Observations on professions, literature, manners, and emigration, in the United States and Canada : made during a residence there in 1832

Book I. United States

Page

Preface . ; lii

Chapter I

Reasons for Emigrating — The Voyage, and First View of New York — Impressions on Landing, and High Price of Lodgings and Fuel — Miscellaneous Particulars, upon Delivery of Letters of Introduction — Remarks on the Episcopal Church and Clergy in the United States

— American Marriage 1

Chapter II

Sanscrit Printing — Poverty of Clergy — Influence of Clergy — Changes in Professions — Emoluments of Clergy — State of Learning — Prospects of English Clergymen in the States — Character of American Clergy — Methodist

Bigotry.. 25

Chapter III

Reasons for Abandoning the Idea of Teaching the Eastern Languages in the United States — Day Schools — Insubordination of Pupils — Anecdote of the Blind Teacher — Of an Irish Classical Teacher — Sad Tale of a Village Schoolmaster — American Insensibility — Farther Opinions concerning American Schools 46

Chapter IV

. Story of a Stranger and his Travels — Of his Book, and his Teaching Experience — Case of a Young Schoolmaster from England— His Sanguine Hopes, and his Disappointments— The New York Proprietory School — Low State of Greek Teaching in» New York — Distaste for

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CONTENTS.

Improvements in the United States, that do not Promise Immediate Return in Money — Determination to Proceed to Boston. 64

^CHAPTER V.

Journey to Boston— Conversation with a Man of Letters there — Visit to the State House — To the University of Cambridge — The Dock -yard — Specimens of American Learning — Boston Evening Part}’^ — Prejudices in America against the English Aristocracy, and General Unfairness of Opinion there concerning England.. 88

Chapter VI

Return to New York— Resolution to Proceed to Canada — Retrospective Incidents — Story of an American Merchant— Professions in the States, as described by an Englishman — American Superiority — Our Removal to Canada Predicted— Custom-House Dues — Effect of Captain Hall’s Travels — Visiting on New Years’ Day —Washington’s Birthday — Miscellaneous Observations 111

Chapter VII

Visit to the Passaic Falls — Conversations on English Reform— On the Condition and Disappointments of English Emigrants in the United States— Description of the Falls — The Proprietor — American and English Decorum— An English Clergyman — Miscellaneous Remarks.... 148

Chapter VIII

Democracy — Brutal Conduct of Americans towards such as Speak Lightly of their Government— May-Day in New York — Silence and Haste at Meals — Vanity and Illiberality — Americans Fear the Reproach of being Descendants of Felons — Change of Surnames — Frequent Fires — Value of Ground Lots — American Fruits — Servitude — Complaints of Emigrants — American Dispatch — Juvenile Delinquents — W ork-House — Outraged Indians — ^Boundary Line between the United States and Canada... 170

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CHAPTER IX. Page

Journey to Niagara — Accident in a Steani-Boat — Albany — American Travelling — Mode of Location— Inns — Beautiful Scenery — Roads — Two Female Passengers — Methodist Preachers — Ancient Banks of Lake Ontario — Niagara Falls — An Eccentric English Gentleman precipitated down the Cataract — a Solitary Female .... 190

Chapter I

Arrival in Canada — Irish Deserter from the American Fort — Reception in Canada — Called on the Governor of Y"ork — On the Archdeacon — Journey to Newmarket — Want of Clergy — An Officer — A Deputation — Insurrection— Mode of Judging among Uninformed Men — Demagogues and Republicans — Journey to Montreal and Quebec — Return to New York. 205

Chapter II

Second Journey to Canada — Salt Works at Syracuse — Voyage over Lake Ontario — A brow-beaten Irishman — Fare on the Lake— Arrival in York — Lodgings — Fellow Lodgers — New Church — Market-house — Parliament Houses — Kindness of the Archdeacon — Our Parsonage — Kindness of Parishioners — Mode of Living — Landlady— Yankee Impostures 250

