Narrative of the North China campaign of 1860 : containing personal experiences of Chinese character, and of the moral and social condition of the country, together with a description of the interior of Pekin

Front matter

Victorian 915.1 Sw64n 1861

Joseph Earl and Genevieve Thornton

Arlington

Preface

In reading descriptive narratives and accounts of travels, I have often wished that the writers, instead of pitching upon the salient points alone for narration, had given a fuller detail of all the minor occurrences ; which, though unimportant in themselves, often reflect light upon the chief events, and give a continuity to the whole. This I have tried to accomplish in the following work ; and though some readers may consider such parts uninviting and of small import, there may he others who will be thankful for a full and truthful narrative.

It has been my object to write a complete account of the campaign, in conjunction with my own experiences in it, and I have thought it best to note every event in order as it occurred ; for if any portion were cut out, it would spoil the free course of the narrative.

In describing the various occurrences, I have endeavoured to enliven the subject with anecdotes

IV PREFACE.

gathered on the spot, both from members of the expedition and in conversation with natives of the places visited.

Each chapter, as it was written, was forwarded home ; and as now, with the closing chapter, I am unable to leave my duties in China to revisit England for the purpose of passing the work through the press, I must beg the indulgence of the reader for its literary defects and errors ; I trust, however, that they are few and unimportant.

I ought to state that I have made free use of descriptions of scenes and places already published in periodicals, as also of printed official documents ; but I have in every case acknowledged the source from which such extracts are derived.

ROBERT SWINHOE.

Amoyy 11th June, 1861.

Chapter I. Page

Preparations for the Expedition. — Cantonese Coolies. — Strange Rumour among the Chinese. — Dress of the Coolie Corps. — Causes of the Unhealthiness of Victoria. — The Peninsula of Kowloon. — Occupation of Chusan by the Allies. — Difficulty of procuring Transport. — Accidents to British and French Transports. — Departure from Hong Kong — Lam-yit Islands. — Arrival in Talien Bay . . . . .1

Chapter II

Description of Talien Bay. — Sampson's Peak. — Excursions among the Villages. — Surveying Party. — A fortified Chinese City. — The Dialect of Leautung. — Landing of the Troops. — Chinese Grief for the Dead. — Depredations of the Punjaubees and of the Coolie Corps. — Character of the Villages. — Search after missing Officers. — General Michel and his Staff — Arrival of Lord Elgin . . .14

Chapter III

Visit to Odin Bay. — Chinese Game. — Appearance of Bustard Cove. — Encampment at Odin Bay. — The Commissariat. — A sagacious Purveyor. — Chinese Cattle-Dealers. — A Day's Sale. — Visit to the City of Chin-chow. — Hostility of the Natives. — Inspection of the Cavalry at Odin Bay. — Chinese Avarice. — Re-embarkation. — Departure from Talien Bay. — Distribution of the Force. — A Canard. — Memorandum issued to the Troops . . . . .34

Chapter IV

A Waterspout. — Landing of the 2nd Brigade. — The Position of Pehtang compared to Areola. — A dreary Bivouac. — Landing of the 2nd Division. — Description of Pehtang Village.

VI CONTENTS.

PAGE

— Loot. — Quarters of the Troops. — An elegant Chinese House. — Wretched Condition of the Natives. — Aspect of the Forts. — The French Commissariat. — A Reconnaissance in force. — Skirmish with Tartars. — Adventures of a Chinaman ......

Chapter V

March from Pehtang. — Sight of the Enemy. — Order of Battle. — Splendid Practice of the Armstrong Guns. — Charge of Tartar Cavalry — Attack on the Entrenched Camp. — Tartar Bravery. — The wounded. — Scene in the Enemy's Camp. — Village of Sinho. — A Night Alarm. — A Spy. — Affair of Tangkoo. — Flight of the Enemy. — Tartar Gunners. — Quarters of the Troops. — The Takoo Forts. — Deputation 'of Natives. — Interview with Hangfuh. — Exchange of Prisoners.— Chinese Views of the War . . .84

Chapter VI

Plan of Attack on the Takoo Forts. — Difference of Opinion between the English and French Generals. — Bridge of Boats. — Approaches to the Forts. — The Eve of the Assault. — Advance on the Forts. — Description of the Assault. — Unconditional Surrender. — Casualties. — Tartar Courage. — Description of the Forts. — Chinese wounded. — Variety of Races. — The wounded Cake-seller . .120

