Newfoundland at the beginning of the 20th century : a treatise of history and development

Introduction

After an isolation of 400 years, the people of Newfoundland have, by the completion of the Trans-Insular Railway, been brought in touch with the outside world. During this long period the conditions of life were most primitive. Until a date quite recent the colony was without roads, without agriculture, without manufactures and without the most ordinary conveniences.

To the inhabitants of Newfoundland through all those dreary centuries there was not even the boon of an alternative. Their sole and inevitable fate was to dwell on the rock-bound coast and follow the treacherous main. Here generation after generation has existed, confronting the pitiless rigors of the climate and the terrors of the sea. To endure and survive these extreme hardships and perils, implied more than a mere rude subsistence. It was from this hard discipline of privation and self-sacrifice that heroic qualities were evolved. This is the reward, of far greater worth than all material gains, which Nature gives to those who abide with her and whose destinies are in her keeping.

If those whose lives have been cast amidst the stirring scenes of this fast-advancing age, coming to this peaceful land, have new and valuable ideas to impart, so have they in turn much to gain. To rest for a time from life's warfare amidst these tranquil scenes is to gain new health and nobler aspirations. It is to realize the true import of life.

Newfoundland is no longer a remote and an inaccessible island. It can now be reached in a few hours by rail with all the comforts of modern travel, save a six hours sail in an elegant steamship. Warm suns, genial skies and the bright landscapes of a fair country await the comer, and this welcome is emphasized by an earnest and a kindly people, who, like other earthly pilgrims, are struggling along the rugged path of life, toiling, hoping, aspiring amidst successes and defeats, in sunlight and in gloom, for the better days to come.

At no period in its history have the prospects of the colony been so bright as at the present time. The railway has wrought a change in its internal affairs and in its relation to the world at large, which involves a material and social revolution. New men, new life, new industries and new customs are the inevitable results that must come from this great public work.

This book appears at the dawn of this advancing movement, with the purpose and the hope of aiding in its progress. It is a concise statement of history and development presented in attractive form and is commended to seekers for information of this ancient colony, of whose auspicious destiny it is prophetic.

The Rev. M. Harvey, LL.D., F. R. S. C, whose writings have enriched the literature of the colony, is the author of the within text.

His Imperial Majesty King Edward VII.

Her Imperial Majesty Queen Alexandria.

Chapter I. — Historical Outline, - - - - - - - 11 II. — Geographical Outline, - 19

III.— Climate, 27

IV. — Scenery, ----31

V. — Fisheries 41

VI. — Agricultural Capabilities, 63

VII.— Crown Lands, 75

VIII.— Minerals, 79

IX.— Public Roads, 93

X.— Routes of Travel, 97

XL— Along the Railway, 127

XII.— Game, 137

XIII.— The French Shore Question, ------ 141

XIV,— The French Islands, ------- 145

XV.— The Inhabitants of Newfoundland, - 147

XVI. — Population, Religious Denominations, Etc., - 153

XVII.— Education, 155

XVIII. — Form of Government, - - 157

XIX.— The Aborigines, - 161

XX.— Labrador, 163

XXL— Newfoundland Railway, 169

XXII. — Petty Harbor Hydraulic Electrical System and the Street

Railway, 175

XXIII.— Bell Island, 181

CONTENTS.— Continued,

Appendix

Chapter I. — The Visit of Their Royal Highnesses The Duke and

Duchess of Cornwall and York, ... - 3

II. — Arrival of the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York, 7

III. — The Dinner at Government House, 19

IV. — Letters of Acknowledgement, 25

V. — The Outside Press on the Royal Visit to Newfoundland, - 31

VI. — Brilliant Illuminations, 41

VII. — In Newfoundland, ------- 5]

VIII.— The Premier Knighted, ----.- 61

IX.— The Royal Tour, 69

CHAPTER I.

HISTORICAL OUTLINE.

THE History of the Island of Newfoundland presents many points of great interest, and connects itself closely with that of both England and America. Its story begins only five years after the discovery of America by Columbus. In 1497, John Cabot the discoverer of North America, touched these shores on his first memorable voyage, and made known the existence of this great island. Eighty-six years afterwards, England formally took possession of the island which was hers already by right of discovery, and here Sir Humphrey Gilbert first raised the flag of England in the New World and planted the first English Colony. England achieved her first success in maritime discovery and colonization here. Besides, it was in prosecuting the rich fisheries in its encompassing waters that English sailors first learned how to rule the waves, and thus were laid the foundations of England's maritime supremacy.

