Narrative of a journey in the interior of China, : and of a voyage to and from that country, in the years 1816 and 1817 : containing an account of the most interesting transactions of Lord Amherst's embassy to the court of Pekin and observations on the countries which it visited

Front matter

Twblished by Long man, Hurst. Rees, OrmeS^Brcn'n. London Oct. l.lSl7.

NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY

*

Preface

I have laboured under great difficulties and many discouragements in preparing the following pages for the press. A narrative, having for its principal subject a journey through the interior of China, must derive its interest either from the novelty and importance of the incidents which it relates, or from the quantity of original information which it contains respecting that singular country. In both these respects I am in a great degree anticipated. The tale of the Transactions of Lord Amherst’s Embassy has been too well and too circumstantially told by an official pen to leave me much expectation of finding public curiosity unsatisfied respecting them. The close delineation of that part of the country equally visited by Lord Macartney’s and Lord Amherst’s Embassy, contained in the accurate and laboured work of the late Sir George Staunton, has left very little to tell respecting it, and the production just alluded to has in a great measure described what was exclusively seen by the latter. The work that had for its object the establishing “ the point of rank 'which China may he considered to hold in the scale of nations has so exhausted the topics which in this view might be dwelt upon, and has so illustrated them by the writings of the Missionaries, as almost to preclude the hope of a further elucidation of the same subjects from similar sources of information.

VI

PREFACE.

I am in scarcely less difficulty respecting the natural history of the countries which I have visited. Sickness abridged, and shipwreck almost annihilated the materials which would have afforded extensive scientific communication- respecting China. My illness, indeed, was comparatively of little importance, except as it prevented my observation of the country ; for the exertions of my friends more than compensated the loss of my individual efforts in making collections. But the shipwreck deprived me of all the fruits of those means which the wisdom and liberality of the East India Company placed at my command ; and has only left me the duty of stating, in justice to others, what was the nature of those means, and something of the results to which they led.

My appointment to the Embassy was at first simply medical ; but through the recommendation of Sir Joseph Banks to the East India Company, I was permitted to take upon me the office of Naturalist, and received an ample outfit of all the apparatus for scientific research. To give greater effect to my exertions in collecting and preserving the vegetable productions of the countries to be visited by the Embassy, a botanic gardener, from the Royal gardens at Kew, taking out with him a plant cabin, for the preservation of living specimens, was placed under my directions ; and to assist generally in my pursuits my brother-in-law, Mr. Poole, was allowed to attend me. With such facilities, it would have been strange, even in countries often trod by scientific men, if I had not gleaned some new and important facts. But in China, scarcely touched by the foot of the naturalist, nothing short of a rich harvest could have been received as a token of my due exertions. The proofs of what these were, of their efficiency or abortiveness, are buried in the straights of Gaspar. But it is incumbent on me to bear testimony to the exertions of Mr. Hooper, the Botanic Gardener, whose industry was equally unremitting and availing. His more peculiar department having been to collect and preserve seeds, he placed, on our leaving China, three hundred packages,

PREFACE.

Vll in my keeping, many of which were taken from plants of undescribed genera, and by far the greater number from unknown species. They formed part of the shipwrecked collection. *

From the kindness of Sir George Staunton, to whom I gave a small collection of China plants, and of Captain Basil Hall, to whom I gave a small collection of China rocks at Canton, I have derived all the specimens which have enabled me to give the slight geological and botanical notices of China contained in this work. To the latter gentleman, and to his friend, Mr. Clifford, I am also under other obligations of an important kind ; and in naming them, have to mention the loss of collections equalling my own in value. In taking leave of the Embassy on its disembarkation in the Gulf of Pe-tche-le, they took charge of a case of bottles with spirit, for the purpose of preserving any interesting marine animal production which might fall in their way ; and the necessary means for the preservation of plants. On rejoining the Embassy five months afterwards, they presented me with a collection of Zoophytes and an extensive collection of plants from the Lew-chew Islands. These also perished with the Alceste, but do not complete my catalogue oflosses. A fine collection of madrepores made by Capt. Maxwell may be added to them, and will still leave it unfinished. Whilst the Alceste and Lyra explored the Corean coast and the Lew-chew islands, the other ships of the Embassy visited the coast of Tartary. Lieut. Maughn, of the East India Company’s service, went with them, and having taken directions as to the mode of preserving dried specimens of plants, surprised me on my arrival at Canton with an extensive geological and botanical collection from the coast of Tartary. These, encreased by a collection which had been made from the same part of the world, for Mr. Livingston, one of the surgeons to the British factory at Canton, and which I received from the kindness of that gentle-

