My last cruise; or, where we went and what we saw: being an account of visits to the Malay and Loo-Choo Islands, the coasts of China, Formosa, Japan, Kamtschatka, Siberia, and the mouth of the Amoor River

Front matter

IN JAPAN.

PIIILADELPHIA

MY

Preface

One of the most prolific sources of loss to the merchant, and, through him, to the world at large, exists in the incorrectness of many of the charts by which his ships are sailed. There are also many coasts of which we have no charts at all, and there are various currents with whose strength and direction we do not pretend to be acquainted.

Besides, there are some few branches of our common family of whom we know little or nothing, and there is also a vast extent of the earth's surface yet awaiting the first pressure of the explorer's foot.

To test the accuracy of charts extant, to prepare others of unknown coasts, to follow the trackless path of the wayward current, to lift the veil that hung between civilization and the customs and habits of isolated tribes and nations, and to collect data from unfrequented parts of our globe for the advancement of science, the Government of the United

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States sent out the North Pacific Surveying and Exploring Expedition; and the following pages are simply intended to show where it was that we went, and what it was that we saw, while engaged in the attainment of these objects.

And now, in presenting them to the public, I advance but one claim to its approbation : i.e. their contents, though limited, and confined mostly to personal observation while serving successively on board of several vessels of the squadron, are strictly matter-of-fact, and, though slightly coloured by the excitement of feeling consequent upon my having participated in most of the scenes of peril and adventure which they will be found to contain, yet is the colouring honest, and not at all calculated to impart incorrect impressions.

The Author.

CHAPTER I. FAQi

Introduces the reader to the Expedition, and carries him to the Cape of Good Hope ; after which he is taken back to the Cape-De Verde Islands, and from thence again to the Cape of Good Hope 13

Chapter II

We receive a visit which is not intended to inquire after our health, and make the acquaintance of " Lieutenant Paget, R.N. ;" after which the purser and myself "smell a rat" and fire at a catbird, to the infinite terror of some Hottentot women 23

Chapter III

We make up a party to visit Cape Town, and take our seats in a chai-iot — ^We read poetry in four languages, and thiak that it must be a fine thing to be a Mormon — ^We make the acquaintance of an eager gentleman, and conceive a high idea of the hospitality of Cape Town 37

Chapter IV

We leave Simon's Town and sail for Batavia, where we receive a visit that does relate to our health, and see a remarkable gun ; after which we listen to several astonishing accounts from an English resident, and again put to sea 54

Chapter V

We reach Gaspar Straits, and commence our survey by firing a gun — I am ordered on temporary duty, which lasts four months and enables me

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PAOB

to visit Singapore — Vast preparations of an alarmist to receive pirates, and the way in •which vre learned the meaning of the Malay word «'man-ar-r" 74

Chapter VI

We are deserted by the Hancock and Kennedy, and find ourselves called upon to enjoy a moonlight walk, which proves to be so pleasant that we continue the exercise for two days — We visit a Malay village, and are cautioned against the ferocity of Chinese dogs 92

Chapter VII

We arrive at Hong-Kong, and find more repairs wanted — Commander Ringgold returns to the United States in bad health, and Lieutenant- Commanding John Rodgers takes the command of the Expedition — Something about human life and ducks in China, and how we were liberally entei'tained by the foreign merchants of Canton 113

Chapter VIII

How we talked of " visiting Pekin by water," and how the " old John" and Cooper were pressed into the corps diplomatique — How an old, tub amused herself by rolling her masts out, and how a New- York pilot-boat weathered a gale — How we visited the great city of Fou- Chow-Foo, and how we saw cormorants catching fish 127

Chapter IX

We arrive at Shanghae, whence we sail with the commissioners for the Pi-ho — We pass over the Yellow Sea in fine style, anchor in sight of the mouth of the Pi-ho, and send in the smaller vessels — We fail to "reach Pekin by water," and return in disgust to Shanghae, where the old John's engine "runs down" 143

Chapter X

We hear a distressing rumour and are greatly dispirited — We are requested by the merchants of Shanghae to attack a piratical squadron,

