My pilgrimage to eastern shrines

Front matter

MY PILGRIMAGE

TO

EASTERN SHRINES.

Preface

bears, as it were, the yoke of the infidel. Has any effort been made to shake it off? The most callous and indifferent can hardly repress a feeling very like shame when he finds himself admitted or excluded from the Holy Sepulchre at the pleasure of the Turkish guards.

It may be that for our humiliation, in the high purposes of God, we are not permitted, like His chosen people of old, to go in and possess the good land. Let us at least, however, be thankful that it is at this day more open to our researches than it ever has been since the Crusading times. These hospitable resting-places, the convents, are ever open to receive the traveller. The religious orders, not counting their lives dear unto themselves, have for a long series of years kept a footing (and a perilous one too often) in this land, though the lives of many have been sacrificed, and their houses have been pillaged in times still recent. Their residence in some parts is never a very safe one, but still they remain, soldiers of the cross, ever faithful at their posts, and what would travelling in Palestine be without them ? They have great influence over the people, are familiar with their language and customs, devote themselves cheerfully and kindly to receiving and supplying the wants of an immense number of pilgrims who twice in the year pass through a barren and difficult country ; while the traveller is in many parts equally dependent on them for shelter and entertainment, for which it is true he can make compensation, but which no compensation could otherwise procure. These establishments are entitled to the most sincere respect. It is with unmingled pleasure that I bear my testimony to the valuable services and ready kindness of these self-denying and benevolent members of communities vowed to a life of religious and useful duties which they so well fulfil.

E. C. BUSH.

Chapter I

From Gratz to Trieste — A Pleasant Promenade — Voyage down the Adriatic— The Coasts of Istria, Fiume, Pola, &c., —Corfu — Government House — A Pasha's Daughter — Pound the Morea — Cerigo — Syra — A Turkish Family — Athens — The Pirseus — Greek Boatmen — The Streets of Athens — The Tempio del Vento — A Festa — The University of Athens— Temple of Jupiter Olympus — The Theatre of Bacchus— The Parthenon — The Erechtheion 1

Chapter II

The English Church— The Hill of Mars— Greek Men and Women— The ^National Costume — A Greek Wedding — The Ceremonies — The Officiating Priests — The Bride and Bridegroom — A Greek Funeral — Mount Lycabettus — Magnificent View — Ancient and Modern Athens — At Home in Athens — Athenian School Girls — The Theatre of Bacchus — A Day on the Acropolis — The Temple of Theseus — Bas-reliefs — A Greek Dance — Farewell to Athens . . .20

Chapter III

Departure for Smyrna — Voyage to that City — Landing — Pontdes Caravanes — Moslem Call to Prayer — The Mosque — The Bazaar — General view of Smyrna — Chateau St. Pierre — The Interior of a Mosque —What came of being there — Soldiers' Monument — Hotels— Row across the Bay — Beside the Bay . . . . . .42

Chapter IV

Railway to Ayasalook — Ayasalook — Cave of the Seven Sleepers — Its Inner Recesses — Ephesus — Fragments of a Temple — The Port of the City — Remains of an Ancient Temple — Ruins — Prison of St. Paul — The Church of St. John — Greek Villagers out for a Day's Pleasure— A Midnight Struggle — Camels — The Railway in the East — Rhodes .59

X

CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Cyprus — The Convents of the Nuns of St. Giuseppe — Visit to an Island Family — The Streets of Cyprus — Voyage — Turks at Prayer — ■ Arrival at Beyrout — Madame Olympe — Landing at Jaffa — The Streets and Lanes of the City — Arab Women — Setting out for Jerusalem — Rainleh — The Pass of Aboo Goosch — Arrival at Jerusalem— First View of the Holy City — Walk to Bethany — The Grave of Lazarus — The Mount of Olives — The Garden of Gethsemane 75

Chapter VI

The Damascus Gate — The Cave of Jeremiah — The Jews' Wailing-plaee — The American Church — The House of Annas — Of Caiphas — Lepers — Keeping Vigil — Circuit of the Walls — English Mission — The Valley of Jehoshaphat — The Pool of Siloam — The Valley of Hinnom — The^ Road to Bethlehem — Convent of the Nativity — Chapel of the Grotto — St. Jerome — Bethlehem House — Field of the Shepherds — Pools of Solomon — Gardens of Solomon . . . 95

