A historical and statistical account of New-Brunswick, B.N.A. : with advice to emigrants

Chapter I

The Spirit of Emigration^ — What the Colony must depend upon for its prosperity— Latitude and Longitude of the Province— Disease— the Climate— its Water— Conveyance— the Extent and Situation of the Great Coal Field the Sea Coast — the City of St John— by ^IVhom. and When it was first Inhabited —its Rise, Progress, Population, Buildings, Churches, Banks, Inhabited Houses,

Tides, and of the several Fires that have taken Place in the City— Portland— its Business— Places of Worship- Inhabited Houses— Families and Persons— Carlton, its Bridge, Locality, Trade, Churches, Inhabited Houses, Families, and Acres of Cleared Land— Lancaster, its Mills, Inhabitants, Acres of Cleared Ground, &c 13

Chapter II

St George’s, its Falls, Mills— Mascreen, Le Tang, Le Tete, Settlements, Churches, Inhabited Houses, Families, Persons, and Acres of Cleared Land— Pennfield, Inhabited Houses, Families, and Acres of Cleared Land— Winter Campaigns of the Lumber Men, &c — St Patricks, its Situation, Inhabited II ouses, Families, and Acres of Cleared Land— St Andrew’s, its Locality, Soil, Churches, Inhabited Houses, Families, Acres of Cleared Land— St David’s,

St James’, St Stephen’s with their Situation, Inhabitants,' Families, Acres of Cleared Land, &c.— the Islands in the Passamaquoddy Bay, their Length, Breadth, Fisheries,

Timber, Soil, Inhabitants, Acres of Cleared Land, &c. 42

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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III. Page

Fredericton, its Situation, Size, Progress, Trade, Buildings, its Advantages, Inhabited houses, Families, Persons, Acres of Cleared Land, Horses, Neat Cattle, Sheep, Swine, distance from St John’s, St Andrew’s, Chatham, Quebec, and Halifax. — Chatham, Douglas, Bathurst, Dalhousie, Richibucto, Shediac, Petitcodiac, Hopewell, Sackville, Dorchester, Sussex-Vale, Dutch-Valley, Londonderry, Ten-Mill Creek, Black-River, Hampton, Kingston, Sheffield, Gagetown, W^ oodstock, Keswick, &c. —Prince William, Jackstown, Wakefield, with an account of their Soil, Public Buildings, Churches, Mills, Families, Acres of Cleared Land, Ac

Remarks on the Forests, their Growth— Different kinds of Wood growing in the Province— Maple Sugar, and the way of obtaining it— the Hackmatic, its quality and purp 0ses _the Soil— Intervale— effects of Fire on, the Forests, Ac.— Manure— time of Planting— Manner of Reaping Objects of Natural History— the Moose, its size,

nature, and quality — the Caribou, its size, nature, Ac.— the Bear, its colour, size, nature, &c. — the Otter, Fox, Mink, Fisher, Woodcliuch, Racoon, and Porcupine— the Beaver, the manner in which they build their houses, and the means they make use of to escape from their enemies — the Musk-Rat, and the Squirrel. Fish, Whale and Shark species, bony and castilagenous, found in the waters of New-Brunswick,

The New-Brunswick Coal Field — Introductory Remarks — its Division, Extent, Deposits, Quality, Ac.— The Salmon River, Ac. — Coal Mines, their Deposits, Quality, Ac. — Minerals of the Province — Iron, its uses — Copper Ore — Lead Galena— Magnesia — Limestone — Gypsum— Rock Salt — Granite — J asper— Calcedony — Amethyst — Agate — Ileulandite— Stilblite— Apophylite— Slates, &c. ........ 157

Chapter V. Contents

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CHAPTER VI. Page

Account of the Rivers, Islands, Bay of Fundy, &c.— Falls at St John's, Lakes, Streams, &c. — American Indians— the Grand Falls — the White Rapids — Grand River, &c. Alluvium along the Banks of the St John — Action of the Sea on the Coast of New-Brunswick — the Relative Extent, Elevation, and Depth of the Great North American Lakes, 193