After leaving the wreck of the Alceste, I had the mortification of hearing that the cases containing these seeds had been brought upon deck and emptied of their contents by one of the seamen, to make room for some of the linen of one of the gentlemen of the Embassy.

Vlll

PREFACE.

man, were also placed in my possession, and shared the fate of my other specimens. But I should fatigue the patience of my readers without doing justice to my own feelings, if I attempted to state all that I. owe to the kindness and exertions of my friends and all that they have left me to regret.

After these declarations respecting the loss of materials which would have given value and interest to these pages, what, it may fairly be asked, have I remaining of importance to the public ? In looking over my observations on the countries that I had visited, I was of opinion that they contained something to interest, and something to inform. It is not for me to judge how far I may have correctly estimated the value of my matter ; but I trust that the exclamation of the Poet,

ibi omnis,

“ Effusus labor.”

will not entirely apply to my pages. I have endeavoured to describe things as I saw them ; and when subjects arose incidentally from my narrative, have tried to give them an extrinsic interest by noticing the opinions of others and comparing them with my own. In doing so, I have respected the freedom of my own mind, and have never hesitated to express my thoughts, even when they differed from high authority. I trust that my language has, on these occasions, expressed the deference of my feeling. If, however, it should not always be found exactly suited to my purpose, I beg that my readers will charitably attribute it to my little experience in the niceties of speech. Indeed, it is in what concerns the style of this work that I am especially anxious to bespeak their indulgence. Little practised in composition, I have been desirous to give my own thoughts in my own words, and in doing so have not, I fear, benefited the language of these pages, and have delayed them longer than the merit of their contents may seem to have deserved. In what regards my facts and conclusions I cannot feel much apprehension : the first are, to the best of my judgment, strictly stated, and

PREFACE.

IX the last were drawn because they seemed to follow the premises, and if they be not adopted will only have the fate of others better than themselves.

In making acknowledgments it seems almost superfluous to state that I am under the deepest obligations to Sir Joseph Banks, whose support to my scientific views was the natural consequence of their being laudable and useful. In leaving England I carried with me his instructions respecting the objects to be kept most closely in view during my absence, and since my return have derived from the freest access to his library and herbarium all possible facilities in constructing this work.

Of the assistance of Robert Brown, Esq. the following pages bear sufficient evidence. His description of a new genus, which, in friendly partiality, he has named Abelia , and of two new species of plants, the one leading to the establishment of a new natural order, and the other fixing the place in the natural method of a genus hitherto of doubtful affinity, gives unequivocal value to my Appendix.

To Mr. Morrison’s journal I owe in a great measure the short account of the progress of the Embassy during the period of my illness, and some interesting notes respecting transactions from which I was absent. Some of these notes would have been incorporated with the text had I possessed the journal at an earlier period. To Mr. Cooke’s journal I have been also much indebted, and to the same gentleman I owe two drawings which illustrate the book. The drawings of the Quercus Chinensis and Eurya Chinensis are from the tried pencil of my friend W. Hooker, Esq. To Mr. H. Raper, an officer of the Alceste, I am indebted for all the geological views, except two, of the Cape of Good Hope, taken on the spot, and possessing not their least value in their minute accuracy. The plate of the temple of Quong-ying is from a sketch which I obtained from the kindness of Sir George Staunton. The other drawings, not bearing the names of professed artists, I am answerable for.

X

PREFACE.

