Narrative of a journey to Guatemala, in Central America, in 1838

Front matter

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NARRATIVE

Contents

CHAPTER L

Paga Preliminary Remarks.— Departure from New York.— The Bahama

Banks.— Havana The Moro Castle.— Theatre.— Plaza de Armas.

Chapter 1

Preliminary Remarks. — Departure from New York. — The Bahama Banks. — Havana. — The Moro Castle.^Theatre. — PlaZa de Armas. — Pafieo. — The Friar.— The Cafe.

Having been honoured by the Government of the United States with a commission which required my proceeding to Guatemala, in Central America, I have been induced, since my return, to prepare the following little work, from an impression that a plain, unaffected narrative of a journey through a country rarely visited by travellers, and but little known, may not be uninteresting to an inquiring and enlightened public. I shall endeavour to discharge the task I have undertaken with fidelity, though I cannot flatter myself with being able to do justice to the wild and magnificent scenery through which I passed, or to impart to the reader those emotions experienced in traversing regions where the pathless forest and almost inaccessible mountain are rendered still more awful and savage by the evil passions of man ; where the traveller is less impeded by the yawning precipice and raging torrent, than by 2 the lurking bandit or the rebel guerilla ; and where the eruptions of the volcano and the earthquake spread less ajftright and desolation, than the political convulsions which have shaken the whole frame of society into ruins.

It was on the 4th of April, 1838, that I embarked at New York on board of a packet bound for Havana. We had fair winds and pleasant weather, and on the tenth day reached the Bahama Banks. Here the perfect transparency of the water enabled us to see the bottom at a considerable depth, consisting of fine white sand, checquered by patches of sea-weed. The weather was delightful ; there was a soft and balmy temperature in the air ; the horizon was clear and cloudless j and the vessel glided smoothly on her way, like a swan sailing on a lake. The sea was of a beautiful light azure, and formed a curious contrast with the sky, which was tinged with purple. The foam made by the gentle motion of the vessel partook of the colour of the sky, and as it lay on the almost unruffled surface of the deep, looked like a richly embroidered veil of purple lace, spread upon a ground of blue. In three days more the cry of " land ho !" was heard from a sailor in the main-top, and we descried the faint outline of the bold coast of Cuba on the horizon. In a few hours more, the white ramparts of the fortifications of Havana glistened in the sun : then, the towers and steeples of convents and churches became apparent, until a great part of the city and shipping unfolded itself to view, with a grandeur of effect far beyond my anticipations.

Passing under the guns of the Moro Castle, which guards the entrance of the harbor, we were hailed from the battlements in good English, through a hoarse speaking trumpet : our captain promptly replied, and we glided on. Opposite to this castle is another, of inferior force and magnitude, called La Puntella. There are other fortifications for the defence of the place, the principal of which are El Principe and Cabinas.

Having entered the harbor, we came to anchor. The port was crowded with vessels, one-third part at least Americans : the wharfs were covered with people ; some busy and bustling ; others loitering and looking on. In a little while we were visited by the captain of the port, who received our passports ; and afterwards, by the officers of the customs. These functionaries came in their several barges ; and I could not help contrasting the manner in which similar duties are discharged in New York and Havana. In the former port the doctor and the custom-house officer go off to a vessel, each in a light boat or gig, pulled by four oars at most, and in a mere simple business way, without any parade. Here, on the contrary, with the love of the grandiose proper to a Spaniard, the captain of the port is attended with two or three subalterns ; and the delegates of the customs are five or six in number. Each party has its twelve-oared barge, with coxswain at the helm, and a man with a boat-hook at the bows, and sits in becoming state under a capacious awning of painted canvass, above which the flag of Spain floats proudly to the breeze.

After complying with the formalities strictly observed in the admission of strangers, I was permitted to land, and found no difficulty in procuring comfortable quarters. I was pleased with the general appearance of the city, which is that of a provincial capital in Spain. There is an air of antiquity about this and other Spanish cities in America, which is not to be met with in the United States, where an ancient building is rarely to be seen. The streets are macadamized, and are clean and pleasant in good weather, but almost impassable after a shower. The houses, many of which are but one story high, with flat roofs, are whitewashed, as in the south of Spain, or painted of some light colour, and have a neat and airy appearance. Some are of two or three stories ; and many of those occupied by the wealthy classes are large and massive, more like castles than private dwellings. They are roomy and well ventilated, having interior courts or areas, like the houses in Old Spain, which permit a free circulation of the air, so desirable in southern climates. The doors and windows reach from the ceiling to the floor, and almost every window opens into a balcony. The floors are of flat square bricks, in some cases glazed and painted ; the walls are stuccoed, or painted in fresco. The internal accommodations of the houses, however, are by no means in proportion to their extent. A good door-way, a broad stair-case, and a spacious saloon, together with solidity of construction, are the objects to which the architect seems chiefly to have directed his attention. The dearness of house-rent is remarkable in this city ; three or four thousand dollars a year being the least for which a tolerably good house can be procured.

