Narrative of a residence in Ireland during the summer of 1814, and that of 1815

Front matter

IzJ

[*! A>'I*E FLUMPTJS e

Published !" ff,>u ,■ Cotburn >■■.■>>- \ ./-■,■./ London i&6

Preface

JCiNCOURAGED by the very flattering reception with which the Narrative of my Residence in France was favoured by an indulgent Public, I now venture again to appear before them in the character of a Traveller ; trusting that the subject of the present Narrative will not appear of less interest, or less deserving of attention than the former.

If curiosity be deeply awakened, if interest be warmly excited, by inquiring into the circumstances and situation of nations not immediately, to use a familiar image, among our own connexions, who stand but, as it were, in the light of common acquaintance to us, — if we are anxious to be introduced to a knowledge of the face of their country, to understand its natural advantages and disadvantages, its customs and manners, its civil and political state, that we may be enabled to compare them with our own, and judge between them and ourselves, — a much deeper interest will surely be excited when these inquiries, these comparisons, relate to an object so near to us as a Sister. And, though the public attention has of late years been much directed towards that Sister, I am yet willing to hope some gleanings will here be found not wholly destitute of novelty ; some new colouring may perhaps, at least, be thrown over objects not in themselves entirely new, the lights and the shades may be differently distributed ; while, though old friends with new faces are things we are always disposed to deprecate, it may not be altogether displeasing to see them arrayed in new clothing.

In collecting the materials for this work, my constant aim has been to examine every object with accuracy, to pursue every inquiry with

VI PREFACE.

impartiality. In narrating the result of my investigations, I have looked to fidelity as my polar star, — that has never been sacrificed at the shrine of embellishment and amusement; though, I must own, I have been at the same time very ambitious that truth should be dressed in an amusing garb.

I have great obligations to acknowledge to many friends for assistance given in the prosecution of the work. My thanks are more particularly due to the two gentlemen by whom I was favoured with the principal part of the sketches for the engravings. Most of them were taken at my own particular desire, with a view to the illustration of my work : those that were not so, were furnished me by a friend who had visited the spots from which they were taken two or three years previous to my visiting them. In making the drawings, according to my very earnest request, the strictest fidelity has been observed. I have,, in the course of my work, reprobated the too common practice among artists, of rather aiming at forming a pleasing combination of objects, than delineating the spot such as it really is : but I trust it will not be found in any of the plates here given, that the efforts of imagination are wanted to add interest to the scenes.

To the public candour and judgement, then, the whole is submitted ; — while I shall wait its verdict with the most anxious expectation, till a decidedly unfavourable one be pronounced I shall not be able to refuse myself the gratification of indulging pleasing hopes, founded on the animating recollection of past favours.

ANNE PLUMPTRE.

Part I

COMPRISING THE JOURNEY AND VOYAGE TO DUBLIN AND STAY IN THAT CITY, AND A TOUR ROUND THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM, PART OF THE COUNTY OF DOWN, AND PART OF THE COUNTY OF VVICKLOW.

Chapter I

Commentary on the Maxim te When we are at Rome, we should do as they do at Rome." — Friendly Advice. — Determination to embark at Bristol. — Visit to Bath. — The Hampton Stone Quarries near Bath. — Rejoicings for the Peace. — An Ox roasted whole. — Visit to Bristol. — Result of friendly Advice. — Determination to proceed and embark at Liverpool. — Mineralogical Anecdote. — Birmingham. - - 1

Chapter II

Tedious Foyage to Ireland. — Arrival in Dublin Bay. — Obliged to anchor there. — Importunities of the Boatmen to row the Passengers on Shore, and their exorbitant Demands. — The Pier. — The Light-House. — The shelly Bank. — The North and South Bull. — The Bathing- Houses. — The Pigeon-House. — Beautiful Scenery round the Bay. — Arrival in the City of Dublin. - - - - - - Page 7

Chapter III

Origin of the City of Dublin and of its Name. — Present Extent of the City. — The National Bank. — The Custom-House. — The Four Courts. — Trinity College. — The Library. — The Fagel Library. — The Manuscript -Room. — The Quin Library. — Curious Work undertaken by Dr. Barret. — The College Chapel. — The Examination- Room. — Monument to Dr. Baldwin. — The Museum. — The Moose Deer. — The new Botanic Garden. - - - - - - ---14

Chapter IV

Renewal of an old Acquaintance. — The Dublin Society. — Mr. Prior its Founder. — Collection of Minerals. — Meteoric Stone. — Carthaginian Axes. — The Library. — Collection of Casts.— Exhibition- Room. — Botanic Garden.-— Removal of the Society to

Vlll CONTENTS.

