The new cyclopædia of domestic economy, and practical housekeeper. Adapted to all classes of society and comprising subjects connected with the interests of every family, and five thousand practical receipts and maxims. From the best English, French, German, and American sources

Front matter

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Adopted by

Preface

departments filled by servants, and the superintendence of the mistress ; the laying in of stores and purchases in market; the art of making and arranging things used every day, and of setting out a table to advantage ; the care of children, and the best food for them ; the preparations most useful for invalids; the attendance at meals, and various matters in household management which no book before this has ever taught in detail, but which are commonly left to the slow teaching of individual experience. While endeavoring to make this manual or cyclopedia so complete as to meet all the wants of those who lack knowledge, care has been taken to arrange the various departments with clearness and method. A carefully prepared and copious index will at once direct the reader to any thing wanted.

In the department of Cookery, arranged under forty-five heads, an unusually large variety of recipes is given for the styles in every-day living- — soups, meats, sauces, &c., because it was desirable to include the latest improvements, and because the want of variety in such preparations is usually complained of in American cookery. The French having so much the advantage of us, it is as well to learn something more of their boasted art, that those who choose may avail themselves of the knowledge. A number of choice recipes, therefore, from very recent French and English works, have been added to those contributed by American housekeepers

PREFACE. 9

of long experience and tried skill. Several valuable recipes, never before made public, have been furnished for this work by Delmonico, Taylor, Wagner, Sneckner, and other proprietors of celebrated establishments in New York.

The Toilet Department, and Perfumery, Cosmetics, &c., do not strictly belong to housekeeping ; but every lady must desire some knowledge of them, and it is convenient to have a manual containing instructions as to the compounding of articles required for the hair and complexion. The fair reader will not object to the space and attention devoted to these matters.

The Family Medical Guide is not designed to interfere with the province of the physician, but to furnish simple and approved recipes for use when medical advice cannot be procured, and palliatives to promote the comfort of the sick. All these recipes have been submitted to a prominent physician, and approved by him.

The section appropriated to the sick is unusually comprehensive, containing many new recipes. The Miscellaneous Department is also enriched with several tried and excellent ones, never before published. The numerous illustrative cuts, which are found in no other volume, will help to explain the method and use of various housekeeping articles. E. F. E.

Chapter XIII

The Manufacture and Use of Cements, . 69 CHAPTER XI Y.

Powdering, Grinding, &c., . . .72

PAGE

. 74

CHAPTER XY.

Knots, Parcels, &c., .

CHAPTER XYI.

Adulteration of Food and Purity of W ater, 7 8 CHAPTER XVII.

Boiling, Stewing, &c.,

CHAPTER XVIII.

Economy of Heat, ...

CHAPTER XIX.

Cleaning and Disinfecting,

CHAPTER XX.

Fermenting and Distilling,

CHAPTER XXI.

Laying out Tables and Folding Napkins, . 94 CHAPTER XXII.

Trussing and Carving,

CHAPTER XXIII.

Culinary Dtensils,

CHAPTER XXIV.

Cookery as an Art,

CHAPTER XXV.

Foreign Terms used in Cookery,

CHAPTER XXVI.

Condiments, ....

CHAPTER XXVII.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Hints and Maxims, .

CHAPTER XXIX.

Articles in Season for each Month,

. 103

. 116

. 124

. 126

. 129

. 136

. 143

CONTENTS.

PAGE

PAGE

PART II. Custards, Creams, Jellies, &c

. 473 . 486

Receipts for Soups, .

. 155

Coffee, Tea and Chocolate,

. 494

Meat Soups, ....

. 156

.Preserves, &c., ....

. 498

Soups of Game, Poultry, &c., .

. in

Beverages, ....

. 510

Vegetables, ....

. 179

Wines and Liqueurs,

. 514

Fish Soups, ....

. 185

. 517

Fish,

. 188

Food and Cookery for Children,

. 526

Shell Fish, ....

. 204

Savory Dishes for Breakfast,

. 529

Sauces for Fish,

. 214

Bills of Fare, ....

. 532

Gravies, Sauces, &c.,

Ketchups,

Farces and Stuffings,

. 218

. 242 . 243

PART m.

