Memories over the water, or, Stray thoughts on a long stroll

Front matter

MEMORIES

OVEE THE WATEE,

STRAY THOUGHTS ON A LONG STROLL.

Chapter II

It were hard to describe the contending emotions that now swelled the heart, as we trod the deck of a noble vessel, bound direct for foreign shores. The moment was rapidly drawing on, when we should bid adieu to the land of our birth, and have the face of nature shut out from our view, until our eyes should open on the olden world. The good ship "Asia" was crowded with passengers, and a great number had come to witness the departure of relatives and friends, while many a thoughtful, anxious face, and many a moistened eye, told how the floodgates of the heart were unlocked, and its deep fountains stirred at the thought that they were parting, and perhaps forever. But for us no eye was dimmed, no loved voice trembled in the fond farewell! for we were alone, without a friend, an acquaintance, or one familiar face, with whom we could claim an adieu.

Precisely at 13 o'clock, m., the last warning-bell is rung, our cables slipped, and as the brave ship moves out, her booming cannon shout a parting salute to the shores of our native land. Again and ^gain, as we glide on, her guns are loaded, and as the active sailor rams home the charge, again the loud report reverberates along the coast, and echoes over the bay. Eapidly we cleave the still, calm water, while om^ officers, in their handsome uniforms of blue, stand upon the gangways, and issue with trumpet-voice their many orders, to which is readily returned the hearty ''aye, aye, sir !" Still swiftly glides onward our mammoth ship, passing by Governor's island, the Battery, the Fort, Staten Island, and other objects of interest, and erelong we are out upon the mighty deep, with the dim shores of Long Island trailing on our left, and the coast we had so lately quitted growing more and more indistinct. The shades of night came creeping on, the day-king had sought his western couch, and as the last, faint outline of our native shores faded slowly away through the increasing gloom, we gave over our lingering gaze, and turning to our cabin sighed—

*' My native land, good night !"

On the following morning we rose refreshed with sleep, and though the vessel was rocking slightly, we experienced no difficulty in making our simple toilet, nor felt as yet that wretched, deathly sensation, usually denominated, sea-sickness. But we were not destined to escape entirely the ills that the fresh mariner is heir to; so just conceive a woe-begone youth, most dejectedly seated on a four-legged stool, with his forlorn phiz buried in his hands, and whew ! heaving like old Vesuvius, while a few old salts fill up the background, making merry over our misfortunes, and you have our daguerreotype. At any other time we might have felt half-way disposed to rise from our seat, and throw our four-legged friend at the heads of the graceless jesters, but now the awfully collapsed state of the internal system so completely mastered every effort of the will, that verily had one come up and pulled our nose, we could hardly have recognized it as an insult.

But our spell was of brief duration, and erelong we had learned to tread the rolling deck with buoyant step and — steady stomach. — So now we began to look about us to learn what manner of men we were to be associated with during the voyage. "We discovered, from the jargon of many tongues and varied language in the painting-decked saloon, that each and every nation, of any consequence, claimed a representative among our passengers — the indefatigable American, the phlegmatic German, the morose Englishman, the social Frenchman, the somber Spaniard, the volatile Irishman, with a scattering of Cuban, Creole, and African.

But what shall we say of our voyage, what others have not said, and what mention shall we make of the good ship " Asia " — English though she be, and built of British Oak ? Every incident of a sea-voyage has been made familiar, and a repetition would only pall upon the ear. Enough to say, then, that the night succeeded to the day, and we successively saw sunrise, sunset, and moonlight on the ocean. Sweeping the broad horizon of water round, ^ye hav^ watched some distant ship, when its cloud-like sails were first dimly traced in faint relief upon the sky, but growing more and more distinct, until it loomed boldly out over the heaving waters, and was again gradually lost, as our lordly vessel, like some monster of the deep, held its onward course. — ^When floundering on through dense and impenetrable fogs, we have heard the faithful bell send forth its warning voice upon the restless waves, and when suddenly meeting with some other ship by night, we have seen the brilliant sky-rocket shooting from our deck, throwing a fitful glare upon the waste of waters, and briefly revealing the outlines of the other vessel, wafted on like some silent specter of the sea. We have held converse with the " watch " by night, and have lent a willing ear to the long yarns of the veteran son of Neptune. We have heard the hoarse " alPs well " rise, in the stillness of night, from the "bow- watch," while the cry was taken up and repeated at the larboard, the starboard, and the wheel, sending assurance of safety to the heart of the anxious traveler. Gazing down by night upon the phosphoric fire that glimmered round our rushing ship, and looking back upon the long train of snow-white foam that followed in her wake, intuitively we have called her the comet of the waters. In fine we have enjoyed all the beauties of a sea-voyage, while youth lent a golden tinge to every incident, and ere that chilling of the heart, by rough contact with the world, had blunted the appetite for romance.