.-:,,and evince a praiseworthy readiness for action — The "old John" astonishes the Chinese of the Wan-chew River, after which she visits Formosa and liberates two Chinese convicts 159

CONTENTS. y

Chapter XI. Paqs

Something about the Anakirima group of islands, and climbing hills — Also a word in regard to Loo-chooans, and two missionaries who resided among them, and how it was that we left Loo-choo and arrived in Japan 180

Chapter XII

We land in Japan, and •visit a number of Americans and one Russian — " Mahomet and the mountain" differ as to the most pleasant direction for a stroll, and finally part company, to the evident annoyance of the latter 203

Chapter XIII

Something about buying and selling in Japan, and how they used Commodore Perry's treaty to swindle us — Also, how they ask foreigners to let people enjoy their meals in quiet, and how a foreigner felt Unusually small 221

Chapter XIV

Something about baths and bathing in Japan, and how they objected to our surveying their coasts — How we overcame their objections, and how Tatz-nosky took several long rides — How Bunsby discovered land, and how the "old John" crossed the Straits of T'Sugar 241

Chapter XV

How brass buttons are valued in Japan, and how partridges are there transformed into singing-birds — How we visited a sea-god's temple, and how a German explorer preferred remaining outside — How some Americans leaned on Commodore Perry's treaty, and how it gave way under them 270

Chapter XVI

We pass before the great city of Matsmai, to the wonder of the Japanese, continue to the northward along the west coast of the island of Jesso, beat a Japanese officer on the head, and finally arrive at the town of Tomari, where we have a good look at the Ainu, or "hairy Kuriles" — The last of Japan and the commencement of a heavy fog... 295

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Chapter XVII. Page

We reach the peninsula of Kamtschatka, follow its west coast to the northward, and discover a coal-mine and a half-buried village — After which we prove a new-fashioned bootjack, and take a dip into the science of geology — We find that shower-baths are not always cleansing 317

Chapter XVIII

We leave the coal-mine for a hunt, and encounter another party similarly engaged — We return with them to the village and are hospitably entertained — The headman not an advocate of the Maine liquor-law — How we "coaled ship," and how we ran a race with a flood-tide... 343

Chapter XIX

We enter the Gulf of Penjinks and reach our highest northern latitude, after which we return to the Okotsk, and cross over to the coast of Siberia — We narrowly escape shipwreck, and finally arrive at a place called Ola, where we are regaled by the sight of bullocks and the taste of milk , 372

Chapter XX

Some other things about " Ola," showing the reader how an old woman nearly lost her favourite milch-cow, and how they catch fish in that out-of-the-way part of the world, etc. etc. — ^We arrive at Fabius Island, Bay of Taousk, and regale ourselves upon whortleberries 393

Chapter XXI

We visit Armen and buy turnips " by the patch," encounter a vituperative gentleman and some very pretty young ladies, and return on board — After which we steam farther down the coast, pay a nocturnal visit to another settlement, and end by attempting to wade a Siberian ford 408

Chapter XXII

We waylay a Siberian bear and narrowly escape "catching a Tartar;" after which we engage in a stampede, climb a very steep hill, and then descend again to our boat 426

CONTENTS. 11

Chapter XXIII. ?aoe

We arrive at Ayan and fall in with, some old acquaintances — After which we narrowly escape being feasted to death by the Russians, are told some "stunning" yarns, see a whale struck, and finally get safely to sea 449

Chapter XXIV

We visit the Tschantar Islands, partake largely of wild rhubarb, and capture one of the inhabitants — After which we sail for the Amoor River, where we fall in with the boats of the Russian squadron, fail to pass through into the Gulf of Tartary, and finally return into the Okotsk Sea 483

Conclusion

We commence our homeward-bound voyage and are stopped by a northeast gale, after which a westerly hurricane comes to our assistance and frightens the " old John" into unusual activity — We are attacked by the scurvy, arrive at San Francisco, and hear various kinds of news — The last of the '* old John," and an idea of the results of the cruise 495

MY LAST CRUISE.