Para; or, Scenes and adventures on the banks of the Amazon

Preface

Those wlio have wandered in strange and beautiful lands, where the wonderM objects around them have aroused emotions of delight and pleasm'e of which they were before unconscious, naturally feel a desire to communicate their impressions, either for the gratification of jfriends, or the entertainment of the public. The writer of this unpretending narrative frankly acknowledges that he has been influenced by both of these considerations. So little has of late been written on the subject of Brazil, — a coimtry which in regard to its natural advantages is perhaps the most luxuriant in the world, — that he desires, if possible, to direct attention to the extraordinary magnificence and beauty of that province particularly which lies along the banks of the Amazon, and which extends from the shores of the Atlantic to the base of the towering Andes! Throughout this immense domain the reign of summer is perpetual and midistm*bed. Scarcely

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P R E F A C K a miinnur of civilization breaks uiDon the prevailing solitude! The gigantic forests are inhabited by tribes of savage Indians, birds of the most brilliant plnmage, and serpents of inmimerable varieties and enormous size. With truth therefore, may it be said, that

" Wildly here without control, Nature reigns and rules the whole."

New Vork, May 10, 1851.

P A E A .

Chapter I

Evening on the Amazon — The Harbor of Para — Promiscuous Bathing — A Brazilian Dinner — Beautiful Garden — Manufacture of India Rubber Shoes — First Night Ashore.

The shades of evening were gathering fast upon the waters, when the Httle bark, in which we had safelycrossed the wide expanse of ocean, now quietly anchored in the mighty river of the Amazons.

Through the rich twilight we were able to discern the white sandy shore, skirting a dense forest of perennial luxuriance and beauty. Gentle zephyrs, fraught with the most delightful fragrance from the wilderness of flowers, softly saluted our senses ; while occasionally the soft and plaintive voices of southern nightingales came with mellowed sweetness to our ears.

The queenly moon, unobscured by a sjjigle cloud, threw an indescribable charm o\er the enchanting scene.

V^ reflecting her brilliant rcays upon the placid surface of the river, and shrouding the beautiful foliage of the forest in a drapery of gold. Innumerable stars brightly glittered in the azure firmament, and the constellation of the "Southern Cross" gleamed above us hke a diadem.

All around seemed to be wrapped in the most profound repose. Not a sound disturbed the silence of the interminable solitude save the hushed and mournful notes of evening birds, the distant howling of prowling jaguars, or the rustling of the wind through the forest trees. Nature appeared to us, for the first time, in all her pristine loveliness, and seemed indeed, to our excited imagination, to present but a dreamy picture of fairy land.

At an early hour in the morning we weighed anchor, and with a fresh breeze and strong tide rapidly moved up the noble river, gliding by the most beautiful scenery that fancy can conceive.

The nearly impenetrable forest which lined the shore was of a deep emerald green, and consisted of exceedingly lofty trees, of remarkably curious and grotesque figures, interlaced together by numerous running vines, the interstices of which were filled up with magnificent shrubbery.

We observed, towering high above the surrounding trees, manv singular species of palms, among which the far-famed cocoa-nut proudly stood pre-eminent. This beautiful tree gives a peculiar witchery to a tropical landscape, which those only who have seen it can possibly realize. The trunk grows up perfectly perpendicular to a great height, before it throws out its curious branches, which bend over as gracefully as ostrich plumes, and quiver in the slightest breeze. Consequently, the general appearance of the tree at a distance is somewhat similar to that of an umbrella.

As we gradually proceeded, we now and then caught glimpses of smiling cottages, with their snug little verandas and red-tiled roofs peering from amid the foliage of the river's banks, and giving, as it were, a character of sociality and animation to the beauteous scene.

Perhaps the most interesting spot that we noticed was an estate bearing the name of Pinherios, which had been formerly the site of a Carmelite convent, but which has lately been sold to the government for a " Hospital dos Lazaros." Here also was an establishment for the manufacture of earthenware tiles, which are extensively used throughout the Brazilian empire for roofing houses.