Chapter III

Cholera — Our Preservation — Its Prevalence in the States — In Canada — Canadian Philanthropy — Preventives of Cholera — Effect of Forest Rambles — Remedies for Cholera— Its Infectious Nature — Cases of Cholera — Death of a Medical Gentleman — Of a Young Lady .... 274

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Page

Chapter IV

Desire for Ministers — Canadians fitted for Clerical Orders — College and University — Bishop of Quebec — Clergy and Congregations — Funeral — Prospects of Clergy — Methodists — A Reformed Presbyterian — Roman Catholics — Presbyterians — Shaking Quakers — Medical Profession — Education— Definition of Comfort 307

Chapter V

Emigration — Farming-Forest Trees — Fertility of Canada— Its Inducement for American Democrats — Liberality of Government — Canada better for Englishmen than the United States — Distress of Emigrants — Advantages of Emigration — Who ought not to go — Price of Labour — Emigrant’s Fondness for Canada 343

Chapter VI

Farming — Gardens and Orchards — Cheap Government — Badness of Roads — Price of Various Articles — Fuel — Negroes — American Improvement — A Machine — Canadian Improvement — Thunder-Storm — Temperance Societies— Character of Canadians— Canadian Houses — Canada Company— Emigration ought to be Encouraged 368

Chapter VII

Clerical Emigrants — A German Missionary — Removal to the Falls — A projected City— Law-suit — Republican Revenge — The Indians — Spread of Christianity — Character of the English Emigrants — Custom-house Officers Americas Integrity — A Michigan Lady — Buff^o — American Judgment of Mrs. Trollope — Episcopal Synod of America— Political Absorption . . Church of England and America — Return to England 401

Preface

The Author of this volume had prepared materials for a much larger work than he here ventures to offer to the public.

While in Canada, and after most of his observations had been written, the Author read Mrs. Trollope’s well known publication, and found it necessary, in consequence, either to abridge his plan, or to repeat what that lady had already said in a very popular and attractive style. On his return to England, Mr. Stuart’s book next appeared : this also he perused, with a view that nothing contained in it might by him be needlessly repeated. He flatters himself, therefore, that what he has retained and given in the following pages, belongs pretty exclusively to his own opportunities and his subjects, and that those

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who have read the above works may yet peruse his with some advantage.

Sensible, however, that the period which he spent in the United States and Canada was too short to allow of such maturity to his observations, as might make them of value in the eyes of the judicious, the Author has preferred giving what he has collected in the form of conversations on the several points of his inquiries, with known or named individuals, wdiose nativity to the Transatlantic soil, or long residence in the country, may entitle their statements and opinions to respect. His great aim has been authenticity, as well as that degree of novelty in respect to subject, which maybe included in the nature of his professional inquiries.

The following observations, and much more, were originally conveyed in a series of letters to a friend, who deemed them of sufficient importance for publication, but with whose name the Author is not at liberty to grace his pages.

Clapharrij May 1833.

BOOK I.

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Chapter I. Reasons For Emigrating The Voyage, And First View

OF NEW YORK IMPRESSIONS ON LANDING, AND HIGH

PRICE OF LODGINGS AND FUEL— SICKNESS MISCELLA-

NEOUS PARTICULARS, UPON DELIVERY OF LETTERS OF IN- TRODUCTION REMARKS ON THE EPISCOPAL CHURCH AND

CLERGY IN THE UNITED STATES AMERICAN MARRIAGE.

At the latter end of 1831, I left England for America, with a view to adopting the United States as my future country. My reasons for taking this step were similar to those of most emigrants. Dissatisfaction with the government and the state of things in my own country, by which I had, as I concluded, been hitherto kept back in

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my fortune, and disappointed in my aims, together with a high admiration of the American Republic, formed the foundation of my reasons for emigrating.

This admiration had been conveyed to me, in some measure, as an hereditary opinion, and was made almost sacred by parental authority. For many years before his death, my father had cherished the intention of becoming himself an American. Whenever, therefore, any real or fancied evil oppressed me, my imagination and my hopes took refuge among the free wilds and rising communities of the great republic.