Leinster-House. — The Dublin Institution. — The Royal Irish Academy. — The Castle. — The Exchange. — The Commercial Buildings. — The Post-Office. - Page 24

Chapter V

Saint Patrick's Cathedral. — Dr. Marsh's Library. — Bust and Picture of Dean Swift at the Deanery. — Mr. Monk Mason. — Cathedral of Christ- Church. — Earl Strongbow's Monument. — Lord Bowes' s. — Lord Kildare's. — Mr. Prior's. — Ruins of the Four Courts. — Ancient Archway. — Saint Werburgh's Church. — Saint George's Church. — Saint Andrew's or the Round Church. — Other Places of Worship. - - 32

Chapter VI

The Lying-in Hospital. — The Rotunda. — The Foundling Hospital. — The Blue-Coat Hospital. — Kilmainham Hospital. — Other Charitable Institutions. — The House of Industry.— The Beggars. — The Black Cart. — Sir Arthur Clarke and his Baths. — Singular Talent of Lady Clarke. — College of Surgeons . — Markets. — Potatoes. - 40

Chapter VII

The River Anna Liffey. — The Bridges. — Carlisle Bridge. — Essex Bridge. — Sarah Bridge. — Richmond Bridge. — Stephen's Green. — Embellishments there. — Shelburne House. — The Mansion- House. — Equestrian Statue of George the First. — Merrion- Square. — Leinster-House. — College Green. — Statue of William the Third. — Sackville-Street. — Pillar to Lord Nelson. — Other Squares and Streets. — Catholic Priest's Funeral. — Jingles, and Jaunting Cars. - - - - 48

CHAPTER VI U.

Mr. Kean, and his first Appearance on the Dublin Stage. — Remarks on the comparative Merit of this Gentleman and Mr. Kemble. — The Theatre in Crow-Street. — Some Particulars of the Rise and Progress of the Irish Stage. — Other Theatres. — Government Nights. _--_____ 56

Chapter IX

Black-Rock, and Sunday Parlies to it. — Sir Edward Newenham and his two Daughters. — Sea-Point. — Villages of Dunleary and Dalkey. — Chapel-Isod. — Lucan. — Leixlip and the Salmon Leap. — Excursion to Hoiuth. — Battle of Clontarf. — Family of Lord Howth. — His Castle. — The Square Round-Tower. — New Pier at Howth.— Projected Canal.— The Quarries. — The Light-House. — Ireland's Eye. — Island of Lambay. — Malahide. — Church of Saint Doulach. — The Circular Road.— The Grand Canal.— ■ — The Phcenix Park. - -._ _ _ -72

GONTBNTS. IX

Chapter X

Visit to Ravenswell. — The Dargle. — Mr. Grattan's Seat at Tinnuhinch. — Lord Powerscourt's Seat at Powerscourt. — Unfortunate End of t lie Duke of Dorset. — The Waterfall at Powerscourt. — The Hermitage. — The Glen of the Downs. — Mr. Latouche's House at Belle-Vue. — Village of Delgeny. — Bray-Head. — Great Sandbank. — Mr. Weld Harlstonge. — Mr. Henry Mason.— Origin of " My Pocket-Book." Page 82

Chapter XI

Departure from Dublin. — Swords. — Drogheda. — Dundalk Bay. — The Weeping-ash Tree. — Town of Dundalk. — Hilsborough. — Lisburn. — The Valley of the Lagan. — Arrival at Belfast. — Flourishing State of this Town. — Places of Worship. — The ■New Chapel. — Charitable Institutions. — Literary Societies. — Manufactories. — Belfast Lough. — Dr. Macdonnell. — His Collection of Drawings, Minerals, &c. — Mr. Ryan. - - - -- - - -91

Chapter XII

The Valley of the Lagan. — Divis Mountain. — The Gypsum Quarry. — The Cave-Hill. ~—Carrickfergus. — Island Magee. — The Town and Bay of Lame. — The Goblins. — Reputed Massacre there. — Promontory of Bally gelly. — Cairn-Castle. — Town of Glenarm. — Enormous marine Plants. — Garron- Point, and steep Descent there. — Red Bay. — Cushendall. — Civil Attentions of a Scotchman there. — Adventures of the Night.

