My life with Stanley's rear guard

Front matter

Gbe Xibran?

of tbe

Tllnivcrsiti? of Toronto

Chapter I

Weary of African life, and worn by my ten years' wanderings in many lands, my thoughts turned homeward at the beginning of the year 1887, and I felt the old longings for a sight of English faces and English scenes once more. I had spent nearly three years on the Congo, during the greater portion of which time I had been in the service of the Belgian State, and the remainder with the Sanford Exploring Expedition. I thought I had had enough of Africa, for a time at least, and wanted to get away. The life had become monotonous to me ; every tree and track on the whole Congo route was familiar ; with native customs and languages I was well acquaint, and there seemed little, if anything, to tempt me to remain further.

I was not fated to return to England, however, just then. In the middle of my preparations for departure, a chance meeting with an old friend and comrade in African work — Charles Ingham — led to a complete reversal of my thoughts and intentions.

Ingham, whom I happened to meet at Matadi, was acting at the moment as the advance agent of Mr. Stanley, in connection with the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition.

IO MY LIFE WITH

His mission was the employment of porters for the conveyance of the baggage of the Expedition up country, through the Cataract region. From him I learned for the first time of the presence of Mr. Stanley once more on African soil, and of the rescue he had undertaken. The news came to me as a startling surprise. Cut off as I had been from almost all civilized life, news of every kind of the doings of the outer world was to me as a closed book. The days came and went, and the weeks ran into months, as, pursuing the ordinary course of my life, I lived, careless of outside history and incident, happy and contented if only sufficient sport and adventure attended my frequent journeyings.

Ingham's tidings interested me strangely, and I questioned him in no little detail as to the ways and means of the whole proceeding, with which he was temporarily associated. I learned from him at the start that his connection with the Expedition was only a temporary one. Pressed as he had been to give his services permanently, he had nevertheless refused, preferring to continue his work as a missionary on the Lower Congo, to journeying into the unknown interior. He was not, however, without enthusiasm in regard to the matter, and from him I learned of the whole plan of operations. As I listened, my feelings rapidly underwent a change. Thoughts of home and longings for rest were all swept from my mind, and I became full of anxiety to form one of the band of travelers. The name of Stanley had always had a charm for me, and I had no greater regret than that my African experiences had not dated back a sufficiently long time to allow of my having been with the great explorer in his earlier days of travel and discovery.

As I say, I knew nothing of Emin Pasha, and truth compels me to confess that about him I cared not at all. Of his sufferings and trials, of his dangers and difficulties, I was in entire ignorance. Life with Stanley promised new experiences, unthought-of adventures, and all those things which from my early days had appeared to my sporting mind to make life worth the living. For glory or profit I had no heed ; but for sport and adventure I was keen and excited. I grew hopeful of achieving my purpose. I knew Stanley, and would not come to him as an entire stranger. Through his influence I had been first appointed to the Congo service. I did not, however, rest my hopes on this fact alone. The explorer, I knew, was a practical man, who leaned more toward actions than words. With him there could be no more powerful or persuasive argument than proof of energy and ready adaptability. I was quick to discover from Ingham that time was short, and the men he sought were scattered. Here was my opportunity, and I seized it without ado. Applying my knowledge of the people and language to his assistance, I soon gathered some three hundred of the required porters together, and, losing no time, set out with them to meet Stanley and his company. With the much-desired supply of porters as an outward and visible argument in my favor, I felt pretty confident that my request for permission to join the Expedition as a volunteer would not be refused.

Chapter II

I had not been very long on the march when I met Stanley and his column. I have already described my first meeting with the Expedition, but as this little book will probably be read by many who will not have an opportunity of referring to my " Five Years with the Congo Cannibals, " I make the following extract, from page 33: —

" I had broken camp early one morning, and was marching rapidly along ahead of my caravan, when in the distance coming over the brow of a hill I saw a tall Soudanese soldier bearing Gordon Bennett's yacht flag. Behind him and astride of a fine henna-stained mule, whose silver-plated trappings shone in the morning sun, was Mr. Henry M. Stanley, attired in his famous African costume. Following immediately in his rear were his personal servants, Somalis with their curious braided waistcoats and white robes. Then came Zanzibaris with their blankets, water-bottles, ammunition belts and guns. Stalwart Soudanese soldiers with dark-hooded coats, their rifles on their backs, and innumerable straps and leather belts around their bodies; and Zanzibar! porters bearing ironbound boxes of ammunition, to which were fastened axes and shovels as well as their little bundles of clothing which were roiled up in coarse sandy-colored blankets.

