Mount Seir, Sinai and western Palestine. Being a narrative of a scientific expedition

Front matter

j^

I

%1-^^

Preface

The outcome of an Expedition is a book; and in the preparation of this narrative, whicli has been a labour of love, I have many friends to thank for their assistance. But I must here confine my special acknowledgment to two composite bodies, namely, the members of the Expedition, and the Committee and Secretary of the " Palestine Exploration Fund," who have endeavoured to meet my wishes in every vraj.

For the defects which may be found in the book itself, I can only plead the pressure on my time from many engagements.

THE AUTHOR.

Dublin,

lO^Zi October, 1884.

Chapter I

Project of a Scientific Expedition under the auspices of the Committee of the Palestine Exploration Fund. — Members of the Expedition. — Its scope and intention. — AiTangeraents with Messrs. T. Cook and Son. — Preparations for the journey. — Apparatus. — Departure and route to Venice. — Embarkation on board the " Tanjore." — -The Adriatic and Brindisi. — Fellowpassengers. — The Mediterranean. — Splendid effects by night .. pages 1-10.

Chapter II

Arrival at Port Said. — General Sir^. Wood and party. — Leave taking of fellow passengers. — We proceed by steamer to Alexandria. — Mr. Le Mesurier's proposals for preventing the silting up of the Ship Canal. — The harbour of Alexandria. — Courtesy of Her Majesty's Consul, Mr. Cookson.^ — Condition of Alexandria since the bombardment. — Pompey's Pillar. — Leave Alexandria for Cau'o. — The Nile Delta. — Habits and mode of cultivation by the Egyptians. — Mehemet Ali's plan for encouraging the planting of the palm. — Cause of the fertility of Egypt. — Source of sediments in the Nile waters. — Visit to the Pyramids. — Their present condition owing to the removal of the outer casings. — Mr. Hart's adventure. — The great bakhsheesh question. — The Sphinx, and Temple of the Sphinx. — Visit to Jebel Mokattam with Dr. Schweinfurth. — View from the summit. — The Art Museum, Cairo. — Nile oscillations. — Arrival of the Towara Arabs. — Departure from Cairo, and journey to Suez. — Visit to Jebel Attakah. — Arab sailors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 11-27-

Chapter III

Arrival at Moses' Wells. — First Sabbath in the Desert. — Our camp and its furniture. — Start on Monday morning " on the track of tlie Israelites." — Proposed route through tlie Sinaitic Peninsula. — Geological questions to be determined. — Group of Egyptian vultures. — Taset Bisher. — The scene of Prof. Palmer's murder. — Account tliereof from our Arabs. — Camp at Wady Sudur. — Desert scenery. — The jerboa. — Beauty of tlic desert melon. — My camel and liis driver, Sala. — Jebel Hamam. — Wady Gharandel, the

V.

X CONTENTS.

Elim of the Bible.— The Wady Amarah, the Marah of the Eible.— Cause of the "bitterness" of the waters. — Evidences of ancient lakes. — The deposits of Wady Useit. — The date palm. — Arab mode of planting. — Tea-aces formed by torrent action ,, .. .. .. .. .. pages 28-39.

Chapter IV

The sandstone district of Ramleh. — Its position with reference to the limestone region on the one hand, and to the granite region on the other. — Character of the sandy plain. — Teniperatui-e in shade at noon. — Camp in the Wady Nasb. — Fossil hunting. — A weU in the wilderness. — Natural pyramids of sandstone, near the Wady Suwig. — Turquoise mines. — Palmer and Drake's camping ground in the Wady Kamileh. — Habits of wild animals

Chapter V

Granitic Region. — Contrast of features with the region of sandstone. — Remnants of the latter formation. — The Wady Berk, desolate scenery. — The Zygophyllum or erymtli of the Arabs. — Remarkable dykes of trap-rock. — Camp in Wady Lebweh, at a height of 3,800 feet. — First glimpse of Serbal. — Plants of the desert. — Natural gardens. — Heights of the mountains of the Peninsula. — View of the mountains of Sinai from tlte Wady Berrah. — Character of the Wady es Sheikh. — Grrove of tamarisks. — Ancient lake-beds. — Kitchener's triangulation from the granite ridge. — Grand gorge of th e Wady el Watiy eh. — Rocks of porphyry. — Camp near the Convent of St. Catherine