Chapter VII

The subject of Emigration — Directions to Emigrants in preparing for Embarkation — Medicines Required for the Voyage — Instructions on Landing — How to obtain, select, and cultivate Land — Directions how to Build a House, Barn, &c. — Public Functionaries — Insurance and J oint-Stock Companies — Banks — Societies — Counties — Parishes — Roads Information to Travellers — State of the Weather in each month in the Province — Remarks on the North-East Boundary Question — the Extent of the

British Territory in British North America 232

Poetry, 274

Appendix, 281

Preface

Were it not that a Preface is considered by many persons an indispensable accompaniment to a work, the Author would prefer laying it before the world without one ; but to omit complying with general custom, might seem to indicate indifference to public opinion.

The history of every country in Europe commences in the region of fable. At what period they were severally discovered, and by whom settled, is equally uncertain, and the accounts which are given of the early ages of all, are, at best, but plausible conjectures. The situation of America is, in this respect, just the reverse ; the discovery of this immense Continent, is an event of modern occurrence, and -was accompanied by the infant art of printing, which, by multiplying the copies, preserved the journals of those who explored and settled the New World.

But if the materials of American history are unlike those of Europe, the events are more

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PREFACE.

different. — the progress of man from a state of nature towards civilization, is always slow, and generally similar. But the operation of an enlightened people upon uncultivated nature, which was first displayed in the new settlement of America, affords a most interesting subject of contemplation. The portion of American history, filled by New-Brunswick, though small, is not altogether unimportant, and as one of the minor links in the great chain of events, cannot, with propriety, be omitted.

The favourable ^prospects which have been presented to our American dependencies, have been materially improved by the final settlement of the “ Boundary Question / 5 with the United States. The Americans have for some time ardently desired to possess the right to the navigation of the St John, and to add the fine fertile Province of New-Brunswiek to their possessions, being fully aware of the value of that river, as a means of internal communication, and foreseeing that the city of St John, which is situated at its mouth, is likely, from the advantages of its position, to rival, at some distant period, the city of New York in commercial importance.

T he St J olin is one of those noble streams by which America is intersected, and by which

PREFACE.

IX that continent is rendered so admirably adapted for the abode of an enterprising and trading people. By the articles of the treaty, not only is the navigation of the St John and its tributaries thrown open to the Americans, but the timber and agricultural produce grown upon their banks, although within the American Boundary, are admitted into the colonies free of duty, and, consequently, into the Mother Country, on the same terms as those of colonial growth.

These privileges cannot fail to prove a great commercial boon to the colony of New-Brunswick, and to work an important change in the trade of the more inland districts of the country; for unless human nature, and the American character in particular, suffer an extraordinary change, they will be made subservient to the transmission not only of the productions of all the neighbouring States into the colonies, and from thence to the home market, but also of supplying these districts with British goods, free of those high protecting duties, by means of which, the Americans are now endeavouring to foster their home manufactures ; because, undoubtedly, no fiscal arrangements will suffice to guard the two countries against illicit trading under the present treaty. The St John being a

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necessarily the channel of this traffic, a very cursory review of the commercial history of the world will be sufficient to shew the powerful influence such a transit trade is calculated to have in spreading wealth over the country through which it flows. And this review will be valuable, if it shall have the effect of directing the attention of our emigrant capitalists to the prospects and capabilities of our North American provinces, and of inducing them to join, and to avail themselves of the current of emigration of the labouring classes, which is annually flowing into New-Brunswick, and which, owing to the want of capital in the colony, is at the present turned to so little account.

In directing the attention of the capitalist emigrant to the capabilities of New-Brunswick, it is important that we should now turn our attention to those points which involve the happiness and comfort of individuals, as these are matters of the deepest moment to those of the middle ranks who are induced, by the hope of gain, or the force of circumstances, to seek a home in the Colonies.

This Province lies parallel with some of the finest countries of Europe; it enjoys a salubrious climate, to which the length of the win-

PREFACE.