So low is the valuation of land in this section of Brazil, that this immense estate, embracing within its limits nearly three thousand acres, and situated, as it is, within twelve miles of the city of Para, was sold for a sum equivalent to about four thousand dollars. This may be taken as a fair standard of the value of real

PARA estate in the vicinity of Para. That of the neighboring islands is comparatively trifling ; while there are millions of fertile acres now wholly unappropriated, which oflfer the richest inducements to all emigrants who may be disposed to direct their fortunes thither.

It was near mid-day when our good vessel anchored in the commodious harbor of Para. The atmosphere was exceedingly moist, and the thermometer standing at about eighty-five in the shade. A number of English, American, and French vessels were in the harbor, together with several Brazilian men-of-war, and a variety of small Indian craft, of singular construction, from the little " montaria," simply composed of the trunk of a tree hewn out, to the fantastically built sloops which are employed in trading up the Amazon.

The harbor itself is quite safe, and eminently picturesque and beautiful. The river, being at the city almost four miles in width, is thickly studded with little islands, which being covered with the most luxuriant verdure, add not a little to the varied beauty of its scenery.

The city of Para is delightfully situated on the southern branch of the Amazon, called, for the sake of distinction, " The Para River." It is the principal city of the province of the same name, — an immense territory, which has very appropriately been styled " The Paradise of Brazil.^'' The general aspect of the place, with its low and venerable looking buildings of solid stone, its massive churches and moss-grown ruins, its red-tiled roofs and dingy-white walls, the beautiful trees of its gardens, and groups of tall banana plants peeping up here and there among the houses, constituted certainly a scene of novelty, if not of elegance and beauty.

The first spectacle which arrested our attention on landing was that of a number of persons of both sexes and all ages, bathing indiscriminately together in the waters of the river, in a state of entire nudity. We observed among them several finely formed Indian girls of exceeding beauty, dashing about in the water like a troop of happy mermaids. The heat of the sun was so intense, that we ourselves were almost tempted to seek relief from its overpowering influence by plunging precipitately amid the joyous throng of swimmers. But we forbore ! The natives of Para are very cleanly, and indulge in daily ablutions ; nor do they confine their baths to the dusky hours of evening, but may be seen swimming about the public wharfs at all hours of the day. The government has made several feeble efibrts to put a restraint upon these public exposures ; but at the time of our departure all rules and regulations on the subject were totally disregarded by the natives. The city is laid out with considerable taste and regularity ; but the streets are very narrow, and miserably paved with large and uneven stones.

The buildings generally are but of one story in height, and are, with few exceptions, entirely destitute of glass 1* windows ; a kind of latticed blind is substituted, which is so constructed that it affords the person within an opportunity of seeing whatever takes place in the street, without being observed in return. This lattice opens towards the street, and thus affords great facilities to the beaux and gentlemen of gallantry ; who, by stepping under this covering, can have an agreeable tite-d-tite with their fair mistresses, as secretly almost as if they were in a trellised arbor together.

We noticed several strange spectacles as we slowly •walked through the city. Venders of fruit with huge baskets on their heads, filled with luscious oranges, bananas, mangoes, pineapples, and other choice fruits of the tropics ; groups of blacks carrying immense burdens in tlie same manner ; invalids reclining in their hammocks, or ladies riding in their gay-covered palanquins, supported on men's shoulders ; and water-carriers moving along by the side of their heavily-laden horses or mules.

Finally, we met with a party of some thirty or forty blacks, each one of them bearing a large basket of tapioca on his head. They were perfectly naked to their waists, and wore only a pair of pantaloons of very coarse material. They marched on at a slow and measured pace, chanting at the same time a singularly monotonous air, to which they beat time with their hands.

We learned that they were free blacks, and called themselves " Ganhadores." Their business was that of n loading and unloading vessels ; horses and carts being but little used in Para. These bands are unilcr the direction of a leader or captain, who furnishes, on application, any number of men that may be required. In loading vessels, they frequently wade out into the water until their heads and the boxes thereon are alone visible above the surface. They then deposit their several burdens in a species of " lighter," or flat-bottomed boat, which conveys them immediately to the larger vessels lying at anchor in the stream.

