The Orkneys and Shetland; their past and present state

Front matter

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Preface

Whilst writing a series of papers, which, during the years 1878, 79, and 80, appeared in the columns of The Field under the title of Rambling and Angling Notes from Shetland, I was struck by the fact, that there was no book in existence that brought the past and present condition of that northern group before the reader. The works of Drs. Edmonston and Hibbert, admirable as both were at the time they were published, are not only, at the present day, out of date, but also out of print. Such being the case I at first thought of compiling a book on Shetland alone ; however, on going more fully into the matter I found that any historical description of Shetland must constantly refer to the Orkneys, and that, in addition, the southern group required writing up to date nearly as much as the northern one. I therefore spent several months in the autumn of 1880 amongst the different islands of the Orcadian group, and embodied the results of my rambles in some papers which, under the title of Orcadian Jottings, appeared in the columns of The Field in the course of the following year.

Whilst wandering over Shetland I several times fell in with my old friend Mr. Peach, of the Scottish Geological

130158 vi PREFACE.

Survey, and his colleague Mr. Home, who, for many years, spent their yearly vacations in examining into the much vexed (till settled by them) question as to the glaciation of Shetland, the Orkneys, and the North of Scotland. They kindly promised, if ever I went to press, to aid me by writing the chapters on the geology of these northern isles, a promise which they have most admirably kept, as the reader himself can see.

To Mr. Irvine Fortescue, the Yr. of Kingcausie and Swanbister, and Mr, White, I am indebted for the chapters on the Flora of the Orkneys and Shetland respectively ; Dr. Anderson, the Curator of the National Museum of Scotland and editor of the translation of the Orkneyinga Saga, was kind enough to read over in MS. the chapters on the Pictish and Norse Periods ; and Sir Henry E. L. Dryden, Bart., Flonorary Member of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, kindly perused the chapter on St. Magnus' Cathedral (Chapter XVin.), checked the various architectural descriptions throughout the book, and also kindly placed the collection of water-colour drawings and sketches he had made, during the many visits he had paid to the Orkneys and Shetland, at my disposal for reproduction. I have also to thank Ivlr. James Walls Cursiter, F.S.A.S., Messrs. Christopher and Andrew Sandison, of Lerwick, Mr. Lewis, F. U. Garriock, of Berry, The Rev. George Gibson, M.A., the English Chaplain at Dieppe, and many other gentlemen in Shetland, the Orkneys, and elsewhere for information and assistance kindly rendered or for hospitality shown me when wandering over the islands. To the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland I am indebted for the permission to reproduce such of the woodcuts as have already appeared in the Proceedings of the Society ; to Herr Cammermeyer,

PREFACE, vii

of Christiania, for permission to copy on a reduced scale the engraving of the Viking Ship from Gokstad ; to the proprietors of Tlie Illustrated Loudon Neius, for kindly permitting me to copy A Westerly Gale in the Orkneys, Roray Head, Hoy, and to Mr. Samuel Read the artist for putting the finishing touches to the block ; to Mr. Thomas S. Peace, of Kirkwall, for the sketch of the Gentlemen's Ha', Westray ; and to Mr. J. T. Irvine, F.S.A.S., for the etching of Muness Castle, Unst. I should also state that, in addition to what has already appeared in the columns of The Field, a good deal of the subject-matter of Chapter XII. The Fisherman-Crofter Ashore, appeared last year in Tlie Dundee Advertiser.

Except where, as before mentioned. I am indebted to Messrs. Peach, Home, Fortescue, and White, for the chapters on the Geology and the Flora, and to Dr. Anderson and Sir Henry Dr3^den, for looking over and checking portions of the MS., I alone am responsible for any opinions expressed or statements made, and none of the gentlemen who have so kindly aided me must, in any way, be held liable for any of the views I have put forth. That the book in many respects is not what I should have wished it to have been, I am painfully aware, as owing to circumstances out of my own control, the greater portion had to be drafted, so to speak, when out of reach of any reference library, and a considerable portion has, in consequence, practically had to be rewritten as the sheets were passing through the press, and to this cause the reader must kindly attribute any shortcomings, inaccuracies, or discrepancies he may discover.