Among the numerous public buildings, the most conspicuous are the Government House, the Custom House, the Intendency, and the Theatre. The latter is a noble edifice, for which the public are indebted to General Tacon. It contains three rows of boxes and two galleries, besides the pit. A trellis of gilded iron, by which the boxes are balustraded, imparts to them a gay and airy appearance, while it affords a good view of the occupants. The pit is divided into seats, like arm-chairs, regularly numbered, and neatly covered with red leather, and provided with cushions : an excellent arrangement, which deserves to be adopted elsewhere. There are two coffee-houses within the building, and other rooms for repose and refreshment, besides various offices. This edifice was erected at an expense of two hundred thousand dollars, and is said to be capable of containing four thousand persons. It is even stated, that on the occasion of a masquerade, given there, seven thousand assembled within its walls. The theatre being open while I was in Havana, I was induced one night to attend the performance. The play, "El Pastelero de Madrigal," (the Pastry-Cook of Madrigal,) was wretchedly performed.* One actress was lame, another toothless ; but for this I was compensated by the "Bolero," which succeeded the play, and was danced to the accompaniment of castanets with considerable grace and skill.

The square in front of the Governor's house, called the Plaza de Armas, is one of the handsomest in the city. It is ornamented with fountains, grass-plats, and flower-borders ; the walks are flagged ; and in the centre is a statue of the late King of Spain. There are fountains well supplied with water in other parts of the city ; and I could not help reflecting, how desirable the introduction of those noble and salutary ornaments would be in the United States, in lieu of our vulgar pumps. The Plaza just mentioned is much resorted to in the evenings ; and numbers of persons of all classes may be seen there, sitting, or walking about, and, while they enjoy the cool breeze, listening to the music of military bands, that perform there three or four times in the course of the week.

In the suburbs, near the theatre, is a public walk of great resort, called the Paseo de Tacon. It consists of three extensive alleys: the central and widest one for carriages; the two lateral ones for foot passengers. The latter are shaded

* The Pastelero de Madrigal is an historical personage, and has been made the subject of two Spanish plays, both of considerable merit, but differing in their story of the principal character. In the play I saw, he is represented, like Demetrius in Russia, as assuming to be Don Sebastian, King of Portugal, who had been lost in Africa, though the fact of his death had not been ascertained. Having acquainted himself with many circumstances relating to the lost king, he succeeds, by affecting an air of mystery, by a certain dignity of deportment, and, above all, by denying that he is the person he wishes to pass for, in impressing vast numbers with the belief that he is the long-lost sovereign of Portugal. One of his accomplices allows himself to be put to the torture before he confesses that the Pastelero is the distinguished personage just mentioned. In the other play, he appears at the court of Lisbon as the Pope's Nuncio, presents his credentials in proper form, is duly accredited, conducts a negotiation, serves the interests of his Holiness with all the skill of a con. Bummate diplomatist, and even nominates to some ecclesiastical dignities, before ho in detected.

hy a row of trees on each side, and provided with stone benches. In the afternoon of a holyday this walk presents a picturesque and interesting scene, being crowded by people of all classes, some in volantas, others on foot, and almost all neatly, if not elegantly, dressed. A still more agreeable promenade may be found in the Botanic Garden. It is open to the public at all hours, and, from the variety of trees and plants from all countries which it contains, is well worth the attention of a botanist. There are rows of the Palma Real there, of singular beauty. The trunks are without branches, and perfectly smooth and straight, so that the trees have the appearance of so many stately columns,* The garden is kept in excellent order, by Mr. Auber, the Director, who is exceedingly polite to visitors, especially to strangers.

In the course of my perambulations I wandered one day to the market-place, which is a square, surrounded by porticos. In the centre are the country people, with temporary sheds of canvass, to screen them from the sun, while before them, on mats spread upon the ground, are heaps of plantains, bananas, pine-apples, and nearly all the tropical fruits, as well as many of the productions of more temperate climates. There also are venders of fowls, parrots, and guinea-hens. While contemplating this scene, my attention was attracted by a long-bearded friar of one of the mendicant orders, equipped with sandals and a knotted girdle, and carrying a wallet thrown over his shoulder. He went from shed to shed, receiving from the pious charity of the country-people some little gift — here a plantain, there an ear of corn — until he filled both ends of his wal-

* This is one of the many varieties of the Palm tree found in tropical climates. It grows to a great height, and besides being remarkable for its beauty, is extremely useful in the construction of the rude dwellings of the Indians in America. It is called in English the Cabbage tree, from a substance it produces very similar to that vegetable, and both wholesome and agreeable to the taste. This substance, or fruit, may be eat raw or dressed ; but the removal of it destroys the tree.

let. I looked upon him as the last of a race now extinct in Spain, but still lingering in this remote part of the Spanish dominions.