When within a few days' sail of our destination, an incident occurred, which carried an electric excitement throughout our ship. It was about the hour of ten at night, and the passengers were all gathered in the main saloon, some reading, some conversing, and some engaged with cards and dice. Suddenly, we were startled to our very feet, by the loud cry of " Hard, hard a-port," borne with thrilling accent and trumpet-tongue upon our ears, while the hurried trampling of feet over-head, announced that some danger was impending. An immediate rush was made from the cabin to the deck, which, as we reached, we descried just before us the clouded image of a schooner. For a few moments the excitement was intense, and —

" The boldest held his breath For a time."

The deck was thronged, yet no one spoke. — All eyes were directed toward the devoted schooner, and all hearts hushed, as she floated on within a few feet of our prow. In a moment the crash would come or the danger pass. The moment rolled by, and the schooner came gliding hard upon our larboard, so close, indeed, that you might have tossed a biscuit on her deck. Again we drew our breath, and the heart resumed its pulsation, as the danger passed. But a narrow escape did the schooner run ! for rushing with immense impetus through the thick fog, we had suddenly come upon her, and only by promptly checking steam, and bearing hard to the right, we had avoided a collision. Had our mammoth ship, going at the rate of twelve knots an hour, come in contact with the ill-starred schooner, her doom had been sealed. She would have gone down beneath our rushing prow, and all her crew had sunk — "unknelled, uncofBned, and unknown," to the blue depths below. We again descended to our saloon, but so excited were the minds of the passengers, that at the least unusual noise, you might see their heads pop up as if scenting some new danger, and ready at any moment to take alarm ; for which, however, there was thenceforward no occasion.

On the morning of the 10th we heard the grateful ciy of '' Land ho !" We were standing on deck, and though an Irish sailor was pointing out the Cape, we could discover nothing. — But the son of Erin was not mistaken. His practiced eye had caught the distant peaks of his native coast, when we could discover nothing but the blue sky above and the blue wave beneath us. Soon the bold, bleak shores of the Emerald Isle — land of the Shillelah and Shamrock — loomed distinctly out. We fired a salute abreast of Holyhead, that our approach might be announced, by telegraph, at Liverpool and London, and thence moving on, we passed by '' old Kilsale Point," where the ill-fated Albion went down, and by "Derrynane Abbey " — the castle of the famous agitator, Daniel O'Connell, which, from the Channel, presented only a flat, square appearance, without any architectural pretensions. Stood on deck to have a view of Liverpool as we came in. The scene was at once lovely and magnificent. The sea was as calm and placid as Beauty's sleep, while the broad- flowing Mersey swept gently down, dividing the two cities of Liverpool and Birkenhead — the former ennobled by its splendid docks, which are crowded with the vessels of every nation whose flag dances in the breath of ocean — the latter beautified and adorned with quiet villas. At last, with anchor cast, and custom-house examination over, we took one of the numerous little tugs, that were racing about in every direction, and soon our foot had pressed a foreign soil. We stood in ''merrie old England " — the land of our forefathers — and, for the first time, under " petticoat government." 3

Chapter III

Liverpool is a great place ! Such at least was our conclusion after several days' rambling among its docks, cabs, tugs, beggars and police. The city abounds in magnificent structures — splendid piles of architecture — the most noted of which are the Custom- House, the Exchange, St. George's Hall, and the Sailor's Home, Several fine monuments also lend an additional attraction to this great commercial emporium — one erected to the memory of William Huskisson, another to Lord Nelson, and one to George the Third. The amount of shipping at this port is, to one who will look into its numerous and extensive docks, ail-but incredible.