Chapter VII

St. Giovanni in Montague — Convent of Spanish Monks — Superior of the Nunnery — The Church of the Convent — Shrine of John the Baptist — Nuns — Convent Garden — View of the Village — Return to Jerusalem— Prince Arthur in the Holy Land — The Stations — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Scene in the Interior — Arabs — Way to Emmaus — The Marchioness — An Angry Friar — The Streets of Jerusalem at Night — On the Mount of Olives — Visit to the Nunnery of Notre Dame de Sion — The Tombs of the Kings — The English Church — Convent School Discipline — Out with the Nuns — Visit to Bethany — Palm Sunday — The Greek Convent of St. Croix — Moslem Procession — Mecca Pilgrim — Locusts . . .112

CHAPTER VLTX.

Good Friday in Gethsemane — The Garden of Gethsemane — The Mosque of Omar — Appearance of the Interior — The Octagon — The Crypt — The Altar of David — Easter Eve — The Armenian Church — Scene in the Bazaars — Easter Sunday — Ceremonies at the Holy Sepulchre — Quarrel between Greeks and Armenians — Easter Time at Jerusalem — The French Caravan — Convent Memories — The Convent Terrace — House of an Eastern Laundress — English Chemist — Sister Bernard — Departure from the Nunnery — From Jerusalem to Jaffa — Scriptural Sites — Arabs and their Horses — Yellow Locusts . . 184

C LI AFTER IX.

Ramleh — The Tower — Lydda — Jaffa — The Franciscan Convent — Pilgrims— Dinner at the Convent — Murder of Several Monks by Arabs — Reminiscences of Jerusalem — An Orange Garden — The Reservoir —The Bazaar — Files of Camels — The Hotel par excellence — English and French Corvettes in the Bay — Departure from Jaffa — Fellow-Passengers — Caifa — Mount Carmel — A Hermitage — Graves of the Monks — Two English Travellers — Ebal and Gerizim — Arab Tradition — The Grotto of Elijah — The Nunnery at Caifa . 152

CONTENTS.

xi

CHAPTER X.

St. Jean d'Acre — Conversation by Signs — En route to Nazareth — Caravan of Greek Pilgrims — Bedouins — Nazareth — The House of Mary — The Greek Church — A Stormy Night — Chapel of the Annunciation— Joseph's Workshop — Mensa Christi — Chaunting an Oremus — The Mount of Trembling— The Mountains of Gilboa — Female Fashions of the East and West — Pilgrims from Siberia — Mount Tabor — Extensive View — Churches on Mount Tabor — Descent of the Mount — Suspicious-looking Bedouins — Tiberias — An Arab Christian — A Spanish Padre — Country of the Gadarenes — Mount Hermon .......... 171

CHAPTER XI.

Cana of Galilee — The Marriage Feast Chamber — A Storm — From Nazareth to Caifa — The Brook Kishon — The Telegraph — Caifa — Convent Rest — Nuns on a Journey — Scenes traversed by them — Sidon —Its Traffic — Departure from Caifa — Adieu to Palestine — Beyrout — A Voyage en Orient — Amiable English Lady — News from Europe — Friends from the Desert — En route to Damascus — The Ridges of Lebanon — Djebel Sheik — The Diligence from Damascus —The Approach to the City . . . . . .188

CHAPTER XII.

Damascus — Rival Hosts — The Hotel of M. Demetrius Cara — The Old Castle — Minaret of the Grand Mosque — Ancient Tombs — A Bazaar — The Gazelle — The Grand Mosque — A Family of Travellers — Scene of the Christian Massacres — Franciscan Convent — Streets and Bazaars — The Shopkeeper's Siesta — Dress of the Women — ■ Somnolent Worshippers — Paying a Visit — The Effendi — A Damascus Family — A Day Out — Eastern Courtesy — Climbing — Magnificent View — The Environs of Damascus — The Pacha's Seraglio — The Sheik— Evening— The Walls of the City— The Arab at Home — The Baths — The Consul's Residence — A Holiday . . 205

CHAPTER XIII.