— Cushendun, audits Caves. — Vast Tract of Bog. — Arrival at Bally castle. - 100

Chapter XIII

Ascent of the Mountain Knock-Laid. — The Limestone Quarries, and Organic Remains. — Plants and Mosses. — Promontory of Benmore, or Fairhead. — Alarming Adventure of a Gentleman and Lady there. — Migration of the Eels. — The Island of Rathlin.

— Its turbulent Sea. — Doon-Point, and its Basaltic Pillars. — Uskut. — Burning Kelp. — Visit from Mr. Conolly, Minister of Ballycastle. — The Fata Morgana. — The Collieries. - - - - - - - -115

Chapter XIV

The Rock, and curious Rope-Bridge at Carrick-a-Rede. — Ballintoy. — Dunseveric Castle. — Walk round the Rock- Heads. — Promontory of Pleaskin, with its beautiful Colonnades. — The Giants' Causeway. — Remarks on its Length and Extent. — Inaccuracy of the Plates generally given of it. — Different Minerals found about it. — Port Noffer. — The Chimney -tops. — Legend respecting the Causeway. — Port Coane3 Cave and remarkable Rock there. --_-.__. 128

b

X CONTENTS.

Chapter XV

On the general Characters of Basalt, with an Attempt to account for its Columnar Structure.— Remarks on Rocks of a similar Nature. — And an Idea of the original Etymology of the word Basalt. {By Thomas Hare, Esq. F.L.S. &c. &c. &c.) Page 143

Chapter XVI

Dunluce- Castle. — Craig-in-Ullar. — Coleraine. — Salmon-Leap and Fishery. — Sir Hervey Bruce 's Seal at Down-Hill. — Ballymoney and the Races there. — Specimen of Irish Play-Bills. — Divorce between the Car and one of its Wheels. — Conversation over the Fire-side of a Village Public-House. — The Wonders of the Town of Kilcock. — Christian Charity of a Saint. — The Moravian Village at Grace- Hill. — Shanes- Castle. — Antrim. — Return to Belfast. . - - - --152

CHAPTER xvrr.

Visit to Hollywood near Belfast. — Sail upon the Lough. — Mr. Coulson's Manufactory of Table -Linen at Lisburn. — The Giants' Ring. — Drumbo Steeple. — Final Departure from Belfast. — Newcastle, a great Bathing-place. — Mountain of Slieve Donard. — Kilkeele. — Bay of Carlingford. — Beautiful Scenery of Rostrevor. — The Town of Carlingford and its Antiquities .^Great Limestone Quarry there. — The Obelisk near Drosheda. — Return to Dublin. - - - - 163

Chapter XVIII

Mr. Kean's Benefit, Anecdote respecting it. — Excursion in the County of Wicklow. ~ Rockinv- Stones. — Bullock. — The Granite Rocks. — Newrath- Bridge. — Rosanna. — The Devil's Glen. — Giendaloch. — Legend of St. Kevin. — The Seven Churches. — Glen Molaur, Lead-Mines there. — Rathdrum. — Avondale. — Meeting of the Waters.-— Copper Mines of Cronebawn. — The beautiful Vale of Avoca. — Wicklow Gold-Mine. — Arklow. — Wicklow. — The Scalp. — Return to Dublin. - - - 170

Chapter XIX

Departure from Ireland. — Passage to Holyhead. — The Rope-Bridge. — Custom-House Officers. — The Blind Harper. — Bog-Wood in the Lie of Anglesea. — The Mona Passaae. — Bangor Ferry. — Tediousness of the Welsh Postillions. — Fall of the Conway. — Lake of Ogwen. — Capel Kerrig. — Glyndyffis. — The beautiful Vale of Corwen. — Castle Dinas Bran. — Harper at Llangollen. — Anecdote respecting the Ladies of Llangollen. — Stay at Gresford. — Lord Grosvenor's House at Eaton. — Return to London. -.-

Part II

COMPRISING A SECOND VISIT TO DUBLIN. A TOUR ROUND OTHER PARTS OF THE

COUNTY OF WICKLOW, AND A TOUR TO KILKENNY, CORKy THE LARES OF KILLARNEY, LIMERICK, CASHEL, ETC. ETC.