John R. Tudor.

London, 1883.

Woollen Hood, 32 inches long, 17 mches broad, and with a fringe of two-ply cord, 35 inches ,n depth, found in the mo^s in St. Andrew's Par.sh, on the Mainland of the Orkneys. 'Jo/ace Table of Contents.

Contents

PACK

INTRODUCTION xxxi — xxxiii

Chapter I. The Pictish Or Prehistoric Period

Early Notices of the Groups — Christianity of the Celtic Population — • Description of the Bressay and Papil Tombstones — Description of the Brochs — List of Brochs — Age of Brochs — Brochs Celtic not Norse — Picts Houses — Stone Circles — Standing Stones — Burial Mounds.

CHAPTER .II.

THE NORSE PERIOD.

Land Tenure of the Norsemen — The Althing — Local or Parochial Things — Sigurd becomes first Jarl — Torf Einar slays Halfdan Halegg — Conversion of Sigurd the Stout — Battle of Clontarf — Gray's Fatal Sisters Pages 17 — 29

CHAPTER III. THE NORSE PERIOD — THE NORSE JARLS (continuea)

Yht Great Jarl Thorfinn — Sir Edmund Head's Verses describing Thorfinn's interview with King Magnus — Paul and Erlend joint Jarls — Deposed by Magnus Barelegs — Battleof the Mcnai Straits — Hakon and Magnus

CONTENTS.

become Jarls — Death of Jarl Magnus — Hakon visits the Holy Land — Harald SlettmaH dies from poisoned garment and succeeded in the Jarldom by his brother Paul — Early Life of Kali Kol's son, is created Jarl, and renamed Rognvald — Futile attempts on the Orkneys.

CHAPTER IV. THE NORSE PERIOD — THE NORSE JARI.S {cflntinucd)

Swein Asleif's son, slays Swein Briostreip at Orphir — ^Jarl Rognvald lands in Westray — Kidnapping of Jarl Paul — Landing of Harald Maddad's son — Burning of Frakork — Siege of Lambaborg — Rognvald and Harald visit Norway — Jorsalafaring — Erlend Harald's son becomes Jarl and slain — Rognvald murdered by Thorbiorn Klerk — Swein slain in Dublin — Mutilation of Bishop Jon — -Burning of Bishop Adam — Jon the last of the Norse Jarls . Pages 41 — 53

CHAPTER V. THE NORSE PERIOD {continued)

The Earldom in the Angfts, Stratherne, and St. Clair Lines.

llakon Hakon's son ; Defeat at Largs, and Death in Kirkwall — Maid of Norway— False Maid of Norway — Earldom in the Stratherne Line — Earldom in the St. Clair Line ; Slaughter of Malise Sperra — Raids of the Lewismen — Marriage of Margaret, daughter of Christian the First of Denmark, to James the Third Pages 54 — 60

CHAPTER VL

THE ORKNEYS UNDER SCOTTISH AND BRITISH RULE.

The Orkneys under Scottish and British Rule — State on Transfer from Denmark — Earldom annexed to Scottish Crown and Farmed out — Flodden, Battle of — Summerdale, Battle of — ^James the Fifth in Kirkwall— Reid, Robert Bishop — Lord Robert Stewart obtains Tacks — Bothwell, James Earl of, marries Mary, flies to Norway, and dies there — Lord Robert accused of Oppression, created Earl of Orkney and dies — Earl Patrick's Career — Siege of Kirkwall Castle — Bishop Graham renounces Episcopacy — Montrose's Expedition — Cromwellian Troops iu the Islands Pjges 61 — 76

COXTENTS. xi

.CHAPTER VII.

THE ORKNEYS UNDER SCOTTISH AND BRITISH RULE {continued).

Ecclesiastical.

Ministers eiected by General Assembly — Bishops Honeyman and Mackenzie— Mode of Worship under Episcopacy — Presbyterianism Established— Survival of Roman Catholic Customs and Beliefs — Mein of Cross and Burness — Sands of Birsay, charged with Sheep-stealing^ — Blaw of Westray, the Cat-killer — Song from Jacobite Relics — Concordat betvFeen Ministers and Justices — Leading Horses through and tethering them in Cathedral — Nisbet of Firth, banished to Plantations for Adultery — Lyell of Lady Parish — Liddell of Orphir — Anti- Patronage Movement — Commencement of the United Presbyterian Church in Islands — Free Church — Bishopric Estates sold.

