

Bourboule. — Aimerigot. — The Little Feet. — The Changeling. — La Roche Vendeix. — Pic de Sancy. — Cas-

CONTENTS. IX

PAGE

cade du Serpent. — Marals de la Dore. — Vassiviere. — Banne d'Ordenche. — Return Northward. . . . 290

CHAPTER XVIII.

La Relne Pedauque. — Moulins. — College. — Marie Feli-

cie des Urslns. — Perrette. — Bete. — Mal-coiffee Yzeure.

— Costume. — Cornemuse. — Bourree. — Montargis. — Paris.

— Rouen 316

CHAPTER XIX.

Chemin de Quarante Sous. — Vernon and Vernonette. — St. Patrice at Rouen. — Autograph of William the Conqueror.— Chasse of St. Sever. — Drogon de Trubleville. — Model of St. Maclou.— Miracle des Billettes. — The Jew. — Route to the Coast. . . . . .* . .331

CHAPTER XX.

Eu. — Arques. — Curiosities near Home. . . . 339

PILGRIMAGE TO AUVERGNE.

CHAPTER I. Palace of Jacc[ues Coeur

The plan of the Palace of Jacques Coeur is extremely irregular, which may probably be accounted for from the space allotted to it. By a charter of Louis VIII. the people of Bourges were permitted to build on the ancient Roman ramparts, in consequence of the increasing size of the town in 1224. Jacques Coeur probably bought up all the ground he could, but many of the houses were in his way, and prevented his plans, if indeed he did not rather prefer the intricacy perceptible in the edifice. Part of the house looks like a fortress, the rest like an ornamented palace : the strange-shaped towers on one side are all of different sizes and forms.

VOL. II. B

2 PALACE OF THE GREAT MERCHANT.

The facade from La Rue Jacques Coeur is that which is most striking, and on which all the riches of architectural fancy must have been lavished : its beautiful toiirelle and pavilion, with an open balcony of the most delicate workmanship,— its flamboyants ornaments, inscriptions, and enigmas in stone, — all are charming and surprising. The celebrated device is no longer to be seen where it once stood, but is preserved in some of the stone-work saved from the wreck of revolutionary violence, and since nearly sacrificed to the utilitarian notions which have swept away more than half the precious debris of this beautiful monument. We saw, however, the balustrades entwined with a banderolle, on which we read

A vaillants cueurs rien impossible,

and the hearts and pilgrim shells which are repeated everywhere in the ornaments.

On each side of the richly adorned doorway, now much defaced, are still seen the semblance of a half-open window, in stone, before which is an open carved balcony, where stands a figure in the costume of the bourgeoisie of the period, one male and the other female : they are looking out into the street, and seem watching

MISSION TO THE POPE. 3

anxiously. What these statues are intended to represent, cannot now be known : the common people of Bourges call them the faithful servants of Jacques Coeur, who stood all night at the windows, to warn him not to approach his house, where his enemies had possession.

His misfortunes did not overwhelm him immediately, and after the first attacks of his foes he appears to have been triumphant, as we see him in 1448 deputed, together with Juvenel des Ursins Bishop of Reims, and Tanneguy du Chatel bailli de Berry, to compliment Pope Nicolas V. on his elevation to the papal dignity, and on the occasion displaying his usual magnificence, going to Rome in galleys of wonderful pomp and splendour, which he had himself furnished for the whole embassy. On his voyage, this man of wealth, finding that the Chateau de Final, which held out for the king against the Genoese forces, that were besieging it, required re -victualling, undertook the whole charge, both for the castle and the town.

This being considered, it is not impossible that, in memory of the service his servants had rendered him, he really had their figures placed where they stand; though unfortunately

B 2

4 CHAPEL.

his clanger was far from being passed, and overtook him afterwards.

In the central pavilion is the chapel, one of the most perfect hijouw ever beheld. The porch is ornamented with bas-reliefs and ornaments of the richest kind : the spiral staircase leads to apartments now occupied by clerks connected with the business of the Hotel de Ville, one of whom with the greatest courtesy invited us in, and exhibited all the riches of his domicile.