For that part of the “ Chart showing the track of the Alceste,” which gives the line of the Corean coast and the Corean archipelago, I have to thank the Rev. Mr. Taylor, chaplain of the Alceste. The more general map of China, and the map of the route of the Embassy on the Yang-tse-kiang, are reduced from the great map of the Jesuits. My object in giving the former has been to convey to the reader some notion of that very peculiar character of the country, which arises from its universal intersection by navigable rivers and canals, as well as to show the whole route of the Embassy. Its accuracy of course depends on that of the Jesuits, which we had no opportunity of verifying, but had no occasion to suspect. It so far, however, differs from the map of the Missionaries in containing the names of a greater number of places in the line of our route than the original, and in having the nature of the banks of the rivers passed over by the Embassy marked upon it, when this could be done without producing confusion by crowding the letter-press. The same observations apply to the map of the Yang-tse-kiang and Po-yang lake.

The meteorological tables contained in the Appendix, although very imperfect, will be thought perhaps to have merited insertion as adding to the very few facts that we already possess regarding the atmospherical phenomena of a part of the world so little known. I have scarcely as much to say for the Itinerary of our route. It is of some consequence in reference to the maps, and in containing distances extracted from a Chinese Itinerary : an excuse for its insertion may be found in the small space which it occupies.

In conclusion, I must not forget to point out the fidelity with which the engraver, Mr. Fielding, has executed his department of the work, or to acknowledge the interest he took in the progress of it, and his anxiety that the accuracy of his pencil should correspond with the nicety of my own wishes in subjects not so frequently under the eve of an artist.

Chapter I

Departure of the Embassy from Portsmouth. — Arrival off Madeira. — Town of Funchal. — Mountain Torrent. — Priests. — Flying-fish. — Remarks on its habits. — Pass the line. — Cape Frio. — South America. — Harbour of Rio di Janeiro. — St. Sebastian. — Fish and vegetable market. — Visit to the Braganza shore. — Sugar Loaf Mountain. — Musical instrument of the negro slaves. — Importation of slaves. — Remarks on the slave trade. — Second visit to the Sugar Loaf Mountain. — Scenery of the mountain. — Visit to the Botanic Garden. — Cultivation of the Tea-plant. — Its preparation. — Plants cultivated in the Botanic Garden. — Ipecacuanha plants of the Brazils and of New Spain.

— Fire-flies. — Islands in the harbour. — Their geological structure. — Fruits. —

General remarks Page 1

Chapter II

Departure of the Embassy from Rio di Janeiro. — Arrival off the Cape of Good Hope.

— In the Straights of Sunda. — Shark. — Sucking Fish. — Arrival at Sirang. — Volcanic Mountain, — Plassur Pittee. — Javanese instruments. — Dexterity of the natives in climbing the Cocoa-nut trees. — Gunong Karang. — Rice fields. — Scenery of Plassur Pittee. — Llospitality of the natives. — Their huts. — Visit to the Crater of Gun on g- Karang. — Precipitous ascent. — Interesting plants. — Benevolence of the Javanese. — Visit to Pandigalang, famed for the manufacture of bracelets. — Javanese arms. — Kriss.

— Gold and silver ornaments worn by Javanese women. — Native Sulphur. — The Goramy, a fish common in rivers. — Return to Sirang. — Mineral springs. — Bantam. — Ceremony of circumcision. — Sultan of Bantam. — His death. — Great bats of Java. — Of the large Snake of Java. — Its habits. — Destroys a man. — Swallows a Goat. — Dissection of the Snake. — Power of Snakes. — Geckoo Lizard of Java. — Species of.