Just before we landed, a friend who had visited England before, said to us — " Now if you wish to see a picture of English life, don't go to one of those fashionable hotels, to which all Americans resort, but come with me, and I will show you ' mine host of the inn,' a true specimen of English life and character." Nothing loth to adopt his suggestion, we proceeded forthwith to Dale street, and made ourselves comfortable at the sign of the '' Saracen's Head." Our hale and hearty landlord realized the very idea we had formed of an English innkeeper. He usually sat at the head of his table, his ''fair, round belly with fat capon lined," and his broad visage beaming with good humor, as he carved with evident pride and satisfaction the huge piece of roast-beef that universally graced the head of his board. An air of cleanliness and comfort pervaded his entire house, which at once gave it a pleasant and home-like appearance.

After nightfall, we determined on a solitary ramble through the city, feeling no anxiety whatever, either as to losing our way, or meeting with any molestation, so long as an occasional policeman, in his close, blue uniform, and short, stout baton greeted our sight, for we were sure of his direction when at a loss, and of his assistance when in a difficulty. So, starting out down Dale street, we thence turned to the left, and were soon sauntering under the deep and somber shadows of the old Custom-House — a huge, venerable building, whose imposing appearance had first attracted our attention on our way from the ship to the hotel. We were lazily loitering along its dingy, time-stained walls, when, in looking about us, we discovered that our movements were watched by no other than a "polls" himself, who seemed to regard us as a suspicious character, and to that efiect kept pace with our wanderings. Observing this, we stopped under the shadow of one of the huge columns that adorn each extremity of the building, when he strolled carelessly up and accosted us with a civil — '' Good evening, sir !" Well, thought we, would it not be a pretty story to reach home, that on the first night of our arrival in Europe we were nabbed by a policeman. But, conscious of our innocent purposes, we returned the salutation, and entered into conversation with our friend of the buttons. He was a ready, intelligent fellow, and finding that we were an American, fresh from the New World, he seemed to throw ofi* all suspicion and reserve, and conversed freely with us about our country, and about the World's Fair, which was then being held in London. It struck us as a peculiar fact, that this man, though within eight hours' ride of the Crystal Palace, had never visited his country's capital ; that he had trodden for years his constant round, without once having an opportunity of stirring from his post, and without one dream of ever leaving, even for a three days' absence, to view the wonders of the World's Fair. It was growing on toward ''the small hours of night," when we bade our chance acquaintance adieu, and repaired to our hotel, when our flickering fancies soon floated away into the land of dreams.

After spending several days in the city, we rose one morning with the determination to set out that day for London, and, in accordance with the resolve, we shook hands with our kind old landlord, and started off* for " Edge Hill Station ;" arrived at the depot of the London and North- Western Eailroad, and found the cars just on the eve of departure. One of the porters seized our luggage, and broke off*, crying — '' Look sharp," while we followed at a brisk gallop close on his heels, aflording considerable amusement to the rest of the passengers, who, snugly ensconsed in their seats, could afford to laugh. Reached the hindmost car just as the train was on the move, when the obliging porter of the London and North-Western Railroad pitched our baggage in, and we tumbled in after it. Daylight fades behind us, and darkness visible presses upon our eyelids, as we rattle on through "Edge Hill Tunnel," with Liverpool city overhead. Suddenly we again dash out into the light of heaven, and speed merrily onward over the proud soil of England. The landscape, owing to its high state of cultivation, w^as the loveliest and richest we had ever seen. The surface of the country was beautifully diversified by countless village churches, generally built in the pure Gothic style ; with hawthorn hedges, and model cottages, and grim iron factories, with dark volumes of smoke rolling from their sky -piercing chimnies.