XI ter is the only alloy — although this is not admitted to be a draw-back by those who have enjoyed the pure air, and brilliant sun-shine of an American winter. But even with respect to the severity of the winter, the clearings in the backwoods are making a rapid improvement in the seasons ; and it may be reasonably supposed therefore, that as the country becomes settled, and as agricultural improvement advances, the climate will be ameliorated, and the winter rendered much milder, and of shorter duration. The external aspect of a country has no inconsiderable influence in promoting the happiness of its inhabitants, particularly of those of the better classes. In this respect, the colony of which an accurate account will be given in this W ork, possesses eminent advantages.

The scenery on the river St John, is not to be surpassed in beauty by any thing to be found in North America, and although the banks of this noble stream are already settled, and under partial cultivation for near a hundred miles above its mouth, allotments are still to be purchased in these districts on moderate terms, while there remains unallotted, immense tracks of fine country, lying along the upper course of the parent stream, and the banks of its nume-

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rous tributaries. These districts embrace the magnificent scenery of the Grand Falls*

The emigrant to New-Brunswick is not exposed to those privations or dangers, as those who emigrate to New Zealand or Australia. A few days sail brings him to the colony, and his further progress is facilitated by water carriage, through the numerous rivers that intersect the country. Having arrived at his destination, the agricultural capitalist will find himself safe both in person and property ; and from the crowds of individuals from Ireland, he will possess the means of carrying on his farming operations without interruption, and at a moderate expense. This is an advantage of the greatest importance even in the old countries of Europe ; but its value is infinitely greater in new colonies, where the want of labour has proved the great obstacle to agricultural improvement, and consequently, to colonial prosperity.

Whilst it is very desirable that the capabilities of our fine possessions, in North America, should be brought under the notice of the public, it is imperative, at the same time, to guard against v the grievous error which has been committed by those who, over eager to promote the prosperity of particular colonies, have been

PREFACE.

Xlll the means of hurrying thousands of their fellow-countrymen into hopeless exile. Let no one suppose that there is at the present day a “ royal road to wealth and independence on the contrary, the emigrant must be prepared to exert great industry and self-denial, and all that can be justly promised is, that the practice of those virtues w T ill more likely be rewarded with success in the colonies, than at home, for not only is the competition between man and man less severe, but the scarcity of capital renders a sum of money which would be wholly inadequate to pave the way to success in the Parent country, sufficient to lay the foundation of independence, and even of wealth in America.

Of the many extraordinary changes which science has brought about in modern times, none has more conduced to the social happiness of mankind, than the more rapid communication between distant places. In this respect, steam-navigation has been of infinite service to our North American posssessions ; it has brought them nearer to Britain than Edinburgh was to London in the days of our ancestors. This is a circumstance of vital importance in connexion with emigration to New- Brunswick — for not only does the rapidity of intercourse promote commercial enterprise, but xiv

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it enables the emigrant to fall back upon his resources at home, either for advice or assistance on the occurrence of any sudden emergency.

Nothing, perhaps, is more distressing to those who are leaving their native land, in search of a home in a foreign country, than the thought that they are about to sacrifice all those refinements of society which render life desirable. The length of time which New-Brunswick has been a settled country, (1783) the agricultural pursuits of the people, and the more advanced stage of social improvement to which society has attained, not only preclude any such severe sacrifice, but render the colony peculiarly eligible for the best class of emigrants. Many of the pleasures of civilized life will be found to be within the reach of those possessed even of moderate resources, and not incompatible with the active pursuits by which independence and wealth are to be acquired.

If this attempt to promote emigration, and to point out the natural and political advantages enjoyed by New-Brunswick, shall have the effect of directing the attention of government and capitalists to the capabilities of this fine Province, a movement may be given to colonization on sound principles, which is to be hoped will tend to arrest the retrograde course our

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PREFACE.

XY commerce has been making of late years, and of putting a stop to the rapid depreciation of property which is bringing ruin upon our most important national interests, and filling our streets with idle, starving, and disaffected people.

The Author of this Work being conscious of having been influenced by the best motives, when determining on publication, and being equally sensible how defective his book must appear to those whose reading has been restricted to works of superior excellence, and whose taste has been formed by the finest models, he conceives that apology is, in the first place, unnecessary, and would, no doubt, be in the second , unavailing.