The extreme smallness of the dimensions of this beautiful chapel makes it a matter of surprise how all Jacques Coeur's family could here have attended mass : the numerous domestics must have been placed in an adjoining gallery. The seats of honour are still to be seen parted off. The roof is bright with the richest ultramarine and gold ; the frescoes of angels bearing scrolls are even yet fresh, and the drawing extremely correct and graceful ; some of the cherubs' heads are exquisite, the positions of the white-robed choir inimitable, and the whole executed with a purity of expression and delicacy of colouring quite faultless.

Two niches or tribunes project from the chapel, — one into the street, the other into the

STATUES. O

court. They are open, supported by richly carved columns, and covered with delicate ornament, now greatly defaced. These niches are empty now, but formerly held two statues, an equestrian one of Charles VII. armed at all points, and a figure of Jacques Coeur himself, mounted on his mule, which is shod the reverse way. This is one of the enigmas which appear in all corners, and is difficult to explain.

It will hardly be believed that the barbarians of the law have, within a few years, in arranging this magnificent hotel for their purpose, destroyed the most precious morsels, in order to make rooms, closets, and passages. Several fine chimney-pieces, unique in their kind, have been broken up, — some divided into two, some concealed in a dark passage, — and the walls have been scraped and cleaned, carrying away, with accumulated dirt, carvings in stone of exquisite beauty, which there was no occasion whatever to remove : cornices, wainscot, ceilings, — all fell before the hammer of the carpenter ; and it is only here and there, in examining closely, that the most exquisite little bits are found, proving the glories which have been mercilessly swept away, — statuettes in niches, courses of

6 CARVING.

foliage like laeework, vaulted cielings in cupboards, concealed staircases with doors opening on to them, covered and surrounded with carving,

" Able to draw men's envies upon man I "

Most of these treasures are daubed over with a thick coating of paint or whitewash, but it is something that they do not lie in a heap of rubbish, such as distresses the mind, in an inner court, from whence a judicious order from government is now rescuing and restoring some pieces of sculpture worthy to be preserved in a National Museum.

Some of the wooden doors, which no longer exist, were richly carved in relief; one which led to a long mysterious narrow passage, conducting to the Place Berry, is peculiarly fine, being covered with the heart and shell which form the heads of the nails with which it is studded ; this is to be seen elsewhere, and is replaced by a modern one exactly copied, but of very inferior execution.

Nothing can be so singularly irregular as the whole building; not a line runs parallel with another, not a wall which does not meet another at right angles — all is apparently confused and intricate, a perfect labyrinth,

" A marvel and a secret."

FIGURINES. 7

There are two figures on the principal staircase, whose rich costume, similar to those seen, with all their details, in the manuscripts of the period, proclaim them to be Jacques Coeur, and his wife Marie de Leodepart.

On the tunic of the merchant his name is in hieroglyphics as usual, the hearts and the pilgrim shell of St. Jacques ; or it has been thought that some unrecorded connexion perhaps existed between him and the family of Guy Coquille, so well-known in the Nivernois. In one hand the founder holds a hammer, and in the other a bouquet, which he presents to his wife.

In the salle -a -manger^ the form remains the same as in old times ; there is still the gallery erected for the musicians, jongleurs, trouveres and troubadours, whose gaie science had not then quite disappeared. About the centre of the room is a large flagstone, leading to a cellar of extensive size, destined to receive the most precious objects, in case of the necessity of concealing them ; this was probably hidden by some ornamental flooring over it.

On the roof are still to be seen quantities of ornamental statuettes in lead, executed with great care, notwithstanding the height from which they were to be viewed. The pipes and chimneys have twisted columns, wreathed with beautifully

8 SCEURS BLEUES.

Uioulded foliage ; numerous grotesque figures of apes carrying off children, dogs with open mouths, and other enormities, gape and grin from every corner. We mounted a very high tower, from a window of which these things were pointed out to us.

Over every door are, or were, entablatures which represent, with great minuteness, the occupations carried on in that part of the building. Over the kitchen entrance a group is busy cooking ; over the chapel, figures ringing a bell, bringing the host in procession ; over another, a page ushering in company. Some have trees over the porch, of different oriental shapes ; barrels, coils of ropes, agricultural implements, vessels, piles of merchandise — in fact the whole of the walls, inside and out, seem incrusted with hieroglyphics ; and when this wondrous fabric was in its original splendour, it must have been as dazzling and elaborately extraordinary as any that ^Moorish or Indian architecture could produce.