Receipts for Dressing Beef,

. 249

Perfumery, ....

. 537

Receipts for Dressing Veal,

. 276

Essences and Extracts,

. 538

Receipts for Dressing Mutton, .

. 296

Compound Odors, or Bouquets,

. 542

Receipts for Dressing Lamb,

. 311

Spirituous Infusions,

. 543

Receipts for Dressing Pork,

. 318

Oils for the Hair,

. 545

Sausages and Forcemeat, .

. 337

Cosmetics,

. 546

Curing Meat, Potting and Collaring,

. 341

Powders, . . . .

. 546

Poultry and Game,

. 356

Soaps,

. 547

Venison,

. 374

Cold Creams, ....

. 547

Vegetables, ....

. 376

Pommades, ....

. 548

Salads,

. 390

Salves and Balsams, .

. 549

Pickles and Store Room Sauces,

. 393

Vinegars,

. 549

Paste, Meat, Game and Fish Pies,

. 406

Salts,

Fruit Pies, Puffs, &c.,

. 425

Cassolettes, ....

. 551

Puddings,

. 436

Sachets,

. 552

. 439

Hair Washes, ....

. 553

Italian Pastes, ....

. 450

Fumigating Paper,

. 553

Rice,

Pastilles for Necklaces, Bracelets, &c., . 554

Cheese, '

. 454

Hair Dyes, . . . “

. 554

Pancakes, Fritters,

. 457

Depilatory, . . . . *

. 555

Various Modes of Cooking Eggs,

. 459

Shaving Pastes, ....

. 555

To Make Bread,

. 464

The Family Medical Guide,

. 556

Biscuits and Warm Cakes,

. 467

. 567

Butter, . . .

Index,

. 588

Part First. Thoughts And Maxims On Housekeeping

THE

PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER.

PART I.

THOUGHTS AND MAXIMS 4DN HOUSEKEEPING.

Chapter I

Dr. Stark says, “ The only test of the utility of knowledge is its promotion of the happiness of mankind.” Viewed thus, the subject we are about to treat presents claims superior to most others, and is eminently worthy of study. The superintendence of a house, and the management, forethought, domestic economy, and good sterling sense requisite for the discharge of this duty, demand application and perseverance, and ought to receive as much, at least, as is bestowed on the acquisition of music, painting, or any of the ornamental accomplishments. Young ladies are educated to shine in society; would it not be well if they were also sedulously taught — by a system of training — to perform the homely duties which make home the abode of comfort ?

It has been said that Americans in general have little attachment to home. Often, indeed, is the domestic comfort, so prized in England, absent from the abodes even of the wealthy, in our land. May not this undeniable fact, and the roving propensity of young people in this country, be attributable to the circumstance that girls, whose condition exempts them from servitude, are brought up wholly without reference to home duties ? Even those who may depend on their own labor for a subsistence, are taught some trade, or superficially qualified as teachers, or instructed in various branches of needlework ; while they know little or nothing of household matters ; though such knowledge would enable them to command an independence. It is not alone the wife and mother who should be skilled in domestic affairs ; every girl who has emerged from childhood, is liable to be called on to take charge of a house. If the mother is bedridden, or deceased, why should the father of daughters sixteen or eighteen years old be compelled to look elsewhere for a housekeeper, and intrust the management to the hands of a stranger ?

The general cultivation of this valuable knowledge, too, would make the occupation of a “ help,” or servant, more acceptable to thousands who now prefer starvation in a garret, or the ruin of health in sedentary employments. The more attention is turned to this branch of learning, the more will its importance be recognized, and the higher place will it assume in the list of useful arts ; and a degree of respect being accorded to those who excel, more will be found ready to engage in it as a profession. What an improvement would be made, by such a result, in our social and domestic life !