Chapter VII

Entrance to the Peiho. — Arrival at Tien-tsin. — Appointment of a Commission to inspect the Captured Forts. — Head-quarters of San-kolinsin. — A Ludicrous Scene. — Denizens of a Chinese Swamp. — Going to Market. — A garrulous Chinaman. — Chinese Vehicles. — Advance of the Main Body. — Camping Grounds. — Chinese Villages . .147

Chapter VIII

San-kolinsin's Tactics. — Description of Tien-tsin. — A Scientific Mission. — " Own Correspondents." — Chinese Duplicity. — Advance of the Allies. — A Topographical Department. — Russian Secretary. — Description of the Country. — Yang-tsun Village. — Flag of Truce . . . .184

CONTENTS. Vll

Chapter IX. Page

Chinese Committee of Supply. — Looting. — Encampment at Ho-see-woo. — Negotiations. — Conference at Tung-chow. — Baiting a Trap. — Chinese Deserters. — Mandarin Spy. — An ominous Expedition. — A Llama's Grave. — Chinese Fox-Hunt.— The "black Prince."— The Noise of Battle.— Engagement near Matow. — Reconnaissance to Tung-chow. — Gallantry of Colonel Walker. — Mr. Parkes' Account . 215

Chapter X

City of Chang-chia-wan. — Wanton Destruction of Property. — Deserted Chinese Women. — Advance from Chang-chia-wan. — Another Encounter with the Tartars. — Dashing Charge of the Dragoon Guards. — Various Conflicts with the Enemy. — Yung-leang Canal.- — Ruffianism of the Coolies. — A Grandee's Monument. — Arrival of Reinforcements ...... 243

Chapter XI

refractory Mandarin. — Punjaubee Couriers. — Letters from Prince Kung. — Advance of the Allies. — Letter from Mr. Parkes. — Chinese Mahommedans. — Bivouac. — Flight of the Tartars. — Chinese Mendacity. — French Advance on the Summer Palace. — A Celestial Funeral. — Friendly Feeling of the Natives. — Outside the Palace. — An Imperial Eunuch. — Description of the Palace. — Rare Loot. —The Summer Park . . . . .271

Chapter XII

Release of Messrs. Parkes and Loch. — Looting the Summer Palace. — British Share of the Spoil. — Discovery of Secret Documents. — Preparations for attacking Pekin. — Surrender of the An-ting Gate. — Restoration of other Prisoners. — Spirit of Retaliation. — Funeral of Murdered Prisoners. — Lord Elgin's Reasons for the Destruction of the Summer Palace. — Firing the Yuen-ming-yuen. — General Description of the Palace and Grounds . . 303

Vlll CONTENTS.

Chapter XIII. Page

Letter of Lord Elgin to Prince Kung. — Preparations for Attacking Pekin. — Approach of Chinese Rebels. — Reconnaissance round the Walls. — Signing the Convention. — Tung-chow. — Curious Mode of Fishing. — Description of Pekin. — The "Altars of Heaven and Earth." — Llamaseries. — " Prayer-machines." — Chinese Religions. — Pekinese Vehicles. — Chinese Dromedaries. — Falconry. — Resources and Produce. — Cultivation. — Poverty of the Inhabitants. — Neglect of Education . . . . .338

Chapter XIV

Declaration of Peace. — Marauding Parties. — Death of Dr. Thompson. — Proclamations. — Canton Coolies. — The downward March of the Second Division. — H.M.'s Legation. — Disordered State of the Country. — The Cold Season. — Departure of the remaining Force. — Embarkation of the Troops. — Increase of Cold — Results of the Campaign. — Overweening Confidence of the Chinese. — Rapid Communication of News. — Our future relations with China. — The present Condition of the Country. — Conclusion . 376

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of Prince Kung (to face Title).

Tartar Soldiers at Tangkoo .... to face page 102

Interior of North Fort, Takoo, at the angle where the British

Troops entered to face page 133

Plan of the Peiho Forts .... 143

An-ting Gate of Pekin, occupied by the Allied Forces „ 317

Grand Entrance of the Winter Palace, Pekin , 353

THE

Chapter I

Preparations for the Expedition — Cantonese Coolies — Strange Rumour among the Chinese — Dress of the Coolie Corps — Causes of the Unhealthiness of Victoria — The Peninsula of Kowloon — Occupation of Chusan by the Allies — Difficulty of procuring Transport — Accidents to British and French Transports— Departure from Hong Kong — Lam-yit Islands — Arrival in Talien Bay.