" Stanley saluted me very cordially and dismounted. 'Take a seat/ said he, with a wave of his hand, indicating the bare ground. We then squatted down, and he handed me a cigar from the silver case given him by

H. R. H. the Prince of Wales on the night before his departure.

" As concisely as possible I told him of my desire to join his Expedition, and after a few minutes' conversation Mr. Stanley told me he would accept me as a volunteer. He then expressed his surprise at my healthy appearance, considering that I had been so long in Africa. Having directed me to hurry on with my natives to Matadi, to bring up the loads, and as expeditiously as possible overtake him at Stanley Pool, where we should all embark together, we parted.

" Passing along I became further acquainted with the constitution of Stanley's great cavalcade. At one point a steel whale-boat was being carried in sections, suspended from poles which were each borne by four men; donkeys heavily laden with sacks of rice were next met with, and a little further on the women of Tippoo Tib's harem, their faces partly concealed, and their bodies draped in gaudily colored cloths; then at intervals along the line of march an English officer with whom, of course, I exchanged friendly salutations; then several large-horned East African goats, driven by saucy little Zanzibari boys. A short distance further on, an abrupt turn of the narrow footpath brought into view the dignified form of the renowned Tippoo Tib, as he strolled along majestically in his flowing Arab robes of dazzling whiteness, and carrying over his left shoulder a richly decorated sabre, which was an emblem of office conferred on him by H. H. the Sultan of Zanzibar. Behind him at a respectful distance followed several Arab sheiks, whose bearing was quiet and dignified. In response to my salutation they bowed most gracefully.

14 * Haijambo,' said I.

44 * Sijambo,' they replied.

44 * Khabari gani ? ' (what news ?) I inquired.

"'Khabari njema ' (good news), was the reply, and in that way I passed along the line of 700 men, in whose ^ nks were represented various types from all parts of ea^e^n equatorial Africa, each wearing the distinguishing garb ol" his own country. All the costumes and accoutrements looked bright and gay, for the Expedition had disembarked but a few days previously. As the procession filed along the narrow, rugged path, it produced an effect no less brilliant than striking. Its unbroken line extended over a distance of probably four miles."

My work at Matadi, for which point I made after leaving Mr. Stanley, was soon completed, and the cases of ammunition, provisions, and camp requirements which awaited transmission were soon en route on the shoulders of the porters. From Matadi, in accordance with my instructions, I hurried on to Manyanga, where I arrived on April 1 6th. Here I found J. Rose Troup, who had been an old comrade in the Congo service, and whose name is now so familiar to the public. With him I had to spend several days at Manyanga, owing to delay in the arrival of some of the carriers who had been dispatched from Matadi. Neither of us relished the residence at Manyanga, but there was nothing for it but to wait. The place is a most unlovely spot, and of gruesome memory for the Congo traveler, for it was here that Stanley, when founding the Congo State in 1882, suffered one of his most severe attacks of fever, and approached so near to death that he gathered his companions round his bedside to hear what he considered would be his last message. Luckily, however, for the causes of science and progress, the explorer was spared for later and more successful undertakings. It was with a feeling of relief that Troup and I were at last able to say good-bye to Manyanga.

By forced marches on foot, we hurried on in the track of the Expedition, which we found encamped round Mr. Greshoff s Dutch trading station at Kinchassa. Shortly after our arrival, Mr. Stanley informed me that he wished me to accompany him the following morning on board the "Peace," the steam-launch of the Baptist Mission, on which he was about to travel up the Congo. My kit, however, was away at Leopoldville, and unless I made up my mind to travel without any change of raiment whatever, I would have to get to Leopoldville and back in the few hours which intervened. I had tramped twenty-seven miles already that day, and it was with no light heart that I set out again. The distance back was some five miles or more, but to my weary soul it seemed double the length. I reached my scanty stock of ragged clothes eventually, however, and, having made the slight selection their condition permitted, got back to Kinchassa weary and footsore, with wet clothes and shivering limbs, about six o'clock in the morning, just in time to get on board the " Peace." My troubles with the expedition had commenced.