— Characters of. — Habits of. — Departure from Sirang 24

a 2

Contents

xii

Chapter III

Departure of the Embassy from Batavia Roads. — Typhoons. — Lemma Islands. — Physalia. — Hong Kong. — Plants found there. — Its high conical mountains. — Waterfall. — Geological facts. — Scenery of Hong Kong. — Departure from Hong Kong. — Libelliilce. — South-west monsoon. — Straits of Formosa. — Mee-a-tau Islands. — Meteorological observations. — Experiments on the temperature of the water of the Yellow Sea. — Ambassador visited by two Mandarins. — In what manner received. — Visit of Chang and Yin to the Ambassador. — Description of their persons, manners, and dress. — A junk with supplies. — Presents for the Emperor trans-shipped. — Disembarkation of the Embassy. — Embassy announced to the Legate. — Arrival at Ta-koo on the banks of the Pei-ho. — The Legate visits the Ambassador. — Chinese crowd. — Present from the Legate to the Ambassador. — Departure from Takoo. — Banks of the Pei-ho. — Observations on its inhabitants. — Stacks of salt. — Approach to Tien-sing. — Appearance of the people. — Arrival at Tien-sing. — Description of the city. — Hall of audience described. — The screen. — Mandarins. — Performance of the ceremony discussed. — In what manner performed. — Chinese feast. — Play. — Presents to the gentlemen of the Embassy. — Chinese salutation. — Ice. — Plants of Tien-sing. — Chinese houses. — Villages. — Visit to a Chinese Colonel. — Chinese encampment. — Soldiers. — Arrival at Tung-chow Page 58

Chapter IV

Tung-chow. — Ho, brother-in-law to the Emperor. — Muh, president of the Le-poo. — Ambassador and suite visit the Commissioners. — Chinese carts. — Roads. — Interview at Tung-chow. — Interior of the city, its walls, gates. — Note from the Ambassador to the Duke. — The Duke visits the Ambassador. — Preparation to leave Tung-chow. — Description of Chinese carts and horses. — Litters for the sick. — Journey to Yuen-min-yuen. — Bridge. — Road to Pekin. — Halting place. — Refreshment. — Distress of the sick. — Suburbs of Pekin. — Yuen-min-yuen. — Scenery. — Nelumbo. — Ambassador’s carriage stopped by Mandarins. — Soo-tagin. — Quang. — Ambassador urged to enter the Imperial Palace. — Enters. — Description of the apartments. — Ambassador urged to enter the Imperial presence. — Refuses. — Is insulted. — Mandarins’ solicitations. — Brutality. — Ambassador quits the Palace. — Reaches the quarters prepared for the Embassy. — Visited by the Emperor’s Physician. — Haiteen. — Breakfast. — Prepares to return to Tung-chow. — Message from the Governor of Pekin. — Humane conduct of a Chinese. — Application on behalf of the sick. — Departure from Yuen-min-yuen. — Pekin. — Its walls. — Arrival of the Embassy at Tung-chow. — Joy expressed by the boatmen at our return. — One of the Ambassador’s servants nearly killed. — Emperor deceived by his ministers. — Arrival of Soo and Quang. — Presents from the Emperor

CONTENTS.

xiii

to the Prince Regent. — Selection of presents for the Emperor. — Mandarins disgraced. — Remarks on Tung-chow and its environs. — Cheating propensity of the Chinese. — European Coins. — Tchen. — Fur shops. — Sables. — Druggists’ shops. — Public houses. — Sam-tchoo. — Beggars. — Observations on mendicity. — Timber sellers. — Their houses. — Plants. — Nelumbium. — Petsai. — Fruits. — Xing-ma, or Cordage plant. — Nature of the soil. — Insects. — Sickness at Tung-chow. — Noxious qualities of the water. — Death of one of the band. — Observations on the cause of disease at Tung-chow. — Water of the Pei-ho Page 92

Chapter V

Embassy leaves Tung-chow. — Plants. — Peasants. — Arrival at Tien -sing. — Articles of ingenuity. — The Yu, its different varieties, its manufacture. — Agate. — Pudding-stone, — Chinese barbers. — Shampooing. — Chinese razors. — Barbers’ instruments. — Departure from Tien-sing. — Euho, or Imperial River. — Appearance of the country. — Corn and oil mills. — Oil of Sesamum. — Mode of expressing the oil. — Blacksmith’s shop. — English pen-knives. — Razors. — Scissars. — Exactions of the soldiers. — Illness of the author. — Face of the country. — Quit the province of Pe-tche-le. — Plants. — Character of Chang. — Character of Yin. — The judge of Pe-tche-le. — Blind musicians. — Sang-yuen. — Thuja Orientalis. — Willows. — Pagoda of Lin-tsing. — Mahomedan mosques. — Cha-ho. — Tang-chang-foo. — Fan-shang-meaou. — Wan-ho. — Lake.