I had procured three months' leave of absence from Amoy, and was enjoying myself to the best of my ability at Canton, in rambling through its narrow painted and gilded streets, and inspecting its old yamuns, temples, and pagodas, when one morning it was announced to me that I was placed by Mr. Bruce at the disposal of Sir Hope Grant, for the time being, as interpreter. Accordingly, I went down by the first boat to Hong Kong ; where all was bustle and preparation for the intended expedition to the north. Ships were being chartered by the score ; troops were arriving by shiploads almost every day;

the streets swarmed with them, so that nearly every other man seemed to be a soldier. Cantonese coolies were being hired in numbers to form a corps for the transport of the munitions and stores of the army, under the auspices of Major Temple. These men were each to receive the large sum of nine dollars, or \L \7s. 6d. a month, besides two suits of clothes, and rations. Notwithstanding the high rate of wages offered, the gallant Major failed to obtain as many as he deemed necessary, or any but the very scum of the population ; because a strange rumour had got afloat among the Chinese, that in all the fights they were to be thrust forward to receive the brunt of the battle, while the British, being well sheltered behind, would be able to fire away at the enemy without harm or danger to themselves. No amount of persuasion could convince the majority of the pig-headed natives that we only desired the coolies as carriers. The fact of their all being dressed uniformly, and frequently drilled, with their bamboos over their shoulders, by the sergeants appointed from various regiments to control the incoherent mass, presented to the minds of the populace positive proof that the term " coolie," or porter, was merely a blind held up to hide the real purpose for which the corps was intended, viz. to be drilled and employed as fighting

COOLIE COKPS. 3

men. It was a matter of little account, so far as the actual usefulness of the corps was concerned, that the refuse population did form its chief ingredient; but the actual benefit to the people of Hong Kong from such enlistment was incalculable, because they were at once and easily rid of the gangs of low thieves that infested the more secluded parts of the island, and so frequently plundered and injured the harmless inhabitants, both foreign and native. I was assured by a gentleman who had been long a resident in the colony, that after the departure of the expedition, robbery had become a thing almost unknown on the island.

The dress of the Coolie Corps, to an English eye, was somewhat grotesque. They were uniformly clothed in Chinese jacket and nether garments, while their feet were left naked. On the jacket, both before and behind, was inscribed, within a black circular line, the number of the individual, and that of his company immediately below, with a black line separating the two. Their pig-tailed heads were surmounted by bamboo caps of a somewhat flattened conical shape, with the letters C. C. C, signifying Canton Coolie Corps, painted conspicuously in front. The officers commanding this grotesque body were mostly drawn from the Royal Marines, but the regiments of the line had also contributed a few. The

1—2

4 NORTH CHINA CAMPAIGN OF I860,,

British officers and soldiers so appointed were at once distinguishable by two narrow wrhite stripes running down the sides of their trowsers. A few of the better class of coolies who could speak a little English, were promoted over their countrymen to the rank of lance-corporals, corporals, and sergeants ; and in such cases one arm of their loose jackets was marked with one, two, or three angular white stripes, according to their rank.

As I belonged to Amoy, it was compulsory on me to return and take my orders thence. This proceeding did not take long, and a few more days saw me back again at Hong Kong. I reported myself to the Military Secretary, who at once ordered me a passage in the transport steamer Lightning, and at the same time desired me to call on the Quartermaster-general, who would supply me with a tent and give me any necessary advice. A bell tent was duly issued ; and no advice being deemed necessary, I went on board the steamer, and had my luggage carefully stowed in readiness for a speedy departure.

But before following the expedition to the north, let us glance at some of the events which had taken place within the preceding few months.

Victoria, Hong Kong, has long had the reputation of being one of the most unhealthy places on the earth's surface, owing to the Settlement being com-