Chapter VI

Mount Sinai. — Ras Sufsafeh, "the Mountain that can be touched." — Excursion to Mount Sinai. — Wady es Sheikh. — Ascent of Jebel Musa. — The cleft in the rock. — Character of the scenery and view from the summit. — Old church of the Empress Helena. — The Coney. — The Pilgrims' road. — Deceptive view of the convent. — Elijah's Cave. — Entomological torments in camp. — The Ibex, or "Wild Goat" of the Bible. — We retrace our steps, through the Gorge of Watiyeh. — The Ain el Akhdar. — The Wady el Zelegah, its character and remarkable scenery. — Pyramids and tors of sandstone. — Great landsUps. — Fossiliferous strata. — Jerboa burrowings. — Narrow escape from a fall.— The W4dy el Biyar ; terraces of alluvial gravel. — Jebel el Berg and Jebel el Ain . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 51-57.

Chapter VII

Grand gorge of the Wady el Ain. — Probable route of the Israelites. — Fine springs of water. — Walls of granite capped by sandstone. — Effects of water erosion. — Results of a thunderstorm. — Our Sunday camp in the

CONTENTS. XI

Wacly el Ain. — Strange conduct of English engineers. — Apparent attempt to forestall our party. — Bernhard Heilpern is dispatched to Akabah by forced inarches. — Jebei el Aradeli. — Entrance of the Wady el Tihyeh. — Wells in sandstone rock. — March towards the table-land of the Tih .. pages 58-61.

CHAPTER Till.

Region of the Tih. — Disappearance of the limestone escarpment. — Dislocations of the strata. — Desert partridges. — Ibraham's views about Bedawins. — The Sheikh prefers not to " settle down." — The story of the Dabour tribe. — Camp in the Thieves' Valley. — Extensive pasturage. — Coldness of the morning air. — Escarpment of Turf-er-R\ikn. — Ridge of porphyry. — Great fault in the strata. — The Haj Road. — Descent to the shores of the Gulf of Akabah. — We find our tents pitched behind the palm-grove. — Bernhard Heilpern has been successful. — Interview with Sheikh Mahomed. — The Sheikh's brother Ali. — Negotiations for convoy along the Arabah Valley. — A hitch occiu's in the terms. — Mahomed is resolute. — Sealing the " Instrument."— -Prospect of going to Gaza. — Great disappointment. — We dismiss our Towara guides with presents . . . . . . . . pages 62-70.

Chapter IX

Description of Akabah. — The Elath of the Bible. — Palm trees. — Position of Ezion Geber. — Waters of the gulf, shelly gravel of the beach. — Natural fertility of the soil. — Character of the inhabitants. — Suspicions regarding Mahomed. — Measures for " keeping him straight." — He spurns our offer of a revolver.— Advent Sunday. — Ai'rival of pilgrims from Mecca. — Start from Akabah on Monday morning. — Great thunderstorm. — The camp breaks up in confusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 71-74.

Chapter X

The Wady el Arabah. — Its importance in Israelitish history. — Its relations to the Jordanic depression. — Position of the great fault.— Site of Ezion Geber. — Raised sea beach of the Arabah VaUey. — Appearance of our Alowin guides. — Abundance of game. — Magnificent eagle. — Sketch of the geological structure of the Arabah Valley. — Its general aspect. — Absence of streams. — Original physical condition. — The wells of Ain el Ghudyan. — Camp near centre of Ai-abah Valley.— Grand scenery. — The "saddle" of Wady el Arabah. — The Wady Gharandel. — Footprints of wild animals on the desert sands pages 75-84.

V

Xll CONTEXTS.