CHAPTER VIII.

THE ORKNEYS UNDER SCOTTISH AND BRITISH RULE (continued).

The Old Country Acts.

Islands under Norse Laws till 1611 — Country Acts: Stock — Swine — Sheep — Butchers — Publicans — Forestalling — Restrictions on Sale of Produce — Servants — Parochial /^j-jt' — Baihes . . . Pages "if) — 94

CHAPTER IX.

THE ORKNEYS UNDER SCOTTISH AND BRITISH RULE {cOJltinued).

Agriculture at the coin/neiueiiient of the Century, Superstitions, &^r.

Backward state of Agriculture, causes of — Superstitions — Witchcraft Trials ; Jonet Dever, Katherine Bigland, Elspeth Reoch, Marabel Couper, Anie Tailzeour, Marion Richart, Katherine Craigie, and Jonet Reid — General Superstitious Beliefs and Customs — Hudson's Bay Company — The FiAeries — Linen Manufacture — Straw Plaiting — Kelp Trade — Agriculture at the Present Day Pages 95 — loS

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.

SHETLAND UNDER SCOTTISH AND BRITISH RULE.

lutercourse with Norway up to Late Date — Will of Sir David Synclar — Respite of Edward Sinclare — How Skat and Rents Paid — Weights and Measures — Oppressions of Laurence Bruce — Earl Patrick petitioned against — Trial of the Faws — Houses at Lerwick ordered to be Demolished — Visits of Fleets to Bressay Sound— Tlie Kise and Fall of " The Great Fishoy" ; Early History of, Laws, Regulations, Herring Time-Table, Dutch Jack Ashore, Decline of Great Fishery — Shetland Herring Fishery Pages 109 — 128

CHAPTER XL

SHETLAND UNDER SCOTTISH AND BRITISH RULE {continued).

The Ling or Haaf; and Cod, Smack, or Faroe Fishings.

Formerly in the hands of German Merchants — Proprietors compelled to take up — Description of Boats — Norse Words still in Use — Haaf Stations — How Fishing carried on — Method of Curing Fish — Mode of Payment — Opposition to Large Boats — Boats Molested by Whales, &c. — The Cod, Smack, or Faroe Fishery — History of — How Conducted — Loss of Smacks — Shetlanders m Merchant Service — Naval Reserve

CHAPTER XIL

SHETLAND UNDER SCOTTISH AND BRITISH RULE {continued].

The Fisherman- Crofter Ashore.

Causes retarding Agricultural Improvement — Holdings or Crofts- — Old Wooden Plough described— Tillage of Crofts — Shetland Water Mill — Crops Grown — Scatholds— Shetland Cattle — Sheep — Ponies — Swine — Geese— Crofter's Cottage — Mode of Life — Kelp Making— Hosiery — Shetland Tweed or " Claith " Pages \/ifi—\(iO

CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTER XIII.

SHETLAND UNDER SCOTTISH AND BRITISH RULE {continued).

General Characteristics of the Shetlanders, Folk lore, &^c.

Physical and mental characteristics — Report to Gifford — Morale — Religion — " Convulsion Fits " — Drinking very prevalent in Former Years — Superstitious Beliefs and Customs ; concerning Boats, Fishing, the Rescue of Drowning Persons, Aquatic Monsters, Freemasonry, King's Evil, Childbirth, and "Cutting abiin da Breath " — Charms ; Toothache, Sprains, Burns, Ringworm, and Sparrows — Hair- eel —Mice — Pilgrimages — Counting — Small-pox — Funerals — Weddings — Love for Old Rock — General Summary of Social State — Suggestions.

Pages i6i — 179

CHAPTER XIV.

THE GEOLOGY OF THE ORKNEYS.

0/ the Geological Surz'ey of Scotla?id.