Eleven miles from London, we passed by the celebrated school of Harrow, where Lord Byron's "young idea was first taught to shoot." A rush of associations came sweeping over our mind, as we looked on that lovely hill-side. The day had been dark throughout, and heavy clouds had curtained in the sky. But lo ! as we passed this spot, sacred in the early memories of many of England's gifted sons, the day -king smiled for an instant through the craggy clouds, shedding a flood of glorious sunlight on the scene, and then all was dark and o^loom ao^ain. We thought the incident typical of the life of the immortal bard.

During our transit from Liverpool to London, some Englishman in our car, finding that there were Americans aboard, broached the subject of slavery. Now it so happened that there was in our company a young Virginian, who in his heart believed that slavery was not only no stigma on his country's escutcheon, but was indeed a divine institution, ordained by Heaven itself, as a means of reclaiming the benighted African from the lowest depths of ignorance and barbarism to the light of knowledge and Christianity. So, as the unwary Englishman condemned, in no measured terms, the slaveholding portion of our country, he found himself suddenly picked up by the warm-blooded Southerner, and quite a sharp controversy ensued. The debate grew warmer still, yet neither would be convinced, until the Virginian, wheeling off, remarked, in his wrath to his opponent, that he hadn't the brains to comprehend, nor the candor to confess the truth, and he therefore declined all further discussion with him. The disconcerted Englishman complied with this plain hint, and the subject was dropped.

But away we went racing on, and reached London in the midst of a severe hailstorm, and that too in the month of August. It soon passed away, however, and we proceeded to the ^'Euston Hotel," situated hard by the railroad depot, and we were safely landed in London city.

From our brief experience, we judged the English rail to be superior to the American. The speed, ly express^ is greater, but the cars, excepting the first class, are very inferior, both in point of comfort and appearance. But strength and utility are legibly impressed on everything English. The English ladies we found certainly neither so pretty nor so elegant as our own — in point of classic beauty and delicate grace no comparison can be made. The English lady is, generally speaking, well-formed, hearty, robust. But we are not disposed to admire woman, when she seems so perfectly capable of self-protection ; perhaps we may admire^ but to love is out of the question. We seem to feel that she can battle her own way through life, and that idea at once breaks down one of the strongest inducements for man to love. But we would not that the Duchess of Sutherland, nor any other of Albion's fair dames, should consider us censorious, or disposed to meddle with matters which concern us not; for, indeed, we found much wherewi-th to be pleased in ''our cousins over the water.'' We have found their women well-favored, but not pretty; intelligent, but not captivating — their men reserved, but not uncourteous ; severe, but not ungenerous.

Chapter IV

Having located ourself in comfortable quarters at No. 44, St. James' Place, we began to open our eyes on the countless objects of interest to be found in the great city of London. Our situation was admirably adapted both for the instruction and amusement of the stranger, for within the reach of a pleasant walk were Hyde and St. James' Park, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham and St. James' Palace, the new House of Lords, and many other buildings, whose names are " as household words" to every reader of English history. With a chosen companion — young Taylor, of Tipton, Tennessee — we began a systematic survey of the wealth of wonders about us. Our first desire was, of course, to seek the Crystal Palace, and so we were soon on our way, through the vast wilderness of houses, to the grand international exhibition. A short ride brought us to Hyde Park, and paying our admission fee of one shilling at the door of the glittering building, we stood beneath the roof of that fairy palace, amid the richest products of earth, and among the rarest inventions of the human mind. Never can we forget, and yet never can we describe the magnificent scene that then broke wilderingly upon our vision. (40)

Memokies over the Water. 41

We had expected to encounter sights of gorgeous splendor and magic beauty, but never did we conceive of such a display as then met our wondering gaze. Articles the richest, the rarest, the most beautiful, the most curious, the most magnificent ! all under the transparent roof of a most exquisite and fairy structure — producing such an overpowering effect that the mind, when rushing forth to grasp them in its fold, would turn and seek again its silent recesses, exhausted by the struggle. A few statistical facts may serve to convey some slight idea of the vast dimensions of the palace and its myriad wonders. The building, according to estimation, covered upward of twenty acres of ground. Its length was eighteen hundred and fifty-one feet — a foot to represent each year from the commencement of the christian era down to the time of its erection. The entire length of the tables, all combined, was estimated at eight miles — quite a pedestrian journey to one, who would itmoisely undertake to see, at one visit, their complement of contents.