THE PENINSULA OF KOWLOON. 5

pletely shut in from the gentle southerly gales by the towering rocks that rise immediately behind it, and retain for hours after sunset the violent heat which had pervaded the atmosphere during the sunny hours of the summer's day. Again, when the sun suddenly appears after a heavy shower, the saturated moisture is quickly evaporated, and collects in unhealthy vapour along the hill-sides, where it hangs for days together undisturbed by the gentle influence of a cooling breeze. The opposite peninsula of Kowloon has, therefore, been for years looked to with longing eyes by the community as a spot that ought to become British property, where merchants might build their bungalows, and enjoy the cool evening breeze after sultry days spent in their counting-houses in Hong Kong. But now, when troops were fast arriving, the necessity of having some place to stow them ashore began to force itself on the authorities. There was sure to be some delay in their progress northward, and it was certainly not advisable to keep them on board ship any length of time in the harbour of Hong Kong. Kowloon is open to the southerly breezes, and has the double advantage of a large sandy plain, where the horses of the cavalry may be able to stretch their legs after the long seavoyage from India. The French, moreover, were much in want of some such place, and began to cast wishful looks at Kowloon ; and, as nothing could be more disagreeable to the interests of Great Britain than to have so dangerous a neighbour within gunshot of a rich and flourishing colony, this fact alone tended to accelerate the movements of the British Government. Instructions were, therefore, sent up in March to Mr. Commissioner Parkes, at Canton, to arrange with the Governor-General of the Two Kwang for a lease of the peninsula of Chim-satsoey, or Kowloon ; and Colonel McMahon, of the 44th Regiment, was ordered to occupy it with the detachment under his command.

At this time rumours were afloat that the French were going to fall on the island of Chusan, while some averred that their views were more ambitious, and that they even coveted the island of Formosa. But all such tales were flung to the idle winds when we received the announcement that the English and French had managed to take joint possession of the island of Chusan. This was carried into effect on the 21st of April. The men-of-war and transports having moved into the harbour, at noon of the same day a deputation from General Grant and the two Admirals, accompanied by an armed guard of Marines, proceeded into the city of Tinghai, and reached, without opposition, the residence of the Chinese military commandant. The mandarins, finding oppo-

OCCUPATION OF CIIUSAN. 7

sition of little avail, gave in to the proposed terms, and the same evening they came to a conference on board the general's ship, the Granada. The city of Tinghai was to be held in much the same manner as Canton ; that is to say, the troops were to take military possession, and commissioners were to be appointed to assist the civil mandarins in controlling the inhabitants. The island is generally considered healthy, and, from its central position, would form a good depot for troops, and would, in case of supplies running short in the north, be of material assistance to the commissariat, as its propinquity to the mainland made it always easy to procure fresh provisions in great quantity, without the chance of creating suspicion.

The 99th Regiment, the right wing of the Eoyal Marines, one company of the Eoyal Engineers, and Major Eotton's battery of Artillery, were shortly after landed, under command of Brigadier Eeeves, colonel of the 99th. The 6/th were kept on board ship, until all had orders to proceed northward. Only three companies of the 99th were left to occupy the place. Sir Hope Grant and Staff then steamed to the sacred island of Pootoo, the favoured spot of Buddha's priests and votaries, as this place had the notoriety of being remarkably healthy. The General's intention was to convert the far-famed temple of Pootoo into a general hospital for soldiers, but the idea was relinquished.

Transport was still a question of difficulty. The military train, to do their work efficiently, required a multitude of baggage-animals. Accordingly, Amoy, Canton, and Manila, were ransacked for ponies, and the large prices that were paid for the most worthless creatures were quite fabulous. To do justice, however, to the British consul at Amoy, who procured and sent down 110 from that place, I must add that the Amoy animals showed the best. Commissioners were also sent to Japan to buy up all the ponies they could procure there.

Just as the army was about to start, an unfortunate disaster occurred to H.M.'s steam transport Assistance. She wras steaming along about fifty yards from the shore, when she struck on an unknown rock. It was reported that there was at least 10,000/. worth of stores on board, which were destroyed or damaged. The French were still more unfortunate, in losing the fine steam transport Isere on a rock near Amoy ; while another of their vessels, La Reine des Clippers, was burnt to the water's edge at Macao, with all the winter clothing for the French troops on board, besides 600 tons of coal.

" Is it to be peace or war ? " was the anxious inquiry of every one ; but no one knew. An ulti-

DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION. 9

matum had been sent in to the Chinese authorities at Shanghai for transmission to Pekin, and the answer was something like that returned by Yeh at Canton to Admiral Seymour. It was in a somewhat insolent strain, to the effect that they wished to argue the point ; at least, so it was reported. Whatever the reply was, it was considered unsatisfactory. Still war was not openly declared ; everything depended upon Lord Elgin and the advices he would bring out. In this state of uncertainty and doubt orders were at last issued to proceed northward. It was with joy we received them, as we were sick of lying in Hong Kong harbour, broiling under a June sun, with nothing to do.

On the 9th of June the Lightning steamed round to Deep Bay, on the other side of Hong Kong, and, taking the Sirius in tow, proceeded up the coast. The Sirius had on board Brigadier Pattel and fifty-five troopers of the King's Dragoon Guards, with their horses. My fellow-passengers on board were mostly officers on the General's Staff, for whom there was not room on board the Granada. And a curious group wre were : there was just that amount of disagreeableness that usually occurs among Englishmen who are strangers to one another, and yet are fully aware of the appointment and position that each holds ; in a word, there was no conviviality.