Crystalline Rocks — Lower Old Red Sandstone, Characteristics of — General Arrangement of Strata — Westray — Eday — Sanday — Shapinsay — Rousay — North Coast of Hoy — Mainland — Cava — Fara — Flotta — South Ronaldsay — Burray — Organic Remains — Upper Old Red Sandstone of Hoy— Volcanic Rocks — History of the Old Red Sandstone in the Orkneys — Basalt, Dykes of — Glaciation, Double System of — Shelly Boulder Clay — Moraines — Savil Boulder — Raised Beaches, none in the Orkneys Pages 180 — 194

CHAPTER XV.

THE ORKNEYS.

Tipyn 0 Bob Pdh.

General Bird's-eye View of the Islands — Tides — Swelkie, Bore of Papa — Gales — Climate — Representation — Population and Rental — Old Families — Norse Place-names and Patronymics, Dialect, &c. — Tee Names — Mammalia — Ornithology Pages 195 — 218

CONTEN'TS.

CHAPTER XVI.

NOTES ON THE FLORA OF THE ORKNEYS.

BY WILLIAM IRVINE FORTESCUE.

General Description of — List of Rare Plants .... Pages 219 — 222

CHAPTER XVII.

THE ORKNEYS — KIRKWALL AND THE EAST MAINLAND.

Routes to the Orkneys — Charters of the Borough — General Description — Church of St. Ola — Scene of the Slaughter of Captain Moodie — Town Hall, How Erected, &c. — Market Cross — Annual Game of Football on New Year's Day Pages 223 — 234

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE ORKNEYS — KIRK^VALL AND THE EAST MAINLAND {continued).

The Cathedral Church dedicated to St. Magytus.

General Description of — Dimensions of Kirkwall and other Cathedrals — Neale's Opinion- — Dryden as to Traditionary History — Choir, present condition — East Window — Doorways at West End and South Transept— Masons' Marks — Tombstones, niort brod, S:c. — Alms' Dishes — Tower — Destruction of Steeple — Bells .... Pages 235 — 243

CHAPTER XIX.

THE ORKNEYS — KIRKWALL AND THE EAST MAINLAND {continued).

Historical Incidents connected with the Cathedral Church dedicated to St.

Magnus.

Removal of the Relics of the Saint from St. Ola's to Cathedral — Interments of Jarl Rognvald, Bishop William, and Hakon Hakon's son — Visit of James V. to Kirkwall — Bishop Reid ; Founds Cathedral Chapter Death at Dieppe, Monument to — Relics of Saint Magnus — Ministers Feuing away the Teinds, &c. — Death of Eai-1 Robert — Attempted

CONTENTS. XV

Demolition of Cathedral by Earl of Caithness — Cathedral Register commences — " Bigging" of Seats — Act against Promiscuous Bathing — Solemn League and Covenant — Tombstones torn up by Lord Morti m with Sanction of Session — Bishop William Tulloch's Tomb broken open by CromwelHans — Brawl between Mudie the Yr. of Melsetter and Douglas the Yr. of Spynie — Administration of the Sacrament — The Town-guard — Scene between Baikie and Wilson — Loutit Leases and Ploughs up Portion of the Churchyard — Principal Gordon's Account of State of Cathedral — Meason's Mortification — Shirreffs Account — Reredos, Bishop's Throne, and Earl's Pew — Tombs of William the Old and the Great Bishop Tulloch Robbed — Petrie's Account — Cathedral fitted up again for Presbyterian Worship — William the Old's remains carted away with the rubbish — Suggested Commemorative Inscription Pages 244 — 265

CHAPTER XX-

THE ORKNEYS — KIRKWALL AND THE EAST MAINLAND [continUc'd ) .

The Bishop's and the EarVs Palaces.

Bishop's Palace, Description of — Earl's Palace, Description of — Banque to the Earl of Sutherland — Trial of Elspeth Reoch. Pages 266 — 273

CHAPTER XXI.

THE ORKNEYS — KIRKWALL AND THE EAST MAINLAND {cofUillUed).

Deej-ness, Holm St. Mary, Shapinsay, Wideford Hill, and Orphir.