We would not be understood to say

THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER.

that we would have a woman merely an upper servant in the house it is her province to guide, or that we undervalue intellectual attainments and elegant occupations. But it will not detract from the charm of these, nor from the dignity of the well-bred lady — to be familiar with the routine of domestic duties, well acquainted with the minutiae of household economy, and competent to direct, or if need be, teach her servants ; ay, even, to do things herself in cases^of necessity. On the other hand, will it not enhance admiration and strengthen regard, to see that she possesses these acquirements, and is willing to exercise them to promote the comfort of others ? Who can tell that she may not. at some period of life, be thrown into circumstances where the mere fine lady would be utterly helpless, or where intellectual refinement and distinguished position may prove less available than industry, ingenuity, and practical common sense ?

What is a kingdom, a merchant’s counting-house, or a mechanic’s workshop without a head? We do not mean a mere master, but a presiding intellect to plan, contrive, direct, and guide. Not less absolute or important is the rule of a sensible woman in her own home. She has full scope for the exercise of good taste, prudence, and refinement. She is invested with an amount of responsibility she perhaps never dreamed of, for her influence over the temper, habits, actions, and dispositions of those about her is very great, and great in proportion should be her self-government, for with self the command must begin, if it is to be worth having.

There is much talk, nowadays, about the “ rights ” and “ mission ” of woman. Without entering into the merits of the subject, we would only say, that if women, from the highest to the lowest, were systematically educated to wield properly the great power they indubitably possess

— a power which can be made to move the secret springs of action and the machinery of business— they would have little reason to complain of the want of influence ; and were they so trained to enter actively and energetically into domestic employments and affairs, that none could deem it a pursuit unworthy of them, , they would find ample scope for the exercise of their faculties, and the acquisition of means to live.

There is a medium, however, in all things. A woman who worries all within her reach by her ultra-housewifery, who damps one down with soap and water, poisons one with furniture polish, takes away one’s appetite by the trouble there is about cooking the simplest thing, and fidgets one by over-done tidiness and cleanliness, is almost as much to be avoided as a downright slut, or the veriest simpleton who ever took counsel with her stupid servant as to how long a potato ought to be boiled ; she exercises a pernicious influence on all, and is a misery to herself and others.

Neither would we have domestic economy and home duties vaunted, or made the constant theme of conversation ; they are the private employments of a woman ; she must study other things in order to entertain her relatives and friends. Those who talk most of their duties are generally those who perform them most imperfectly. When a man returns to his home, or enters his sitting-room, fatigued and perhaps disappointed by the business of the day, he does not want to be annoyed by the detail of domestic accidents, the misdemeanors of servants, and the cheating of tradespeople ; he has had his worries during the day, too, and, with that pride, or reserve, or want of confidence which is peculiar to most men, he perhaps keeps them to himself. Let his example be followed in all cases where advice, or support, assistance is not absolutely necessary,

FEMALE EDUCATION.

and pleasant, cheerful themes be chosen, or some amusement selected which shall render the evening and leisure hours those of relaxation and enjoyment, and tend to give a charm and zest to home which no other place can possess. Men are free to come and go as they list, they have so much liberty of action, so many out-door resources if wearied with in-doors, that it is good policy, if nothing else, to make home attractive as well as comfortable.

An education in household matters should be complete — comprising the knowledge requisite for use in all departments.

Many a girl can make good pastry, jellies, &c., for an evening party, and being much complimented for her labors by those who relish the produce, forthwith fancies herself a capital housewife, while, in all probability, she scarcely knows how vegetables are cooked, is profoundly ignorant of the prices of the commonest articles of daily consumption, and could not tell of what material a housecloth ought to be made. And how few there are who could, in case of need, make a cup of good gruel, or a glass of white-wine* whey, or even a little broth or barley-water! We do not say that they could not manage to produce something resembling these things, but the capricious appetite of the invalid would reject the tasteless messes. Many have suffered martyrdom from this one neglected branch of female education.

Perhaps few branches of female education are more useful than great readiness in figures. Accounts should be regularly kept, and not the smallest article omitted to be entered. If balanced every week or month, the income and outgoings will be ascertained with facility, and their proportions to each other duly observed. Some people fix on stated sums to be appropriated to each different article, as house, clothes, pocket,

I education of children, &c. Whatever may be the amount of household expenditure, a certain mode should be adopted and strictly adhered to. Besides the regular account-book, in which the receipt of money and every payment should be regularly entered, a common-place book should be always at hand for the entry of observations regarding agreements with servants, tradesmen, and various other subjects, so as to enable the lady at once to ascertain the exact state of the affairs under her immediate management.