— Embankments of the Canal. — Province of Shantung. — Province of Kiang-nan. — Face of the country changes. — Chung-tswe-tsee, or full harvest moon. — Sacrifice of the boatmen. — Yellow River. — Ambassador and suite land. — Pass a flood-gate. — Pass Tsing-keang-foo. — Locks. — Population. — City of Hival-gan-foo. — Kaou-yen-chow.

— Temple. — Impressment of trackers. — Their confinement. — Pagoda of Kao-ming-tse.

— Change boats. — Woo-yuen. — Picturesque landscape. — Qua-tchow. — Imperial Canal. — Observations on Imperial Canal. — Plants. ■ — Rice fields. — Snakes. — Shells.

Chapter VI

Embassy enters the Yang-tse-keang. — Quan-yin-mun. — City of Nankin. • — Porcelain Pagoda. — Hot baths. — Cotton. — Plants. — Walls of Nankin. — Leave Nankin. — City of Woo-hoo-shien. — Tallow tree. — Geological appearance. — Arrival at Ta-tung. — Ta-few. — Cotton mill. — Tea-plant, first met with. — Oaks. — Remarks on them. — Ginger. — Kwa-yuen-chin. — Death of William Millidge. — Conical Rock. — Province of Kiang-si. — Enter the Poyang Lake. — Ta-koo-shan, or Orphan Rock. — Ta-kootang. — Plants. — Arrival at Nan-kang-foo. — Archways. — Romantic Scenery. — Temple of Pih-luh-tung-shoo-yuen. — Ferns used as tea. — Ferns collected. — Embassy quit the

XIV

CONTENTS.

Poyang Lake. — Arrival at Nan-cliang-Foo. — General observations on the Yang-tse-keang. — Cultivation. — Scenery. — • Oak, tallow and camphor-trees. — Pine. — Geological facts. — Meteorological observations Page 156

Chapter VII

Nan-chang-foo. — Porcelain Vases. — Porcelain shops. — Fire in the suburbs. — Embassy leaves Nan-chang-foo. — Beautiful plants. — Camellia Sasanqua. — Camellia oleifera, or oil plant of the Chinese. — Expression of oil. — Oil press. — Tallow-tree. — Process of extracting the tallow. — Candles. — Camphor-tree. — Mode of obtaining the camphor. — Species of Ficus. — Plantations of Camellia. — Cross the She-pa-tan, or eighteen cataracts. — Rocks. — Soil. — Plants. — Arrival at the city of Nan-gan-foo. — Rocks in the neighbourhood of the city. — Ground-nut. — Cross the Mei-ling Mountain.— Arched gateway. — Wild scenery of the mountain. — Lime-kilns. — Valley of rocks. — Village of Choong-chun. — General observations on the military of China. — Triumphal arches. - — Chinese cities. — Du Flalde’s description of. — Chinese boats. — Re-embark. — Shallowness of the river. — Mountains. — Geological formation. — Brickkilns.— Timber-rafts. — Marbled rock. — Vegetation. — Coal-pits. — Sulphate of iron.

— Chaou-chou-fou. — Bridge of boats. — Unsuccessful attempt to enter the city. — Canton linguist. — Change of boats. — Temple in the fissure of a rock. — Lord Macartney’s description. — Nature of the rock. — Chinese Bonzes. — Rocky pass. — Plants. — Plantations of sugar cane. — Sugar mills. — Buffaloes. — Terrace cultivation.

— General cultivation. — Population of China. — Approach to Canton. — Groves of

orange trees, of bananas, and of rose apples. — Arrival at Canton 173

Chapter VIII

Canton. — Cruise of the Alceste and Lyra during the absence of the Embassy. — Viceroy of Canton. — Chinese edict. — Emperor’s letter to the Prince Regent. — Ceremony of its delivery. — Viceroy’s arrogance humbled. — Conference between the Ambassador and Viceroy. — Streets of Canton. — Shops of. — Fans. — Snuff' bottles of rock crystal. — Adamantine spar, or Corundum. — Porcelain shops. — Minerals employed in colouring porcelain. — Glass shops. — Drug shops. — Camphor. — Opium.