CHAPTER Xr.

l\'tra and Mount Hor. — Level of the watershed or saddle of the Arabah Valley. — Question of practicability of a ship-canal. — Appearance and structure of Mount Hor (Jebel Haroun). — The mosque of Aaron's tomb. — Kitchener and Armstrong triangulate from the summit. — Proposal to steal a march. — Sheikh All protests. — Camp at entrance to Wadj Haroun. — Oleander trees. — We dispatch a messenger to Sheikh Arari. — Sheikli Abdullah arrives from Pefcra. — Exorbitant demands. — Major Kitchener produces his firman. — Dispute as to terms, and rupture of negociations.- — We strike out tents. — Ultimately the Petra Sheikhs give in. — Statement of original demands, and ultimate terms. — Early start for Mount Hor and Petra. — Remarkable appearance of the tableland of the Tih. — Flock of vultures. — Abdullah's conversation with Ibraham. — DiiEcult pass; grand scenery. — Sandstone clills and terraces. — Petra and its architectural remains. — Marvellous effects cf colouring. — Return of our party to the camp. — Results of the day's work. — Altitude of Mount Hor. — Exciting scene with the Petra Arabs

Chapter XII

The Arabah Valley west of Mount Hor. — Jebels Jerafeh and Magrah. — Effects of floods. — First glimpse of the hills of Judaea. — Sheikh Ali proposes to conduct us down to the shore of the Salt Sea. — Agreeable surprise, and idtimate arrangements. — Ain Abu Werideh.^ — Ancient Salt Sea terraces. — Semifossil shells. — Samrat Fiddan. — Ancient gravel beach. — Terraces of the Wady el Jeib.— Camp at Wady Suweirah. — We dispatch a messenger to Jerusalem. — Suspicious conduct of Sheikh Ali. — Scenery of the Wady Suweirah. — Petra Arabs on our ti-ack ; we think it better to move on. — Thunderstorm. — Disintegration of the rocks of the Arabah Valley. — Formation of the physical features. — Ancient ruins of the Wady T'lah. — Remarkable terraces of the ancient sea.— Camp at the edge of The Ghor

Chapter XIII

The Gh&r and Salt Sea. — Descent into The Ghor. — Ancient teiTace. — Problem requiring solution. — Appearance of Jebel Usdum. — Arab camps. — Group of Arab children. — Our progress barred by Arab cavalry. — Interview between Kitchener and Arari. — They come to terms. — Arrival at the village of Es Safieh. — Vegetation of The Ghor. — Cultivation of the ground by the Ghawarneh. — Our camp in The Ghor. — Visit to the shore of the Salt Sea. — Nocturnal experiences. — Chorus of jackals. — Jebel es Somrah and Wady el Hessi. — Habits of the Ghawarneh. — Herds of camels. — Invitation from the Sheikh of Kerak politely declined. — Visit of the Petra Arabs. — Excursion into the mountains. — Barometric pressure in The Ghor. — Unwelcome tiduigs of quarantine. — Hopes deferred. — News from Jerusalem and disappointment.— Prospect of Christmas by the Salt Sea. — Hassani again dispatdied to

CONTEXT^;. xni

Jerusalem. — Visit to ancient ruins. — Strange way of viewing a landscape. — Our Alowin guides. — Character of the Arabs. — Ruins of Lebrusch. — Gorgeous effects of colour. — New disappointments and fresh surprises. — Arrival of party of Arabs from Cairo with letter from the Consul-General. — Christmas Day in the Wilderness. — Depression of the mental barometer. — Mr. Laurence entertains the Arabs with electrical experiments. — Christmas dinner. — Visit of Slieikh Arari of Petra. — Arrival of horses and mules from Jerusalem. — Peremptory orders to proceed to Gaza for quarantine. — Preparations for an early start for the opposite side of The Ghor. — We part witli Sheikh Ali pages 108-128.

Chapter XIV

March from Es Safieh, and cross the Slimy Plain. — Jebel Usdum ; its beds of rock salt. — Hart and Laurence explore the upper surface. — Mr. Hart's accoimt of the structure of Jebel Usdum. — Evidences that the waters of the Salt Sea are still leceding. — Wady Muliauwat. — Barometric reading by the shore of the sea. — The Wady Zuweii'ah. —Difficult pathway. — Ancient bed of the Salt Sea filling in old valleys in the limestone. — -Ancient ruins. — A march in darkness. — Camp at Wady el Abd. — Our Arabs entertain us to coffee. — Flocks of the Jahalin Arabs. — Large cairn. — Remarkable view therefrom.— The Wilderness of Pai-an. — Camp at Tel el Milh (Moladah). — Evidences of former habitations. — The ancient wells. — Arrival at Beersheba. — Abraham's Wells. — Captain Conder's discovery. — Traces of extensive ruins. — Desolation of the land. — Tel Abu Hareireh. — Camels used for ploughing. — Great extent of cultivated land. — Xcav formation of .'sandstone.— Geological structure of Western Palestine. — Old sea-beds with shells. — Major Kitchener leaves the party for Egypt. — " The Lily of the Field." — Incident at Khurbet el Baha. — The Sheikh of the Tihyaha. — Large herd of gazelles. — First view of Gaza and of the Mediterranean. — Arrival at our quarantine camp. — ilr. Schapira's kind offices. — We communicate with Lord Dufferin pages 129-143.