A minute account of the annual income and the times of payment should be taken in writing; likewise an estimate of the supposed amount of each article of expense ; and those who are early accustomed to calculations on domestic articles will acquire so accurate a knowledge of what their establishment requires, as will enable them to keep the happy medium between prodigality and parsimony.

Some aver that they have no capacity for this matter, no taste for that. But if the things referred to are duties, cultivate a taste — persevere in endeavoring to improve a capacity for them. This world is a beautiful one, spite of what grumblers say, and thousands would find it a much happier one if they studied more what they ought to do, and sought their pleasure or indulged their fancies less. Every human being exercises some influence on the character, happiness and destinies of others, and is accountable for opportunities wasted, and blessings neglected or transformed. This is especially true of women. Every sensible, high-minded, right- hearted woman, be she peeress or peasant — is, or may be, a blessing to many.; if not by great deeds or achievements the world calls heroic, by a simple, quiet, straightforward performance of the duties which lie before her, and are therefore given her to do.

THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER.

As it is the business of man to provide the means of living comfortably, so it is the province of woman to dispose judiciously of those means, and maintain order and harmony in all things. On her due performance of her part rest the comfort and social peace of home ; while misery and ruin follow her neglect. Some women, it is true, are placed in an unnatural position by having the burden of supporting the family thrown upon them. They have double duties, and a harder part to sustain; but their toils may be materially lightened by care and method in what they have to do.

So much by way of exordium. We shall now proceed through the various matters appertaining to a house, endeavoring to present a clear chart of the necessarjr business, pointing out hidden rocks, and showing how these may be avoided, and the vessel sent to float in calm waters. With much labor we have collected information on all subjects that fall within the proper scope of housekeeping ; and multifarious as these are, it is our belief that she who consults our index will be sure to find whatever she can wish to know.

Chapter II

That sensible and oft-quoted old lady, Mrs. Glasse, begins one of her recipes thus : “ First catch your hare.” Following so good an example, we will first take a house and furnish it, before laying down axioms for its management.

Before any steps are taken, the income or pecuniary means of the parties about to commence housekeeping, should be well considered. It is not well to rush into matrimony without due attention to such sublunary matters as dollars and cents ; for the notion that when once a couple is married, all will go right, is a foolish one. A young man with an income of four or five hundred dollars, every cent of which has been annually swallowed up by his own expenses, falls in love with a young lady who can sing and play well, speak French and produce marvels in the way of crochet or ornamental work, who loves sentimental poetry and romance, and can trim herself a neat bonnet ; but knows little of the realities of life. Having never known what it is to want any thing — she has no idea that any thing can be wanted. The young man feels certain in his own mind that a wife will be an actual saving to him ; and makes an eloquent declaration of his affection. The prospect for the future is but slender; for he ignores the fact that he has been accustomed to spend half his income on clothes and amusements, which he does not think of doing without ; and she forgets how much she is in the habit of spending on gloves, ribbons, perfumes, et cetera. When they are married — the bridal dress and entertainment not being reckoned among their expenses— they find themselves fettered by a thousand inconveniences, and obliged to deny themselves travelling and many other kinds of recreation ; more than that, they discover that the etiquette of this enlightened age, imperiously demands reckless expenditure, when common sense would advise more than usual economy; and without losing the social position they aim to preserve, they can do nothing but submit. What an effect on the success of after-life must be such a beginning ! '

However, we do not consider it our mission to enter on Quixotic quarrels with the ways of the world. It is, as our young people soon find —

“ A very good world to live in,

To lend, to spend, or to give in ;

But to beg, or borrow, or get one’s own,

’Tis the very worst world that ever was known.”

In taking a house, the first matters to

THE DWELLING-HOUSE.

be considered, are the rent we can afford to give, or the money that can be devoted to its purchase, and the locality that suits us best.