Departure from Damascus — The Post House — Ascent of Lebanon — Ras Beyrout — Baalbec — Interesting Party of Travellers — Inscriptions in the Rock— The Terrace by Moonlight — The Streets of Beyrout — The Pine Forest — The Broken Lily — Cholera — Quarantine — An Egyptian Lady — Heights of Beit Miry — On Lebanon — Going to the Well — Mountain Villages — Beautiful Young Armenian — Turkish Ladies — Peculiar Female Dress — A Mountain Family — Preparing Dinner — Traces of Violence — Coming down from Lebanon . 226

CHAPTER XIV.

My Departure — Chasing a Steamer — At Sea — Rhodes — Coast Scenery — Bay of Smyrna — View of the City — In Quarantine — The English Consulate — Quarantine Establishment — Allowed to move on — Channel of the Dardanelles — Constantinople — Hotel d'Angleterre —

Xll

CONTENTS,

Moonlight Row before the Sultan's Palace — Old Stamboul — The Mosque of Sultan Achmet — The Tomb of Sultan Mohammed — Chairs for Prayer— Les Isles des Princes — Ruins of the Old Seraglio — Scutari — Mosque Aya Sophia 244

CHAPTER XV.

Scutari — Howling Dervishes — Curious Ceremony — The "Furore" of Devotion — Tradition of the Sultan Mahmoud — Hospital of Scutari — Romantic Story of a Sultan's Daughter — Seeing the Sultan — Costume of the Spahis — The Spinning Dervishes — Religious Ballet in their Mosque — Turkish Women — Sad Mortality — The English Church — The English Embassy — Staying at Therapia — The Sultan's Kiosks — The Bosphorus — The Castles of Europe and Asia — Village of Buyukdere — European and Asiatic sides of the Bosphorus — Towers of Roumeli Mssar — Kandili — Constantinople — Jangin War — The Sultan's Friday Progress — Handsome Turks . .262

CHAPTER XVI.

Adieu to Constantinople — Turkish Ladies — Mont du Geant — The Black Sea — Varna — Entrance into the Danube — Isle des Serpents — Sulina — Banks of the Danube — Toultscha — Young Women in Quarantine — A Memorial Russian Church — Arrival at Galatz — Appearance of the Town — Variety of Scenery — Braila and Hirsova — Giurgevo — — Bucharest — Interesting Group — Mcopolis — Salutations of the Garcons on the River Steamers — Turn Severin — Porte de Fer — Orsova — Golumbacz — Babakaj — Curious Rocks — Enormous Women — A Turk in the Ladies' Cabin 281

CHAPTER XVII.

Belgrade — An Hungarian Princess — Dalys, Apatin, and Paks — Ezchaue Station — Hungarian Children — Buda and Pesth — Blocksberg — The Museum — Jewish Reformed Synagogue — The Fortifications of Buda — The Ancient Crown of Hungary — Marionville — Pettau — Beautiful Pass— Der Schwarze Adler — A Disagreeable Travelling Route — Bruneck — Francis Festung — Botzen — Monument to the Archduke Rainer of Austria — Curious Old Monuments — Baffled Curiosity — Beautiful Mountain View 295

CHAPTER XVIII.

Meran — German Social Life — Hotels and Pensions — The Parish Church — Relic of a Saint — Chapel of St Valentine — The Tyrol — A Tunnel — Picturesque Old Castle — The Rauchenberg — Ruined Castle — Sunday Gathering of Peasants — Railroad to Verona — Verona — The " Kaiserkrone " — Brixen — Stertzing — The Brenner Pass — Houses of Prayer — The Brenner See — Innspruck — Under Valley of the Inn — Nuns — Bavarian Frontier — Passport Annoyance — Alpine Scenery — Munich — Augsburg — The Domkirche — Ulm — The Minster — Wood- Carving — Geislingen — Stuttgart 306

Chapter I

From Gratz to Trieste— A Pleasant Promenade — Voyage down the Adriatic— The Coasts of Istria, Fiume, Pola, &c, — Corfu — Government House — A Pasha's Daughter — Round the Morea — Cerigo — Syra — A Turkish Family — Athens — The Piraeus — Greek Boatmen — The Streets of Athens — The Tempio del Vento — A Festa — The University of Athens — Temple of Jupiter Olympus — The Theatre of Bacchus— The Parthenon — The Erechtheion.