The sea was smooth ; and there was nothing to divert the attention from the usual monotony of a sea life, until the llth of June, when the face of the water was covered with a rust-like appearance, and schools of small porpoises kept showing their backs, as they gambolled on their way to the south. The rust and the course of the porpoises, the sailors assured us, were signs of a northerly gale, which, in fact, met us pretty sharply on the following day. As the sea-rust floated past, we could not resist the opportunity of hauling some of it on board in a bucket. We found that its appearance was occasioned by an infinity of small animalcules, shaped like diminutive worms, with both ends pointed, but they exhibited little sign of motion. There were also among them a few tiny creatures — small balls of hair of a smoke grey colour — with tail-like appendages. These last were about the size of dust-shot.

The gale increased ; and finding it difficult to proceed with the Sirius in tow, our captain wisely ran to shelter on the lee of the Lam-yit islands, where we found several other vessels of the northern expedition also anchored. In this delightful anchorage we were detained till the 16th; and as we frequently rambled ashore, it will not, perhaps, be considered irrelevant to make a few remarks on the place;

LAM-YIT ISLANDS. 11

for it is seldom visited, and consequently little known.

Several of the ships in harbour with us contained Seikh cavalry, so that it was necessary to send the syces ashore to procure forage. These gentry, as was to be expected, had not been well drilled in the rights of meum and tuum, and therefore it did not surprise us to hear sad stories from the natives of the fresh supplies they had stolen, or of the injuries they had inflicted. But then the natives were suffering greatly from alarm at the sight of so many ships in their hitherto unfrequented harbour ; and, from the position of the islands, their fears attributed to us a far different design to the one we entertained.

The island of Lam-yit, or South Sun, south of which we anchored, is the largest of a group of islands known as the Yits, not far from the city of Hinghwa, on the Chinese coast of the Formosan channel. It is about twelve miles in circumference, a muddy creek dividing it nearly in two ; and it is bounded by a sandy beach, and rocks running into the sea. Ranges of hills occur on both sides, chiefly formed, as on the opposite coast of China, of disintegrated granite of hoary aspect, with occasional strips of clay. Natural vegetation is extremely scanty ; and not a tree occurs on the island, except stunted peach or wild pear, hidden in some chasm on the hill-side. The little available portion of the flat land is worked by the natives for agricultural purposes ; and the sandy soil, strengthened by rank manure, is forced to yield crops of rice, ground-nuts (Arachis hypogcea), &c, in an apparently thriving condition. But it does not require much knowledge of the coast of China to see that it is not upon the produce of the fields that the natives depend for maintenance. They are nominally fishermen, but actually pirates : and a filthier and more^ squalid race I have seldom seen. Their dialect has a few expressions in common with that of Amoy ; but the greater part of it is distinct, and would probably be found nearer related to that of Hinghwa. We managed, however, to make ourselves understood.

On the 16th of June the gales abated, and we again put to sea.

Abreast of the " Saddles " the Sirius was cast off, and we pushed on ahead, at an accelerated speed of about ten knots. We were out of sight of land, when suddenly a small red-backed dove {Turtur humilis) appeared on wing alongside. It flew round the ship and then away astern over our wake until it disappeared out of sight. In a few minutes it returned, catching us up in no time, took a sweep round our bows, and again vanished in the distance. These

ARRIVAL IN TALIEN BAY. 13

sweeping flights were repeated upwards of twenty or thirty times before it finally disappeared. Now, if we were going ten miles an hour, what must have been the speed of the dove ; and how astonishing it is that, after so many swift and apparently fatiguing flights, it still felt itself strong enough to fly to shore without taking any rest !

At sundown on the 21st of June we arrived at Talien-wan, without any further incident worth recording. A vast number of ships had already assembled there, and we soon had plenty of visitors and inquirers after news. The freshness of the air, so different from the steaming furnace we had just left, was truly delightful. But there was a great outcry for fresh water, a very few streams only having been discovered ; and there was a great paucity of wells in the villages. Some troops were at once landed under the direction of the officers of the Royal Engineers to dig more wells. Ships were daily arriving by dozens, and it would be a fearful drawback to find no constant supply of water.

I felt anxious to go ashore, as I wished to obtain some knowledge of the natives ; having heard that the people of these parts were Mantchoorian Tartars, and not Chinamen.