To guard and extend these fisheries, colonies were first planted on the North American continent, and thus the beginnings of Anglo-Saxon occupation of these vast territories were secured. The history of Newfoundland connects itself closely with the great struggles between England and France for the possession of North America which ended in the capture of Quebec by Wolf in 1759. During the continuance of the great duel between the two nations the French made many attempts to obtain and hold possession of Newfoundland, but by the treaty of Utrecht (1713), they renounced all territorial rights in the island. Unfortunately however, they were granted permission to fish and dry their fish on a portion of the coast, about 700 miles in length, a concurrent not an exclusive right; and afterwards the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon at the mouth of Fortune Bay were ceded to France for the shelter of her fishermen. The treaty rights thus given to the French have been a great drawback to the prosperity of the colony, and are still a serious incubus on its progress.

After the days of Sir Humphrey Gilbert (1583), various attempts were made to colonize the island, but without any marked success. The names of John Guy (1610), Sir George Calvert (1623), and Sir David Kirk (1638), figure among the colonizers.

In 1615, Captain Richard Whitbourne was sent out by the Admiralty of England to establish order among the fishing population; and in 1622, on his return to England, he published a book called « A Discourse and Discovery of Newfoundland.))

All this time, however, a race of hardy industrious men were gradually, though slowly, settling themselves on the shores of the island, attracted by the rich fisheries. These fisheries were at first carried on by migratory fishermen from England, who spent the summer in fishing, and returned on the approach of winter. As many as 200 English vessels, mainly from the west of England, employing 10,000 men and boys, frequented these waters from 1600 onward. These fisheries were declared to be « the stay and support of the west counties of England,)) and « the fisheries were worth £100,000 annually to British subjects,)) an immense sum in those days. This lucrative fishery was carried on by certain English « merchant adventurers))

Rt. Hon. Joseph Chamberlain, M. P.

Secretary of State for the Colonies.

as they were called who made it a monopoly, and in order to do so they induced the English government to pass laws prohibiting settlement in the island and compelling all fishermen to return to England at the close of the fishing season.

It was made a penal offence to enclose or cultivate the smallest piece of ground. Without a special license no house could be built or repaired. These absurd and oppressive laws, preventing the settlement of the island, were in operation for more than 150 years, and it was not till the beginning of the present century that the last of them were swept from the statute book. The celebrated « Fishing Admirals » were the administrators of the law and oppressed the people sorely.

All this time, however, a sturdy, industrious population in spite of these cruel laws, were settling and making homes for themselves around the shores of the island. They held their ground and increased in numbers, and courageously fought the battle of freedom. England at last awoke to the injustice and cruelty of these laws, and they were gradually repealed; but so late as 1799, houses were pulled down in St. John's by order of the Governor because built without a license, and the restrictions on building and enclosing ground were not entirely removed till 1820. Only then did progress become possible. In 1804, the resident population numbered only 20,500.

In 1832, England granted to the Colony the great boon of representative government, and in 1854, responsible government. Progress was rapid. Roads were made, bridges built and provision was made for the establishment and maintenance of education. The country began to be explored and opened up. A geological survey of the island was begun in 1864, and its natural resources were found to be great.

The first copper mine was opened in 1864, and was speedily followed by others. In 1866 the Atlantic cable found a resting place on the shores of the island, and connected it with England and America.

Steam communication direct with Europe and America was established in 1873; and in 1884 the first railway, eightythree miles in length, between St. John's and Harbor Grace, was opened.

In 1893, a contract was made for the construction of a trans-insular railway from the capital to Port-aux-Basques (548 miles), over which regular trains began to run on July 24, 1898, and a fine steamer in connection with it, makes the run across Cabot Strait to North Sydney, Cape Breton in six hours. Iron and copper mines are now worked in various localities. The population (1898), is about 210,000.

A fine dry dock is built in St. John's. The annual value of agricultural products is over $750,000, and the value of land under cultivation, together with the cattle, sheep and horses, over $2,500,000.

to

His Excellency Sir Cavendish Boyle, K. C. M. G. , Governor of Newfoundland.