Arriving at length at the hospitable mansion of James Campbell, Esq., to whom we had introductory letters, we were invited to make his house our home. The American and Scotch merchants at Para are extremely kind to strangers ; and as there is not a single hotel of any description in the place, one is obliged to throw himself upon the kindness and generosity of the inhabitants ; yet, if he has good letters of introduction, he will have no difficulty in securing a residence, — aye, more, o home.

It was just three o'clock when we sat down to our first dinner in Para. Barley soup was the only thing we saw ; but, this being quickly despatched, roast and boiled beef were brought on the table. The meat w;is tolerably good, but was strongly flavored with garlic, that indispensable article of cookery among the Brazilians and Portuguese.

A tempting assortment of vegetables figured conspicu-

12 PARA.

ously among the side-dishes ; but we confined our attention mostly to the unassuming beans and simple Irish potatoes, probably from an ill-founded prejudice for all edibles which were novel and unknown.

These things having been removed, port wine, oranges, bananas, and a variety of other tropical fruits were substituted, with which we regaled ourselves in a sumptuous manner.

On the conclusion of the meal, wooden toothpicks •were handed round, and a few moments were spent in putting to rights our severely-tasked grinders.

We then discussed the merits of a Brazilian cigar ; the less said, however, about Para cic/ars, the better ; they are afforded at a very low price, and are made in a most miserable manner.

The tobacco, however, is intrinsically of a good quality, and is for the most part brought from the interior, where it grows spontaneously in the forest. It is lightly pressed into circular rolls of about three feet in length, which are closely wound with rattan, to protect them from the moisture of the atmosphere. These rolls contain from two to three pounds each, and are called " molhos de tobacco." Should you desire to conciliate the favor of one of the natives, you cannot adopt a more certain means than of presenting him with one of these "molhos." Shortly after dinner we once more saUied out into the open air. It was a charming afternoon ; and a delicious breeze from the sea fanned us, as we strolled on towards the Roscenia, or country seat of Mr. Smith, the American consul.

We met many fine-looking Indian women, carrying fruit and other vendible commodities on their heads, while children of both sexes, without even " the summer garb of Eden," were running and sporting together in the different streets through which we passed.

Turning a certain corner, we perceived a number of half-naked blacks engaged in transporting a hogshead of wine. It was encircled by several ropes, through the loopholes of which long poles were run. These were supported on the shoulders of negroes, who uttered the same discordant chant as they moved on, which has been noticed before.

We also encountered slaves carrying their mistresses about in a palanquin. This is a kind of curtained cab, and is sometimes ornamented in an exceedingly rich and beautiful manner. It is furnished with two wooden arms in front, and two more behind, by means of which it is transported from place to place by Indians or Negroes. Invalids usually prefer taking the air in a hammock ; it being much more comfortable for such than a palanquin. It is suspended on a pole, sometimes overhung with a drapery of exquisite texture, and is composed of either cotton or fine grass, embroidered with feathers of brilliant hues.

Delighted with the appearance of the many strange spectacles wliich were continually presenting themselves,

14 PARA.

we were hardly conscious of our progress until we had arrived at the country residence of Mr. Smith — a neat little cottage, with a red tiled roof, and pleasant veranda, almost concealed from view by the luxuriance of the surrounding and overhanging foliage.

The consul received us with that cordiality for which he wjis eminently distinguished, and invited us to take a stroll with him through the shaded avenues of his garden. Accepting his kind invitation, we took our first peep at the fruit trees, flowers, and other choice productions of the tropics — it was an epoch in our lives, and one of the happiest hours that we ever spent ! On all sides of us, groups of orange, mango, guava, and lime trees, were drooping with the weight of their green and golden fruit — tall banana shrubs threw out their gigantic leaves, while the mellow fruit hung in immense clusters from their powerful stems — rows of coffee bushes lined the path on either side, teeming with blossoms of snowy whiteness — tempting pineapples, standing alone on solitary stalks, lifted their heads above the bed of curious leaves by which they were surrounded — while flowering oleanders shot up to a prodigious height, and fragrant jessamines filled the atmosphere with delicious perfume !

