The North-West passage by land : being the narrative of an expedition from the Atlantic to the Pacific, undertaken with the view of exploring a route across the continent to British Columbia through British territory, by one of the northern passes in the Rocky Mountains

Front matter

THE

NORTH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.

BEING THE NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC,

Chapter I. Page

Sail for Quebec — A Rougli Voyage — Our Fellow-Passengers — Tlis Wreck — Off the Banks of Newfouudlaud — -Quebec — Up the St. Lawrence — Niagai'a — The Captain and the Major — Westward Again — Sleeping Cars — The Red Indian — Steaming np the Missisippi — Lake Pippin — Indian Legend — St. Panl, Minnesota — Tlie Great Pacific Railroad — Travelling by American Stage- Wagon ^The Country — Our Dog Rover — -The Massacre of the Settlers by the Sioux — Culpability of the United States Government — The Prairie — Shooting by the Way — Reach Georgeto\ra .......... 1

Chapter II

Georgetown — Minnesota Volunteers — The Successful Hunters — An Indian Hag — Resolve to go to Fort Garry in Canoes — Rumours of a Sioux Outbreak — The Half-breeds refuse to Accompany us— Prepare to Start Alone — Our Canoes and Equipment — A Sioux War Party — The Halfbreed's Story — Down Red River — Strange Sights and Sounds — Our First Night Out — Effects of the Sun and Mosquitoes — Milton Disabled — Monotony of the Scenery— Leaky Canoes — Travelling by Night — The "Oven" Camp — Hunting Geese in Canoes — Meet the Steamer — Milton's Narrow Escape — Treemiss and Cheadle follow Suit — Carried Down the Rapids — Vain Attempts to Ascend — A Hard Struggle — On Board at last — Start once more — Delays — Try a Night Voyage again — The "Riband Storm" — " In Thunder, Lightning, and in Rain" — Fearful Phenomena — Oui- Miserable Plight — No Escape — Steering in Utter Darkness — Snags and Rocks — A Long Night's Watching — No Fire — A Drying Day — Another Terrible Storm — And Another — Camp of Disasters — Leave it at last — Marks of the Fury of the Storms — Provisions at an End — Fishing for Gold-eyes— A Day's Fast — Slaughter of Wild-Fowl — Our Voracity — A Pleasant Awakening — Caught up by the Steamer — Pembina — Fort Garry — La Ronde — We go under Canvass . 18 viii CONTENTS.

Chapter III. Page

Fort Garry Origin of the Ked River Settlement — The First Settlers — Their

Sufterings The North- Westers — The Grasshoppers — The Blackbirds—

The Flood— The Colony in 1862— King Company — Farming at Red Kiver Fertility of the Soil — Isolated Position of the Colony — Obstructive Policy of the Company — Their Just Dealing and Kindness to the Indians — Necessity for a Proper Colonial Government — Value of the Country — French Canadians and Half-breeds — Their Idleness and Frivolity — Hunters and Voyageurs— Extraordinary Endurance — The English and Scotch Settlers — The Spring and Fall Hunt — Our Life at Fort Garry — Too Late to cross the Mountains before Winter — Our Plans — Men — Horses— Bucephahis^Our Equipment — Leave Fort Garry • — The " Noce " — La Ronde's Last Carouse — Delightful Travelling — A Night Alarm —Vital Deserts — Fort Ellice — Delays — Making Pemmican — Its Value to the Traveller — Swarms of Wild-Fowl — Good Shooting — The Indian Summer — A Salt Lake Country — Search for Water — A Horse's Instinct — South Saskatchewan — Arrive at Carlton . . .36

Chapter IV

Carlton — Buffalo close to the Fort — Fall of Snow — Decide to Winter near White Fish Lake — The Grisly Bears — Start for the Plains — The Dead Buffalo— The White Wolf— Running Buffalo Bulls— The Gathering of the Wolves — Treemiss Lost— How he Spent the Night — Indian Hospitality— Visit of the Crees — The Chief's Speech — Admire our Horses — Suspicious Stratagem to Elude the Crees — Watching Horses at Night — Suspicious Guests — The Cows not to be Found — More Running — Tidings of our Pursuers — Return to the Fort . . . . , .59