Chapter II. Geographical Outline

The geographical position of the island is unique and singularly important and commanding. Anchored at no great distance off the North American continent, and stretching right across the entrance of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, to which it affords access at both its northern and southern extremities, it might be regarded as a place of arms, and defence, for the power that holds it possesses the key of the St. Lawrence. It may be compared to a huge bastion thrown out into the North Atlantic, which if duly fortified and armed, could be made the Gibraltar of the surrounding seas. Its southwestern extremity is within sixty or seventy miles of Cape Breton, which is substantially the eastern point of Nova Scotia, while its most eastern projection, Cape Spear is but 1,640 miles distance from Ireland. Thus it forms as it were a stepping stone between the Old World and the New. In regard to size it counts tenth among the islands of the globe. Its greatest breadth is 216 miles, and its greatest length about the same; its area is 42,000 square miles. It is almost equal to the Empire State of New York; twice the size of Nova Scotia, and one-sixth larger than Ireland. In shape it is roughly triangular, having a wide southern base between Cape Race and Cape Ray, and a long narrow apex, called Petit Nord, towards the north.

Three large peninsulas project from the main body of the island. The largest of these, the peninsula of Avalon, is almost severed from the main portion of the island, by the two large bays of Placentia and Trinity, which are separated by a narrow isthmus, in one place but three miles in width. The Avalon peninsula is further divided by the two bays of St. Mary's and Conception. Owing to its extensive frontage on the Atlantic, its numerous harbors, and its proximity to the best fishing grounds, Avalon is the most thickly populated and commercially important part of the island. The northern peninsula — called Petit Nord by the French — runs up long and narrow almost to Labrador. The smallest peninsula of the three, projects southerly between the bays of Placentia and Fortune. There is also a small peninsula called Port-au-Port, on the west coast.

The first sight of the coasts impresses the traveler unfavorably. It is what is termed « rock bound,)) or rather we might say it is a great wall of rock, now shooting up into peaks, now breaking into fissures, now presenting dark frowning cliffs, bold promontories, and headlands sculptured into grim fantastic forms by frost, storms, and blows of Atlantic billows. At intervals these rocky walls are cleft by deep bays running many miles inland, studded with verdant islands of all shapes and sizes, and often fringed by dark green forests. These great fiords, strikingly resembling those of Norway, are scenes of beauty such as are rarely surpassed in the most favored lands of the globe. On leaving the rugged coast-line we find the outer interior to be a hilly country with eminences of no great elevation. The inner interior is a elevated undulating plateau traversed here and there by ranges of low hills, the surface being diversified by valleys, woods, countless lakes and ponds, and numerous marshes, which are generally shallow and could easily be drained. A large part of the surface of the island is covered with these lakes and lakelets, abounding in trout and other fishes.

Hon. Robert Bond, K. C. M. G.

Premier and Colonial Secretary.

NEWFOUNDLAND.

Pastoral Scene.

MOUNTAIN AND HILL RANGES.

All the great hill ranges have a N. N. E. and S. S, W. trend, and all the other great physical features of the country, such as the bays, larger lakes, rivers and valleys have a similar direction, the cause of this conformation being doubtless glacial action. The most important range of mountains is Long Range, which commences at Cape Ray, and runs in a continuous chain in a northeasterly direction for 200 miles, terminating in the Petit Nord peninsula. The Cape Anguille Range, and the Blomidons are also on the west coast; and the Black River, North Harlock, Sawyers and Chissel Hills on the east side of the island. The Avalon peninsula is traversed by an eastern and western range. Over the interior are distributed a number of isolated sharply peaked summits, which spring abruptly from the central plateau. They bear the local name of «Tolts.» Some of the most conspicuous of these are Hodge's Hill on the

Exploits (2,000 feet), Mount Peyton (1,670 feet), west of Gander Lake, Lobster House, and Mount Musgrave.

RIVERS AND LAKES.

The three largest rivers are the Exploits (200 miles long), falling into Exploits Bay; the Humber (70 miles), falling into Bay of Islands, and the Gander (100 miles). There are numerous smaller streams entitled to rank as rivers.