Educated for the church, but destitute of interest or patronage, I remained a mere teacher at home, with little to encourage my ambition even in that laborious profession ; although, in addition to competent classical acquirements, I had made myself master of several of the languages of the East, which are but seldom studied in England. In the United States, these advantages would, I anticipated, either be the means of introducing me into the Episcopal church, or would at least enable me to live there, in a degree of respectability which I

THE VOYAGE OUT.

could scarcely hope for in England. With these views I emigrated ; and my observations will, therefore, be more full in reference to my own particular pursuits, than those of most travellers who have written upon the prospects of English settlers in the United States or in Canada. Circumstances, however, ultimately induced me to return and fix myself again in my native land ; and I now offer to my countrymen, with all candour, and in some detail, the result of my inquiries, and the nature of my disappointments.

On the 28th of October 1831, our ship sailed from London for Portsmouth, at which we arrived in three days, and in this latter place we were detained four days more. Setting sail again, we soon found ourselves in the wide ocean, and made the usual observations which landsmen are accustomed to make during the tedium of a voyage across the Atlantic. Many plans I had formed for industry on the passage, but I found Bishop Heber’s observation correct, that a man can seldom study to much purpose at sea. Sickness first, and lassitude after, the uncongeniality and discomfort of a sea life ; — the weariness of its sameness, and the

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consequent eagerness for amusement to excite or divert the mind ; together with eating, which in these circumstances is a real pleasure, and sleeping, which is a grateful oblivion — leave little time or inclination for steady application of mind. Then we had the usual variety of weather, foul and fair ; a competent share of storms and perils ; and felt the customary anxiety for the termination of our voyage. My fellow-passengers were also of the mixed sort common on such occasions, some of them being English and some Americans ; and their long conversations, and many arguments upon the comparative advantages of the old and new countries, served to enlighten me considerably as to what I had to expect in the trans-atlantic country. Of these conversations I took careful notes, and their substance I may have occasion to allude to in the sequel, as corroborative of rav own observations.

At length, after a voyage of seven weeks, American land was discovered from the mast-head, and we soon after found ourselves approaching the protruding wharfs of New York. It was now about the middle of December, and the severity

AllRlVAL IN NEW YORK.

of the American climate began to be sensibly felt by most of us.

The first glimpse we had of trans-atlantic land was reflected from snow-clad hills. A biting frosty wind also, blowing from the coast, conveyed anticipations of what we might experience on shore. During all the voyage, till three days before our arrival, there had been no fire in the cabin ; but the intensity of cold was at last so great, that fire could no longer be dispensed with. When the vessel had approached near enough for a signal to be made, a gun was fired for a steam-boat to tow us to the wharf. After one had arrived, we ascended rapidly and smoothly that delightful harbour. Several picturesque islands, crowned with batteries, appeared in different directions ; but as a deep covering of snow overspread tlie landscape, the natural beauties of the harbour were indistinctly visible. The vessel was soon at the landing-place. Most of the passengers, among whom was myself, quitted the place of our long incarceration, and by one leap found ourselves at large in the land of freedom, independence, and equality. These mystic and magic words are there

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on every one’s tongue. I shall hereafter give my opinion of how they apply to this favoured land — a land after which my soul had panted many years; and the government of which my imagination had painted as perfection itself.

The first business we had to attend to on landing, was seeking lodgings. For two rooms, badly furnished, three meals a day, and water to drink, I paid twenty-one dollars a week. Myself, my wife, and two children, with a servant, constituted the members of my family. Fire and candles cost us four dollars a week ; and would have cost double that sum had we continued longer at the same house. Our landlady informed us that, from the price of fuel, she could not supply us with fire for less than one dollar a day. We had but one fire-place, which, had we submitted to such exaction, would have cost, in four months, nearly £2^ sterling.