Chapter V

The Ball— Half-breed Finery — Voudrie and Zear return to Fort Garry — Treemiss starts for the Montague du Bois — Leave Carlton for Winter Quarters— Shell River— La Belle Prairie— Riviere Crochet — The Indians of White Fish Lake— Kekek-ooarsis, or " Child of the Hawk," and Keenamontiayoo, or " The Long Neck "—Their Jollification— Passionate Fondness for Rum— Excitement in the Camp— Indians flock in to Taste the Fire-water— Sitting out our Visitors— A Weary Day— Cache the Rum Keg by Night- Retreat to La Belle Prairie— Site of our House- La Ronde as Architect— How to Build a Log Hut— The Chimney— A Grand Crash— Our Dismay— Milton supersedes La Ronde— The Chimney Rises again— Our Indian Friends— The Frost sets in . . . .70

Chapter VI

Furnishing— Cheadle's Visit to Carlton— Treemiss there— His Musical Evening witli Atahk-akoohp-A very Cold Bath— State Visit of the Assiniboines— Their Message to Her Majesty— How they found out we had Rum— Fort Milton Completed— The Crees of the Woods— Contrast to

CONTENTS. IX

PAGE

the Crees of the Plains — Indian Children — Absence of Deformity — A " Moss-bag " — Kekek-ooarsis and his Domestic Troubles — The Winter begins in Earnest — Wariness of all Animals — Poisoning Wolves — Caution of the Foxes — La Ronde and Cheadle start for the Plains — Little Misquapamayoo — Milton's Charwoman — On the Prairies — Stalking Buffalo — Belated — A Treacherous Blanket — A Cold Night Watch — More Hunting — Cheadle's Wits go Wool-gathering — La Ronde's Indignation — Lost all Night — Out in the Cold again — Our Camp Pillaged — Turn Homewards — Rough and Ready Travelling — Arrive at Fort Milton — Feasting 79

Chapter VII

Trapping — The Fur-bearing Animals — Value of different Furs — The Trapper's Start into the Forest — How to make a Marten Trap — Steel Traps for Wolves and Foxes — The Wolverine — The Way he Gets a Living — His Destructiveness and Persecution of the Trapper — His Cunning — His Behaviour when Caught in a Trap — La Ronde's Stories of the Carcajou — The Trapper's Life — The Vast Forest in Winter — Sleeping Out^The Walk of Indians and Half-breeds — Their Instinct in the Woods — The Wolverine Demolishes our Traps — Attempts to Poison him — Treemiss's Arrival — He relates his Adventures — A Scrimmage in the Dark — The Giant Tamboot — His Fight with Atahk-akoohp — Prowess of Tamboot — Decide to send our Men to Red River for Supplies — Delays . . . 9y

Chapter VIII

Milton visits Carlton — Fast Travelling — La Ronde and Bruneau set out for Fort Garry — Trapping with Misquapamayoo — Machinations against the Wolverine — The Animals' Fishery — The Wolverine Outwits us— Return Home — The Cree Language — How an Indian tells a Story — New Year's Day among the Crees — To the Prairies again — The Cold — Travelling with Dog-sleighs — Out in the Snow — Our New Attendants — Prospect of Starvation — A Day of Expectation — A Rapid Retreat — The Journey Home — Indian Voracity — Res Augusta Domi — Cheadle's Journey to the Fort — Perversity of his Companions — " The Hunter " yields to Temptation — Milton's Visit to Kekek-ooarsis — A Medicine Feast — The New Song — Cheadle's Journey Home — Isbister and his Dogs — Mahaygun, " The Wolf " — Pride and Starvation — Our Meeting at White Fish Lake 113

Chapter IX

Our New Acquaintances — Taking it Quietly — Mahaygun Fraternises with Keenamontiayoo — The Carouse — Importunities for Rum — The Hunter asks for more — A Tiresome Evening — Keenamontiayoo Renounces us — His Night Adventure — Misquapamayoo's Devotion — The Hunter returns Penitent — The Plains again — The Wolverine on our Track — The Last Band of Buffalo— Gaytchi Mohkamarn, "The Big Knife"— The Cache

A

X CONTENTS.