Grand Lake is the largest in the island (56 miles); Red Indian Lake (37 miles), and Gander Lake, through which a river of the same name flows (33 miles). The scenery of these lakes is generally very fine. The forests are along the valleys traversed by the various rivers and streams.

Hon. W. H. Horwood, Minister of Justice.

Chapter III. Climate

Erroneous ideas regarding the climate are quite as prevalent as the delusions in reference to the soil and its natural products. The bulk of outsiders still fancy that the island is enveloped in almost perpetual fogs in summer, and given over to intense cold and a succession of snow storms in winter. It is true that it partakes of the general character of the North American climate, and is therefore much colder than lands in the same latitude in the Old World, but in the American sense of the term, it is by no means a cold country. Winter sets in as a rule in the beginning of December, and lasts till the middle of April. During this time a snow-mantle of greater or less depth usually covers the ground; but winter is the time for social enjoyments of all kinds, and is far from being unpleasant. Springs are late owing to the Arctic current, but when warmth comes, vegatation is very rapid.

Being insular, the climate is variable and subject to sudden changes. The intense summer heats of the United States and Canada, and the fierce colds of their winters are alike unknown. It is but rarely and then only for a few hours, that the thermometer sinks below zero (Fahr.) in winter; and in summer it is but occasionally that 80° are reached. That the climate is salubrious is evidenced by the robust, healthy appearance of the people, and the great age to which numbers of them live. The Arctic current washing the eastern shores shortens the summer. Fogs are confined to the Great Banks, and to the south and southeast shores. The western coast has a much finer climate than the eastern, and in the spring the vegetation is generally a month in advance of the eastern. Fogs are almost unknown in western Newfoundland and in the interior. The summer though short is generally delightful. The heats are never oppressive and the nights always cool, days bright and balmy often succeed each other for weeks together. Those who wish to escape from the relaxing and oppressive heats of the continent will find an agreeable refuge here. September and October are generally pleasant months, in which the sportsman can enjoy himself in pursuit of caribou, ptarmigan, snipe, curlew, etc. Tornadoes and cyclones are unknown, and thunder storms are rare. Usually the autumn is prolonged into November, and the snow seldom covers the ground permanently till near Christmas.

Hon. E. M. Jackman, Minister of Finance and Customs,

Chapter IV. Scenery

Until somewhat recently the prevalent idea was that the interior of the island was little better than the « Great Dismal Swamp,» full of bogs, repulsive rocks, barren wastes, with here and there a few patches covered with a stunted forest growth, and the whole generally shrouded in a curtain of fog. Fifty years ago, such was the picture of the island as it presented itself to the mind of outsiders. Only within a recent period have these mistaken notions been dispelled and the reality made known. Now that the island has been opened up it is found that it contains large areas of fertile land, great forest growths along its valleys, noble mountain and hill ranges, and some of the most beautiful and enchanting scenery in all this beautiful world. The consequence is that every year witnesses an increasing number of visitors from the outside world — tourists in search of the picturesque, travelers, explorers, health seekers and sportsmen, who carry back with them glowing reports of this « gem of the western world.)) Now that a trans-insular railway, with several branches, belts the island, bringing it within six hours steaming of the neighboring continent; and that steamships have rendered its shores accessible from all quarters, an increasing throng of visitors, especially from the United States and Canada, are finding their way to this newly-foundland, to enjoy its unique scenic beauties, and drink in its health-giving breezes, laden with the breath of ocean. No traveler or tourist ever returns disappointed, but on the contrary they declare that the half had not been told.