Chapter XV

Amongst the Philistines. — Arrival of the mctlical officer. — Telegram from Lord Dufferin. — Release on the fifth day. — We square accoimts with the doctor. — Start from Gaza. — Ancient olive-grove. — Extensive sand-hills and their devastating effects. — Camp at El Medjet. — Large olive trees. — Ashdod (Asdud). — The great highway of Philistia. — Arrival at Jaffa. — Take up our quarters at the Jerusalem Hotel. — Natural breakwater. — Calcareous rock in course of formation.— Start for Ramleh.- — ^Pretty gardei.s and remarkable tower. — A group of lepers. — The Lepers' Hospital at Jerusalem. — Bab-el-Wiidy good botanical ground. — Remarkable features of the central table-land of Juda?a. — Effects of cultivation. — Kulonieh (or Emmaus).— We enter the Gate of Jtrusalcm . . . . . . . . pages 1 11-151.

XIV CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVT.

Kind reception by friends. — Geological structure of district. — Marble and building-stone of Jervisalem. — Succession of strata. — Visit to Solomon's Pools. — Signs of progress. — Ancient aqueduct. — Generous offer of Lady Burdett-Coutts. — Turkish obstinacy. — Explorations of Colonels Wilson and Warren. — The Pools. — The " Gardens of Solomon." — Mr. Meshullam's successful industry. — Bethlehem. — The Convent and Church of the Nativity. — The Well of David. — The Cave of Adullam. — Ecturn to Jerusalem, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 152-158.

Chapter XVII

Visit to Jericho and the Jordan. — The Mount of Ohves. — Our young Sheikh. — Bethany. — The Wady Sidr, remarkable contortions of strata. — Russian pilgrims. — Wady Kelt (Brook Cherith). — View from the edge of The Ghor. — Camp at Ancient Jericho, and the warm baths of Ain es Sultan. — Terraces of the ancient Salt Sea. — The fords of Jordan. — Cause of the turgidity of the water. — Russian pilgrims. — A gallop across the plain . . pages 159-164.

Chapter XVIII

Rettn-n by Mar Saba. — Wady Kiieiserah. — What has become of Sodom and Gomorrah ? — The tomb of Moses. — Good wells. — Descent into Wady Mukalik. — Bed of an ancient lake. — Contortions in the strata and their curious appearance. — Chase after a rvmaMay horse. — Difficult road. — Mode of formation of the ridges and valleys. — Arrival at our camp at Mar Saba. — Remarkable gorge of the Kedron. — Evidence of a former rainy period. — Fault at entrance to the gorge. — Cliffs of the Valley of Hinnom. — Arrival at Jerusalem. — Preparations for joiu'uey northwards . . pages 165-169.

Chapter XIX

Snowed up in Jerusalem. — Fall of temperature and westerly gale. — Effects of the snow-fall. — The country becomes impassable. — Sufferings of the people. — A last view over Jerusalem and its surroundings. — Remarkable transparency of the air. — Departure for Jaffa. — Appearance of the country under snow. — Arrival at Jafia .. .. .. r. pages 170-174.

Chapter XX

Homeward Bound. — Passage to Beyrut. — The snow-clad Lebanon.— Visit to Dr. Bliss and H.B.M. Consul-General. — Visit to Miss Taylor's School. — Lokandel el Motram. — Sail for Cyprus. — Return home by Smyrna and Constantinople. — Visit to Lord Dufferin. — The Oriental Express. — Arrival in London. — Warm reception by the Committee of the Palestine Exploration Fmid pages 175-177.

CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXI

Summary of Scientific Results : 1. Kitchener's Triangulation of the Wady el Arabah. — 2. Rectifications of the Salt Sea borders. — 3. G-eological reconnaissance along the route. — 4. Collections of Fossils at Wady Nasb and elsewhere. — 5. Determinations of the geological ages of the two sandstone formations. — 6. The determination of the position of the Great Jordan VaUey and Arabah fault. — 7. Determination of the ancient levels of the Red Sea, the Mediterranean, and the Salt Sea (Dead Sea). — 8. The recognition of ancient lake beds in Arabia Petraea, &c. — 9. Evidences of a former " Pluvial period." — 10. Connection between the volcanic eruptions of Northern Palestine and Syria with the Glacial epoch. — 11. Determination of the Isolations of the strata of Jebel Usdum with those of the Ancient Salt Sea. — 12. Construction of a new geological map of the whole region visited. — 13. Series of Meteorological observations by Mr. Laurence. — 14. Series of photographs by Dr. E. G. Hull. — 15. Collection of plants by Mr. Hart

Chapter XXII

Some of the remarkable sites visited by the Expedition : 1. The passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites ; Route of the Israelites from Zoan— probable place of the passage ; Explanation by wliich the Bible Narrative may be harmonised with pliysical phenomena. — 2. The Giving of the Law ; Claims of Jebel Musa ; Position of Ras Sufsafeh, and the camping ground of Israel ; The streams of water — their origin ; No evidence of recent volcanic action. — 3. Position of Kadesh, Barnea, and Mount Hor ; Views of Dr. Trumbull ; Mr. Rolands' and Mr. Holland's identification ; View from Mount Hor (Jebel Haroun).— 4. The site of Calvary ; Claims of the Cliurch of the Holy Sepulchre inadmissable ; Evidences in favour of the hill of Jeremiah's Grotto pages 185-192.

Appendix

1. Major Kitchener's Report pages 199-222.

2. Mr. George Armstrong's account of the Wady Arabah . . page 222.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

No. PAGE

Grand Gorge of the Wiidy el Ain. . .. .. .. Frontispiece.

1. View of the Mokattam Hills and Suburbs of Cairo from the west

bank of the Nile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to face 17

2. Lake Deposits of the Wad_Y Useit. . .. .. .. .. „ 37

3. View from the Wady Suwig, Pyramids of red sandstone resting

on granite and porphyry . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

4. Sandstone Tor, resting on a basis of granite and poiplnry, seen frcm

5. Escarpment of Turf-er-Kukn, looking ucrth and west .. to face 65

6. Geological section along the Haj road above the Gulf of Akabah . . 68

7. General Section across the Wady el Arabah to illustrate its geological

8. Jebel Nachaleagh, (or Jebel Umm Lamel) and the Edomite Mountains

near Wady Abu Berka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

9. Ain el Ghiidyan, in the Wady el Arabah .. ., . . to fate 83

10. Mount Hor (Jebel Haroun), from the watershed of the Wady el

11. Pass between Jebels Ma grah and Jeraf eh .. .. • • » 97

12. Shells from the ancient bed of the Salt Sea near Ain Abvi Werideh . . 1( 0

13. Pass into the Wady el Weibeh 103

14. Terraces above the descent to the Ghor .. .. .. .. .. 1l6

15. Geological section through the gorge of the Wady el Hes.si . . . . 114

16. Ruins of Lebrusch and of ancient town east of the Ghor . . to face 122

17. Bent joint-planes m rock salt along the face of Jebel Usdum. . . . 130

18. Abraham's Well, Beersheba . . . . . . . . . . . , 137

19. Wady Kadeis and Wady Jaifeh, from a sketch by the late Eev. F. W.

Holland 189

20. Diagram of Triangulation from Akubah to the Dead Sea .. to face 199

21. Figures cut on the rock in Wady Zeleka .. . . .. „ 204

22. Bedouin tribe marks, and Arabic inscriptions in Wady Ghuweir „ 213

23. Section along the Wady Arabah . . . . . , . . . . „ 222

Map SHOWING EouTE OF THE Expedition ,. .. .. „ 176

NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH ARABIA

PETR^A, THE VALLEY OF THE ARABAH,

AND WESTERN PALESTINE.