PAGE

Intact— Starving Indians— Story of Keenamontiayoo — Indian Gambling — The Hideous Philosopher — Dog Driving — Shushu's Wonderful Sagacity — A Long March — Return to La Belle Prairie — Household Cares— Our Untidy Dwelling— Our Spring Cleanijig— The Great Plum Pudding— Unprofitable Visitors — Rover's Accomplishments Astonish the Indians — Famine Everywhere 138

Chapter X

La Ronde's Return — Letters from Home — A Feast — The Journey to Red River and Back^Hardships— The Frozen Train — Three Extra Days — The Sioux at Fort Garry— Their Spoils of War— Late Visitors — Musk- Rats and their Houses — Rat-catching — Our Weather Glass — Moose Hunting in the Spring— Extreme Wariness of the Moose — His Stratagem to Guard against Surprise — Marching during the Thaw — Prepare to leave Winter Quarters — Search for the Horses — Their Fine Condition- Nutritious Pasturage — Leave La Belle Prairie — Carlton again — Good-bye to Treemiss aud La Ronde — Baptiste Supernat — Start for Fort Pitt- Passage of Wild-Fowl — Baptiste's Stories^Crossing Swollen Rivers — Addition to our Party — Shooting for a Living — The Prairie Bird's BaU — Fort Pitt — Peace between the Crees and Blackfeet — Cree Full Dress — The Blackfeet— The Dress of their Women — Indian Solution of a Diflaculty— Rumours of War— Hasty Retreat of the Blackfeet— Louis Battenotte, "The Assiniboine" — His Seductive Manners — Departure for Edmonton — A Night Watch — A Fertile Land — The Works of Beaver — Their Effect on the Country — Their decline in Power — How we Crossed the Saskatchewan — Up the Hill — Eggs and Chickens — Arrive at Edmonton ~ . . 161

CHAPTER XL Edmonton — Grisly Bears — The Roman Catholic Mission at St. Alban's — The Priest preaches a Crusade against the Grislies — Mr. Pembrun's Story — The Gold Seekers — Perry, the Miner — Mr. Hardisty's Story — The Cree in Training — Running for Life — Hunt for the Bears-^Life at a Hudson's Bay Fort — Indian Fortitude — Mr. O'B. introduces Himself — His Extensive Acquaintance — The Story of his Life— Wishes to Accompany us — His Dread of Wolves and Bears — He comes into the Doctor's hands — He congratulates us upon his Accession to our Party — The Hudson's Bay People attempt to dissuade us from trying the Leather Pass — Unknown Country on the West of the Mountains — The Emigrants — The other Passes — Explorations of Mr. Ross and Dr. Hector — Our Plans— Mr. O'B, objects to " The Assiniboine " — " The Assiniboine " protests against Mr. O'B. — Our Party and Preparations 183

Chapter XII

Set out from Edmonton — Prophecies of Evil — Mr. O'B.'s Forebodings — Lake St. Ann's — We enter the Forest — A Rough Trail — Mr. O'B., im-

CONTENTS. XI

PAGE

pressed with the difficulties which beset him, commences the study of Paley — Pembina River — The Coal-bed— Game — Curious Habit of the Willow Grouse — Mr. O'B. en route — Changes wrought by Beaver — The Assinibome's Adventure with the Grisly Bears — Mr. O'B. prepares to sell his Life dearly — Hunt for the Bears— Mr. O'B. Protects the Camp — The Bull-dogs— The Path through the Pine Forest— The Elbow of the McLeod — Baptiste becomes Discontented — Trout Fishing — Moose Himting — Baptiste Deserts— Council — Resolve to Proceed— We lose the Trail — The Forest on Fire— Hot Quarters— Working for Life— Escape— Strike the Athabasca River— First View of the Rocky Moimtains — Mr. O'B. spends a Restless Night — Over the Mountain — Magnificent Scenery — Jasper House— Wild Flowers — Hunting the "MoutonGris" and the " Mouton Blanc " 20-3