Another of the wonders and beauties of Bourges is a concealed treasure, situated in La Rue des Vielles Prisons, where a convent of Soeurs Bleues is established in the ancient palace called rH6tel FAllemand. We had walked several times down the street, and had observed some antique-looking windows and a low portal, but

L'HOTEL L'ALLEMAND. 9

should not have ventured to ring at the inviting bell, had we not been assured that the Sisters would with the greatest awpressement show us the interior.

We rejoiced at having done so, for the pretty, quiet, neat nun who admitted us, exhibited to our view such exquisite morceaux of art, that we could not sufficiently congratulate ourselves on having found what so few amongst this supine population were acquainted with. Its very existence had been denied when I inquired for it, and one of the principal bankers of Bourges, of whom I asked, seemed to consider me in an English dream; his wife, — for ladies are generally in all bureaux, ■ — with more tact, seeing that I insisted on the Hotel's existence, thought it well to acknowledge there had been such a monument, but assured me that it was now destroyed.

However, our triumph was complete, for we visited it in all its details ; and even if the Maison de Jacques Coeur itself did not exist, Bourges would be worth a Pilgrimage, if it could only show the exquisite little miniature Hotel I'Allemand.

It takes its name from its proprietors of the sixteenth century, rich financiers; but the date of its original construction is by no means certain. Tradition says that Louis XI. was born here : it is a pity to believe this, as he

10 HOTEL L'ALLEMAND.

deserved to have first seen the light in a dungeon rather than in so lovely a spot.

A poet or an artist might have built this temple for himself, after his own taste, but that ces gens4a seldom have sufficient funds to carry out the desire they may have to execute an idea. It seems that the outward simplicity is not accidental but designed, in order that the riches of the interior ornaments may impress the mind still more. The doors of entrance were, however, fine, but their grace rather injured by shields of armorial bearings having been added by some later proprietor, and intruded amongst the delicate mouldings ; revolutionary vengeance was therefore directed against these doors, and their beauties almost all destroyed.

Having entered the court, which is small and of elegant shape, the charms of the building are in full view; an upper court in the form of a terrace is constructed over enormous cellars, which are of unknown and mysterious date. The walls are adorned with medallions of great beauty; the mouldings and tablets decorated in the richest manner ; small tourelles covered with arabesque tracery to the very pinnacles ; portals supported by wreathed pillars, and the whole so small and delicate that it seems to require

ORATORY. 11

a microscope to see the details in bas-relief, which cluster all over the facade of this fairy edifice ; yet the ensemble is bold and grand, as if executed on a much larger scale.

Over the doorway of the principal tourelle is a medallion of a warrior with a grotesquely-shaped helmet on. It is thought that a devise which is round it has allusion to the legend which asserts that the kings of France descended from Priam, one of whose sons founded Troyes in Champagne.

Another exquisite tourelle rests upon a bizarre figure of a warrior, strangely distorted, who holds in his arms a fox, and has wings to his helmet; the general effect of this strange support is nevertheless good. All the windows are incrusted with the richest ornament, and all is i^erfectly preserved.

Hours may be passed here in examining the inconceivable varieties of detail, prodigally scattered round this unique court ; nor is the interior of the house less beautiful.

The chapel or oratory is one mass of lacework carving, of the smallest and most miniaturelike patterns ; on the ceiling the same mystery appears as that with which Jacques Coeur loved to surround himself Three large slabs of stone are divided into thirty compartments, each con-

12 ORATORY.

taining a picture in bas-relief, sculptured with the most astonishing minuteness. Every one of these is a riddle. Here a hand is gathering a chesnut ; here a globe is bursting into flames, and some of the subjects are less delicate than grotesque ; the letters E and R are very frequently repeated ; and in a little decorated niche near the altar the whole ground of the foliage pattern is covered with the same letters placed in every possible position.

Numerous spiral staircases, adorned with statuettes on brackets, all carved with the greatest perfection, lead to the different salons.

One of these has a carved wood ceiling, in compartments containing bosses and rosettes of extreme beauty ; in the middle of each rosette is a letter, and J and G appear as well as E and R.