Seating ourselves beneath the shelter of a vine-covered arbor, blooming with passion-flowers, we regaled our palates with a sumptuous repast of chosen fruits, which the amiable senhora of our host had caused to be provided.

PARA, 1ft

On returning to Mr. Campbell's, where we were to pass the night, we encountered several water-carriers, walking slowly along by the side of their jar-laden mules. They were finely formed — thinly clad, and wore coarse hats, with brims of extraordinary dimensions. The mules were provided with panniers, swung over their backs, in each of which was placed a singularly-shaped earthenware jar, capable of holding several gallons of water. The city of Para is supplied with water from a single spring. This is situated in the suburbs of the town. Here may be seen congregated, at all hours of the day, a motley assemblage of men, women, and children, busily engaged in filling their diflPerent vessels from this never-failing fountain of nature !

A number of blacks bearing long poles on their shoulders, thickly strung with India-rubber shoes, also attracted our attention. These are for the most part manufactured in the interior, and are brought down the river for sale, by the natives. It hsis been estimated that •at least two hundred and fifty thousand pairs of shoes are annually exported from the province, and the number is constantly on the increase.

A few words here respecting the tree itself, and the manufacture of the shoes, may not be out of place.

The tree (Siphilla Elastics) is quite peculiar in its appearance, and sometimes reaches the height of eighty and even a hundred feet. The trunk is perfectly round, rather smooth, and protected by a bark of a light color.

16 PARA.

The leaves grow in clusters of three together, are thin, and of an ovate form, and are from ten to fourteen inches in length. The centre leaf of the cluster is always the longest.

This remarkable tree bears a curious fruit, of the size of a peach, which, although not very palatable, is eagerly sought after by different animals — it is separated into three lobes, which contain each a small black nut. The trees are tapped in the same manner that New Englanders tap maple trees. The trunk having been perforated, a yellowish li<|uid, resembling cream, flows out, which is caught in small clay cups, fastened to the tree. When these become full, their contents are emptied into large earthen jars, in which the liquid is kept until desired for use.

The operation of making the shoes is as simple as it is interesting. Imagine yourself, dear reader, in one of the seringa groves of Brazil. Around you are a number of good-looking natives, of low stature and ohve complexions. All are variously engaged. One is stirring with a long wooden stick the contents of a cauldron, placed over a pile of blazing embers. This is the liquid as it was taken from the rubber tree. Into this a wooden " last," covered with clay, and having a handle, is plunged. A coating of the liquid remains. You will perceive that another native then takes the " last," and holds it in the smoke arising from the ignition of a species of pahn fruit, for the purpose of causing the glutinous substance to assume a dark color. The " last" is then plunged again into the cauldron, and this process is repeated, as in dipping candles, until the coating is of the required thickness. You will, moreover, notice a number of Indian girls (some very pretty) engaged in making various impressions, such as flowers, &c., upon the soft surface of the rubber, by means of their thumb nails, which are especially pared and cultivated for this purpose. After this final operation, the shoes are placed in the sun to harden, and large numbers of them may be seen laid out on mats in exposed situations. The aboriginal name of the rubber is cahuchu, from which the formidable word of caoutchouc is derived. In Para it is styled borracha or seringa !

It was past sunset when we arrived at Mr. Campbell's. Having supped with him, we spent the former part of the evening in playing a sociable game of cards, and then strolled out again, to walk through the city by moonliglit. It was a glorious night ! The air was redolent with the incense of flowers, and no sounds but those of music and mirth broke upon our ears ! returning once more to the house, we ensconced ourselves in our hammocks, and while a crowd of strange and beautiful images were dancing in our minds, we happily fell asleep.

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CHAPTER n.

The Province of Para. — Its vast Extent. — El Dorado, or the City of the Gilded King. — The Discovery of the Amazon by Orellana. — Fighting Women encountered on its Banks. — The Capture of Para by Lord Cochrane. — Present Condition. — Insurrection of 1835.