— Tobacco. — Mercury. — Chinese medical practitioner. — The Moxa. — Artemisia. — - Vaccination. — Gypsum. — Streets of Canton. — Unsuccessful attempt to enter them. — <■ Nursery Gardens of Fa-tee. — Plants. — Tea-plant. — Manufacture of. — Its cultivation.

— In what latitudes it flourishes. — Where cultivated. — Plantations of the Green Tea. — Observations on the Tea-plant. — Temple. — Religious ceremony. — Chinese deities. — Bonzes. — Library of religious books. — Printing-office. — Moveable types. — Embassy leave Canton. — Salute from the batteries. — Food of the Chinese. — Character of the

CONTENTS.

xv

Chinese. — Their proneness to falsify. — Middling class of Chinese. — Penury of the lower orders. — The peasantry. — Infanticide. — Exposure of children. — The Alceste anchors off Macao. — Portuguese Governor. — Macao. — Nepenthes distillatoria. — Geological appearance Page 207

CHAPTER IN.

Embassy arrives at Manilla. — Festival. — Inhabitants’ dress. — Ambassador visits the Governor. — Mulatto women. — Cigars. — Their manfacture. — Bamboo dwellings. — Execution of malefactors. — Mode of strangling. — Embassy dines with the Governor.

— Olla Podrida. — Andalusian. — Gallician. — Excursions to Los Bagnos. — River Passig. — Its scenery. — Canoes of the natives. — Convent of Benangonan. — Laguna de Baie. — Method of catching fish. — Franciscan Convent. — Superior of the Convent. — Epidemic disease. — Procession of Indians. — Los Bagnos. — Native village. — Small convent inhabited by a native priest. — Description of convent and its inhabitants. — Hot springs. — Temperature. — Vapour baths. — Hot stream. — Sonnerat’s statement.

— Woods. — Trees. — Plants. — Cordage plant. — The nippis. — Arrival of the Ambassador at Los Bagnos. — Return to Manilla. — Alceste leaves Manilla Bay. — Is wrecked. — Ambassador and suite land on Pulo Leat. — Ground cleared. — Scenery. — Want of water. — Excessive thirst of the party. — State of the Alceste. — Cask of water staved. — Ambassador and suite leave Pulo Leat for Batavia in two boats. — Sunken rocks.

— Point of Banca. — Short allowance. — Fall of rain. — Dead calm. — Breeze. — Approach land. — Exhaustion of the men. — Anchor near Krawang Point. — Fresh water discovered. — The Krawang river. — Princess Charlotte transport. — Arrival in Batavia roads. — Ternate and Princess Charlotte dispatched to Pulo Leat. — Arrival at Batavia. — At the Dutch Governor’s. — Transaction at Pulo Leat after the departure of the Ambassador and suite.

— Heavy fall of rain. — Musquitoes. — Captain Maxwell addresses his men. — Malay

prows attack the wreck. — Malay boats. — The party chased by Malays. — Two of the Alceste’s boats appear. — Malays make for the wreck. — Plunder it. — Picquets stationed at the landing place. — Party retires to rest. — Encampment alarmed by a large monkey. — Scolopendras. — Scorpions. — Alceste fired by the Malays. — Garrison again alarmed by a monkey. — A party dispatched to the ship. — Twelve sail of Malay prows appear. — A well dug. — Fortress. — Two canoes laden with plunder. - Malay prow attacked by Alceste’s barge. — Commander of the barge kills two Malays. — Barge’s grapnell sinks the prow. — Malays fight in the water. — Three dragged on board the barge. — Two die. — Third made prisoner. — Employed to cut wood. — Makes his escape. — Fourteen Malay prows appear off Pulo Leat. — Captain Maxwell gives orders to prepare for a voyage to Batavia. — Captain visited by the Rajah. — He musters his men. — Malay prows increase to forty-five. — A sail descried in the distance. — Ternate arrives. — The shipwrecked band embarks for Batavia 23/

XVI

CONTENTS.