The very flattering reception which the two former editions have experienced, from two thousand of the nobility, clergy, professors, merchants, &c. of Scotland, have stimulated the Author to exert himself in bringing forward the present edition. For the purpose of rendering it worthy of public approbation, the greater part of the original matter, in the two former editions have been revised, and several new articles introduced, which he trusts will be found highly interesting to the community at large.

To the numerous friends who have honoured

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PREFACE.

the Author with their patronage, he desires to return his sincere thanks ; at the same time, he begs leave to observe, that in consequence of his being much from home while the Work passed through the press, requests that each Subscriber will kindly overlook any errors, as, no doubt, several orthographical errors have crept in and escaped detection — the result of haste, rather than inattention or design — for this, and other imperfections which may be found iq. the W ork.

In conclusion, the Author cannot but indulge the hope, that its contents will be disseminated throughout Her Britannic Majesty’s dominions; and, should the present unpretending undertaking be deemed worthy of public patronage, as the two former editions, he will be fully satisfied and rewarded for his labours.

Hucusque adjuvavit Deus !

W. C. Atkinson.

Edinburgh, July 1844.

AN ACCOUNT

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NEW- BRUNSWICK, B.N.A.

WITH DIRECTIONS TO EMIGRANTS.

CHAPTER I. The Spirit of Emigration— What the Colony must depend upon

for its prosperity — Latitude and Longitude of the Province

Disease — the Climate — its Water — Conveyance the Extent

and c ion of the Great Coal Field — the Sea Coast — the City o John — by Whom and When it was first Inhabited

— its Rise, Progress, Population, Buildings, Churches, Banks, Inhabited Houses, Tides, and of the several Fires that have taken Place in the City — Portland — its Business — Places of Worship — Inhabited Houses— Families and Persons — Carlton, its Bridge, Locality, Trade, Churches, Inhabited Houses, Families, and Acres of Cleared Land — Lancaster, its Mills, Inhabitants, Acres of Cleared Ground, &c.

At a period when the Queen’s government, in pursuance of a wise and liberal policy, are using every means to encourage emigration to Her Britannic Majesty’s possessions abroad, and

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TZr thus add to the strength and security of the more distant portions of the British Empire, — it becomes the duty of every well-wisher of his country, and friend of his species, to lay before the public whatever information he may possess in relation to the subject ; and however limited may be his means, to cast his mite into the general treasury of knowledge, and, if possible, aid in directing attention to those portions of these colonies which a settler can occupy with the greatest comfort, and improve to the most advantage.

It seems never to have been intended that man should remain stationery in the place of his nativity. He is not like a tree that cannot be transplanted, his frame having been so constituted, that he can bear the heat of the tropics, or the cold of the arctic regions ; and although he is naturally inclined to adopt the gossip’s prayer for

iC One long summer’s day of indolence and mirth.**

Yet, when his hopes and fears have been properly excited, he is an active and energetic being, and we find him in all ages and countries moving from place to place, and from country to country, impelled by necessity, or induced by the

ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK.

sense of utility, to make the wide world his home, and the men of all nations his brethren.

The object of emigration is threefold : — To relieve the Parent State of its superabundant population ; to increase more rapidly the number of inhabitants in the colonies, and thus to promote their advancement in wealth and importance ; and, thirdly , to provide the means of subsistence for those who are anxious to leave the scenes of their earlier years, to secure elsewhere “ a local habitation,” and a more comfortable and happy home. With reference to the first of these objects : So far as the Parent- State is concerned, it matters little what fate awaits the venturous emigrant, so long as the land of his nativity is relieved from the incumbrance of his presence ; still, the philanthropist everywhere must feel an interest in the destiny that awaits him ; and a paternal government will watch over his course, and endeavour to direct his uncertain steps to the haven of happiness and repose.

The colony, however, whose prosperous condition must chiefly depend upon the possession of an intelligent agricultural population, is deeply interested in securing some portion of that industrial wealth, which is continually extending itself towards the American Continent ; and it

J therefore becomes an object of importance, that information should be widely disseminated as to the capability of each of those possessions, to contribute to the promotion of the general good ; and to the emigrant himself, it is of vital consequence that he should become acquainted with that colonial possession which, other advantages being equal, is nearest in proximity to the British Isles.