Chapter XIII

Making a Raft — Mr. O'B. at Hard Labour — He admires our "Youthful Ardour" — News of Mr. Macaulay — A Visitor — Mr. O'B. Fords a River — Wait for Mr. Macaulay — The Shushwaps of the Rocky Mountains— Winter Famine at Jasper House— The Wolverine — The Miners before us — Start again — Cross the Athabasca — The Priest's Rock — Site of the Old Fort, " Henry's House "—The Valley of the Myette— Fording Rapids — Mr. O'B. on Horseback again — Swimming the Myette— Cross it for the Last Time— The Height of Land— The Streams run Westward — Buffalo-dmig Lake — Strike the Eraser River — A Day's Wading — Mr. O'B.'s Hair-breadth Escapes — Moose Lake — Rockingham Falls — More Travelling through Water — Mr. O'B. becomes disgusted with his Horse— Change in Vegetation — Mahomet's Bridge — Change in the Rocks — Fork of the Eraser, or original Tete Jaune Cache — Magnificent Scenery — Robson's Peak — Flood and Forest — Horses carried down the Eraser — The Pursuit— Intrepidity of the Assiniboine — He rescues Bucephalus — Loss of Gisquakani — Mr. O'B.'s Reflections and. Regrets — Sans Tea and Tobacco — The Extent of our Losses — Mr. O'B. and Mrs. Assiniboine — Arrive at the Cache . . 236

Chapter XIV

Tete Jaune Cache — Nature of the Country — Wonderful View — West of the Rocky Mountains, Rocky Mountains still — The "Poire," or Service Berry — The Shushwaps of The Cache — The Three Miners — Gain but little Information about the Road — The Iroquois return to Jasper House — Loss of Mr. O'B.'s Horse — Leave The Cache — The Watersheds — Canoe River — Perilous Adventure with a Raft — Milton and the Woman — Extraordinary Behaviour of Mr. O'B. — The Rescue — The Watershed of the Tliompsou — Changes by Beaver — Mount Milton — Enormous Timber — Cross the River — Fork of the North Thompson — A Dilemma — No Road to be Found — Cross the North-west Branch — Mr. O'B.'s Presentiment of Evil — Lose the Trail again — Which Way shall we Turn? — Resolve to try and reach Kamloops — A Natural

Xll CONTENTS.

PAGE

Bridge — We become Beasts of Burden — Mr. O'B. objects, but is overruled by The Assiniboine — "A Hard Road to Travel" — Miseries of driving Pack-horses — An Unwelcome Discovery — The Trail Ends — Lost in the Forest— Our Disheartening Condition — Council of War — Explorations of The Assiniboine, and his Report^A Feast on Bear's Meat^Hovv we had a Smoke, and were encouraged by The Assiniboine 264

Chapter XV

We commence to Cut our Way — The Pathless Primeval Forest — The Order of March — Trouble with our Horses : Their Perversity — Continual Disasters — Our Daily Fare — Mount Cheadle — Country Improves only in Appearance — Futile Attempt to Escape out of the Valley — A Glimpse of Daylight — Wild Fruits — Mr. O'B. triumphantly Crosses the River— The Assiniboine Disabled— New Arrangements — Hopes of Finding Prairie-Land — Disappointment — Forest and Mountain Everywhere— False Hopes again — Provisions at an End — Council of War — The Assiniboine Hunts without Success— The Headless Indian — "Le Petit Noir" Condemned and Executed — Feast on Horse-flesh — Leave Black Horse Camp — Forest again — The Assiniboine becomes Disheartened— The Grand Rapid — A Dead Lock — Famishing Horses — The Barrier — Shall we get Past ? — Mr. O'B. and Bucephalus— Extraordinary Escape of the Latter — More Accidents — La Porte d'Enfer — Step by Step — The Assiniboine Downcast and Disabled — Mrs. Assiniboine takes his Place — The Provisions come to an End again — A Dreary Beaver Swamp— The Assiniboine gives up in Despair — M. O.'B. begins to Doubt, discards Paley, and prepares to become Insane — We kill another Horse — ■ A Bird of Good Omen — The Crow speaks Truth — Fresher Sign — A Trail — The Road rapidly Improves — Out of the Forest at Last ! . . 286