One of the establishments in Havana deserving a passing visit from a stranger, is the great coffee-house, called Cafe de la Lonja, where the luxury of an ice cream maybe had for a small consideration. It is a place much frequented, and consists of several large rooms, handsomelyfitted up, and ornamented with chandeliers and mirrors, with little tables placed at intervals, where visitors take refreshments, for a Spaniard never takes anything at the bar. There is a great consumption here of coffee, chocolate, lemonade, and ices. Spirituous liquors are not much in request. To do the Spaniards justice, they are generally very temperate. Many of them are water drinkers, but prefer this element iced, and sweetened by a composition of sugar, called 'panal, which they consider a luxury. The waiters are tolerably attentive, and if, on being called, they cannot come immediately, will at least intimate their having heard you, by crying out, " Ya voy^'' (I am coming.) Annexed to the establishment is a room provided with newspapers, prices current, and a shipping list.

My short sojourn in Havana did not allow time to form a deliberate opinion of the inhabitants. As far as my experience went, I found both sexes courteous and civil, and exceedingly attentive to strangers. They appeared to me to resemble in taste and habits the people of Andalusia. Ostentatious, prodigal, somewhat effeminate, and a little addicted to gambling, but generous and hospitable in the extreme. They have a great passion for titles, uniforms, and badges of honor, whether military or civil. Offices are mulitplied in every department, partly to gratify this craving passion for distinction. Happy is he who can mount a uniform or boast a title of any kind. Many of them are purchased with money, and at great price. There is a merchant there who has attained the much envied distinction of being addressed as "Your Excellency."

The women, in general, are finely formed, though rather inclined to embonpoint. Like those of the south of Spain, they have small feet, black eyes, and expressive countenances. They are singularly attractive and graceful ; animated and unaffected in conversation ; and have a naivete and natural wit, that atone for a rather limited education. Indeed, I am almost tempted to say that a refined education would only spoil them.

CHAPTER II. General Tacon : his character, acts, &c

On the day of my arrival at Havana I was introduced by our Consul to the Governor^ General Tacon. The Government House, where he resides, is a large massive building, between a castle and a palace^ and has a piazza or portico in front, supported by huge stone pillars, with room enough beneath to shelter a dozen carriages. The entrance is through a wide and lofty portal, where a guard of soldiers is stationed day and night. Passing through this, we came to an inner court, and ascended thence up a broad stone stair-case to a corridor leading to the antechamber. Here are found a number of officeTs, both military and civil, and other persons, some on duty, and others waiting for an audience. From the antechamber, we were shown into a spacious saloon^ which had all the air of a baronial hall of feudal times. We were then announced ; and after the lapse of a few minutes, the door of an adjoining cabinet was opened by an usher, and the General made his appearance : a plain-looking man^ about sixty years of age, rather pale, and seemingly not in the enjoyment of perfect health. He received us with much affability, asked some unimportant questions, and made rae an offer of his services, observing, that though he had just resigned the command, his influence might yet avail me in the event of my having to make any application to his successor. The interview was soon at an end, for as claims on the attention of the General were still numerous, we thought it proper to retire after a brief expression of thanks for his kind offers.

General Tacon, previously to taking the command of the 3

Island of Cuba, held the office of "Asistente," or Captain General, of Seville, one of the most distinguished posts under the Government of Spain. He accepted his new command with reluctance, and under certain conditions, in virtue of which he was invested with powers superior to any conceded to his predecessors. One of these powers was that of suspending the execution of any Royal order, or mandate, addressed to him from the Court, which, in his opinion, might be inexpedient or injurious to the interests of the nation,* and even of superseding the tribunals in the administration of justice, in cases of emergency. These powers, invidiously denominated facuUades omnimodas, or discretionary powers, were decried by some as favorable to despotism, and approved by others as justified by the demoralization of the people, the corruption of the public officers, and the general circumstances of the Island.