All was bustle and animation at Kinchassa, and my companions, after a pleasant evening and good night's rest, were in the liveliest of spirits. Everything looked rosy and promising at this point, and the future, so far as we could see, held no promise of failure in store. As the different portions of the Expedition embarked, the scene was one of great enthusiasm, and cheers and hurrahs filled the air. The " Henry Reed " took the lead with Tippoo

Tib and his people, followed immediately afterward by the steamer " Stanley," bearing the greater number of the officers, and a large portion of the Zanzibaris, with the " Florida " hulk alongside; while the " Peace/' with Stanley and myself and the remainder of the Expedition on board, brought up the rear, with the attendant whale- boats. All went well with the " Henry Reed " and the " Stanley," but matters on board the " Peace," where Mr. Stanley and I were, were anything but satisfactory. We had not been under way many minutes, when our tiller smashed under the strain of the very swift current through which we were steering, and for a short time things looked very black indeed. Of course our steering-gear became utterly unmanageable, and, to make matters worse, we were being carried by the current right on to a rocky island. The anchors were put out immediately, but for a while they proved utterly useless. They suddenly caught, and in the spasmodic shock the little steamer almost heeled over. The moment was one of grave danger, but, strangely enough not of undue excitement. Stanley, situated at the bow, with eye eagerly strained to catch the effects of our sudden stoppage, cried " Look out ! " which put everyone on the qui vive. The trembling blacks watched and waited, but moved not; and after some little time we succeeded, though with great difficulty, in getting our little vessel from its perilous position. By" the alternate working of our twinscrew arrangements we made sufficient headway to enable us to reach the station of the Sanford Exploring Expedition, about half a mile from the point where our accident had happened. Here the remainder of that day and a portion of the next were occupied in repairing the damage done, and we then rejoined the " Stanley" and " Henry Reed," which had been lying in wait for us at the head of Stanley Pool.

STANLEY'S REAR GUARD. tj

Chapter III

As we journeyed along en route for Bolobo, our next stopping-place, I 'had many talks with Mr. Stanley. It was then I became really informed as to the Expedition and its purport, and that I formally attached myself to the undertaking. My meeting with Mr. Stanley, described in the previous chapter, had been a very hurried affair, and as he was then anxious to press on, and equally desirous that his loads should follow quickly, he contented himself with a verbal arrangement, in accepting my services as a volunteer, without pay of any kind, as I had offered myself. Now, on board the " Peace," he went into the matter more fully, and obtained from me the written undertaking or contract which I quote:

" Contract of Engagement for Emin Pasha Relief Expedition.

"I, Herbert E. Ward, agree to accompany the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition, and to place myself under the command of Mr. H. M. Stanley, the leader of the Expedition, and to accept any post or position in that Expedition to which he may appoint me.

" I further agree to serve him loyally and devotedly; to obey all his orders; and follow him by whatsoever route he may choose; and to use my utmost endeavors to bring the Expedition to a successful issue.

" Should I leave the Expedition without his orders I agree to forfeit all claim to return passage money.

" Mr. H. M. Stanley agrees to pay my return passage to England, provided I continue during the whole period of the Expedition.

" I undertake not to publish anything connected with the Expedition, or to send any account to the newspapers for six months after the issue of the official publication of the Expedition by the leader or his representative.

11 Congo River, Mav 4, 1887.

" [Signed] Herbert Ward.

" [Countersigned] Henry M. Stanley."

In the course of our interviews Stanley informed me of his intention to appoint me to the position of Executive Lieutenant in charge of his No. 1 Company of Zanzibaris. Subsequently, however, in the course of the arrangements in connection with the Bolobo Camp, I learned to my disgust that this plan had been changed, and that I was to be left behind at Bolobo in command of the camp there, with Bonny and 125 men. The decision was anything but an agreeable one to me, but I had signed my contract ! As Mr. Stanley represented the matter, it was desirable that some one should take charge at Bolobo who knew the country and could speak the language. The real reason, however, for my being left behind was, that some of my fellow-officers had urged upon Mr. Stanley that it would be unfair to allow me to go ahead at the expense of any one of them being left, when they had journeyed with the Expedition from England, and I had only been " picked up " by the way in Africa. There was a good deal of fairness in the argument, I admit, and it is with no idea of complaining that I refer to the matter; nevertheless, it was an unlucky day for me when I was left at Bolobo, for in consequence of my stay there I was prevented getting to Yambuya in time to join Mr. Stanley, and so shut out from any part in the very doings of the Expedition to which I had looked forward when I joined.

Our camp at Bolobo consisted of 125 men, " weakest in body," to quote Mr. Stanley's phrase, with Bonny and myself as the only two whites. These 125 men had been selected by Mr. Stanley in order that they might be left behind for a twofold purpose: first, that they should recruit somewhat, and secondly, that they should make room for the men under command of Major Barttelot and Surgeon Parke, who had journeyed overland from Stanley Pool to Kwamouth, while we had been making our way by water. Bonny and I, with the men, had now to remain at Bolobo till the steamer " Stanley " should go to Yambuya, discharge its present load there, return to Stanley Pool in order to take up Troup and the remainder of the baggage, and call for us on the way back. The time occupied by these movements would, we estimated, leave us at Bolobo for some eight or ten weeks. During this period all the work our men would have to do would be to collect wood fuel for the " Stanley " each day in the forest — alight and easy task, adapted to their somewhat delicate condition.