A favorite travel-route, now that the new railway to Port-aux- Basques has been completed, will be via North Sydney, Cape Breton. From this port, as will be shown later on, the splendid steamer « Bruce,)) fitted up with every comfort and luxury, conveys passengers ninety-three miles across Cabot Strait in six hours, and lands them at the western terminus of the railway, Port-aux-Basques. The distance from this point to St. John's by rail is 548 miles. The railway passes through the best part of the island, and by it the finest scenery, the best sporting and fishing grounds can be reached, and at different points connection can be made with steamers plying on the various fiords where some of the grandest scenery' is to be found. These bays stretching inland from fifty to ninety miles, exhibit a wonderful variety of views along the great arms which project in all directions, and are the paradise of artists. Along their shores, the lofty cliffs are reflected in their clear bright waters, and countless islands, sometimes of extraordinary beauty, stud their bosoms. They bear a striking resemblance to the fiords of Norway, and their scenery is often not less magnificent. Indeed, both countries present so many points of resemblance that Newfoundland has been justly named « the Norway of the New World.)) Newfoundland, like Norway, has a short but beautiful summer, bright skies, exhilarating atmosphere, a quaint people abundant in insular peculiarities and primitive characteristics, hidden away in nooks remote from all the outer world, worthy of the study of inquiring travelers. Both countries are pierced by great watery ravines presenting scenes of rare beauty. Norway was once as little known as Newfoundland and its beauties as little appreciated; now it is the resort each summer, 'of numerous travelers from all parts of the world, and by its fine system of roads, it has been

Hon. E. P. Morris, O. C, Late Leader Third Party Legislative Assembly rendered readily accessible. The turn of the «New World Norway » has come at length.

As a sanitarium, or health resort, Newfoundland is likely to take a high place, when once proper accommodations for travelers and invalids are provided, and for this, arrangements are now in progress. There is something peculiarly balmy, soothing and yet invigorating in the summer breezes, whether on sea or land, cooling the fevered brain and smoothing the wrinkled brow of care. After a few weeks near the coast, inhaling the salt sea breezes and exposed to the life-giving rays of the sun, the invalid who has come with shattered nerves and fluttering pulse returns with a new supply of iron in his blood, and a sense of well being which makes it a luxury to live. To escape from the sweltering summer heats of New York, Boston, Chicago or Montreal, and to breathe the cool pure air of Terra Nova; to climb its rocky heights, or wander over its plains and « barrens)) bright with wild flowers; to ply the angler's rod or bend the oar in the clear water of its countless lakes, or to explore one of the great fiords amid the wildest and grandest scenery — all this is to the smoke-dried inhabitant of one of the great cities, like passing into a new and better state of existence, and enjoying for a time a purer and better life.

The opinion of two distinguished Americans, who have both traveled very widely, may be quoted in regard to the scenery. Professor Albert S. Bickmore, of the American Museum of Natural History, New York, after a tour in Newfoundland, wrote: « In regard to beauty and grandeur of scenery, health-giving climate and general attractiveness for those whose energies have been lowered by city life, and who seek to recuperate, few countries could surpass Newfoundland. If it were better known hundreds of Americans would every year find their way here. In addition to scenery and pure air, you have salmon and trout fishing to an unlimited extent; and in the fall snipe, curlew and ptarmigan shooting as well as deer stalking, boating on the lakes, driving or walking over its breezy hills; picnicing in such places near St. John's as Petty Harbor, Middle Cove or Topsail ; sketching or photographing your rare scenery, drinking in the oxygen of an atmosphere which at every breath quickens the pulse and puts color in the cheek — what more could the heart of man or woman tourist ask for?»

Professor Hyatt, of Boston, one of the most eminent scientific men of the United States, spent a summer on the west coast, in geological explorations. He wrote as follows regarding the scenery : «The weather favored us while in Newfoundland. We were not detained by fogs and had very few adverse winds. The scenery was superb, and has made all other countries we have passed through since, seem tame and unpicturesque, except indeed the steep mountain cliffs of Cape North, and the vicinity in Cape Breton. I never expect to get so much pleasure combined with intellectual profit out of any future trip. Port-au-Port is a paradise for the artist as well as for the geologist; and the same may be said of Bonne Bay and Bay of Islands. * * * * The climate, vegetation and lovely harbors make the trip along this part of the route a series of delightful surprises.)) The Professor took photographic views of the most striking scenery as they passed along the coast, and obtained a series of most beautifml pictures of scenes which were never before photographed.

Hon. George Knowling, Member Executive Council.

Hon. A. W. Harvey,

Member Executive Council.

Hon. James S. Pitts, Member Executive Council.

Hon.

Member

H J. B. Woods, Executive Council.

Hon. J. D. Ryan, Member Executive Council.