Clay Loan, place of Execution — Copin«ay and Corn Holm — Church of Deerness — Sandside — < Uoup of Deerness — Broughof Deerness — Shipwreck of the Croivn and Drowning of Whig Prisoners — Holm St. Mary — Village of — Graemeshall — Shapinsay — Balfour Castle — Ruined Church Dedicated to Sr. Catherine— Ruins on EUer Holm — Wid,ford Hill — Heather and Bees — View from Summit — Chambered Mounds on Wideford Hill and at Quanternes'- — Eirde House at Saveroch — Orphir — Lammas-Fair — Corse— Caldale Coins — ^Broch of Lingrow- Kirbuster Loch — Circular Church Pages 274 — 290 xvi CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXII.

THE ORKNEYS — STROMNESS AND THE WEST MAINLAND.

Firth Oysters — Damisay — Summerdale, Battle of, Tradition concerning — Stromness — Gow the Pirate — George Stewart of the Bounty — Bessy Millie — As'erolepis — Black Craig Pages 291 — 298

CHAPTER XXIII.

THE ORKNEYS — STROMNESS AND THE WEST MAINLAND [continued).

The Lochs of Stenness and Harray ; Maes Hoive ; The Rings of Slenness and Brogar, and the Weem of Skara Brae.

Loch of Sternest — The Bush — Fishes and Aquatic Plants — Loch of Harray — Lythe Fishing — Maes Howe and Runes — Ring of Stenness, Stone of Odin, and Watchstone — Rings of Brogar and Bukan, and Tumuli — Remains'Celtic not Scandinavian — Customs connected with them in last Century — Destructvon of Stone of Odin by Highland Goth — Stones of Via — Weem of Skara Brae — Hole of Row . . Pages 299 — 311

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE ORKNEYS — STROMNESS AND THE WEST MAINLAND {continued}.

Bii'say.

Palace of — Church and Churchyard — Disgraceful state of most Orcadian and Shetlandic Graveyards — Brough of Birsay and the Ruins of the Old Nor.-e Church — Knowe of Saverough — Costa and Bir.'jay Heads — Lochs of Birsay, Hundland, and Swannay . . . Pages 312 — 318

CHAPTER XXV.

THE ORKNEYS — THE SOUTH ISLES.

Hoy and Walls.

Description of — Orcadian Small Boats — The Kaim — Braebrough — Old Man — Wreck of the Albion — The Manse — Dwarfie Stone — Ward Hill — Pulpit in Church — Meadow of the Kaitn — The Kaim — Brae-

CONTENTS. xvii

rough — Old Man — Rackwick — Berriedale — "A far better coo and a far bonnier wife" — Longhope — Garth Head — Gloups of Snelsetter — Mummies of Osmondwall — Melsetter — Lyres — Berry Head — Hoglins and Helliel Waters — Oysters Faoes 319 — 332

chaptp:r XXVI.

THE ORKNEYS — THE SOUTH ISLES {continued).

Flotta, South Konaldsay, and Burray.

Crosses — Marriage Customs — Mammie Scott — South Konaldsay : How to get there — Broch of Hoxa — Standing Stone — Tomison's Academy — Stone in Burwick Church — Old Chapels — Rental of Provestrie — Gloup of Halcro — Ferry to Huna — Burray; East and West Brouhs — Mills and Thirling — Decree against Hand Querns — Finn-men

CHAPTER XXVH.

THE ORKNEYS — THE WESTERN ISLES.

How to reach them — Gainay ; Old Man-ion House of the Craigies — The Hen — Swine Holm — Veira ; Cobbe Row's Castle — Church — Egilsay ; Church of — Scene of Murder of St. Magnus — Rousay ; General Description of — Goukheads — Camp of Jupiter Fring — Westness — Swendro Church — Church on Eynhallow — Paradise Geo — Sinions of Cutclaws — Kiln of Dusty — Stack of the Lobest — Kilns of Brin Never — Loch of Wasbister — Old Chapels — Urn found at Corquoy

CHAPTER XXVin.

THE NORTH ISLES.

Stronsay, Sunday, and North Ronahhay.