EW YEAR'S DAY, before dawn I was in a rail-

" way train to leave Gratz for Trieste, most impatient to quit the region of snows, which for several days had marked the course of a most dreary journey from the centre of Germany. aBuongiorno,Signori,"said an Italian, stepping into his place-— a greeting which, in the language of the sweet South, seemed promising and pleasant even there. A young Hungarian lady, with large clear blue eyes, white forehead, and rosy, plump cheeks, all muffled up in a scarlet knitted shawl, and with a little white dog in her lap, and a fur-clad papa by her side, was going to get warm at Venice for the rest of the winter ; and on we all went at cheerful speed, venturing now and then, as morning advanced, to let down a window for a hurried glance without ; but the snow -clad landscape presented little that was very attrac-

TRIESTE.

tive. After pausing for dinner at Steinbruck, a place in the fine Pass of Simmerung, whose jagged mountains edge the defile, we went on from Cilly to Laibach with the additional company of a little lad going to the University. After passing Laibach we crossed many viaducts, and soon seemed to be on very high ground, a terraced route on a mountain side ; pines and fir-trees clothing the precipices, and a wide plain extending far below. Visiting Adelsberg could not be thought of, but I was told that at Pentecost the caves were all illuminated, and decked with garlands for the grand festa, when the peasantry danced within those gloomy recesses.

Evening came on, and a sudden change of temperature with it. The early moon and a mild star or two looked in upon us, while the ice melted from the windows, which all day, and for many previous days, had presented a very frosty aspect. I was the first to let them down, and once more to recognize with intense thankfulness the balmy softness of the Italian clime, registering at the same time a kind of vow never more to leave its genial life-comforting warmth for the blustering north.

At Nabresina many quitted the train, but one carriage which was quite full bore on still southwards, arriving in Trieste about nine o'clock. Next morning what a cheerful scene ! Ships and the blue sea visible from my window, and on going out a piazza with fruit, vegetables, and sunshine. My first thought was of the ice-bound country I had quitted, where not a blade of grass was to be seen, not a leaf of salad to be had ; but I was soon

THE CATHEDRAL.

attracted by groups of peasants in rather pretty costumes, their dark gowns bound with broad bright coloured ribbons, a jacket open in front showing embroidered kerchief with gold clasp, and invariably a nosegay within its folds, white cap with veil turned back and falling in double plait clown to the waist, and purple sash with long ends tied at the side. The piazza has a fountain in the midst, with emblematical figures of the four quarters of the globe.

Trieste is a cheerful town, with good shops and a very good hotel, the charges of which are reasonable. From the Locanda Grande in the piazza one emerges in the midst of the country people, with their fresh fruit. The post-office is far off on the other side of the town, past a smaller piazza, with more fruit and food, sold by peasants with good-humoured faces ; and across a canal, where vessels are unloading, is the spacious church of St. Antonio, which has some fine pictures. Not far off are some gardens, which in summer are open to the public. The old cathedral is up a steep rising from the large piazza, a good half-hour's walk. I went there on the sixth, and on entering heard the voice of a priest, who from the pulpit was summing up all the deaths of each parish in the past year, the announcement of the numbers in total being strangely thrilling. The church was densely crowded, and a sort of shudder seemed to pervade the mass as the numbers " gathered in" were told. After a pause and prayers, the number of marriages and of births was announced, the whole finishing with music.

B 2

THE CASTELLO MJRAMO.

A similar ceremony takes place at the same time every year. There are many very old monuments of gold mosaic in this church, in which the history of the saint and martyr to whom it is dedicated is very graphically and rather grotesquely told. One marble figure bearing the palm branch before the altar is very chaste and delicate. There is a fine view from the platform outside over the pleasant sea, and in a garden close by are many old Roman fragments of sculpture.

I remained twelve days in Trieste, always wanting to be off southwards in ships that were going merrily away over the rippling waves. The pier is crowded on Sundays and festas, and from it one quiet evening I saw the range of mountains arching round to Venice, all bathed in rosy light. On the line of coast towards Nabresina is the CastelloMirama, belonging to Maximilian, now Emperor of Mexico, and once his summer residence ; a most charming place, of which he must sometimes think even in his Mexican palace. There is a nice road close to the sea for driving to this pleasant abode, and the railway to Nabresina runs along above. A Pharos, or lighthouse, stands out at the extreme end of the Molo, which faces the whole town, and is about two miles in length, forming a semicircle from the entrance of the harbour. Part of the town stands on the hill crowned by the cathedral, and from the sea its aspect is commanding. The principal streets and the harbour present a lively scene at all times. Ships of different nations are constantly lying at anchor, while within the town the

CORFU.