Chapter XX

Second Departure for Ireland. — Warwick and its Castle. — Liverpool. — Remarks on the rapid Rise of that Town. — Its present Prosperity. — The Athtnceum. — The Lyceum. — The Botanic Garden. — Charitable Institutions. — The New Gothic Church at Everton. — The Theatre. — Disappointments in the Packet sailing. — Determination to go to Holyhead. — Passage- Boat up the Mersey. — The Blind Harper. — Conway Ferry. — Penman-Maur. — Holyhead. — Beautiful Setting Sun. — Sea- Sickness. Page 197

Chapter XXI

New Acquaintance. — Sir William Bet ham and his Family. — The late Joseph Cooper Walker, Esq. — Mr. Walker his Brother. — Excursion to Howth to see the Diving-Bell. — Montpellier. — Remarkable Anecdote respecting Captain Usher. — Pedigree of the Tyrconnel Family. — Regalia of the Her aid- at -arms. — Mr. Kean and his Second Benejit. — Visit to Saint Vuleri, the Seat of Mr. Walker. — Loch-Hela, or Luggelaw. — Derivation of the Name. — Lead-Mines at Shankill. — Village of Enniskerry. 205

CHAPTER XXTI.

Route to Cork. — Tallagh. — Blessington. — Poll-a-Phuca, a Fall of the Liffey. — Ballymore Eustace. — Ruins of New Abbey. — Kilcullen Bridge. — Old Kilcullen. — Quaker Village at Ballylore. — Castle- Dermot, the Ruins there. — Carlow and its Ruins. — Leighlin Bridge. — Old Leighlin. — Kilkenny. — Lord Ormond's Agent, Mr. Barwis. — Dr. Ry an. —^1 lie Castle at Kilkenny. — The Marble Quarries. — Ancient Remains. — The Cathedral. — The Black Abbey. — The College. — Kilkenny Theatricals. — Clonmel. — Fermoy. — Glanmire. — Arrival at Cork. - - - - 2J5

Chapter XXIII

Antiquity of the City of Cork. — Origin of the Name. — Ancient and present State of the Town. — The Buildings. — The Bridges. — St. Finlarr. — The Cork Institution. — Articles of Commerce. — New Mode of preparing Flax. — Beauty of the Environs of Cork' — Urbanity of the Inhabitants. — Mr. Kean much admired there. — Anecdote of a Sailor at Drury Lane Theatre. — Mr. Harrison and his Family. — The Mardyke Walk. — Blarney Castle. — The Blarney Stone. — Black-Rock. — I^ady Chalterton and her Family. — Sail about the Harbour. — The different Islands. — Marquis of Thomond's Seat at Rostellun. — The Steam-Boat. — Mineralogy. — Barry the Painter. 231

b2 xii CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIV

Doubts about the Route on having Cork. — Googanebarra. — Visit to it abandoned. — Inishonan. — Valley from thence to Bandon. — Town of Bandon. — Castle Bernard, — Cloghnihelty . — Irish Funeral. — Sluggish Horse and talkative Driver. — Ross- Carbery. — Adventures there. — Talkative Girl at the Inn. — Offerings to Bacchus, and their Effects. — St. Fachan. — Dean Swift's Verses on this Coast. — Parish of Miros. — RocksT Arch, and Caves. — Glandore Bay. - Page 245

Chapter XXV

Skibbereen. — A new Addition to the Miseries of Human Life. — Black- Rock, the Seat of Lord Bantry. — Whiddy's Island in the Bay of Bantry. — The Town of Bantry. — Bantry Bay. — Great Fisheries. — The French Fleet. — Glengariff. — More friendly Advice. — Toilsome Route over the Mountains. — Kenmare Town. — The Kenmare River. — Route from Kenmare to Killarney. — Valley of the Kenmare River. — Glan-Flesk. — Fila-Down. — Arrival at Killarney. - - . - - 255

Chapter XXVI

Lake of Killarney formerly Lough Lene. — When first brought into public Notice. — First Sight of the Lakes. — Anecdote of Mr. Fox. — Meaning of the Term Pony in these Parts. — The Mountain of Manger I on. — The Devil's Punch- Bowl and Coommacopple, two remarkable Lakes on its Summit. — Fine View. — Regulations respecting Boats upon the Lakes. — Ross Castle. — Embarkation on the Lower Lake. — The Echoes between the Lakes. — The Upper Lake — Ronayne's Island. — Kean's Island. — Cromiglaun. — Dericunihy. — Irish Songs. — Island of lnnisf alien. — O'Donog/toe's Prison. 267