Chapter XVI

On a Trail Again — The Effect on Ourselves and Horses — The Changed Aspect of the Country — Wild Fruits — Signs of Man Increase — Enthusiastic Greeting — Starving again— Mr. O'B. finds Caliban — His Affectionate Behaviour to him — The Indians' Camp — Information about Kamloops — Bartering for Food — Clearwater River — Cross the Thompson — The Lily-berries — Mr. O'B. and The Assiniboine Fall Out — Mr. O'B. flees to the Woods — Accuses The Assiniboine of an Attempt to Murder him — Trading for Potatoes — More Shushwaps— Coffee and Pipes — Curious Custom of the Tribe — Kamloops in Sight — Ho ! for the Fort — Mr. O'B. takes to his Heels — Captain St. Paul — A Good Supper^Doubts as to our Reception — Our Forbidding Appearance — Our Troubles at an End — Rest 311

Chapter XVII

Kamloops— We discover True Happiness — The Fort and Surrounding Country — The Adventures of the Emigrants who preceded us — Catastrophe at the Grand Rapid — Horrible Fate of Three Canadians —

CONTENTS. XIU

PAQB

Cannibalism — Practicability of a Road by the Yellow Head Pass — Various Routes from Tete Jaune Cache — Advantages of the Yellow Head Pass, contrasted with those of the South — The Future Highway to the Pacific — Return of Mr. McKay — Mr. O'B. sets out alone — The Murderers — The Shushwai^s of Kamloops — Contrast between them and the Indians East of the Rocky Mountains — Mortality — The Dead Unburied — Leave Kamloops— Strike the Wagon Road from the Mines — Astonishment of the Assiniboine Family — The remarkable Terraces of the Thompson and Fraser — Their Great Extent : contain Gold — Connection with the Bunch-grass — The Road along the Thompson — Cook's Ferry — The Drowned Murderer — Rarity of Crime in the Colony — The most Wonderful Road in the World — The Old Trail — Pack-Indians — Indian Mode of Catching Salmon — Gay Graves — The Grand Scenery of the Canons — Probable Explanation of the Formation of the Terraces- Yale — Hope and Langley — New Westminster — Mr. O'B. turns up again — Mount Baker — The Islands of the Gulf of Georgia — Victoria, Vancouver Island ........... 322

Chapter XVIII

Victoria — The Rush there from California — Contrast to San Francisco under similar Circumstances — The Assiniboines see the Wonders of Victoria — Start for Cariboo — Mr. O'B. and The Assiniboine are reconciled — The former re-establishes his Faith^ — Farewell to the Assiniboine Family — Salmon in Harrison River — The Lakes — Mr. 0. B.'s Triumph — Lilloet — Miners' Slang — The " Stage " to Soda Creek — Johnny the Driver — Pavilion Mountain — The Rattlesnake Grade — The Chasm — Way-side Houses on the Road to the Mines — We meet a Fortimate Miner — The Farming Land of the Colony — The Steamer — Frequent Cocktails— The Mouth of Quesnelle — The Trail to William's Creek — A Hard Journey — Dead Horses — Cameron Town, William's Creek . .351

Chapter XIX

William's Creek, Cariboo — The Discoverers — The Position and Nature of the Gold Country — Geological Features — The Cariboo District — Hunting the Gold up the Fraser to Cariboo — Conjectured Position of the Auriferous Quartz Veins — Various kinds of Gold — Drawbacks to Mining in Cariboo — The Cause of its Uncertainty — Extraordinary Richness of the Diggings — •" The Way the Money Goes " — Miners' Eccentricities — Our Quarters at Cusheon's — Price of Provisions — The Circulating Medium — Down in the Mines — Profits and Expenses —

The "Judge" — Our Farewell Dinner — The Company^Dr. B 1

waxes Eloquent — Dr. B k's Noble Sentiments — The Evening's

Entertainment — Dr. B 1 retires, but is heard of again — General

Confusion — The Party breaks up — Leave Cariboo — Boating down the Fraser — Camping Out — William's Lake — Catastrophe on the River — The Express Wagon— Difficulties on the Way — The Express-man Prophesies his own Fate— The Road beyond Lytton— A Break-down— Furious Drive into Yale —Victoria once more 3(54

XIV CONTENTS.