Chapter I. "outwaed Bound."

The work of the Palestine Survey, which had been partly completed in Moab by Captain Conder, E.E,, having been interrupted through the opposition of the Turkish Government, the Executive Committee of the Palestine Exi^loration Fund determined to undertake a geological reconnaissance of Western Palestine and the Jordan Valley, in accordance with the programme of work to be done under the auspices of this admirable Society. The Topographical Survey of Western Palestine had now been completed and published, so that the time seemed ripe for investigating the physical phenomena of Western Palestine, the Valley of the Jordan, and of the deep depression in which lies the Salt Sea.' An offer to undertake this exi^loration having been made to me by Colonel Sir Charles W. Wilson, on the part of the Executive Committee of the Palestine Exploration Fund, I consulted with some friends regarding the nature of the countries to be traversed, climate, and other matters ; and having received sufficiently encouraging replies, I gladly accepted the offer, and began preparations for carrying it out : — the Lords of the Committee of Council having been so good as to grant me three months' special leave of absence from my official duties in Ireland.

I had long taken a deep interest in the physical history of Palestine. I had read nearly everything that had been written on the subject,

* I prefer this name to that of tlie " Dead Sea," a name of mucli laterorigin, and originating in a misconception. The name " Salt Sea " (Gen. xiv, 3) is peculiarly appropriate to an inland lake of such intense salinity, and was in use at the time when the Pentateuch was written. The Arabic name for this lake is " El Balir Lut," the Sea of Lot.

B

2 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH ARABIA PETR/I'.A,

including the gi'eat work of M. Lartet, the geologist attached to the expedition of the Due de Luynes, and had even gone so far as to deliver a public lecture on the physical history of the Jordan Valley and the Salt Sea in the theatre of the Eoyal Dublin Society.' Little did I think, when delivering that lecture, that I should have an opportunity in a few months' time of testing the correctness of my views by actual observation on the spot ! Such, however, was the case ; and within a few weeks I was busily engaged in my preparations for departure for the East.

It was of first importance to choose suitable companions. The Committee kindly allowed me to select an assistant ; and I gladly accepted the offer of my son, Dr. E. Gordon Hull, to accompany me in that capacity, and, also, as honorary medical officer to the party. Major Kitchener, R.E., then in Egypt, was nominated by the Committee to undertake the topographical survey of the Wady el Arabah, and region to the north as far as the shores of the Salt Sea, so as to join up the triangulation with that of the Ordnance Survey of Palestine f and Mr. Armstrong, formerly Sergeant- Major R.E., who had taken part in nearly the whole of the previous survey, was appointed his assistant. It is scarcely necessary for me to say with what pleasure I received the tidings of the appointment of Major Kitchener as my colleague. I was aware of his great experience in the work of the Palestine Survey, of his knowledge of the character and. customs of the Arab tribes amongst whom we were to travel, and of his ability to converse in their language. All this inspired an amount of confidence of ultimate success I should not otherwise have felt, and the result proved that my confidence was well founded. In matters connected with our dealing with the Arabs I readily deferred to his judgment, which I always found to be judicious, while he often acted as spokesman in our negociations with the Sheikhs.

It was, also, a matter of much importance to the safety of the party, towards the attainment of our objects, that great prudence should be exercised in dealing with the Bedawins ; — at least we supposed so. The unhappy murder of Professor Palmer, Lieut. Gill, and their companions,

' An abstract of this lecture appeared in Nature, March, 1883.

- The Palestine Surrey Map, published en a scale of f of an inch to one statute mile, includes the western shore of the Dead Sea as far as Sebbeb ; from this point the southern boundary runs along Wady Sei;\al, Wady el Milh, Wady es Seba, and the Wady Ghuzzeh, to the shore of the Mediterranean Sea, south of Gaza.