Chapter XXVII

The Gap of Dunloh. — The River Laune. — Stream and Lakes in the Gap. — The new Road through it. — The picturesque Bridges. — M'Carty More's Country. — The Sept of M'Carlys. — Family of Mahony. — Dunloh Castle. — Mucruss peninsula. — Ruins of Mucruss Abbey. — Tomb of the last O'Donoghoe. — Fabulous Stories respecting the Great O'Donoghoe. — Mr. Herbert's Grounds. — Copper Mines there. — Brickeen Bridge, and Island. — Dinis Island. — Turk Lake. — Excavations in the Rocks that

border it. — Turk Cottage. — Turk Mountain. — Glenaa Bay. — Glenaa Mountain.

Salmon Fishery.—O' Sullivan's Cascade. — Ross Island. — Copper and Lead Mines there. — Former and present Appearance of the Island. - - - 28S

Chapter XXVIII

Property of Lord Kenmare, and of Mr. Herbert of Mucruss, about the Lakes. — Lord

Kenmare' s House. — The Deer-Park. — Ruins of Aghadoe. — Farewell to the Lakes.

Spenser and the Faerie Queene. — Different Routes from Killarney to Limerick.

CONTENTS. XUI

Ruins of Kilmallock. — Kerry Head. — Disappointments from lad Weather. — Tralee. — Listowel. — Glynn. — Adair. — Ruins there restored. — Tradition respecting the Fitzgerald Family. — Liberal Conduct of Lord Adair. — Arrival at Limerick. Page 296

Chapter XXIX

Division of the City of Limerick. — The Course of the Shannon. — Newtown-Perry . — The Cathedral. — Sieges sustained by the Town. — Limerick Gloves. — Monastic Institutions.— Bad IVeather. — Attack of the Mail-Coach beyond Cashel. — The Bog of Allen. — Hill of Allen, the Scene of Ossian's Temora. — Number of Ruins in the

- County of Tipperary. — Kilkenny. — VvM to a Nunnery there. — Lord Ormond's School. — Cave of Dunmore. — Castlecomer. — The Collieries. — Carlow. — Return to Dublin. ----_--. 307

Chapter XXX

Desultory Hints and Animadversions respecting the Claims of Ireland to having enjoyed the Use of Letters at a very remote Period. — Importance of cultivating the Irish Language.— Mr. Flood's Opinion upon this Subject. — Errors of Lord Ly Helton and Mr. O'Holloran respecting the Irish Alphabet. — Poetry the Garb in which the early Records of all Nations are clothed. — The Ogham Character. — Dr. Ledwich's Doubts respecting the Existence of Saint Patrick. — Candid Opinions of Dr. Leland. - 322

CHAPTER XXXL

Present State of Ireland. — Mr. Hume's Libel on the Irish and their Country. — Rebellions in the Time of Queen Elizabeth. — The Irish very susceptible of kind Treatment.

Kind and warm-hearted themselves. — Miss Edgeworth' s " Ennui." — Evils of the great Families absenting themselves from the Country. — Wretchedness of the Cottages, and the Cause of it. — On the Education of the Poor. — Prejudices of the English respecting the Irish. — Irish For tune-hunter s . — Resemblance between t he Irish and French. — Different Characteristics of the People in the North and South of Ireland. Distinguished literary Characters of Ireland. - 333

Chapter XXXII

Celebration of the Patron. — The Long Dance. — Anecdote relating to one. — The Querne Cake. — Anecdote respecting Irish Hospitality. — Instances of the great Family Affection subsisting among the low Irish. — The Funerals, and the Funeral Orations of the

Keener*,. -Tenacity respecting the Places of Interment. — Remedies for Diseases.

Enchantment. — Bonfires on St. John's Eve. — Marks on the Skin. — Youthful Marriages.— Former Modes of Dress among the Women. — Litigious Dispositions. Anecdote of a Clergyman — and of an Irish Giant. - _ 343

XIV CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXIII

Opinions of Travellers on the Beauties of Irish Scenery. — The Bogs of Ireland. — Reports of Commissioners concerning them. — The Bog of Monela. — The Bogs not like the Fens of England. — Fields of Ragwort about Dublin. — Process of Hay-making. — Excellence of Irish Butter. — Minerals. — Mill-stones in the County of Kilkenny. — Potatoe when first introduced into Ireland. — The Irish Stir-about. — Particular Species of little Fish in the River Suir. — Many Instances of different Places having the same Name. — Saxon Architecture. — Round-Towers. — Affecting Lamentation over his Country by an Irish Bard. ■ - - - - - Page 362

Chapter XXXIV

Last Visit to Saint Valeri. — Adieu to Dublin. — Passage to Liverpool. — Mr. Kean performing there. — Dr. Parr's flattering Admiration of his Talents, and Attentions to him. — Visit to Gloucester. — The Cathedral. — The Coming-up of the Bore. — The new Medicinal Waters. — Organic Remains. — Return to London by Bath. - - 376

ADDITIONAL NOTES.