We first made a circuit round the entire building on the ground-floor, and then ascending to the galleries above rapidly scanned their arrangement, in order to get, at first, a general view of the whole, and so understand the plan of the building, that in our succeeding visits we might pursue a systematic course of inspection. The contributions from the various nations represented were ranged in their respective apartments, with the name of the country from which they came printed on a red banner above. One end of the building was allotted to the American representations, while pretty much the whole space of the opposite extremity was appropriated to, and filled with, the tributes of Great Britain; the intermediate ground being methodically divided off and distributed to the various other nations. We will not detail the minutiae of their contributions, for that were ail-but as endless an effort as the task of Sisyphus. Enough to say that during our peregrination through that wondrous structure we looked on "the Monnt of Light" and other costly gems ; on beautiful and sparkling fountains ; on glittering and gorgeous furniture; on luxurious and splendid coaches ; on rich and dazzling chandeliers ; on hnere and mamificent mirrors ; on fountains of colomewater ; on antique curiosities ; on ancient mosaics ; on curiously- wrought representations of anatomy; on exquisite statuary and most finished sculpture ; on soft and blushing paintings ; on softest fabrics of silk and cotton ; on rarest machinery ; on implements of peace and war ; on purple and gold ; on beauty and utility, and in fine on the best specimens of all imaginable invention. One glance at that goodly array from under the folds of the American flag, down to where the banner of St. George drooped above the wealth of the English nation, were well worth a flight across the deep waters. The scene was one of the most animated, gorgeous and imposing that the imagination can picture, or the fancy conceive ; rendered lovely, too, by the thought that we here behold a peaceful union of all nations, who had '' beat their swords into plowshares, and their spears into pruning-hooks," all mingling in social concord, with no strife or contention among them, save to excel in the great and the good. All was order, good- will and harmony. 'Twas a scene on which poet, philosopher and philanthropist might dwell with delight. The only regretful feeling which came creeping over our heart was, that our own glorious land, though many the honors awarded her, was so inadequately and so unfairly represented.

Toward the close of the day, according to previous agreement, we met friend Taylor in the transept of the building, by the beautiful central fountain, whose sparkling waters sent a delightfully cool and refreshing influence through the densely-crowded palace. Near by were the exquisitely beautiful portraits of his royal highness Prince Albert and her majesty the Queen. While attentively considering the latter we observed to our friend, that if report had not much slandered the royal lady, the portrait before us was most highly flattering, for that rumor had said that dame nature had not been very prodigal in her gifts to Queen Yic.

The words were scarcely out when a burly Briton close by retorted, that we were laboring under a great mistake, and assured us that the portrait was not flattering but only a correct likeness. Now, though we knew that this was only a gratuitous ebullition of loyal feeling, yet from the innate gallantry of our own nature we could not dispute the fact, but silently

44 Memokies oyer the Watee.

acknowledged the enlightenment. Indeed, before we had left the shores of England, we concluded that the English people, to this good day, were as loyal, from lord to lackey, as in the days of old, when mail-clad forms w^ere couched, with lance in rest, if but one breath of calumny should assail the heaven-anointed monarch. The English are still devoted to their Queen, not so much by personal love and attachment, but as the embodiment of a principle to which they are wedded.