We afterwards rented unfurnished apartments, which allowed us to be more private than any boarding-house in New York admits of. It was our intention at first to take an entire house ; but on finding that one of any respectability, would

HIGH PRICE OF LODGINGS. 7

cost from one to two hundred pounds a year, we contented ourselves with lodgings. For unfurnished lodgings, in most parts of the city, more is demanded than for furnished lodgings in many parts of London. It required some time to arrange things necessary for our convenience, which imposed more exertion and less comfort than we had been accustomed to. Our servant in the mean time left us. She had been ascertaining the value of a dollar, and how many made a pound ; and most probably conceived, that she could obtain more elsewhere. On making inquiries at the house where we had previously boarded, we found that the mistress of it had seduced her from us. This is so universally the practice as to be no matter of surprise. But as the former, with three of her family and domestics, died of cholera, and our servant returned to England six months before ourselves, I shall make no further animadversions. The servant appeared to be dissatisfied with America and its people.

The person, at whose house we had taken lodgings, was an Englishman, a painter, who informed me that he had lived some years in

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Liverpool ; but that from the heavy weight ot rates, tithes, and taxes, he had not been able to gain a living. He still had a shop there, and intended to return if the Reform Bill should pass. He so often spoke with contempt and bitterness of kings, nobility, priests, and taxes, that it was evident at once under what denomination he might be classed. He was a radical, a gambler, a frequenter of Tammany Hall,* and of the lowest society. I blushed to think that such a person and myself should have entertained similar sentiments on such a subject. He had gone to America to improve his condition, but had not found that improvement realized. He hated, and cordially railed at, the American people, their manners, and the prejudices they entertained against the English. His wife, a most worthy and industrious woman, told us, that had her husband been industrious and careful, they might have saved money, and been independent, but that they could, with the same means, have been much more comfortable in Liverpool.

* A place where the lower and more restless orders meet to discuss political and religious questions, and not a few of whose frequenters, as Twas informed are' professed Atheists.

HIGH PRICE OF FUEL.

After we were somewhat settled, I found time to look around me, and consider what was passing. It seemed to me probable, that there was as much distress in New York, in proportion to the population, as in London. We saw and relieved several beggars in the streets of that city. The number, also, of paupers who were relieved by charity, was very great. I think the excessive charges for house-rent and fuel must be severely felt by persons of slender means. There must be a great want of capital among coal and woodmerchants, or a total absence of proper regulations. Sufficient fuel had not been provided to supply the regular consumption of the city ; and its value became so enhanced in consequence, as to be almost out of the reach of the poor. The coals we consumed were double the price of what coals had cost in the summer. The coal-merchants had promised', before the winter commenced, that they would supply the people at summer prices. But promises are slight obligations, when put into competition with interest. We paid for coal at the rate of seventeen dollars a ton. While in England, we thought forty shillings a chaldron a high price ; but in New York they were twice that sum.

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As my object in going to the States was to be professionally employed, my proper interest required that I should lose no time in gaining every necessary information. For the sake of all inquirers on the same subject, I will, at some length, explain the prospects, which English clergymen in general will have before them in these States. Some of the gentlemen with whom my letters of introduction brought me into contact, possess considerable distinction. I was introduced to the Catholic and Episcopal Bishops, to Dr. Milnor, Dr. Wainright, Dr. Hossack, some of the professors of Columbia College, and several other gentlemen of all professions.

The intercourse I had with Americans was often confined to short calls and occasional confabulations. This, perhaps, arose from the circumstance, that I had illness in my family almost all wdnter ; and also from the clergy, with whom I associated more than with any other class, being much engaged in sacred ministrations among the sick, the dying, and the dead. There w^ere, according to the statements of some clergymen, more sickness and mortality in New York, and more calls on

SICKNESS.

their time for private visitation and prayers, than they had ever known in any preceding winter. There was a great mortality among all ranks, and much sickness prevailed. I myself had an attack of quinsy. Having known previously its troublesome and dangerous nature, I took every means for my recovery, and suffered the less in consequence. This whole winter we suffered much illness and hardship.