We made our camp on the site of the old station which Mr. Stanley has described in his " Founding of the Congo " as having been established by him at this point, but of which scarcely any trace was now visible. Our stay was not altogether an unpleasant one, save for the unsatisfactory characteristics which attend all periods of waiting. Sport we had in plenty. The country is particularly fine and fertile, well wooded and watered, and abundantly supplied with all sorts of game — such as buffalos, elephants, hippopotami, and wild pig. My camp duties were of a purely nominal character, and my ample leisure was pretty well rilled up with sketching and shooting. Bonny and I shot several hippopotami, the meat of which was much prized by our men. It figured constantly in their bill of fare, and when it became unacceptable it was always useful in exchange with the natives for other food.

One of those awkward incidents, so unavoidable when the white man has to deal in an executive capacity with the blacks, happened while we were leading this easy existence at Bolobo. As a result of the light work they had to perform, and the natural absence of rigid discipline, our men became lazy and neglectful of those formal duties which marked the opening and closing of each day's life in camp. In this respect some were more guilty than others — many of the men were a very bad lot indeed — and eventually it became necessary to put a stop to the demoralization, which we found spreading day by day. I determined to make an example of one black — a regular scoundrel — who completely ignored orders, and altogether placed our authority at defiance. We found it utterly impossible to get him to attend morning parade, and so I gave him due notice one day that, if on the following morning he did not " fall in " as ordered, he would receive the recognized form of Zanzibari punishment, in the shape of flogging.

The morning came, but not compliance with my orders on his part. I failed to find him during the day, but in the evening on his return to camp, I ordered that he should be seized and flogged. He was a desperate bully, and the men, filled with dread of him, made but a feeble attempt to carry out my instructions. He shook them off. The moment was critical, and I realized that if I was to maintain my authority, I should have to assert it with my own right arm. I went for him, as the phrase is, and we closed with one another, the men grouped around watching the result. The mutineer was possessed of a club, and had me manifestly at a disadvantage. In the fight which ensued, my foot caught in a tent peg, and I fell back on the ground. I was at his mercy, when Bonny, rushing forward, clubbed the man with his musket, and he was secured as prisoner. My original instructions were subsequently carried out, and this mutinous spirit was quelled.

MY LIFE WIT If

Chapter IV

After we had spent about eight weeks at Bolobo, the "Stanley" passed down the river on its way to Stanley Pool for Troup and the expedition stores that had been left in his charge; and the captain delivered to me the following letter from Mr. Stanley. I quote it as showing how matters stood at this juncture, and the position I occupied in the mind of my chief:

" Yambuya Camp, Upper Aruwimi.

"■June 18, 1887.

"My dear Ward— Within please find enclosed my letter to Troup, which after reading, close envelope, and seal it, with such other matter from yourself as the contents of my letter, and your own conditions, physical and financial, will suggest is necessary.

" The < Stanley ' towing the < Florida,' and governed by the speed of the < Peace,' which was ahead and showed the way, arrived at this camp from Bangala in fourteen days. If the < Stanley ' tows only the large whale-boat, she will make the distance in twelve days easily.

"Therefore her time-table should be as follows:—

"Starting from Leopoldville, say July 5, or earlier if

PCL To Bolobo July 10, 5 days

Fuel ready at Bolobo. To Lukolela " 13, 3

To Equator " 16, 3 Halt half a day. To Bangala " 20, 4

Halt half a day. To Upoto " 25, 5

To camp here August 1, 7

27 days

" The steamer leaves here to-morrow, or early on the 20th, loaded with fuel enough, I hope, to last her to llolobo. I hope you have plenty for her to go at once down river, and you should have two days' fuel ready for her going up. If she has anything like an ordinarily quick journey, the < Stanley ' ought to be at Leopoldville on the i st or 2nd of July. Give her two days to cut fuel and clean up, she ought to start on July 4 or 5 with Troup.

" You should give the ' Stanley ' crew chop to go down to Leo and back to Bolobo if possible, if you can spare brass rods. As she has only twenty men, 200 rods for ten days will suffice. If you have goats send some down to Leo as a favor, with your compliments; these little attentions will be repaid by prompt despatch of i Stanley ' from Leo.

" Supposing i Stanley ' wrecked on her way down to Leo, you have the ' Florida ' and Greshoff steamer to fall back upon, which must be chartered at all costs in that event, but not otherwise. I am promising a liberal money present to both captain and engineer, if they hurry up here with the last contingent of men and goods.