Route to — Stronsay ;.V^-\^ Stronsay, Chapels on — Well of Kildin'^uie — Broch at I.amb Head — Geo of Odin — Vat of K rbuster — Story about a Tr'>w — Sanday ; Descrijjti >n of — Runabral^e — Brochs — West Brugh — Helzie Geo — Legend about Holy Cross Parish — Purgatory and Hell — Golf — Wrecks — North Ronaldsay ; Post-boat — Descri|)iion of the Lland — Kelji-making — Old Orkney Sheep — Broch of Burria;i — Mounds — >ail Fluke — Seals Skerry — Alexander Smith — New Zealand xviii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXTX.

THE ORK>JEYS— THE NORTH ISLES [continued).

EJay — Carrick — Earl of Carrick Tried for vSorcery — Torturing Pri?;oners — Roasting an Abbot — How " the landis of Glenluce wes conqueist " — Peat — Red Head — Calf of Eday — Gow the Pirate — John Fea — Bell at Carrick

Westray — Grave Mounds — Farmer Kugi — Parishes and Endowments — Eirde House — Gloup= — Noltland Castle — Gentlemen's Ha' — Noup Head — Lochs of Saintear and Burness — ^ Bloody Tuacks — Highlandman's Hamar — Cross Kirk

Papa Westray — St. Tred wall's Chapel — St. Boniface — Habra Plellyer — Auks and Dundus — Deers' Antlers — Chambered Mound — Great Auk — " I could na afford to lose baith wife and whales the same day"

CHAPTER XXX.

THE GEOLOGY OF SHETLAND.

Rock Formations in Shetland — Distribution of Metamorphic Rocks on the Mainland — Mineralogical Localities in Northmaven — Geological Structure of Unst and Fetlar — Igneous Rocks in the Metamorphic Series — Old Red Sandstone Order of Succession on the East side of the Mainland — Organic Remains — Area of altered Old Red Sandstone West of Weisdale — Representatives in Foula — Contemporaneous Igneous Rocks — Intrusive Igneous Rocks — Double System of Glaciation — Direction of Ice Markings — Boulder Clay — Moraine Deposits — Explanation of the Glacial Phenomena of the Orkneys and Shetland — Rock-basins — Origin of Voes — Peat — Absence of Raised Beaches

Pages 384 — 40S

CHAPTER XXXI.

SHETLAND.

Central, TopographkaU and Statistical with N'otes on Afammah and Birds.

Contrast to the Orkneys — Divisions for Descriptive Purposes — Climate — Population — Commissioners of Supply — Surnames — Mammals — Whales, Divi-ion of— Ornithology Pages /^og— ^21

CONTENTS.

chaptp:r XXXII.

Notes on the Flora of Shetland by Peter White, L.K.C.S.E.

Pages 422 — j\

CHAPTER XXXIII.

S H E T L A N D — F AIR ISLE.

As to Landing &c. — Fair Isle a Mistake — General Description — Stewarts of Erugh — Wreck of El Gran Grifon — Melvill's Account — Description of Vessel, Crew, &c. — Contract as to Raising Guns — Chairs and Cup — Parish and Inhabitants — Fair Isle Skiffs — Hosiery — Wreck of the Duncan — Malcolm's Head — Wreck of the Carl Constantine — Holes of Reeva — ^View from Ward Hill — Kirn of the Skroo — Sheep Craig — Wreck of the Lessing — Roar of Tide at Night — Puffins and Northern Lights Pages 429 — 444

CHAPTER XXXIV.

SHETLAND — LERWICK.

Sumhurgh Roost — The Bay of Lerwick on a Midsummer's Night — Want of a Pier — Hotels and Lodging-houses — Description of town — Whalers and Dutch Sailors — Fort Charlotte — New Town Hall — Town Arms — ('hurches — The Knali — Regatta Pages 445 — 453

CHAPTER XXXV.

SHETLAND — LERWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

Br essay and Ness.

Ward Hill of Bressay — Pony Farm — Church at Culbinsbrough — Chapef on Noss — Holmof Noss — Noup of Noss — Kirkabister Ness — Orkneyman's

Cave — Giant's Leg Pages 454 — 459

fi 2

XX CONTENrS.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

SHETLANn — LERWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD [coniiniiect).