I think the prevalence of sickness and death in New York, arising probably from severity of climate and extreme changeableness of weather, might be greatly counteracted, could skilful physicians be induced to settle there. But the depressed state of professions is striking to an Englishman, accustomed to see them in their high state in his own country. This arises from a want of classification in society, a want of aristocracy, independent of sordid interest, and consequently a want of due encouragement of literature and science. In that vast assemblage of people, there is no person able to promote the object of a stranger, nor to take him by the hand. High recommendations from England are a inan‘’s

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greatest detriment. The Americans, confident that no respectable professional man will leave England for their shores, unless engaged beforehand, look upon such recommendations as English lies, intended to impose a worthless wretch on their notice. This was hinted to me by several ; and, among others, by the rector of one of the principal churches in the city. Many,” said he, come to our country with flaming pretensions ; but Americans are not too easy to be caught by such artifices.” Englishmen will, hereafter, know better than to enter America in pursuit of respectable employment. If they will stoop to menial offices, these they may obtain.

I made several inquiries respecting professorships in colleges throughout the United States, and was candidly informed by many persons capable of giving correct information, that no man, whatever be his worth or acquirements, has much chance of obtaining either collegiate or clerical promotion there, unless he have personal inffuence with a majority of the electors. A stranger is entirely excluded by such a system. The only thing open to an English clergyman, in a regular

CLERGY OF NEW YORK.

way, is the employment of a common school* master ; or a situation far back in the country, where an educated American will not go. An English clergyman of great oratorical powers may receive a call from some congregation to be their pastor ; but this is mere chance, and depends much upon the degree of his servility. He must entirely abandon every thing like English refinement, and submit to things never heard of in his native country.

I had no letters from England to any of the episcopal clergy in New York, or indeed in the States. A gentleman, to whom the king’s physician in London gave me a letter of introduction, took me, on the morning I delivered it, to Dr. Milnor, an episcopal minister of great celebrity. He inquired if I had any papers with me by which he might* be satisfied of my being a clergyman. These I had left at my lodgings ; but I shewed him letters to persons of distinction, in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and Washington. After some conversation on various subjects, he desired me to call again with my clerical papers ; promising that he would, on the following day, introduce

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me to their bishop, should my papers be satisfactory. Before we parted, he had recollected that none of the letters I had shewn him were addressed to clergymen, and inquired if I had brought any such. My answer was in the negative ; but that the letters I had produced before him must be as respectable as if from clergymen. He replied, the clergy of America will think differently. I then told him, that among those clergymen in England with whom I was more intimately acquainted, there was no one personally known to any of our profession in the States, nor indeed to any respectable person settled there. He remarked, such testimony will here be considered as indispensable. I must mention, in justice to myself, that I had with me a testimonial, regularly drawn out, and signed by three beneficed clergymen, countersigned by the Bishop of London, in which diocese I had resided for the ten preceding years.

r waited on Dr. Milnor the day following ; who, after having examined my letters of orders, and my other papers, expressed himself satisfied that they were correct. Your letters of orders are on parchment,” he said ; “ but one person from

CLERICAL IMPOSTURES.

England presented to the clergy of this place similar documents on plain paper, and written instead of being printed. Of course he was an impostor. He exhibited letters of correspondence between himself and the Bishop of Chester, written in terms of gross familiarity, and not signed Chester, but the sirname of the person who then filled that see. These excited the suspicions of the clergy of New York, who demanded a sight of his letters of orders. He exhibited them written on plain paper. In addition to this, they were not canonically correct ; and he was desired to call again with them on the morrow for further examination. He did so ; but his papers had, in the meantime, been re-v/ritten more canonically, in another hand, and on English paper : they were before on American paper. He was now fully detected, and obliged to withdraw from this city.’’ Dr. Milnor described him as of gentlemanly deportment ; and was, upon inquiry being made in England respecting him, found to have been a teacher near Knutsford. ‘‘ But,” continued the Doctor, this is not the only clerical imposture practised upon us. Another instance was by a

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person from England of a low grade, who, having by some means gained possession of the papers and other documents belonging to some episcopal English clergyman, was admitted through them, under an assumed name, to ecclesiastical employ^ ment in America. He was detected in a way natural enough, but not very flattering to the judgment of his auditory. He had collected around him a large congregation. One Sunday, a person of mean condition from England entered his church, and was surprised on finding one of his fellow-workmen in the pulpit. He mentioned the circumstance to those around him. This announcement, like all bad news, soon spread far and wide, and found its way to the preacher himself, who instantly disappeared, and was never seen again in his former place. Hence it has arisen, that we pay no attention to letters of orders, or testimonials of character, be they ever so flattering, unless they come authenticated by clergymen in England of well-known respectability. Any person may produce high testimonials, forged, or from persons of no standing; but America will not be imposed on in any such way.’*

EPISCOPAL REGULATIONS.