Chapter XX. Pagk

Nanaimo and San Juan — Resources of British Columbia and Vancouver Island — Minerals — Timber — Abundance of Fish — Different kinds of Salmon — The Hoolicans, and the Indian Method of Taking them — Pasturage — The Bunch-grass : its Peculiarities and Drawbacks — Scarcity of Farming Land — Different Localities — Land in Vancouver Island — Contrast between California and British Columbia — Gross Misrepresentations of the Latter — Necessity for Saskatchewan as an Agricultural Supplement — Advantages of a Route across the Contment — The Americans before us — The Difficulties less by the British Route — Communioation with China and Japan by this Line — The Shorter Distance — The Time now come for the Fall of the Last Great Monopoly — The North- West Passage by Sea, and that by Land — The Last News of Mr. O'B.— Conclusion 38.fi

Appendix 398

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS.

PAOK

Our Pabty Across the Mountains ..... Frontispiece.

Our Night Camp on Eagle Kiver. — Expecting the Crees ... 68

Our Winter Hut. — La Belle Prairie 76

A Marten Trap 102

Swamp formed by Beaver, with Ancient Beaver House and Dam . 179

Fort Edmonton, on the North Saskatchewan 183

The Forest on Fire 225

Over the Mountain, near Jasper House 231

View from the Hill opposite Jasper House. — The Upper Lake of

THE Athabasca River and Priest's Rock 232

Crossing the Athabasca River, in the Rocky Mountains . . . 245

The Assiniboine rescues Bucephalus 259

Our Misadventure with the Raft in crossing Canoe River . . 271

A View on the North Thompson, looking Eastward . . . 275

The Trail at an End 281

Mr. O'B. triumphantly Crosses the River 291

The Headless Indian 296

The Terraces on the Fraser River 338

Yale, on the Eraser River 347

The "Rattlesnake Grade." — Pavillon Mountain, British Columbia;

altitude, 4,000 FEET 356

A Way-side House. — Arrr'al of Miners 359

A Way-side House at Midnight ........ 359

Miners washing for Gold 372

The Cameron " Claim," William's Creek, Cariboo .... 373 General Map of British North America, showing the Authors'

Route across the Continent .... {Bound with Volume.)

Map op the Western Portion of British North America, showing THE Route across the Rocky Mountains by the Yellow Head, or Leather Pass, into British Columbia, on a larger scale.

{In the Pocket.)

PEEFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION.

In the various reviews of this Work which have from time to time appeared, the critics have differed greatly in the measure of their faith in Mr. O'B., one of the most prominent characters in the narrative. Some have merely expressed themselves as troubled with vague doubts whether he ever had any existence, except in the imagination of the Authors; while others have at once unhesitatingly assumed that he was a fictitious character; and others again, on the contrary, have not only heartily accepted him as a reality, but, being doubtless possessed of special sources of information— perhaps, indeed, being numbered amongst the legion of Mr. O'B.'s acquaintances — have also disclosed to the public the further particulars that he is a clergyman, and that his name is O'Brien ! As these doubts and erroneous statements might affect, in some degree, the general credit of a narrative, the

XVlll PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION.

value of which, as an account of the exploration of a country little known, must depend on its careful fidelity, the Authors feel themselves called upon to state — First, that Mr. O'B. is not a fictitious character, hut a real actor in the story, portrayed as faithfully and truly as it lay in the power of the Authors to depict him ; and that the adventures which he is recorded to have met with are in no wise exaggerated or imaginary, but strictly true. Secondl}'', that although Mr. O'B. was passionately devoted to the study of theology, and a staunch and enthusiastic Churchman, he was not a clergyman. Lastly, that his name was not O'Brien.

Should Mr. O'B. be the means of drawing attention to and promoting the settlement of the Fertile Belt, and the formation of an Overland Eoute to the Pacific across British America, he will have rendered his country very valuable service.

October I5th, 1865.

PEEFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

The favourable reception and rapid sale of tlie First Edition of this Work, so gratifying to the Authors, must be their apology for sending forth a Second with but little alteration. With the exception of the correction of a few trifling inaccuracies, and the insertion of some additional information relating to the Eed River Settlement, the present Edition is little more than a reprint of the former one. For the further details, contained in the Appendix, the Authors are indebted to the kindness of Mr. Dallas, the Grovernor of Rupert's Land, to whom they beg to tender their best thanks for the assistance he has rendered them.