A dwelling in town affords many opportunities for social intercourse, amusement, and the acquisition of general knowledge ; a suburban residence offers some advantages in healthiness of location and convenience. The remote country has a distinct class of enjoyments, though want of society often makes time pass slowly. Where locality is not specified, always choose one as open and airy as may be, and where the soil, or at any rate the subsoil, is not clay, where the drainage is good, and there is an ample supply of water, and no neighboring factories giving out noxious gases and poisonous smoke and vapor. Too close a vicinity to a churchyard is likewise to be avoided. Of course, the house must be capable of accommodating the family who are to occupy it, and there should always be a spare room or two which can be used for bed-rooms, or other purposes in case of emergency. There should' be closets, cellars, &c., and good ventilation front and back. A fee to a well-qualified surveyor is often well bestowed ; fqr he may detect serious faults in a house which, to an ordinary observer, seems well built and comfortable.

The agreement with the landlord should be clearly understood, and all liabilities as to taxes, local rates, house repairs, with charges for fixtures, &c., inquired into, and definitely arranged, before the agreement is signed.

It will be well for every house to have some shelter at its entrance ; a porch or portico, in a style regulated by that of the rest of the building, will be found useful. A hall, vestibule, or entry, is essential, and the size and location of the staircases considerably affect the convenience of the dwelling. The dining-room should be so placed that the way to it from the kitchen is easy, and yet so that the noise or odors do not prove annoying. The general style of the drawing-room should be light andfv cheerful ; that of the library plain and quiet. The bed-chambers should be as lofty and spacious as possible, and so contrived that a thorough draught can be obtained, to change the air completely. Each should have a chimney fireplace. Small closets and recesses are to be avoided as sleeping apartments. The nursery should be near the chamber of the mistress.

Dressing and bath-rooms should be as uniformly attached to bed-rooms as the size of the house and means of the owner will permit ; the bath is an indispensable convenience. Every house should be provided with two water-closets at least. In large establishments, a breakfast-room looking eastward and with glass doors opening on a garden or lawn, a billiardroom for exercise within doors, a room for hunting and fishing tackle, a gallery for music, paintings, or statuary, a lady’s boudoir or sitting-room tastefully ornamented, a school-room, and domestic laboratory, with a conservatory, are convenient additions. A number of rooms for domestic offices are connected with the house, and various cellars, as well as separate buildings, appropriated to many different purposes — which we shall not describe particularly. The kitchen will be examined under another head.

In contriving the mode of warming a house, attention should be paid not merely to economy of fuel, but to the preservation of a salubrious atmosphere. A chimney fireplace or* grate is preferable to a stove, which is apt to give the air a close or disagreeable smell, and produce headache and stupor. Count Kumford imagined that the hot iron roasted the dust that settled on it, which dust was composed of all sorts of animal and vegetable matters ; others complain of

THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER.

the extreme dryness of the air. Stoves of brick or earthenware, used in various parts of Europe, are said to be better than irofc; but all close stoves are liable to the objection, that in using them it is difficult to change the air continually, or procure proper ventilation. The same difficulties prevail, to some extent, in warming a house by a furnace, and the dryness of the air is often productive of discomfort. Steam might afford an agreeable and convenient method of warming apartments. Of all the modes usually adopted, the advantage seems to lie TVith the open fire. The temperature should be steady and not too high : say 60° or 62°. Apartments in our cities are generally kept at a dangerous degree of heat. Bed-rooms should not be warmed, more than to have the “ outside chill ” taken off.

Ventilation is a very important consideration. The atmospheric air in breathing loses the constituent that sustains life, and must be got rid of, and replaced by air that is fresh and pure. This change of air should be continually going on in our apartments. Windows that open at the top are useful, the vitiated air ascending to the ceiling. The practice of sleeping in rooms not sufficiently ventilated, is utterly destructive to health. It should be remembered also that the vital part of air is exhausted by a burning light. It would be well to have a ventilator in the centre of the ceiling, which can be concealed by ornamental work in plaster ; and in the admission of fresh air, care should be taken that it does not come in a direct stream, so as to produce unpleasant draughts.