Chapter X

Java. — Description of Batavia. — Weltervreden. — Barracks. — Fruit. — Mangostan.

— Bazaar. — Trees. — Sugar-tree. — Javanese ink. — Plants. — Chinese burial ground.

— Nelumbium. — Lotus. — Artisans. — Dutch colonists. — Balls. — Dress of the colonists. — Buitenzorg. — Its scenery. — Climate. — Causes of disease. — Mode of cure. — Departure from Java. — Fire on board the Caesar. — Arrival in Simon’s Bay. Page 274

Chapter XI

Cape of Good Hope. — Geological excursion at. — Magnificent scenery. — The Kloof.

— Basaltic vein. — Strata of sandstone. — Rocks grotesquely grouped. — Vein of small-grained granite. — Green point. — Vertical strata of schistus. — Mixture of granite and schistus. — Granite resting on schistus. — Intimate union of granite and schistus. — Beds of schistus. — Schistus imbedded in granite. — Ascent up Table Mountain. — Mixture of schistus and granite. — Veins of granite in schistus. — Schistus imbedded in granite. — Varied character of granite veins. • — Sandstone formation. — Native iron. — Oxyde of iron. — Simon’s Town. — Junction of granite and sandstone. — Order of appearances. — Description of the schistus. — Explanation of appearances. — Mr. Playfair and Captain Hall’s opinions. — -Neptunian theory. — Phenomena inexplicable by. — Huttonian theory. — Phenomena explicable by. — Wernerian theoi’y. — Appearances explained by. — General conclusions. — Constantia. — Huyt’s Bay. — Stalactite at. — Cause of.

— Simon’s Town. — Incrustations on vegetables. — Opinions of Vancouver. — Flinders

and Peron respecting experiments on. — Results. — Albatross 285

Chapter XII

St. Helena. — Scenery of. — Plantation house. — Plants of. — Climate of. — Geological facts. — Beds of lava. — Friar’s ridge. — Buonaparte. — Visit to. — Conduct of. — Description of. — His health. — Embassy. — Departure from St. Helena. — Island of Ascension. — Author’s visit to. — Geology of. — Euphorbia. — Turtle. — Departure from.

— Orang Outang. — Description of. — Hair. — Skin. — Head. — Chest. — Hands. — Posture. — Habits in Java. — On board ship. — Sagacity and disposition. — Examples of.

— Intimacy with the boatswain. — Monkey’s anger. — Examples of. — Arrival in

England 313

Appendix

Jhu kiaiu

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Chapter I. Departure From Portsmouth

At three o’clock of the afternoon of February 8th, 1816, I embarked with His Excellency Lord Amherst, on board H. M. S. Alceste, then lying at Spithead. Getting under weigh at eight o’clock the following morning, in company with H. M. S. Lyra, Capt. B. Hall, and General Hewitt, Capt. Campbell, we steered with a fine breeze through the Needles. In passing the shores of the Isle of Wight, my imagination dwelt painfully on its white cliffs and verdant slopes, which but three days before I had visited with friends who gave the best value to my existence, and from whom I was separating, perhaps for ever. But the painful feelings excited by such reflections, too intense, indeed, for long continuance, were quickly destroyed by my share of the bodily suffering which attacked, in succession, the greater number of those, who then, for the first time, felt the motion of a ship at sea. Scarcely had we cleared the western extremity of the island, when an intolerable giddiness, languor, and sickness, drove me to my cot, and had but slightly mitigated, when the mountains of Madeira were descried from the ship.

Early in the morning of the 18th February, going upon deck, I saw this interesting island bearing S. S. W., distant about six leagues.

MADEIRA.

A thick white cloud covered its mountains, which gradually dissipating as we advanced, disclosed their snowy summits beautifullv contrasting with the dark foliage of their declivities. The squadron hove to about ten o’clock in the forenoon, off the town of Funchal, at the distance of two or three leagues from the land.