Maltese, Dalmatian, and Greek sailors mingle with the population, and help to form the most variegated groups at every turn.

Mr. Moore, a worthy English merchant, helped me in some business matter that required the signature of the Austrian officials, who, but for him, would have perplexed me greatly. At last everything was arranged, and in great haste, consequent on the arrival of letters only on the previous day, I set off for the long-desired and far distant shores of Palestine.

The coasts of Istria, Fiume, Pola, &c, were passed in the course of the day, and a beautiful moonrise gave another charm to the scene. The whole of the next day we were out of sight of land, the Adriatic playing some rough gambols ; but the following morning we had a charming time of it in the calm channel of Otranto. We reached Corfu about mid-day, passing through a narrow strait formed by the island and mainland, wherein on both sides the scenery was very pretty; the delightful verdure of the island gave me, who had so recently seen a snow-covered country, a feeling of intense pleasure, added to the anticipation of setting foot on land. A narrow street, with booths, huge baskets filled with oranges and lemons, still adorned with their leaves and seeming to have been plucked in clusters, leads up to the centre of the little town. Greeks in costume, the short full white skirt, red jacket, close fitting gaiter, and tasseled fez, setting off their dark faces, delicate features, and well-turned forms, and some few Turks, with their heavy

CESSION OF THE SEVEN ISLANDS, turbans and impassive countenances, attracted my attention on the way to Carter's Hotel, my room in which looked out on the spacious esplanade, with its handsome border of fine trees, and on the picturesque citadel, ivygrown and ancient in look.

Many of the fortifications at Corfu were destroyed by the English before possession of the island was given up to the Greeks (from some good motive, I was informed), so that the place has at present a ruinous aspect. The Venetians, who built an archway near, had, it is to be hoped, an equally good motive for leaving it standing. There is an agreeable walk along the promenade towards Castrades, returning from which by the spoiled batteries, I re-entered the town by the lofty Venetian gateway. The civil young hostess, doing the office of cicerone, accompanied me to some store-shops, tolerably well supplied, where I obtained a few articles which I had forgotten to purchase at Trieste.

The cession of the Seven Islands by the English has given rise to one murmur, which I heard everywhere, and which indeed was anticipated. " There used to be four thousand English soldiers stationed here, each spending part of his thirteenpence per day, besides wealthy English officers spending no one knows how much," said one long-faced tradesman to me, " and now there are one hundred and fifty Greeks, who don't spend their twopence."

The Government-house at one side of the esplanade, with an archway at each end, through which the views a pacha's daughter.

were charming, and a terrace running all round, had a pleasant aspect. The island, on the whole, disappointed me ; but I had not time, nor was it the season to do so, to go far inland, where there are many pretty scenes among its hills and villages. The opposite coast had a fine, bold aspect. A young lady I met had, some time ago, paid a visit, accompanied by her father, to a Pacha's family in that country, living somewhere up among the mountains. On their arrival, the Pacha's daughter was on the stairs to receive them, clad in pink silk and gold embroidery, looking like a figure in a picture, her hair cut short in front, and hanging down in fine plaits on her shoulders, and her yellow boots on, ready to walk with them round the gardens. This young lady was much delighted with a small hand looking-glass belonging to her visitor, in which she delighted to look for hours at her own pretty face.

The English Church service is held in the old parliament house. All the consuls live in a row, in good houses, on higher ground than the rest of the town, commanding a fine view, their signs, as we may call them, hanging out in glaring colours.

Before leaving, I visited one of the Greek churches, which I saw all ready for the festa of the Epiphany, celebrated by the Eastern Church later than by the Latins. An infinite number of candles, long and short, thick and thin, plain and decorated, made the chief show.

After getting my billet for the steamer to Athens, and

SYRA, having an interview at the consul's, which was a mere loss of time, I was once more afloat at two o'clock ; and, I must acknowledge, I admired the aspect of the town and citadel from the sea.