On the Brehon Laws. — The Earl of Meath's Liberty. — A Theatrical Anecdote. — Government Nights at the Dublin Theatre. — Origin of Shillelahs. — Town at the Bottom of Lough Neagh. — Saint Patrick's Curse of the Serpents. — Mr. Wakefield on the People of Cork. — A Distillery on the Mountain of Manger ton. — Objects of Trade at Killarney recommended. — Woodcocks abundant at Killarney. - - 380

LIST OF THE PLATES

WHICH ILLUSTRATE THIS VOLUME.

No. 1. Portrait of the Author - To face the Title. 2. View of Dublin-Bay, taken from a House in the North

3. The Cascade and Salmon-Leap at Leixlip 75

f 1 . Doon Point in the Island of Rathlin ")

4. < . > - - - 121 I 2. Rock and Rope-Bridge at Carrick-a-Rede J

5. The Giants' Causeway - - - - - - 132

6. Remarkable Basaltic Rock at Port Coane - - 140

7. Group of Basaltic Columns - - - - - - 145

8. The Scalp, as seen from the Western Entrance - - - 187 9. The Scalp, from the Centre looking towards the East - - 188

10. Waterfall at Poll -a-Phuca - - - - - - 216

11. View of Fermoy Bridge ------- 228

12. View of Blarney Castle ------- Q39

OF MY

RESIDENCE IN IRELAND.

PART I.

COMPRISING THE JOURNEY AND VOYAGE TO DUBLIN AND STAY IN THAT CITY, AND A TOUR ROUND THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM, PART OF THE COUNTY OF DOWN, AND PART OF THE COUNTY OF WICKLOW.

Chapter I

Commentary on the Maxim " When we are at Rome, we should do as they do at Rome.'" — Friendly Advice. — Determination to embark at Bristol. — Visit to Bath. — The Hampton Stone Quarries near Bath. — Rejoicings for the Peace. — An Ox roasted whole. — Visit to Bristol.— Result of friendly Advice. — Determination to proceed and embark at Liverpool. — Mineralogical Anecdote. — Birmingham.

Jy HEN we are at Rome, we should do as they do at Rome. — This is a longestablished maxim, founded so much on reason and good sense that it is in every body's mouth, and, though not always followed, is universally extolled. i even went so far, when I was to visit Ireland, as to follow it, in the true Irish style, by anticipation, and did not wait for my arrival in the country to do as they do in Ireland, but commenced my journey with a practical Bull, and went first to Bath and Bristol in order to embark at Liverpool.

The case was this. — In the summer of 1814 I was led from a combination

B

2 DEPARTURE FROM LONDON.

of circumstances to be extremely desirous of visiting Dublin and the North of Ireland, and therefore gladly accepted a proposal made me by my friends Mr. and Mrs. C , who were going to Dublin, to join their party for the journey and voyage. Liverpool was the place they had fixed on for embarkation ; and as I had no preference for any place, I readily coincided with their wishes.

Before we quitted London, Mr. C meeting accidentally with an eminent

merchant of Bristol, an acquaintance of his, was induced by him to propose an alteration in our plan. This gentleman urged that by embarking at Bristol we should save full half our journey by land, and he assured us that merchantships were perpetually passing between Bristol and Dublin, so that we might be almost sure of sailing within a day or two after our arrival at Bristol, and we should find much more comfortable accommodations in a merchant-ship than in the packets. He was going back to Bristol, he said, the next day, and would speak to a friend very much connected with some of the principal ship-owners, who would look out a nice and convenient vessel for us ; in short, he had no doubt that by the time of our arrival at Bristol, which could not be sooner than a week, every thing would be settled, and a comfortable passage secured for us.