Before resuming our personal narrative, Ave think it expedient to give our reader a brief account of the past history of the province, including a short notice of the disturbances of 1835. It may with truth be remarked, that there is no country of equal extent which rivak Brazil in point of natural magnificence.

This vast empire is divided into nineteen provinces, of which that of Para is the largest and most productive. This immense territory lies immediately under the Equator, on both sides of the Amazon, and extends from the Atlantic to the borders of Peru. It contains not less than nine hundred thousand square miles ; an area equal almost, In extent, to one half that of the whole United States, including all of its territories. It is entirely covered by a dense forotif. of indescribable grandeur and beauty, abounding in rare spic^ss and valuable woods, plants, and aroraatics, of the most deViglitful odor, and

PARA, 19

bright plumaged birds and singurla animals of endless varieties.

Throughout this wide domain no white adventurer has ever roved ! He may have sailed on the bosom of many of its noble rivers, or wandered along by the margin of its numerous streams, but the interior is to him as yet an untravelled region, whose silence has been undisturbed, save by the howling of animals, the discordant cries of unknown birds, and the yells of savage Indians, since the primeval dawn of creation ! Speaking of the boundless country of the Amazons, Mr. Kidder, in his elaborate work, eloquently remarks :

" No portion of the earth involves a greater degree of physical interest. Its central position upon the equator, ita vast extent, its unlimited resources, its mammoth rivers, and the romance that still lingers in its name and history, are all peculiar. Three hundred years have elapsed since this region was discovered, but down to the present day, two thirds of it remain uncivilized and unexplored !"

For the discovery of the existence of Amazonia, posterity is indebted to Orellana, one of the companions of the cruel and bloodthirsty Gonzalo Pizarro, in his futile search after the imaginary city of " El Dorado," or the " Gilded King."

This was a magnificent city, of golden palaces, and streets paved with precious stones, supposed to exist somewhere in the interior of South America. Exaggerated accounts of it had been given to the credulous Spaniards by the crafty natives, which excited the avariciousness of the former to such a degree, that they did not hesitate to shed the blood of all who denied its existence, believing they did so from an unwillingness to give them any information concerning it.

It was in the year 1544 that Pizarro, with an army of three hundred soldiers and four thousand Indians, left Quito, the capital of the Peruvian empire, for the purpose of discovering this famous city of gold.

Innumerable and arduous were the obstacles they met, and the privations and hardships they were forced to encounter. They were obliged to cut their way through a dense forest, abounding in wild beasts of various kinds, and snakes and reptiles of the most dangerous descriptions— to climb mountains and descend steep precipices — to cross plains submerged with water — to wade through putrefying lagoons and marshes, and to contend with numerous savage tribes of Indians, who surrounded them on all sides.

For many toilsome weeks they journeyed on ! Their provisions becoming exhausted, they were threatened with all the miseries of famine, and were necessitated to make food of their dogs and horses. A great number had died, others were sick, and when at last they reached the banks of the river Napo, hardly more than one tenth of the army remained, and these were almost worn out with their sufferings.

Here Pizano encamped ; and liaving heard reports from the natives of a larger river into which this flowed, he dispatched a vessel under the command of Francisco de Orellana to ascertain this f:\ct, and if possible to procure a fresh supply of provisions.

After having sailed down the river some two or three hundred miles, all idea of returning, on the part of Orollana, was abandoned. He saw that it would be utterly impossible for him to carry any relief to Pizarro and his army, and knew that by prosecuting his journey, and discovering the mighty river, of which they had heard such glowing accounts, he might save the lives, and clothe the names of himself and companions with undying glory !

Stimulated with such inspiring hopes, they continued their voyage down the river. Its banks were lined by a gigantic and beautiful vegetation, whose tall trees cast their long shadows over the water, and protected the voyagers from the overpowering rays of the sun.