The General, it must be allowed, availed himself, to a tolerable extent, of the latitude granted him. There certainly were many reforms to make, and many abuses to correct. In the judicial and financial departments, a spirit of venality prevailed which was a disgrace to the country. The city was infested by a swarm of vagabonds, gamblers, and bravos. Twelve thousand individuals were said to exist in it without any certain or honest means of subsistence ; robberies, and even assassinations, were committed in open day ; the collection of payments in specie could not safely be efiected without the protection of armed men ;

* The privilege of suspending the execution of a Royal order, is often exercised by the military Governors and the higher officers of the Govern, ment, even when not expressly granted. The form used in such cases, is to write on the margin of the order, " Se obedece, pero no se cumple :" i. e. the order will be obeyed, but not executed. This practice, singular as it may seem, is not without its good effects. At the commencement of the present straggle between the Carlists and the partisans of the Queen, in Spain, the former forged an order from the War Department to an officer commanding a fortress, for the delivery of the place to another officer who was in the Carlist interest. The order was obeyed in the manner just described, and the fortress was saved.

every species of vice reigned with impunity ; and in this state of things, the subaltern magistracy, if not guilty of connivance, were at least unpardonably remiss in the performance of their duty.

The measures adopted by the General for establishing a new order of things, and for removing the Augean impurities which had collected in all the branches of his government, deserve consideration ; while the fearless zeal and untiring perseverance displayed in the pursuit of these objects, evince the spirit and character of the man.

His first step was to extinguish the existing police, who were justly regarded as accomplices of the offenders against the laws, and to appoint certain commissioners, who, for the preservation of order, were to patrol the streets by turns, and to render him daily an exact account of every occurrence within their respective districts : a duty, in the performance of which, they were subjected to the strictest responsibility, A night watch was also instituted, who, as well as the commissioners, were attended in their rounds by a guard of soldiers. The edicts against gambling and the use of prohibited weapons, were renewed and enforced. Fifty-four individuals, and among them some persons of rank, who were notorious for vicious and disorderly habits, were banished from the Island, but not without due observance of the forms of justice.

An inspection of the jails was next effected, and a number of prisoners, after a close but prompt consideration of their cases by the tribunals, were either restored to liberty, or sentenced to various punishments. A class of convicts, whom the law had condennied to an unprofitable confinement, were at the same time drawn forth from their cells, and made to labour in the public works ; much to their ov/n advantage, from their being allowed a small stipend, and to that of society, from the service thus rendered to it.

The public hospitals, being in a most lamentable state from the mismanagement of their resources, and other causes, were also made the subject of strict investigation :

the most salutary reforms were effected in them ; the condition of the patients was much improved ; and a right administration of the funds secured by the appointment of trusty officers.

The sakibrity of the city, and its safety, were also attended to by the adoption of measures for keeping the streets clean, and for lighting them during the night.

The military class, whose habits had become unsoldierly and lax, were subjected to a wholesome discipline : but their pay was more punctual ; their food and clothing were of better quality ; and their discharge, after the expiration of their time of service, was regularly accorded. A partial removal from some of the regiments was, at the same time, effected, of officers whose conduct or opinions had rendered them obnoxious. The same policy was extended to the civil branches of the administration, where officers who had proved unfit or unfaithful, were superseded by men of integrity and talent.

By these means, and by a resort to measures of prevention, rather than by the infliction of punishments, the aspect of things in Havana was soon completely changed ; a stop was put to crimes and abuses of various kinds ; peace and order were restored ; and the inhabitants were made to feel secure in their property and persons.

To enumerate all the acts of the administration of Gen. Tacon, would be to incur prolixity. Yet some notice of the public works of which he was either the promoter or the author, may not be uninteresting.

A fish market on a large scale was erected by him near the sea, provided with water-courses to preserve it in a cleanly state, and marble slabs for laying out the fish. The expense of this work, it is said, will be compensated, after a certain number of years, by an annual income to the Corporation of seven thousand dollars.

Two other market-places were also established for the sale of meat.

The jails were in a condition that called loudly for a reform : a new one, of vast dimensions, was accordingly commenced in the suburbs of the city, and in an airy situation ; the lower part, capable of containing two thousand persons, to be occupied by the prisoners — the sexes in separate divisions — and the safe-keeping of the whole to be made compatible with a reasonable degree of comfort; the upper part, to serve as a barracks, calculated to accommodate twelve hundred soldiers.

The necessity of an adequate mole, or wharf, for the exclusive use of persons landing or embarking, had been often represented. The work was immediately commenced, and, with the aid of a voluntary contribution of four thousand dollars by the merchants, was successfully brought to a close.

The enclosure of a large space of ground for the exercise of the troops, was another of his public works. This is denominated " El Campo de Marte ;" and is in the form of a parallelogram, encompassed by an iron railing, representing lances. At each of the four sides is a conspicuous iron gate, surmounted by military trophies, which serve as ornaments, while they designate the nature of the place.