Preface To The Fiest Edition

The following pages contain the narrative of an Expedition across the Continent of North America, through the Hudson's Bay Territories, into British Columbia, by one of the northern passes in the Rocky Mountains. The expedition was undertaken with the design of discovering the most direct route through British territory to the gold regions of Cariboo, and exploring the unknown country on the western flank of the Rocky Mountains, in the neighbourhood of the sources of the north branch of the Thompson River.

The Authors have been anxious to give a faithful account of their travels and adventures amongst the prairies, forests, and mountains of the Far West, and have studiously endeavoured to preserve the greatest accuracy in describing countries previously little known. But one of the principal objects they have

XXll PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.

had in view has been to draw attention to the vast importance of establishing a highway from the Atlantic to the Pacific through the British possessions ; not only as establishing a connection between the different English colonies in North America, but also as affording a means of more rapid and direct communication with China and Japan. Another advantage which would follow — no less important than the preceding — would be the opening out and colonisation of the magnificent regions of the Red River and Saskatchewan, where 65,000 square miles of a country of unsurpassed fertility, and abounding in mineral wealth, lies isolated from the world, neglected, almost unknown, although destined, at no distant period perhaps, to become one of the most valuable possessions of the British Crown.

The idea of a route across the northern part of the Continent is not a new one. The project was entertained by the early French settlers in Canada, and led to the discovery of the Rocky Mountains. It has since been revived and ably advocated by Professor Hind and others, hitherto without success.

The favourite scheme of geographers in this country for the last three centuries has been the

PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. XXlll

discovery of a North- West Passage by sea, as the shortest route to the rich countries of the East. The discovery has been made, but in a commercial point of view it has proved valueless. We have attempted to show that the original idea of the French Canadians was the right one, and that the true North- West Passage is by land, along the fertile belt of the Saskatchewan, leading through British Columbia to the splendid harbour of Esquimalt, and the great coal-fields of Vancouver Island, which ofier every advantage for the protection and supply of a merchant fleet trading thence to India, China, and Japan.

The Illustrations of this Work are taken almost entirely from photographs and sketches taken on the spot, and will, it is hoped, possess a certain value and interest, as depicting scenes never before drawn by any pencil, and many of which had never previously been visited by any white man, some of them not even by an Indian. Our most cordial thanks are due to Mr. R. P. Leitch, and Messrs. Cooper and Linton, for the admirable manner in which they have been executed ; and to Mr. Arrowsmith, for the ofreat care and labour he has bestowed on working; out the geography of a district heretofore so imperfectly known. We also beg to acknowledge the

XXIV PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.

very great obligations under which we lie to Sir James Douglas, late Governor of British Columbia and Vancouver Island ; Mr. Donald Eraser, of Victoria; and Mr. McKay, of Kamloops, for much valuable information concerning the two colonies, and who, with many others, showed us the greatest kindness during our stay in those countries.

4, Grosvenor Square, June \st, 1865.

THE

NOETH-WEST PASSAGE BY LAND.

Chapter I

Sail for Quebec — A Rough Voyage — Our Fellow-Passengers — The Wreck — Off the Banks of Newfoundland — Quebec — Up the St. Lawrence — Niagara — The Captain and the Major — Westward Again — Sleeping Cars — The Red Indian — Steaming up the Missisippi — Lake Pippin — Indian Legend— St. Paul, Minnesota — The Great Pacific Railroad — Travelling by American Stage- Wagon — The Country— Our Dog Rover — The Massacre of the Settlers by the Sioux — Culpability of the United States Government—The Prairie — Shooting by the Way — Reach Georgetown.

On the 19th of June, 1862, we embarked in the screw-steamer Anglo-Saxon, bound from Liverpool to Quebec. The day was dull and murky ; and as the tender left the landing-stage, a drizzling rain began to fall. This served as an additional damper to our spirits, already sufficiently low at the prospect of leaving home for a long and indefinite period. Unpleasant anticipations of ennui, and stiU more bodily suffering, had risen up within the hearts of both of us — for we agree in detesting a sea-voyage, although not willing to go the length of endorsing the confession wrung from that light of the American