At the expiration of eight days, they discovered a small Indian settlement, situated on the banks of the river, which they immediately took possession of in the name of the crown of Castile. The natives were at first exceedingly frightened, and fled away into the woods — acquiring confidence, they afterwards returned, bringing with them fruits and various kinds of provisions, which they oftered to their strange and unaccountable visitors. Orellana havinof remained at this settlement until he had

22 PARA.

built a new vessel, once more resumed his voyage. Many wore the startling adventures which they encountered in saihng down the rapid current of the mighty Amazon. Not the least of these was their meeting with a party of Amazons, or fighting women, who are described by Friar Gasper as being tall in stature, symmetrical in form, and decorated with long and luxuriant tresses of braided hair. This story was doubtless a fable, invented for the purpose of throwing a shade of romance over their wonderful voyage. Certainly no such women now exist on the Amazon, and in all probability never did ! Yet the fiction of the discoverer has given a name to the river, which will long outlive his own !

At the expiration of seven months, Orellana arrived at the ocean. Having landed at a certain island in order to repair his vessels, he sailed direct for Spain. lie was received with great honor by his sovereign, to whom he gave an exaggerated account of his extraordinary voyage, and the important discoveries he had made.

A second expedition was soon fitted out, which, however, was unsuccessful. On account of the multiplicity of small islands in its mouth, they were unable to find the main branch of the river, and were obliged to return without having accomplished anything worthy of remark. Soon after this event Orellana languished and died. Several efforts have been made to restore his name to the river, but in vain. It is destined to be called " The Amazon " for ever.

Tlie intervention of the isl;ind of Marojo in the mouth of the Amazon constitutes two great branches, the southern one of which has been termed "The Para River." On this the city is situated, near its junction with the Tocantino. The city h;is about fifteen thousand inhabitants, incUiding blacks and Indians. It was founded by Francisco Caldeira in 1616, and was designated as "Tlie City of St. Mary of Bethlehem,"— a name which it retains to the present day in some of the pubhc papers and documents. Its exact position is in latitude 1° 28' south, and longitude 48° 28' west. The Portuguese language is the one generally spoken.

Previous to the revolution of 1823, Para was subject to the authority of Portugal. It was then taken by Lord Cochrane, and compelled to swear allegiance to Don Pedro 11. This object having been accomplished by stratagem, the people were very boisterous, and could not be quelled, except by severe and sanguinary measures. Several of the mo1>ringleader3 were shot, and two hundred and fifty others were taken prisoners. It was found necessary to place these in the hold of a small vessel lying in the harbor, the hatches of which were guarded by fifteen Brazilian soldiers. The following graphic description of this occurrence is given by Mr. Kidder in his work on Brazil, wlio derived it from creditable Portuguese autlioritv : — '' Crowded until almost unable to breathe, and suffering alike from hunger and thirst, the poor wretches attempted to force their way on deck, but were repulsed by the guard, who, after firing upon them, and fastening down the hatchway, drew a piece of ordnance across it, and effectually debarred all egress. The stifling sensation caused by this exclusion of air drove the suffering crowd to utter madness, and many are said to have lacerated and mangled each other in the most horrible manner. Suffocation, with all its agonies, succeeded. The aged and the young, the strong and feeble, the assailant and his antagonist, all sank down exhausted, in the agonies of death. In the hope of alleviating their sufferings, a stream of water was at length let into the hold, and towards morning the tumult abated ; but from a cause which had not been anticipated. Of all the two hundred and fifty-three, four only were found alive, who had escaped destruction by concealing themselves behind a water-butt."

All that can be said in extenuation of this deplorable catastrophe is, that it proceeded more from carelessness and gross ignorance than from deliberation and design.

The present condition of Para is exceedingly auspicious. Peace and quiet now prevail throughout its extensive wilds, undisturbed by the sounds of warfare or the shouts of infuriated savages. Nature seems to have lavished upon this favored province her choicest gifts, her most alluring charms. Here bloom the gayest flowers, distilling their fragrance on the air around. Here flourish the loftiest trees, whose feathery branches wave in the softest breeze. Where can be found more picturesque and romantic scenery, or a purer and softer atmosphere? Her mammoth rivers, flowing rapidly from the lofty mountains in which their childhood was nurtured, wander through the recesses of a forest of unrivalled grandeur, distributing their fertilizing influence on every side. No sounds now break their pervading stillness save the voices of occasional wanderers, or the notes of happy birds.