Mountain and prairie; a journey from Victoria to Winnipeg, viâ Peace River Pass

Front matter

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Preface

In May, (879, the Canadian Parliament, having decided that additional information should be obtained regarding certain proposed routes for the Canadian Pacific Railway, resolved that a party be sent to examine the country from Port Simpson, on the Pacific, across northern British Columbia and through the Rocky Mountains by way of Peace River and Pine River Passes to the prairies. Copious information had already been procured regarding several other routes connecting the Prairie Region with the Pacific, but the final selection of a Pacific terminus was reserved until this northern route to Port Simpson had been examined and fuller information had been obtained regarding the general character, the resources, and the engineering features of the country.

IV PREFACE.

The party appointed to make this examination consisted of Messrs. H. J. Cambie and II. A. F. Macleod, of the Canadian Pacific Kail way engineering staff, and Dr. G. M. Dawson, of the Geological Survey of Canada, The writer accompanied them. They travelled together from Victoria, V. I., to the mouth of the Skeena thence across the northern part of the Province to Fort McLeod, where the party was divided, — Dr. Dawson proceeding by Pine Eiver Pass, the others by Peace Eiver Pass, to meet at Dun vegan. From Dunvegan the writer came eastward in advance of the others.

The following chapters, consisting chiefly of notes taken by the way, record his impressions of the country traversed from the Pacific to Winnipeg, across the " sea of mountains" and the more inviting sea of prairies. The illustrations are from photographs by Dr. G. M. Dawson, Mr. Selwyn, and Mr. Horetzky — the frontispiece being taken, by permission, from the Geological Survey Eeport for 1878-79. The maps are from the most recent and most authentic in the Departments of the Canadian Pacific Eailway and of the Interior.

PREFACE.

Carlyle says that " some books are suited for immediate use and immediate oblivion." It is the writer's hope that ere the accompanying record of his journey across mountain and prairie passes into oblivion it may be of use in acquainting some of his fellow-countrymen, in a slight degree, with the character and the resources of that half of the Dominion that lies between Winnipeg and the Western Sea.

DANIEL M. GORDON.

The Manse,

Ottawa, May 1880.

Chapter I

vancouver island and the lower fraser.

Page Ottawa to San Francisco.— Victoria.— Indian and Chinese Labourers.— Resources of. British Columbia,— San Juan.— The Lower Fraser.— New Westminster.— Burrard Inlet.— Yale to Boston Bar 1

Chapter II. Victoria To The Skeena

Along the Coast.— The Chain of Channels.— Nanaimo.— Bute Inlet and the Route of the Canadian Pacific Railway.— Port Essington and the Mouth of the Skeena.— Metlahkatlah.— Mission to the Indians.— Port Simpson.— Work Inlet 32

Chapter III. Up The Skeena

Leave Port Essington.— Canoes, Crews, and Stores.— No Trout.— Tracking and Poling.— Indian Watch-tower.— Catching and Curing Salmon.— Carved Posts.— Burial Customs.— The Sweating-booth.— Height of Steam Navigation.— Division of Coast ajid Oiscade Range.— Indian Villages.— Gold-washing.— Medicine Man.— The Forks of Skeena.— Lip-ornaments and Nose-rings.— Mosquitoes 56

VIII CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Forks Of Skeena To Lake Babine

Our Packers.— The Trail.— Up the Susqua.— Coal.— Women Packing and Nursing.— Skilokiss Suspension Bridge.— The Ooatzanli.— The Nataltsul.— Cascade Range compared with Swiss Alps.— Indian Legends.— Taim-Shin.— Scene on the Summit.— Approach Lake Babine.— Engage Crews.— Offended Chief.— Babine Indians.— Neighbourhood of Lake 87

Chapter V. Babine To Fort M'leod

Up Lake Babine.— Fort Babine.— Indian Farming.— Indian Reserves in British Columbia.— Reluctance in telling names.— Lake Stewart.— R. C. Missions.— Fort St. James.— Home-sick Indian.— Mule Train.— Following Trail.— Fort McLeod.— Attractions of the H. B. Service.. . . 113

Chapter VI. Through The Mountains By Boat

Explorers of Peace River.— Division of Party.— Leave Fort McLeod.— The Parsnip.— Fur Traders and Gold Hunters.— Mining.— The Nation River.— Pete Toy and Nigger Dan.— Finlay River and Rapids.— The Unchagah.— Peace River Pass.— Parle-pas Rapid.— Moose Hunting.— Buffalo Tracks.— Terraces.— The Canon Coal.— Navigable Extent of River.— Indian Hunters.— Charlie's Yarns 159

GHAPTER VII.

HUDSON'S HOPE TO DUNVEGAN.

The Prairie Region.— H. B. Company and the North-West Company.— Hudson's Hope.— Moose.— The Climate.— Fertile Flats.— The Plateau. —On the Raft.— Appearance of Country.— Fort St. John.— Massacre at the Old Fort. —Bear Hunting.— Dunvegan.— Highlanders Abroad. Moostoos and his Fight with a Grizzly.— Missions to the Indians 168

CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VIII. Peace River Country

Province of Unchagah.— Outfits of Exploring Parties.— Old Journals at Dunvegan. — Records of Climate. — Beaver Indians. — Cree Music. — Expedition to Battle River.— Character of Country.— Bear Hunting.— Size and Character of Peace River Country. — The Climate. — Danger of Summer Frosts. — Increased Sunlight. — Temperature. — Coal-beds. — Facilities of Communication 196

Chapter IX. Dunvegan To Edmonton

Leave Dunvegan. — Farewell View of Peace River. — Cooking.— Lesser Slave Lake. — Another Stage. — Postal Arrangements.— Indian Hospitality.—Athabasca River and Landing.— Gambling.— Road to Fort Edmonton.— Telegraph Office.— Cree Camp.— Our Indian Policy.— Farm Instructors ,— Treaties.— Sioux.— Edmonton District.— Canadian Pacific Railway 22i

Chapter X. Edmonton To Battleford

Steamers on Saskatchewan.— Prepare to cross the Prairie.— Trails.— Prairie Travel.— Pemmican.— Victoria.— Half-breed Farmers.— Christian Missions in North-West.— Victoria to Fort Pitt.— Royal Mail.— Dog-driving.— Fort Pitt.— The Trail again.— Treeless Prairies.— Tree Culture.— Battleford.— Government of North- West.— Climate.— Character of Country.— Great Plain. — Homestead and Pre-emption Law.— Prospect of Settlement 253