It is often necessary to fumigate or disinfect the air contaminated by noxious effluvia. Muriatic acid and nitric acid fumes have been employed for this purpose, and chlorine, a most effectual agent in destroying noxious qualities in the air, is generally employed. Chloride of lime and chloride of soda are used as the most convenient preparations. The latter is called Labarraque’s Disinfecting Liquid. Vinegar is used in sick rooms, and quick lime, alone or mixed with ashes, in sinks, sewers, &c.

Having taken our house, it generally wants a thorough cleaning and airing. In spring, autumn, and winter, fires should be kept for three or four days, according to the time the house has been empty, and to the repairs it has undergone during that interval ; for of course nobody ought to enter a house in the state of dirt and disrepair in which it is usually left by an out-going tenant, or if they do so under the notion that the landlord will set it all to rights after they are in, they will find out their mistake, and repent their confidence.

It sometimes happens that the chief rooms are not papered and painted until the house is let. In such case the in-coming tenant generally has the power of choosing the papers, or panellings, and paint. He will, of course, select such as will best harmonize with the color which the furniture and hangings should have.

We will now suppose the house taken, cleaned thoroughly , and well aired, and will proceed to furnish it. But first we must pause to observe that young people will do well carefully to consider matters before they take upon themselves the troubles and responsibilities of housekeepers. Where their joint savings, or some sum especially bestowed for the purpose by friends or parents, will enable them to make the necessary outlay for furniture, linen, &c., and yet have something left to put by for “ a wet day,” and the rent and taxes can be afforded by the income of the husband, it is all well and good. But if money must be borrowed, or debts incurred, begin life in the quietest way, rather than with these incumbrances. Take board or apartments

FURNISHING A HOUSE.

for a time, until you see your way clear. From $150 to $400 a year will pay for part of a house in a city, and much less in a village. Board can be obtained in respectable houses at four or five dollars a week and upwards in our largest towns. There are some disadvantages in this mode of living. It is customary to say that boarders are victimized; one is sometimes brought into contact with disagreeable individuals, who become enemies if they find they are not received in a sociable or friendly manner ; and on the whqle, it is wiser to keep house with three or four rooms. There are always respectable families to be found, who will let a set of apartments.

Now to the business of furnishing a house.

Chapter III

Here again the unsentimental consideration of dollars and cents obtrudes itself. The limit to which we can go is dependent upon the funds in hand which may be expended without incurring debt or causing inconvenience.

It would be curious to trace the history of furniture in different ages and countries. But we have no space for such a review. The taste has been revived of late years, for pieces of ancient furniture, and the skill of cabinetmakers has been brought into requisition to produce imitations of the antique style, or tasteful restorations, by the putting together of fragments, interesting from singular or historical associations.

Window curtains contribute much to the comfort and elegance of apartments, tempering the light, and excluding the cold air. They may be of various patterns and materials.

The hall, or entry, should be furpished with an umbrella and hat stand, and.

chairs or hall seats. If there is a closet for hanging up hats-, cloaks, &c., it should be near the door. Door scrapers should always be placed at the entrant.

Pictures on the Wall.

Pictures, if well chosen, add much to the appearance of a room, and impart to it an air of completeness, and a home look, which many people know how to appreciate. To produce this effect, the subjects of the pictures must be such as we can truly sympathize with, something to awaken our admiration, reverence, or love. All the feelings of our nature may be illustrated by pictures. There are some which we seem to make bosom companions of ; others have a moral effect, and at times prevent our going astray by their silent monitions. It is, therefore, worth while to take pains and choose good subjects, whether in engravings or paintings, and to frame and hang them suitably when chosen. Gilt frames are most suitable for rather dark paintings, and on a deep colored wall ; while prints look well in a frame of composition, oak, rose-wood, or bird’s-eye maple, finished with a gilt moulding. Care should be taken to hang them in a proper light, so as best to bring out all the effects of the pictures, and to place them so that the light shall fall from the same side as represented by the painter. In picture galleries and great houses, brass rods are fixed all around the room close to the ceiling, from which the pictures are hung, but in small rooms it is often best not to show the lines or wires by which the pictures hang. This is done by nailing a strong cord across the back, about two inches below the top, and then suspending it from two nails standing out but a little way from the wall. When there are several pictures in a room, the ordinary rule is, to have either the upper or lower edge of the frames in a line, on whichever side they may be hung.