All this sounded so extremely plausible, that no hesitation was made by any of the party in accepting what appeared so very obliging an offer. As far as I was concerned I rejoiced in the alteration ; I had never been either at Bath or Bristol, and thought with pleasure of seeing places so celebrated ; I had, besides, at that time, a sister living at Bath, and to spend a few days with her was adding in no small degree to the gratification I expected in my proposed tour. I accordingly set off for Bath on Sunday the 3rd of July, attended by a servant whom I had hired for the excursion, leaving my friends to follow me in the course of a few days.

Though mineralogical researches were not among the primary objects which I now had in view, yet as I had for some time been much interested by acquiring a slight acquaintance with the mineral kingdom, to combine with the other objects of my tour, as much addition as I could obtain to my stock of knowledge on this delightful subject became a leading feature among my remoter pursuits. I had often heard that in the vicinity of Bath many organic remains were to be found, and I was anxious to procure specimens of them.

BATH. 3

The first day of my stay at Bath having been devoted— as all due respect for established custom required — to seeing the lions of the city, that is to say, the rooms, the circus, the crescents, the parades, the principal squares and streets, the pump-room, the baths, the market, &c. &c. not omitting to taste the waters ; — the first day having been thus spent, on the second I set off on a mineralizing walk, attended by my faithful squire; who having like myself acquired a little smattering of mineral ogical knowledge, was not less eager in the pursuit of aliment to increase and nourish it.

We pursued our course along the side of the Kennet and Avon canal to the village of Hampton about three miles from Bath, where is a very pretty rural church with a tower most picturesquely overgrown with ivy ; then crossing the canal, we arrived at the foot of the hill on the summit of which are the Hampton stone quarries, the largest in the neighbourhood of Bath. Here I first became acquainted with what I had afterwards several opportunities of seeing, the mode of conveying the stone from the quarry above, to the canal below, by means of an iron railway down an inclined plane, with machinery which in conveying the loaded cart down makes that draw the empty cart up. To enter upon any description of this machinery were useless ; — to those who have never seen any thing of the kind no description could make it understood, and to those who are acquainted with it, description would be superfluous. Indeed, though a very modern invention, it is come so much into use, that probably few persons to whom such a subject would be interesting are unacquainted with the nature of it. Now first presented to my observation, it was impossible not to be struck with the ingenuity displayed in the whole apparatus, and I stood for some time contemplating and admiring it. I was offered a ride up the hill in an empty cart, which I had accepted ; but at the moment when I was about to ascend my vehicle, it set off, and then to stop it was impossible. I believe in this as in most cases, perhaps I might say in every case, all was for the best, since, from what I saw, an inference might easily be drawn that the ride would have proved extremely shaking, and once in the vehicle there was no possibility of getting out till the journey's end. I therefore toiled up the hill ; and being a very hot day it was indeed toiling, but I was amply repaid for my labours. I procured at the quarry some very beautiful stalactitic incrustations, with several very good specimens of organic remains of different kinds.

4 BATH.

The stone of this quarry is esteemed of a. better quality than any other for stone engravings. Another recompense of my toils was afforded by the very fine and extensive view spread before me over the beautiful country around. I had understood the hills about Bath to be bare and naked ; but I found them every where well clothed with verdure, and finely interspersed with wood. The city itself is not to be seen from this point. I returned home by a very pleasant path along the slope of the hill, whence there were many fine points of view.

The third day of my stay at Bath, the 6th of July, I was occupied by an object of a very different nature. It happened to be the moment of rejoicing for the peace just concluded, and an ox was to be roasted whole, with another in quarters, and four whole sheep, on Claverton Downs, two miles from the city, to be given away to the populace. Such a spectacle had never before fallen in my way, and novelty seldom fails to awaken curiosity. — A temporary building for the cookery was run up on the Downs, and at twelve o'clock at night the hero of the feast was laid down ; the quarters of beef, and the sheep, were not to follow him till six in the morning. At that hour I set off to walk to the spot : the weather was beautiful, and I was gratified by the novelty of the sight, but felt no wish to partake of the regale. Indeed there is nothing very inviting in the appearance of the animals thus cooked. At twelve the meat was distributed to any one who chose to apply for some, bringing a knife and fork to cut off his portion, and a plate to receive it. No beer was given away; but several publicans from the town had erected booths where it was sold, under shelter of which the people sat down to eat their repast. The whole afforded a cheerful and exhilarating spectacle. The rest of the day was devoted to seeing more about the town, and the evening was concluded with a pleasant walk in Sydney Gardens, the Vauxhall of Bath.