On the ground-floor is a room, now used as a school-room by the Soeurs Bleues, and quite a picture for neatness and order ; here is a magnificent chimney-piece enriched with arabesques. The porcupines of Louis XII., the ermine of Anne of Brittany, and the salamander of Francis I. are conspicuous here ; the latter is surrounded by a row of hurdles, which form a cage in which he burns. I do not remember to have seen the devise so represented before.

SINGULAR INSCRIPTION. 13

From the front court there is a covered way, something similar to that at the Hotel de Jacques Cqeur, which conducts to the back court, and into the street behind. It has a very sensible descent, and is calculated for the passage of horses. The vaulting is very ancient and fine.

The back of the house is highly ornamented, but much less so than the principal facade.

On a black marble slab in a room close to the outer paved court, is the following inscription : —

Des Allemans Thotel,

At one time it was proposed to establish a museum in this hotel, but it was afterwards de-

14 SCHOOL.

cided to receive within its walls from two to three hundred little girls, who are instructed in the first rudiments of learning by Les Soeurs de la Sainte Famille or Soeurs Bleues, who took possession of it in 1826.

CHAPTER II. Maison de Cujas

The next building of interest at Bourges is the Maison de Cujas, who died in this town in 1590, where his fame for learning had attracted a host of pupils, and where he was called Le Pere des Ecoliers. His opinions, his science, and his services to letters made him numerous enemies ; and the religious controversy forced on him embittered his life. He, however, courageously defended himself, and publicly maintained his doctrine of the propriety of allowing liberty of conscience.

Threats, promises, bribes, and entreaties importuned him to embrace the cause of the League against Henry IV., but he remained honourably steady to his principles. He had the happiness of saving the life of Jules-Cesar Scaliger, at

16 CUJAS. — SCALIGER. >^^

Valence, during the massacre of St. Bartliolomew ; Scaliger came afterwards to visit Cujas at Bourges, when the illustrious professor thus wrote to a friend : —

" I have here M. de la Scala, whose pleasant society has drawn me from the sepulchre into which I was miserably plunged: he has partly dried my piteous tears."

Cujas was secretary of Catherine de Medicis, and had a pension settled on him by Henry III. of 1200 livres, dispensing him from fulfilling his functions at court, as they might interfere with his literary occupations. The town of Bourges gave a pension to his daughter Susanne, whose celebrity was, however, of a very different kind to that of her father.

There is a fine portrait of him in the Hotel de Ville, near a precious one of Jacques Coeur, which latter was found in a dilapidated apartment in a perfect state of preservation ; the colour as fresh and glowing as the execution is delicate and expressive.

The house of Cujas is now a gem-d'armerie, and there is little remaining of the antique structure, which is in great part of brick, much ornamented in patterns. There is some curious allegorical fresco painting on one of the walls,

MUS^E. 17

now almost effaced, and there still exist some medallions round the court.

The archbishopric and its gardens are remarkable, but possess little interest beyond their vastness and their vicinity to the cathedral, the tourelles and spires of which appear between the trees. There is in the garden a remarkably fine avenue of lindens of great height, considered unique in France; but the walks are in this part so slovenly, that its beauty is much injured. The building was never finished; thus, though some part of it is fine, the rest not answering to it, the effect of the whole is spoilt. It was begun by the Archbishop Phelyppeaux de la Vielliere, whose family obtained a lett7'e de cachet from the king to prevent its continuation. The garden was designed by Lenotre.

There is a museum at Bourges, or rather a suite of salons which afford place for enough curiosities to fill a very extensive gallery. It is crowded to such a degree that, as at the Hotel de Cluny in Paris, the embarras des richesses has no end, and nothing can be seen well. As this house is only used as a temporary receptacle for all the treasures it contains, it is to be hoped a larger one will soon be granted ; but there is little learning

VOL. II. c

18 THE LEACH-RY.

or taste for the arts in Bourges, and everything is as stagnant and vapid as possible.

We had heard that in the Place Gorthaine might still be seen an altar once sacred to the Druids. In vain we inquired if such a stone as la Pierre de Leach-ry existed : nothing could exceed the civility with which every one of whom we inquired rushed to their doors, called their neighbours, and ran to the corners of their streets ; but no one had ever heard of such a thing, and we were nearly giving it up in despair, when, at the side of the market-place, nearly in the centre of the Grande Place, we discovered the identical object we sought.