The principal access to the city being through a gate, called " Puerta de Monserrate," which had a mean appearance, a new gate was erected in the best style of architecture ; and over the moat, in front of it, was thrown a fine stone bridge of eleven arches, with a raised pavement on each side for the use of passengers.

Of the Theatre and the Paseo, both which he constructed and allowed to be called by his name, mention has been already made.

These, and other objects of public utility, both in the capital and in other parts of the Island, as well as the Governor's numerous other reforms and improvements, were accomplished without any addition of expense to the public, but simply by a right administration and application of the ordinary resources.

If credit is due to him for this, it is equally so for his

Stern impartiality in the dispensation of justice, his disinterestedness, his integrity, and the protection extended by him to foreigners, especially Americans, He was accessible at proper times to the lowest as well as the highest. An application to him for redress on just grounds, was never made in vain. He was as ready to reward as to pmiish ; but in all cases he exacted an implicit obedience to his will. To do anything a la Tacon^ became a common saying, and meant a fearless and summary mode of proceeding.

Although he had a number of friends, General Tacon — as must be the case with any man in a similar situation — had a host of enemies, many of whom were men of note and standing in society. By these, every exertion was made, both in the Island and elsewhere, to misrepresent his measures, and to effect his downfall. It was about four years after the assumption of the command, that he was succeeded by General Erpeleta. Whether this appointment was made in compliance with the wishes of his opponents, or in consequence of a voluntary resignation, it has not been in my power to ascertain. It has been insinuated, that on the occasion of a call on the Island by the Spanish Government for a subsidy of two millions and a half of dollars, the Intendent, who was inimical to the General, represented to the Court that the money would be forthcoming if a new Governor were appointed. On the other liand, it is asserted that Gen. Tacon was anxious to return to (Spain on account of the delicate state of his health, and, on that plea, had more than once solicited permission to send in his resignation.

One more remark before disposing of the subject. It is possible that in the exercise of his authority, the General may in some few instances have exceeded the bounds of moderation ; but it is also certain, that he conferred on the Island great and lasting benefits. His name will be memorable there for years to come, and will be cherished by the majority of the inhabitants with gratitude and respect.

Chapter III

Departure from Havana. — Truxillo. — The Commandant — A Military Household. — The Dinner. — Incredulity of Mine Host.— Civility of a Native.

I HAD waited now four days in Havana for an opportunity to proceed to some port in Central America, when I was informed that an American vessel was on the point of sailing for Truxillo, in the Bay of Honduras, from whence, it was believed, I should find no ditficulty in proceeding by land to Guatemala, the capital of the country. I accordingly embarked at once, and found myself again tossing on the ocean, and at the mercy of the elements.

With every thing in point of accommodations and provisions, that could be desired, with a worthy and obliging captain, and a fast sailing vessel, it required no great degree of courage to encounter once more the disagreeables of a sea voyage. There was also the moral certainty of a quick passage ; for as our course was westward, the mild airs of the trade wind could scarcely fail us before we reached our destination.

On the 25th of April, the fourth day after our departure from Havana, we came in sight of the Island of Bonaca, situated immediately opposite to Truxillo ; and in the afternoon of the same day, we cast anchor in the harbor of that port.

The town of Truxillo stands close by the sea, at the foot of a lofty mountain crowned with trees, and clothed with a rich vegetation reaching to the very edge of the water. It is an isolated solitary place, of antiquated appearance, with few houses, and those in a ruinous condition. The objects most prominent at first view, are a fort mounted by a few guns, an old dismantled building, which I was told had been the mansion of the Governors in better times, and a church with only half a roof, A little apart from the town, there is a cluster of huts, twenty or thirty in number, inhabited by a little colony of negroes, called Caribes, a denomination for which I could find no reason, since they certainly have nothing in common with the Indians of the Caribbee Islands.

We were not long in receiving the visit of the Customhouse officer, who came off to us in a little canoe paddled by a couple of blacksv When this officer was leaving us, after having accomplished the objects of his visit, I handed him my passport, and requested him to obtain leave for my landing on the following day, if not contrary to the regulations of the place. The next morninsfj early — for we had scarcely finished breakfast — the same person came again, and delivered me a message from the Commandant of Truxillo, stating that I could go on shore as soon as might be agreeable to me, and that that officer, in the expectation of my landing at once, was then waiting on the beach to receive me. This mark of attention left me no choice, and 1 hastily changed my dress, while my friend, the Captain, ordered the boat to be manned with four oars, her awning to be rigged, and a flag to be spread on the stern-sheets.