About 4 o'clock, p. m., we left the Crystal Palace, and strolled out upon the green-sward of Hyde Park, along the bank of the Serpentine, a small winding lake, but more like a river, that meanders through this handsome space of field and forest. Pedestrians with their sagacious dogs, male and female equestrians on their handsome horses, and elegant equipages, containing the fashionable and noble, were to be seen in all directions. History and fiction have alike rendered Hyde Park a subject of interest to everybody, but especially to the young and imaginative mind. As we roved over the soft turf, and rambled through its quiet retreats, we thought how many a tale of love had been told beneath those wide-spreaking oaks — • how many a heart had thrilled wdth sweetest joy, and alas I how many, too, had been deceived. How many an unknown story of love, of treachery and broken hearts, had those ancient trees been the silent witness — an unrecorded drama in the history of each suffering spirit. Earth was pillowed upon the bosom of night — toil had rocked her softly to rest — silence hung like a heavy mantle over her slumbers, while the starry firmament above, flung out like some broad banner from the battlements of heaven, curtained in her couch. Naught else heard or spoke, save the wind, as it wooed the dim old woods, and the rustling leaves as they whispered the tale about.

But away with musing — for just now a " still, small voice " was whispering that we had passed the day — without our dinner. Being thus admonished, we were off in a trice for this indispensable item of life, and while cozily seated at our table, our reflections were something in this wise — " Well, London is, upon the whole, quite a pleasant place — ^provided your shillings are abundant, but if you have not a superfluity of cash, why then you have no business in this vast metropolis. Money is here a friend on whom you may safely rely, while you have him in possession, but one who ^will leave and forsake you ' at every turn."

Just here we were about to give an order, but involuntarily hesitated, when, on looking up, we discovered, instead of Sir Ebony, a gentleman "in cloth," with w^hite vest and white cravat, meekly awaiting our commands. — But our democratic scruples soon vanished before the returning thought that we were still master so long as the potent shilling rested in our purse, and so suffered the elegant waiter to obey our behest, without discountenance, and in his own subservient wav=

Having dined, our next query v;as ''in what manner should we spend the evening V Taylor was fatigued, and positively swore he would not stir forth that night ; so, per necessity, we must go it alone. Sallying out under the blazing glare of the gas-light, we strolled up the Strand, and turned in at the Lyceum, where "Only a Clod," ''Court Beauties," and ''King Charming " were performed. We were much pleased Avitli the evening's entertainment— tlie scenic effect in the last play being superior to anything of the kind we had yet witnessed. To add to the attractions of the bill, twenty-four young girls, charmingly dressed in light floating gauze, appeared in the ballet, with eight banners in their hands, representing eight several nations, under which they successively danced the national dance of each country represented. Among the flags shone conspicuous " the stars and stripes." " Yankee Doodle " was the air, and something which we supposed the "pigeonwing" was the dance attributed to America.

How it causes the heart of the stranger to swell with untold emotions, to hear the national air of his own dear land, while wandering over foreign shores, especially, too, wdth the well-loved banner of his country before his eyes. One thus situated can never have those feelings erased from his memory, though the snows of many winters may w^hiten his brow, and the tide of many years strive to pour forgetfulness over the scenes of his early youth. And w^e w^ould ask no stronger current of cherished memories to come sweeping over the bending heart, than to hear, as we have heard, the sweet notes of some favorite song, oft heard from beauty's lips at home, suddenly to greet the ear, where many a weary mile, and many a restless billow, intervene between the pilgrim and the home of his fathers. It chains the very spirit into stillest mood, and wakes the "key-note of the saddest dirge that fancy ever played to melancholy."

Chapter V

A STEOLL through St. James' Park serves as an excellent antidote to the " noise and confusion of the Strand. Buckingham Palace, the Queen's city residence, fronts down the Park, and is quite a royal building. Standing in front of the Palace, and looking down the Park, you see the lofty towers of Westminster peeping over the tree-tops to the left, while just to the right of the Abbey, rises the unfinished tower of the new House of Lords. St. James' Palace, where the Queen holds her Court, lies over to the right, fronting up St. James-street, at the foot of Pall Mall, and presents a queer old face to your view, with its time-stained walls and peaked towers. Just outside the high iron fence, that fronts Buckingham Place, promenade the stiff English sentinels, in their blood-red coats, snow-white pants, and high conical fur hats. Lolling about over the soft sward, may be seen the city -bred Londoners, rolling over the green grass, as if the very contact did their souls good. Swans and ducks paddle unmolested about in the Park lake, and seem well content with their pension .