An old fruit-woman lifted her basket from the top, where it rested, that we might examine and identify it ; and, what her impression of us could have been, in common with that of her surrounding friends, we might judge by the astonished and pitying expression of their countenances as we knelt down to regard this singular stone nearer.

The Leach-ry, or Pierre de la Crie^ as it is popularly called, is a block of fine-grained stone, which looks almost polished like marble, probably from long friction ; in this are cut two steps, not more than nine inches high and

DRUIDICAL ALTAR. 19

eight wide ; the top of the altar is about oneand-twenty inches by seventeen square, all round which is a sim]3le cornice of slight projection. It appears as if it must have sunk in the earth, as it is now of so inconsiderable an elevation ; and the irregularity of the ground near it makes this conjecture probable enough. How this stone came to be spared when the market-square was newly paved and arranged, seems singular, but probably some ancient usage preserved it, and it is useful to the market-people as a place on which to sit or to rest their panniers. It probably was once surmounted by a cross, but nothing now appears to tell of its destination.

There are not many traces left of the numerous monuments erected at Bourges by the Romans, except in the names of some of the streets, a few walls, and the bases of some towers.

In the Place des Arenes are many cellars belonging to the different houses, which are of that early period, if not constructed by the Gauls long before. Those of the S^minaire and of the convent of Ursulines are similar.

In the Rue d'Auron may be seen two fine capitals of columns supposed to have formed part of a temple of great importance. Four

c 2

20 VILLES ROUGES.

aqueducts can still be traced in the neigli-

bourhood of the town.

Along the ramparts in the old wall may be

seen a chain of Roman brick, particularly on

the promenade Serancourt. There was formerly

a proverb which said :

alluding to the fact of each of these towns being built of brick.

Near the Porte St. Michel is a doorway of very remarkable beauty, which formerly belonged to the church of St. Ursin. The ornamental details are in the most entire preservation, and it is impossible to describe their perfection. The arch of this door is circular. The tympanum is filled with bas-reliefs, the subject of one of which is Esop's fable of the wolf and the stork : another represents a hog in a chariot drawn by geese, and one an ass burthened and a bear who is eating. Then come pictures in stone of a wild boar hunt, the figures of great purity. In the lower part is a rural calendar or zodiac : two columns support this part, which must have belonged to the same temple. An inscription in the centre of the frieze is as follows : — Giraldus feet istas portas.

AGNfeS SOREL. 21

The whole is of extreme elegance and grace, and is a most precious morceau of antiquity.

The Sainte Chapelle of Bourges, a monument of the liberality of Duke Jean le Magnifique, celebrated for many ages, has entirely disappeared : in the museum is a beautiful model or archetype of it in wood, of great antiquity, which displays in an admirable manner its splendour and richness. The few tombs saved in its wreck I have named before, as existing in the crypt of the cathedral.

In the museum also are many of the statu-^ ettes which adorned the tomb of the magnificent duke.

I must not forget to mention one of the pieces of antique furniture preserved in the museum, which struck us, namely, an elaborately carved ebony cabinet, supported by columns of fine workmanship, each a torso figure ; this came from the castle of Bois-sire-ame, formerly belonging to Agnes Sorel.

This chateau was situated in a thick forest near Bourges, and was given by Charles VII. to his adored Agnes, who gave it the romantic name it bore. It was from the height of these towers that Agnes made signals to her royal lover at his chateau of Mehun-sur-Yevre at eight leagues distance.

ZZ MEHUN.

We saw a curious engraving of this ancient castle of Mehun, which is now entirely destroyed, though once a great object of interest to amateurs who visited Bourges. It came to Duke Jean le Magnifique when he was named Duke of Auvergne and Berry, and returned to the crown after his death, when it became the favourite residence of Charles VII., who rebuilt and beautified it.

Whatever blame may attach to their intercourse, the enamoured king and his beautiful mistress had the grace to surround themselves with mystery ; for, wherever traces are shown of them, secret ways, subterranean passages, and other evidences of secresy are found, proving that they at least

^' Assumed a virtue if they had it not."

From his tower of Mehun, at an hour agreed upon, Charles looked to Bois-sire-ame, where, instead of the usual vases of flowers, was to be seen a burning torch, announcing different events. Every night and morning they told each other of their rising, and said " goodnight" by means of signals. It was in this very castle that the weak king, for such he must have been, starved himself to death, liav-