Chapter V. Fisheries

The fisheries of Newfoundland constitute the staple industry of the country. The gathering in of the great sea harvest has been and will long continue to be the main employment of the people. In recent years other industries have been introduced and will continue to expand; but by fishing the bulk of the people have still to earn their daily bread. On the exports of fishery product, the trade of the country mainly depends, and these constitute nearly four-fifths of the annual exports. Out of a population of 210,000, about 56,000 are engaged in catching and curing fish, and 12,000 in all other occupations. The mean annual value of the fishing exports, in recent years, has been about $6,600,000. To this, however, must be added the value of the fish consumed by the people in the country, estimated at $400,000, so that the average annual value of the fisheries of the country is about $7,000,000. The total value of Canadian fisheries, including the salt water, lake and river fisheries, is about $19,000,000. The annual value of Norwegian fisheries is about the same as that of Newfoundland; of United States fisheries, $14,000,000. The value of the whole British American fisheries, including Newfoundland, is over $25,000,- 000. British European fisheries are estimated at $36,000,000.

Cold water seas are essential to the life of the commercial food fishes. In the tropical seas, or even the warm waters of the Gulf Stream, they could not exist any more than the Arctic hare could thrive in the Torrid Zone.

NEWFOUNDLAND.

On the Humber.

washes the coasts of Labrador, Newfoundland, Canada and part of the United States, chilling the atmosphere and bearing on its bosom huge ice-argosies, is the source of the vast fish-wealth which has been drawn on for ages and which promises to continue for ages to come. Wanting this cold river in the ocean, the cod, seals, herrings, mackerel, halibut, hake, etc., which now crowd the northern seas, would be entirely absent.

But this cold current also brings with it the food on which these fishes thrive, and which can never be exhausted. The iceladen current from Baffin's Bay brings with it those forms of marine life, from the diatom to the minute crustacean, to the crab and prawn, together with the molluscous animals, and starfish in profusion. The « slime-food,» as it is called, sustains the minute crustaceans, and these, in turn, furnish food for the herring, which are abundant on the shores, in the bays, and

NEWFOUNDLAND.

especially on the Great Banks. The herring, with multitudes of squid, caplin, etc., are devoured by the cod. When the cod is assimilated by man, the great circle of nature is complete. As long as the Arctic current flows the cod fishery of Newfoundland is assured.

COD FISHERY.

In Newfoundland by far the most important fishery is that of the cod. The product of this fishery constitute nearly threefourths of the whole fishery products of the colony. It is the largest cod fishery in the world. The cod exports average 1,350,000 quintals, of 112 pounds each, per annum. The cod are taken on the shores of the island, on the Great Banks, and on the coast of Labrador. About a fourth of the whole cod export is taken on Labrador. The Bank fishery is now mainly carried on by the French from St. Pierre, and the Americans from Gloucester, Boston and other fishing centres. Only a

On the Hnmber— Flat Bay, Brook Bay, St. George.

On the Humber.

small number, comparatively of Newfoundland vessels, take part in the Bank fishery. In 1896 there were employed in this fishery forty-eight vessels, tonnage 2,652, and 616 men.

Although, in many localities, there have been in recent years, symptoms of declining cod fisheries, such as give grave reason for anxiety, yet the natural conditions are such that the sea harvest can never entirely fail, though it varies greatly, being dependent on winds and weather. The cod is a local fish, and in its migrations passes from the deep waters where it winters, to the shallower and warmer waters near the shore for spawning purposes. The danger lies in over-fishing any locality and taking immature fish before they have reached the reproductive stage. Implements of a deadly and destructive nature are too often used, such as bultows, and also nets with small meshes which destroy the young fish. Close seasons also are not carefully observed. All these injure the cod fishing, so that now, although many more than formerly are engaged in it, the catch is stationary or declining.

Until 1890 there were no properly enforced rules and regulations of the fisheries, but at that date the government and people woke up to the necessity of regulating and protecting them. A Fisheries Department was organized and the services of an able scientific superintendent of fisheries was secured. Artificial propagation of cod and lobsters was commenced and carried on upon a large scale; proper rules were drawn up and enforced. The result has been highly beneficial, and it may be reasonably hoped that under this more enlightened plan, the decline in the fisheries will be arrested and a gradual restoration to former productiveness will be secured. With a vigilant and skillful supervision and a greater care in curing, these fisheries have a brighter future before them and will become increasingly a source of wealth to the country. The