THE VALLEY OF THE AllABAH, AND WESTERN PxVLESTINE. 3

by the Bedawins of the Tih, was still fresh in our memories, and sometimes caused a cold thrill when I thought thereon. Some of my more judicious friends, when speaking with me on the prospects of my journey, accompanied their congratulations and good wishes with gentle hints to beware of the treacherous Bedawin, and " to remember the fate of Palmer." They little thought, kind souls, how they were adding to my own mental anxiety, which I trust I did not allow any one to share, or even suspect. I kept it under lock and key, along with Besant's narrative of that horrible tragedy, and insisted, in reply to my friends, that the circumstances of Professor Palmer and myself were entirely different (which was undoubtedly the case), and that in the capture and execution of the murderers the Bedawins had received a lesson which they would not readily forget. Such was also the view that my friend and counsellor. Sir Charles Wilson, had endeavoured to impress upon me.^

As will be seen in the sequel, both the scope and area of the Expedition were considerably enlarged as time went on. In the letter of Mr. Glaisher,^ F.R.S., Chairman of the Executive Committee in which the route and objects to be kept in view were definitely laid down, it was stated that we were to proceed overland to Egypt, where we should be joined by Major Kitchener, and from thence strike into the desert of Sinai, which we were to traverse as far as the head of the Gulf of Akabah. From thence we were to proceed northwards along the whole length of the Wady el Arabah, to the southern end of the Salt Sea, and proceeding along the western shore as far as Ain Jidi (Engedi), turn up into the tableland of Judea to Hebron, from whence the officers of the Engineers wore to return to Egypt, while the other members of the Expedition were to proceed to Jerusalem, and organise another expedition into the Jordan Valley, Moab, and Northern Palestine. It will thus be seen that a tour of unusual extent and interest was placed within our reach, including countries and places second to none in importance from their sacred associations, their historical antecedents, and the physical conditions under which they are placed. The Committee also took care that everything should be done for the

' The matter is very fully gone into in Mr. Ecsant's " Life of Professor Palmer." There can be no doubt, as we afterwards learned on the spot, that Palmer's death was planned by the agents of Arabi Pasha, and that the Arabs, who wore to a man on Arabi's side, were onlj carrying out the orders thej' had received from Egypt.

- Of date 7t.h Jidy, 18S3.

B 2

4 xarhativp: of an expedition through arabia petr^ea,

comfort and safety of the travellers. The Egyptian Government, through the Foreign Office, ottered an escort as far as Akabah, the limit of Egyptian territory ; but as we had no reasons for apprehension from the Arabs in the Sinaitic peninsula, we did not think it necessary to avail ourselves of the kindness of CherifF Pasha, who had offered through Major Kitchener to give us every assistance in his power. The district where an escort of soldiers was likely to be of use lay between Akabah and the Salt Sea, and here the Egyptian escort would have been unable to accompany us.

The party as it now stood consisted of four ; but it was obviously desirable that it should include a naturalist, who should make notes and collections of the rei:)resentative fauna and flora of the district to be traversed ; and of a meteorologist, who should also make observations on the temperature, rainfall, and aneroid determinations of the levels of special points along our route. I therefore cast about in my mind for volunteers having the necessary time and qualifications to undertake those departments of research, and was most fortunate in both instances. Mr. Henry Chichester Hart, who joined us in the former capacity, had been personally known to me for several years as an ardent investigator of the flora of Ireland, having made several reports on the botany of special districts of that country, under the auspices of the Royal Irish Academy. He had also acted as Naturalist in the expedition of Sir George (then Captain) Nares, R.N., to the Arctic regions, which had penetrated as far north as 83° 14' lat. To these antecedents Mr. Hart added an uncommon power of enduring bodily fatigue ; and he proved a most agreeable addition to our party, owing to his imperturbable good humour, and the extent of his knowledge on natural history subjects. Mr. Reginald Laurence, Associate of the Royal College of Science, Dublin, who accepted my invitation to act as Honorary Meteorologist to the Expedition, had also been my personal fi-iend for several years, and from my knowledge of his antecedents and ability, I felt sure he would prove the right man to complete our quorum ; and in this I was not disappointed. Never, I feel sure, were six persons more happily associated in an vmdertaking of this kind. Throughout our whole tour the utmost good feeling prevailed amongst the members ; each took an interest, not only in his own department, but in those of the others, and tried to assist in them as opportunity ofl'ered. My son, having had considerable practice in photography, undertook to bring home photographs of the district through which we were to pass, and through part of which no photo-