To Scalloway and Back,

Broch of Click-em-in — Village of Sound — Sandy Loch — Mile-posts — Flossy Loch — Scord of Scalloway — Scalloway Castle — Pier of Blackness — Westshoi'e — Standing Stone at Asta — Holm on Tingwall Loch and Althing — ^Old Tingwall Church — The Rev. John Turnbull — View from Churchyard — Veensgarth — Windy Grind — Stony Hill — Shetland Knitters Pages 460 — ^470

CHAPTER XXXVH.

SHETLAND, CUNNINGSBURGH, MAISES, AND DUNROSSNESS.

Gulber Wick — Broch of Burland — Loch of Brindister — East Quarff — Place for Sea-trout — Laxdale Burn — Cunningsburgh Church — Ogham and Rune-Inscribed Stones — David Lesley to do Penance — Reputation for Inhospitality — Shetland Jack Shepherd — Primroses and Larks — Mails Voe — Broch of Mousa — Otters and Seals — Driving in Shetland — Chaimer Wick — Leven Wick — Woman Delivered of Tobacco — Yell Smuggling story — Boddam — Abundance of Kirks — Links of Sumburgh -and Quendale — Holm-gang — Garth Ness — Fitful Head — St. Ninian's Isle — Sumburgh Head and Jarlshof — Lochs of Spiggie and Brow — Drumming of the Snipe Pages 471 — 488

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

SHETLAND — WALLS AND THE WEST MAINLAND.

Wormidale Hill — Airv House, Iluxter — Loch of Strom — Weisdale Voe, Burn, and Hill — Our Lady's Kirk — View from Scord of Weisdale — Reawick — Safesta, Underground Gallery — Giant's Grave — Walls — Accommodation — Vaila — Broch of Culswick — Churchyard — Church — Closing of old path — Walk to Melby — Voes, Lochs, and Trout

CONTENTS. xxi

CHAPTER XXXIX.

SHETLAND — WALLS AND THE WEST MAINLAND (continued).

Papa Sloiir.

General Appearance of the Lland — Clingarie Geo. Caves — Hamna Voe — Francie's Hole — Christie's Hole — Lyra Skeriy — Stack of Snolda — Ve Skeiries — Horn of Papa — Hole of Bordie — Brei Holm — Fran Stack — Housa Voe — Church — Leprosy — Population — Sword Dance — Story of Edwin M Pages 497 — 508

CHAPTER XL.

SHETLAND — THE AVEST MAINLAND.

Ftntla.

How to get there — Voyage of Mad Woman — Appearance of Island — Inhabitants— Strom Ness — Friar Stacks — Kittiwake Hall — North Banks — Low's Account — The Kaim — Nebbefield — Wester Hsevdi — Mucklebergand Uffshins — Wreck of the Ceres — The Noup — Rooeskie Cliffs — Hamnafield — Lum of Liorafield — The Sneug — Bonxies or Great Skuas — View from Wester Hievdi — The Pinnacle of the Kaim — Simon's Head — Richardson's Skuas or Scoutie Allans — Dye and Tonic — Putting the Stone Pa^es 509 — 524

CHAPTER XLI.

SHETLAND — NESTINt;, LUNNASTING, AND DELTING ; OR. THE EAST MAINLAND.

Sail round to Brae — Loch of Strand and Lax Firth — Loch of Girlsta — Sandwater Inn — The Lang Kaim — Dourye Laxa Burn — Lunna — Voe — Mossbank — " How are Oranges in Delting" — Olna Firth — Brae — Muckle Rooe Pages 525 — 529 xxii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XLII.

SHETLAND — NORTHMAVEN.

Mavis Grind — Parish described — Isle of Egilsay — Magnusetter Voe and Burn — Vaadle of Sullam — Punds Water — Eela Water — Hillswick — The Drongs — Heads of Grocken — Stenness — Cross Kirk — Calder's Geo — Vilhans of Ure — Holes of Scraada — Grind of the Navir — Giant's Grave — Hamna Voe and Sea Trout — Rooeness Hill from Asta — Dutchman's Knowe — Ura Firth — Ollaberry — Lochend — Giant's Maisie, Garden, and Grave — Rooeness Hill — Banks over Lang Ayre — Birka Water and Rooer Water — North Rooe and Feideland — Uya — Rooer Burn, Rooer Water, Lochs of Huxter and Flugarth, &c.