Cephalonia and Zante are names which call up many images of beauty. Indeed, the whole of these Ionian isles are attractive, and would well repay a visit, gems as they are rising from the azure waves of the loveliest of seas, and invested with so much of classical interest. Morning showed us the island of Cerigo, with its barren precipices ; and as we coasted the Morea, I felt disappointed at its bare and rugged shores, being accustomed to connect the name of Greece with all that is beautiful and attractive. The place where the old hermit lives, and from whence sometimes in calm weather he comes out to pay vessels a visit, was pointed out from the deck, which, during the whole day, I never quitted, being buoyed up with an indefinite expectation of catching a glow of enthusiasm from the sight of a land every inch of whose soil is associated with the name of some hero or demigod. I caught, however, nothing but a severe cold, which somewhat damped my enthusiasm for the heroic.

In early morning we anchored before Syra; and when I came on deck by starlight, as morning dawned, I had a pleasing view of this beautifully situated town, which rises up a curving hill:side. In the centre I observed a conical eminence, covered with houses, and surmounted by a church. The Pacha of Kandia, his

THE PACHA OF KANDIA.

ladies, children, and servants, came on board; be is a man about fifty, wearing a red turban, ample coat, and full trousers, bis scimitar banging by bis side. The ladies were invested in bolster-shaped silk cloaks, of pink, yellow, and other colours, but generally of somewhat dull hues and old-looking ; a veil of thin muslin, doubled, covering their faces and heads, but leaving the eyes free. One of them was very pretty, her complexion being of a delicate paleness, her eyes beautifully formed, and with an expression of haughty self-will which showed, I doubt not, that she was the favourite. Two Nubian slaves, one of whom had a large bottle of olives in her hand, were in attendance upon these ladies, the former crouching down on deck, while the latter sat in a line on the seats and chairs. There was also a little girl about thirteen, and two younger children, one of whom they commanded to salute me, and say something. One elderly lady, in a black cloak, seemed to take the lead amongst the group.

The Pacha had his own cook with him, but the steward, to all appearance, received many orders. His family went below, and chose their berths in the ladies' cabin, the children, and even one or two of the ladies, accommodating themselves in the salon. One of them informed me they were going to Stamboul. The Pacha himself looked quite a man of the world, and was going to Constantinople, I understood, to occupy a higher station than that he had previously held.

The steamer sailed with them about mid-day, and

CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE.

about nine at night came on a terrible storm, to tbe terrors of which these poor women, who perhaps had never been at sea before, were exposed during the whole night.

Passengers for Athens have to change into a small steamer at Syra, and as, from some cause, the & Orient remained all day at this port, I had time to ascend the house-covered mount of old Syra by a series of nights of steps, a fatiguing enough operation, but showing at every rise a better view. From the summit, crowned by the church and convent of St. Giorgio, the islands of Paxos and Antiparos, with others in the distance, are visible, the high land of Syra itself stretchingfar out to the right. The lighthouse, ships, and steamers are seen at anchor in the ample circuit of the harbour ; and the town itself, with its white, yellow, and red houses clustering down to the very edge of the water, presents a most charming and novel prospect. The guide said that there were about twenty religieuses in the convent here, one of whom, an old woman, in a brown stuff gown, and cord, with her head wrapped in white, came towards me as, almost breathless, I was mounting the last steps, and laying her hand on her breast, seemed to give a greeting or benediction.

After gazing on the view as well as the furious wind would permit, I entered the church, a perfectly simple edifice, with an altar-piece of St. George inflicting condign punishment on his redoubtable adversary, looking mildly with his bright blue eyes all the while. Sheltered

GULF OF iEGINA, behind a parapet wall edging the mount, I looked down on a valley, the sides of which are in summer covered with vines, but wild-looking, and void of habitations. On descending to the town, I passed on through the large piazza, and other streets, in which I saw many nicely-built houses ; and, altogether, Syra bore the aspect of a place of some importance, as was testified also by its animation and considerable traffic.

About four next morning we were in motion, and such noisy machinery as this little steamer had I never heard, so vigorously did it keep thumping, scraping, and creaking. When I got up to enjoy the morning under the soft Grecian sky, we passed several islands, the most important of which was iEgina. After entering the gulf there was nothing to behold but bare, treeless coasts all the way, washed by the most translucent waters, and bathed in an atmosphere of a lavender tint. About three in the afternoon we came in view of Athens and the Acropolis, and it was not long ere the bay of the Pirseus received us. It was a fine sunny afternoon, and two or three war steamers were in the harbour, looking very trim, while boats and small craft were moving about at its mouth.