"We found chop in plenty everywhere. We had a regular system of work. As soon as the boats touched the bank, the wood-cutters and wood-gatherers began work, and if they were active they finished long before midnight. The great thing is to collect fuel and bring it to the landing-place for cutting. The long saws require sharpening by day ready for the excellent work of them by night. We bought goats from the mission Lukolela and from the Equator and Bangala, paying for them in rods. You can do likewise.

"We distributed ammunition to the people the night before reaching the Aruwimi river.

" I regret to inform you that Baruti, the black boy who was with me in England, deserted here the night before last, taking with him two Winchester rifles, my little pocket revolver, and pedometer. With him went Mburra and Feruzi, boys belonging respectively to the captain and engineer of the ' Stanley/ They took with them a couple of Remingtons and ammunition pouches. You will have fifty-three guns with you when you come up. If you had an interpreter — if he is a boy from Upper Congo, secure him — you might be able by menace to get those guns back. I do not care for the lads. Of course the natives will strenuously deny — they always do so — but it is an absolute certainty that the boys (four) took a canoe from our landing-place. A vast amount of circumstantial evidence proving this has been collected after their departure. Your people are not first-class, yet, if these guns are not delivered consult with Captain Schogestrom what you had best do. Do not act precipitately or rashly. Offer to purchase the guns for anything they need. But do not land your people in the village, nor do not camp opposite. There is nice camping ground above the Baroko village at the confluence of a creek. Put the creek between your camp and the natives. Keep a good look out, that is all.

" Give my compliments to Bonny, and believe me anxious for your early arrival here as my lieutenant.

" Yours very sincerely,

[Signed] " Henry M. Stanley.

" Herbert Ward, Esq."

Troup and his numerous loads of ammunition, stores, cloth, beads, etc., having been taken on board, the " Stan-

STANLEY'S REAR GUARD.

ley " returned to Bolobo on July 10. We then broke up camp there, and, embarking on the steamer, we all proceeded to Yambuya to join the Rear Guard. Eager and anxious as we were to greet our brother officers once more, we paid little heed to aught save the rapidity of our passage. There was not very much, indeed, to inspire us with enthusiasm as regards the country or people lying along our route. The scenery of the Aruwimi river up which we traveled, after leaving the Congo, though somewhat more varied than in the case of the other tributaries, was not in any sense remarkable; the forests lining the river exhibiting elements of past glory, rather than of present magnificence. As for the people, they were of too warlike a character to permit of any anxiety on our part for delay.

Our journey, however, was attended with a mishap, which at one time assumed a very threatening aspect indeed. On July 14, when our vessel was steaming ahead at full speed, we were suddenly brought to a stand-still with a violent shock. We struck something, felt ourselves thrown back, and then we stuck fast. A swift examination showed that we had run on a " snag " or submerged tree root which had caught us amidships. We tried to steam ahead, or to reverse our motion, but with no avail. We were on a pivot as it were, and could do nothing but swing round. Luckily for us, our ship's bottom continued watertight, and therefore a certain measure of safety was assured. We were, however, a good distance from shore, and in the midst of a very strong current. Providentially, as it were, some canoes now appeared in sight, and we succeeded in gaining the sympathy and co-operation of their occupants, but not without a good deal of difficulty.

The natives, having bargained with us, agreed to take our men ashore, while we endeavored to put matters right on board. They left with the intention of returning immediately, but as they did not put in a speedy reappearance, I went ashore to hurry them up. I found it impossible to get them back as early as we had hoped, and, as it was now becoming dark, had to be content with their promise to come at dawn.

We were in an exceedingly awkward position, and steam was kept up all night, in view of a possible escape. Sleep was out of the question. Luckily for us, our black men, not realizing their danger, saved us additional difficulty in this direction. The canoes put in their promised appearance on the morning of the 15th, but it was blowing so hard that they were half full of water when they reached us. With their aid we lightened the steamer, and after three days of danger and difficulty were enabled to proceed again with everything intact.

At length we came in sight of Yambuya, and obtained a first glimpse of that sad scene of so much suffering, disaster, and death. All the blackness and darkness, however, was mercifully withheld from our vision, and now, as we steamed up, we had no room for other feelings than those of bright hopefulness and cheery anticipation. As the "Stanley," rushed along, our straining eyes caught sight of a brown patch in the forest bank ahead, which, as we drew nearer, resolved itself into a scene made up of conically shaped huts inside a picturesque fortification. On the beach, awaiting our advent, was a crowd of swarthy Zanzibaris and Soudanese soldiery, while thrown into strong relief by the effective background were the figures of Barttelot and Jameson, walking up and down together.