CHAPTER XLIH.

SHETLAND — THE NORTH ISLES.

IVJialsay, The Out Skerries, Yell, and Fetlar.

Luggie's Knowe — Unicorn Reef — Catfirth Voe — Frau Stack — Noup of Nesting — Slaughter of " Colvile Persoun of Urquhart " — Whalsay ; Symbister — Wreck oilsslaffa — The Out Skerries ; Description of Group — " The Skerry Fight" — Wreck of the Carmelan — Crops and Fuel — Yell; Description of Island — Sea Trout — Church at Papil — Gloup Voe — Yell ^'arns — Fetlar ; Communication with — Lambhoga — Manse and Loch of Tresta — Magnetite — Old Chapels — Funzie to Strandburgh Ness — Wreck of the Vandela — View from Vord Hill — Fetlar Ponies — Submarine Earthquake Pages 542 — 556

CHAPTER XLIV.

SHETLAND — THE NORTH ISLES {continued).

Unst.

Description of — The Edmondston Family — Blot's account of his stay at Buness — Press-gang — Balta Sound and Island — St. Sunnifa's Chapel — Colvidale Chapel — Sandwick — Muness Castle — Characteristics of Noltland, Scalloway, and Muness Castles — Door Knocker from Muness

COKTENTS. xxiii

— Standing Stone and Grave Mounds — Chapel on Uya — Lochs of Belmont and Stoural — Broch of Snaburgh — The Blue Mull — Wick and Farm of Lund — Loch of Watley — Stone Circles on Crucifield — Haraldswick — Cro^s Kirk, Norvvick — Saxe's Kettle — Saxevord — The Reverend John Ingram — Loch Cliff — Herman Ness — Mathevvson and the Eagle — Buness Ha and Hols Hellier — The Muckle Flugga Lighthouse— Finis Pages 557- — 578

APPENDICES.

APPENDIX A.

The Long-Ships of The Early Viking Period .... Pages 579 — 581

APPENDIX B.

Renunciatijn by George Graham, Bishop of Orkney, of Episcopacy

Pages 5S1 — 582

APPENDIX C.

Declaration of the Ministers of the Presbytery of Orkney Pages 583 — 584

APPENDIX D I.

" A Letter from a Gentleman in Orkney " Pages ^%:\ — 590

"Articles of Agreement Betwixt the Honourable Justices of Peace for Orkney and the Presbytery of Kn^kwall ; mutually with consent gone into "

Pages S9^—S')Z

The Supplication of James Flett of Bea Pages S9\ — 55^5

CONTENTS.

APPENDIX E I.

Agricultural Holdings in Caithness, the Orkneys, and Shetland, from the Official Returns — Table i. Number of Holdings in each Class — Table 2. Total Acreage of each Class of Holdings — Table 3. Analysis of Tables l and 2, showing Average Number of Acres in each Class — Table 4. Total Area and Acreage under each kind of Crop, Fallow, and Grass — Table 5. Number of Live Stock . . Pages 596 — 598

APPENDIX E 2.

Stock and Egg Exports from Orkney Pages 599 — 601

APPENDIX F.

No. I. Acciu'it. Number of Barrels of Herrings ciught in the Orkneys and Shetland, and their Classification for Years 1877- 1881 — ^O- 2. Account. Showing Number of Smacks and quantity of Cod, Ling, and Hake caught in them or in Open Boats — No. 3. Account. Showing the totil quantity of Cod, Ling, and Hake exported from the Orkneys and Shetland — No. 4. Account. Showing number and tonnage of Boats of the Fifst, Second, and Third Classes for Years 1877-81 Registered in the Orkneys and Shetland — No. 5. Account. Showing number of Fishermen and Boys, of Fish-curers, Coopers, and other persons connected with the Fisheries in the Orkneys and Shetland ; and the Estimated Value of the Boats, Nets, and Lines for the Years 1877- 1881 — No. 6. Account. Show^ing the tonnage of vessels and number of men employed in importing Stave-wood and Hoops or Salt for the Fi-.hei-ies ; carrying Herrings or White Fi^h Coastwise ; and exporting them Abroad from the Orkneys and Shetland for the Years 1877-1881