Impositions like the above,” continued he, occasioned a regulation to be introduced into the episcopal church of America, to prevent any clergyman from England being admitted to a benefice, until he should have resided twelve months in the country.” I acknowledged that this is a very judicious and necessary regulation; but I also observed, that it seems hard that such as arrive with every requisite testimonial, should be debarred from the advantages of their profession, because others have acted improperly, “We think otherwise,” replied he: “a three years’ testimonial is required from an English clergyman in England itself, previous to his induction to a living, yet we admit him, upon proper testimony, after one. Should we suppose emigration reversed, and an American clergyman to flee to England, he is debarred altogether, whatever may be his character, from officiating in an English church.” “You have placed the subject,” said I, “ in a striking point of view, and such as does credit to the liberality of America. I could not desire it otherwise with respect to myself.”

It is a curious circumstance, that an American

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clergyman, or one ordained by an American bishop, cannot hold any preferment in England, nor a mission in Canada ; whilst an English clergyman, whether from this country or from Canada, can hold one in the States after twelve month’s residence. This arises from a deep laid policy in the American government, which has the peopling of their country for its object. Yet I much doubt if any clergyman from England finds himself in a better condition from such regulations in his favour.

Dr. Milnor, after this, accompanied me to the house of Dr. "Onderdonc, Bishop of New York. On our way thither, he informed me that there are in America, as in England, two church parties, the high and the low. The late Bishop Hobert was of the former, and rather violent in his proceedings; or, to use a more lenient and modified phrase, very firm in his conduct and principles, and determined in his opposition to such as differed from him. The present bishop, although of the high church number, has in a great measure disarmed party-spirit of its rancour, by being exceedingly moderate. Dr. Wainright is the leading

PARTY SPIRIT.

minister, in New York, of the former, and Dr. Milnor of the latter party. Both of these gentlemen are excellent and amiable, and stand deservedly high in the estimation of their flocks, and of the public in general. This proves that no party possesses exclusively, or is debarred from possessing, those characteristic features of true Christianity which consist not in particular views of non-essentials, but in a cordial belief and sincere practice of the doctrines and precepts of the gospel. But it also shews, that no form of church Government which human reason can devise, can so unite its members and blend them together, as to render them perfectly harmonious and unanimous.

The Bishop examined my papers, and expressed himself pleased with them ; but on learning that I had no letters from or to clergymen, he observed, that it would be desirable I should write to ray clerical friends and obtain some, which might testify that I had not quitted my country for any impropriety, nor been on unhandsome terms with the dignitaries of our church, and that I was a decidedly religious character. This observation I immediately complied with, and received several

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letters from England in the course of a few months. But in the States I did not profit by them ; not because they were inadequate to establish my character, but because I had, previous to their arrival, relinquished the design of remaining there. They had, however, sufficient weight with the Bishop of Quebec, when I shewed them to his lordship, to procure me a mission in Canada.

The Bishops of America enjoy no title as in England, nor any civil distinction. Their churdi, not being a national church, is not represented directly or indirectly in their houses of legislation. In other respects it much resembles the established church of England, if we except the manner in which ministers are paid, and the powder of the American church to reform or regulate its own concerns. The liturgy is, as far as a difference of government will allow, nearly the same in both countries. The clergy of New York, and of them only can I form an idea, having heard none elsewhere, are very efficient, arid very pious. All the churches I entered are well attended, and the clergy of all of them devout and earnest. I do not wonder that those who have visited America,