Almost all the moral and industrious emigrants to this Province, whatever have been theii occupations, have succeeded in securing to themselves a competency, and many have obtained wealth. The lower class of labourers, when they have devoted themselves to steady habits and industry, have been successful ; (of this I have been an eye-witness, when I visited the several settlements which was under my ministerial charge— the district over which I had to ride every month being upwards of 160 miles,) and where there are instances to the contrary, they may generally be atlributed to idleness and intemperance. The inquiry made by persons in the Mother Country, who are desirous to settle in New Brunswick, is, what employment will they find there? And when they are informed that the prii of the inhabitants is lumberi principal occupation bering in the dense

ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK.

forests, amidst the deep snows of winter, they have no desire to venture upon a pursuit with which they are altogether unacquainted. Thousands of emigrants, after they have landed in the Provinces, embark for the United States, where a greater variety of employment in mining, manufacturing, and other divisions of labour, afford them an opportunity of choosing that kind which is most congenial to their former habits. It is in vain to ask the miner, or manufacturer, to settle in a country where his brand i of business is not known, and to which the productions of his art are exported.

It is by offering encouragement to the different trades and occupations of the Mother Country — by unlocking the available natural treasures of the Provinces — the objects from which their labour will yield them profit and a competency — by directing them to the natural weall h contained in the earth, the soil, and the forest, that they will be disposed to emigrate, and to open and improve those resources that abound in almost every section of the country.

It has been too frequently supposed, that countries abounding in mines, are unfavourable to agriculture : but such an opinion is extremely erroneous ; for, although the soil in the immediate neighbourhood of metallic veins is often unproductive, those veins are not of so frequent occurrence, or so extensive, as to affect the fertility of any considerable tract.

In proof of this, it is only necessary to refer to Great Britain, whose mineral productions have been the great source of her wealth. It is equally certain, that New-Brunswick, almost equal in extent to England, is not only capable of being rendered a mining, but also an agricultural Province. At the present period, the great supply for exportation from the Province, is derived almost altogether from the forests, which are yearly declining before the axe of the lumber-man, and every other division of labour suffers from those pursuits, that scarcely render the shippers of timber a profit.

The pioneers who first visited the forests, remote from any dwelling, and discovered groves of timber that once overshadowed the soil, conferred a favour upon their successors, and secured for a time a revenue to the Province ; so will those who, by their foresight, may be the means of bringing into operation other and more permanent objects of enterprise. The most important of all the resources of the Province, are her mines and mineral productions.

New-Brunswick, of which I am about to treat, extends from its south-west point on the

ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK.

Island of Grand Manaan, at the entrance of the Bay of Fundy, in lat. 44-40, Ion. 67-10 to the 48th deg. of north latitude ; and is bounded southerly by that bay, and an isthmus of fifteen miles in width, which separates the Bay of Fundy from the Bay of Verte on the eastern coast, where is the termination of its southern line in lat. 46, long 64. Its eastern limit extends northwardly along the Northumberland Straits and Gulf of St Lawrence, till it strikes the Island of Shippegan, at the south entrance of the Bay of Chaleur, in lat. 48, long. 67 ; and it is bounded to the northward and westward by Lower Canada, and to the westward by the River St Croix ; and a line runs from its source to the high lands that extend to the head of Connecticut River, United States.

The steady increase, and growing prosperity of this noble colony, are but little known abroad, and the people of England have yet to learn that a Province, nearly as extensive as all England, watered by noble rivers, whose fertile alluvial banks team with riches, has within a very few years sprung from comparative insignificance, into one of the most valuable of the British North American possessions. The accessibility of its coasts, particularly on the Bay of Fundy, (the harbour of St. John being open all the year,) the magnitude and extent of the rivers — the fertility and richness of its virgin soil — the abundance of valuable timber, and the vast amount of mineral wealth, (the largest coal-field in the world being found within its limits) all combine together to render this a most thriving colony.

The people of New-Brunswick are most loyal to their Queen, and truly devoted to British laws and British supremacy. They see enough of the workings of democracy among their neighbours to avoid it as a pestilence, and they cling to the pillar of the British constitution, as the only sure support of true liberty, ihey clearly see and feel that, under the banner of Old England, the laws are equally administered— that every man is fully protected m his person and property, and that they really and truly enjoy more civil and religious freedom than is possessed by their neie-hhmirs wtm

ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK.

perspiration. The liability to disease is increased by the sudden vicissitudes of natural and artificial temperatures, especially during the winter months, when the change from cold air to heated rooms is sudden and excessive. It may, however, be considered as particularly healthy. The summers, although hot, are not characterized by that poisonous decomposition of animal and vegetable matters, which engender pestilential diseases in other countries ; and where the constitution has not been injured by exposure or excess, persons usually attain a good old age. The absence of intermittent fevers — the bilious remittent, and yellow fevers, gives this country a decided superiority over most others. The diseases of this Province may, with some exceptions, be classed under two heads, first, Those that arise from exposure and fatigue ; secondly , Those that arise from the bad habits of the people, independent of climate.

New-Brunswick, like every other country having intercourse with various parts of the globe, has its imported disorders, and is capable of generating, independently of importation, some of those epidemics to which early life is liable, and which occur fortunately but once, with some few exceptions, such as measles, u scarlet fever, hooping cough, and chicken pox. Every instance of small pox has hitherto been traced to foreign contagion. The diseases which proceed from the bad habits of the people, are such as follow errors in diet, and imprudence in clothing. Among the former, may be classed the intemperate use of spiritous liquors, and the immense consumption of tea, although habitual inebriety is by no means so common at the present time, is still spreading devastation throughout many parts of the Province, laying the foundation of a great many complaints, and rendering each more dangerous m its nature, and more difficult of management. Many of the chronic diseases which baffle the skill of the physician, originate in this vice. The use of tea three times a-day, as sti ong and as hot as the stomach can receive it, is not confined to the females, but the workmen of the country participate in it, until their powers of digestion are nearly prostrated, and a tram of evils supervene, that destroy their health and comfort. If there be any disease peculiar to this climate, it may be said to be dyspepsia or indigestion, from the use and abuse of tea and ardent spirits

Everywhere the purest water is abundinta luxury untnowa in man, parts of ^

ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK.

Canada ; and it will be perceived that numerous navigable streams intersect the country, offering every facility for the conveyance of produce to market. Its numerous and extensive rivers form, during the winter season, when the intensity of the frost has covered them with ice, level and excellent roads, which are marked off and designated by lines of bushes fixed in the ice by officers whose duty is prescribed by law. The mails from England and Nova Scotia, pass too and from Canada twice a-week, without suffering any interruption from the severity of the season. Throughout the Province, the utmost tranquillity prevails ; and during the four years I was in the Province, no wild beast ever disturbed my peace, or ill-disposed person crossed my path ; and when I have entered the houses of the inhabitants, I have met with an hospitable and most confiding frankness. The utmost toleration everywhere prevails with reference to religion. In fact, the people are not aware how well-off and happy they arc.

Many repeat the following lines with pleasure : —

New-Brunswick is our home,

And Britain’s sons are we !

Our tongue is known in every climq Our flag on every sea !

We will not boast that we alone The rights of freedom know ;

There ’s many a land that *s free beside,

But Britain made it so.

The thunder of her battle-ships Was hf>ard on many a shore;

But her healing words of peace are heard Above the cannon’s roar.

In this Province, there is an extensive Coal Field, situated between the primary rocks of the county of Charlotte and King’s County, and the Straits of Northumberland. On the Gulf of St Lawrence, only the south and south-east sides of this coal field have yet been explored ; the west, north, and north-east sides still remain to be examined, and its limits, therefore, in the latter directions, yet remain unknown. This coal field extends in a northerly direction to Bathurst, 150 miles, and to Miramichi, 120 miles, and from the latter place along the coast to Shediac, which may be estimated at seventy miles. Until the north-east side of this vast coal tract is explored, it would be impossible to give an accurate account of its area ; but it may for the present be considered equal to 5000 miles. 1 his tract may perhaps be characterized as being the largest coal field ever discovered on the globe. To distinguish it from the Westmorland district, and other coal fields